RDWorks Learning :Lab 192. New Parts now Available and Detailed Explanation of Beam Setting

[@nicojk79]

My favorite part of the day is sitting back with a coffee and watch any of your videos, where I learn and realize where I am screwing it up while tuning my machine. Nice one, Russ! Keep them coming!

[@frijoli9579]

That was several years of experience condensed into hour. Well done sir. Watched every one of your videos!

[@davev5686]

Russ, Your videos just keep getting better and better. I have a list of them I pass on to new people on getting things aligned. This consolidates most of them into one. Thank you again.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Dave Thanks for the comment. You must remember this is SELFISHLY MY learning journey. Because my other hobby is video and editing, recording my learning experience is a great way for me to create video material. It's win ,win for me. I just happen to let you guys look over my shoulder while I let whatever is passing through my mind escape out of my mouth.. ( I edit the expletives!!). As I say in the video I learn, push on, improve designs and push on and push on. To me everything is logical and smooth. However, faced with the discipline of organizing everything I had created to send to Cloudray , made me realize that I may have left a trail of puzzled onlookers behind. What I have done here with this video is unusual for me, I have stopped for a couple of weeks and tried to unravel all the intertwined elements that have got me to this point. Hanging it around the theme of beam alignment seemed like a great vehicle to explain why and how all the various design improvements happened. Best wishes Russ

[@davev5686]

@@SarbarMultimedia I definitely look forward to your next installments. You seem to thrive on having several different pots to stir. Your information shared here and in our emails have made a world of difference in what I can do and what I expect from my China Red. I will also SELFISHLY say that even though the type of work and materiel are totally different, I can still glean bits and pieces that still apply to my MDF work. I will pick your brain for bits and pieces until you tell me to go away. Thank you for all the great information and videos.

[@mrcvry]

SarbarMultimedia I do not know how I could have solved the problems without your help!

[@JERRYIRWIN41]

Brilliant.... you have just solved my long lasting problem of my cuts not being vertical. I did not relise the beam had to pass EXACTLEY through the lens centre. I had always assumed that a couple mm off centre was ok... I WAS WRONG !!! I have now adjusted beam to centre of lens and YIPEEE... NO ANGLE CUTS. Thank you...

[@jameshopton8591]

i thought i had done sufficient research on k40 lasers... until i bought one and found out just how much i didnt know! your video has been immensely helpful in understanding how to dial in my machine. I'm also very interested in the data pack.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi James None of this kit is designed for a K40 machine. There are several designs of K40 but all have very minimalist lightweight heads already. However,, the heads all lack adjustment to allow easy and accurate beam setting. The biggest limitation is the inability to fit different lenses and the lack of air assist. I have a project in development at present where I am trying to make a special version of the lightweight head that will fit a K 40 but it is several weeks away so don't hold your breath. I have a non working K40 that I am using for the design work but I will need a few guinea pigs to evaluate the design before I pass it to Cloudray for wider sale. Send me your disguised email address in another comment and I will keep in touch. Best wishes Russ

[@jameshopton8591]

I realize that your parts aren’t designed for the k40; I was hoping I might be able to adapt them in some fashion so that they might fit. It’s possible that I’ve purchased the worst k40 ever built and until I saw your video I’d been a chicken with my head cut off. In any case I look forward to seeing what’s in store for the future!

[@vaughanza]

Thanks, Russ , appreciate your time .

[@leftblank]

What another amazing video Russ. I love the dedication to problem solving and your ability to describe and show the issues. I liked the demonstration about the cut angles. That’s something my machine does. I’m not sure the size or attachment points of mine but maybe one day I will and can fix this. I’d much rather have a video like this that is 54mins long that makes sure I understand the issue than a shorter one that skips over things. Thank you. As for the designs of these parts. Where online are they? Could you put a link in the description?

[@fassy72]

Great stuff, with you head my Maschine goes also with 1200mm/s. Thank you so much

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Speed is only one small benefit of this upgrade. Your machine would have run at 1200mm/s before the change BUT it may have taken 200 mm each end of a scan to slow down and turn round. the real gain is to be had by increasing the ACCELERATION see this video to really turbo charge your machine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3qWiZ2YbLWaoac Best wishes Russ

[@JustinMeaux]

This may sound like a silly suggestion, but considering the amount of modification you're putting into your machine at this point, it might warrant serious thought. Why not move the laser tube to be oriented parallel to the y axis instead of the x? You're already building a special mounting system for the tube. You're already building an extension arm out the side of your machine to accommodate a larger tube. It might make the machine look a little silly with a big arm coming out the back, but in most shops, the thing doesn't really get moved much anyway. In moving the tube, you could not only make the alignment process easier, but you'd also increase the efficiency in power. Removing mirror one would mean a few percentage boost in power. Love these videos. You're the reason I have one of these wonderful tools!

[@thebeststooge]

I have had this discussion with Russ a few years ago, and I have since studied it, and the pro is you eliminate one whole mirror (#1 is gone) and you increase in power by the percentage that mirror was costing you. The negative is having a six to eight foot thing in the back as most shops are set up for things to be wide not deep. Another problem is safety both mechanically and electrically because it would take an enclosure that would now be as wide as it is presently to also being the same deep (or close to it). What a beast of a machine. I personally could not do it as the depth becomes too much but if I could I would one hundred percent do it.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Justin I remember the discussion with "Best Stooge" it was great fun, Much as your idea seems to have an obvious 4% power gain by saving a mirror there is a much bigger and more practical problem than the space issue. Imagine your left arm ito be laser tube. Point at something that is above your shoulder height and a bit to the left. Now further to your left identify a wall socket that will be below your shoulder height You now have to get your arm parallel with the left wall and parallel to the floor and finish up pointing directly at that socket. Can you design a tube holder with X Y and Z adjustments and rotation on each axis that would allow you to do this? That is exactly what would be required to align the beam with the Y axis. That would be some beast!!! Compare that to the TWO adjusting screws on mirror 1 that achieves the same thing. I think 4% power loss is a much better option and as for the suggestion of it being easier to adjust.....hmmmm, just visualize how you would do it. I love reinventing the wheel and if we only look at the plusses I think the square wheel has a lot of merits. Saving of handbrakes on cars, reduced pollution and petrol costs, and who would want to pinch your alloy squares? Best wishes Russ

[@thebeststooge]

@@SarbarMultimedia Iol. I bet it could be done but damn I all but forgot we have 3 dimensions we have to worry about so the tube would need to go up, down, left, and right and all points in between. Trivial for a mirror but for a laser tube? Not so much.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@thebeststooge Great to see you are still up and running. I have had several private emails on this "great " idea to improve my machine. I hate knocking people's genuine beliefs so a nice mix of logic and humor seems to work well. I love it when people suggest improvements because occasionally I can really benefit from it. I never steal ideas I like to give credit and praise for innovative thought even if I take the idea into a different direction. Stay safe Russ

[@thebeststooge]

@@SarbarMultimedia Right, and understandable. A lot of people forget just what we have to do to get the mirrors aligned and fail to project that to the tube. For instance the tube would need to not only move in X, Z, and Y but, as I said, all points in-between so the tube would also need to be able to move diagonally to the first mirror. Without that ability you may get it aligned dead centre on the first mirror when it is close but not when it is the farthest away (or vice versa). This is where people forget. edit: Another thing people forget that a small move at the lens of the tube to align it is amplified at the rear of the tube in the opposite direction, so 1mm down would swing the end up by 1mm so now you need the tube cavity even deeper.

[@VWKID61]

My question is with an open mirror system on the head how do you keep the mirror from smoke adhering or condensing to the cutting heads mirror surface ?.

[@brumbymg]

I believe Russ has made his answer apparent in other videos where he mentions (on several occasions) having GOOD air flow ACROSS the workpiece (from front to back). You want to get the smoke out of the work area before it even has a chance to rise up to that mirror.

[@petersippel8819]

Hi Russ. Thanks for all your brilliant videos, which are really accurate and helpful. I have never understood why I couldn't align my china blue but now I know. I see this video is 2 years old and I'm wondering where I can get the material you have developed. I have not found any information, where I can buy these and don't even know if you sell those parts at all. I'm completely frustrated with my laser, as it does cut but not always and this is why I need to fix this problem. Would be glad to hear from you 🙂

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Peter I am a kindred sprit when it comes to frustration with Chinese design engineering and I have experienced the sortt of problems you experience. Fortunately a lifetime in engineering and design has allowed me to decode the problems that were built into the machines by those cunning Far Eastern guys to confuse us. You can contact me with this private message form and I will reply forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg Best wishes Russ

[@RadoPa]

Hi Russ, I've been following you and your edu videos from the beginning (at first just from pure enjoinment of the technology knowledge). You have come a huge way. I'm just upgrading my home-toy machine and would like to include your upgrades. Would it be possible to get your designs? Did you actually consider to upload them somewhere public?

[@tonygomez8350]

Thank you very much for your guidance, where I can get the target holder for the mirror and when this par will be available

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Tony If you add your your disguised email address to another comment I will send you the data pack and then delete your comment. Best wishes Russ

[@joeblogs4146]

Brilliant video like always! 👍

[@ssidekick]

Is the lightweight head still something you have available or is that gone by now? I’ve tried the “comment with e-mail” a couple times and they got deleted, but I haven’t received any communication. It’s absolutely ok if this is no longer available, I don’t mean to bother, just looking for an answer either way. Love your videos and I get excited every time a new video shows up!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Yes, You ube has algorithms that detect anything that looks similat to an email address. At present they are noy all that clever so it is easy to fool them with a couple of sentences like this. Start with john and the add a dot followed by smith If you add the normal and symbol plus g======mail with a dot and a com. That seems to work at present. Yes I still supply parts and will send you a data pack and also delete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@ssidekick]

@@SarbarMultimedia ok perfect. Yeah I probably didn’t go far enough with the obfuscation. The first part is the letters RSFX and after that the word online. Same popular provider that you used in your example with the big G. Thank you!

[@xpozec]

Wow, just wow, so much science, and none of the guess work, learning lasering like this, makes the subject fun. I am also interested in data pack, xpozecatgmaildotcom, thank you in advanced

[@mh-laser2886]

Hi, thanks for all the nice KZbin episodes. a small question, where can I buy the bracket and head?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Magnus Add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send you a data pack. I am not home for another hour or two and then I will start processing my emails. Best wishes Russ

[@denniskramer9788]

I learned that the path planning portion of the CNC software on my plasma cutter from China has parameters coded that the user cannot change for acccel and decel . particularly for corners/ change of direction. If that's true of ur machine and the software remains tuned to the original mass then somehow it's a sw not a hardware solution to seek out. For instance Linuxcnc has parameters the user can tune.

[@tomseibelts]

Russ, Great video as always. Can I send another comment in hopes to purchase a few items from you. My red and black machine doesn't have much adjustment to catch the beam. How do you prefer to be contacted? Thanks.

[@tomseibelts]

tomseibelathotmaildotcom

[@LightCraftStudio]

Russ Thank you for your videos! I just got a 4040 Laser Cutter and seeing your videos I was wondering if you may have an idea on how to solve my problem. Its something that is supposed to be physically impossible yet here I am. I followed all the alignment steps and the Y and X(at the middle of Y) hit the same point on the mirrors. meaning that it should be aligned. however placing the X mirror at its maximum, then moving the Y from Min, fire, to Max, fire. I get two dots that are above each other about 2.5mm apart. I have done the calibration of the mirrors about 30 times by now and nothing. I have done my research and the only thing i found close to what I'm facing is someone who mentioned their k40 was warped, however my machine has a C channel steel square in its base that the rails mount to directly and thus I can't exactly bend that to fix it as its rock solid. Now here's the kicker, I loosened the rods in their mounts (this is the Y part of the gantry) and rotated them in place by about 90 degrees. I also used a laser level to level the machine as a whole, then leveled the C square inside using shims. and the problem is almost gone. I have gotten to about 0.3mm apart between the dots at Max and Min beam travel. However tightening down the base ruins everything again. Ive been loosing my mind for the past 3 days trying to figure this out and went through a whole roll of painters tape. I am trying to narrow down if my base is in fact warped or if the Y guide rods are bent. have you ever had this issue and if so how did you solve it? Thank you again for these videos, they have been a savior with my machine!

[@russsadler3471]

Hi What you are experiencing is the classic "4th corner problem" You have sufficient engineering ability to realize that such a small rigid frame cannot be that far out. However even if your fame was twisted and bent would it cause the problem you see? The #2 mirror is attached to one end of a stiff beam. if the Y rail at the other end is skewed 2mm uphill at the back of the machine , logically step through what will happen. The other end of the STIFF gantry will rise by 2mm and in doing so it will tip the gantry AND #2 mirror so there will be no RELATIVE change to the strike position for your beam on mirror 3 So using that logic it matters little about machine levels/distortion etc etc. This is the myth that exists around this problem and I have seen people packing up the bearing rails 2 or 3mm to fix the problem (unsuccessfully, I might add), The cause of the problem is so simple and obvious that you will berate yourself for not seeing the elephant in the room. I have described how mirror 2 and the head are mechanically aligned to each other via a stiff beam so how is it possible for the beam to change position? It is being REFLECTED to a different position because the #2 mirror holder bracket is being distorted VERY SLIGHTLY by some external force. and reflecting the beam to a different position. That force is different between front and rear of the Y axis. You have a very small machine thus your error is small. On 900 and 1300mm wide machines you can see 7 or 8mm errors. I cannot tell you how to fix your problem because every machine will be different but my best guess is to unscrew the Y axis cable chain from the gantry because this is one common causes. Your mirror 2 mounting bracket may also be very flimsy. If that does not fix your problem you will have to become an engineering Sherlock Holmes. Sorry I can't actually fix your problem but now you are looking in the right place you should be able to devise a solution Best wishes Russ

[@LightCraftStudio]

@@russsadler3471 Hi Russ, Thank you for replying and giving some great insight. Something you said about the beam being stiff. Well I think I found a potential problem. The beam is made of aluminum with a rail attached on top. Thus compared to the steel base and steel rods it is the weakest link The rods might be not be fully parallel causing the beam to ever so slightly flex. This explains why the dot moves slightly up relative to where the distance between rods gets shorter (so the beam bows upward causing the dot to move up. And the opposite is true at the back where the rods are further apart causing the beam to flex down and thus the laser dot moves down. Im going to try and solve this issue and if it works ill document it for the other poor souls dealing with this issue. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction!

[@turboflush]

Ok . that nozzle zapper.. I am making one. I have been doing it the hard way. I need some plastics :) I am guessing RDworks is easier to design in? Than Lightburn?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

That 5 hole device can be made from MDF or plywood. I just happen to have a lot of acrylic pulled from the scrap bin of a local plastics supplier. If you align your beam correctly throughthe axis of the lens tube, this tool is just a final check It should already be on centre. RDWorks has lots of tool that makes it look like a piece of design software but its not. Yes you can draw simple shapes and do a few simple modifications to graphics but it is an INTERFACE program that allows you to IMPORT your designs for proper cad ar graphics software. It is a package that takes your design and once you have set parameters for cutting or engraving, it converts your creation into a machine code file and send it to the laser machine. LIghtburn does exactly the same BUT it has many more graphic manipulation toosl and is getting closer to a design package . You can download a full version as a 30 day trial to see if you like it. Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

@@SarbarMultimedia i use Lightburn. I avoided rdworks because i had already started with Lightburn on diode laser. I find building or modifying designs a little painful. What are you designing in?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@turboflush Hi Allmy mechanical design work is done with 2D CAD. I'm using a package I that is part of a CAD?CAM system I used to used when I was running two 3kw metal cutting lasers as part of a metalworking business. Any "D cad package will work, there are several really free ones you can download. For graphics I use Photoshop and Illustrator but again for free you can get a photoshop/illustrator clone called GIMP. Best wishes Russ

[@stmmwoodshop8104]

Hello Russ, I love your channel and appreciate all your work. Could I get the design for the laser tube mount? Thank you so much in advance.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Yes you can have a whole data pack which has all the designs in it. Th Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send you the files and also delete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@pinguinutkd]

I’ve got a problem with my laser (50w blue chines. ), is not cutting anymore , is like dosen’t have power anymore but its engraving very good. Im pretty sure is something from ruida controller , i tested with lightburn and RDworks and some issue. Can you please give me a hand with this ?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Dariescu Add your disguised email address to another comment and I will reply....andndelete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

Your glass holder automatically aligns it to the frame of the engraver which the x and y axis rails (should be) are aligned to. So step one. The machine i bought (used) thebrackets were stripped and one wrong nudge put this out of alignment. After i got the mirrors pointing.. I realized my flaw. Yes it still works but probably easier if the tube is frame alaigned.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I think you misunderstand. It does not matter how your tube is aligned in relation to X and Y axes. The only requirement is for the beam to be aimed at the cenre of mirror 1. Mirror 1 corrects any misaliggnment.. It makes life so much simpler if you have mirror 1 and the tube mounted together. The most important thing to learn about beam alignment is to keep getting the beammonto mirror centr and aligning the axis as TWO SEPERATE actions Align the beam to an axis and then find a mechanical way of moving the beam to the centre of the mirror. Once you have set alignment you must NOT adjust those screws. Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

@@SarbarMultimedia Hmm.. Ok.. Visualizing in my head. So even if the beam is reflecting off #1 not at a 90. Say 93deg.. #2 can still be set to align the beam with the y rail?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@turboflush Sorry, you are still misunderstanding the role of mirror 1. Mirror 1 is the vehicle for aligning the beam with the Y axis and Mirror 2 is used to align the beam to the X axis . Mirror 3 adjustst the bem through the Z axis.. Once you have aligned the ebam to the Y axis with mirror 1 you will certainly find that the beam does not hit the middle of mirror 2. WHAT THEN? . You MUST NOT make ant ajustment s to mirror 1 or you will destry the alignment you have jiust set.. You therefore have two choices Mechanically move mirror 2 so the the beam strikes the centre of the mirror OR move mirror 1 so that it reflects the beam onto mirror 2.. The problem with this second option is that if you move mirroe 1 then you will upset your alignment and have to do it again. That is why I have made the tube and mirror 1 into a single unit . By referencing the base against a soloid part of the machine I can move mirror 1 and the tube as one element and not change the alignment. It's not and easy subject to visualize , hence I describe in great deati all the set up steps in video 192. Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

Ok. I drew it out. Because my tube is set not parallel.. My #1 is not at 45 to the frame. It is splitting the larger than 90. The #1 mirror has to move closer to the laser ( center of machine left/right) to compensate. ( i think) Here i was thinking it was more important and it was just ignored in all these alignment videos on youtube. Still; when i get around to installing the new mount i will square it to the frame. Are you still sending out the specs to build the heads? I can have local metal shop cut it for me. I had to shim my current head because the mirror plate was sticking to the bracket. Turboflush at g mail. I have noticed what you show with the belt. I figured it was just a result of scanning the image. Only been lasering for 2 months. 20 days on co2. :d

[@turboflush]

@@SarbarMultimedia I think i said incorrect. #1 aligns to the y axis. Your all in one bracket makes it easier. Because it removes possibilty of twisting. The lazer. Aligning it with crooked laser is possible ( i did it) but adds a bit more work. Perhaps making the alignment more touchy. Not trying to argue. :) just trying to verbalize whats in my head. Hahaa

[@shaunawaalkens6361]

I need help 😫. My 50w laser engraver seems to be not finding the center of the table therefor my images are not being cut center! The best I can tell is it is going to center at 264mm x 114mm Can you tell me how to fix this?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Shauna This may require a few pictures to help you with this problem. If you add your disguised email address to another comment (johndotsmithatgeeeemaildotcom) I will answer and help you through your issue. I will also delete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@BlackJack-lz2tx]

Hi Russ, is there any chance I could buy some of these parts from you? I look forward to receive your reply. Thanks!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send you a data pack Best wishes Russ

[@GlenSuperDocMiller]

I believe I need this system for the front mounted rail. I'm in the usa

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Glen No problems. Can you add your disguised email to another comment please and I will send details.. Sadly, you tube will not publish comments with email addresses or even lightly disguised ones because they have algorithms to sniff these out. However they are not smart enough to decode things that are easy for the human brain,. So just use a sentence or two like this. Start with glen followed by a dot, miller will them follow plus the usual AT. I use G++m%%a il as my provider. That's easy for us!!! Best wishes Russ

[@AndyShrimpton-GaaTech]

another great video. Russ do you know if Cloud Ray are just going to sell your parts or a whole machine with them in?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Andy They are planning to sell a complete Russ Spec China blue machine (300x500) 70 watts, ready to run. No longer an Ebay DIY project. I am just experimenting with selling parts because many people will not want to buy a new machine . However I don't think the demand will be high enough for Cloudray to make pieces. Thus it's another millstone for me that gets in the way of playing with and learning about my machines. Best wishes Russ

[@andrzejkorzeniecki9469]

I would like thank you, I learned so many things and love to order your parts.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Andrzej Just add your disguised email address to another comment and I will send you a data pack I will also delete your comment Best wishes Russ

[@Перун-о1ь]

Russ did you manage to solve 4th Corner Puzzle?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Where did my answer get posted to? I answered this several hours ago. Ok let's try again. Yes, but every machine could be a different problem. There is no common cause except that mirror 2 mounting is being twisted slightly between the front and rear position, This causes the beam to deflect to different positions at mirror 3. I have seen people packing up rails and blocking up a corner of their machine to distort the frame. . This error is usually large, in the 4 to 8mm range. It would be obvious if the rails were skewed by that amount or the machine frame twisted..No it is always something about your specific machine design that is causing mirror 2 bracket to distort VERY slightly. I have pointed you to the real problem but you need your engineering detective hat on to track down the cause.. I'm sorry that's as helpful as I can be.. Now you need patience and good luck. Best wishes Russ

[@Перун-о1ь]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thx

[@vinylimagezsignsandgraphic2305]

I wanna buy. If you still have 1 available

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Just add your disguised email address as others have done and I will send you a data pack of drawings and prices. Thanks for your interest and enthusiasm. Best wishes Russ

[@GlenSuperDocMiller]

Yes sir. I'm a former. Gulfwardoc. at the same as you

[@HockeyPop29]

hi russ. i Tried to contAct you aBout getting help with a part 907 you might know @bout for my machine, Going MAd If i don't Locate one DOT. Can yOu help Me?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Thomas Brilliant cypher which I thought I had I decoded. Unfortunately my email to you bounced as undeliverable. I read the first part as tab907 is that correct or have I missed something.

[@GregerOlofsson]

Nice vid, as always!

[@tainoworks]

Another amazing discovery.. Thank you Russ... I'll send you my request to your email. Hector

[@hijamie32]

Hi Russ have sent you an email. Many Thanks Jamie

[@macswanton9622]

I'll bet they're all gone, and it's been all of two hours :o)

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Mac I'm not at home for a few more hours so I don't know the score. You can be sure that If I do run out of items I will find a way to restock with a larger batch within a couple of weeks. At present I am flying blind and have no idea what the demand will be, So If you are interested in the data pack (laser porn????) then nadd your disguised email address to another comment and I'll send you one. Best wishes Russ

[@leftblank]

SarbarMultimedia make sure to add some extra £ on for your troubles!

[@josepcallarisavendrell4335]

Thank you very much, it is little, I love to hear you although I do not understand anything  but seeing your drawings and gestures and a long etc. I am understanding you. I have a K40 and I'm making it a bigger 40x70 box. I'll give you my camouflaged email so that you can send me information about this project if you still have it available, the address is jpatanpichotmailcom. Greetings Josep from Barcelona Spain Muchas gracias es poco, me encanta oírte aunque no entiendo nada  pero viendo tus dibujos y gestos y un largo etc te voy entendiendo. Tengo una K40 y le estoy haciendo una caja más grande de 40x70. Te paso mi correo camuflado para que me envíes información de este proyecto si aún lo tienes disponible, la dirección es jpatanpichotmailcom. Saludos Josep desde Barcelona Spain

[@durasoft2010]

Hi Russ, Thanks for all the very useful information, advice and entertaining videos you have been sharing with your community. These Videos have helped me overcome issues and saved me great time in achieving the best I can get out my machine. But there's always room for improvements, hence I would be very much appreciated if you could please send me your file's regarding the Modifications shown in this Video. My address is tony-9367atlivedotcodotuk , Thanks in Advance Tony Looking forward to seeing more, keep up the great work and StaySafe Russ