Reloading Can Be Dangerous. Hurt from a Reloaded Cartridge.

Reloading Can Be Dangerous. Hurt from a Reloaded Cartridge.

[@PilotMcbride]

Well said young fella, great message, can't fault it. Been shooting for close on 50 years, been reloading from the late 70s. The very first advice I was given when I started using centrefire, and still follow it today, and that is, "never, ever shoot anyone else's reloads in your firearm. EVER." Every reloaded bullet is checked and measured be it rifle (45-120, 45-70, 303, 22-250) or pistol (9mm, 357). Thanks and cheers from downunder. (got another subscriber)

[@mrgearheadfromhell]

I got the L.E. Wilson head space gauges to verify resizing and check for trimming if needed. While it does add another step to the reloading process I feel it adds a measure of safety for my firearm and myself.

[@rfdillon]

I, too use a Wilson case gauge to test each round, and when determining the overall length, I do the plunk test by dropping a round into a gun's chamber, ensuring that not only will it chamber effortlessly, but then rotate the cartridge to ensure it rotates freely in the chamber, and doesn't get hung up in the leade, the rifling at the end of the chamber.

[@rick5078]

ammo checks/gauges are your best friend when reloading.

[@mpccenturion]

I can appreciate your perspective. I had the introduction to loading, by a long retired guy. His advice was to take one firearm and obviously one caliber and load just it, for a year. And if I never fired more than 1000 rds, to start the next year and shoot until I had done this. I started with a Lee loader and a hammer and scale. I loaded and shot 2K rds in 2 years. With a mallet, I easily saw my mistakes, when I forget to chamfer the case or case length was off, or seated bullets were wrong. He told me to start with rifle cases, as they were more forgiving. Rimmed magnum handgun was a good second or third year project. His advice was to avoid semi-auto's until I had about 5 years in. Again - one pistol, one caliber. What I found, was that each chamber gave me specific cues as to what it needed. Now I started in 78. Only the last ten, have I shot a semi, and yet I see loaded ammo that for lack of a better word, frankly scares me. I have been an RO, on a line where a Glock in 357 Sig, almost chambered a reload. That shooter admitted he loaded them, the night before. We luckily had several RO's who could take him aside and deal with it safely. Recall years ago when everyone was polishing their feed ramps with Dremil tools. How do I know it is too much? When I start blowing out sidewalls. [Not the safest way to determine safety of ammo or firearm? The case that came out of this 357S - glock - I saw - the case had expanded into the feed ramp enough to split the case longitudinally and across the head. A split second look, should have culled the unloaded case, but how it was the loaded -passing the full-length sizer? I continue to use single stage presses, because my fingers can feel problems, my eyes and a micrometer can do the rest. Cheers!

[@machinegreen1413]

Thanks for reminding us that if we're not thorough and don't pay attention we can get hurt. Excellent video.

[@jamesvatter5729]

How on earth did this video get 65 thumbs down? Good video! Safety first.

[@daveb9370]

I always check the powder charge, seating depth and crimp on at least the first 5-10 rounds, then every 10-20 after I get going. I check on my Dillon and Hornady progressives and on my single stage. Never had a failure at the range. The only problem I run into is bulges at the base from used/range brass. I now run any range and used brass thru the Lee bulge buster. I hear stories of reloaders getting hurt or gun blown up from not checking thru reloading. I also check each round visually, checking every case for a seated primer, on the way to ammo storage. I have had several primers missing, and always caught it. Please be careful when reloading. Your safety and others' safety depends on your dilligence. Great video and tips. Also, please keep learning as you reload and take notice of how every round fired sounds, recoils, and even smells. You can learn alot by doing that and paying attention to your reloads. There are some pretty bad and pretty good opinions and knowledge on the interwebs, so don't take everything you hear as truth. Research and experiment safely. Shoot straight my friends.

[@daveb9370]

faultroy It is a simple kit that uses the body of the seating die. You remove the insert and put in Lee’s insert. Then you simply feed the cases or finished rounds from the bottom and use the ram to push them up through the die into a cup that sits on top of the die. It removes bulges from the case caused by unsupported chambers. You must inspect cases for splits etc. You can find this kit online. There should be videos on youtube also.

[@daveb9370]

faultroy kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5yQqWyYg5qIm8k

[@lunaticrider209]

Thanks for the reloading size tips!

[@anthony10370]

I'm just getting into reloading (ordering equipment) thank you for making this video. I know its not something people typically like to talk about but it's extremely valuable information that everybody needs to know. For me this is even more reason to reload as I have had factory ammunition with some of these problems in the past.

[@sandhollowhomestead6972]

Great video. Loading for three years so I am beginner and have experienced your examples. I've tossed some brass to learn the hard way. I won't take questionable ammo to range to shoot regardless if it's reloaded or factory. Pistol was easier but my 30-06 was touchy. I've bought the right dies and tools and books which made a lot of difference. Appreciate your advice.

[@maddog9291]

A round checker cost $31 bucks well worth the money ,if that round wont fall in the block throw it in the no go pile and retrieve the components and move on, and as far as 9mm go's ,I rarely load 9mm I can buy it cheaper than I can load it, except for a higher end round then I load all my own brass and use quality components and then it's checked with my bullet check block, just what I do to each his own, be safe

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Excellent info, Thanks for putting that out. There is always something that many may not know. There is always a tidbit I learn from listening to guys like Reloader Dude. Nobody want to get hurt .

[@chrisjones9128]

Good message. I learned this the hard way going from a Glock barrel to Lone Wolf and had to almost beat the gun to pieces to get the rounds to free. Thank you for trying to help others.

[@2541968joey]

Good solid information thanks for your time. In my reloading using a Forrester single stage press, I'm doing .380s/9mm/.38spl & .44 magnum for my S&W 629 & Henry level action rifle. Got a surprise when I loaded a bunch of .44s and they would not load in the Henry. Worked well in the 629. Found out that the COL was just barely too long for the Henry so with a light load just had to seat slightly deeper. You just need to be on top of the task to do it well.

[@curtiswest4272]

Good points. Too much flare causes bulge too and more often than lack of flare (depending on the dies and crimp setting). Lee 3 die pistol dies are a good example. Flare them too much and the bulge happens below the crimp. That's why I suggest a Lee Factory Crimp Die (yeah I know some people think they are for nubes) for reloading straight wall pistol cartridges . If a person sets up an LEE FCD they usually never see the bulge issue at the nose end of a bullet.

[@jasonwilcox2245]

Great video and great information to a new reloader. Thank you.

[@mongonius]

Great vid. Thanks!

[@vaughnprecision]

Good info.. I've had this happen with a Lone Wolf barrel I had in my Glock 17. The factory barrel will eat anything, but the Lone wolf was having this same issue.

[@dannybeeler9817]

Getting back in it after 45 years thanks for the info

[@jacobbrown9114]

Finally a reloader that is realistic and shows real world situations. I am just now getting into reloading and have figured out o.a.l from the manual is irrelevant when it comes to bullets from various manufacturers. The only way to figure it out like you said is find that sweet spot where the round plunks in and slides out. I have even had some hard cast for 9mm that needed to be loaded down to 1.02 simply because the shoulder is so close to the cone they have to be!

[@308sniper860]

thank,s I just learned something! I will be watching your stuff from now on.

[@edsantos3019]

Dude after seen numerous reloading videos I have to take my hat off to you after Elvis Ammo you are the second reloader I subscribe to and probably cause I didn't came accross your channel first. Amazing content! If there's one thing I've learned in life is how to identify a Master and is very simple Masters always put everything even the things the master to doubt, revision and re analysis since they never ever assume they know it all even when they do.

[@Rowrin]

13:00 Something thing I discovered shortly after starting out is that one really needs to cross reference load data using multiple sources. One manual might just have some weird data, or had some weird unaccounted variables when acquiring their data. Perhaps their test barrel was an outlier and had looser-than-normal tolerances, etc. In my case, the Lyman 50th anniversary edition has some really funky load data for Ramshot True Blue. For instance, the Lyman 9mm starting load for 115 xtp is way above the max load published in the Lee 2nd edition as well as above max from Ramshot's own published data; It's actually just above the starting recommended load for +P in both. After seeing this, I did a quick google search. I did ended up finding a few posts of reloaders who were using the Lyman starting load and were concerned about the felt recoil being noticeably above factory.

[@Aligums]

The accordion effect happens because you haven't properly flared the case for proper seating. It also could mean that the case is defective or has outlived it's spanlife and is no effective.

[@Hugh_Hunt]

It all comes down to not properly trimming your cases. Differences in case length, skew the flair on the case. Nice video!

[@redraiderreloading7612]

I'm beginning to get more interest into reloading. I'm glad I found this channel

[@TheReloaderDude]

larry k webb well thank you but since KZbin has made us remove all of the reloading instruction videos it will not be as easy. I have other place that I post reloading videos. Sub here and follow at the ReloadersNetwork.com. Links are in the new videos description box.

[@dongayanamarasinghe4559]

Good information! Well explained! Thanks for sharing.

[@jmfa57]

I've been reloading for over 40 years, and it was only this month that I bothered to purchase max cartridge gauges for my 45 ACP and 9mm. I should've done that... oh, Gosh, 40 years ago? My chambering problems went away.

[@kirkboswell2575]

I agree that chamber checking your rounds in your barrel is a good idea. But I think its better to chamber check them in a factory chamber die. Then you don't have to worry about which gun you pick up. If a round is good in a factory die, but too tight for your barrel, then your barrel needs attention. But using your barrel until you can afford that factory chamber die is a good start. A Dillon press is too much for a newcomer to reloading. Too much, too fast, too intense for a newcomer. They haven't had a chance to "learn the basics", or to learn the reasons and principles behind those basics. Or to learn patience and focus while reloading. Its like turning a kid loose with a Ferrari before they've passed their driver's test. I always teach with a single stage press. I'll demonstrate each step, explain the reasons for this step, and then remove and reset the die to neutral and have the newcomer set up and adjust, and perform that operation on a box of cases. Then on to the next step. The next session I observe and prompt. The third session I observe only, but I'll set aside any cases that might have issues. I always tell the newcomer to never reload for someone else - always only shoot your own reloads. Then, after getting a box together, we go to the range. Shooting rounds they put together themselves is like a right of passage or something. It usually results in them getting their own equipment.

[@Rgrrgr175]

Thanks for being thourough. I see what must be a bunch of millenials in the comments telling you to get to the point. The point includes wisdom and if they had a bit of patience, they might learn more instead of getting a snippet of info and not getting the experience that go with it. That why the gen is having such a hard time.

[@TheReloaderDude]

abcdef abcdef I totally agree. And that is why they never actually learn anything. They never learn the whys or the how's something works or doesn't work. They don't understand thought or reasoning just the quick fix answer. Then if they experience a problem it's the items fault not theirs. :-)

[@lauraspitz440]

I'am no millenial, but please stop using that term to discriminate. As if one group of generations consits of humans who all behave the same. -------------------------------------------- Nice + informative video Mr. Reloader and greetings from Germany

[@TexboyGamer]

@@TheReloaderDude boomers have a habit of over exaggerating their expertise. You come off as arrogant at points in this video, and didn’t format it in an effective manner. You should get to the point early and then explain the why after.

[@jalbert9613]

Thank you. Your videos help

[@edwardpetty5401]

Thank you for this important information.

[@raptorshootingsystems3379]

Over the last 25 years of shooting competition and designing ammunition, one of the most dangerous misstatements I have heard is “Published load data is always conservative because of lawyers so it ok to start at the top published loads” In speaking with engineers at powder manufactures, the starting 10% below guidance is based on variances in powder manufacturing lots that can create a +/- 10% variance between lots. Following this guidance, when you have a faster lot, starting 10% below puts you in the mid point of that +/- 10% range. I have witnessed with multiple different powers this +/- 10% variance when changing powder lots whether it is seeing a charge needing to be increased by 5% to achieve the same performance or an identical charge generating significantly higher velocity and when measuring the brass, significant case web expansion was documented. I have heard further guidance that advises starting 15% below especially with faster burning powders that can see pressure increase faster with minimal increases in charge weight. Remember, powder manufacturers as well as larger ammunition manufacturers use SAAMI compliant pressure test equipment. This includes use of a Universal pressure breech, piezo pressure transducers and advance software and electronics to measure pressure at multiple points in the barrel. In addition, the barrels used are SAAMI compliant test barrels meaning that they manufactured to precise measurements for bore and groove size as well as location of the piezo transducers. Whenever changing powder lots, or any component lot, it takes a minimal amount of time and effort to reduce the charge weight retesting the performance levels at each charge weight and compare it to historical data. This is exactly what larger ammunition manufacturers do daily before going to production of a new lot of ammunition and once a production lot is completed, they repeat tests testing samples of the production lot before authorizing release of the production lot for packing and shipment. I can say that every incident I have seen with handloaded ammunition has been the result of not following well established safe loading principles. Whether it has been not testing when changing component lots or not inspecting before going to the next loading step.

[@stacks4943]

Thanks for sharing..! 👍

[@Les0945]

I had the same problem with case bulge on loading some 124 gr hornaday xtp, some would fit the case guage some would not. I noticed what looked like brass shavings in my finished round bin. After taken a couple apart I cold see were I shaved some of the copper jacketing off. like you said opened up a little more flare and had no problems. Excellent video and advice !

[@TheReloaderDude]

Les0945 thank you. I am glad it helped... :-)

[@PsychoFisho]

I don't like to flare more than barely necessary to start the bullet, in order to reduce excess fatigue on the case neck. Possibly better solution than excessive flaring is to use separate dies to seat the bullet and then taper crimp. This will reduce both bullet jacket/lead bullet shavings, as well as reduce case wall folding. Redding dies for seating and dies for taper crimping are awesome (and expensive). If you are having problems with case failure during bullet seating, you can place a quantity of bullets face up on aluminum foil and apply a light spray of case lube on opposite sides. I said Light coat of lube, more like a quick misting.

[@ramblerman6832]

Just my .02 centavos. Thanks for being on the side of freedom!

[@Dcook85]

Head space gauges are crucial for catching these mistakes especially for newbies like me. Checking both width and length. Of course the COL still needs to verified with Calipers. Cycling a few rounds through your gun (in a safe direction) at home is not a bad idea either.

[@TheReloaderDude]

Tregeta watch my video on chamber checking your reloads. Good info for you. Welcome to the Reloading Club!!! TRD

[@pjnealon3476]

Thanks for sharing. Good info to know.

[@terrywalker7127]

OMG I am so glad I found you. I changed out my Glock factory barrel to a Storm Lake barrel. I have had 2 squibs: First: bullet just logged in the mouth of the barrel and thank God for that. Kept me from chambering another round. Second squib happened to be the last cartridge in the magazine. NOW also: I am trying to load a subsonic load on my .40 S&W for a suppressor. So I am using Alliant BE-86 and their recipe calls for 6.6 grains (TOO HOT). I kept working it down and got to 4.8 grains. Now I am increasing the load to 5.4 grains. BUT: I will also chamber check load FIRST. So, I installed a RCBS lock-out die on my Hornady AP and then realized that would NOT stop a load that is just below the threshold. Also the RCBS lock-out die keeps getting powder caked on the tip of the plunger and drops powder all over the rotating shell plate. RCBS suggested using a static free dryer sheet. Did that and made no difference. This is why I am out on KZbin searching for a solution because I have lost my confidence in reloading (or maybe being wise for a change). NOW: I have some things to look for: Chamber checking my reloads. I have been loading OAL for .40 S&W of 1.125 and have not been crimping my cases. Will change OAL to 1.12 and I also got a Redding taper crimp die. I am using a Redding RX- bulge die to remove the bulge from the base of the case prior to reloading. But I have been using almost NO flair. SO I will increase the flair just a bit to possibly eliminate any "accordion effect" near the base of the case. Also had a few issues with my reloads would NOT chamber at all. Would make it about 45 degrees and not continue to chamber. I did measure my OD of the loaded case and it is .002 - .003 larger than factory ammo. Another reason I bought the Redding taper die. Hanging my head in embarrassment. But picking myself up and dusting myself off and now feel that I have a good mentor in reloading. So Sir: if you would please give me feed back, would be most appreciative. Respectfully, Terry

[@TheReloaderDude]

Terry Walker first dont compare any reload to factory round. Each bullet requires it own data. Second watch the COL in certain barrels you might have to go shorter. Third stop with the subsonic reloading. Reload to Power Factor. It will give you a consistency to shoot for to create workable rounds yet still give you the velocity that you are looking to achieve.

[@baugwan1]

The problem I have when I clean the brass, is that there is always some corn cob stuck in the flash hole. How do you deal with that problem? Why don’t you do a video about what happens when you reload a rifle round and tumbling media remains/lodged in the brass. How it effects pressure, accuracy, and how likely it is to blow up the gun. You make awesome videos and I'm most grateful for all the work you do.

[@elementandy88]

nice video man i been reloading for good bet now and i agree with everything you said and have also ran in too alot of the same prob anyone who is new take in all this its grate info that i wish i would have had when i started

[@TheReloaderDude]

elementandy88 thank you. I appreciate your support. 😀 TRD

[@edadpops1709]

A dillon press makes everything happen way to fast, for the new reloader, sure you can crank them out quick but the assumption is every round is correct. For a new reloader a lee classic or even the great redding is what i suggest to new guys. They allow you to check at any stage.They must check each round and assume nothing . Just my thoughts. Great and correct tip on flaring .

[@TheReloaderDude]

Edad Martin awesome comment. Thanks for watching.

[@jasonwilcox2245]

I am working with an RCBS single stage press and take everything one step at a time. I'm researching reloading .357 sig for the first time, any tips? I dry pressed a round in empty brass just to check the action and the round went way deep. Thoughts? I am fairly new to this and any constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.

[@scottperson9487]

RCBS is a great first press as you will still use it after you move up to a Dillon. The Lee will end up on eBay or in a garage sale.

[@404React_Media]

TRD could you send the the link on the Chamber check video that you mention in this video. I could not find it going though your videos. Thanks,

[@denniswilliams8747]

Hi When I first got my 1911 .45 I scavenged a bunch of brass at the range. My first reloads did not chamber properly. The slide did not always go completely forward into battery. With a push, sometimes a hard push the slide would go the rest of the way. My reloads were a hair shorter than standard factory loads,, so the bullets were seated deep enough. I found Lee had a full length case reszer. The regular resize die did not take care of the base enough. The lee die uses a push rod to push the case all the way through the die and out the top. The die will work OK on loaded cases. Problem solved. Some 45s apparently have oversize chambers and cases will form to the big chamber.

[@TheReloaderDude]

Dennis Williams you need to watch more videos. Just because they are seated shorter than factory doesn't mean anything. Its were the ogive of your particular bullet is located.

[@keyfitter]

Working up loads to maximum is always a good idea. I loaded some .44 Mag brass starting with the max powder weight with H110. Little did I realize that the data called for a .429 diameter bullet and the Hornady XTP being .430 diameter would make much difference. Fortunately all I got was serious signs of excessive chamber pressure and the revolver not coming apart in pieces.

[@stevekopcial129]

Great learning experience...Thanks

[@roundreloading1233]

Sick Video Man!

[@Stonehombre1]

Excellent video, very informative. I've also been loading for a long time and one of the biggest issues I had was A-MERC brass. Not sure what they did to start with, but when trying to reload the round it NEVER chambered correctly. So when I come across this brass it immediately goes in the trash :-)

[@joegasparro2395]

Dies coming loose in a $700 reloading press?? That is a ridiculous thing to have to worry about when you are in that price range for a press. I have a LEE single stage that cost $80 and I have never and will never have to worry about dies coming loose.

[@TheReloaderDude]

Joe Gasparro well there are two reasons for this; a) lee dies have a o-ring that creates a seal, and B). You don't reload enough at a given session. Even my Dillon dies come loose and have to be checked. Especially when loading high round counts.

[@themanwiththeplan128]

This is why u buy a dillion and set it to what u want then lock tight the dies in place loaded over 5000 9mm in 1 go and all dropped in the chamber cheak btw it took me about 1/2 a day with my Dillon 1100 also on there cost side of thing I load a 147 grain cast bullet and of course powdercoated shooting 2.8 grains tight group with cci primers my cost is about 48-50 bucks a 1000 and they tell me reloading 9mm is a wast of time

[@MichaelMoore-od4jz]

case gauges are a great thing

[@Tricksofatrade]

Hay my man just received my second order of acme 124 grain round nose green coated can u recommend a tight group amount and overall length using mixed add stamps and CCI small rifle primers all I could find in the primers and powder my first order was 100 147 grain flat nose coded from Acme had had to make them pretty short for I subscribed last night watched a couple of your videos and where in quite a bit thanks a lot manmy Canik I seen one of your videos on the new profile and you said 101. o I subscribed last night I watched a video or two thanks for sharing the info

[@FATL0L0]

I had the same problem with my 9MM kimber ultra ages 2 the tolerances are a lot tighter on them Kimbers and my 124gr lead balls would stick on the rifling but on everything else work fine !!

[@contreeman]

GREAT INFORMATION BROTHER GOD BLESS

[@JMazterV112]

Hey Reloader Dude I have question can i using a foundry melt steel bottle caps to mold 9mm caps to reload my bullets or is it risky biz?

[@farmerdude3578]

I just remove the barrel from my Cz and use it for a case check.

[@LAZSLOSHTOWN]

Thank you

[@faithful53]

Iam trying to reload 300 BO tracer pulled bullets. I noticed they have a cavity and are longer than a 150gr bullet( they are 147gr). I have check the Lee load info and Hornady. Lee suggests higher amounts. But neither are listing tracers. I was going to try 14gr H110 with OAL 2.185

[@baker1015sb]

wow, thanks for this. have had this problem loading Montana gold 124gr for my Sphinx. i have to load to 1.07 for it to function and about 1out of 20 would have a bulge at the base of the bullet on one side. it would lock that thing up just like you described. this gives me some things to consider now that I hadn't thought of before. thanks again!

[@tjmooremusic]

Hi. thanks for the video. In regards to case bulging I have heard very good things about the Lee factory crimp die solving g that problem. any thoughts on that?

[@TheReloaderDude]

tjmooremusic i have found that case bulge is more due to not flaring the brass enough casing the case to bow out. I do like the lee crimp die for securing the bullet into the case so it does not slip with recoil.

[@txarmory2394]

Those 7/8 nut looking things that come with your dies are in fact nuts! They make things called wrenches that work on nuts. Tighten down your die bodies in your tool heads and you will not have dies coming loose!

[@TheReloaderDude]

TXARmory well OK smart ass. Glad we got that striate. 🤦‍♂️

[@scottperson9487]

Spend the $15 and buy a tool head for each caliber so you can set them and forget them too. If that is too hard get lock nuts with a set screw.

[@AlaskanMissions]

The unknown danger of reloading! I got heavy metal toxicity from spent brass and in particular from primers. The stuff you clean out of your spent brass and spent primers is toxic. Treat it as so. It takes time, (years) to build up in your system. Doctor ask me if I was a reloader. Beware and be safe.

[@brandonbravo8198]

Thx 4 the tip

[@memes.5593]

Thank you sir I was worrying about that, I'll make sure to work in a ventilated area with proper ppe

[@ericvantassell6809]

I came to the same habit about die checking when loading primers on the dillon after having to break a bunch of out of spec rounds

[@nicholasceea4109]

Excellent video! What is a race gun and why do they load them hot?

[@chriskelly509]

Nicholas CeeA load them hot to meet major power factor.

[@Rowrin]

I have that exact same chair at my office...

[@mattcleech]

I'm new to reloading, are there any books you'd suggest for specs and techniques?

[@TheReloaderDude]

Matthew Leech The Handbook of Reloading Basics by Robin Sharpless. And the Sierra Load Data manual. As well as the reloading manual of the Brand of bullets you are going to shoot the most.

[@mobilejonny]

Amen... some great information here. Respect the reload... or it will turn on you!

[@jamesiannelli1669]

I am getting case bulge with my 45 acp, with one case brand. Not much, but enough to not feed. Thinking i can adjust my crimping.

[@TheReloaderDude]

I have a video on .45acp problem solver.. just a quick synopsis.. it usually can be fixed with a better crimp... not sure with your exact issue

[@BlackdogADV]

Good video but I have a question on setting up the sizing die. I have a Dillon 550 and it says to raise the platform so it touches the shellplate. It doesn’t say to cam over. I think cam over is fine for a single stage or turret press but not a Dillon 550.

[@BlackdogADV]

Also, Dillon says to adjust till it touches for pistol but back off 1/2 turn for rifle dies. So positively no cam over.

[@TheReloaderDude]

BlackdogGS correct. The Dillons with shell plates do not use the cam over method. It will actually where it out and is not made for cam over.

[@scottperson9487]

It is because Dillon presses are hard stop presses, not cam over presses. Kind of hard to cam over a press that doesn't cam over.

[@MPGunther1]

good info

[@g4meplayonly]

Most of the time my wallet gets hurt....

[@xraykid4]

Had a casing (9mm) blow up at the base, causing two frags. One was the primer and actually base. The slide seized up. What was the malfunction caused by do you think? I could send a photo of the shell casing

[@TheReloaderDude]

xraykid4 sure send it. [e-mail]

[@thevikno]

driving could be dangerous if you dont know what you are doing.

[@stanmankovich822]

I'm a new Reloader and have a question... I am interested in loading with powder charges lighter than the published starting loads... Is there a suggested percentage of the starting loads that I can use as a fail safe start?

[@TheReloaderDude]

stan Mankovich yes. There is. It is call the lightest load with published load data. Dont try to reinvent the wheel as a new reloader. Use the publish load data available and learn to do it correctly before trying new things.

[@KD-uq1hn]

All semi auto pistols... use the plunk test.. drop in barrel (removed from gun of course) and it should go in easy and you should be able to rotate it easily. if not its engaging the rifling. Simple test.

[@caleblong2918]

What model is the green rcbs press in front of you on this video?

[@TheReloaderDude]

Caleb Long It is not RCBS. It is a Redding T7. Highly recommended.

[@caleblong2918]

@@TheReloaderDude thanks alot, i actually looked it up last night after i made the post and realized it was a redding, it looks like something that would be an amazing starter set up, buy once cry once!

[@thunder0ne100]

subscribed good info for Noob reloading like me

[@redraiderreloading7612]

I wanting to start reloading and the calibers i sboot most are 9mm. 40 and 357 sig.. what are the best dies...

[@TheReloaderDude]

larry k webb Best dies for a beginner or best dies? Beginner-Lee. Best-Redding.

[@Johnyrocket70]

pistol reloading only is a different breed, not as many steps as rifle ammo, they should measure the coal for every round.

[@Portuguese-linguica]

Is that a Dillon Reloading press in the background?

[@bungalobill7941]

My Kimber 1911 9mm will not chamber polymer coated bullets. Always take down your pistol and check bullet fit in the barrel chamber whenever shooting a new brand/type of bullet. It can be dangerous because a round could fire while the gun is out of battery

[@PsychoFisho]

You can. But you have to spray lube the batch of bullets and run them through a bullet sizer before using them to handload. You don't need a heated bullet sizer press. You can just Lee bullet sizing dies (part of kit) which will work on any press.

[@josecanisales3491]

New reloader on a Dillon PROGRESSIVE press, THAT'S THE PROBLEM RIGHT THERE. aLWAYS START ON A SINGLE PRESS TO KNOW THE DIFFERENT STEPS/FUNCTIONS.

[@b0lbi]

In my experience if you take your time and stick to published data you will seldom have a problem. A lot of the race guys push pressures to the limit and do compressed loads to get power factor and I feel that is where the danger really lies

[@One-Crazy-Cat]

Damn that audio sounds like it’s recorded in a men’s room.

[@airride379]

Great video but lone wolf barrels are also not fully supported and will give you troubles when reloading

[@TheReloaderDude]

Richard Irving never once had an issue with Lone Wolf barrels. I have two competition pistols that both have them and I have fired thousands of rounds. All they have ever fire were reloads. Thks for watching.

[@warlockcommandcenter]

You said he had the weapon going into battery and it locked up the weapon. That's can't be right because if it is in battery it should fire not jam. I have my original old steel sizing die in station 4 after my bullet seater. This cleans up any excess flare from the powder measure.

[@TheReloaderDude]

Frederick Kaludis after the first cartridge fires it will eject that round and feed into the chamber a different cartridge. If that cartridge COL is to long it will jam the bullet into the rifling causing the firearm to seize up. At that point it will not fire nor eject the cartridge without force. The amount of force required to release the firearm will normally pull the bullet out of the case.

[@davidminshew6117]

If you read instructions that come with a KIMBER thay tell you untill you have shot at least 500 rounds you will have failure to feed or failure to eject. The 500 round are the break in for a kimber.

[@Dimagiorp]

"The KZbin" 😂😂😂😂😂 fuckin old people crack me up

[@1987foxl90]

I have a question for you Reloader Dude. I bought some .45 ACP bullets and after reloading them I came across the same problem you had in your video....... They wouldn't drop in the chamber freely. They went in only after I Taper Crimped the bullet. I really crimped it though to get it to drop in . Is there a problem with crimping a bullet too much? The bullets were 230 gr FMJ no cannelure. Thanks for your help.

[@nobs846]

I think when he set his powder die he should have gone and rechecked the resizing die on the Dillion 650 ..

[@mikeaze423]

If you have time to go more in detail about the 9mm competition ammo to show in detail what to look for

[@TheReloaderDude]

mikeaze423 go to my 9mm reloading playlists. There are tons of 9mm reloading vids there

[@darrellblanchard2362]

Title says it all. You can pinch the crap out of your fingers if your not carefull.

[@john.dlugos4580]

Lone Wolf barrels suck. I had all kinds of issues with 45apc. Got a KKM barrel and all my problems are gone.

[@edsantos3019]

On a side note do you have a video that can clarify the pros and cons of Powder coat Led bullets and Jacketed Bullets. Cause last time I researched this topic well Jacketed Bullets were designed to go farther distances but I'd love to hear your opinion on this new powder coat trend.

[@TheReloaderDude]

Ed L Santos first thanks for the encouraging words on the previous comment. I have several videos on powder Coating and Cast Bullets. Check them out along with the hi-tech coated Bullets video. I have a surprise coming soon on cast bullets. It may be of some interest to help you start casting your own. :-)

[@edsantos3019]

Thank you and I will watch the video soon. I guess what I want to know is in your opinion are powder coat bullets as good as full metal jacket.....terms of distance, and led leakage or do they hold up their physical integrity as effective as a full metal jacket (given you do a outstanding job in the powder coating process??? That's my bottom line question cause if they do forget it Imma aim to master powder coat bullets.....I don't know I have suttle tell they're as good cause they so popular I mean maybe they dont neccesarily let me use those in certain matches or competitions but if they do the job recreational wise who gives a shit lol

[@liqurmeup]

To sum up this whole video check check and check your shit. If your not checking ever few rounds or so then you are wrong.

[@4sapphireb]

Sir maybe you could use some EarPods or microphone. There is a lot of echo

[@TheReloaderDude]

May New Moon watch the newest videos. 😁

[@johnwilliams40]

the new Lee crimp dies will take the bulge out of .45 acp ,9mm luger ect. when using cast/jacketed bullets

[@johnwilliams40]

Lee no longer recommends this because it cracked the carbide ring/but it did this after thousands of rounds(this used to be on Lees site but is not any more because the carbide ring got cracked),but a 9mm Makarov carbide crimp die will take the glock bulge from your 9 mm cases and then the carbide 9 mm luger crimp die will take the wrinkles out of the brass if your using cast bullets/some cases running through the mak crimp die will be tight so I put a touch of lube on the die and it runs through fine,....the mak die will size the rim of the 9mm case and before someone says I'm crazy I've done the measurements before running the case through the mak die and after and it does size the rim of the case .

[@klimatbluffen23]

🇸🇪👍👍👍👍👍🇸🇪

[@dylanl9532]

I don't think if I were him, I would continue reloading after the injury

[@fishrrelaxing9361]

You could've made this video 2min long by simply explaining not all chambers are same size especially aftermarket barrels that get their accuracy by leaving less room between the bullet and rifling.

[@TheReloaderDude]

john smith Maybe you should read the comments below because another viewer and I explained exactly opposite of what you are saying. In my opinion what you are saying is plumb ridicules. Thanks for watching. The quick fix answer gives absolutely nothing and zero experience is passed on.

[@fishrrelaxing9361]

If what im saying is ridiculous I question your ability to even explain the issue cause what I said was spot on. Either the case wasn't resized which I'm ignoring cause that is simple enough any 4yo could do it and even then only results in a stuck casing in the chamber or the barrel was swapped for a non factory on (seeing how this person was shooting comps I see this as highly probable) and most aftermarket barrels have tighter chamber specs in relation to overall length to achieve the most accuracy. It's common practice and knowledge. Even more so with glocks as anyone who reloads glocks with aftermarket barrels knows they have to shorten the OAL a little. My point is you talked in circles about 10 different things and only two simple things needed to be addressed which you never fully covered either completely.

[@TheReloaderDude]

john smith so just what You said would have taken more than two minutes to explain in a video. So that tells me once again that the video would have taken more than 2 minutes! By the way, if you would actually be watching the videos that followed this video, every point that you made HAS been addressed. And as far as your 4 year old comment, every one has to start somewhere!! If you are such an intellectual reloading genius then why are you not making reloading videos and sharing that knowledge? And if your so knowledgeable why are you watching this channel? Since your so much more of a knowledgeable than any other reloader, why waste your time?

[@fishrrelaxing9361]

I did actually address the issue by responding to your video. No need to make my own it's easier to correct mistakes then Teach from scratch. You are correct that I didn't finish video as it beat around the bush talking about a bunch of things that were not really important. Just cause someone chambers a load doesn't mean they will understand why it doesn't work. Also case bulge is irrelevant to this issue and is a product of piss poor resizing. You did address the issue but then followed up by talking non sense about budge that should be in a reloading 101 video not a specific to the issue here. I actually blame this on the community as a whole especially reloading books that don't directly and clearly address barrel changes. Granted they can't address how to adjust powder and OAL for every aftermarket barrel but they could mention that comp barrels are going to have a much tighter chamber and include a recommended safe OAL and include checking headspace disclaimer to confirm. To your credit you did address this only you did it for about 6sec and passed over it and then went back to rambling about primers, and budge cases at which point I stoped watching. For those reading.. 1.12 is std for all factory 9mm.. a factory glock has a 1.4 chamber. (About the largest on the market) Many aftermarket barrels are flawed as they sized the chamber to 1.2 needing a 1.115ish OAL as a general safety sizing. Honestly it's a faulty barrel manufacturer not meeting min specs of the gun for even factory ammo. Doing this in a handgun is completely stupid. Rifles are the only guns that should have such tight tolerance chambers and even then the gun is headspaced specifically to one bullet design with one case and powder load for a specific OAL for accuracy. Even then this is the top 1% of 1000 yard plus comp shooters. Why anyone making a pistol barrel to these type of tolerances is beyond stupid. You can't even bench a pistol to enough accuracy tell the difference.