Rear anti roll link replaced on peugeot 406

[@gordonsage9359]

Another useful piece from Gordon. One additional point I can now make is that getting molegrips onto the bottom joint is a lot easier if you loosen and remove the shock absorber from its bottom mounting.

[@TheMitnella]

HI Gordon - you fixed my window switch on my old 406, and now I'm on to rear anti roll links having just done the fronts. Thank you for such a useful video - it really has given me a steer!

[@marek9135]

Thank you for this video! Today I successfully changed these anti roll links on my "new" Peugeot 406 Break. I would never make it without your advices and without wise grips! I didn´t know, that this tool even exist! Now it´s time to change rear tracking control arms :-)

[@bunnybr]

Glad to hear the video helped.

[@bestbuildpc]

Method numer 4 worked for me yesterday. I just did it and it was pretty difficult. 2 hours of my time. I did cut the rubber part so I could hold it very tight. Thanks for ur efforts. I didn't have to use any iron bar to put it out. I just use the lift to put it up syncro with the hole and it went really easy.

[@Theskullcollector1]

love your video, much better then someone typing what you need to know over the video I find you telling as you go much easier to follow, keep up the good work.

[@Cowboyfirefly]

It's always handy to have a video on top of the Haynes manual, I'll be doing my dads car this weekend! Nearly forgot the copper grease!

[@richardjagger6920]

You are most helpful and explain clearly, thanks.

[@vytasstys6986]

This video is very welcome because it shows all the possible consequences

[@johnthomson843]

Just done the front drop links on an old Citroen C5 Mk1. Tried all those methods but the nut had jammed onto the old rusted thread of the ball joint that everything was just chewing up. The final removal method was one you didn't mention.... out came the grinder! Wouldn't have been easy to use a grinder on the drop link you've just replaced.

[@cardinalsin6313]

I did that on the left hand side when I did that but only goes for the top nut on this model

[@AbdelwahidSabri-2024]

Good work and very high workmanship. My observation is that you do not use a dynamometric key when closing the two nuts, for a wonderful and final lock.

[@bunnybr]

I very rarely find that the nuts don't fully tighten up when fitting a new link. The only exception is when reusing a used one where the ball and socket are a little looser and need to be held. I learn a lot from the feed back. Thanks for your comments.

[@AbdelwahidSabri-2024]

@@bunnybr I am very grateful to you for accepting my simple comment, but it has a greater impact. I learned from the ancient Mechanists to use a dynamometer key to press the nuts that have to do with either the engine or the chassis of the car, because Thitng is the step that must be relied upon.

[@cardinalsin6313]

I just read on the Honest John site that you can lock the drop link ball joint shaft by jacking the suspension up and putting it under load. I will try that method when I do mine (same side) this week

[@cmsinx]

Super video thank you. My 'shed' rolls on!

[@georgedebruyns3805]

Thank you I will now attempt replace mine thanks again.

[@alex-rx2vu]

well done, thanks for sharing

[@bestbuildpc]

I bought 2 of them and I replaced them but unfortunately they broke so I bought a better quality made of steel. I wonder why they made it so weak?

[@totof381]

Hello ! Il ne faut oas attendre que des pieces cassent pour faire des nettoyages de boulons ou d'autres pieces qui ont tendances à rouiller... Je possede une 406 hdi 110 de 2002 et en dessous rien est rouillé car je nettoie et passe de la peinture Legé histoire que rien ne rouille 😉

[@sdfsdf23232dsfsdf]

My Australian based 406 one came right off. That UK climate certainly doesn’t help

[@ibrahimsharifishaq8033]

Hello, nice and experience work.

[@salambek1973]

Thank you very much Просто супер

[@richardjagger6920]

your a star mate

[@zanetahunter]

Lord, now you should replace it and saved the Stabilizer bars

[@anthozgr4064]

Pas besoin de démonter l'étrier il suffit de couper l'ancienne biellette avec un burin plat ou tournevis puis le bloquer avec une pince étau pour pour le dévisser

[@bunnybr]

Merci pour votre conseil. Je vais l'essayer la prochaine fois que je ferai ce travail.

[@anthozgr4064]

@@bunnybr de rien pour celles en plastique un bon burin plat coupant ou un tournevis. Moi je coupe le caoutchouc 4 ou 5 coup de marteaux et ça ce déboite . Pour éviter trop de démontage

[@sandiwilkins7958]

Excellent

[@Carnator49]

Bonjour Gordon i not verry speak England but thank for your vidéo (sorry for ortograph) :)

[@svetoslavtodorov7290]

thanks good vid

[@alfaromeo166m]

Thanks !!!

[@mikomikojet5248]

thanks !! : )

[@aleksaleksi3843]

Metod numbar 5 cutting 😁😋🤔

[@bestbuildpc]

I hate this rear anti roll bars. The engineer who made this was not very smart at all. I would make a better conection so it can be remove easy. I've got the same trouble but I used an old school method.

[@Ppp-kk6hw]

I had to grind mine off