RB20DET Rebuild (Part 1) Bottom End Assembly -- 350-400bhp

[@fhc1236]

Could do do a write up on torque specs on everything please

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Added torque specs to video description, let me know if I missed any and I'll add them

[@salbutt9]

Hi, what size bolts have you got to attach the engine to then engine stand?

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

I think they're M10 standard thread pitch, do you want the lengths as well?

[@salbutt9]

@@ToolTimeWithTom yeah I’ve got the same stand and always buy too long bolts and have loads sketchy washers

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Yeah mine normally have washers tbf, 90mm bolts should be just right though

[@brandondeel3567]

I know this video is a bit old but hopefully you are still active on here. I'm putting in new rod bearings in my buddies rb20 and I head online that torque specs are 14-16nm, then 60-65degree. Is your method of 20mn, then 40nm basically the same thing? I'm using the green plastigauge and they're falling within the .038 mark with the torque specs I'm using. I made a mistake and put the tangs on the wrong side so I have to go back tomorrow and flip those around so I'll have to torque them again. Do you recommend I keep using my method or do the 20nm then 40nm method you're using? I have a digital torque wrench so I can accurately do the 60 degree but I would rather get the info directly from someone with experience building these engines. This is my first time doing something like this and I want to make sure its absolutely right! Oh BTW, I'm not doing a full rebuild, I'm just replacing bearings from the pan. His #6 bearing took some damage but not enough to knock at idle. Only over 2500 rpm so we caught it before doing any damage to the crank. Theres no grooving and I'm polishing the crank smooth before installing new bearings. May not be the best way to do the job but I we don't have the resources to do a full breakdown. Any advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated! Hoping to get the bottom closed back up tomorrow.

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

So normally the torque application method is defined by the fixings used. Torque to yield bolts almost always use the angle method to set the clamp load, it's more accurate at hitting a precise clamp loading than a standard torque application. The Nissan standard fixings aren't torque to yield and should be fine with a standard torque application. I'm following the Nissan service manual so hopefully should be accurate and suitable for the fixings. Make sure you clean out the oil passages in the crank journals and use assembly lube going back together

[@brandondeel3567]

@@ToolTimeWithTom thanks for the reply man, I really appreciate it. I'll do the 20/40 method and check with plastigauge again to make sure tolerances are right. Its nerve racking doing something like this for the first time. I've seen that you need to be careful not to spray brake clean into the main passages when cleaning the rod passages? Should I just put some brake clean on a q tip and make a few passes that way or do you have another suggestion? I'm not using a crazy amount of polishing material so its not caking the passages but I definitely want to make sure they're clean.

[@brandondeel3567]

@@ToolTimeWithTom so I took out #3 today and it is spun. Theres some discoloration on the cap and the bearings are quite this. Also the lettering and numbers are worn off the cap. The discoloration is not on the crank itself, just part of the cap. I know it would be wise to replace the con rods but is there a chance that slight discoloration due to heat doesn't mean the cap/rod are trashed? New bearing still fits nice and tight in the cap. I am going to sand and polish the crank and check tolerances, if the tolerances are still in spec, is it ok to use the slightly discolored cap and rod? Engine is in the car and we're trying to not have to pull it and completely rebuild the engine if possible but I've never messed with internals so I'm not 100% sure what is still considered acceptable. This motor won't even see 300hp without doing rods which is a future project. We just want to get back to stock operation. He does have a aftermarket(same size) turbo and running about 10-12psi so its making a little more power than stock but nothing crazy. Any input is appreciated.

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

If it's spun it's time for a new rod. You'll have to take the head off anyway to get that out and get the crank measured. Pulling the motor only takes 2-3 hours start to finish, best to pull it out and go through everything

[@brandondeel3567]

@@ToolTimeWithTom oof. Well, I guess the motor is coming out. Found a crank about 5 hours away in good condition for a decent price. Might end up just replacing it instead of having it machined and having to run thicker bearings. That was not what we wanted to find but it is what it is. Thanks for the help man. I'll be using your video to rebuild his engine for sure. One more quick question. When I pull the pistons, is it required to hone the cylinders or should I just pop the pistons right back in as is? Seems like I wouldn't want to do that if everything is operating properly as is right? Like, I don't necessarily need to check the ring gap if everything was good prior to disassembly right?

[@tattoochez]

Hi tom do you have a Instagram account? I am just about to start a rb20 build i am hoping to use your guide to get us going