SOFT METAL! Engine Damage! Subaru Legacy Outback AWD 2.5 DOHC EJ25

[@JamesKinniburgh-e3e]

Now I understand why all the Subaru people I grew up with had three or four of them sitting around.

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Ray, you are using the wrong cutting fluid for aluminum. The Tap Magic you're using s designed for steel as it contains sulfur which is an extreme pressure lubricant. The right lube for aluminum is WD40.. There are other cutting fluids equally as good such as Boelube, Anchorlube, and Aluminum Tap Magic but WD40 is perfectly suitable for all aluminum drilling, cutting and tapping operations.

[@nkgagne]

9:35 a technique I was taught when tapping was to advance the tap a couple of turns, back it out a half-turn to clear the chips from the cutting edges, and repeat until fully tapped.

[@mikejacob3536]

Perfect form when tapping hard materials, like steel. This engine is apparently made of aged cheddar. Ray could have carved threads in it with his house key...

[@Heinrich_STG44]

Yeah. Exactly the technique you're supposed to use. 👍🏻

[@smittysbuilds]

m10 is large enough and he is tapping slow enough that it will move the chips naturally. on harder metal yes, but it is a good habit to do all around. but i don't think he fully tapped it, which is why it didn't want to seat fully. it was hitting the lower tapper end of the threaded area from the tap.

[@rumleyrum5839]

Not fully tapped all the way down is what I noticed as well.

[@charliefox7206]

@@mikejacob3536 or a... wait for it... a cheese grater. 🦊

[@zx2gamer]

That bracket for the tensioner is like $30 from the dealer.

[@craigfin3222]

My general rule of thumb is never use power tools when putting (or taking out) steel bolts into aluminum. If the tool is working too fast, it can pull the threads. If it is too powerful, it can rip them. You have to remember that the steel bolt will win every time when it comes to aluminum.

[@brakeme1]

That’s exactly why it happened 👍🏼

[@Sjessee58]

I worked in the Honda factory. Hand start the bolt and tighten with a impact.

[@dmacarthur5356]

Yeah I am overly cautious fastening and loosening anything on my block. Hand tools only for me.

[@ginog5037]

Ray too dumb and lazy to figure that out, especially with sparkplugs...

[@chrissmithz314]

I said this in the last video, but I have to stand up for Subaru here. There's a reason why service data tells you to remove the tensioner last, after the belt has been removed. If you remove the tensioner first like ray did, when it is under an extreme amount of tension, you will strip the bolt threads out when removing it. I like Ray so I don't want to sound like a hater, but all the subaru bashing comments in these videos bother me.

[@chrism5433]

I'm sure that if all previous work that was done properly you shouldn't have issues with bolts stripping out ,?cheers🍺

[@devinangola3458]

Yeah , stripped out threads in the block just from removing the bolts….🙄

[@chrissmithz314]

​@@devinangola3458 This is the kind of thing that might be hard to understand without experience, but yes. If you have something putting pressure on that steel bolt, like a timing belt tensioner, as you are trying to remove it from aluminum, you can easily strip the aluminum threads out. Anyone who has tried to remove a bolt that has side to side or up/down tension on it as you were trying to remove it should understand this, as the bolts don't thread out as easily in those situations.

[@devinangola3458]

@@chrissmithz314 boy that was very condescending, I’ve worked with aluminum blocks on cars and cycles, never have I had a block thread strip out from just taking out the bolts. Had them break off because of two different bimetallics causing corrosion in the threads. Not to sure what the bolts are made of but corrosion and constant rotation on a pulley can wear out the threads OR they were over torqued from a previous repair. Anywho, dialectic grease must be added to stop that corrosion or slow it down. Looks like a cheap aluminum block to me, and sketchy manufacturing. But please school me on my mistakes…

[@chrissmithz314]

@@devinangola3458 I wasn't trying to sound or act condescending at all, I apologize that I came off that way. There's really not much else for me to say. Removing a bolt that's holding in a timing belt tensioner, when that tensioner is still applying tension, is just different from normally removing a bolt. It's like there's a lot of weight hanging down from the bolt, or pulling up on the bolt, causing it to drag and pull the threads out as it comes out.

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

I think you should return back to the basics every now and then. Regular ratchets and wrenches and leave the power tools in the tool box. That is what put you in the mess to begin with. Just my two cents worth.

[@TheCorpsehatch]

Years ago when I was at work it was sunny in the morning. Some time after lunch it got cloudy and then a monsoon started. Boss goes, "Damn, it is really coming down." Twenty minutes later we see him run as fast as he could out the back door. He left the top down on his convertible.

[@joemuncie9187]

Everyone does that at least once

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

😁😁😁

[@thomasmleahy6218]

Went out to open a door to drain the cabin area.

[@hdfxrs9121]

That's why I don't bother putting the drain plugs in the floor of my Jeep.

[@norbertramirez7894]

that tensioning bracket is cheap and plentiful....just replace it. I work on EJ25's all the time. Have fun!! enjoy the vids!

[@craigcraigster4999]

Around $40-$50; Subie calls it "Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket - Complete."

[@user-rf9ob6cn1l]

You missed one feature of the time-sert. The insert is not treaded all the way to the bottom. This is done for a reason. When the installation tool is running the insert in, it stops at the unfinished treads of the insert providing enough friction to bottom out the insert into the counter sink that was cut. Once bottomed out, and the insert is seated, you keep turning the installation tool. This does two things. It finishes the threads at the bottom of the insert and expands the bottom of the insert to lock it in place. You needed an insert that was about 3/16 - 1/4 inch shorter and all would have went well on the first try (could have run the counter sink tool in a little further).

[@jessewynne8193]

That’s what the new Subaru have! Glue instead of rubber gaskets! They’ve had major issues with using too much and clogging the oil pump screens blowing engines. And drying out and causing leaks In turn pulling engine to dismantle engine and Reglue or smart use gaskets but major expense for owners

[@corndog6700]

Say hey Ray. I'm a machinist, and I've repaired more threads than i can remember. Run the drill as fast as youre comfortable hanging onto it, if it is going all apeshit, gounging out the hole, slow it down a bit. That aluminum block is dead soft, and probably pretty gummy too, speed on tye drill won't dull the drill. And heres the thing, dont buy drill bits off the trucks, from what ive seen, they sell junk. We bought a whole bunch of Matco TIN (titanium nitride coating) coated drills (actually, the team was sponsored by them and they gave them to us), we tried using them in CNC mills, and they were junk, lots of exploded drills. Get Precision Twist Drill (PTD). Guhring. Walter. Good quality deills. HSS/8% Cobalt. They last a lot longer than the extremely expensive truck sold drills. Get them from MSC or one of the big machine shop suppliers. And your thread repair/hack job insert, will work fine, i would have done the same. Keep it up RayRay 8:12

[@jeffreycler495]

Some advice from an old-timer. Before you reinstall steel bolts into aluminum alloy chase your treads.Put some light oil on a tap cleans out the corrosion. Also some anti -seize on the bolts. To avoid coolant leaking from water jacket thread sealer on bolts.

[@turner0224]

Good advice, I would also suggest possibly some grease on his tapping tool to capture shavings created by the tap. Has saved my butt several times. Too old now to be fiddling with screw ups self inflicted. Having done this crap for over 50 years I’m tired of fixing my own stuff ha ha .

[@jeffreycler495]

@@turner0224 I'm 71 still working on old motorcycles. Stripped threads a common occurrence.

[@turner0224]

@@jeffreycler495 Remember in the late sixties and early seventies all side covers had Philips head screws that stripped out all the time. That’s when I bought my first impact

[@johnhhinton5473]

@@turner0224 Yep, First choice...

[@hdfxrs9121]

@@turner0224 My early '70's Hondas had those. First thing I did was replace those bolts with hex heads or Allen cap screws.

[@craigcraigster4999]

"I'm not a machinist." Ray's self-deprecating video commentary for the win! 🏆

[@dangold9556]

You’d think after stripping two bolts on an aluminum block maybe a torque wrench would be a good idea!

[@vogel2280]

torque wrenches don't prevent studs from breaking when loosening nuts or when you predecessor has crosstrreaded bolts.

[@allupinit2107]

GOOD TIP: I saw SMA put grease on drill bit and tap to catch most of the aluminum debris.

[@John-k6l3d]

Should have used grease on the tap to catch the shavings and use thread sealant on the tensioner bolt or you will have a coolant leak

[@Rodogg7787]

I have had so many issues with the timing in my suburu, had it completely redone twice! Bc the first guy said he knew what he was doing, until time to actually do the work! So I then paid to have it done by a professional! Should have done that in the first place! Would have saved a good bit of $ & lots of headaches!

[@Travis141123]

I was thinking that may be a wet hole, but then again I have not watched the whole series.

[@Troy-q6b]

That engine is a nightmare, but maybe you should not use anymore power tools to put it back together.😮

[@craigcraigster4999]

And include torque wrenches as part of the repertoire.

[@neilbrown5657]

That part is not part of the block It's bolts to the block and part available from subarun

[@kg4gav]

Agree, I don't understand why he didnt just replace the bracket. They are less than $40 retail...much cheaper than the timesert kit!

[@quarrydesigns]

So what’s up with the Tahoe? 0:51

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

He's trying to make up for the snotta job( so nada job )

[@DavidMitchell-zw7br]

The installation tool expands the insert helping to lock it in. We use these all the time at work. I’m guessing you didn’t run the tap deep enough past the lead thread of it.

[@cecilkorik]

I think you're probably right, however it may have been the right decision in this case, as I'd rather have to grind off some of the helicoil and compromise it than risk punching through the back of that hole into the block that he has already tried and failed to replace, it seems unlikely to me that the helicoil is going to come loose on its own anyway given how that block seems to love permanently welding fasteners to itself. Give it a few days and you'll have to drill out the whole helicoil if you want to take it apart again.

[@diederikvandedijk]

I did not expect you to screw up that time-sert like that and accepting the fix as a result.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Nice rain storm 0:10 @Rainman Ray's Repairs

[@harbosonius]

Gawd I wish it would rain in Central Texas. It's been forever.

[@wacowildcat]

Next week hopefully.

[@Mmercier942]

If you want to try to not make any chips of metal in a open hole like this you can put grease on the drill bit and taps so the grease will catch the chips

[@agostinodibella9939]

I would only use hand tools to tighten bolts on that engine block! The aluminum seems weak.

[@michaelpressman7203]

Especially cast aluminum,it has low grain structure

[@garyalford9394]

Speedwrenchs help save time also !

[@tracynichols7206]

Just add a nut too insert tool to lock insert on shaft before you drive insert in.

[@Upracefan]

Use 2 nuts in place of the 2nd nutsert. Left hand drill bit to remove the broken nutsert. Never turn an engine backwards against a timing belt or chain adjuster.

[@keithneilson8432]

Hi Ray you may want to invest in a small pillar drill for the workshop , drilling and tapping is much better done in a vertical plane ,also much more accurate .

[@binyamj]

I drove through Florida last year. The rain was pretty heavy before getting into Miami, and one of my windshield wipers flew off! I see rain constantly, but not Florida rain. I replaced it and kept going…then the other one flew off haha.

[@Boga217]

You should always drill metal slow to medium, better for bits and your wrists. Definitely not great to full throttle gung ho them.

[@eldridge201]

I told him this I believe over a year ago and others have said the same thing when he drills things. He apparently wants to waste more time and money having to buy more drill bits after ruining them after the first 20 seconds but also spending extra time having to keep drilling when the hole could be drilled in a matter of seconds. In this case, he was just lucky that he was drilling aluminum. You should see what he does to drill bits in steel or harder metal. I just don't get it with some things with Ray. He's pretty smart with so many things related to vehicles but yet makes the most basic and simple mistakes. I didn't agree with the way he installed that thread insert and he should have redone it in my opinion. It may end up being okay but it didn't go the way it should have.

[@24bics]

For the life of me, I can't understand the logic behind running the idler bolt down with a non restricted torque tool into the aluminum block. Especially after having to do a thread repair once. I would've been content to run it down by hand, observing the published torque specs. Guess some folks can't learn from their mistakes.

[@MrHughk1]

@@eldridge201 He didnt run the taper of the tap far enough in hence the insert basically bottomed out. "Less haste and more speed" sign should be hung on Rays wall, he does so many little things that are just wrong, normally he gets away with it but that insert was a right botch job.

[@bryancaldwell1917]

Mild steel - high speed, high pressure Stainless steel - low speed, high pressure Aluminum - high speed, low pressure 21 years metal working experience.

[@Stoney3K]

Rule of thumb is: Small diameter hole goes fast, larger diameter goes slower. That way the velocity around the circumference of the drill is about the same -- if you're going too fast, either the drill will bite or you're going to temper or warp the metal due to friction, leading to a dull bit.

[@desotosky1372]

Armchair observation from 1,000 miles away, It appeared to me you needed to run the tap deeper to get past the taper on the end of the tap. Your threads were not complete at the bottom of the hole causing the insert to not seat/thread full depth. The insert tool is designed to drive the insert internally by incomplete threads at the bottom on the inside, not by the shoulder. The insert is not intended to thread fully onto the end of the installation tool. The insert is locked in place by the installation tool pushing thru and expanding the crimped section AFTER the insert bottoms out.

[@Heinrich_STG44]

Great tips.

[@ozemale6t928]

And Loctite is not necessary

[@whatsoutthere6822]

I don't know if I mentioned this to you but, the best cutting fluid for aluminum is alcohol.

[@helenault7452]

I've only hit about the halfway point in the video, and I have comments. First, Timeserts have three lands of thread at the tip of the insert that are not fully formed until the installation tool rotates through them to swedge them in place, locking the insert into the hole in the process. That's why it's so important to make sure the countersink for the flange is properly bored. Taking off the excess shoulder is a perfectly good solution when it doesn't quite fully go flush or below the deck. Second, I'm surprised that Subaru used a 10x1.25 thread in the aluminum casting. My experience has been that coarse threads hold better than fine threads in aluminum, and in fact that's borne out by the standard practice in the aviation industry. Both Lycoming and Continental routinely use studs with a coarse thread to go into the block or head, and a fine thread for the end that gets the nut. When I heard that the Timesert kit was 10x1.25, I was half afraid that the wrong kit had been ordered. But it was right, and my expectation is that this is going to be a kit that will get used again; I'd give that tensioner bolt no better than a 50/50 chance of torquing down without pulling the threads the third time it has to go in. (Do not even get me started about Daimler's angled head bolts on their aluminum-block V8s.) But with the Timesert in place, I'd be fully confident that this repair will outlast the vehicle.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I see your drill chuck has wobble to it might be why the bit sometimes wobbles probably need a Chuck rebuild kit for that Milwaukee Drill Ray 6:53 @Rainman Ray's Repairs

[@jsh6952]

Ray, when hand tapping you can pack the tap flutes with axle grease to trap the chips as well as lubricate the tap.

[@IFIXCASTLES]

Silicone grease too

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

Care for some dip&chips🍨

[@markscott9133]

Ray the tip of the tap is tapered so you have to send the tap at least half an inch deeper than the hole to get the full thread size to the bottom of the hole. The insert could not go as deep as you needed due to the taper at the tip of the tap. Next time Tap deeper and the insert will fully seat.

[@Impeeza]

you earn the right to joke about the screws, I can not imagine the cold going down you spine when the first bolt break.

[@deckgun31]

I love finding your videos in my YT feed. You (and the Wife Unit) are both so positive, and so enjoyable to watch. If I'm not learning something, I'm enjoying the content you folks create. It's such a breath of fresh air from all of the "other" content available to be viewed. Thank you both for all you do to make this existence a little more enjoyable, and always, a little more fun!😊

[@ccmoos]

Yes amazing positive attitude. I love wrenching on my vehicle's. But this one would have made me say swear words, that is for sure

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Don't forget that Troy is an important part of the shop!!

[@therealmccoy33]

Well Said!! 👍👍

[@Rekuzan]

Messing with the rookie, LMAFO!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Is he still looking for that bottle of blinker fluid, ooooor...

[@BMan100]

Next time you need to drill something like that, Try and find ourself some 3 Flute Drills there Ray if you can, it will help with centring, will be a bit more in terms of cost but will help int he long run for those odd ball things. *Is a Machinist*

[@petergondolier4088]

Hey Ray, some obvious problems with your time sert technique. On blind holes its critical to know the max drilling depth. Small tip for you when drilling out the shoulder depth. To make sure the depth is correct, after drilling the step, insert the timesert backwards (lip into the hole0, you can easily see if the depth is correct or not. You may have been able to remove the broken timesert by installing a bolt with Loctite 262 or 271, let dry, then unscrew the bolt, the sert will come with it.

[@Heinrich_STG44]

Good tips. I think it'll be alright but I didn't care much for him leaving a broken time cert in the block.

[@wb6anp]

Also if you look close, he didn't tap the hole deep enough, you can see where the threads ended.

[@buildmox]

this typ of insert expands on the end when you install it, if you back it out you rune the threads. you can get the inserts in different length.

[@superloopy24v]

@@wb6anp I couldn't see it on my small screen but it seems likely. I had assumed there wasn't enough thread depth too which caused the time sert to get held up at that point instead of at the collar which caused the tool to move further into it and expand the threads to lock it in place too early.

[@jbdragon3295]

I’m watching this and thinking what not to do! It’s an aluminum block and your running bolts into it at full speed. You’re tapping all wrong. You’re blowing aluminum bits into the engine. I’m wondering if he is going to end up with a small coolant leak at the tap. I missed the last screwup with power tools and his repair for that. I hope it wasn’t done like this one, but I assume it was.

[@LzyD2112]

Pretty soon we're gonna be treated to seeing this scooby drive out of the workshop. A lot of us waiting patiently for that day Ray :), Also don't read to much into some of the comments below, we all think you've done a great job with this engine. I would be happy if it was my car you where working on.

[@DraftySatyr]

I'm running a book on whether it then throws a con-rod through the side or has the timing belt fail. Has he checked the engine serial number? Does it end in 666?

[@carlcollingwood2063]

I called it! Back in the first video, when the bolt broke off, I left a comment saying 'You know you wanna fix it' - and I was right! NICE!!!

[@mineown1861]

Just let troy know , the next time you ask him if he checked your windows during a deluge , the proper response is , yes and they're all wide open .

[@allanmoore4794]

I always turn the crank over twice by hand to triple check the timing. I know its overkill but so is a trashed valve train. LOL

[@craigcraigster4999]

It is NOT overkill, it's SOP in my view, whether an interference engine or not.

[@patrickgoodwin3085]

Subaru- the engine that keeps on giving! At least now it is fixed and ready to live on. Love how meticulous you are to make sure everything is as it should be.

[@2pugman]

I hope that's a 5K repair !

[@freethought2296]

Put a jam nut on the installer, or the bolt with a jam nut, or a shoulder bolt. I think the insert cracked because that portion of the hole was bigger than the insert's threaded hole. For optimum thread engagement, a common rule of thumb is 1 1/2 times the diameter of the screw. If that is an 8mm bolt, you need 1/2" of thread engagement.

[@nissan300ztt]

Hope youre going to flush that cooling system out with some hose water? Those metal chunks can play absolutely hell with that new water pump.

[@sillywwabbit]

My thoughts exactly.

[@Userf451]

I like the fact that Troy doesn’t try to be the star like a lot of the other shop assistants I see on KZbin.

[@SeanBZA]

M10 nuts on the insert tool will work, and the reason the tool was so hard to get on is that the Timesert has a thicker base, so the tool will drive it out to lock the insert in position. you did not get the thread tap in deep enough to make the hole, easy to get wrong. Plus the bolt going in for the tensioner will provide the locking needed on the insert.

[@hot_wheelz]

Agreed, while the drilling wasn't pretty, it was tapping the threads in the hole that caused the problem. One time where he may have been best to chase the original tapped hole with the appropriate sized finishing tap, because he was worried about going too deep with the tap, he didn't tap deep enough to get to the full depth of cut on the tap which caused the insert to seize in the hole when it got to the last 2 or 3 threads that weren't fully formed. When tapping a hole like that I always use a bolt with the appropriate thread pitch to check that the threads are clean and fully formed to the full depth needed.

[@paulsolovyovsky1702]

you pay your mechanic not to fix things when things are easy, you pay for the insurance that when you have a SNAFU that you will be there to come up with a solution to the problem. Great work

[@boelensds]

Put air pressure behind to prevent chips from falling to inside before starting. Else chips running around in coolant system.🤔🔧

[@Justice-Seeker]

Undoubtedly someone else as mentioned this, but I'm pretty certain you didn't tap deep enough. As far as I know those taps start slightly smaller diameter intentionally, you have to tap past the tip to cut to the full diameter. Probably something around a quarter to half inch.

[@duncancremin1708]

Two full rotations in the normal direction of rotation. Never backwards, with a sprung tensioner. The crank bolt coming undone was trying to tell you something.

[@craigcraigster4999]

Yes sir, 720* of manual crank rotation is mandatory for timing confirmation, PERIOD.

[@nkakaputa9293]

Was thinking the same. Always turn in the direction of rotation.

[@james42519]

Funny south Main auto did timing belt and water pump on this recently but he was lucky and didnt have this trouble

[@bearpuf]

Watching you take the time and care placing the timing belt is similar to preparing for a rocket launch when each part of the preparation is checked and then rechecked for perfection. Thanks for a terrific video.

[@miwa4783]

@bearpuf Now we know why the rocket launches are always postponed🤣

[@thomasmleahy6218]

​​@@miwa4783 They shook the assembly and a loose fastener fell out. Now they have to completely disassemble the structure to examine where it should go and see that everything is actually tightened, assembled, torqued, down to the very first step, making sure every step is more carefully verified. It's always cheaper to do it right the first time.

[@miwa4783]

@@thomasmleahy6218 Oh no, that engine is a joke

[@SeanBZA]

Oh yes, please remember to get your shop a Recoil/ Helicoil set, with a pack of 50 M6x1mm by 1.5 length inserts, because you will be needing it for the Rubasoo timing belt covers, as those little M6 bolts get stripped out by the dealerships going in with the ugga dugga method, and tear the threads loose. Done a good number of Recoil inserts into either aluminium alloy valve covers, or on VW carburettors, where the centre bolt comes stripped, and there is only room to do the Recoil insert. Drill down deep, and put in 2 of the 6mm inserts, to get enough thread engagement to keep it from stripping out, and clean the hole, plus use green oil resistant threadlock on both insert and the stud.

[@michaelpressman7203]

Had to put inserts in my frame rail because of air box being removed & replaced by shops & me

[@jamessowards3822]

Ray is a great mechanic but his drill and tap techniques scare me. LOL. Slow and steady is always the best method instead of "full steam ahead".

[@maxxmich]

need to invest in a drill press so u can have steady and precise drilling apperatas

[@ronsloan7662]

Hey Ray, that engine was fighting you every step of the way. Happy to see you win the battle. Hopefully it goes back in easily and runs smoothly😊. Cheers!

[@philspear73]

I was afraid you didn't go far enough with the taper tool, hopefully you won't have to do anymore of these in the future, what a pain.

[@rogerfleury3591]

Hi! GOOD SUNDAY MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Don’t let the two new employees drown! Roger in Pierre South Dakota USA

[@victorbaird8220]

Shut up 😂

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

15:46 oh man that aucks the insert broke this block is just giving you issues on everything 😮 @Rainman Ray's Repairs

[@clbcl5]

Without a center, the drill does not know where to go so it just bounces on the 2 flutes. That is the reason for a center punch in metal for the bit to know where to go. Just like a wood blow out after the tip exits the hole.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I would use red loctite on the inserts 11:48 @Rainman Ray's Repairs

[@darkknight145]

Are you sure you want to pressure wash that engine? The alloy is so soft the pressure washer will probably blow a hole in the block.

[@wacowildcat]

😆

[@timewa851]

it's called Job Security.

[@hemmi06]

😂😂😂

[@billwilbur3608]

😂😂😂😹

[@thomasmleahy6218]

​@@timewa851 Is that anything like a wallet flush?

[@duncancremin1708]

Never had that happen before. My thumbs up rolled it from 2.9k to 3k. Obviously, I know it has to be someone that does it, but it’s just never been me, up to now. Once it goes past 999, I don’t expect my like to make a noticeable difference.

[@lorrinbarth1969]

Enjoyed watching the timing job. One time when doing one of these four cammers the wrong belt was supplied in the parts kit. It was under size. I of course figured I was doing something wrong and hi-jinks ensued. I too have chewed up bits of Subaru engine metal. Your comment about the engine being made of cheese is on the mark.

[@craigcraigster4999]

That's why OEM parts/kits are best. AISIN supplies a lot of the OE parts for these Japanese engines, their complete timing kits (inclusive of water pump, belt, tensioner, and pulleys) are #1 for quality in my book.

[@lorrinbarth1969]

@@craigcraigster4999 Subaru's engines have to be more expensive that the standard inline four. Subaru's seem to run more cats that you see on other engines. Cats are expensive. If you have a car like the WRX with three differentials that is still more expense. Then you have to compete with the other brands. I want to love Subaru but they have to cut too many quality corners to keep their prices competitive.

[@michaelstoliker971]

Those time-serts really do a good job giving a reliable thread for mounting hardware to these cheesy aluminum blocks. Perhaps Subaru should consider installing them at the factory.

[@michaellamb5781]

Easiest way with ej engines is to take the lower idler pulls off when installing the timing belt. Imo. Love the vids and Troy is coming along great from a great teacher

[@TheWickedFast1]

when tapping aluminum race blocks, we always use rubbing alcohol as tap lube, perfect threads every time.

[@christopherten-eyck4473]

I thought the whole engine was going to bow up when you pulled the pin out 😮😂😂❤

[@michaelpressman7203]

Pull pin,throw & run away 😂😂

[@JerryDRogers-df4sh]

FYI: If you use axle grease on the lands of your tap then it will catch all of the chips.

[@Rob-nj1yo]

Wow Ray don't even do two full revolutions in the direction of rotation and check your marks again before putting the timing covers back on. Very sloppy considering you should know better

[@craigcraigster4999]

Agree, but if he reads all comments then it's still not too late, he just needs to remove those 3 front "dust covers" and rotate the crank 720* to confirm aligned timing marks on cams, crank, and case (marks on the belt will no longer line up at that point AFAIK, which is irrelevant).

[@nahimibrahim107]

Ray, how did the customer not mind being without the Subaru for so long? Or is the car now yours?

[@sirtokesalot47]

i see you did not read comments on the last video. instead you bought a time sert kit for probly over 100 bucks and the bracket that you could have unbolted with 3 bolts and replaced was only 35 bucks. that hole definetly does not go into the cylender head as it is only a tensioner bracket that is bolted onto the block with 3 bolts.

[@NeilDunwoodie]

Hi Ray Love your videos here in Geelong Victoria Aussie! Watching you dealing with cheese alloy Subaru. The safest way out of the fractured thread insert problem was to collapse the insert by using a small Chisel to come at it from the side of the lip protruding out from the face of the block and tap it towards the centre of the hole. This will collapse and be able to be removed allowing you to then clean up the tapped thread and go again with another insert. My reason for removing the broken insert is that the threaded hole in this case is supporting a tensioner and is subjected to great load. Keep up the good work!

[@maxxmich]

also do t always use power tools to drive bolts in... do it by hand. so u do t rip threads out.... if u did everything by hand.. u would not have to spe d money and the job would of been done by now.. fast isnt always good.

[@nkgagne]

31:43 kind of surprised you didn’t spin the engine over by hand a couple of times (maybe you did and it got edited out?). Always a good idea after redoing timing because you will know if you ****ed up before it causes any damage.

[@craigcraigster4999]

I couldn't agree more. On my '06 LS430's 32-valve DOHC 3UZ-FE, once the belt is in place per all timing marks, the crank should be manually rotated twice (720*) to confirm the engine being in-time and the belt hasn't slipped and jumped a tooth. The marks on the belt itself will no longer line up, but all timing marks on the cams and crank should, thus confirming proper timing and avoiding a complete disaster for this interference engine. Not sure if the procedure is identical for the Subaru flat-4, but manually checking timing on any engine in a similar fashion prior to reinstallation of cam/front covers is always a wise idea, no matter how many similar or identical engines you may have worked on in the past.

[@beavcleav3086]

He never showed it on any other engine either. He probably doesn't check them ever

[@Miketime969]

Not the best or brightest at all😂

[@rickkcir9959]

If you keep all the stripped threads, you can melt them all down and make a baby Subaru!!!

[@Blaxjax21]

It broke at the taper that was all ready there. You could have used a nut to lock the depth.

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Thread repair fail...

[@WaveDudeTX]

That's not how timeserts work. The tool expands the insert to lock it in. I'd be pi$$ed if this repair was done on my engine

[@Blaxjax21]

@@WaveDudeTX That is not how to properly use it. But a good mechanic can addapt

[@TheMaster1]

Ray Little trick when drilling aluminum, WD-40 is a better lubricant than regular oil. The way to make cork gaskets good is use Indian Head. Yes I liked the video.

[@larrys5198]

I would've rather seen you blow out the hole with air by putting the air gun tip past the hole so it pushes the chips out, or vacuum out as much as you can and then blow them out. (Like you did with the tapping chips). Hope you flush the system to catch those metal chips.

[@paulferreira8342]

Was thinking the same thing. Those chips will jam the T-stat, heater valve (if equipped), or clog the heater core, radiator, etc.

[@chrissmithz314]

That bracket is 100% external to the engine and is replaceable, it attaches to the block with 3 bolts. No chips or shavings will enter the cooling or lubrication system from there.

[@paulbainbridge6425]

The shavings will be between the bracket and the block , there was no need to repair the thread he could have just replaced the bracket

[@eldridge201]

@@chrissmithz314 so was Ray apparently lying when he specifically stated that the hole goes directly into the cooling passage/jacket? You did hear that part in the video right? If you have information that proves otherwise, how do you know this? I'm not trying to argue but have you taken one of those engines apart before so you know that what you're claiming is true? I would think Ray could figure out if that hole goes directly into the water jacket or not.

[@chrissmithz314]

@@eldridge201 Lying? No. Mistaken? Yes. The only proof I can show you is to watch this video from briansmobile1 at the 6:30 mark when he removes that bracket. "How to Take off a Subaru Timing Belt" He also explains why you should never remove the tensioner first like ray did. edit: I guess one other possible way to see this is by looking up the bracket part number and seeing pictures of it, subaru pn 13156aa052

[@donsivak9546]

Ray. That bracket that your drilling into for the timing belt tensioner can be purchased at the Subaru dealer it's simply bolts onto the block and it's all pre-threaded probably already finished the job but I thought I would let you know

[@michaelknorr6825]

Ive done similar to many a honda oil pan. Both the stamped steel and cast aluminum pans have an aluminum insert where the drain plug sits. The more I see you do, the more i see a Dremel as a good investment.

[@fhuber7507]

I'd be unhappy with the insert as installed... for my own car. It'll probably work for 100,000 miles.

[@neilpinner5750]

Congratulations! You continued were most would have given up! Those engines are made out of soft alloy. I worked on an alloy engine and ended up just putting an insert in every hole. But a reward is they sound nice with a decent exhaust. Thank you ray, for another great video.

[@BillFromAZ]

That Subaru engine block really has it in for Ray.

[@davidmcnew4214]

Could use 2 nuts as a stopper on the installation tool.

[@jcadult101]

I love watching rain. I remember we took a training trip to NC and it was pouring during a break. All the Arizona guys were on the covered patio watching the rain. The NC guys were all WTF? Yeah, the only time we see a downpour like that is in the shower.

[@davidcraven277]

Since the bolt goes into a water jacket how about some sealer on the threads to guarantee no leaks

[@nooneeyeno]

agreed, a couple wraps with Teflon tape on the insert and bolt will do the trick, I got burned a few times with bolts into water jackets or oil galleys.

[@marksmallman4572]

I doubt that the bolt goes into the water jacket.

[@davidcraven277]

@@marksmallman4572 Mr Ray stated he could see the cylinder wall threw the bolt hole

[@Kellen6795]

"I don't like you" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Oh Troy... Getting massively trolled by Ray

[@Dave-ty2qp]

Putting it nicely Ray, that repair looks like hammered shit with aroma enhancers mixed in. I wouldn't trust that to get me to the candy store and back, much less cross country.

[@garyosborne8906]

In the opening segment when you pointed to the vehicle out in the parking lot awaiting this engine, it appeared as if a car was sitting out in the pouring rain with its back hatch wide open. I had to back the video up and enlarge the picture to see that I was wrong. Whew…..glad I was mistaken and that you remain perfect….except for tightening bolts into an aluminum block.

[@TXCherokee]

OMG. Wish it would rain in Texas. It’s been a long time and temperatures in triple digits

[@jackhouston357]

We got about an hour and a half in Houston yesterday 😊

[@wacowildcat]

Hold on man. Rain and 80’s coming next week. Phew! Its been a long hot one. (Waco)

[@TXCherokee]

@@jackhouston357 west side got Zero rain. It was all around far east side

[@TXCherokee]

@@wacowildcat well my front yard is brown. Few spots of green are weeds

[@jackhouston357]

Ok, Pasadena and Deer Park

[@felderup]

when i was young i used to love playing in hurricane rain, it was warm and i hadn't yet switched to onlysweats, we lived in a place where the houses were built to take bombs, also swimming in the 8' ocean swells, it was fun, cause usually that stuff would hit when the hurricane missed and it was still safe to go outdoors.

[@Ipad-g2f]

Should there be sealant of some sort on the tensioner bolt since it goes into a cooling passage?

[@dxxxm231]

It’s not a coolant passage. I think that’s just a bracket. Probably could of bought a new bracket instead of buying timesert.

[@adamness9557]

Next time use a jamb nut on tool to set insert. I had the same problem until I used a jamb nut like on tie rods.

[@turner0224]

Ray is the best, a channel like no other. I tune in to find out what he gets himself into today. You need channels like this after intense channels like Scanner, Pine Auto etc. you need levity.

[@frankmcdonough3351]

Folder binder clips work well to hold the timing belt on the pulleys

[@craigcraigster4999]

Stop giving away my secrets. 😉👍