BUILDING A GIANT RC AIRBUS A350 XWB, Part 1

[@RamyRC]

Trying and learning a new method this time, what do you guys think about it?

[@tw.4g188]

Something new to learn

[@fludge9677]

Can i get a sub?

[@iforce2d]

Looks like fun! What do these parts weigh? Will the wings be done in the same way?

[@munichfly7024]

Well it seems to work just fine. However I am not sooooo happy with the all the waste, you will create with those 3D-Prints. It is actually quite a lot and I think it is also pretty expensive, isn‘t it?

[@jamesaddison81]

Amazing build! What’s the reason for using fibreglass over carbon rather than just one of them?

[@AlphaOneProductions]

Mask up for the Resin bro. it has a cumulative effect, and once you get flu like symptoms due to constant exposure, it does not go away. I have seen it happen to a few scratch builders who just put on gloves, with no mask, they can no longer handle or be exposed to Resin. Keep building and enjoying what you do.

[@RodionHerrera]

I concur. My asthma worsened when we were doing this in our aero lab.

[@marioghioneto1275]

Well, there are some resins that don’t release gasses but I don’t know how much more expensive they are hahahah and I don’t think he’s using them but... maybe???

[@marioghioneto1275]

But yeah, I agree, protection in the workplace is SO important, many things seem to not harm, but they add up with the time and can cause serious trouble and harm

[@bobbyrayofthefamilysmith24]

Would you have flu syndrome for the test of your life after resin exposure? I wanted to start making things from resin but don't want to have permenant flu from it

[@AlphaOneProductions]

@@bobbyrayofthefamilysmith24 The only time you will get the flu like symptoms is when you use Resin. My friend tried every way to get rid of it, and was not successful. He made several scratch built aircraft, and it just caught up with him. I was heading down the same path, until I witnessed what happened to him.

[@volksyes9477]

By having molds you can now sell airframes🤘🤘🤘

[@xizx2597]

I was thinking about it too.

[@AlphaOneProductions]

With selling and producing mass volumes of airplanes, turns from a labor of love to something you regret doing, because people are cheap. If Ramy starts thinking about the man hours involved to make and distribute this product, that alone will discourage him or anyone else. If he charged for those hours, it would be out of the price range for the average modeler.

[@MABFR01]

@@AlphaOneProductions its not about being in the price range for the average. Man hours for such crafts are expensive. Do you think exotic car manufacturers care about that ? It's the same. If its premium, you have to pay for it.

[@AlphaOneProductions]

@@MABFR01 Obviously you missed my point, why do you think the foamy market is so good? Guys do not want to pay for something that can be gone in seconds. The market for exotic aircraft and exotic cars is totally different. My Lambo can be insured, and I will get paid maybe 70% of it's value if I wreck and it's my fault. You crash a composite Jet and total it, you are at 100% loss of your investment period. Bad to compare exotic cars to model jets. Stu Max did research and development, He spent time energy and resources developing and EDF fan for all to enjoy. His design was stolen, and massed produced by another company, you would think that modelers would care right? The only thing they cared about was the fan was sold cheaper, and they continue to purchase the knock-off fans to this date. Modelers are cheap and I would hate to see Ramy lose his love for building these amazing aircraft.

[@jjdavidian]

even compete with Airbus and Boeing I hope we'll soon have General aviation planes made by Ramy

[@gregoetker1389]

You can install TMC Quiet Stepper Drivers for about $50 so the printer would be super quiet. You could also install Noctua Quiet Fans for about $40 to reduce fan noise as well. Good job on your project.

[@tarui]

Quiet *

[@miked5444]

Was gonna say the same. The only downside is I check on it more cause I can't hear it printing and keep thinking something has gone wrong.

[@gregoetker1389]

@@miked5444 that's why I have a Wyze $25 camera, I can watch it from anywhere and in total darkness.

[@andyrbush]

When I started model planes in 1956 this would have been science fiction. Amazing.

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

In 1996, this would have been science fiction.

[@tonyhussey3610]

Shelby Seelbach I remember in College in 2000 and 3D printing was still very very rare..not quite science fiction just out of the reach of most people.

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

@@tonyhussey3610 If I had said in 2000 this would have been science fiction, that would be relevant. But I didn't.

[@tonyhussey3610]

Shelby Seelbach Chill Tigre...look at the context off all the comments..everyone says a date and says it was science fiction..I just remembered the first time I saw 3D printing and commented.. I must have replied to you directly I didn’t mean too. Just a word of advice..maybe get defensive on a more serious topic and I will be more careful how I post a comment..deal ?

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

@@tonyhussey3610 I can't make that deal. If you don't want to get bitched at, pay attention to what the hell you are doing. You created the situation, don't blame me. Good day.

[@zsbstephen]

Part 4 : Ramy RC is going to establish a RC model manufacture factory .

[@andreferro4618]

He should. I had the same thought...

[@jlions72]

I think he would need a few Employees..!

[@NawaSena_]

i wont buy

[@MABFR01]

@AlexDa Gamer I could work in this type of industries but I also could buy a smaller airliner

[@Camaronelrompereglas]

Yes

[@naunau8367]

Having done carbon stuff two things to improve your carbon: 1- a paint roller to make your epoxy go through the fiber. You can use a paintbrush first to apply the epoxy and fix the carbon in place 2- let the carbon dry under vacuum (better but not mandatory) one more thing, if you want to strengthen your parts you you'll juste have to do a two layer carbon the upper layer should have its fibers making an 90° angle we the lower layer. If you want to go overkill you can use Nomex (honeycomb type material) that you put in the middle of two layers. But I think it's very much overkill for your application domain ! hope it was usefull ! great work for your first carbon part by the way!

[@tonyhussey3610]

naunau 83 Definitely recommend using a vacuum, the quality goes up by a crazy amount especially if using peel ply and bleed cloth. Also weighing the correct amount of resign for the Carbon so you can keep the weight down. Also a surfboard squeegee is great to compress the fibres..it’s a wide rubber like spreader..bendy and forgiving..you can compress the fibres and remove the excess resign.

[@AlexCell33]

What about prepregs?

[@illla]

@@AlexCell33 prepregs require heat to be cured and those PLA 3D printed molds do not withstand more than 50 C

[@DoRC]

A set of fiberglass laminating rollers will help remove bubbles.

[@davidGrainger]

Or you could cut about half the length of the bristles on the brush you use to tap the laminate, so the bristles look more like a tooth brush. When you're tapping you're using the side of the full length bristles on your brush, which isn't as effective at removing air pockets. What you want to do is tap with the end of the shortened bristles. Also, it might be better to make an easier to fair male plug, fair it, then lay up your female mold on that. The composite mold you make will last longer than the 3D printed female mold.

[@illla]

Laminating rollers would improve the quality of the work but those still do not provide 100% bubble free result

[@RCHeliJet]

Great Work Ramy next Level Carbonfiber Fuselage Fantastic and the 2x 3D Printer work the hole time smile, have a nice Weekend.

[@RamyRC]

Thanks buddy, have a great weekend.

[@willyjimmy8881]

Those bubbles in the skin will not even be noticeable after you prep the surface and paint it. Great start so far. Looking forward to seeing it come together.

[@Project-Air]

Amazing work man! Can't wait to see more of this beautiful model come to life!

[@RamyRC]

Thanks buddy

[@rlabiche]

@@RamyRC when will part 2 be ready

[@dieselrotor]

I am so envious of guys like You who get to do things like this that so many of us would also love to. Thank You for showing and teaching us how to do it. Such neat work and skill. And what a payoff ! Enjoy.

[@Scenium]

Nice work Ramy!

[@RamyRC]

Thanks

[@ECarbonFiber]

Nice work. I would suggest looking into vacuum bagging with a peel ply and breather. It will remove the air bubbles but more importantly, excess resin will be removed. Making the part lighter and stronger!

[@luqmansugiyono5778]

Hand layup + vacuum bagging = 💯👍 Reduce bubbles, lightweight fuselage, etc. Try it!

[@loebair]

LOVE IT!! cant wait to see it bro !

[@RamyRC]

Thanks bro!

[@Redblood797]

For your first time making molds, you did great! If you want a better finish, then put the top outer layer with carbon and then do fiberglass reinforcement on the inside.

[@chilly1661]

I F***KING LOVE YOU! THESE PROJECTS ARE MY DREAMS COMING TRUE! Continue making these beauties.

[@kennethlung3371]

When I come back in my next life, I want to be your brother (not sister) so you can teach me how to build as you do!!!! Out of all the models builders I watch, you are undoubtedly the best I have seen. Keep up the good work and videos. An admirer.

[@finnleithomczyk5292]

0 Dislikes! well deserved!!!

[@cryobytedoesstuff2302]

(11 dislikes)

[@jjraga]

@@cryobytedoesstuff2302 (12)

[@kajakmannen]

Nice build m8. A good tip on how to get the parts out of the molds after curing is to use high pressure air and shoot it in between the mold and the layup. Works like a charm

[@socialus5689]

''Wait something is wrong here, The windows!'' Yes i uh... definitely totally noticed that.

[@willaiml]

Broke my heart to see the 787-9 crash. The nice thing about this new build, you’ll have molds to make parts or a whole new plane if needed.

[@georg.tripreprt]

Omg Ramy Rc Ive Been waiting for thatt and its finally here cant wait to see the finish , btw i subbed to yah and love your vids keep up good works !

[@SaahajMattey]

Man if you kade airbus XWB kits, I'd easily buy it. I'd even be willing to pay a grand if not more for a full just build kit, no electronics or servos, just the body kit and instructions. Cheers mate, excellent work

[@adamjacobs8606]

Ramy I've seen at least one other person mention it but you NEED to get that excess resin out of the part resin isnt flexible and makes your parts actually MORE brittle instead of less. Research peelply and get any plastic scraper and get that resin OUT

[@donanders2110]

They make a cloth that will absorb resin, even if he chooses not to vacuum the parts, it will help. You make a great point.

[@adamjacobs8606]

@@donanders2110 yup that cloth is known as peelply it's designed to allow resin to permeate through it but it wont stick to the carbon beneath then you just peel it away

[@valderramajeria]

your commitment, passion, and skill earned my subscription....

[@BbBoY161]

SO Cool! Love how you're bringing the methods they use (composite) in real life and bringing it to life in the RC world. Been a sub since the start :) keep it up!

[@SylvainsShipyard]

I'm not a model airplane builder I'm a scale model boat builder but still I like to look at your videos and discover new building techniques and ideas! Thanks for sharing!

[@daveplayz584]

I've been waiting for that a350

[@davidsondaini3999]

You're really doing very well with these great works..... Keep it up

[@airbusguy3638]

When is part 2 coming out? Can't wait🔥

[@engineergaming4295]

Part 2 is coming out 4 months ago

[@arthurmurigin]

Рами, мне очень нравится в тебе то, что тебя не останавливают неудачи и катастрофы твоих моделей! Я рад, что ты начал новый проект A-350( красивый самолет), и что ты стараешься использовать новые технологии в авиамоделировании - 3D печать, карбон. Я желаю удачи тебе и твоему проекту и с удовольствием буду смотреть процесс рождения новой, прекрасной "птички".)

[@xenomorphbiologist-xx1214]

I would like to see this one in the Cathay Pacific Livery

[@ThaiAirways-tj4tm]

Thai Airways!!!

[@ashcadiang]

PAL!

[@DrDrew-mw2gy]

Carbon fiber is super cool stuff! You brought back some fond memories of working with it for me!

[@ellamuhilenmaheswarijagade5832]

Can you share the 3d model template

[@playmangostingiu2217]

Despite sniffing all that glue you did an excellent job

[@poszukiwanianalegalu3505]

Maiden flight in this year? :):):)

[@abiralvi4372]

We want to see it by this year!!

[@reds05rc]

Friend I think with the Airbus you'll get lucky for sure ,we all watch the project progress in labor.

[@familjenandersson-jonsson5099]

Can you do the scandinavian airlines livery on it? It would be awsome!

[@DrBrian0450]

WOW Ramy! You put so much time and effort into these molds....I certainly hope you plan on selling some molded parts!?!?!?!?!?

[@marcoscamara5624]

Hola, me llamo Marco. No tengo palabras para describir lo que haces. SIMPLEMENTE ESPECTACULAR. ERES UN AUTENTICO CRACK. Gracias por esa maravilla de video. Te seguiré viendo. Un saludo desde España. Marco

[@Anne6621]

i cant believe the talents and skills you have to do this , you really are amazing !!

[@1ne8ight9ine2]

Tolles Video! So viel Aufwand und Geld steckt heutzutage nur noch selten in einem Video

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

This is gonna be an awesome project Ramy! Thanks for painstakingly sharing this process. You are such a good craftsman!!!

[@eronlushaj4172]

You are genius!When i come to Germany I want to visit you're workshop and airplanes!🇽🇰✈🇩🇪

[@stevenplaskett7728]

Vacuum moulding is very easy to do. Get a bag for clothing and apply a shop vacuum to it and you have a easy vacuum moulding set up

[@TailSpin46]

Awesome idea. I love it. I never thought of that.

[@karim111]

Well done! I say this as an A350 development lead engineer 👍

[@SPLfish88]

Ich habe den Airbus A350-900 XWB letztes Jahr auf der ILA aus nächster nähe und in der Luft gesehen. Wunderschön und sehr elegant. Es war beeindruckend wie leise dieses Flugzeug durch die Luft gleitet..

[@superferrariman]

you could have used a vaccum cleaner to create the vaccum Ramy. Those bubbles will contribute to faster delamination... AMazing job, though! Love your channel!

[@dakotasexton1942]

You are an awesome modeler i enjoy watching ur build videos they are relaxing while at work lol

[@jeremysargent5037]

I hope you are now using narrow rollers to do each layer as you can squeeze those bubbles out. Glad to see you are using a mask and vacuuming up that dust.

[@sebastianionut670]

Nice job! For the next composite parts, i'd suggest using a vaccum bag (or something close to it). Removing the air from the vaccum bag and the pressure applied on the mould would help you get rid of those defects. :) (You can use the vacuum cleaner to vacuum the part, just find a matching adapter.)

[@sawer]

Honestly I dont get why you would build a plane like this, like the commercial planes. I always thought they were boring. But watching you make one certainly makes me appriciate them a lot more:)

[@johanfehr5948]

You have no idea how excited I am for this build

[@RoboTekno]

Wow, this is great. Keep us posted. Make sure to not put carbon fiber around your RC receiver antennas. Use fiberglass, kevlar, or stick the antenna outside of the plane.

[@GrantOakes]

I've literally laid up dozens of tons of fiberglass and can tell you the best way to hand lay and avoid air bubbles is to lay the resin down first and then put the cloth into the mold and work the resin up rather than putting the cloth in and trying to work the resin down into the cloth. Try that on your next part. Great job overall though and I wish you continued success with your R/C projects.

[@miomao523]

Keep going on!!!!! Dont give up ramy!!!!!! You did a fantastic great job!!!👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@yashsoni4144]

Your work is excellent

[@giov.L.4125]

You are the number 1 in the rc World!!

[@ckbne]

Ramy you are truly a master builder. It is such a pleasure to watch your work sir. Seasons greetings.

[@darrellhuneycutt4712]

In my opinion this build is definitely going to be next level. So far it’s turning out to be super awesome 👏. I can’t wait to see the finished product . Keep it up Ramy good job 👍

[@kavindulakshitha2296]

Awesome bro I very like your vedo 👍👍 good job 😊😊

[@duschiavon]

Great job. Your technics are natural. You know exactly what to do it and how. Every different build impresses me a lot. I already know that will be an amazing plane and so beautiful. Keep up the great job. Cheers brother

[@Sunrazor]

Geez you're good Ramy. Fantastic work. I wish you would build me a small DLG with that technique. Exellent work man. Keep it up.

[@rockystone8486]

Government agencies and large companies have trouble with those bubbles. That's why the curing is sometimes in done in a vacuum chamber (some of them being very large tanks). Definitely watch out for dust since carbon fiber is "potentially" carcinogenic. Thanks, Ramy.

[@halfsith1]

Damn this is incredible!!! With or without Vacuum bags to eliminate the air pockets. Still an incredible project! Bravo!!

[@anthonycapanas2932]

Ramy, like any aircraft manufacturer, as years went by, they have gone to composites and advanced manufacturing technology. You, my friend are like them. You are so awesome in what you do and your passion of airliners, patience, and willing to learn new things. Keep up the good work. Even test flying, it is bare aircraft without livery paint scheme, like Boeing, Airbus, etc... do. You specialize Boeing, Airbus manufacturing scale radio control airliners😄👍.

[@michaelwindle5023]

I'm always amazed by the workmanship and quality of your models, yet have to wonder... the materials and hardware you use are expensive, as are the 3D printers and the material for them. The amount of time needed to build something of such magnificence is also far beyond anything I can afford. Are you blessed with "financial security" (as I am not), or just very careful with your investments?!? 😌

[@r.cfrance3115]

Wouah!! I'm French and I want to build my RC plane but THIS is your best production!!! Congratulation is very amazing i wait the second part impatiently.

[@modelllichtsysteme]

Ramy, great job!!! :)

[@twolaneblacktop5903]

Ramy, you should model slots in those moulds to align them easily with pegs or something and avoid that much sanding. You are welcome

[@Roadkill601]

You inspire me to build. I am working on EXP1 my 1st scratch built RC Plane Foam built with Foam core fuselage and foam board wing. All because you great videos. Thanks. !

[@creativecomposites6193]

Good job Ramy!, a small bristle roller for consolidation of your glass/carbon laminate after wet out will help with the bubbles,also a small roller to apply the resin might conform to your mould better and squeeze the air out as you wet out the fibres. Vac might have distorted your moulds. You should be able to inject the air pockets with a syringe with resin in it,just a thought,nice work look forward to the next episode!

[@wazza7575]

You are a master craftsman and a gentleman

[@jasbirkaur2770]

Great Work! 0 Dislike! Amazing

[@SternLX]

Molds!! Nice. Now you can make replacement parts if needed.

[@monty9463]

Just one other thing about lay up. You can use fibreglass tape to make overlaps look wonderfully neat. Remember the amount of resin needed to saturate a square metre of a so called weight of cloth is OPTIMAL. Not good for a DIYer. Just not enough resin to play with. You need a little more and like I said flow it before gelling but most importantly SOAK UP EXCESS with plenty of paper towel This gives a fantastic evenly saturated satin look to the cloth too. Best of luck Absolutely love wjat you do. Every single thing 😍😍😍😍😍

[@kwaaaa]

Instead of sanding, consider XTC-3D which coats and covers up any gaps, holes, and leaves a gloss finish. Also consider registration points so the parts snap fit for best alignment. Great job, looking forward to this series.

[@Azan2233-q2s]

Love your airplanes and you. Big fan

[@clemens7603]

I would love to see a Boeing 747 because it is so unique!

[@DeadlyDiddly]

Looks like an awesome new build process! The nosewheel doors are 😍👌🏼 Can't wait for the next part.

[@carlosdavid717]

For don't allowing the bubbles in the plane's body, try creating a homemade vacuum chamber with bags and a vacuum cleaner. PD: Hi from Colombia !

[@paktoysreview8377]

sharp mind friend

[@thercproject9309]

this is the coolest build ive ever seen, unbelievable ramy

[@MegaSteamfreak]

Super cool project. I'm watching it for a second time. Maybe you could change the electronics for your printers, something like a Duet3D controller. My CR-10 is super quiet now!

[@jimboisvert5781]

Well done sir! Just a quick suggestion though. An easy way to remove items from a large mould like yours is to lift one corner of the laminate, then give a squirt of compressed air between the laminate and mould. It’ll pop right out. Keep up the good work!

[@johnbyrne6413]

I found you when looking for information on building airliners , this was about a year ago , i am very much in enjoy your content and the information i am obtaining , good luck ,thank you Ramy

[@robertdewar1752]

3D printing Mould tools fantastic! Last year I made a large cylinder mould for a carbon project (large telescope), and never considered this. It was a gruelling task. I will have to try this if I make another.

[@dcampb555]

The master builder in action - looking good so far!

[@gcm747]

She’s gonna be big boys!

[@Acmy23]

Man, you are a boss, beautiful RC models!!!

[@khasmir666]

Very nice new construction method, I like. Once you have the molds, this means you can make many of these... Can I buy one? 😉 As others have said, I think rollers will help to avoid some air bubbles, and maybe you should buy an autoclave 😎

[@operaman12000]

Bravo! You are one talented builder.

[@njY2K]

Awesome work, Ramy! What a way to step up from your conventional body making!

[@jjdavidian]

Would you make a video showing your entire drawing process ? Thanks Rami What you do is just Great jjD

[@monty9463]

Hi ramy rc Love the printed moulds Anyway Couple reasons you're getting bubbles. Vertical areas tend to drain resin. So laminations can drift apart But it also looks like you're using minimum amount of resin. Yes if you have 110g a m2 ya supposed to mix 110 g of resin. But it's for perfect saturation. No vac can make things worse. But you do not need vac moulding I suggest mix say 10 to 20 percent more resin. Saturate it more. Stipple resin into weave. But importantly you MUST ROLL out the cloth. Lots of differemt rollers available. Choose something very curved. More so than the plane's cross section This will squeeze resin through cloth layers. You'll also find if you mix and lay on too much resin (as you should) it'll pool a bit at bottom of mould. This is drainage from sides. That's ok. Soak it with paper towel. In fact remove excess full wet resin everywhere with paper towel. Lots of it. If resin still wet go over top areas again. And repeat roll and soak. You have to keep mothering it til it gels One other thing. I make motorbike parts from bolt together moulds. Very complex one piece parts Mouldings have no joins. Just a continuous laminate. HOWEVER, if I used the method you use, that is laying it all up at once, I'd get drainage regardless from vertical and especially upside down areas and there's no way I could control it without vacuum bagging. But my parts can't be vacuumed. So if I did your fuselage half I'd put a thin layer of resin all over first. Thin enough not to sag. Let it tack up then I'd lay only HALF the mould in one layer of cloth. But you need more care applying the cloth on tacky gelled resin. Saturate it let it gel a little so no more possible drainage. Then do the other half. Be careful of needles sticking up on overlap edge. It can be easy sanded down. Yes. Sanded before putting on next side. If need be when cured. That'll be say in the first hour or so. Then when you lay and wet out the second half soak up excess resin again. Then move to other side and start again with next layer. Oh yeah. Overlap centre joins a couple inches. Yes thickness will be double but a strong spine Maybe use 3 sections middle and outers for second layer of you're concerned about centre thickness Again mix a little too much resin really wet it out and SOAK UP EXCESS before it gels This method guarantees top results and even thorough saturation and no drainage. Be careful cutting gelled edges since they can easily delamimate Don't worry if you lay up one layer this morning come back this afternoon when it's set and sand out any needle fibres on the join. You'll have an easy 24 hours for the next layer to make a chemical bond and not just a mechanical one I promise it works. Slower yes but you won't be upset with bubbles One other thing. No need to have actual mould mirror smooth. As long as contours are perfect thsts all ya need. Wax and pva fills most fine sanding scratches. Regardless, rarely will a moulding not be sanded. Any mould scratches will be in reverse therefore proud of your part and sanded level easily. People worry too much about mould mirror smoothness. You do not use gel coat. Heavy for models. You can make your own very thin gel coat by mixing resin with talc. Either super thin or super thick depending on how much talc you add. It saves a lot of high build primer later hiding the weave. Experiment with thickness You might also find using polyester resin instead of epoxy is far easier and saturates the cloth much more easily. Wear a chemical mask though. I prefer it to epoxy. Makes far better sandable gel coat too.

[@MR.EYE99874]

Your arts are best in the world I love😁😁😁😁😁😁 this

[@iriquiosgunship]

You are very talented, thanks for sharing.

[@thelight888]

You Sir, are one great artist.