Reduce GMC Sierra Drive Shaft Clunk - Slip Yoke Grease Fitting Install - HOW TO

[@robincampassi8360]

WARNING!!!!!: I installed a grease fitting on the slip yoke of my 2002 4WD Suburban. This was to get rid of the "Chevy Clunk" when putting it in gear, etc. I pumped it full of grease expecting it to ooze out from the boot, but it did not. Some time later I saw transfer case fluid mixed with grease all under the truck in that area. It seemed to be coming from the front of the transfer case. I drained the transfer case and it was full of grease and transfer case fluid. I did 3 cycles of run, drain and refill of the transfer case and finally got nice pink fluid draining and no more blowing fluid out of the front of the transfer case. Please learn from my mistake.

[@txlonghornremodeling]

What happened to showing the before and after slack? I think that was the main reason for the video. No proof was shown here.

[@jaredgodbey]

Just an FYI, you should drill #7 or 13/64" for 1/4"-20 tap; 7/32" for 1/4"-28 threads.

[@ahkiureemshabazz4927]

2008 GMC Yukon XL. The clunking happens when my rear wheels go over speed bumps and potholes etc. Only when the rear wheels go over... I will check slip yoke and U joint I hope its a simple fix. Thanks for sharing

[@kevinoconnell8242]

If you have a transfer case, 4x4, the case fluid is responsible to lubricate the spline. So you are forcing grease into the transfer case. If this helps your noise that is great, but be sure to change the fluid in the transfer case after a few injectoins of grease as the transfer case fluid is quite specific.

[@capnbly]

I was wondering why my rear drive shaft slip yoke didnt have a grease fitting or any grease on the splines when i pulled it out of the transfer case. I have a 4x4 . thank you.

[@trevorferguson8271]

Slip yoke don’t have a grease fitting because grease isn’t meant to be in there.

[@bryankrug7213]

I just disconnected the drive shaft from the differential, removed the hose clamp from the rubber boot and finger greased the splines behind the carrier. No more clunk.

[@preston2131]

Bryan Krug what rubber boot are you talking about ?

[@ScottPBrown]

What hose clamp?

[@vrtentis]

You don't need to mark one piece drive shafts they are balanced as a one piece and interchangeable between the cars and truck that they fit, that is something you have to do to older style two piece drive shafts. Just an FYI to people who may be watching.

[@thefooster6779]

Dude, you know you just super glued that zerk fitting lol

[@snapshot12002]

Over time and pumping grease into the yoke many times are you worried about grease making its way into the transmission?

[@veggiepowered]

Thanks For The Video This Saved My GMC Safari Van From Going To The Scrap

[@ralfie8801]

So many people are so mistaken about driveshaft balancing. It does not matter how you put the shaft back in, it won't affect the balance at all. Why? Because the driveshaft is balanced during the manufacturing process before it ever even has any u joints or yokes installed, and at a different factory than the one that installed it in the vehicle too. It can't just magically balance itself to the differential after it's been installed and driven for a while. If any of that were true, you'd need to have the thing rebalanced every time you put a new u joint in.

[@jeffreygordon2298]

Interesting idea, but one thing to consider is that the new hole introduces a stress concentration and also provides a nice source for crack initiation. The end result will be reduced fatigue life at that location. (source: I'm a professional mechanical engineer with a background in stress analysis). Depending on the original factor of safety used by the designers this may (or may not) be less than the remaining life of the vehicle.

[@brooksjorgensen7621]

not to mention...what happened to all the shavings from drilling the hole.... they are still in that shaft probably causing more damage, and speeding up the failure process of those parts.

[@les3316]

@@brooksjorgensen7621 unless he drilled it after the yoke was out trans

[@josemaciel1586]

What about vibration. shafts are balanced to reduce that and if you remove or add material I think there should be some type of unbalance just my thoughts.

[@jackle842000]

I know these slip yolk move in and out but is it suppose to have a small amount side to side play or is that a sign of a bearing or bushing somewhere worn out or something?

[@nathan00campbell]

wouldnt this get grease into your transmission or transfer case, both of which would be bad

[@chrishuntman]

nathan campbell exactly why I wouldn't do it.

[@MoDave82]

Don't do this on a 6L90 six speed because you will be adding grease to your transmission... It's lubed with the atf already in the transmission it does not require greasing

[@injunpride]

I noticed the in and out movement as the drive shaft began to twist. This is from the slop of a rear end differential with a bad ring and pinion backlash. The pinion gear is either riding on the concave or convex side of the ring gear pushing or pulling itself in or out depending on the direction of force being applied. I would rebuild my differential back to specification, this may be a issue due to the tools involved. Keep in mind it takes around 130 ft. lbs. of force to compress a pinion compression sleeve and you have back up that kind force. In doing so you will also be able to inspect your gears for any bad wear patterns and metal pieces in your sump. Best of luck

[@RedSandAdventure]

This is it!

[@alexmerlos2637]

wait what.. this here makes no sense. what you did on that shaft makes ABSOLUTLY no difference nothing went into the spindles

[@nickaupperle5989]

Read the GM tsb's before doing this crap....ON a 4x4 you use atf of whatever is in the t-case being as it doesnt have a seal inside to seperate the grease and t-case fluid.....ON a 2wd you can use the "special lube" (synthetic grease) because it does have a seal inside to keep it from leaching in there...hope this info helps

[@JosephWilliams-nz7jr]

Nick Jordan

[@scottblubaugh]

This is what I came to find in the comments, if the process was the same for 2wd, thanks.

[@hondasniper250]

Scott Blubaugh and this still doesn’t work. It’s going to be one of the bearings went bad most likely.

[@abuabdullah6729]

the grease fitting will rip up the output shaft seal , I know I tried it and wend back to original. its a waste of time.

[@meddemongalaxy691]

abu abdullah Makkah 👍👍👍 good that good

[@drwombat]

Thanks alot for filming this because i needed to see what was involved with doing this. Have you seen the TSB from 2010 on not greasing slip yokes for 4L60 equipped 4WD transmissions? The grease is not compatible with AT Fluid. They reccomend greasing the yoke with AT Fluid instead. I may do this on my 2WD but I may also just replace the slip yoke with a nickel plated version since its about the same work

[@erikhamilton4866]

So do you hear a clunk or just feel it from stop to go? I have a 2000 silverado and I did 3" coil spacers in front and 2.5" blocks in back amd have been trying to figure out where this play is coming from when I take off from a stop you joints are all new carrier bearings new I'm starting to think there's play between the drive shaft somewhere from the lift but not sure

[@evracer]

Don't do this....any of it....just don't. You're either going to push grease into your trans or transfer case, weaken the yoke, or damage your tailhousing seal.....on top of that you'll be using the WRONG GREASE. The right grease for that doesn't come in a gun.... that's why they don't put a grease fitting for it.

[@rickmueller836]

the nickle plated transmission yoke is the proper repair.

[@chrisboettcher4149]

Rick Mueller where does one get the nickle plated yoke

[@canes7473]

Rockauto.com. Just buy a new one. It’s the right way to fix that issue. $250.00

[@chooch502]

I think it's gold plated 😁

[@dakster1a]

Seems like you will only grease about 3 of the splines with this procedure. I don't think there is any way for the grease to get around all of the splines.

[@brooksjorgensen7621]

you are correct because the grease leaked right back out after he put it in if you look at the grease zurk closely in the video.

[@boostedbavarian]

Zirk is a waste

[@joshuabower1326]

I heard that if you take that apart and pop one of those 50 cent crank machine bouncy balls in there that will hold the tension and will reduce play and since it's a bouncy ball it will somewhat conform form when under pressure without doing any damage....... That's just what I've heard I haven't done it myself

[@unclebishoppeskitchen5838]

I saw a guy put a hand ball in there and it seemed like too much work so today and not 2019, I'm gonna go get one of those $50 cent bouncy balls and stuff it down in there with some grease. I'm just worried it might disintegrate the ball. I've busted them open and they have an almost cellular composition inside. Like it's a million little rubber balls pressed together to make one ball.

[@lauderdalechad]

Greasing the splines is just a bs band-aid fix from GM. Want to fix it once and for all? Go to an auto parts store and buy some leaf spring clamps and attach them right in front of the rear axle and you will never hear or feel that dreaded clunk again! They prevent the minor axle wrap that jerks the drive shaft upon stopping and taking off, plus it will give you better traction and make the rear end feel more planted. Cost $10 and takes 10 minutes to put them on, I did it and it was still dead silent a year later when I sold my Silverado

[@TimKollat]

make a video of this so I can see how its done to do the same to my truck

[@NateWrabel]

Do you have instructions for installing these clamps?

[@MikeW1981]

lauderdalechad I am sure this technique works for people but it is not a 100% guarantee. I installed the spring clamps right after I got my truck a few years back and it only minimally reduced the clunk. Installing them is simple, slide the u bolt over the leafs and then tighten then up as close to the rear axle as you can.

[@joekingracing]

Thanks Dude! I ended up buying the clamps and installing them 3 inches in front of the axle and clunk is gone! Best part is I was finished in less than 10 minutes and didn't have to pull the DS.

[@adl2005]

don't know what you mean have you got a pic please so i know what i'm doing,thanks.

[@mattsnow4116]

got about 1 minute into the video and decided to stop watching right about when he said he had a 1/4 and 15/64 drill bit. assuming you are correct and the fitting has 1/4 inch threads they will be 1/4-28 UNF. both bits are to large, the 1/4" one is size on size which = no threads. you clearly have the internet, next time you want to drill holes in stuff look up the tap drill size.

[@208miuwu]

Smart brother I have just dropped the drive shaft and pack it with grease, great idea. Thanks for video

[@burkey426]

Proper fix is a Nickle plated Slip yoke, GM knows all their trucks have this problem and charge $500 for it. You can find them for around $100 with GM part #12477702 - for 1500 ext cab.

[@rickc1124]

Sir, I heard you mention near the end of your video that your truck is "so old". Uh, I'd like to say your truck is in very good condition and looks fairly new to me. I guess my 2001 2500 Suburban must be an antique. Anyway, noce video and good luck with your truck. :)

[@craigpoeppelman6270]

I have the same driveshaft as this one on my 2001 gmc sierra. Yesterday I removed driveshaft and replaced only the u joint on yoke side. I marked where it came out. My truck was outside overnight with driveshaft removed......and it rained. Now I put the drive shaft on exactly how it came off and I cannot get it to turn over. Im wondering if water got into transmission. Im also noticing one of the spindles looks wider than all the others on the yoke male......but none look wide enough to accommodate on the female receiving end..........I tried to turn it over enough to know something is not right........so Im thinking water in my transmission or I need a new yoke? Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated

[@hjjackson05]

Before and after sounded the same. After movement clunked and then no further movement was tried

[@KMac.222]

This video was alot of help thank you for making it.

[@davidciukaj658]

Can I just buy a new slip yolk? Will that fix the sound

[@williamcox1170]

I have a 93 Chevy suburban 4x4 that has just started clanking when i shift into reverse can it is it dangerous to drive?

[@billydenham9313]

I just found out that my 2004 Chevy trailblazer V6 doesn't have a slip yoke. You have to buy the whole driveshaft. Now isn't that nice to know?

[@jonathanbellows113]

Is this the Rear Axle spline lube job for maintenance?

[@unosuave]

Is the drive shaft balanced as a unit with the rear and front yoke?

[@adams9360]

Over time and heavy torque small cracks are going to form and them BOOM! you on the free way the trans yoke brakes. You be careful mate

[@jasonx4008]

my 2007 silverado has the clunk as well. aside from being annoying, does it hurt the truck in any way?

[@manny6584]

Think its more of A annoyance then anything

[@jasonx4008]

yea ive learned to just deal with it, its not terrible. no one notices it but me

[@helivesonforever]

Jason X You don't have play in the U-joints?

[@jasonx4008]

No

[@GTIZmoKiDD]

Does the 2002 Chevy Avalanche 2wd have a front yoke?

[@xzx4020]

Wouldn’t this cause your vehicle to vibrate while going down the road?

[@yoryosyermanos9035]

I watched your video and it is very helpful. I also notice during your video a bird was calling, can you please tell me what kind of bird it was, thanks.

[@James-pr8tn]

+George Germanos LOL a cookoo bird. That will be in the next video. I noticed there was a dead skunk that he had run over stuck to the bottom of the frame.

[@eviloctober]

I am just being sarcastic funny red raider you did a real nice video and the work you did and posting is appreciative thank you!

[@andrewzaccardi9555]

where does the grease go after you keep adding more and more grease?

[@sbond1963]

well if you pull that out and you lose transfer case fluid or transmission fluid then the grease must get into the transmission or transfer case which could be really bad. I assume this one is sealed so it would just push out and fly all over the place

[@dennisrandall9698]

Bondo yeah it’s not sealed. The transmission fluid inside the transfer case is responsible for keeping the slip yoke lubricated. This is straight injecting grease into the transfer case. On top of that now the balance is off on the drive shaft causing minute vibrations that eventually could get worse and cause damage.

[@robertpaul3675]

Good thing I didn't do this lol

[@robertpaul3675]

I was thinking of doing this doesn't seem very safe after all

[@toriwilliams500]

This the video the dude was roasting about the grease fitting. Wow

[@pauljrplavecsky8660]

You are asking for trouble if you have a load in the bed..this will compress slip joint into tailshaft of transfer case or transmission. Thus ripping it up from grease fitting.

[@Billyboy4209]

Ur comment is exactly why I read comments! I was thinking about doing this and that never crossed my mind.good call!

[@foch3]

+Paul Jr Plavecsky That slip yoke doesn't move that much. Not enough angle too long a wheelbase. A jeep might have that problem.

[@pauljrplavecsky8660]

It's pretty close. ..

[@foch3]

Paul Jr Plavecsky I agree it's close but slip yokes move in and out a little not one way a bunch.

[@BigBlueDog8]

[@Ezrider359]

the orientation of the u joint in the yolk on the rear end doesn't make a f-all of difference, when you need to mark your drive shaft is when you separate a slip yolk on a 2 peice driveshaft so your phasing does not get off. i would not recommend this repair as the rear trans seal seals on the outside of the rear trans yolk so your grease is going to contaminate your transmission/or transfer case fluid (2wd vrs 4wd). if there is excessive play in the yolk the proper fix would be to replace the yolk and or output shaft depending on the level of wear, not to pump the slack with grease.

[@BryanChance]

I can't get the driver shaft to disconnect from the differential...

[@eviloctober]

no no no you got it all wrong 2 grease fitting needed 180 degrees from each other now the balance is all off CRAP man! and if you fill the tube with air it makes it go faster use any tire valve stem but make sure. to use 2 to keep the balance equal

[@HungNguyen91622]

Hahah

[@RedSandAdventure]

Hahahahahahaha I just lost my shit!

[@djlennyb]

2007 Tahoe got in Jan 2006..... 104,550 miles.. When I brake normal to hard and then release the brake to accelerate, I hear and feel a clunk thump type of sound from the rear end, almost as if I got rear ended.. You feel it , you hear it. It's annoying.. I hear it's u joints, this that and the other.. Firestone and the dealer don't know what it is .... SMH

[@R3dR8dr]

theoretically, yes. there should be enough empty space where you wouldn't hit the splines with your drill, just be careful when you're about to punch through so you don't knick the splines of the transfer case and/or transmission output. also, be sure you fully remove all metal shaving with magnet/vacuum, etc. Also, removing driveshaft if also pretty painless.

[@brooksjorgensen7621]

I hate putting in comments like this...but making a video like this is meant for showing someone HOW to do a procedure...which you didnt. and the "fix" didnt fix anything. the before and after sound exactly the same. Again sorry if this sounds bad, but i think you need to make a video about actually fixing it please. Your grease zerk, is also leaking...

[@shawnp8429]

if the engineer did not design this before they built the vehicle I am not adding it. if one was already there I would upgrade it may be but not add it.

[@narcoticrex]

if the engineer didnt design it to be packed with grease, why did GMC send out a service bulletin to all techs to do exactly that to fix the clunk? because it wasnt engineered correctly to begin with.

[@shawnp8429]

narcoticrex that would be called a recall, and if so you could take it and have it done for free

[@pauljrplavecsky8660]

Good point Gabe. I guess I am used to lifted trucks?

[@troypowders4312]

If you want to fix the problem just buy a nickel plated slip yoke

[@franciscorodriguez6511]

Where can I get one for a 2015 gmc sierra slt?

[@edwardthayer9386]

What's wrong with your exhaust? Why is it so far up towards the front of your truck?

[@tommywilliams9184]

Because he don't know what he's talking about

[@manny6584]

Is that the clunk or shutter noise I hear when my truck goes from 1st to second during slow speeds?

[@carlosmelgoza1122]

just replace the u-joints???

[@rameshnatu7731]

boss greesing point s, how to applying with grease gun with compressor

[@dallastruckscene9755]

Anyone here in 2021

[@DG-sf9ei]

Use real grease #2 Lucas,not GM garbage or anything similar, and ya won't need to install a zerk. Maybe service intervals of grease every 75k miles.

[@hillbobaggins]

Why does the driveshaft have to be removed? Can't you just crawl under there and drill a hole and tap it and install the zerk?

[@drockwork]

is this a 2500?

[@rcastanaga]

Thanks I have a 2004 clunk is not bad but hope this helps.

[@bretk7916]

Do not do this it will get grease in your transfer case and the oil and grease if the pH levels are different from each other you can create a thick sticky paste add transfer case fluid and I'll do the same thing

[@insightwmrssladywbuzz5779]

Wow, This is diffidently is a April Fool Ya, Video.Didn’t go around the block ,and the drill bits are way to big, and what was really the purpose for drilling a hole and the clunking sound was still there. Really.You must need bad karma real bad in your life. Like. Who puts ppl. In the wrong direction on purpose just get bad luck in return.What kind of joy is this ..Really?

[@kevinhumphrey932]

DO NOT DO THIS the clunking sound is caused by a bad u-joint or worn splins the oil from the t-case lubes the splines it sounds like his problem is in the ring gear & pinion slack

[@jayyvonn780]

you don't need to mark the drive shaft. but nice try.

[@giuseppeagostinelli9642]

i don't understand why people think you need to mark it. driveshafts arent balanced on the vehicle! lol

[@johndowe7003]

idiots lol

[@halimspahi168]

Jayy Vonn he's trying to make a helpful video he can make some mistakes I may not be nice just to point it out and explain it but not make fun of the guy

[@wilgar58]

Halim Spahi ż

[@giuseppeagostinelli9642]

***** Ya, you definetly dont! If you have any knowledge about how they are balanced, you would understand that they are balanced on a machine. Then installed into the vehicle. Sounds as stupid as me telling you to mark your wheels before removing them off your vehicle, to make sure they go on in the same wheel studs, or it'll be out of balance...

[@BobsBurgers6996]

my 89 s10 makes a clunking noise in the rear end im kinda lost

[@les3316]

I know this is old but its more than likely the back u joint

[@carmac1652]

You are lost

[@marcmiller477]

GM SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF THEM SELVES THE PUT OUT AN "ADVISORY REPORT" TO COVER THERE BACKS AND STILL FOR YEARS KEPT PUTTING THIS JUNK ON THERE ASSEMBLY LINES... GM IS TERRIBLE THERE FRAUDS.

[@gustavogutierrez5698]

Great fucking job

[@tonysilva8222]

Toyota comes with the grease fitting for that

[@J-Christopher]

You’ve never heard of a pilot hole? Yikes.

[@HuskyCloud9]

This seems like a bad idea. Do not drill holes in your drive shaft.

[@tr7oy]

Yeah, a grease fitting on a part that spins and is open to the road. I suppose it worked for him well enough and he's happy with it, but your response was the first thing that came to my mind: This just seems like a bad idea. Lol.

[@jeffreyvandermeiren9806]

Please nobody do this

[@chrisbryant3218]

the guy is just making a video if you don have anything nice to say move on

[@reidb1234]

Chris Bryant I see why some people are saying this is. i am a tech and this in itself is disastrous and could cause transmission failure

[@halimspahi168]

Reid Brummer I agree and some of you guys should actually let this guy know to pull his video down

[@narcoticrex]

well Mr. Tech you might want to look up GMC service bulletins instructing the driveshaft to be packed with grease to eliminate the clunk sounds.

[@reidb1234]

narcoticrex I am right GM had taken that tsb away and put in place a new one which is replace the front drive yoke with the nickel plated yolk because of damage that it "could" potentially cause

[@narcoticrex]

from what i have seen thats just for 4wd models they removed that bulletin but that is an important point, it appears the best fix is a rubber ball inside the drive shaft

[@marcmiller477]

I installed the nickel plated yoke 5yrs ago and the clunk stopped for a while but it's making the clunking noise again so save your money.. and don't buy a piece OF SHIT GM TRUCK...

[@lucho3410]

Ugh!!! I got goo in my eye!!!

[@onekeyngabolang7984]

2021 now

[@kalefree6007]

Ole boy umm umm umm umm umm umm umm umm umm umm umm umm umm damn son

[@trevorferguson8271]

DO NOT DO THIS. I simply changed my transfer case fluid and it no longer makes the yoke clunk. This is dumb and puts grease with your fluid. If you have money for a new transfer case go for it because grease is not meant to be in there. But try changing fluid first if that doesn’t work change the slip yoke. NOT THIS. This is DUMB.

[@meddemongalaxy691]

2019 today

[@dh7300]

whats cost for this

[@carmac1652]

What ??? Look

[@rcastanaga]

Could you drill it without taking it apart?

[@eidolonofficial]

Nooo

[@Bigjamez2011]

Well this is a bad idea !

[@wolfrh1]

See TSB #99-04-20-002J. Normal

[@nickbowles8215]

Bad idea.

[@BigDaddy-hl5qt]

Why would you do that. Fantastic way to destroy the motor mounts.😆😆😆

[@jeffscott3160]

Uhm yeah, NO. Just don't do this. There is no internal seal to keep the grease from mixing with your T-case fluid and you DO NOT want grease in your T-case. Pretty sure GM came out at one point with an updated TSB and said this is not a recommended repair.