RCNC X2 Router 06: Frame Assembly part 2

[@DCT_Aaron_Engineering]

Hey Marcel, nice work mate. I like that aluminium extrusion system. It's so clean to work with and everything lines up perfectly. Can't wait to see it finished. Cheers Aaron

[@RoboCNCnl]

Hi Aaron ! Thanks for watching... I do love the profile also.. even way more sturdy than I hoped for.

[@cncdavenz]

The project is looking fantastic. You will have plenty of room underneath for some nice storage draws and other equipment. At what point did you realise that the inserts were left hand. I have done this type of thing before and it will take some time to get over it as most of us are perfectionists. The Angle brackets solved the problem :-) Keep up the good work. Cheers Dave.

[@RoboCNCnl]

Yes indeed... If you look closely at the end of the video you see a vacuum pump in the background. Hope to mount that one in the bottom, and also the electronics. Still there should be some room left. I had drilled all of them... I only did one with the cordless drill for the video the rest was on the big drill and they went in like butter so I did not notice. when mounting the nuts I had one that fell out and that was when it all came together... Well indeed the angle brackets solve the problem, and for structural purpose it's not that problematic. Thanks for your support Dave !

[@jorgenlannock]

mooie constructie.! ziet er zeer profesioneel uit! groetjes, jörgen

[@RoboCNCnl]

Bedankt Jorgen ! Leuk om te horen !!

[@jamesmaccubbin7434]

Hi Marel! I think I've found the CNC that I'm going to I'm going to modify for my own needs! I'm curious why you didn't use the more substantial fasteners that you used to attach the legs on the main frame of the CNC. According to 8020 (the provider of extrusion here in the States), those more substantial fasteners have a much higher strength than the smaller ones you used. Of course, they're several times the price as well.

[@RoboCNCnl]

The CNC rigidity comes from the upper part, and the frame underneath could have been just anything in my opinion. So by any means make it more sturdy, but you could also place the cnc machine on a workbench without mounting it even.

[@turningpoint6643]

That looks to be an extremely well designed system. And I'd feel just as bad as you do about that left handed thread, but were all creatures of habit. Most people have to concentrate a lot when dealing with left handed threads. Add in the extra attention needed while filming and it's not hard at all to make a mistake. No that probably won't help you feel better about it.

[@RoboCNCnl]

Thanks a lot for the great comment and support ! And you are absolutely right.... Making mistakes is human.. Also great to hear you like the design so far... again it came from learning from the previous design

[@turningpoint6643]

Well I hope you don't mind a design suggestion. You may already know about them or it may have already been suggested by someone else since I'm only fluent in English. Those roll pins are ok but a much better, more accurate, and easier to remove and install method is available although there not used as much today. Taper pins. Yes there harder to find and require the proper taper pin reamer. But if you use the type that have either a male or female thread on the large end they can be easily pulled just by using those threads and a bolt or nut and spacer for jacking them out. They obviously couldn't be used on those hardened linear rails of course. But for anything unhardened they work and locate parts into a very repeatable position.

[@RoboCNCnl]

Yes of course you might do suggestions ! We are all here on KZbin to learn from each other... I'm not completely sure though on how your comment relates to this video.. But taper pins sound like a great way to align stuff indeed... I could have used those in my Z axis design where I now used the spring style pins... especially on places where things need te be taken apart and put back together it sounds like a good choice..

[@turningpoint6643]

My apology's, I should have mentioned I meant for your aluminum plate parts and not for the extruded parts. The nice part about those taper pins is they only have to be pulled a few thousandth's of an inch before there loose and can be then removed with your fingers. And as you've said for multiple trial fits there much easier. Exact hole locations aren't required either since you align the parts, clamp them in place, then drill and ream the taper hole through both parts even with a portable drill. Roll pins are used by a lot of manufacturers today simply because it's a faster and cheaper method. They do make the taper pins without either a male or female thread on the large end, but those are meant for parts where you have access to both sides of a part so you can then use a punch on the small end to drive them out.

[@RoboCNCnl]

Nice info !

[@raulirimias4810]

I will keep you informed. Thank you for your quick answer. Keep up the good rough ;)

[@RoboCNCnl]

6 years ago already… still following along? Did you see our latest videos? Don’t forget to subscribe if not!!

[@chrisleech1565]

This system is not easy to come by where I live without some shipping expenses sadly, though I am driving a good distance to get some 2.5 meter lengths of 40 x 180 for a very good price as lightly used. I hope the one outlet I have found so far can do the machining I need for the universal anchors. I assume you are using 80 x 80 for the vertical and 40 x 100 for the cross members. Forgive me if you mention this Marcel.

[@RoboCNCnl]

Hi Chris, Yeah shipping is killing sometimes.... For exact sizes you can download the full drawings and price list of my website.. It is not as simple as only choosing the square 80x80 size or something like that, material mass is a key factor in the rigidity to...

[@MegaTopdogs]

Ach we maken allemaal wel eens een foutje , dat neemt niet weg dat dit een pracht van een cnc machine wordt.Even een vraagje aan jou robo , zou je ook weten waar ik taps toe lopende cnc bits kan krijgen voor 2.5 / 3D werk.(tapered cnc bits) alvast bedankt.De volgende kan er op , kan niet wachten en om te zien hoe die werkt in de praktijk.righty vs lefty, lefty vs righty.

[@RoboCNCnl]

Thanks buddy ! Ik kan ook niet wachten :) ben echt benieuwd hoe hij presteert tov de oude... Zoek op Ebay eens naar : Kegelfräser HM

[@MegaTopdogs]

Bedankt robo !

[@Tchefter]

Great Job and welcome to the Club @1:29 :) we all just Humans ;-)

[@RoboCNCnl]

Yes indeed.... :) Well It does hurt.... especially on film :')

[@raulirimias4810]

Hello Marcel. I saw that you posted a comment a few time ago about ClearPath Servo Motors from Teknic. I'm looking to mount them on my small Isel flatbed that I have and seemed to me that the Teknic motors are a good choice. What do you think about them?

[@RoboCNCnl]

Well I wish I could advice you on these.... They seem great, but I have not used or tested them so cant help.. I do believe in the setup like that, seems better than the standard closed-loop stepper systems. Let us know if you have tried.... And if the makers are reading with us, send me some for testing :)

[@thegreenman4898]

hi,if you dont mind me asking whats the approx cost of the profile and fasteners for this project ?

[@RoboCNCnl]

Hi.... Keep following this project.. I will release a full partlist, and pricelist later in this build. But I can say in front of time that I did not try to keep the cost down this build. The first router was a diy cost effective machine. This one is not, It is build to be as good as I can get it.. All the ITEM parts together is about 2300 Euro

[@thegreenman4898]

thanks, i know profile is expensive but didnt realise quite how much!

[@RoboCNCnl]

Yes but there are way cheaper profiles... This is real German quality I pay for.. And dont forget the top side is made of very thick profile... halve of this would probably be fine.. But I'm going for it this time..

[@jaapdekker5983]

awsome! geweldig!

[@RoboCNCnl]

Bedankt Jaap !!

[@gds6395]

What kind of CAD program did you use to design the framework?

[@RoboCNCnl]

Autodesk inventor