Rear AC and Heat Bypass / Removal ~EASY~ (Express / Savana Van)

[@VanwithTim]

Here's a much clearer visual of the AC lines: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWHdqaqVlLV4nNE

[@miamiservicegarage3763]

the only simplest youtube video in the world... of how the work is done... excellent❤

[@chrisfreeman7890]

It is now my duty to be this happy while I'm working on my van

[@fotoigaist]

Tim this was the best how to on KZbin on rear ac removal. Thank you!

[@VanwithTim]

Thank you! Let me know if you have any other questions

[@OverlandOne]

Awesome, thank you very much. I just got a 1998 Dodge B1500 conversion van that has rear heat/ac. When I was under the van today, I saw those long coolant hoses running all the way back to the rear of the van, some of them rubbing on frame parts, and I thought this is just asking for trouble on the back country dirt roads. It would not take much to slice open one of those hoses and that would not be a good thing so, thanks again. I enjoy your videos as they are very helpful.

[@VanwithTim]

My mom had a 1999 Express van and the rear AC lines ended up rubbing through themselves in a similar fashion. Of course, not so bad to lose the AC vs losing your engine coolant! Thanks so much for watching and commenting! -Tim

[@chrisdock3116]

Just tried to remove my rear ac and was going at it from the top not knowing there was plumbing underneath. I was only two beers into it so I took a break and gave the process a “Goog.” Your video came up and explained everything! Thanks man!!

[@VanwithTim]

I wasted so much time trying to figure out what bolts I was missing / how to access the rear for removal before I just sawed the whole thing apart lol Glad it saved you from a little of that same headache!

[@GambinoRaleigh]

Telling the same story as Chris here. Thanks for the save

[@imagine9375]

My wife makes that same noise when she's out of money and peeping out my wallet.

[@JahzryAnn]

Gracias! I've been through tons of videos and they're all talking about doing these things after the fact. I really needed to see it happening. Wish me luck!

[@VanwithTim]

Your comment reminded me I had a quick follow up video to make! Here's a much clearer visual of the AC lines if needed. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWHdqaqVlLV4nNE Hope it helps! -Tim

[@MajorDan1138]

Hi Tim, wow! Why oh why? AC is a lifesaver here in TX, and I would have taken any extra parts you were discarding, just in case. I have a 2012 3500 15pax extended LT for my family, there is some wetness under the back carpet. I could find no info on rear drain, but here you are, saving the day! Just a little wetness in the rear carpet, will clear that soon thanks to you, helping to keep those kids of mine cool in my 'Heavy Chevy' Thanks! Have a great day!

[@VanwithTim]

There's still AC in the rear, it's just electric now and runs off my solar / battery bank! (The 6.0L uses 1/2 gal of gas per hour just idling and running the AC) Totally agree, 100% a necessity in Texas though. Stay cool! -Tim

[@berningsandwiches2662]

FYI if you put freon into the high side only it should be OK to flip the bottle.

[@Autocoolingsolutions]

Hey Tim great video. I checked the links. I just wanted to let you and your viewers know since it seems you can't get these specific ones on Amazon or Ebay anymore. There is a block off kit made by Auto Cooling Solutions, made in the USA, backed with a lifetime warranty and supports American jobs! If you're looking you can find our site easy! Thanks, feel free to delete this comment if your linked products become relevant again. Or if you're still doing the amazon affiliate stuff, our rear ac block off kits, line sets and more are also there. You could switch out those links for ones that are available!

[@VanwithTim]

Appreciate the comment! Swapped out the Amazon Affiliate link to your product. Curious (if you happen to know) - the line set claims to fit 2003 - 2014. Any idea what changed in 2015+ on the GM van AC system? Cheers! -Tim

[@Autocoolingsolutions]

@@VanwithTim Hi Tim, thanks for the link swap! As for the line sets on those vans, we don't make any line sets for the full size GM vans. Our block offs go to 2014 only because we haven't verified any years beyond 2014. It's not a model that we have had a lot of inquiry into and therefore it get's somewhat of a "back shelf" treatment in the priority list. However, because the body shape is not all that different and if OEM line sets are listing different from 14 to 15, it could be maybe different connections were used and or maybe a slightly different routing of the lines. That would be my best guess without actually knowing for sure.

[@VanwithTim]

@@Autocoolingsolutions That makes sense. If I'm ever at the salvage yard and see a 2015+ I'll break out the calipers and check it out. 2003 - 2022 GM vans seem to be around 85% the same. (95% on the exterior!) But you just never know what subtle changes happen under the hood and behind the dashboard. All the best! -Tim

[@Autocoolingsolutions]

@@VanwithTim Good idea. Sometimes they make the subtle changes just to make things incompatible with prior "era" models.

[@brucehalleran1149]

Update. The block heater mentioned below is apparently 1960's tech. I can not now find any comparable device that isn't electrically heated. The oil burners are little boilers, power hungry and 4 or 5 times the output we need. Tim is, near as i can tell, the only other person in the world that figured out that cars come with a power vent from the factory. And yet... Why is it that nobody else gets that vans may also come with the raw material of a complete house HVAC? Fan, complete dual duct system with grills, even a fitted evaporator for the mini split. I have not removed the factory AC yet, but hope to plumb a two season mini-split into the box w/wo the OE evaporator. What i have done is T into the OE coolant lines with a diesel burning engine block heater, and repowered the rear fan. Be aware that the 12v solar system pumps that seem like a perfect match typically can't take the temps coming out of the block heater, much less the engine. My years old tempory solution is plumbing the pump into the return line, and shutting a ball valve underneath before driving. This is holding, but i don't like the wearhering or the possibility of a leaking failure. It is quiet, uses a combined 40 watts, and makes too much heat at temps above freezing. Hence the continued interest in a mini-split with a thermostat. One can probably build a more compact HVAC than the factory, but it seems like a lot of effort for very little return. Insulate behind the OE headliner, keep that, the ducts, the lights, intercept fan and lights with house battery power, and you can call the ceiling good with nearly no cost in time and money. I think my biggest expense there was LED bulbs for the factory lights.

[@miketimmons4504]

Just what I needed to see. Thanks!

[@1Grizzman]

You had me when you asked us to guess the nut size 10mm or 13mm. You are like a damn wizard, there is no way you knew what size nut that was before hand as you never removed it before filming!!!! LOL Great video, everything went smooth as butter on the job today!

[@xlr8offroad]

Solid info for others.

[@shizzhizz1234]

Appreciate the video, very helpful.. i had a mishap with a subfloor screw and an unknown rear heating/cooling line (was leaking clearish oily fluid) 2014 econoline e350. You seem super knowledgeable and

[@shizzhizz1234]

If you have any ideas on my path fwd is really appreciate any help!

[@VanwithTim]

@@shizzhizz1234 I'm not familiar with the Ford vans unfortunately, but if your AC up front stopped working then it's definitely an AC line. (There should be block off kits for the ford vans much like the kit for my chevy van in the video) If it's a coolant line you could cut all the way through the metal line where it was punctured and clamp an appropriately sized rubber hose over the connection to repair the leak! And don't be afraid to give the fluid a quick smell. Coolant has a distinct sweet smell to it! -Tim

[@shizzhizz1234]

@@VanwithTim thanks for the tips my man, it ended up being a coolant liine and so a pretty easy fix after all my anxiety.. definitely considering cutting ac so i can delete the rear system to make room for activities! Appreciate ya

[@darvyowolf]

i would like to have seen the whole build ..your van looks nice...what did you do with the passenger windows?

[@williamlaskey9061]

Thanks for this it is very helpful

[@XroorX]

Great video. Were you losing small amounts of coolant in the radiator as an impetus for you to block rear ac? Having a similar issue with my Astro

[@VanwithTim]

Didn't have any coolant or refrigerant leaks, but needed to remove the unit for part of my campervan build. The rear heat / AC on your Astro will be separate systems - as in, if your engine coolant is leaking, it would not affect your AC refrigerant. Or if you were losing refrigerant, it would not affect your engine coolant. (Both sealed, separate systems)

[@joe226825]

Just finished watching the coolant short loop part and Rear heater core etc removal and was just what I was looking for. So thanks for the know-how.. 👍👍

[@VanwithTim]

Glad it helped! It certainly looks intimidating at first but overall is a pretty easy job

[@Synrgiii]

THANKS FOR THIS. CUT MY COOLANT LINE IN THE BACK AND DROVE 30 MILES HOME FROM THE CASCADES WITH A RADIATOR PUDDLE IN BACK.

[@VanwithTim]

Wow, glad you made it safe!

[@OffTheBeatenPath_]

I removed ALL of the AC lines under the van...Wow what a nasty job! Had to cut it into like 5 sections.

[@VanwithTim]

I was looking at that the other day - only way to get them out in one piece would be to remove the entire body from the frame lol

[@OffTheBeatenPath_]

@@VanwithTim yes, you would have to lift off the body

[@Tony-ec9nk]

Thanks for the video. Did you have to empty the a/c line before hand?

[@jamesspiers3000]

Tim, appreciate the video. This is exactly what I am trying to do. Remove that sucker all together :). Question... on other vids I have seen them add oil prior to adding Freon and add Freon to both high and low sides. What is the benefit of the oil, is it required and is it necessary to add Freon on both sides?

[@VanwithTim]

If you’re installing new AC components (namely the compressor) you’ll need to add oil, otherwise you really shouldn’t have to add any additional oil, as it should stay inside the system even after having the refrigerant evacuated. (Oil doesn’t condense, boil, or evaporate and it’s main purpose is to keep the AC compressor guys lubricated) Hope that helps a bit!

[@adamnilsen5715]

Thanks for this! My van seems to have heater hoses running inside the van, but it didn;t look to be the same in yours. If the hoses are internal, any idea if removal is a mess/ can I pull them out through the bottom after plugging the heater lines like you did in the bypass process?

[@VanwithTim]

Hey Adam, once you plug the heater lines underneath, you can snip and rip out the remaining hoses going back to your unit. It might be a good idea to put an empty container under one of the hoses you plan to remove, then blow air in the other side. This would push out most of the residual coolant into your container and help minimize any spillage 👍👍

[@adamnilsen5715]

@@VanwithTim Good call!! Just awaiting the AC plugs then I'm going for it!

[@VanwithTim]

@@adamnilsen5715 sweet! Keep up the research and you’ll be doing great no doubt 🍻

[@petermelnikov682]

Tim, is my understanding correct that the AC block off kit is not needed if you put the A/C replacement lines? I could not find the original comment from Dane.

[@brianbadenock5277]

Can you change the fan without disconnecting everything underneath and removing the freon? Maybe just remove the black box pulling straight up exposing the heater core and evaporator?

[@VanwithTim]

Hey Brian, just checked out GM's repair procedure. Unfortunately it calls for complete removal of the rear HVAC assembly (Draining coolant, recovering freon, etc) to access the blower motor. However, if you remove all the mounting nuts both below and above, you MIGHT be able to tilt the unit enough to access the three blower screws and slide the motor out. (Not totally sure though!) -Tim

[@mindinmotion1950]

My dude, U saved me hella ⏰ I've been stressing how to loop everything back. Ty for posting 🤙

[@kellysilver3979]

Hey Tim. We're part way through doing this and we're a little unsure on how we should cap off the pipes that are now open, coming up from underneath the van where the unit has been totally removed inside the van. What did you do here? Thanks!

[@VanwithTim]

Hi Kelly, for the now "dead" lines in the back, it depends on if you think you would ever re-install the rear HVAC. If you might re-install at some point, I would wrap a good quality electrical tape around the line ports. I knew I wasn't going to re-install my rear HVAC, so didn't worry about it. You can safely cut them off and permanently secure them out of the way. I used the newfound space to install a small but powerful diesel heater! kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqOWp2awgdWYj7M

[@kellysilver3979]

@@VanwithTim thanks Tim! I'll never be reinstalling the rear HVAC so we just need to cap off or seal the two pipes that come up through the floor. These could be simply cut and then zip tied to stop the rattling? Our front hearing isn't working since we removed the back system and capped off the the tubes with the kit, at the front

[@VanwithTim]

​@@kellysilver3979 Correct, the lines at the rear can be cut and tied out of the way. After capping the AC lines under the hood, the system will need to be re-charged with refrigerant. You mentioned your front heat is no longer working? With the key on and engine off, turn the fan speed to low. Then listen as you turn the temperature control from hot to cold and back to hot. You should hear an electric motor moving inside the dashboard (passenger side). Do you hear this noise? -Tim

[@kellysilver3979]

@@VanwithTim I can only hear the van come on and the direction change. To electrical sound at all when moving from cold to hot and back again. 😭

[@VanwithTim]

@@kellysilver3979 So it does not make the noise in this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqeYZouqnK-Zi6c If not, you may need to replace the temperature control actuator.

[@emericchouinard4064]

Hi Tim, I bypass the rear heater but did not do the AC. I was thinking doing it in the summer. Can I still unscrew and remove everything from the back safely ? Thanks you, Emeric.

[@VanwithTim]

Hi Emeric, unfortunately the rear AC still has pressurized refrigerant in it until it's evacuated through the front service ports. Once you remove the refrigerant you can safely remove unbolt and remove the entire rear assembly. However, if you do remove the rear assembly, I would fully recommend just going ahead and installing the AC block off plates in the engine compartment to keep any moisture or contaminants from entering the system. (All of this assuming your AC still works and has no leaks of course!)

[@emericchouinard4064]

Hi Tim, I just started working on it again and notice that the guy I bought the van from actually unscrew where you put the AC block. I would not have to do anything to add the AC block. I assume that the removed line is going to the back and that there is not any pressure getting back there ?

[@VanwithTim]

@@emericchouinard4064 Oh wow! Sounds like it might already be empty of refrigerant! If you have any open (disconnected) pipes then it's safe to assume the system is empty. For reference there are two lines going to the back. One you can see going to the left of the connection I'm unbolting @2:38 The second you can see in my hand along with the first line @3:50 If any one of those is disconnected, then it will be empty of refrigerant.

[@GMercer015]

Best video I've found on this topic! Quick question though, how'd you determine which pipe lead to the rear AC? Is it as easy as following the pipes to their destination or did you need to take it into a shop to determine which pipe lead to the front/back?

[@VanwithTim]

Just traced the pipes around! Just remember there will be one “large” and “small” pipe for the front and a set for the rear. Hope that helps!

[@GMercer015]

@@VanwithTim Thanks so much man! From your opinion do you think its worth going through the process to remove the rear AC?

[@VanwithTim]

@@GMercer015 no problem 👍 and it was worth it for us to have the extra space. We went solar for the AC. Running the van overnight for HVAC is fine on the engine, but is just asking for trouble from thieves.

[@substanceo9335]

What was the reason behind removing it?

[@GMercer015]

@@substanceo9335 I originally wanted more room for my van conversion, as it would have freed up a spot for a small drawer or storage area. I ended up keeping the AC though, it works pretty well and keeps the back chill during hot months 🤟

[@nickboyle3349]

Doorman heater core bypass

[@Mbell3568]

Hey I enjoyed your video. I have the same system. I tried to man handle it and pull it out. Which caused it to leak all the coolant on the rear of the vehicle. Any suggestions? I know you mentioned killing the o2. Could I have done that?

[@VanwithTim]

Hi Matt, I too originally tried yanking the whole assembly for quite some time haha. If you're looking to replace the rear heater core, chances are you just broke the inlet and outlet off your old heater core. No biggie as the new unit will take care of those ports. If you want to remove the rear heat altogether, just get a short piece of heater hose and loop the lines like I did @9:50. You'll lose the residual coolant running through the lines back to your heater core, but the engine and front heat will be tip-top again. Hope that helped! Don't hesitate to ask for clarification! -Tim

[@claudiamontes5337]

I want to keep front heater/cooler but I want to take out the back one for my conversion. How I do this?

[@VanwithTim]

Once you bypass the rear AC and heater core (0:39 - 13:52) watch from 13:53 to show how to physically remove the back HVAC unit.

[@j-k-j-mv6166]

Works better when the can is upside down 😉 shake the can a good 30secs before adding it worked for me js

[@VanwithTim]

Turning the can upside down allows the liquid refrigerant to be sucked into the system. Probably fine on the van as the fill port is on the dryer. However I also owned a 2000 Durango which had its fill port directly above the compressor. Filling that with the can upside down would introduce the liquid refrigerant directly to the compressor. Liquids don't compress. There are many tales of compressors dying from valve failure after a DIY fill job where liquid refrigerant was introduced by holding the can upside down. A safe trick is to put the can into boiling water or use a heating pad around the can while refilling. This helps evaporate the liquid r134a into a gas quicker. (I usually hold the can near a heat source in the engine bay while refilling) I'm no HVAC expert, just some weird knowledge I've picked up along the way! Cheers! -Tim

[@Jordan_Makes]

You sound like Owin Wilson in this video

[@jameskringlee8974]

hot tap water works to heat the can - boiling water?

[@VanwithTim]

Both should work fine, the evaporation of the r134a gas from the can to the vehicles system is actively chilling the water. If you just set the can in boiling water without releasing the pressure into the vehicles refrigerant system you might over-pressurize the can though.

[@grandpaseed]

thanks

[@sheetschandler]

After deleting rear ac and heat unit in my Chevy express my heat no longer works. Any suggestions to begin trouble shooting? I refilled coolant, spliced rear coolant hose with little kinking. Thanks

[@VanwithTim]

Have you driven the van around since? Sometimes the engine needs to be run at a 2,500rpm+ speed for the water pump to push out any air bubbles. Is coolant full in the radiator and coolant reservoir? Let me know! -Tim

[@jcortes3930]

Freon is 4.88 per 12oz

[@Ash91719]

Hey Tim, I’m trying to do a rear ac removal on my 1997 Chevy express conversion van, but it looks a bit different… can you point me in the direction of the rear ac hose that I should block off? I’m unfamiliar with its ac system

[@VanwithTim]

Ahhh… unfortunately the 96-2002 vans have a totally different design for the rear AC (my parents had a 1999 with rear AC issues) I’m not positive on those line sizes / block off locations. However don’t lose hope. It will take a little time but you’ll need to trace the two lines from the rear AC evaporator back to the front. Find a spot they bolt together / can be disconnected from the front, then measure the line diameter. Hopefully you can find suitable block offs online somewhere (if not, Dorman Products makes some universal “AC compression fittings” to block the lines.)

[@Ash91719]

@@VanwithTim thanks man, I just did it today, and all went well! You’ve definitely earned my sub!

[@VanwithTim]

@@Ash91719 glad it worked out!

[@joemerica1743]

@@Ash91719 please, god, have photos that you can share haha

[@graywolf2694]

As a person who does refrigeration, this was brutal

[@VanwithTim]

Oh man... If you saw the setup 12 years ago on my high-school car you would probably vomit. Oops! Sorry!

[@slippy3293]

Hey- thanks for posting- I need to do this and am (slightly) less intimidated. quick q- i noticed you had those long seat rails. Did you remove or leave in before putting in flooring?

[@VanwithTim]

Hey slippy, left the rails in and insulated the floor all the way up to be level with them. There’s some early pics on my old Instagram: instagram.com/van_with_tim/

[@chrisreed26]

Why would a person want to remove a very useful system? It does not take up a ton of space at all and here in FL we LOVE A/C!! I have no issue idling my van all night to stay cool or warm! These Ford engines in these vans were made to be used and idle DAYS at a time in the commercial world such as ambulance and police/fire..Now I did not watch the whole video to see why you did remove your rear HVAC so maybe you had a good reason but many would LOVE to have the rear HVAC! Even my old 83 Bluebird Wanderlodge

[@VanwithTim]

We went with an electric AC system (runs off the solar / battery bank). There are some neighborhoods we’ve stayed near that parked and running vehicles get stolen pretty quickly. You’re right that the modern engines are more than capable of idling 24/7 without issue though. I actually just installed a water heater like your Bluebird has in a Promaster van. Really slick design. My old neighbor had a Wanderlodge. Beautiful machines!

[@chrisreed26]

@@VanwithTim Very true! LIke I may have said in my other comments I still don't see why you only have 84 subs when you have better content on van builds than anyone else! Actual usable ideas and not showing some idiot with ratty hair eating avocado toast!! haha Sorry I'm blunt!! It's true..you should have more subs!! Great content and build ideas!

[@andrem5996]

Does this method keep the AC in the front but shut off the one in the rear?

[@VanwithTim]

Yes. Front AC stays functional 👍

[@Reesy257]

Hey Tim, Just to clarify, you did or did not have the AC system discharged prior? This is what my mechanic friends said would need to be done by a certified mechanic instead of on my own and thus the one thing holding me back from starting this little project. Great video by the way.

[@VanwithTim]

Hey Alex, you should get the system discharged before hand. Really to do it 100% legally / properly you’d need thousands of dollars in machinery for the AC bypass. HOWEVER there are plenty of back-yard mechanics that perform successful AC service without “properly” discharging the Freon as well.

[@Rayray_unicornplayz567]

Did it have a freon leak??

[@VanwithTim]

Still worked great, but needed room for the campervan build. Added in a solar powered AC and diesel powered heat. Idling the van (6.0L engine size) consumes 0.5 gallons per hour (1.9 liters) costing around $2.25USD per hour to have the heat or AC on. Not great for overnight camping.

[@thisguy2588]

How did you plan the hole left from the unit? Cause idk how to weld so idk how i can properly cover it.

[@VanwithTim]

No welding abilities here either. It's been a long time, but I think I just cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol then laid down quality foil ducting tape. Then I laid a large silicone bead all around the area and stuck down my foam board insulation. No issues after two years. Hope that helps! -Tim

[@thisguy2588]

@@VanwithTim thank you so much!! Will definitely be doing the same 🤙🏾🤙🏾

[@estellecollafarina9930]

My 98 Chevy express does not look like this in the front..

[@2marmosetsautourdumonde738]

Hi Tim, what happen if you don't disconnect rear AC and fluid is leaking at the back ? will the all AC system be down ? I probably did a mistake and lot of fluid is leaking at the back AC. Thanks

[@VanwithTim]

If there’s a LOT of fluid (more than a few oz / mL), you might want to smell the fluid and make sure it’s not engine coolant. (You can compare the smell of the leaking fluid with the smell of the coolant reservoir under the hood) If it’s engine coolant, the leak is coming from the rear heater core. That leak should be taken care of as it could drain your engine of coolant and overheat.

[@2marmosetsautourdumonde738]

@@VanwithTim well that’s exactly what happened.. is that a big thing to repair this heater core ?

[@2marmosetsautourdumonde738]

@@VanwithTim does your system avoid coolant to go to the rear AC or heater core ?

[@VanwithTim]

@@2marmosetsautourdumonde738 you can bypass the leaky rear heater core by following steps starting @9:44 You will only need a small section of rubber hose. If you want to repair the rear heat instead of bypassing it, you will need to remove the whole rear HVAC system by disconnecting the rear AC and heater lines, unbolting it from beneath the van, then disassembling the unit to remove and replace the heater core.

[@2marmosetsautourdumonde738]

@@VanwithTim thank you I will bypass it. The ac block off kit is mandatory to make all those f this work. Right ?

[@AstroVanTribe]

Anyone know if the AC block-off kit will work for the Astro Van?

[@melissamorales1739]

If you go on Amazon it will let you put in your vehicle and you can search ac block kit and it will bring up parts specific to your vehicle!

[@AutoMotivate]

@@melissamorales1739 They only have bolts, which i bought off eBay and did not fit.

[@posplaytime801]

Hey Tim, what did you do with the coolant lines?

[@VanwithTim]

Check out @9:44 I just looped them together with a short piece of hose, effectively bypassing the rear heater core. -Tim

[@posplaytime801]

Thanks man!!!

[@jameswallace1940]

Is this applicable to the G-series vans? Does this part work for a '92 G20?

[@VanwithTim]

Sorry James, I know the procedure and line locations are different on the 2002 and previous models. Not sure if the AC block offs would fit or not. It's a shame they make the kits so hard to search for. Took me forever to find this one for my van.

[@amale4202]

Great video...you're a handy guy! Maybe a dumb question, but how did you get away with not first draining your cooling system? With those hoses being at such a low point on the vehicle, I would've thought your all your coolant would have leaked out. BTW, your van sure appears to be in good shape for an 05 with 200k. The previous owner must have really looked after it.

[@VanwithTim]

Thank you! I was actually fully expecting all the coolant to drain out when I removed the hose so it was a pleasant surprise when it was just a drizzle. I think I remember seeing an actuator on one of the rear heater lines. Totally unsure how it’s controlled but guess I got lucky! The van definitely had a lot of leaks and eventually needed a new transmission, but the engine is strong and there’s no rust! 🙌

[@amale4202]

@@VanwithTimI was fully expecting a waterfall too when you were pulling that first hose off. There must be some sort of actuator as a fail safe in case a rear coolant hose fails. Would you mind telling me in roughly what area of the Cali dessert that your previous house resided? I'm a retired Canadian looking to move to the U.S. SW...your house looked like the kind of place I'd like to go. You must have had some mixed feelings about leaving the area...it looked beautiful, albeit a little more needy and expensive than an 05 GMC home on wheels lol. I really admire your priorities for leaving the rat race at such a young age! Really good for you two. If you're looking for an older movie that might bring you guys some laughs about your current gypsy style existence, watch Lost in America, with Albert Brooks, circa 1985. Guaranteed you'll get some laughs! Thanks for responding!

[@VanwithTim]

@@amale4202 The American southwest is definitely beautiful! The town was Phelan (pronounced Fee-Len), and most properties are 2+ acres (8,100sq meters) But also check out Lucerne Valley for the spaced-out desert vibe. Far enough away from civilization for peace, close enough for grocery runs! Will have to check out that movie too 👍👍

[@amale4202]

@@VanwithTim thanks again for responding! I'm gonna have to jump on Zillow to see what's available in those areas. Not to beat the movie thing to death, but the basic storyline is a highly paid advertising sales exec and his wife decide to leave the rat race at a fairly young age to basically spend the rest of their lifes travelling the U.S., and hilarity ensues. After hearing your story, the movie came to mind, even though I hadn't seen it for probably 30 years. Worth checking out. Happy travels!

[@GuestU2]

Why not just cap-off at front radiator?

[@VanwithTim]

I think the heater hoses come directly off of the water pump on the 4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines Then tee off to go to the front heater core and the rear heater core. Capping it off at the tee would work just as well, but I didn't spend much time searching under the hood for the hose tees. Figured the heater hose loop would work just as well for a little less labor. Cheers! -Tim

[@EyeGore22]

So I did this now my engine is overheating. I lost alot of coolant and I replaced it. But still over heating.

[@EyeGore22]

Opened up the radiator cap. Heard some gurgling, working fine now!

[@VanwithTim]

Sorry for the late reply! Really glad it was an easy fix. All the best! -Tim

[@obijuankenobi420]

Blake Anderson cut his hair ?????

[@VanwithTim]

:0 🤫

[@Horatio1886build]

Maybe if you live up north you would want to do this. For me this would be the dumbest alteration ever traveling and working all over the country from home state MD ( humid and hot in August) and trips to Florida! But for some yea maybe but my system really does not take up much usuable space in my 15 passenger 2002 chevy Express van . with ( tinted thank god )windows. But thanks anyway.🤤

[@AutoMotivate]

I concur. I do not like AutoZone

[@GregoryJohnston77]

Has anyone else had a hard time find rear lines to fix them instead of blocking them off? 2000 savana 1500 van

[@VanwithTim]

Ahh. My mom had a 1999 Express 1500. Michigan van - lots of rust and corrosion. The rear AC lines corroded through at one of the frame rail mounts. Never ended up fixing it, but I was ready to pull the trigger on these AC compression fittings. amzn.to/3RWkkl5 They're suspiciously well reviewed. The only challenge is finding the leak, hoping it's on a straight section of line, then making sure you have the right size fitting. Would be curious if you end up giving it a go! I'd love to hear some feedback on them from a Savana / Express owner.

[@GregoryJohnston77]

Hey thanks for the link and reply, I'll order them give them a shot and update you when they arrive. If they don't work I think I'm gonna try the resrac lines for the Yukon I see alot of them online, I just dont understand for the life of me why I can't find rear ac lines for this thing. I picked this van up for $500 it's a MINT no rust southern van, only issue was the ac leak and it needed a egr the old one couldn't be cleaned it was shot.

[@VanwithTim]

@@GregoryJohnston77 Woah! That's a STEAL for $500! Have you traced down the leak location? Hopefully it's easily accessible. That's super strange it has a leak at all being a southern van!

[@dougschwind3652]

So many issues with this.

[@VanwithTim]

Tips to improve?

[@dougschwind3652]

@@VanwithTim Sure. Just because a systems been evacuated doesn't mean there's no pressure. Pressure inside a closed system is based upon ambient temperature, meaning minutes after evacuated, the system will start rebuilding pressure. A 90 degree day could mean 90PSI in the system. A/C oil is a hazardous chemical, carcinogen, and also causes eye irritations and should be handled only by experienced people rather than the beer drinking backyard mechanic. On every A/C part, tool, can of oil, or refrigerant there are warnings about the dangers of working on A/C systems and recommendations to only have certified technicians repair the system. As far as vacuuming the system after repair, the point of it is not to remove just the air, but to remove any moisture. That can't be done at 15". At sea level, a system needs to be pulled down to 27" for 30 mins for proper decontamination. Lastly, proper A/C oil level is important. Elimination of rear A/C leaves the person unaware of how much oil is in the front system. Too much oil causes incorrect system pressures which leads to poor cooling, and too little causes stress on moving parts and also poor cooling as the oil is what carries the refrigerant through the system. The only proper way to determine oil level is to manually drain the system and refill it. I wouldn't be surprised that on a hot day your output temperature is over 50 degrees. I'd also be concerned about early compressor failure. At least add a warning.

[@VanwithTim]

@@dougschwind3652 Much appreciated and agreed on all points. Truly the charge should be weighed in as any partial restrictions and ambient temperature fluctuations will throw off the suction PSI readings which the DIY can taps rely on. I finally purchased an actual vacuum pump last year. As you mentioned that little hand pump isn't going to boil off any moisture in the system unless you're at an ungodly altitude haha. Trusting a DIY'er to properly drain and fill with the correct oil in the correct amount is a big ask. Especially with the different oils and more importantly their solubility in the refrigerant used. (R12 systems with their mineral oil vs r134a PAG oil comes to mind) That said, I've seen automotive compressors "semi-permanently" lubricated with grease and re-purposed into belt driven air compressors. (Super cool projects!) But the longevity of such a system would never be the same as a properly oiled, closed loop AC system. Thanks again for reminding me of this old video floating around. I'll add some warnings in the description! -Tim

[@joe226825]

That girl did a bad job filming. Too much jumping around and getting shots of you instead of the connections the parts and the tools. Do another video explaining what the proper procedures are showing slowly the connections and no shots of you. Watch Chris Fix Videos to see how it should be done.

[@JossyTravels]

Luckily he keeps me around for my looks & not my camera skills ;)

[@VanwithTim]

:0

[@amale4202]

I thought "that girl" did just fine.