Removing Broken Bolts

[@dougspair]

This is the first I've seen of your videos, very nice job. I was a welder in a Machine/welding shop and we got a ton of 'Farmer' fix-it stuff nearly every day. 1 Welder, 6 machinists, we did a lot of cut off, then weld it up and re-machine, also a guy that spent all his day on hydraulic cylinders/pistons.

[@kentuckycowboy2]

So nice to hear you as a machinist acknowledge there's no shame in the bolt breaking off on the tech . We've been blamed & cursed more times than anyone would care to know after spending much unpaid time & agony trying to keep them from breaking . I agree completely there is a time to know when & where to stop messing with it & send it to you guys .

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment, I used the helicoils because the old thread were wasted by the corrosion and there was good material just outside the threaded area making it ok for inserting the helicoils, keeping the original size of thread and pitch. ;{)-----

[@mozzmann]

Keith I recently had a very similar job presented to me, Alloy Sump Pan on a small utility tractor and like your job, corrosion was precipitous to the repair but I opted to ream out the hole to clean material and used a hard steel insert, with whitworth thread on the outside, the only large Tap and Die combo I had available to me. I set this in place set with Loctite 601 and I then opted to replace the original UNC bolts into the alloy with 7/16 UNF into the steel insert.

[@willingtowork]

It's a delight to watch a true professional at work. It's amazing how easier a job is when you have the proper tools and know how. Thanks for sharing your trade. Take care.

[@KeithFenner]

Yep, your absolutely right, left handed bits do just that, i've done that many times, myself. I've also had, which i felt this was the case, a thread locked so tight, due to the salt corrosion, it would of just drilled a left handed hole and not caught the remainder of threads and failing to draw them out. I pretty much use the left handed drill trick on sheared off cases. If its a guaranteed threaded job for customer, new threads, no squeaks... Thanks for the Kudo's...Keith

[@MrDjdave1]

Hope a lot of yougins are watching your video's your a cool head great teacher. I was a 30 year Diesil Mechanic still learning right up to the day I retired. Great show.

[@DiesInEveryFilm]

Something satisfying about seeing things get tapped I love the look of nice new clean threads.

[@kevinxcal1]

Joy, i just had to remove 4 broken bolts in a boat lift motor due to being in saltwater and corroding solid. I was able to soak 2 bolts and get them out with an easy out. The other 2 i had to put a hole through the middle and broke 3 easy outs. To fix this i used a 1/8 carbide cutter and cut down the threads to make the broken bolt 2 pieces, it was easy to remove after that.

[@KeithFenner]

Welcome aboard and thanks for the Comment!

[@acoow]

In addition to what Mr. Fenner said, Helicoils are ideal for threading aluminum. They were originally developed from use in aluminum components in aircraft. They allow for a much stringer thread than the aluminum does. I know guys who will install helicoils in every hole if they have to install in one.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the comment, wouldn't of thought they would hold up being a spiral instead of a solid. what kinds of wood?

[@NOBOX7]

thanks for the input bro very good practice , i have striped aluminum engine blocks on small 2 cycle engines so i really appreciate the info small bolts are the worst as they strip the easiest i may get a kit for doing this , im a comercial carpenter by trade but im also the jobsite engineer and i just fixed a gas ax that had a loose carburator and it was a pivit seal with screws on the top only and a fulcrum on the bottom { junk} and i stripped it a little added 500 degree jb weld

[@whyturtleracer]

Keith, very complete offering as you are now considered the go to personality in this line of work. The videos are clear without jumping around, lighting is good and the you tuber can clearly see your work. Do you have an expensive camera and lighting set-up? What camera make and model are you using. Thank you for your response. Andy

[@KeithFenner]

Its a bit small on hole size to get down in the bottom and properly weld your way back out. the flange face is also a sealing surface, warpage may of been an issue. The coils keep it the orignal size... Its a good thought though...

[@KeithFenner]

Ahmed, Its pretty hard to make the call on the best way to remove it without seeing it. If some of the bolt is sticking above the surface I'd see if I could weld a nut to it, then heat the casting, to see if I could get it. If it was a flush break, center punch, using transfer punch set, with housing in place, to locate a good center, then drill minor thread size using left hand bit, just incase thats lucky, if remaining threads can't be removed by scribe and or tap, use Helicoil kit.

[@rattmann36863]

What a shop. Wish I had room for a set up like that.

[@KeithFenner]

Yes, I do recommend, anti- seize or Tef-Jell, which I think is a Superior product, when Stainless is used with Aluminum... If your going to use Stainless, use grade 316 S/S

[@KeithFenner]

I haven't made a video covering my removal techniques yet on removing bearing races and such but I had and will produce a video on it when the occasion arises. ;{)---

[@humourless682]

In this type of situation, its quite easy to remove a broken bolt, and the way to do this is to MIG weld a big enough blob of weld onto the broken bolt, to be able to grip with molegrips, and turn out the broken bolt as soon as the weld has cooled from red heat. Easy outs very rarely work, but the weld blob on bolt method seems to almost every time, and if you are lucky will also do the trick in your situation.

[@vodoocult]

Hi Keith, do you have any video of removing shell from a broken bearing with access on one side? If you didnt have already a video, in future in some occasion please make a video of it. btw you have the best videos here on YT thanks

[@Metalunique]

@IndisputableAttitude I agree. I too used the left handed bit for my motorcycle and it came out very easily.

[@Joe55darter]

"Bouquet of broken S**t" I've got to remember that one! What a description.

[@KeithFenner]

I'm just using a Canon Power Shot, and pick the best lighting angles Etc...

[@KeithFenner]

@member548 I haven't used any of those, but sounds like they would have their uses in pacific jobs. Cases like these salty, rusted, locked fasteners, have destroyed the base metals surounding the bolts. Typical in marine enviorments...

[@mohawkmike142]

Keith, I'd like to know what your recommendation is for drilling, tapping fluid on aluminum. Love the videos and learn a ton from them.

[@bx2200]

In situations like this, where corrosion and galling of the fasteners has been a problem, do you recommend using anti-seize or some other method of preventing a recurrence when you're re-assembling the repaired part? Would using stainless fasteners be a good idea, or would stainless interact badly with the aluminum?

[@acoow]

They make a tangless helicoi; too. The disadvantages are that you have to buy 1000 just to get the few you actually need, and you have to buy a tool for each size you use. The advantages are that you can install the tangless in a hole that can be drilled only as deep as needed which keeps you from being able to break off the tang. Another advantage is that you can order a tool that will allow you to back out the helicoil.

[@Cleftwynd]

I also like time-certs, I have even used them to repair spark plug threads in high performance aluminum heads. I have yet to see one fail.

[@Mork007]

Excellent, love your taste in music also.

[@mickcoomer9714]

I note that you remove the helicoil tap with your hand. This is the right way to do it as if you have any force pulling on the tap as lt leaves the hole it can tear the last bit of the thread. Nice work.

[@rotlerin]

In a machine shop - Beatles playing on the radio. Gee I'd be in heaven!!!

[@klmartin1962]

On small bolts like this, I check to see if they will come out with a small diamond point chisel. If not, drill time. I agree about ease outs. If you can drill a straight hole, why not get some new threads instead of reusing old ones. Great video.

[@MrCWH5]

Keith have you tried inserts instead of Heli coils? I have had many problems with Heli-coils over the years and now swear by inserts from Time-Sert. Yes they are a bit more expensive but I have never had a problem with one yet. Love all your vids!!

[@anonymousbrown]

Nice work. At least they let you heli-coil it. It sucks to have to cut it out and "have to" save the threads.

[@Porchduck]

Hey Keith, Do you ever use threaded inserts (W/the 4 stakes) instead of Heli-coils? If so, what determines use of one over the other? [Great Vids]

[@supersonictoast2822]

Hey!we listen to the same radio station when we work!

[@NOBOX7]

ok i no this is a dumb question but i didnt have time to pay attention to your whole vid, are you using hela coils because aluminum is soft or was it to return to the original tap size?? i was thinking you may of done it to make the threads there original size but wasn't sure. you are a very skilled individual and the question may sound dum but i learn allot from you and watch all your vids , im no machinist but i am well on my way, just need about $300,000 worth of equipment lol

[@KeithFenner]

I haven't used one of those kinds of inserts just because I've always been custom to the Heli-coils. Deciding pros and cons; Size and room, material type, downsizing existing good thread and what you may have on hand! ;{)---

[@lauolsen]

Hi Keith Why would you put in a Heli coil, when you’re able to drill out the old pin/bolt?

[@usefullsw]

Excellent video. My ONLY criticism is that you probably shouldn't have your fingers so close when you blow the shavings out of the hole with the air nozzle. It is possible to embed the shaving in your fingers that way.

[@caddypaddy13]

could you help me please, i have a broken bolt that was drilled out and an easy out put in and that broke too... its in my head its the rocker cover bolt... any advise would be great,,,

[@KeithFenner]

I would try and weld a build up on the easy out until you can weld on a nut and gently reverse it out and throw all your, easy outs away. Then drill the broken bolt out with tap size, If you were on center you may be able to take a scribe and needle nose pliers and pull out the remainder of threads, clean with tap. If not, drill out for same size Heli - coil ;{)-----

[@MrEh5]

Have you ever used Nes thread repair tools? I made a video about them.

[@kingflamez2095]

thx ... but the blot is made of strong steel & wont let the drill get in

[@JayzBeerz]

For an oil drain plug hole do recommend a heli-coil or an insert?

[@FishyCanada]

No thread lock on the heli's? I guess that's ok if they aren't planning on removing the part too often.

[@kingflamez2095]

i got 1 broken blot stuck in ma cars thermostat housing place & its hard 2 take it out kan u help

[@guubagaaba8391]

where the hell DID that drill bit go ????????????

[@hollisinman6989]

Where can you buy Alumatap can't find it anywhere thanks.

[@KeithFenner]

No I haven't used that brand, but have made a few myself over the years. I like Heli-coils, never had a problem with any that were installed correctly. If I was repairing a thread on a high heat project, like a turbo, I would go with the inserts and stay away from Stainless Steel it looses it holding toque due to the high heat. ;{)-----

[@mickcoomer9714]

And the Eagles in the background. My kind of workshop.

[@KeithFenner]

I like Alumatap on most all alum work, cutting and tapping. ;{)-----

[@snoopdog68]

weld a circle to the race then weld a nut, bolt or ready rod to the circle and pull it out.

[@eiclan]

oooooh look ,a Bridgport! lol Cheers Ross

[@ww321]

Thats when I get them . After breaking off a bit or tap in the hole.

[@jordanhollowdistillers3703]

I have no luck with heliciols. I use timeserts but I work on cars and never have a right angle, or drill press or enough room to get an angle drill in....It would just be nice one day if an "easy to get at bolt broke".......the timeserts make up for my inaccurate "handport" mill! Some exhaust studs on the back heads would cost more to remove the heads than the car is worth and we have to get creative sometimes to get emissions tests when they throw lean O2 codes at you with 3-4" room to the firewall and on and angle you cant see behind something.

[@MrBurt54]

Jordanhollowdistillers Cool Comment, real world stuff. My 99 van has a sheared off exhaust bolt and I can't "mill" it either. You should do a video of the "timesert" method....please!

[@jordanhollowdistillers3703]

go on ebay, buy timeserts read instructions. Use a drill stop and don't drill into water jacket. It's pretty straight forward. Sometimes you need a die grinder to flatten the bolt out so you can center punch it. A timesert is a barrel that expands like a pop rivet in the hole for lack of better wording and will work better "should" you be off center when drilling.

[@stanleydavis4584]

Burt Gill

[@ww321]

Something people can do at home is good penetrating fluid and a hammer. It takes a while but you can get them loose. Of coarse this is uneconomical in a shop trying to make a living. Great videos ! :)

[@CoolasIce2]

Excellant video. I'll have to watch the others.

[@guubagaaba8391]

one of the early ones... great video !!!!!!!! no bullshit attitude !!!!

[@joandar1]

Biggest probs I have is most come to me after they have broken a drill or screw extractor, (easy out, what a bad name) in the job and then ask for help! I have managed to save these because my Father and his also taught me to think outside the square. 1 on an Audi head stud I did recently with broken easyout in situ, off center I removed using a Tungsten tipped drill and several hrs of patience. Would have been easy if someone did not decide to save some money by DIY. Cheers from John.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for adding your comment with another option to the same kind of project! ;{)-----

[@mae951]

Actually you don't stainless steel bolts in aluminum - it's the worst thing you can do. There is a powerful galvanic corrosion that occurs, it will corrode aggressively and become impossible to remove in very short time, more so in a salty environment. The best bolts, I feel, for aluminum are Grade 8 bolts. They come with a gold cadmium coating that protects them from corrosion, including any galvanic reaction with the aluminum.

[@IgorSvedic]

"before you get your bouquet of broken shit in there" What a king... :D

[@GlaucioFermianoMarques]

MESTRE DOS MESTRES assim vejo que Keith é sabe fazer qualquer coisa incrivel,.

[@javierzone9132]

Getter dunnn, Great video...........

[@KeithFenner]

Great comment! I walk that talk and tell others, about Tef-Gel, my job was to get them out and the marina takes care or the work needed and reassembles, too bad the manufactures don’t use lubes, aaaaaaaaaaa! ;{)-----

[@WAVETUBE84]

I'd call that; "Tappin' some ugly, double bag, holes".

[@ding0925]

Amazes me why mfg's wont put stainless to Alum? really important on marine apps...

[@augustooliveira9616]

Para sacar parafuso roscado classe 8.8 por exemplo e numa base de material (GAL 99,9) a técnica não é esta. O que se vê no video o senhor em questão só fura e faz rosca através de macho ainda por cima macho de rosca direita. Como tenho conhecimento de causa só tenho a comentar de que isto é um grande erro. (G=fundição)

[@buckwheat7424]

I only find examples like this after the days on end that I spend trying to save the original bolt hole, leaving an oversized egg shaped hole down to the last corrodedly stuck thread. Having all the right tools, wire feed, commercial drill press' makes no difference, 5 cocktails or not, first thing I reach for is a punch and a hand drill, and never hit the center, nor be in alignment. I'm jinxed for that. Once I broke 11 of ``17 1/4 stainless bolts holding the exhaust cooler cover on a Merc 1000 6cyl. Using a 3/8 butterfly impact wrench after the first 2 bolts snapped off using a 1/4 in tiny wratchet, I was like whatever, just yank em out, and try to extract the thread, lol. From now on, I'm using the supplied thread kit drill and save some time!

[@chriswebber39]

thanks

[@davidalexander8275]

keith if you tefgel on those bolts you willnot have this problem again

[@KeithFenner]

That's what I call retirement! ;{)-----

[@dougankrum3328]

salt water...steel...aluminum=superglue!

[@juanasanelli6831]

My friend my method of extraction is very simple , and if the piece is aluminum best is weldover the screw boke a old nut with eutectic 680electrode stick

[@KeithFenner]

Always dry{)-----

[@KeithFenner]

I gave you an extra a but even punching that into the Google, I came up with a dozen places that have Alumtap made by Winbro. ;{)-----

[@PRESTIGEOUSNESS]

5:19-5:26 XD

[@gj3072]

Hey you 6 ney sayers, what's not to like.

[@iosilver9920]

Goddamn commie Metric Helicoils 😂

[@vodoocult]

Thanks