RC Gears Slipping?? What COGGING looks like - & SOLVED

[@eezeepc]

Hello there 👋. Cogging is when the ESC does not know where the North and South poles of the rotor are in the brushless motor (because the motor is sensorless) therefore it energises the coils in a fast random order. So depending on what position the rotor is in when you stop, cogging may or may not take place. The size of the pinion should not affect this. But I'd like to know why and how it does 👍

[@eezeepc]

Ok I've researched it (can you tell I'm bored 😂) and the extra load on the motor with a larger pinion actually slows down the process so yes, it makes cogging worse 👍😎

[@EastTactics]

Believe it or not, the size of the pinion does matter, Mostly because you’re asking too much of The stock motor/ESC’s relationship. They’re just not capable (or programmed) to handle the gearing. As such cogging occurs. I can attest, because immediately after dropping back down to 16 tooth pinion gear it went away.

[@EastTactics]

Lol, no worries 🤣

[@eezeepc]

Haha sorry bro I wasn't trying to prove you wrong, just wanted to understand the workings behind it 👍😎

[@michaeljohnson254]

Your right....100%

[@SHOKona-wp4vr]

I run mostly Traxxas vehicles except for 2 Infraction V2's. My Maxx is doing this and just saying what a good video on the issue. Subscribed and keep up the good work.

[@SaviorUnkind]

Check the bearings and slop on that motor. If motor runs too hot or bearings are worn it will lose torque causing a cogging issue. Smaller pinion requires less torque to accelerate which is why the issue got better.

[@NayburhoodSnipa]

While your not wrong about the gearing and torque I believe his gearing was too high for the sensorless system in this truck.

[@SaviorUnkind]

@@NayburhoodSnipa I've run an 18t forever. Motor gets real hot and kills bearings pretty fast and it starts to cog. I replaced bearings twice in a year.

[@ronbrannen887]

No point in making something that can run a bigger pinion gear and a level 9 punch setting if it can't handle it

[@gaviscon4304]

Max 6 combo, 19 t pinion and 50 rear 500.000 mid and 100,000 front diff oil that's what was running but u do end upside down alot so I dropped the pinion down to 16t and middle diff oil to 250,000 as it was almost undrivable, great vids keep up the good work

[@EastTactics]

Gav Iscon, thx! That’s some sage advice! 16t is more then fast enough. Down the road if I burn a motor, or Fry my ESC, i’ll definitely pick up the upgraded combo. Maybe experiment with 17t or 18t. But I definitely agree that there comes a point when overkill is overkill.

[@maxcurry9667]

I'm having the opposite issue with the cogging on my cen reeper. I put the hobbywing 1650kv and max6 combo in it with a 15t pinion. (Comes with 13t stock). I'm running an ear plugged center diff because wheelies are fun. It only coggs on very light throttle. It I give it the beans, it takes off (or flips straight on it's lid, thanks earplugs). I can't seem to figure out the cogging at low throttle. It's violent cogging too. The rig is heavier than stock but I figured that motor esc combo would have more than enough power to handle it.

[@EastTactics]

This is just a shot in the dark, but maybe it really is the exact opposite issue. Because you picked up a motor with a much lower KV ratio you might actually be running a pinion that has too little teeth, Agian..I could be wrong. But maybe it wouldn’t hurt to try to throw in a pinion gear that has 18t and see what happens. Again I could be completely wrong. But I’m super curious to know.

[@maxcurry9667]

@@EastTactics I may give that a try. I was going to shed some weight by switching the aluminum shock towers back to the plastic ones. Then take out the earplugs and put 20mil weight into the center to lighten the fluid up. I'll probably try adjusting punch first before I go messing around with the stuff I just mentioned. It's way too fast with the 15t as it is. I'd be scared to gear it up any more than it is. It will probably hit at least 60+ mph right now. That's fun in a Kraton, scary in an unstable truck like the reeper. I'll let you know what fixes it.

[@philosophy4242]

@@maxcurry9667 did u figure it out?

[@maxcurry9667]

@@philosophy4242 nope. Still does it to this day. I soldered on a new connector and geared up, down, then back up again. Same issue. The only thing I haven't done is replace the esc to see if that fixes it. It probably would but it hasn't hurt anything and I beat the tar out of that truck often.

[@paulrakis]

Hope you know this by now but BLX 2050KV motor, 15 tooth pinion is max it can handle. of course you can go up to 17T or what ever. 15T pinion you just need fans on motor which you already have and cool down period every 5mins or less depending on what your doing. ESC will also over heat with 15T pinon gear if your not letting her kool down.

[@EastTactics]

Yeah… That’s why I’ve got over powered fans keeping this bad boy cool. Although I do plan to 100% get a better motor and ESC in the near future. Currently I’m running 16 T. But with all the weight I am experiencing cogging

[@paulrakis]

@@EastTactics yup you sure will give it time you will burn out ESC. That what happened to me already on my 2nd ESC arrma has no prob sending them to me I get one more before I gotta do paper work lol.

[@paulrakis]

I recommend you go down to a 14T when it gets hot outside. Fans aren't gonna do much brother in 90 degrees. That's probably best gear to run your rig hard without any heating issues. Dam you must live the speed with a 17T. I'm still getting used to mine with 15T. Also when. I drop mine down soon my battery last longer. Which I'm sure you already know that.

[@PeighDayRC]

I have a similar experience with my X-Maxx using Spektrum RX/TX. When I turn down the AVC on the DX3 controller the cogging issues go away. Using 25/46 gearing with a HW5687

[@johnjuan6698]

My rc car also cogs when going super slow crawling speeds when running over obstacle. I plan to gear it down fron 17t stock pinion to a 15t. Maybe it'll get rid of cogging. Thanks for the idea. (My rc car is wltoys 12428 with 2900kv motor 45amps esc 2s 45c lipo)

[@EastTactics]

That could very well do the trick

[@danimudura3213]

Why does my esc keep going into protection?

[@NepDouble07]

I was running the belted 3.8 inch trenchers with a 14 tooth pinion, and it starting cogging as well. They're very heavy tires. At first I thought it was my diffs, but it sounds similar to the cogging you were having. I just bought brand new EXB diffs for my outcast too, made sure they were assembled properly and everything and they feel super smooth and sound great. So I would've been quite disappointed if it was the diffs.

[@EastTactics]

Yeah, I picked up the trencher’s to and my cogging is back. Those tires are just so heavy. In order to really get rid of the cogging issue especially with all the weight we had to our vehicles between aluminum upgrades and tires is to just simply get a better ESC and motor combo with a higher torque/lower kV set up

[@NepDouble07]

@@EastTactics Exactly, I plan on going with a castle monster x esc alongside the 1520 1650kv motor and running it sensored... Cogging will never be a problem even if I gear up, just need to watch temps.

[@EastTactics]

So I’m learning pretty early on from the great people leaving comments. Something that I kind of figured would be the case. In fact it correlates a lot with the solution of this video of me dropping my pinion to a more drivetrain friendly set up. And that is... The ability to do standing backflips may not worth the trouble. 😆 LOL I would agree, along with the veterans here that running a motor and ESC combo that your RC car can happily stay both cool and within tolerance limits of the drivetrain is a much much better solution for both fun and longevity. I mean let’s be honest being able to do a standing backflip while it’s cool, it’s only fun for a few trigger bursts anyway, And likely proves to be a bitch over excited in the air. That’s not to say that upgrading your motor and your ESC to a higher quality lower KV/torque combo is a bad thing. The Arrma Drivetrains are most certainly capable of handling an upgraded. But if you’re able to do standing backflips your probably going to find that toning it back a bit is the solution that many veterans have come to realize.

[@jarrettmaltry6305]

Standing double black flips are much like traxxas self right. Good for the first couple times.. then you just start breaking shit. When I first got my e revo 2.0 a few months ago self right blew front and rear diffs took out the spur gear motor and ESC. It was all replaced but still 😅😂

[@EastTactics]

Good point

[@joseCalderon1976]

Standing backflips = destroying your diffs and drivetrain. Not worth it

[@EastTactics]

Honestly, you’re right! very well said for sure

[@joseCalderon1976]

@@EastTactics That's what happened to me. Heck I can get standing backflips with my insanely powered Outcast 8s, but I don't try to do it. I did it once by mistake.

[@tmaxrecer]

What pinion were you using did you went more teeth less teeth 🤔🤔🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

[@EastTactics]

More teeth. Which is the cause. Drop teeth and you’ll prevent cogging

[@wolfreon]

With stock esc & motor, I can guarantee you a standing backflip if you have these factors/things: 1. At least 15t pinion 2. At least 200k diff center then you can do 50/60 front & 20/30 rear 3. Punch setting at 7-9 (lucky if you don't cog always - mine cogs sometimes) 4. Backflip tires (cause these things are grippy) 5. And of course, a surface which is not slippery 6. Not sure about low discharge rate batteries, but just to let you know I use 5A 70c/150c burst and 6A 70c/140c burst

[@EastTactics]

The current set up on the vehicle during the making of this video was 20 K rear 200 K Center, 60 K front. 20t pinion. Granted I only had the stock tires, but you would think with a 20t pinion she could pull off one. Course I’ve added a lot of weight to my vehicle with front and rear hot racing diff houses, And other aluminum parts. I might even have the M2C chassis in this video. Not sure. Either way I couldn’t do a standing black flip, and I also was on punch setting nine. Maybe the reason why you’re able to was because you’ve got some high burst rate batteries. Mine were like 25C. Now here’s what I’ve learned since then, do you want to do standing backflips for days! Toss silicon earplugs in the center differential. I’ve also learned that doing standing backflips is a quick way to snap pins, and strip teeth. Lol But they certainly are a blast to do every once in a while. I really appreciate you watching my video thanks for commenting.

[@dazzadirt8710]

I have a kraton 4s..i have new spur 57t with a 15t pin .checked rear dif all metal cogs look mint as..ESC is max8 180a with the stock motor spectrum 2400kv ...very coggy. But if i put 20t pin in..the truck cogs and motor goes into thermo after like two passes💀..whats my problem bro?

[@EastTactics]

What ESC did it come with? Isn’t a max 8 180 amp ESC designed to be fitted with much larger, heavy duty rigs, supporting a motor with a much much lower KV? My first thought

[@dazzadirt8710]

@@EastTactics stock esc was the spectrum 120a..but it caught fire on me so I upgraded to the 180a

[@EastTactics]

You would think that an overkill ESC would do just fine…🤔 What’s the stock ratio supposed to be when it comes to the center differential and the pinion? Do you cog W the 15t? Cogging will get worse higher you go with the pinion. Did you watch this vid? kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWQg52qhtiAqbcsi=3qLdWyAn2r884kVw

[@dazzadirt8710]

@@EastTactics ..yeah I thought that too...um stock ratio??u mean what was the stock pin?..na bro..I'll watch now🤙

[@leepeezy]

To do a standing backflip I put a 7700kV castle sw4 in my 2wd stampede on 3s and all metal gears and drivelines. I'm thinking you might need a similar upgrade

[@EastTactics]

Thanks. Here’s my journey to the ol standing backflip with my stock V4 Kraton. Soon I’ll have a 1730kv motor and 8s spektrum ESC installed.. this will be epic. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWQg52qhtiAqbc

[@memyself6445]

on my 4x4 stampede i have a spectre 3900 kv, 17 tooth pinion, 56 tooth spur and 5200 2s, standing backflips are cake... keeping it on the ground in general, not so much lol.. thought the aluminum roll cage would help comp, nope

[@SaviorUnkind]

Max 6 combo, 4985 (1650kv) and a 22t pinion with powerhobby 100c lipos and 2.5M center diff fluid, got me standing backflips for days. But it runs too hot and will destroy your drivetrain. I run an 18t now, can't do it anymore.

[@EastTactics]

ThoMz RC, Thanks! Really appreciate you sharing this info.

[@Owm_mtb]

Hi I was wondering what amount of teeth I should have on my pinion gear bc I have replaced my old 1/10 scale brushed motor to a brushles motor and it is running a 17t now and it is gogging

[@EastTactics]

Depending on the severity of the cogging, Would help you determine whether you should drop one or two teeth. If you really have to gun it hard off the line for the cogging to happen. Then 16T might do the trick. If it’s cogging pretty easily then I would drop to 15 or 14t. Also you might first check to see what punch setting your ESC is on. Sometimes simply dropping your punch setting can do the trick.

[@Owm_mtb]

@@EastTactics Thank you so much

[@elektron2kim666]

Most are under engineered for the expert pilots/drivers, so they mess with it which is a wrong concept as you should move "up" and buy the bigger ones and not "save money" any more. In essence they are still flying a Cessna and know about Boeing... It's impossible to mount a fat engine on a Cessna, but they do it for some reasons which I don't know about.

[@freddieparrydrums]

My Slash 4x4 VXL sounds odd when it decelerates. Still don’t understand what the problem is. Been like it from factory

[@EastTactics]

By odd, what exactly are you hearing? And you only hear it when decelerating? Does it happen at any range of deceleration? Or only when quickly transitioning from high Speed to the hard break?

[@freddieparrydrums]

@@EastTactics Thanks for the reply. It happens any time I am deceleration/braking, but always under 10mph I would say. It’s done it since out the box, not sure if it’s normal. I notice the motor gets very hot. The noise is hard to explain, none of my other RC’s do this. It sounds like very faint cogging but the cogging gets slower the slower you go. Thanks :)

[@EastTactics]

What’s throwing me is that you’re only hearing it when slowing down. Question for you can you duplicate the noise or make the noise happened while your rig is posted up in your workstation. Meaning if you’ve got a stand that you put your vehicle on, and then if you get the tires going pretty fast and then use the break, will you be able to hear it? If you have the ability to maybe film a 30 second clip of this you could upload it as a private video to KZbin and share the link with me. Some of the more confusing noises that can come about in an RC. Are chipped teeth on your spiral input gears be at front or rear. If your mesh is too tight you might consider adjusting that. Sometimes the bearings do go out in the motors themselves. And can make a noise. If you’re experiencing overheating issues quite a bit. You might’ve run into an issue with one of your bearings in your motor. Lastly one of your differentials, potentially any of the three, could be having some issues inside their internals. Next time you’ve got any of your differentials out while you’re holding in your hand you should be able to hold both ends of the outdrives and do a back-and-forth twist motion and not feel any snagging

[@freddieparrydrums]

@@EastTactics Thanks for the reply that’s really in depth. I recently put new oil in front diff. But from when it made the noise was right out of the box. I will share a clip with you maybe not today as I’m quite busy but I will do it. Thank you for your help I really appreciate it!

[@EastTactics]

Sounds good

[@cottonfiber6480]

I'm watching vids to diagnose my issue I thought it was my spur gear but after watching your vid I'm now pretty sure it is the same.. witch is good becouse I have two extra pinon gears but no spur gears... I've been waiting for an exuse to put the speed pinion it came with in..

[@EastTactics]

Yeah I hope that resolves your issue. I noticed for me though that I had to drop the pinion from 18t down to 16t to get rid of the cogging.

[@rcsick3262]

I think you can flip it if you tune your diffs? Like 1 million oil in center and 500,000 in rear might do it.

[@EastTactics]

Hmmm... You make an interesting point. However I have noticed that when I go to thick in the rear end, the explosion of torque to tension on the ground, lends To broken diff pins and planetary gears. 😂 I’m starting to think that Standing backflips Is a characteristic of a vehicle that’s tuned for an increase in breakages. What’s your experience?

[@rcsick3262]

Oh! Great! I just put 500.000 in the rear of my e revo! After watching a Kevin Talbot video 🤣🤔

[@rcsick3262]

I find that I break mine all the time lol and upgrade and break again, I love to wrench on them so I love the hobby. I think they make them to break cause the parts are money makers for them.i once built a T-MAXX with all aluminum parts, I could run it into a tree at 40 mph and nothing broke, just bent all out of wack😳😂😂😂the stuff I do for fun.but ya I have 7 trucks and I always have one apart on the bench! Fun stuff✌🏼❤️💪🏼

[@EastTactics]

RC SICK, Yeah it’s something to keep in mind, however I do think the biggest reason why I was breaking so many pins and planetary gears was because I was running at 20t pinion gear, Which was just plain overkill. I’ve since dropped to the 16, which is plenty fast and I also updated the pin to a 2.25 mm stainless steel rod that I picked up at McMaster.com. I have a video on it. The pins are amazing check Out my vid on it, if you haven’t already. Yes indeed!!! Bash on broski 😎😝💪💪

[@rcsick3262]

Thank you for that,I need some pins👍🏼👊🏻✌🏼❤️💪🏼

[@chrisspearline767]

What about cogging after replacing esc?

[@EastTactics]

What rig do you have? What ESC do you have? What motor do you have, what’s its kv? What pinion are you running, how many teeth? Do you run stock tires? Or larger tires?

[@chrisspearline767]

@@EastTactics So I got a 124007 and fried the esc right out the box by attaching the battery wrong in the car. I bought an exact 45a esc it runs but cogs like crazy. I just got a GoolRC programming card cause I saw changing start up to hard might help some. I don't know about the other things you've mentioned

[@chrisspearline767]

@@EastTactics stock tires though

[@Alphabet7]

To do a standing backflips, you have to Increase power however you accomplished that is your choice you can do it with a bigger motor or you can do it with a bigger battery like a 8s

[@EastTactics]

I have something up my sleeve that’s going to potentially accomplish it with stock components. Stay tuned😎😎

[@Alphabet7]

@@EastTactics oh other things. You could also get a higher 3 rating maybe not the correct surface aswell. It almost did it. Asphalt would be better then concrete. Do a burnout before attempting one ? Warm the tires. But looking forward

[@EastTactics]

Thx... that’s a great tip

[@jsneds347]

I dont get it, is cogging a motor issue? Or is it a gear issue? I recently changed my diff bulkheads and I didn’t touch any part of the gears besides taking it out and putting back in and now this shit is happening, I re checked everything and made sure it was properly seated and tight. These f’n Arrmas is driving me crazy, it’s like everything I try to upgrade just makes it worst.

[@EastTactics]

It’s more of a torque issue, as too much is being asked of your ESC/motor combination. Something has changed now after your modifications to the drivetrain system. Adding weight to your vehicle, Such as larger tires or heavier components can do this, even changing differential oil, or the mesh tightness of your gears might suddenly change something where now the torque needed to kickstart the mass of your rig is More than what you’re ESC/motor combination can handle. Even introducing a new battery into your system that has a higher C rating, can introduce cogging because now more draw is being asked from your ESC/motor relationship. I’ve seen cogging suddenly appear when somebody goes in and increases their punch setting too high, and now the power surge asked from your motor and ESC to jump the rig off of The line becomes problematic. Increasing the size of your motor pinion does the same thing, changes the dynamic of what your motor and ESC are asked to do. So… If you don’t want to change your gearing or any of the Drivetrain or weight changes you’ve made to your vehicle, upgrading your ESC to one that can handle more power/torque would likely remedy your issue. Or Dropping your punch setting down a few notches might be enough, Or drop your motor pinion down a few teeth. But if you had a pin it on one thing as being the weak link in your system, I would blame it on a low end ESC. When people upgrade their ESC to say a Max6, Or even an 8S spectrum firma 160, they now have an ESC that is capable of handling not only a 2500 KV motor but you can go as low as 1650 KV (which demands a ton of torque) and still be fine. I hope that answers your question. Watch this video for more insight. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWQg52qhtiAqbc

[@jsneds347]

@@EastTactics hey brotha thanks for the info man I really appreciate it, I’ll give it a shot. It’s kinda hard for me with no one on island who I found in this hobby and no local hobby shop to go to for questions so I rely on these vids from the experts like you man. Thanks again.

[@windwrightmage]

E-Revo 2.0 6S will do standing backflips all day long right out of the box it's a rocket

[@EastTactics]

Nice! Gota love Highend RC!

[@windwrightmage]

@@EastTactics Arrma makes awesome RC cars and trucks the senton for example is just as good or better than the traxxas slash at half the price. In my opinion anyway.

[@jmoya780]

Thanks man

[@jayputters615]

Its most likely your mesh not the gears put it back on and add a little more space between the pinion and spur than the paper trick just add a tiny bit more space between them guaranteed it wont cog i had same issue with my revo 2.0 and it went away with a lil bit more space between the gears most the time we get cogging is from not enough mesh between metal on metal with plastic you wont get cogging

[@EastTactics]

Thanks for the suggestion, Ya I checked the mesh quite a bit, used the paper tactic too. The Mesh in this case wasn't the issue. it was the 20T pinion on a stock 2050kv motor. it wasnt happy. dropped it... and problem solved.

[@BigfootYusuf]

Does lowering the punch level also fix the problem? Sometimes my hobao mt plus 2 does that too on punch level 6 with 500k center diff oil, didn’t have this issue with factory settings.

[@EastTactics]

Lowering the punch level sometimes is enough to get rid of the cogging issue. I would certainly attempt that first and see if it does. If that doesn’t work then consider dropping down a size or two with your pinion.

[@BigfootYusuf]

@@EastTactics Thanks for the reply! Yes it certainly does work! No more cogging on my hobao on punch level 4. Note that everything is stock except the center diff oil at 500k cst. Stock pinion is on 16T

[@imserious2187]

My senton 3s does that, it started after i went to a 26t pinion, I went back down to the optional 20t that came with it and it still does it 🤷🏾‍♂️

[@EastTactics]

One thing to consider is that it may not be cogging. You mentioned you were running on the 20T pinion gear For sometime without cogging? Correct? The increase to the 26 to May of just stripped a few of your gears from the rigorous takeoffs. You might have some warn teeth, Likely on the rear outdrive gear, or the crown gear On the rear differential. Or both. It doesn’t take much wear to create a cogging like noise, especially on takeoff. Get in there and do a really close inspection on both of those gears, sometimes it’s difficult to see the wear on that outdrive gear because it’s deep in there and covered in grease etc. so it’s best usually to remove it. Let me know if that’s the case, be sure when you’re putting it back together you might consider doing some shimming to marry those two gears a little bit closer together. To prevent it from happening again. Of course assuming that’s the issue. 😎👊

[@freestylesganggangganggang6880]

Change stock esc settings & your gear swap was good..I have a arrma talion 6s but it's overall the same concept

[@EastTactics]

Ya, I dropped my Punch setting to 6, that help some. In combination with dropping back to a 16T pinion.

[@Evan-rq2ee]

okay so, my car sounds like the gears are slipping, idk what it is, but it only happens when i punch it, i already have a 15T pinion on a arrma senton 3s brushless, its so frustrating

[@EastTactics]

It’s either cogging or you got a bad gear. If it’s cogging, Watch this vid kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWQg52qhtiAqbc To rule out a bad gear, this vid might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5DSpp-OpM-ZnbM My guess is… drop to a 13t or 14t pinion, see If it goes away.

[@WaynePryce]

So you just used a smaller pinion and it stopped?

[@EastTactics]

Yes, reducing the size of your opinion will have a direct impact on copying issues. Check out this video for more details on the subject. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWQg52qhtiAqbc

[@gamercat7004]

My rc stops itself like accelerate and let off the throttle and clank stop fully. I feel like the spur or the pinion is clicking it to stop what could this be?

[@EastTactics]

Could be a number of things, this video might lend some light on the topic, watch it and let me know if we can rule out what's its talking about. Then well move on from there.

[@gamercat7004]

@@EastTactics I believe I resolved the issue I did shim my differential on the rear and I believe it was a little tight that caused the differential lock up to occur.

[@gamercat7004]

@@EastTactics I have steel spur gear and pinion gear in my latrax prerunner and could that happen as well?

[@ronbrannen887]

I think the problem is the name arrma, I've had nothing but problems with my krapton 6s and by the looks at the comments everyone that has a arrma is having problems. Personally I think Traxxas is the way to go I don't see many people complaining about Traxxas

[@EastTactics]

Traxxas makes a solid vehicle, so I can’t argue with you there. However what I can say that I love about Arma. Is they make a solid initial platform that you can build from. Sure it would be nice if they sold it with all of the upgrades out of the box, but I guess at some point you’ve got a balance the cost of manufacturing Among other things. The support for the Arma platform from third-party creators is huge! And I really enjoyed the bash it/break it/upgraded mentality over the years. At this point my vehicle is a tank… Course she’s got a lot of love. If you have any questions specifically about your biggest ailments I’d be happy to help you with your Kraton.

[@tomsteere8904]

Yeah well get ready to piss your money away on axles. Traxxas axles are junk, even the heavy duty ones. Maybe you'd have better luck with the metal upgraded one's but $140 for axles is a lot. I've been running Traxxas for a while and with the stock veleneon motor and esc I would snap stub shafts within 5 minutes everytime I run it. But my Arrma granite 4x4 will take a severe beating and I've never broken one axle. Arrma chassis and suspension are far more superior then traxxas in strength. They only thing that sucks is that you don't give you any alternate options on the suspension or steering. But if you just run it like it came they will almost always drive back to the car for the next round of bashing.

[@Jamesmoore-mj5ke]

For me and my upgraded senton 3s to 6s cogging issues on punch 1 up the punch to 5 or more fixed that.

[@reycotto5905]

I put the 16 on my arrma notorius to try do more backflips on punch 8 and its doint that i should put back the 14 or lower the punch setting to factory? Pleaseee help meeeeeeee

[@EastTactics]

Well interestingly enough your issue is going to be one of two things, either your vehicle is cogging because of the increase in the pinion gear, and the motor and the ESC are having that miscommunication, Or, as a result of increasing the pinion gear and throwing more torque at your drive train, you might have actually stripped your rear input gear or your front input gear. Both cogging and that sound similar and happen off the line. The way to diagnose if it’s a stripped gear is to give it a good punch while moving at 5 mph and see if the clicking happens. It shouldn’t happen if it’s cogging, since you’re already moving. If it does happen still then there’s a chance that you’ve stripped one of your input gears or the teeth on your ring years (differential), or both. If you find that it’s leaning toward the warn teeth on a gear. Watch this video and see if the tip I explain helps you weed out where it’s coming from. If you find that it is clogging then you might jump to a 15 tooth pinion gear and maybe drop your punch setting to 7 to see if it goes away, and if it doesn’t write back to 14 and see if it goes away. Here’s that video though. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5DSpp-OpM-ZnbM Let me know what you find out.

[@reycotto5905]

@@EastTactics thanks the motor its brand new i will do that today

[@EXTREMERC416]

I have this issue on my exb at 14t but i think its when the motor is too hot

[@EastTactics]

Sometimes people confuse worn out gears (such as the input gear or even the spur gears on your diffs (mostly rear)) with cogging. However since you’re only noticing it happening when your motor gets hot then it For sure could have something to do with either your motor or your ESC temperature. What kind of temperatures are you getting up to?

[@NepDouble07]

I'm running a 14 tooth pinion as well, with some larger tires, I noticed it when I went from 4s to 6s. The motor was getting pretty hot and it would stutter off the line pretty bad. Thought a diff was bad, but considering I couldn't even hold my hand on the motor for more than a second, it was probably getting too hot.

[@paulrakis]

No you cant impossible brother you gotta get the Notorious 6S or yes New better ESC and motor of course.

[@imserious2187]

My senton is cogging, I've tried different gearing, reset the esc, different punch levels and it's still there. Help 😔

[@EastTactics]

One thing that gets confused, because they sound very similar, is Cogging, and stripped input, or ring gears on your differential. My guess, since you've done a bunch of experimenting with different gearing and punch settings is that you might have a stripped input gear either in the front, or the back differential. Potential even in the center diff between the mesh of the crown gear and the motor pinion. Alot of times it's difficult to detect a worn input gear because they are smaller and burried deep in the bottom of the Diff covered with grease, but even if one tooth is worn down the teeth skipping under high torque sound just like cogging. Have you eliminated this possibility yet?

[@thomasb1205]

Did you ever solve this issue? I seem to be getting cogging on my new Senton running a 3S battery and stock gearing. I've noted what OP mentioned about the input gear however I only get this issue from standstill for a split second. It's also like the car had almost no power to overcome initially spinning the wheels like if you intentionally hold it in place and open the throttle it barely has any power. One it's moving even a few MPH it's extremely quick.

[@EastTactics]

@Thomas B Yeah that does sound like cogging. I resolved my issue, by dropping from a 20 tooth pinion gear back down to a 16 tooth pinion gear, and changing my pipe sitting down from 9 to 6. As you mentioned the many others have confused cogging with warn teeth somewhere in their drivetrain. Typically the input years since they’re the most elusive from detection. I know you mentioned that it’s only a start up. However that is when the most amount of torque is being immediately sent to the gears. You might consider going five or 10 mph and then punching it, if you experience the cogging feel, That would be an additional level of evidence toward a stripped gear somewhere. I guess it is possible for you to simply be experiencing the actual cogging issue on stock gears.

[@thomasb1205]

@@EastTactics Above a crawling pace everything sounds fine and response is razor sharp so I'm inclined to believe the gearing is OK. The manufacture got back to be saying it sounds like a motor issue. If they won't help me I will probably try dropping down to a lower tooth pinion. Thanks for your help!

[@EastTactics]

Anytime, glad you were able to traverse through my message. I noticed my voice detection to text wasn’t exactly on point LOL

[@jonathansteenstrup422]

When I lift up my rc car and spin 1 of the wheels the other wheel spins the opposite way what do i do?

[@EastTactics]

I’m pretty sure that’s normal... prop the car on a stand grab both left and right and together turn both... this should lock the diff, and spin the motor pinion. And make an expected clicking noise.

[@jonathansteenstrup422]

@@EastTactics I can drive it but it’s like sounding weird like a cogging sound i don’t know why, I think it might just be broken and 1 of my tires are loose lol. I’m considering saving up for like a traxxas or something a bit better around 100-200 dollars instead of around 50-60

[@EastTactics]

What Rc are you running?

[@EastTactics]

@@jonathansteenstrup422 Cogging often times can be confused for a stripped gear somewhere in your drive train. Watch this vid and see if it helps to sniff it out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5DSpp-OpM-ZnbM

[@Leesadventure]

Perfectly normal for that to happen.

[@Lawncare_masters]

When mine was stock a could do standing backflips

[@EastTactics]

karson, interesting, that wasn’t the case for me.

[@Lawncare_masters]

Were you running 6s

[@EastTactics]

karsons exploring channel, Yeah… But I believe probably The biggest contributor to my not being able to do it might have something to do with the fact that my batteries are only first rated at 35C. My guess is if I had 100 C rating it would help. Not to mention I don’t like running my RC car at nine punch setting it’s just to Finicky. I might be able to do it if I adjust those two things. Down the road I plan on getting a new motor and esc anyway. Ultimately I’m fine to wait till then. My next batteries will also be better quality

[@bradleydenhartog7297]

I only had cogging once (knock on wood)

[@keekay_cg32c7.r2]

If you put a too big pinion it definitely will give the esc hell. You can't speed run and and bash at the same time. Use a 13t pinion.

[@EastTactics]

My friend I wish you would’ve made that comment a year ago when I first got into this hobby lol. Yes I took the long route to learn this lesson. I never actually was interested in speed running however I did get a little bit over zealous with my pinion, back when I was a rookie. A more recent video I’ve created on this topic kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWWQg52qhtiAqbc

[@tootlepuff]

That doesn't look like cogging to me

[@EastTactics]

It is… well was. 😜

[@MayhamRC]

It should easily standing….

[@themooser6203]

Thats not cogging that's bad gears

[@themooser6203]

After watching it more closely I think it is cogging just sounds like a gear at first

[@orion000]

You uncogger you

[@johnjuan6698]

My rc car also cogs when going super slow crawling speeds when running over obstacle. I plan to gear it down fron 17t stock pinion to a 15t. Maybe it'll get rid of cogging. Thanks for the idea. (My rc car is wltoys 12428 with 2900kv motor 45amps esc 2s 45c lipo)