Rebuilding Industrial 2 stage Air compressor

[@philgarbarini9645]

I enjoy the videos but I also enjoy all your responses to the comments. Thanks for taking the time to do both.

[@bcbloc02]

No problem, the comments are very interesting and insightful.

[@rayeddy528]

Keep smiling Brian!!!!! You do great work! Be safe and God bless you!!!!!

[@ZPositive]

Abom79 and Tom Lipton references in the video, and MrPete reference in the comments? You are a real student of KZbin, while being an authority at the same time. Thanks for all the great content!

[@ShadonHKW]

Not too bad for a 50 year old pump, the dip and splash oiling needs non detergent oil (if you didnt already know) for 2 reasons, the oil will get whipped into a froth with detergents, also with the lack of an oil filter on this system, you don't want dirt to be suspended as it would with detergents, non detergent allows dirt to settle to the bottom out of harms way. ATB Stan Z.

[@OldSkoolF]

Non Detergent lets any particles drop out, no filter... Detergent oil keeps everything suspended, supposed to be used in conjunction with a filter... It Won't froth, that was an issue in the 70s & 80s when they were using paraffin in the blends.

[@normanreid2944]

Thanks for the video. It is too bad that the condition of the compressor is a bit worse than you expected. The good thing is that us viewers get to see the teardown and rebuild. I know you lead a busy life and really did not need the extra work but she will be jewel for the shop when you get done with the rebuild.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

I bet that will be a nice compressor when you get done Brian , Thumbs up man..

[@richkellow1535]

I certainly will look forward to this restoration as it continues, thank you for taking the time to edit and post.

[@charlescompton4495]

Hey, it's an air compressor. So hope you can find the parts and we can see it go back together. When I was at home we hardly ever bought anything new. Dad taught us to overhaul just about everything. That's a good background as far as I am concerned. Greg

[@bcbloc02]

If it needs fixing just fix it right? That is how I operate not throw away.

[@1musicsearcher]

I have the 1/2 size version of your compressor. It's dated 1959. I rebuilt mine a few years ago. It just jugs along and is very quiet.

[@bcbloc02]

I hope mine is more quiet when I get it back together.

[@ecrusch]

That tear down was well worth the effort Brian. You should have no trouble getting it purring like new again. (A nice re-paint job would look pretty cool too.) Good luck with that piston. If I hear of one, I'll let you know.

[@jeremiahlandin2978]

Brian, a tip for helping get the compressor back together easier is to add a lead in or chamfer to the bottom of the cylinders. Devilbiss recommends this when you rebuild them to help the rings enter the bore.

[@bcbloc02]

Thanks for the tip!

[@j3o5h8n5j5a3y8]

Those old iron compressors are great. Too bad the last owner didn't maintain it. It should last for years and years now.

[@63256325N]

IF those barrels are any indication, I'd be a bit worried about the tank and what the inside of it looks like. I'd do some inspecting of it before I went any further. Thanks for the video.

[@jh1867]

Great videos. Always waiting for the next one. Really enjoy them and learn a lot from them. 👍🏼👍🏼

[@jimzivny1554]

She's in good shape considering a lack of maintenance. Considering how much crud us in the low side, while you're rebuilding you might want to soak the cooler in a bucket of vinegar or Evap-O-Rust to get all the loose crap out then blast it out with a pressure washer. It's cast iron, it'll tolerate it and possibly prevent future problems for you. Just an idea.

[@ypop417]

Once you are all done Brian that compressor will outlast you! If you are limited for space I would mount in the attic right above the man door with drops for water drain right by the door so when you leave you drain the tank of water and air! Just my 2 cents worth.

[@1947JustinCase]

I so enjoy your videos. Keep'em coming!

[@razorworks9942]

I see I'm not the only one that likes to tear things down to rebuild them... Nice job buddy!

[@bcbloc02]

Thanks Ray!

[@mikenixon9164]

Good video Brian keep them coming.

[@victoryfirst2878]

This unit was run without an air filter. That is obvious. And I have found that using Mobil One Car oil 10-40 really works well and keeps rust at bay. Also, the oil that gets by the rings prevents rust inside the tank. Worked for you for twenty year so hope that helps Sir. When you buy used you have to take it on the chin so to speak. Good day too!!!!

[@larrysperling8801]

those old lungs were built to last several lifetimes. but they can be very expensive to repair. i ran into a similar situation years ago . a friend of mine bought a 10hp unit ar an auction for his body shop. the pump was shot and would have taken about $1200 in parts to repair. a new pump was a crazy amount of money. i ended up buying two 7.5 hp shultz pumps t30 style from a local supplier for about the same money as the repair parts. made up a new base plate and put the motor between the two pumps. this also has the advantage of using the unit on one pump of you have a failure. this thing has been running in a three man body shop for five years now and i expect it to be there when he retires.good luck with your rebuild, done right your grand children will be using that comp.

[@tonybaggett1984]

Great job can't wait to see it finished. If anybody complains about using the surface plate for a workbench they should know that you bought it and can do whatever you want to with it. Seems like surface plate gurus can be a little bit of snobs when it comes using them. Guess they are for precision but you got to do what you got to do sometimes.

[@bcbloc02]

They are for precision but honestly I don't know how you are supposed to use one if you don't put stuff on it.........I didn't buy it to have a rock to look at.

[@tonybaggett1984]

Exactly. I guess according to certain surface plate connoisseurs your supposed to buy one to look at it, but don't dare put something on it! LOL

[@ericwolf5874]

It also isn't being used as a surface plate yet. It isn't like he just got it resurfaced to a AAAAAAAAA rating and was actively making rocket parts in his shop. Heck if he wanted to use it as an island in his kitchen... then whatever, it is his.

[@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop]

Glad you found the problem and also that the damage is repairable. You'll have an awesome old school compressor in new condition ready for another 50 years. A sheet of plywood over the granite will quiet the angry mob...😉

[@bcbloc02]

There is always an angry mob about something. lol At least after I fix it I will know what I have.

[@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop]

That's exactly why I go through all of my machines, Brian. Even the ones that seem to be ok, because I always find something, and some of them, as you know, can be catastrophic. Imagine running that cracked piston hard for a while....it looks like you caught it in time. I'm looking forward to the rest of this, as I've never rebuilt a compressor, and need to find another one for my other building.

[@StreuB1]

Great vid Brian!! That compressor is going to be a big thumper once you're done with it. Nice!

[@StuHarris60]

I see that your smart new surface plate has become the nearest available flat surface. I recommend that a sheet of plywood would protect the plate pretty well.

[@jeremiahlandin2978]

Non detergent oil helps keep the water separated from the oil. Water can be drained out from the bottom instead of draining a milkshake.

[@Volcker1929]

Thanks for the look inside the compressor, too bad it wasn't better news.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

That was a well built compressor. The crank shaft looked a bit nasty.

[@755Fight]

Love tear-down vids! Thanks for sharing!

[@shortribslongbow5312]

Great project and thanks for sharing.

[@gordonsmith8400]

A bit of work to be done there Brian but bet she runs well sweet when you're done. interesting video thanks.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Getting pretty independent Brian. No Boss Bailey to supervise! If it all goes south you'll have some explaining to do in doggy treats!! Lol! Take care. Doug

[@bcbloc02]

You could hear him in the background being busy.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I thought it was the tin popping. Didn't know he got that industrious.

[@PhilsProjects]

Well worth the trouble and expense of tearing it down. LOL I know Pierre is going to cringe at you using your plate as a table top.... LOL Thanks for the video Brian.

[@bcbloc02]

Using the granite plate is not the best but I figure as long as I am not dragging things around or beating on them it is no harder on it than sitting a 1000lb engine block on it to measure.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Lol... It's Brian's table and he's old enough to use it at will... ;)

[@duobob]

The plate is not in known calibration anyway, just another reason to get that done. After that you will take care of it...

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I end up tearing down what I get right off the bat too. Always find something a dab off and I 10/4 on the gas. Best cleaning solvent there is. My compressor stays inside too. Water and oil don't mix worth a hoot and that shows it. Seems like I remember some OLD electric motors having the oil slinging rings. It'll be a fine machine when you get done. Baily will even like it.

[@travisshrewsbury7169]

good info to have,can't wait to see the rest

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Brian, Aside from that piston the unit seems all usable, a few replacement parts and clean up it should start pumping air for a long time now... Important to change the oil on a regular basis it will get the contaminants away and sound smoother. The little oval on the crank won't affect the performance for a long time, nothing like a gas engine, since the movement is so much softer, at least that wouldn't bother me... Considering how much $$$ is a new unit with that capacity, you get a good overall deal. Did you happen to check the tank itself as for rust and pitting...??? Cheers, Pierre

[@1954Chops]

I would check the integrity of the the tank by filling it right up with water and blocking all ports except one and then pressure it up using a pressure washer to its rated test pressure. If the tank is weak there is only a small squirt of water. I have done this on any pressure tanks that I have got.

[@tsw199756]

Regrind the crank! The quality will remain long after the price is forgotten!

[@peteferguson7024]

There's nothing like ripping the band aid off, pealing off the scab and getting to the route of the problem. No problem has been solved without out first identifying it... Good call and good on you for the teardown to make sure you don't run it for a few weeks and completely destroy it! FYI, not sure whey you spent so much time measuring the crank.... in the production world of cranks, we don't make them with taper, lobing, chatter or out of round conditions, that's why we don't even measure them ;) Thanks for the Video, Take Care...

[@bcbloc02]

See if there are any Ford cranks falling out the back door to fit my compressor then. :-)

[@richkellow1535]

I shall be most interested to see how you clean the crud off of the piston heads and from the cylinders.

[@bcbloc02]

Scotch brite pad on a 90deg angle grinder. I did the parts cleaning at work so i didn't film any of it.

[@joetiller1031]

Where I worked we had a lot of piston compressors we had one it was a joy but not a joy to work on, before I left they scraped them all and put in rotary compressors twist air I think.

[@gadget73]

I was actually cleaning the one I have at work today, pump is a 447 and the tank is dated 1997. If we upgrade the air system it won't have a home though. I might have to figure a way to power it at home, would be a shame to scrap it.

[@bcbloc02]

Don't scrap it! I would love to have it for parts the 445 and 447 are nearly identical I think the only change is the additional intake valve on the 447.

[@gadget73]

I don't plan to, its too nice a machine to throw away. Its been doing backup duty for at least 15 years, basically runs an hour a month to warm it up and make sure its still functional.

[@oakenarbor2046]

Excellent ! Any suggestions on what to look for on the older tank conditions? I'm OK with the compressor side of the vintage buying process, but I really have no clue how to approach the evaluation of the tank. Thanks.

[@bcbloc02]

My personal opinion is that if the tank isn't leaking I wouldn't worry about it. Just be sure the safety devises work.

[@micbanand]

3 years ago I messured a 30 year old tank. it was a 8mm. thinnes I messured where in the buttom. 6,7mm. messured with ultrasound tool I burowed home from work. So I dont think it will be a problem in generel. the sheap 8bars I have seen 4mm tanks

[@gadget73]

You can pump it up with water to pressure test it if you want. I saw a video of a guy using a pressure washer to do it. They only really get nasty if they sit with water in there. If it has an auto drain or was regularly done manually you should be ok.

[@tomkrause62]

Put the pistons/rings in the cylinders then install the wrist pins as you put the cylinders back on.

[@bcbloc02]

I actually have considered doing it that way if I can get to the bolt that tightens the wrist pin after getting the pistons and rods mated up. There may not be enough room to clear the case.

[@ericwolf5874]

It looks like there is a lot of oil and gunk left in the bottom of the case after the oil drain has been pulled. Since you have it apart, would you be able to put in a drain at the bottom of the case? Then pipe it out for easy access. Heck, even put a ball valve on it like someone else suggested. That way you could get more oil out at a change thereby getting more of the gunk out too. Might as well avoid the problems before they happen again.

[@bcbloc02]

I think it mainly didn't drain all the way because the sludge was deep enough to partially block the drain pipe.I hope my maintenance and environment turns it into a compressor to last my life time.

[@carryitaround]

Brian it may not be the deal you thought but you have the skills to make it like new. It's a matter of money. How can you fans help?

[@bcbloc02]

I haven't set up to do a Patreon or anything as I haven't looked into that. I can do paypal donations though if there is interest.

[@danielmurphy5584]

brian, question for ya. do you have any knowledge on curtis air compressors that is early models, with the plate V-161-1414.

[@bcbloc02]

I can't say that I do, but most of the Curtis compressors I have seen look like t series Ingersoll Rands so maybe there is a relation there?

[@ShainAndrews]

Always been a little curious about the specified non detergent oil in most compressors. I seem to recall the logic was for the contaminants to sit on the bottom of the sump. Seems like the contaminants sat on every surface including the bottom of the sump. I wonder if an appropriate detergent oil with some actual maintenance (yearly oil change?) would be better. Of course after posting I see Stan's statement about the oil selection. I didn't consider the foaming from the components swinging through the oil. Non detergent it is.... with regular maintenance ;-)

[@bcbloc02]

I have heard the logic and reasons behind the non detergent oils but am not entirely sold. What I find is that usually non detergent means ever passgeway is caked full of goo and eventually gets plugged and the machine destroys itself even though full of oil. Our Champion compressor at work has had 30w Deere engine oil(with detergent) run in it for at least the last 60 years and it still pumps up 175psi air multiple times a day 6 days a week. that being said the Deere oil has a lot of ant foam additives to it because it also is used in hydraulic systems.

[@ShainAndrews]

I have some of that same oil around here too. Thinking more about the foaming as the core reason. Most motorcycles engines and transmissions share the same oil. Talk about a recipe for foam, that would be the industrial blender to get the job done, but yet foam is not an issue. You might be onto something. The sludge you have in your compressor did not occur from non-use that's for sure. Detergent should keep it suspended until it can be drained. Speaking of I always add pipe, ball valves, anything that is needed to make service simple and clean. Seems to go a long way to ensuring the maintenance occurs around my place anyway.

[@gadget73]

Ours at work has been running the mfg's oil since birth. Its a 30 weight with some anti-foam in it. Not sure if its detergent or not, but its amber like detergent oil. ND is usually kind of clear.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

10/4 on that. I use Delo 15/40 in everything but change it when needed. Not one problem so far and ran a 980 with over 24k hours on it because of it and never been touched. Cat couldn't believe it. Too bad, Kitty Cat guys.

[@Comm0ut]

USB borescopes are cheap and work with your phone or computer. If the access plugs are stuck I'd drill and tap one to get access.

[@dennislee444]

hate to see the LP piston like that makes it expensive.these are dang good compressors.kinda built like the old gardner denver, my favorite ,,,,,,,quincy is next . is the hp piston cast ? wish it had an oil pump though thats why we quit using them on towboats. we went to all quincy. there not bad to put jugs on . takes three hands though. enjoyed the video.

[@bcbloc02]

I considered modifying it to be pressure lubed but honestly if it lasted 50 years on the ring lube system it likely will outlast me.

[@lwilton]

A shame that it got bad enough to crack a piston. I guess that having all that muck in there really isn't too surprising. How often does the local garage have their compressor torn down to be sure that the oil is clean and no dirt in things? Maybe every 10-15 years when the thing fails? Looks like this had about the same level of maintenance. Slinger ring lubrication used to be fairly common for things like machine tools like lathes. I'm not too surprised that it was used in a compressor. Generally it works pretty well if you keep the oil clean.

[@darinareyacrazyman1505]

Couldn't agree more,most shops never change the oil and filters on the shop air compressor,many don't even drain the condensate out of the tank.Never understood the concept of running an expensive piece of equipment with no maintenance and expecting it to last.

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

how is it running now? did you complete it ? I have 4 of these in stock, fully rebuilt and we really like working on them vs other compressor brands

[@bcbloc02]

Been supplying my shop with air everyday for over a year. I have videos of putting it back together and it running.

[@marcellemay7721]

Where are you getting parts for the compressor rebuild? I have a large 3 phase compressor that needs the outer crank bearing amongst other things. I'll probably just rebuild the whole thing if I can get parts reasonably. If anybody knows a place that sells compressor parts online, let me know.

[@bcbloc02]

Where to get parts depends on the brand. The cheapest kit I found was on ebay. The crank main bearings were nothing special and we stocked usa made ones at the Deere dealership I work at.

[@marcellemay7721]

The brand is a little bit of a mystery. I bought it at auction and the tags were painted over. The only thing I could find on the compressor has was a "made in Brazil" sticker. It's a two stage twin cylinder configuration. And it's cast iron, like yours, but that's all I know about it. I've been looking around to see if I can find one that looks like it, but I haven't yet. I only paid $120 for it, the motor is an American made peerless 3 phase motor, and it's got a 100 gallon tank. The motor is smooth as can be. The compressor head may have been a replacement. Not sure.

[@chemech]

What I'd be worried about with an older compressor is the state of the tank. Those things tend to get rusty from condensate, and when the wall gets too thin, it's no longer able to safely hold the pressure... bad news when that happens. Those oil lubed reciprocating compressors rebuild a lot like an engine, don't they? Not something I'm setup to do... fun to watch you do it...

[@bcbloc02]

I was once involved in a project where we took 903cubic inch Cummins V8 engines and built them into a 5 stage high pressure compressor used for rock drilling.

[@stuarthardy4626]

bcbloc02 Brian this is not my doing but my fitter when was in work 20 plus years ago now, used to work in development at a diesel manufacturer here in the U.K. He worked on gas flow for the heads ,but was involved in the combined engine/compressor they used three cylinders for the diesel part and the other three for the compressor , it started out as a straight six , the cam was a bit tricky 😱 Never got into production though Good luck sorting it out , well air is a good insulator provided there is enough of it does ok for the 132kv ht pylons 😜 Proper term blocks and shakeproof washers are in order for high vibration situations

[@oakenarbor2046]

oh, and on the head support during piston reinsert...didn't I hear you mention the bridge crane had fingertip control...:)

[@bcbloc02]

Yes but holding 2 pistons, a jug and running the crane might exceed the number of hands I have! lol

[@TomZelickman]

When did you have time to do this? Wow... Are going to replace that leaky ball valve while you are at it? Seems like you'll have one heck of a compressor when all of this is done though. Still cheaper than buying a new one too! Best wishes, Tom Z

[@bcbloc02]

Yes leaky ball valve is getting upgraded with a larger higher flow one so it isn't a choke point. I had a day off to fool with it what did you think would happen? :-)

[@brianparke3975]

mayby take the crank to a engine shop and have them run it thru there hot tank and maybe a light polish on the journals.

[@caemaridwn]

Can't wait for the rebuild don't forget anything video it all "everything" warts and all. Lol

[@Z-Ack]

I’m about to tackle a jenny u pump.. 340 lb hunk of metal right now but hoping its not all ate up inside.. worked fine when removed from the tank that developed a hole in it.. but it sat around for a few years.. 3800$ new.. i paid 150$ for it.. figured cant go wrong because its 100$ worth of scrap aluminum if all else fails and i gain a big flywheel.. dunno where I’m going to get a 12hp motor to run it though.. suckers are high dollar..

[@bcbloc02]

You only need big hp if you want to turn it fast. You can run a huge pump with 2hp if you pulley it to only run like 100rpm

[@donaldmckinnon7467]

I would try putting the pistons all the was up into the jugs,put the jugs on the block without the crank in in the block and then put the crank in and pull the rods down.Just a thought.

[@bcbloc02]

No way to tighten the rod bolts with the jugs down.

[@donaldmckinnon7467]

You could do one side.

[@eformance]

That's a Champion pump. The ones I've seen tend to blow up.

[@paulcopeland9035]

What is the average age for them to "blow up"? 75, 100 years?? This one has made it 50, so we'll let you hold your breath waiting!

[@bcbloc02]

It is a Devilbiss pump, the champion pumps have a lot more fins and no cylinder heads as they use a domed piston. We have an 80yo one at work.

[@eformance]

Well, Champion has put their name on a lot of pumps over the years. This is the pump I was thinking of: www.eatoncompressor.com/10hp-4-cylinder-2-stage-air-compressor-pump Champion even puts their name on the Gardner-Denver pump on My Old Compressor(tm)

[@bcbloc02]

This is what actually was a Champion pump before all the buy outs mergers and acquisitions. www.championpneumatic.com/products/reciprocating_compressors/lubricated/r_series/?n=490 In my experience they are an excellent pump.

[@frednewman2162]

Your bracket for the electrical box seems to have a familiar color, did some "Case" part sacrifice itself for that bracket?

[@bcbloc02]

No idea where the bracket came from it was on the compressor when I got it.

[@mikemarriam]

How much longer do you think that bad piston would have held up? Did you suspect that would be the cause of the leak? I would like to get a compressor, and there are many for sale on Craigslist, but I have absolutely no idea how to evaluate the condition of a used one and right now a new one is out of the question.

[@bcbloc02]

Blowby, noise excessive heat, that is about all you can inspect for without a tear down and unless you know what those units are normally like it is hard to know what is or isn't abnormal. I had suspected an issue when I bought it and paid accordingly. I figure I am better off buying cheap and fixing it myself and knowing what I have than paying more money and maybe not having anything any better. I believe new pumps alone of this model are north of $5k.

[@mikemarriam]

bcbloc02 Thanks.

[@craignicholson505]

Good to know u can get parts for it brian look forward to seeing the rebuild are u for striping and crack checking the tank ?

[@bcbloc02]

if it was cracked it wouldn't hold air for days.

[@craignicholson505]

At least it won't let go on u after the rebuild

[@captahab801]

Just use a hose clamp around the piston rings snug it down and slide the cylinder on and take the hose clamp off

[@cyrilhudak4568]

You're not using the granite for a workbench.

[@dougankrum3328]

...10:00....that intake valve sure has a lot of oil/grease on it.....they're usually dirty, but dry oil cooked on from high heat.....maybe sucking oil from somewhere, like that cracked piston....?

[@bcbloc02]

I see there is a passage on the intake side by the valve going to the crankcase and I assume that is the breather for the crank so likely the extra blowby from the damaged piston was blowing oil up into the intake thru there.

[@dhollm]

At 15:20 Brian mentions the unloader assembly - what does that do? I think I understood everything else but that...

[@bcbloc02]

The unloader relieves pressure off the pistons so when the motor starts to turn the pump there isn't 175psi of air against the pistons keeping it from turning.

[@dhollm]

​@@bcbloc02 I understand now, thanks!

[@thomasutley]

Brian, I'll be honest and say that your comfort level with the condition of the tank makes me a little squeamish. At least stick a borescope in there and see what the bottom looks like. Just not worth the risk. Search KZbin for "compressor explosion" and it will ruin your whole day. As one of the other commenters said you can also do a water burst test with no danger of it going boom.

[@bcbloc02]

I googled it and all I found was an over pressure failure and a bunch of tanks being shot or exploded with explosives. The Mr Pete video of the craftsman tank is what will happen 99.99999% of the time and the tank will leak long before it goes boom. The odds of the tank rusting evenly enough in a large enough section length to explode a tank are astronomical. A failed safety relief is far more dangerous.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

10/4 on the leak instead of the boom. Seen it several times as long as the safety's work.

[@brand-x7049]

@6:10 We can call that the 'small' ratchet. ~XD

[@shade38211]

Sucks, extra cash, but love the rebuild/ fix vid . Thx for filming. Do you take calming meds or talk breaks in filming to calm down? Personally , would be screaming at some of these "surprise failures" like hooker stole my wallet. Funny that most of channels I love to watch, all have easy going lads fixing, someone's else's neglect or 1/2 assing .

[@bcbloc02]

No sense getting tore up about it, it is what it is. What bothers me most is when someone "fixes something" but actually messes it up worse.

[@johnferguson7235]

My dad had a favorite piece of wisdom, "If you don't take the time to do it right, you will have to take the time to do it again". Even a little bit of experience will teach you that if you do things half-assed, it will turn around and bite you at the worst time; when you're broke or out of time. Spending time to do this well is a solid investment of your time.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

Nobody re-licks their calf anymore.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

2nd this!

[@dougankrum3328]

...yeah, as an Industrial Maint Mech/Elec....I saw plenty of that (fix something) type of stuff....... At my last job....I asked my Employer who did the mechanical maint before I was there...."We Did".....Uhm....yeah, and it shows......although they did hire outside electricians when needed, good thing too....they were like "zero skill level" when it came to that "double-phase" stuff......that's 'tech-speak'...... for non electricians when working with 1,000 Amp 3-phase 480 volt service.... ?

[@ronalddavis]

Coud you weld up that piston and then turn it down?

[@bcbloc02]

Probably could but the results would be lackluster at best and achieving a nice balanced piece would be way more hours involved than it is worth, I will just buy a new one.

[@asherdie]

How close does a big block chevy piston come to working?

[@bcbloc02]

The piston was 4.5" so bigger than a 454 still. The wrist pin is smaller and the piston is much lighter so that it matches the weight of the high pressure piston. Adapting pistons from an ic engine to work would not have been realistic, it would have been easier to make the right piston from scratch.

[@TomChame]

Check Egge Machine Co. for new pistons. Nice work.

[@victoryfirst2878]

The plate says 300 minimum RPM. Not pressure. Read the plate Sir.

[@bcbloc02]

If you look at the line of silver boxes above where it says 300rpm minimum it says 600 max rpm at 300psi.

[@victoryfirst2878]

@@bcbloc02 Sorry I must of missed that information.

[@yqwgjsg]

You're a little light in the ass to get up to Abom torque. Should have gotten Bailey to lend you a hand 🙄. Great videos.

[@ShainAndrews]

I can't find pistons for that thing so far. I"m sure you found PDF's already. If not here is the one I've been using. www.devairusa.com/Devair_Pumps/Devair_Breakdowns_pdf/445.pdf

[@bcbloc02]

I should have a piston Wednesday.

[@ShainAndrews]

NICE! I looked over the specs on that pump. 34 cfm @ 175 psi and 40ish @ 125 psi will fill a bicycle tire in short order. LOL.

[@bcbloc02]

Yeah it is actually bigger than our Champion at work and it supplies a 9 bay shop. It should easily be able to keep up with my 1in impact.

[@danvandertorre9280]

200 for a piston for it ,id cast my own but that's me .

[@bcbloc02]

I don't have that ability.

[@danvandertorre9280]

if you want too know I can tell you how .god bless you .

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. What have they done to that poor thing? I know that if they would have looked after it the thing would have been more expensive, but this looks like neglect. She's a big bastard, but would you have bought her if you knew all this? A 1000 bucks don't seem all that cheap. Oh, you will have thought of it, but if it had that much water/moister in the compressor, what does the tank look like?

[@bcbloc02]

I believe it is called weathering and not doing enough service, biggest issue was not knowing how to actually fix something when it failed. Had they quit using it rather than replacing the bearing I don't think the crank would have been damaged, can't say about when the piston went though, the main could have gotten it.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Although not good, I think that the piston is not that big of a deal unless the top is cracked as well. Can't the pistons be replaced with automotive or bike ones?

[@ShainAndrews]

That's a lot of specs to try to locate and cross reference from another application. I bet replacement parts can still be located. As for cost. Seems like complete dual stage compressors like to start around $2500. Those newer compressors are not built to produce 300 psi. Turn the Devilbiss down to operate at 150 psi, maybe even under drive it and it will easily last several lifetimes.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Fair enough, but I'll bet he was not looking for an other project. In the end, it will still be a nice but old compressor.

[@bcbloc02]

I figure a nice old compressor is as good as a nice new compressor. Being as how they make nearly this exact same compressor today there would not really be any difference in function between a new one and my old one once I am done with it and it will still be like 1/8th the cost.

[@lariwoo]

You will probably find there is an automotive piston with the same important dimensions for little money.

[@keldsor]

Hi ! I wonder why you don't prefere a screw-type compressor instead - here in Denmark they are as cheap as piston-type second hand. They are LOW noise and HIGH airflow - take a look at mine - more details here in danish but you can Google Translate to the right just under the menu line - choose whatever language you like in the combobox: kelds.weebly.com/skruekompressor.html

[@bcbloc02]

My understanding is the life of screw compressors is greatly reduced if they cycle a lot. In my shop my usage dictates that compressors cycle a lot as I don't have any steady demand. Guys that work on such things tell me they typically see 10000 to 12000hr to rebuild times on the screw comps while the good quality piston jobs can go 30000-50000hr. They also tell me the screw comps can go 60000hr if they have a nice continuous load but they don't manage anywhere close to that on high cycle jobs. Doubt you can rebuild a screw comp for $500 either so they are more of a risk to buy in the used market.

[@dougankrum3328]

..I worked for a compressor outfit for a while...rule of thumb....if your re-cip unit runs more than 50% of the time....get a screw-type unit.......most 'in plant' screw compressors run all the time, just load-unload as air system requires.....my last job, we had a KAESER.....108K hours on the clock, never been opened....oil changes only.....good screw type units properly serviced...oil/air filter/oil-separator......run 100K hours easy....synthetic oil is worth the $$ on this stuff....!

[@bcbloc02]

Good info, my compressors likely run 2% of the time. My air demands are heavy in spurts but nothing at all most of the time.

[@chrisstephens6673]

Within reason, a piston is a piston so why not ask at your local car reborers if they have something with the right dimensions that you could fit, car pistons should be somewhat cheaper than OE ones I know you are well capable of making any slight modifications, if they were needed, it's a if it was a racing engine.

[@bcbloc02]

For their size the pistons are much lighter than automotive ones and they are made so that the big aluminum piston weighs the same as the little steel piston so the compressor rotating assembly is balanced.

[@chrisstephens6673]

Is balance a big problem at 500 RPM? besides you could machine away some weight, I'm just trying to save you money, something that is always dear to my heart :>)

[@bcbloc02]

While I am all about saving money and some would say I am even tight I think looking for and modifying car pistons would be penny wise and pound foolish. Many auto pistons you can't even buy one they want to sell you a set. I am glad the original parts are still available from the manufacturer and are a reasonable price for a low production piece. I couldn't make one from scratch for $200. Now the $1900 crank I could probably make a billet one of those if I had to! Thanks for the suggestion and keep saving! :-)

[@carryitaround]

Brian are you on Facebook?

[@bcbloc02]

No Facebook for me keeping up with the tube is enough!

[@dagwood1327]

+++

[@buffalojoe1970]

Came across this link and thought it might be helpful to your rebuild. If not or if you already have been there then never mind. www.centrair.ca/old-devilbiss-445-pump.html