Renishaw Probe 2

[@jeffbowser8360]

So happy to see advanced information about machining on KZbin, really look forward to your videos. I’ll have to try some of this.

[@micahhunter2706]

I love this video so much. I have watched these probe cycle videos many many times.

[@micahhunter2706]

hey edge, I made a macro the other day for a part that didnt have a face but the bore had to be parallel to the table. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4uYiHmKjNWdhLM Along with saying thanks for the help, I had a question. My haas machines at my work don't understand the G65 P9832 and 9810 moves, they just give me alarms. Have you heard of this problem before? I cant find anything on google. My shift lead broke a probe tonight. A long part was in the short part batch. G00 broke the probe.

[@micahhunter2706]

That video isn't the actual part. Just a practice part I 3D printed to test out the macro.

[@cpifer5762]

Thanks so much for posting this, I have the same control and Its very helpful to see how you program. The control really does seem to have many unique features, I like it,just takes time to learn them all on your own.

[@sunppaa]

Thank you so very much for your very helpful and inspiring videos!!

[@jmh1425]

This information is very helpful we just got a new machine with a renishaw probe. I have been looking for more ways to use it.

[@extradimension7356]

@Edge Precision , I think in some of your videos you say you prefer to use a Dial Test Indicator than the probing (in some instances) as you feel it's more accurate. Any chance you can elaborate on that in a video, like DTI vs. Probe ? THANKS.

[@EdgePrecision]

I don’t know if more accurate is the correct term. I think that I like to see what I’m indicating. The probe won’t necessarily check for things like roundness or to say it another way out of roundness and runout. Not that it can’t be done with a proper measuring cycle but the standard ones don’t. I guess the indicator give me better feedback. With probing you just don’t know for sure.

[@extradimension7356]

Thanks, I think / feel that's pretty true.

[@MachinedComponents]

Peter, news of the church shotting in Huston has just come across the TV here. You mentioned in your Hurricane Harvey video that you spent a night at your church so I hope you and yours haven't been caught up in this terrible situation directly. My thoughts and prayers are with you, the people of Huston, and everyone effected by this unbelievable act.

[@EdgePrecision]

Thank you for your concern but this happened far away from us. The little town where this happened Sutherland Springs is way over by San Antonio not close to Houston. I don't know what to make of this. This will undoubtedly stir up anti gun regulation people. And now we will have to go thru metal detectors to go to church service. What this nation/ world coming to?

[@derekgreen7319]

Hey in a past video I seen you do a C zero offset for the orientaion of some drilled holes. I think you made a fixture with a flat surface milled in it to be able to indicate it in. Could you maybe go over that process again? And maybe go over how you used the fixture /indicating to regain your orientation? Thank you very much. This would be very helpful for me :)

[@EdgePrecision]

+Derek Green I would like to help you but I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean setting the zero on the C axis on a fixture offset?

[@derekgreen7319]

Edge Precision sorry I wish I could explain it better. I could try and link the video you made when you did it. But the part had several gun drilled holes in it. And you had to do a c-zero set for the whole(gun drilled whole) orientation. The fixture you used was used as a guide the drilling I do believe .

[@EdgePrecision]

Derek Green I think I know what you are saying. When I made the fixture I milled a slot to indicate later to set the C zero in the fixture offset. This slot was aligned to the holes such that in my cam software I made it at C zero alignment. The part also had a key in the bore that indexed with a keyway in the fixture. The fixture acted as alignment drill bushings for the gun drills. Because the drilled holes started so far down in the bore this turned out to be the best way to align them to the key that was in the bottom of the bore. (The key was EDMed in the bottom of the bore). So to set the C zero in the fixture offset I just indicated the slot parallel to the Y axis (by rotating C) and set the C on G54 to zero. The program was made for that C zero. Does that help?

[@derekgreen7319]

Yea that was very helpful thank you ! Your machine is a bit more advance then the one I use. But I work mostly on a 4 axis lathe. And all the time I send parts over the mill for this very reason. This could allow me to do more jobs from start to finish . :)

[@derekgreen7319]

Edge Precision o and I wanted to say, often times if a part I am doing has to many different hole patterns or if is a whole pattern/milling on the backside of the part. I will be unable to do all the secondary operations do to the issue with the orientation of said whole patterns/milling.

[@normanj844]

Another great video Peter! Quick question: would you use the probing routine as shown on every part, or have it in block skip and tell your machinist to turn it on every X parts? Also, for another unrelated video, we are thinking about getting a used VMC as a step of from what we have (Tormach and manual machines). Could your share your thoughts on buying used, how to evaluate a machine, and what to expect in terms of repairs?

[@EdgePrecision]

I normally do it on every part. It depends on the material being machined and the tolerance of the feature. If you were machining aluminum for instance you might be able to get away with just doing it the first time you run a new tool. But in a way this is overkill for that, its more useful if your having to chase the offset all the time. Just automate it. Buying used equipment is always taking some sort of risk. If you have experience with the make and model of machine you are looking at it helps. If you don't have confidence in doing this find someone you trust and knows what to look for look over the machine. As to repairs I would say for CNC equipment I wouldn't buy anything more than ten years old and stick to name brands or companies that have been around a long time. If you can, talk to people that have owned and operated the machine you are interested in. To give you a example. I owned a CNC Hurco knee mill with a Ultimax control. I liked the control but that machine cost me more to maintain than any machine I have owned (due to electronics problems). I had a friend that was good repairing circuit boards so that helped. If you are making a living doing machine work buy new, it doesn't cost that much compared to the work and you have support and a warranty. If you have a problem in the middle of a job you can get up and running quickly. In your position I would look at Haas mills they are not the strongest machines but are a major step up from a Tormach. I have friends that have bought used Haas's with good success. Just look at the machine and how the owner took care of it. If it looks like crap it probably is.

[@normanj844]

Thanks for the info Peter. We are thinking about a new Haas mill or maybe a Doosan sometime in the next year. If you look at the forums you see a whole bunch of guys telling people that it's better to buy an old Japanese made machine than a new Haas. Our sense looking at the numbers is that if we have the work to keep it busy, a new Haas will be a reliable money maker. We are a general fab shop that is doing more and more machining, so the sales side is still weak but growing. We have always been skeptical about buying used anything, which is why we bought a Tormach over a junker of an old machine.

[@billdlv]

Very informative Peter. I did not realize you could have logic, conditional, and looping in g-code. Is this unique to the machine controller?

[@EdgePrecision]

No most controls should do this. It use to be, Haas charged for a macro option i don't know if that's still true. If your machine has a spindle or tool probe it has too be able to do this in order to run the probing cycles. I use the GOTO statement in combination with the / (Block delete) all the time. To pass a roughing cycle to a finish pass if done with the same tool. Like this /GOTO99; GOTO100: N99 what ever code next;. If you press the block delete key your program will jump to N100 else it will skip over to N99.

[@scottlundy257]

I think I will keep my job @ tacobell I hate complex math [ However you are a true machinist ] I Am an arm chair machinist love to watch you work

[@cruch9]

Love you videos. They have helped greatly. I am new to probing. We are getting ready to run a 1.125 thick plate. The outside profile is flame cut. It is a large 5 tooth sprocket roughly 26" in diameter. How would i probe this to find the center? Thanks, Todd.

[@EdgePrecision]

Use Renishaws 3-Point bore or boss cycle (O9823). You can specify the probing angles. The Renishaw manual says your probe must be calibrated with the vector stylus cycle (O9804). This should let you probe the tips of 3 of the gears teeth. Hope that helps.

[@cruch9]

How would you pick up the first tooth tip? They come to a sharp point. Is there a way to probe 3 flats and construct a circle tangent to those flats? Any way I can send you a pdf of the part? Thanks again

[@EdgePrecision]

My e-mail is [e-mail] you can send it there.

[@cruch9]

awesome, thank you. I send the file. Thanks again!

[@theessexhunter1305]

Very neat, being a manual miller from the 70's all those 001's on the screen remind me of my lap top when it crashes lol

[@GRTLRS]

Hi Peter, just curious - what is the purpose of the B index moves you use in your tool change sequence?

[@EdgePrecision]

+GARRETT LEWIS The post of my cam software puts them in to approach a B angle always from the same direction. For elimination of backlash. In the case of this setup they aren't needed.

[@jensentan5375]

Maybe u can demo a program with auto probe to start machining from forging to final matching size.

[@gredangeo]

Great video. Among the things in it, I would say that the probe gave a different answer due to only measuring four points at one depth. I would prefer to measure the hole three levels at a minimum, and 8 or 12 points around the hole each. I know that would take time. A basic hole, not that important. Something tighter than +- .0004" could be worth it.

[@EdgePrecision]

It would be possible to put mutable probing cycles at different levels and in the program average the result. There are many things that could be done improve this My purpose for the video was just to show how to do the basic measurement from your program. I will leave it up to you to take it to the next level. As for machining to tolerances on bores less than .001" I generally bore them with a boring head because most machines don't mill round enough circles (This machine does about .00039 according to the Renishaw ball bar) and you also get pushoff of the endmill. Thanks for the comment.

[@gredangeo]

Oh yeah, a boring bar is always preferable. A machine when new can do tight holes less than .001" and keep it round, but they lose it rather fast without the utmost perfect maintenance schedule, but that costs more. So may as well learn how to use a boring head. The finish is better anyways. :)

[@hristokz]

I'm loven it. Please +edge precision make more videos like that one.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Very cool option to use.

[@jessemendes9491]

Very cool !

[@CapeCodCNC]

Very informative

[@DSCKy]

square brackets...

[@EdgePrecision]

Makes sense.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Very cool option to use.