Rare Surfing Footage in California 1947 San Onofre , Malibu, Ventura Overhead, Rincon
Пікірлер: 106
@benjamintmaltby745310 жыл бұрын
Love how the guys shared the waves in those days.
@adambamf93652 жыл бұрын
i still dont think you could just rock up and share you still had to earn it
@andersenjed Жыл бұрын
The cut back messed that all up
@geoffreymilke5176 Жыл бұрын
Easy to share waves when you surf in straight lines
@jasonjackson56963 жыл бұрын
The first wave I surfed was Rincon in 1960 when I was 6 years old. I used my brother’s board with the giant square fin and it floated as if there was nothing on the board. I caught my first wave by angling into it & trimmed on this waist high wave for a very long time. I was hooked. There was only 2 people out in the water that afternoon. My mom collected clams on the beach & made clam chowder that night - what an awesome memory. (I learned to swim at 3 years old & I was a fish & was body surfing Newport Beach shore pound at 5 years old - no kidding. I think my parents were nuts😂)
@paddington30282 жыл бұрын
Your parents were on point🤙
@radwhack14 жыл бұрын
I saw this footage at a lunchtime presentation at Barnum Hall at Santa Monica High School in 1962. Can’t remember who presented it (to have been in high school in ‘62, I can’t remember too much of anything anymore!) but he seemed to know all about the filming of the Malibu scenes. What stuck in my mind from the narration at the time was being told the pier showing was “the old pier” and not the one we know now. What made that seriously impressive was that the old pier was south of where it pier is now so for those waves to be clearing it means they were bigger that anything I’ve seen break there in the last 50 years or so!
@lalessing8 жыл бұрын
thanks so much for sharing. Wow takes me back to my youth. My brother and cousin started surfing in the forties and for all I know are in this footage. They used to put me on the nose of their big redwoods and we would streak across those walls. As we trimmed along I would glance under the nose and it would be out of the water so it was like flying..seemed so fast to that little kid. Also the water was so clean and lots of life in the water. Guys would go catch octopus and fish with no worries about eating them because of pollution. Plus sea urchins all over the rocks. Just so different..thanks again.
@surfskatevideos18 жыл бұрын
+lalessing Hi, I am the one who should say thx to you to a so beautiful and full of passion and good memories / nostalgia ! I feel the same about my youth, but, in a differente picture and period of time, I was born in 1972, in Sao Paulo and lived inside the Surfing environment / universe for about 15 years. And I am happy also because you got the real feeling, what I wanted the most, by publhishing all these rare videos, was actually exactly provoque these feelings like the ones you had. Good vibes ! Pedro Mendes, from Brasil
@surfskatevideos18 жыл бұрын
+surfskatevideos1 I mean, a so beautiful text ( I forgot to write the word `` text `` )
@clafong97 жыл бұрын
Fantastic. The shots of big Malibu at 1 minute in where it's breaking beyond the pear were awesome. And it was interesting that at least for those guys, having more than one on a wave was just fine. And the bit with the tandem team was great - she would have had quite a view from up there.
@eddiewouldknow3 жыл бұрын
Amazing in all aspects! No wetsuits, "probably" no fins, great surfing/control of those boards, and the movie quality is awesome considering aged and transferred 8mm or 16mm film??? Ohhh and yes, the waterhousing back in that era - a Doc Ball invention? This is great stuff.
@williamwalsh62823 жыл бұрын
They seem ok w three on a wave... amazing how much surfing has changed
@artlover46685 жыл бұрын
I have always said that if I could be transported back in time to a particular time and place, it would have been So Cal from the 30s to 50s. From I hear it was paradise, beautful weather, beaches to the mountains. Incredible era
@calfolk73814 жыл бұрын
I’m with you Art Lover
@davidanderson84695 ай бұрын
I was born in San Diego in 1950. I thought the whole world had good weather until we traveled. It was a truly wonderous world. 1/10th the population I reckon.
@davelarose82578 жыл бұрын
Fantastic footage! Thank you, Pedro, for sharing this history. I especially enjoyed seeing the tandem-- they made it look easy! And the bathing cap on the surfer girl...another age, one that paved it for us and which we should honor.
@yujishinohara1uponatime9 жыл бұрын
Pre junkfood era, slim guys on uncrowded pristine waves..Those were the days. Reminds me of the days before my youth. Thanks for posting.
@surfskatevideos19 жыл бұрын
Veranda Tales I didn't live in the 60's and in the 70's but I had also the luck to had lived in the 80's and many spots were uncrowded, before the `` boom `` era, when surfing started to be a fever here in Brasil, after the ASP circuit comes back to Brasil with the 1987 Sundek Classic. Then, magazines, tv articles, many stores, surf shops and in the 90's ... a huge fashion.
@jasonjackson56963 жыл бұрын
The first wave I surfed was Rincon in 1960 when I was 6 years old. I used my brother’s board with the giant square fin and it floated as if there was nothing on the board. I caught my first wave by angling into it & trimmed on this waist high wave for a very long time. I was hooked. My mom collected clams on the beach & made clam chowder that night - what an awesome memory.
@davidanderson84695 ай бұрын
They ate everything and burned it off unlike many today. Burger joints and diners were everywhere back then.
@wasabiginger6993 Жыл бұрын
That’s gotta be Pete Peterson doing tandum. Wow, great footage, thank you so much for sharing! Pete’s wife Alice got my mom surfing and at Malibu by late 50’s … sooo many stories I heard as a kid and ended up surfing early 60’s till we moved from Malibu to NS Oahu 1963.
@donaldbrough207 Жыл бұрын
I was thinking the same, Pete Peterson?
@r.g.36366 ай бұрын
when i surfed the long beautiful point break walls of steamer lane in santa cruz,,, i would always invite surfers to ride the same wave with me just to share and have fun together.... so,, it still happens in modern surfing as well.... mr. roy
@rhinohippo8 жыл бұрын
year I was born, I was an early 60s longboarder, I got to respect how these guys were surfing on those boards that where state of the art in their day. I can still remember a lot of the rides I had from Rincon to Stacks in Baja. Anybody remeber Stacks in Baja, south of San Miguel. This is great film, thanks
@prowelderbill6 жыл бұрын
rhino hippo been there done it. Nice though! Hard place to climb down to beach!
@r.g.36366 ай бұрын
thank you thank you thank you Pedro..... so beautiful
@720069mf11 жыл бұрын
I like the way they share the waves;three on a good wave, and their havin' fun!
@hackman55able8 жыл бұрын
Sooooooooooooooo awesome. Mahalo for the upload. Very inspirational. Too much for mere words.
@bwolf2d11 жыл бұрын
be very curious as to how Pedro Mendes came by this footage. Buzzy Trent on the outside of the wave at 4:24.
@SapphireAdizes3 жыл бұрын
same here
@Ranger8302 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Only time I’ve seen any of those breaks not crowded !!! Ahh the good Ol days huh? Love the old films man! 😎🤙 for the dream!!!
@clarkewi11 жыл бұрын
That is a huge south swell breaking at the end of the pier. Note how much further out first point sand was in those days when they let Malibu Creek flood at 3rd point. There was a wide beach between the water and the Ringe estate at first point that got narrower in the cove. Now its narrow all the way up to the Colony. Note in the opening shot of the lefts at first point. I used to surf on those lefts in the mid 1960's and they were never crowded - everybody wanted the rights.
@drewnolan96 Жыл бұрын
Thank you. Was looking for this comment. The beach at Malibu in that scene looks like sort of Ventura point but…not really. Thank you for explaining.
@drewnolan96 Жыл бұрын
It’s hard to tell with how much different it all looks now. It’s crazy what we’ve lost.
@mozdickson11 жыл бұрын
oh them days! "War is Over - lets go surfing!"
@lalessing8 жыл бұрын
thank you again. You certainly achieved your goal. I've never see such good footage of Malibu from that period. I know that Bud Brown showed some of the first surf movies in the early 50s and do remember going with my brother to a small community center to view one of his early films.. Maybe there were shots like this. I'm sending this on to my brother to enjoy and perhaps see if he can identify any of the surfers by style. So few at the time they all knew each other. He'll be 80 this august and will get real joy out of this. Also my cousin who is a bit older will really dig it. They may even be in some of the shots. How did you come across this fantastic footage?
@missinglinq8 жыл бұрын
Great footage though I do not see any footage of Ventura Overhead or Rincon.
@jasonjackson56963 жыл бұрын
The first minute was Rincon
@WhiteNacho8 жыл бұрын
That was some huge Malibu from the hill!!!
@calfolk73814 жыл бұрын
I remember watching the “Monster from New Zealand” from that vantage point. We meet again Whitenacho 👍
@WhiteNacho4 жыл бұрын
@@calfolk7381 I totally remember that swell because I was on a three day camping / surf trip at Jalama. T's was huge but perfect. Terry Fitz and Wayne Lynch were there just toying with it. They were on a promo tour in Santa Barbara for a new wetsuit line called Rip Curl. Surfer Mag coined the swell Monster from New Zealand. I rode my winter gun. What a fucking swell!
@calfolk73814 жыл бұрын
Whitenacho Thanks for sharing your story. Jalama must have been magical back then. I have vivid memories of Gerry Lopez connecting the points backside at Malibu. Buttons was there too 👍
@andrewschiff39736 жыл бұрын
awesome footage. thanks so much.
@panamared36817 жыл бұрын
When everyone is just trying to ride the wave and not see how many tricks they can pull off, then three guys on a wave is no big deal.
@markkendrick75475 жыл бұрын
Very cool footage.......
@zsierke11 жыл бұрын
wow, that is a really west swell. And it looks like that same boat is anchored there today....
@77Cfriend9 жыл бұрын
I remember those good lefts off first point, a gooy foot friend of mine got me surfing there in the 60s and no one else much cared about them because they were all going right.
@angus20047 жыл бұрын
Nearly 70 years ago and the surf in LA was already way too crowded. Cool to see, though.
@prowelderbill6 жыл бұрын
Angus Those were the locals,back then you wanted a few guys out otherwise you were out surfing alone. All up and down the coast. San Diego to Santa Barbara. No , that ain't crowds.
@ejectoraircoasters2223 жыл бұрын
@@prowelderbill I mean I don't see an issue with me surfing 5-7ft malibu all to myself but maybe that's just me
@artlover46683 жыл бұрын
Giggle, those could have been the same guys on each wave. Still, I assume that the Malibu crew at this time was small and intimate.
@slayerkhan7 жыл бұрын
FYI: Anyone from the South Bay should know that the RB library has a complete collection of classic surf videos, produced by the guy who made Endless Summer I (Dan Brown?), available for check out *on VHS * .
@nunyabizness69677 жыл бұрын
Sean Linn Animation Production Bruce Brown made Endless Summer and many other flicks.
@lonewolf77965 жыл бұрын
Bruce Brown
@rebecaarnal52032 жыл бұрын
I would like to contact you about the use of part of this video which we are interested in for a documentary project we are developing. Thank you, Kind Regards
@davidbubbsoar255511 жыл бұрын
the quality is OUTSDANDING!!
@Goomer8 жыл бұрын
Terrific footage
@calfolk73814 жыл бұрын
These guys could have had any wave they wanted to themselves but preferred to share it seems. Pristine Malibu 🇺🇸
@TCBeaches111 жыл бұрын
Is that Pete Petersen tandem surfing?
@michaelpriest9300 Жыл бұрын
where did my surf knots go from knee paddling? haha
@Sidetrackification3 жыл бұрын
Excellent!
@wiscgaloot8 жыл бұрын
I can't imagine there were more than a few dozen surfers in 1947, yet these waves seem crowded! How odd.
@prowelderbill6 жыл бұрын
Kelly Cox Malibu was a hip place to go and hang. It was the surf spot in LA.
@halheywood39106 жыл бұрын
HUGE malibu . Nice
@jockjay849710 жыл бұрын
Neutral stance NICE
@tomodog24 жыл бұрын
The tandem pair at about the 3 minute mark, are Preston "Pete" Peterson. Ii cannot be confimed by this film, but the female partner is said to be Norma Jean Baker. Norma Jean did surf before becoming famous as Marilyn. Pete is considered a complete waterman and was also a lifeguard in Santa Monica who built boards, dorys and lifesaving equipment. He invented the soft rescue tube still in use today.
@MyLifeBeLikeNow3 жыл бұрын
hmm wondering, with so many waves per set, why they all droppin in on da same wave ? contest ?
@cw75262 жыл бұрын
Camera
@lancejackson36184 ай бұрын
They liked to share waves. And all wanted to be filmed too. It wasn't crowded yet in 1947.
@SapphireAdizes3 жыл бұрын
At what minute is ventura overhead and rincon???
@nbcruizin11 жыл бұрын
WOW...! Before houses were on Rincon point..! lol
@tripledp4 жыл бұрын
Tom B. It’s all Malibu
@kc721865 ай бұрын
How cool is that 🍻
@marcphillips45933 жыл бұрын
Cool. Pre jerk era.
@vXvBALZDEEPvXv10 жыл бұрын
I think ALL this footage is Malibu. I didn't see any wave. Just the Bu
@daves.94798 жыл бұрын
+vXvBALZDEEPvXv Agree--100% Malibu
@breeze34410 жыл бұрын
Days of pure..
@moromoro21637 жыл бұрын
Yeah, wasn't that something. Look how the shape of Malibu has changed. Nice swell from the hill shot.
@artlover46683 жыл бұрын
The old timers say that the winter of 69 and the way Malibu creek unloaded it's sands from the heavy rains changed the break forever.
@ichorousmedia11 жыл бұрын
that is some big malibu, wonder if those guys shot the pier by accident, some of them look really locked into their rides haha
@taylorwoods988510 жыл бұрын
pre carl !
@harryknackers78922 жыл бұрын
Is that Big Wednesday? Where's Bear?!
@danielbrennan58723 жыл бұрын
wow
@montanamornings8526 Жыл бұрын
That was all Malibu. Where’s Ventura Overhead and Rincon ?
@johnlane9743 Жыл бұрын
OMG - - Pedro - this is heart - warming... Imagine - surfing for shear joy - no rules - no ownership. Hard to juxtapose this with too much sentiment - just a few years earlier, mankind kills nearly 60 million people in WWII. Planet Earth - both Heaven and Hell... its a very strange trip.
@billykohler91533 жыл бұрын
Wetsuit? We don’t need no stinking wetsuit !
@Swayzeo3 жыл бұрын
😮
@briseboy8 жыл бұрын
Pretty much all Boobilam, no Overhead, no Rincon, no San onofre, church, trestles...
@BananaHammyForYou5 жыл бұрын
Dude, I was so bummed. I really wanted to see a video of Stanley's.
@charliekosek67511 жыл бұрын
quite the logjam(for 47)
@surfhempster9 жыл бұрын
Rad ~~~>
@chrisp.frye-noodles876127 күн бұрын
Won't look like that again until 5 million years after WWIII.
@carolynennis1829 Жыл бұрын
Malibu Carl wuz there!
@clarkewi11 жыл бұрын
Malibu point was way better in 1947. Much of the point is washed away.
@rickroberts11982 жыл бұрын
Shoulder hoppers
@derrymcintyre71768 жыл бұрын
seems like droppin in was cool back then... every one goin striaght. w chicks on shoulders.. the good ol days!!!
@robertruesterholtz74848 жыл бұрын
+derry mcintyre It was a group thing back then, they were all for sharing and enjoying the waves. If you notice, they are not doing cutbacks, it would have been dangerous on those boards if even possible.
@wasabiginger6993 Жыл бұрын
Back when real men surfed wooden boards and wore real surf shorts (that showed off their great legs).
@Unfluencer Жыл бұрын
the age of pre-overpopulation. Musta been nice.
@davidtettleton27322 жыл бұрын
These guys probably burn in the 20s....hundred years old, now!
@geoffreymilke5176 Жыл бұрын
WTH with the sound? It was so annoying that I had to stop watching