Realistic DX-160 Weak Sensitivity First Repair Attempt

In this video I replace "RF Protection" Diodes as well as a resistor in an attempt to resurrect a DX-160 that has practically no sensitivity on Band E, and weak on the other bands.
Weak or Low sensitivity problem on Band E finally solved:
• Realistic DX-160 Weak/...

[@NSNorfolk]

Hi there! A DX-150 was my first SWL radio as a teenager and I loved it. Many hours in front of the dial listening to the many stations around the world! So, yous was broken but it looks like you fixed it. The diodes you used are probably just fine but if you want an "exact" fix, replace those diodes with 1N60 diodes. which I am 99% sure would be an exact replacement in that circuit. I have a DX-160 sitting out in my shop that I am going to re-cap. Plan to use Nichicon Gold series, audio caps for that job.. That, and a re-alignment and that rx will be back to as new again!

[@SWRadioConcepts]

Hi! I still have this radio and still do use it occasionally. I should probably do an update video on it at some point. I have gotten better at video production as you can see from my latest videos. Anyway, those, (I guess silicone) diodes you see here, purchased from Fry's (RIP) were installed, and everything seemed fine. However, I did ultimately order germanium diodes, and I'm pretty sure they were what the service manual called for (1N60 sounds familiar). I couldn't find the online order email from digikey or wherever I ordered them. There are germanium diodes installed in this radio now. It did bother me not having the exact replacements originally. It's kind of funny, I recently got married earlier this year, and the only thing I put on the wedding registry for myself was a signal generator - and I got it! So I'm planning on doing a realignment on this radio as well! Maybe I can get some tips from you about that. That is a project and I'm hesitant to break those carbon adjustments (I can remember what they are called at this point.) I have the proper non-conductive alignment tools. The only other problem with this radio is that the BFO drifts a bit. It calms down somewhat as the radio warms up. I replaced all the resistors in the BFO section with high tolerance (I believe 1%) resistors and that didn't seem to help. If you have any suggestions I'm open to them. It is a great radio and I'm really happy I found it late in the day at a hamfest all those years ago. It's in great shape and one of my prized radio possessions. Thanks for watching!

[@NSNorfolk]

@@SWRadioConcepts Drift can be isolated in a couple ways. I'd hit every polystyrene cap in the BFO circuit with freeze spray. Turn the BOF on and set it to a pitch of your choice; as long as you can hear it. Start hitting the polystyrene (clear but with aluminium visible inside) with a very small, well directed to only one cap at a time. When you hit the one going bad and becoming unstable, you'll hear it change pitch more than others. Or, "shot gun" it. Simply replace all the polystyrene caps in the circuit. Real common to loose those in the VCO of FM stereo receivers. All of a sudden, no more stereo sound and a check reveals that the VCO free run frequency is either very wrong or gone completely. 99.9% of the time, its the polystyrene cap in the VCO circuit.

[@extremeedison]

This Realistic DX-160 radio has a dissimilar metal problem on the tuning printed circuit board with the rivets that connect the top side printed circuit to the printed circuit on the bottom side of the PC board. Resoldering is not sufficient, the fix is to solder jumper wires on the top side of the board to replace the connection made by the printed circuit on the bottom side. Shining a bright light through the bottom of the board shows clearly where to solder the jumper wires on the top side. This is the RF amp and Local Oscillator circuit so it will require alignment. Operation without repair may be intermittent.

[@fransvanhelvoort1083]

These machines are fantastic. Did the mod and it give a much bigger signal on all bands. In the second edition of this beauty there is a resistor (R62, 33kOhm) in the first Bband transformer. remove that and you will hear much more on the B band. For the ant trimmer C there is a fixed Cap (C77 100pF). When you short this fixed cap, the antenna tuning will be more effective. Great receiver, I have a Kenwood QR666 and this bad boy is much better! I sold my Kenwood, yaeshu frg7700, my intermerc ham2, my realistic dx200 cause this is a better performer.

[@tubeDude48]

*1N60* Diodes are plentiful on Ebay!! A standard 5.1K will work fine. Plus an Ne-2 Neon Lamp across the 5.1K

[@mohinderkaur6671]

wont be due to diodes. just remove them to test. Likely due to alignment issue on Band E

[@Kennynva]

If you find and buy some older 60's transistor radios that are sold for parts, they will have the germanium transistors and some germanium diodes in them.. A germanium diode will have like a 0.250 to 0.300 volts on your meter diode checker, and show OL, or open the other way...when they are good.

[@markstump7079]

What Diodes did you get at the end?? Have a link?

[@frankartieta6752]

Seems to me a DX-160 was a good radio factory stock ! I would try to put it back as factory stock ! But that is just me :)

[@ozloon2000]

Shockley capacitors

[@billk5631]

Making me seasick

[@SWRadioConcepts]

Yeah sorry this was one of my very early attempt at videos. If you view my latest videos you'll find I invested in a tripod, better cameras, and editing efforts. Thanks for watching!

[@BillboardPenguin]

But, the crowd called out for more.

[@Markinpuff]

I have a part radio if your interested

[@Kennynva]

You have a first or second version of the dx-160??