Nespresso Aeroccino Milk Frother Diagnostic and Easy Repair Part 1

[@fukanzu]

Thanks, from South Africa! This repair worked for me. Our Aeroccino lasted 3 years, frothing at least 5 cups daily. The thermal fuse burned out after I frothed 5 cups successively without cleaning off the burnt milk (lazy me). Now I clean, and cool down the Aeroccino with fridge water between frothings. Your videos were informative and entertaining. :)

[@razenby]

Great job. Good to know I am not wasting my time. It is gratifying to know that stuff is being saved by intrepid people like yourself. Thanks for watching.

[@marandaewen8818]

Thanks for the video! Saved me from having to buy a whole new frother. I just purchased the fuses from Amazon (pack of 5) and was able to replace it without any soldering. I just slid back the clear sleeve, undid the clamps , replaced the fuse, and re-clamped.

[@razenby]

Great job.

[@bingcrosby1879]

Might I ask what you put into Amazon to get these fuses?

[@jordivisbeen5323]

Thanks for the clear video on the disassembling part. I my case sometimes the motor would not spin. Turned out that there was a loose soldering joint at one connection point of the motor (red wire). Quickly held the soldering iron against it, and we have a full working unit again! Also re-soldered the black wire. I guess they come loose because of the vibration..

[@razenby]

Great job. These things are a victory of style over quality and function....

[@Apocalypse.2]

Great video! Maybe I’m over thinking but wouldn’t switching out the 13amp fuse in the 3 pin plug to a 3amp make the inline fuse redundant and easy to repair in the event over current were to occur?

[@razenby]

That would work but is not recommended as best practice for two reasons: 1. The plug-top fuses tend to be quite slow to react t anything other than a catastrophic overload.. A in the unit taking say 6 Amps a lot of smoke and even fire can be produced but can take a while for a 3 Amp fuse will blow. 2. The protection is not there if the counter-top power is substituted. I know this as this frother will work on almost any kettle base used in the UK. It works on our 3kW kettle base.

[@flipschwipp6572]

Thanks for showing how to open this sucker. In mine (3194) the relay contacts were corroded so i just changed the relay for a new relay.

[@razenby]

Good tip. Had they got wet?

[@flipschwipp6572]

@@razenby I dont think they got wet, the enclosure was dry and the relay itself is sealed. It was just badly manufactured or normal degradation. Spare relay parts number is 834-1a-b-c-9VDC but 12VDC is more available and also works from 9VDC according to the datasheet.

[@razenby]

@@flipschwipp6572 Cheers. Good info.

[@michaelaldworth8136]

Good morning. Thanks for the video. Do you have any more thermal fuses available please? Thanks Mike

[@razenby]

Mike sorry for late reply. Yes I have a couple if you need one.

[@TangodownNZ]

These repair videos are gold. Thank you very much. I suspect my one has this same problem. My Nespresso Essenza Mini will not stop pumping water unless I pull the wall plug out. It would be great if you could look at a potential cause of this. Liked, subscribed

[@razenby]

If the buttons seem to work and the motor just wont stop it might be a stuck motor relay or switch transistor. If lights doesn't respond t button presses then it is likely the controller has gone wrong.

[@bharatpuri84]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. I have the same issue, but can't kind a screw driver that can help open the customised frother screws. Can you clarify what scre driver you had used? Whats the head called? Thanks

[@razenby]

Just search Amazon or eBay for security driver bits. Look like a cross-head screw driver but with only three flutes,

[@rafailkoutsogiannis9552]

17:15 - If the offline switcher chip has blown out, is it possible to fix it or does it go straight to the landfill? I opened my Aeroccino the other day and it looked until I noticed that the top of the chip was broken.

[@razenby]

It can be fixed remember to check the surrounding diodes and series input resistor. usually about 27 ohm 2 watt wire wire wound. Laquer the chip and PCB after changing. Clear nail varnish will do, Remember to subscribe too!! Thanks

[@oxharp]

Hi where can I get the base screw bits from please.

[@razenby]

Triangular bits....www.amazon.co.uk/Mesee-Magnetic-Triangle-Screwdriver-Triangular/dp/B08H8DM7BW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2D5JAU1B4CI0Z&keywords=triangular+screwdriver+bits&qid=1663675381&sprefix=triangular+scredwriver+bits%2Caps%2C56&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySjBRUldWQkFRSTk5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjIxNDA4MlVDQlFETlBQWUlCSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTg3NTM4MU0xUDRRSkpYTFI2NyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[@michaelburton9830]

You saved my 5 star rating as DIY Mike, I was beavering away with opening the bottom - thanx!!

[@razenby]

I learned years ago: Fiddle with the top before fiddling with the bottom!

[@mohamedsakka2338]

@@razenby HAHA

[@Fanzindel]

I’ve spun mine without fluids and it’ll blink red recognizing the lack of fluid and shut down and work again later. So the fuse doesn’t blow right away. It will normally shut down before that. Something didn’t shut off in yours that caused the fuse to go. Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@razenby]

Almost correct. I know what the problem is because I simulated it. In the UK the voltage is typically 240V AC and in some areas as high as 275V (as it is in my house now). (official mains spec is 230+ 6% -10% VAC). These products are designed for 220-230V AC. As you know the power dissipation in the element is proportional to the square of the RMS voltage. The relationship between supply voltage and heat is not linear. When turned to heat when there is no liquid, the unexpected additional dissipation in the element unbalances the dynamic thermal relationship between the controller's thermistor sensor (designed to shut down the heater safely) and the Thermal fuse (designed to stop a fire or melt-down). I tried it and found the micro controller shuts of the heater power and then about 15 seconds later the thermal fuse blows due to the heat continuing to conduct to the fuse by the overheated element. You can see this in the video as the unit was drawing much more power than stated on the product label and specification. Schoolboy design!!

[@ChrisWhite-yv3us]

Did reverse the contact white and red on motor connect on SMEG mf110 as not spinning and it worked just wanna put that out there

[@razenby]

Interesting but wait, does this mean that the bubbles will be left-handed?

[@marianojuarezdambola]

Hi there! Please help. First things first, THANK YOU. I need ro replace exactly that same part, but I couldn’t find the fuse anywhere. I found option for + or - 150 degrees Celsius, which is fair enough. But, in respect to the amperes, those options only come in 10A or more. Sorry for my ignorance, what I remember from high school is that more amperes wouldn’t damage any circuit. Is that right? Can I put a 10A 150 degree thermal fuse then into this thing?

[@razenby]

The thermal fuse is overtemp protection device. The current rating is the working current. i.e. It doesn't provide over-current protection. If you are in the UK and you have a 13A UK plug then for over-current protection simply fit a standard 3 Amp fuse in the plug and then you can safely use the fuse you have bought. Good luck.

[@marianojuarezdambola]

@@razenby Thanks for your answer! I’m actually living in France now, btw. Sorry if I wasn’t clear enough before. I don’t want an over current fuse, I don’t think I need that kind of protection. The only problem I have is that I cannot find the 22xr (4A 250v) fuse at the store. They have similar models, but the AMPs are not the same. So my concern is that if I install, for example, a 5A fuse, I could burn anything in the circuit. Is this a problem then?

[@kentsmith7507]

Thanks. I bought one of these for $2 that had this problem and fixed it for $4 using your info. :) BTW - it's fine to run without milk. I have another one and after every use, I wash it out and run it without anything in it as a drying method. Been doing this for 3-4 years without the thermal fuse blowing. The problem one I had looked like the milk temp probe (that one on the spring) had come away from the base probably causing it to continue to heat more that it should. So it's quite important to get good contact there.

[@razenby]

Cant run them at 240V in the UK without milk. They run at 100 Watts more than stated on the label.,

[@he_is_matt]

I'm wondering if that's the problem I have, the temp probe. Mine seems to run too long, scorching the milk. Did you reapply the thermal compound that's on the board?

[@thedyers4318]

Thanks for the fix it breakdown. Mine got dropped and was simply that the magnet had been rattled out of that plastic cage. Easily fixed. Would have thrown it away had I not found your video. Cheers.

[@razenby]

Great news. Another one saved!

[@panbobber9515]

Thx a lot, 3,-€ for a successful repair - perfect, I‘m happy and I saved 70,-€ for new one

[@razenby]

Glad I could help

[@TarekKatbeh]

I have the US version of this machine designed for 110v but was connected to 220v socket and stopped working. Which part do I need to replace to have it fixed?

[@razenby]

Doe the motor spin but no heat ? If so the thick film printed element has blown. Otherwise it may be the main fuse due to over-current. The design of the controller is universal voltage input.

[@jonting7847]

Hi great vid. But mine spins half a turn then stops . If the thermal fuse is blown it wouldn’t turn at all. I suspect the other thermal cut off is malfunctioning… Any ideas? Thanks for the help Edit :: I’ve now fixed this by reversing the polarity of the motor. Swap red and black pins and it works !

[@razenby]

Take it out an have a look at the contacts where the power comes into the electronics. It could be it arcs when the heater element is turned on. This happens after a short delay to allow the whisk to get up to rotational speed. . You may be able to see arcing where the contacts bring in the power or where the power is delivered via contacts to the thick-film heating element. Inspect clean and reset )bend) the contacts as necessary. This is the usual cause.

[@miguelpilgrim]

I have the same problem. Spins half a turn and turns off instantly. Tried swapping the pins on my motor and it has not fixed it for me in this case.

[@SaurisMTB]

Thanks for the hint how to open the device. I removed the thermal resistor [correction: fuse] completely. I guess that the milk cooker gets a bit too hot since the milk tends to burn in a bit (although the device swicthes off correctly); it seems that the temperature sensor and the heat protection are too close, explaining why the latter blows. I will see how long the device lasts.

[@razenby]

Note, it is a thermal safety fuse not a resistor the removal of the thermal fuse constitutes a fire risk. If the controller crashes or the heater relay weld closed it will could well melt down. . It is designed for 230VAC mains. Because the mains in the UK can be as high as 245V the thick-film heating element is to powerful and the production variance of the thickness of the print of the element can affect the power level. Every failed unit I have tested draws more power than stated on the label. Our house cabling and power supply is a much better suited to delivering the full mains voltage at the socket. The dynamics of the thermistor and the thermal fuse are wrong. The design of this product is an environmental crime. I have a new milk frother from Lidl that works much better as it keeps the whisk running for about eight seconds after the heater is turned off. This prevents charring of very frothy milk as the milk keeps circulating.

[@SaurisMTB]

@@razenby agree

[@samuelkeen6733]

Does anybody know where I can buy the parts needed? Any links available?

[@frumme2ya]

Thank you for the very helpful video. Would you happen to be familiar with the BMF600XL Breville milk frother? Mine seems to work once in a while, but generally just heats up without frothing at all. Even more bizarre is that my friend has the same model and all other combinations work (i.e. my tank with my friend's base, his tank with my base, his tank with his base), but not my tank with my base. Do you know if what you did in this video would fix my issue? It almost seems like it simply is a "contact" issue between the tank and base...

[@razenby]

Likely a bad connection of the spring contact onto the heating element. You can open it up and give them a tweak to make them press harder onto the thick film, heating element contacts. Also it could be a sticky mains relay - they are prone top that.

[@frumme2ya]

@@razenby Thank you so much for the reply. Any chance you would have a detailed how-to you could point me to on fixing those two potential issues?

[@jakobulsdal9196]

Awesome teardown and explanation👍 Was so close to just throw it in the bin, but having tested the fuse I realised it has the same issue 👌😃 Always a huge satisfaction mending thing instead of just buying new stuff 😊 Thanks!!🙏

[@razenby]

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

[@RickSwartwood]

Thank You. I'm going to find these parts and seee if I can fix. - do you happen to have a direct link for the two items needed?

[@razenby]

Sorry I donthave any parts but I will order some. I got fed up with eBay as some end users were clueless and were claiming the I sent were bad when there was clearly a blown controller. They didn't even check the parts they took out to confirm the fault. 100% their bad and eBay just went around refunding some buyers. Not interested in fair play or justice just trying to compete with Amazon.

[@GadgetoidUK]

My original - 11+ year old - Aerocinno just added itself to the blown fuse graveyard. Mine is slightly different, though, with an SMD part directly mounted to the heating element and the red wire routed well out of the way. At least I think that’s what it was- it has totally evaporated.

[@razenby]

It is a printed fuse where the conductive ink is exposed (i.e no ceramic glaze). When it get hot it oxidises and disappears. The best frother to get is the Ambiano. It is cheap, works well and is very reliable. It doesn't suffer the design flaws that plague the he others. Aldi sell them from time to time or Ebay.

[@TheDukeOfReason]

I know this is an old video now but I'm curious as the voltage for 240 states 4amp, why did you order 3 amp fuses?

[@razenby]

The unit draws ~550 watts at 240V with unity power factor. That is a smidge over 2 amps....

[@TheDukeOfReason]

@@razenby oh so how come the original fuse is rated for 4 amps at 240 volts? 🤷🏽‍♂️

[@davidcarlislebtinternetcom]

Hi Magic Smoke, thank you for your great video. Would it be possible to buy the resisters from you please. If not would you mind sending me a link to where I can buy them. Thank you David

[@razenby]

Hi David, I don't have any at present. I will scout my component box and see if I have any spares. I got fed up with the 5% of people on eBay that are idiots. Unfortunately eBay doesn't recognise the difference between an upstanding buyer and disingenuous idiot. As they say: No good deed goes unpunished!

[@razenby]

the best set to get in the UK is listed as 'Draper 33 Piece Security Screwdriver Set' It is priced around £5 / US$7. It is on Amazon and eBay. Hopefully they are available near where you live.

[@3skidrowe]

Take a (an old, crapped out) Phillips bit, put it on a grinder, and create your own in a few minutes as an alternative. Hold with a tightened vice grip for absolute control.

[@alessandroc7985]

hello, can you help me to solve the problem of my aeroccino? I press start and the engine receives a small impulse, the red LED lights up for a few moments but then everything stops

[@razenby]

Difficult to be certain as there can be several causes. Check connection between the contacts in the base and the controller. The contacts may be loose - you can see effects of sparking on the contacts. Does the whisk spin freely- check motor spindle isn't seized. failed reservoir smoothing capacitor on low voltage side of off-line mains buck mains regulator. Buck regulator chip failed. Thermistor has failed.

[@alessandroc7985]

@@razenby In the meantime, thank you for your reply, the card of my aeroccino is different from the one in the video (it doesn't have a thermal fuse) Could you point me in a picture of the controller the following components: tank smoothing capacitor, regulator chip and thermistor? Grazie e Ciao

[@SandraLacayo-ks6fm]

My frother is working but won’t heat the milk! Do you think it is the same problem as yours? Or is it just the contact with the blue resistance around the board ?

[@razenby]

Probably the thermal protection section on the thick file-screen-printed element. Inspect for burn out.

[@psmount]

Mine doesn’t have a thermal fuse at all. The red wire just goes straight across. The section of heating element directly under your fuse was however severed twice at the ‘double back’ spot. I tried to link those up but failed. Good video though. Well done.

[@razenby]

Hi Pete Cheers,

[@alanvango5677]

Hi mate I'm trying to get in touch with you pls I need the 2 parts from you how do i contact pls

[@razenby]

Sorry, I dont have any stock right now.

[@angelesgepulle9708]

Mine didnt light when I push button to make milk froth .what is wrong

[@razenby]

Probably the fuse blown..??

[@PP-qx6ss]

Hey I have this can you repair it for me if I send it across and also I need help with aeroccino 4 base it's not working due to power surge

[@razenby]

Sorry, I am up to my ears paid work at the moment.

[@waeld4234]

Do you still have a spare?

[@razenby]

No sorry. I used to supply them but just got inundated with questions. You can buythe parts on Aliexpress

[@arashpakraftar3343]

Thanks for video, my thermal fuse is fine but not heating what component may cause?

[@razenby]

Check the spring contacts are making good contact with the heating element. Check the heating element resistance with a multi meter. It should be between 100 to 130 ohms approximately.

[@arashpakraftar3343]

@@razenby Thank your for the reply,I did reassemble it and switch to cold and the hot then it works!!! I didn't find out why but it works now!!

[@이현승-z4p1j]

dear magic smoke, I have same aeroccino. And I can't hot milk, I can use only cold milk bubble. In this case is also temperature sensor or other problem? please give me ur advise.

[@razenby]

Hi, It is most likely one of three causes. Take the cover off and 1. Check that the spring contacts are pressing on the heating element with firm pressure. See if there is any evidence of sparking between the contacts and the contacts on the heating element printed circuit. Use metal polish to clean the contacts of they are discolored. bend teh contacts so the sit slightly higher before reassembly. (This will ensure reliable contact). 2. Inspect the heating element printed circuit carefully. If it is open circuit you should see some witness on the tracking. Measure the heating element printed circuit resistance with a multi meter. The 220V model will measure between 100 and 120 Ohms. 110V version will measure approximately half the resistance of the 220 volt model, 3. It could be a failed relay. The relay switches only the heating element. Good luck with it.

[@verorodz12]

Hello@@razenby , hopefully your doing well! Thank you for your informational video. I have the same 👆🏻Problem, but not the same aeroccino . The bottom part has a different openings. It doesn't use the Tri.. I could send a picture. Greetings

[@razenby]

@@verorodz12 Thanks. Send a picture to [e-mail].

[@verorodz12]

@@razenby sent, thank you!

[@Tiffanyofoz]

I have the same problem with my Nespresso Aeroccino Milk Frother from my magimix m190 as you have in this video, GREAT VIDEO by the way. I have cleaned off the scorched milk and tried it again. The same thing keeps happening, scorched milk ring. Any Suggestions?

[@razenby]

It could be the microprocessor crashing. Unfortunately if you turn on with no liquid in just once it it will happen on UK mains as it was really designed for 220 230V and UK mains can go up to 245.

[@jdpdm]

What I never found out: How to assemble the parts again so that the small silikon nose (the switch inside the blank cup) gets back into the hole of the motor again for the on/off function :/

[@razenby]

Take the button out of the housing and refit after sliding the mechanism into place.

[@hanytakla325]

Great DIY, anyone can help with the number of the offline switcher next to the high voltage capacitor @ minute 10:08 , mine is damaged and can't find the number anywhere - I have exactly the same board (8 pin IC) Thanks in advance

[@hanytakla325]

Found an image of nespresso frother but I think the board is slightly different, it's showing offline switcher with the code LNK306GN, however it has only 7 pins while mine has 8 pins, I don't know much about electronic stuff but I think it's not the same part, what do you think ? And appreciate if anyone can help with the switcher at minute 10:08, thanks

[@razenby]

If you have an 8 pin device then the datasheet id displayed in part two of the Aerccino repair video. I think it is a Texas Instruments chip.

[@hanytakla325]

@@razenby watched part 2 twice and couldn't find it 😪, appreciate ur help

[@hanytakla325]

Any luck with the Offline switcher number shown in minute 10:08 🤔

[@qwertyuiop999988]

Can you fix this for me? Will Pay?

[@razenby]

No sorry, I am working on design contracts,. I don't have any spare time. Thanks for watching.

[@core2udo746]

Thanks for the Video, could you add a list of the needed Parts in the video?

[@razenby]

Look at around 17 minutes on this video, Repair is covered in part 2.

[@andycollins4453]

Help mine has no visible thermal fuse ...any ideas how to fix please the red wire which has the thermal fuse on your Nespresso is just a continuous wire - thanks I got it to pieces ok 🙂

[@razenby]

I have just made a video on how to fix the heating element in the Aeroccino that does not have a thermal fuse. It is on the channel in the Aeroccino playlist.

[@999playitagain]

Hi, how do you remove the plastic casing on the motor and the magnet, please?

[@razenby]

Sorry I haven't tried that move..

[@gregralston5874]

I’ve been looking for help repairing my slightly older model for months and stumbled across this one. Many thanks as it is extremely helpful. Have you any of the fuses left over? I’d be willing to pay the post.

[@razenby]

I will have a look.

[@OliFairfax]

Me too please :)

[@phatysss6180]

hello..may i know the size and shape of the screwdriver to open the motor?thank you

[@razenby]

It is a Trilobular screwdriver but a small-medium flat bladed driver can be lodged into the head to undo the screws.

[@phatysss6180]

@@razenby thank you

[@3skidrowe]

To create a triple lobe . . . . take a (an old, crapped out) Phillips bit, put it on a grinder, and create your own in a few minutes as an alternative. Hold with a tightened vice grip for absolute control.

[@razenby]

Good tip. They can also be removed them before with a small/medium flat blade that lodges quite well in the screw head.

[@monohoh]

hi! thank you for your video! I am an industrial design student and designing a milk frother. I am struggling with this machine's dimensions like motors, resistance parts, etc. If you have this product with you can you help me with the overall dimensions? If you can I would be very happy :) thank you, and have a nice day!

[@razenby]

The best bet is to get hold of a few and note their designs and most importantly their weaknesses. • Consider in your preliminary work on the project and detail your findings: • Motors are usually DC 12 volts. You can cannibalise a failed frother from eBay to get the parts you need. • Many models suffer charring of the milk that gets burned onto the heating area of the unit and is difficult to remove. • There are many variants of 'mil' Skimmed, semi skimmed, pasteurized, Oat etc etc. Not all of them froth. test and note the differences. • Experiment with different whisk shapes and speed and note the results of your trial. • Some models, Nespresso for example, do not do well on UK mains where the voltage can exceed 250V AC. Dissipation in a resistor increases with the square of the voltage. This causes huge reliability issues and milk charring. • Thermal coupling between heater temperature and the sensor need to be excellent so you can react really fast to someone powering up when the unit is empty. Tens of thousands of Nespresso units have ended up in landfill due to poor design in this respect. • Why oh why don't they run the whisk on for 10 seconds after the heater is turned off (set temp reached)? The frothy milk chars after the whisk is turned off. • There is no PID or thermal modelling of the unit in the firmware. Reduction of the heater power input when approaching the set point would prevent milk drying and burning on the heating area of the canister. • Consider using a Triac instead of a relay for heater power input control then you have the ability can pulse the heater power with the micro to any level you need. Control is key. • If you have the skills then the best bet might be to take a Nespresso, analyse it and produce a report regarding the appalling design and redesign without the Achilles heel faults.

[@carlossalvadorcastellanosh9342]

greattttt..........thanks for your help........grettings from mexico

[@razenby]

Hi Carlos, I hope things are good for you over in Mexico. UK Politicians have gone crazy!!

[@monabri7387]

I've just taken my 10 year old Aero apart...what thermal fuse ? (certainly not an in line one like he one you show. We have bought another Nespresso machine (Krups) even though the old machine is still going but the aero has just failed. I'm taking the old one apart because it seems like a good idea at the time!

[@razenby]

I just made a new video showing how to fix the the early aeroccino heating element (the type that is not fitted with a thermal fuse)

[@rorygoodman2670]

Hi, I put my protein shake in the throther and it stopped working, a bad smell came from the throther have I burnt the motor out or is the thermal fuse blown?

[@razenby]

Probably the thermal fuse. It is easy to blow and easy to check. Have look. I sell fuses at cost on eBay.

[@lydiabedford9166]

Do you still have any of the fuse parts to buy rather than me purchasing the full pack? Thank you for a very useful video!

[@razenby]

Thanks. Yes. Email me [e-mail]

[@janecroot7960]

Thank you so much - £2.99 to fix the problem! So much better than having to buy a new one

[@razenby]

Great to hear. Merry hristmas.

[@piapapaya9897]

after 3 months mine does not froth milk like the way it used to... now it's sudsy and full of bubbles... what's wrong with mine?

[@razenby]

Maybe the spinner isn't going full speed? Check it is clean and check the magnet is present. The type of milk also makes a greart difference. Skimmed Long life milk is like bubble bath whereas pasturised skimmed milk doesn't foam much.

[@piapapaya9897]

@@razenby thanks so much. I use 2% all the time... this morning I opened another gallon of 2% then it's perfect again... I am guessing it's the milk that is the culprit... I'll see in the next few days.. thanks again Sir!

[@lentner3]

Have you got any of the thermal fuses spare or am I 3 years too late 😂. Thanks for the vid

[@razenby]

I will have a look.

[@katherinekalimnakis4986]

The frother only shows the blue light not the red so I cant make a hot drink. What can I do to fix this? TIA

[@razenby]

Not sure what causes that, Open her up and check the element and fuse (if fitted) are good.

[@kristinferguson1189]

When I opened mine (and hoo boy was it hard to remove from the sleeve!) I discovered that my fuse is "222R UMI 5A 115C 250V~ PT" and I couldn't find any with that exact specification anywhere, but I can get "222R UMI 5A 115C 250V~ TF". Is there any difference between the PT and the TF at the end? Will the TF version work? I am not experienced at all with any of this stuff.

[@razenby]

I reviewed the datasheets for you. The 22R part of the designator is the pertinent bit of teh spec. So you should be good with either part at 115VAC. Link to datasheets: cci-tco.com/thermal-link/

[@paulfanner4046]

I was given a non working Aeroccino 3190. It's not exactly the same as the one in the video, but it has the same thermal fuse. A dead fuse. I'm in Cape Town and I found RS here had replacements at R14 in a pack of ten, , but I also found a single one at R24 at Mantech

[@razenby]

Any fuse with the correct temperature will be OK.

[@amcc2531]

I have one of these frothers , I replaced the blown part with a thermal resettable fuse SF129E rated 133 deg c , 10 Amp / 250V It should have reset after cutting out !! However it is dud !! Not very encouraging as it should have worked

[@razenby]

The fuse I have seen in these are one shot over temp and blow i.e. - I have never seen a non resettable type in an aeroccino. The current rating on these devices usually refers to the max operating current at the rated temperature. Check the component datasheet, They aren't to be used as a current fuse.

[@Ishi-xi3mr]

Hi Magic Smoke, are you still able to send the components abroad?

[@razenby]

I am not sure I have any stock left at the moment. I'll see if I have few left over and get back to you. We post internationally every working day so no problem getting one out to you if I have one as I just tell someone to do it. I don't list on eBay's anymore due to idiots that expect a new fuse to fix every fault. Too much admin for a non-profit activity, It just goes to prove the old adage 'no good deed goes unpunished'

[@Ishi-xi3mr]

@@razenby thank for your help. I already soldered the wire to confirm that the issue is related to the fuse. Without the fuse the frother is working fine. Hope to hear from you.

[@tahanialqahtani1357]

My aerrocino used to work just fine but lately the red button keeps blinking and doesn’t make any froth anymore.. it’s just new I don’t know what’s wrong with it... everything is clean and looks fine. I bought it 4 weeks ago

[@razenby]

Not sure what that error is. Anyone know?

[@nokasukondhabhant5751]

Having the same problem now...

[@tahanialqahtani1357]

Noka Sukondhabhant the issue was with the milk I guess.. I changed the milk and it went back to normal :/

[@phatysss6180]

hello..may i know what size and shape of the srewdriver needed to open the motor?there are 2 screw attach.thank you

[@razenby]

Sorry I do not know - Anyone?

[@str8kronic]

This was an amazing video..very informative. Thank you so much

[@razenby]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@angelika9128]

Hi, my Aeroccino went the other day. I checked and it's the thermal fuse that's blown exactly like yours. By any chance would you have any spare left of these fuses please.

[@razenby]

Hi angelica, yes I do. Send me a message and donate £3.50 to your favorite charity and I will send some out. They are in stock at my office and they ship every day. Send your address to [e-mail]

[@angelika9128]

@@razenby Thank you so much for your kind offer, I have sent my address to your email now.

[@angelika9128]

@@razenby Hi sorry but is the email you gave me correct as I am getting an Address Not Found error for that email address

[@razenby]

@@angelika9128 It is the correct address.

[@mannyevangelista]

Very helpful vid. Tnx! 👍👏🙋

[@razenby]

Thanks. Please like and subscribe if you can.

[@peerappel2012]

Thanks for sharing the insides! Was looking for how this actually worked, so now I know :-)

[@razenby]

No problem.

[@jacobframe8769]

Thank you for sharing. Subscribed

[@razenby]

Thanks for watching.

[@krob8547]

mine seems to be getting weak after having it for about 5 weeks from brand new ,any ideas would be very helpful thank you keep up the awesome videos

[@razenby]

Weak as in Hot milk no froth or....Is the interior including the inside of the rotary whisk clean? If so, it sounds like it has failed.

[@amydodd5609]

Same problem as K rob, it turns on and sounds like its frothing then when its stopped the milk isnt as hot as normal and there is just a couple of bubbles and no proper froth.

[@razenby]

Where in the world are you? If the UK then send it to me and I'll take a look and put a video up for others.

[@nerminahmed5840]

From where can I get the heating part for the aeroccino please..it's jot heating up the milk but it's frothing

[@razenby]

The travesty is that you cant get the heating element as a separate part. You need a whole new body can. I don't know if or where they are stocked. I have never seen.

[@nerminahmed5840]

Magic Smoke thank you so much

[@marcevans3980]

@magicsmoke Mine has just done the same, it’s frothing but not heat coming out of the unit. I guess your fix won’t help with this problem?

[@bastiaanw3519]

My son knocked the frother of the kitchen table and it started rattling inside, so I had to open it up to check what went wrong. So I ordered tri-lobe bits and got it open thanks to this video! Luckily only one of the plastic legs was broken, nothing seriously, or so it seems (have yet to re-assemble and test). [edit, 2 years later: it’s still working]

[@razenby]

Good job

[@zichiro]

How did you re assemble it? Im having a hard time with the last part because the rubber button is in the way

[@bastiaanw3519]

@@zichiroI can’t remember exactly, but what I do remember is that it comes to very precise positioning/rotation.

[@liquidlen9261]

hello, can you give me a link where I can buy the srewdriver you used for open the Aeroccino? thx

[@razenby]

Hi Len, the best set to get in the UK is listed as 'Draper 33 Piece Security Screwdriver Set' It is priced around £5 / US$7. It is on Amazon and eBay.

[@johnicke6303]

search Draper 31 piece precision screwdriver & bit set then use cr-v t10

[@InterstudyTeam]

How can I make it hotter?

[@razenby]

Is there anything in the instructions?

[@Stratofelipe]

Mine doesnt have that fuse... is another model so i guess with no fuse it died?

[@razenby]

I just released a video showing how to repair the element on Aeroccino that has no thermal fuse.

[@laloktifa]

My Aeroccino beats very well in the cold, but when I want hot it fixes but in one go it fails and the red light blinks and stops any idea how to fix it?

[@owoblackheart]

mine too, try to do cold froth for about 2-3 times until outer can feel warm, then try to do the hot froth, hopefully it can be done by now, this problem might be happened because the heater coil inside is already weakened or broken....

[@Vincthedwarf]

Tested the heat switch & it was good. I cleaned the two contacts on the heater with a flat screwdriver. The two arms of metal where not touching the contacts enough, I added more tension to them. And it worked again.

[@razenby]

Good job!

[@daverobertson8138]

@@razenby I checked all those things and mine is still flashing red when I try to heat How do I test the semiconductor?

[@isaacgill4943]

Great Video. Any chance you still have spares of these two parts i could buy from you so im not left with 9 extras ill have no use for? Kind regards Isaac

[@razenby]

Yes I have them. Send your address to [e-mail] and Ill post them out.

[@chrispope1241]

@@razenby I suspect you've kindly sold any remaining spares on to grateful people repairing their aeroccinos thanks to your helpful vid - if not, would you be happy to sell me a replacement fuse?

[@MrRoachman]

You obviously know your way about a circuit board, I have a faulty aerocchino 4 that is faulty, 4 lights flashing after you select program, unfortunately due to been over two years old nespresso will not exchange, they only replace and do not fix.Have you had any dealings or can you direct me to a site that I can buy new circuit board. Also would you be up for having a look and fix Ill obviously pay for all costs.

[@razenby]

Patrick. You can post it to me and Ill have quick look. No promises but I haven't seen a V4. Might make an interesting video.

[@razenby]

I bought a reel of each component - the thermal & 3A current fuses. They are listed in a Kit pre-crimped on a not-for-profit listing on eBay ITEM number 133511114094 . We ship internationally every day anyway so it is easy to slip in a few sets of parts into the packing stream to help Tubers.

[@holmsyholme2607]

Hi Magic, I've just purchased one of your kits. Its really kind of you to have split them up and to ship them out so we all don't have £10 worth of spares lying about lol.... So a big thank you for your time and effort.

[@razenby]

@@holmsyholme2607 No problem. The guys at office will ship later today. Another one saved ..

[@davidcarlislebtinternetcom]

Thank you

[@razenby]

You're welcome

[@jfzinsa]

Gracias por este video. Me ha sido muy útil. Saludos desde Cartagena. España.

[@razenby]

Dnada.

[@ru79dz]

Hi, are you still able to send in the parts abroad?

[@razenby]

Yes, we hold them is stock. [e-mail]

[@AJW618]

Thank you. Also a triggered/broken thermal fuse in our device. Easy diagnostic and fix with this video.

[@razenby]

Glad you found it useful

[@666dunney]

hi mate Can I send you my machine for you to fix if you can and how much thanks love my coffee.

[@razenby]

Sorry, I am working on a design contract at he moment so don't have time to take on repairs,

[@dkay636]

Mine works but won't frothe no more

[@razenby]

Doesn't that mean it doesn't work?

[@chrisl127]

Hi there. Fantastic, informative video I must say. On a slightly different topic if you don't mind; I have just recently purchased a faulty Lattissima One which is 'stuck in descaling mode'. When you switch the machine on at the wall, all of the lights on the machine start blinking, but the pump won't run at all. I have purchased a replacement thermal cut out fuse for the unit and intend to repair it this weekend. Do you think the issue will be a broken thermal fuse and I'm on the right track? Sorry to hijack the comments section on this video. I would have emailed you but don't have your email..

[@razenby]

Sorry, I don't know this model. Does descaling mode require user interaction?. Maybe there is a procedure required to notify that the scaling mode is completed. My Deloghi Cafe Corso machine is very picky about the process and sometimes you have to do it a couple of times to make the Descale light go out. ..

[@yerahmeelspawn]

How do i put it back? Lol

[@razenby]

Follow the video and feel your way...

[@yerahmeelspawn]

I felt a snap. and now a piece is hanging. lol@@razenby

[@kelleyrawlings]

Mike. God love ya for this, man. But I’m a middle aged house. I’m like WHATTTT??? I’m not equipped lol. Thank you anyway!

[@razenby]

You can do it!

[@zx8401ztv]

Now if they had a crude weight sensor, no milk = no boom :)

[@razenby]

I agree. It is optimised for 230V not nasty UK 240 to 260V. Power dissipation goes up a s a square of the voltage so the thing heats up so fast that the micro's thermistor lags so far behind that the thermal fuse blows before the Micro switches the element off.

[@womenrespecter879]

? They literally send you a bag so that you can recycle the pods

[@razenby]

Very generous of them... The whole set up is a crap idea. We threw ours out and bought a Delonghi bean to cup machine. It has worked perfectly every day for 36 months so far. Cheaper to run and youget to sniff the beans!!

[@joannavanweegen4936]

Can I send you my machine for you to fix.?! @magicsmoke 😆

[@razenby]

Joanna - Ill take a look if you still have it,

[@benjaminbaragry7928]

maybe not the nespresso story and just crack on mate

[@razenby]

Video is doing OK but thanks for the advice but I wont be taking it...

[@shirinnourmand2817]

I think you say a lot of stories before u get to the point, out of my patience

[@razenby]

Sorry these videos are evidently not for you. People that have no patience should watch channels with simple details delivered quickly..