Random stuff, Episode 09: Ultimate breadboard hex displays

[@lelandclayton5462]

That's pretty cool. Should try out drag soldering. Works great and easy to fix if you mess up.

[@davehohacks]

I actually did try drag soldering, but for whatever reason, it just created tons of bridges that were hard to remove. I'm wondering if using footprints with longer pads (as I mentioned in the video) might make drag soldering work better.

[@lelandclayton5462]

You could be applying too much solder. The trick is to use a flat tip or gullwing tip, RA flux works best but you want to clean it off as soon as you're done and use 60/40 solder. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYbclqeQarenhtU I use that method and it works great for even the tightest pin pitch.

[@davehohacks]

@@lelandclayton5462 Useful tips! I'll give it another try next time around.

[@andrsam3682]

You could try different soldering tip for a "drag" technique. For example, so called "mini wave", or a "knife" one. I aways use these tips for soldering SMT components - no problems at all. Of course, it needs a little bit of practice.

[@andrsam3682]

And lots of flux :) good one

[@davehohacks]

@@andrsam3682 I really should try drag soldering. Over time I've become more confident in being able to remove excess solder when there is a bridge, so I probably could make drag soldering work.

[@burzvingion]

It looks like (at least on the 16b version) there's a slight shadow/ghost image of each digit on the next one to the right (wrapping from the last to the first). I'm guessing you're changing the digit multiplexing lines while the segment data for the previous digit is still active. If you set all the segments to off before changing the digit lines you should be able to avoid that.

[@davehohacks]

I'm sure you're right. That would be an easy firmware fix. I'll take a look at it, thanks for the suggestion!