RENOGY or VICTRON DC-to-DC Charger for Lithium LiFePO4? / Off-grid RV Solar / RV DIY

[@DavesGuitarPlanet]

Dude is crystal clear and thorough. Great style.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. 👍

[@dennissecor8092]

Wow Tito, you must be an engineer, your description, is great, very thorough, great job!!!!

[@UKsystems]

He definitely has some technical background, but this is all details that the manufacturers provide

[@garnerboyd4206]

I really like watching this guy. He really gets down to details on the products I 'm thinking about buying.

[@hfed2657]

Excellent tutorial. Easy to understand 'pitch perfect' delivery, exactly the right depth of technical for the 'what does it do, how does it do it and do I need one?' researcher - like myself. Clear and concise. 😊 Thank you.

[@brucebugbee6604]

I have a 24V LiFePo4 battery and I use the Victron 12/24-15 DC-DC Converter in my travel trailer connected to a dedicated charging circuit from my truck through an Anderson connector. It works great and gives me an extra 300 watts of charging capability driving down the road regardless of solar conditions. It allows me to run my RV fridge off of the 120V instead of propane when driving.

[@4813RT]

I wish you would make a video...

[@gfaucett]

Great video. Lithium-ion batteries can handle various charging currents, but they can't handle too much voltage. The critical factor to watch is the voltage, not the current. It's important to keep the charging current within the manufacturer's recommended range to avoid damaging the battery. Exceeding this range can lead to reduced lifespan or safety hazards like overheating. That's why voltage regulation is crucial during charging to prevent overvoltage, which can cause serious issues like thermal runaway or combustion. While monitoring both voltage and current is essential, maintaining the correct voltage is typically more crucial for battery safety. This might be why some apps prioritize displaying voltage over current during charging.

[@guymaninu]

I know this video is from several years back, but great explanation for the necessity of this item for lithium batteries 👍

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped. 👍

[@tonypatterson4827]

Brian , Thank you for your informative videos. I always look forward to your updates. I Just bought a Victron 1212/30 DCDC charger and have not yet installed it . I don't think I'm going to use the switch and just let it do it automatically. I have a 2021 winnebago with a 210 amp alt. I just got this new Rv so I will soon be installing my GOPOWER IC2000 inverter , My 600 watts of solar and a Victron Smart Solar controller , Battleborn batteries and this Victron DCDC charger. Your videos keep me motivated so keep posting and thanks. Watching your vids has helped me get the courage to do these projects. Thanks again ...Tony

[@RVwithTito]

You're 210 Amp alternator should work great. Mine is much smaller. Good luck!

[@alexromanov9437]

You may wanna consider a Victron buck booster to charge faster. Can draw up to 100 Amps if I remember correctly.

[@mrtestshoot]

You can DIY your batteries and save 80% and have a battery you can manage. BB are way overpriced

[@aubrellhicks9715]

I'm considering adding a victron to my car audio setup which features a 48ah spim08hp. Considering the smaller size of my battery, would a 10 or 20 amp suffice?

[@toddswenson]

Brian, as usual your attention to detail is over the top. Thanks for all the good uploads. With regard to the setting that you highlighted between the two chargers I was under the impression that the renogy charger is very much an automatic system. Monitoring the charge of the chassis battery first and then the house batteries all while keeping an eye on the alternator health. The two sets of batteries are isolated and never charged at the same time unless the chassis battery is within charged parameters first. Eliminating the stress on the alternator. It's a great system and it's enabled me to run my refer without worry that my batteries will be depleted when I arrive at my campsite, solar or not. Again just my take. You have a great channel. See you around the sound.

[@RVwithTito]

To some extent I believe that's true. However, there's very little control you have over the RENOGY settings. Also, with mine on a switch, the DC-to-DC charger would continue drawing from the chassis battery if I forgot to switch it off after engine shutdown. As I said, the RENOGY charger worked fine. Thanks for the comment.

[@Roy-ij1wq]

I commented on your earlier video on the Renolgy DC to DC charger before watching this one and think you missed a key feature of the Renolgy because you failed to mention the LC (current limiting) terminal on the Renolgy that allows you to reduce the output current by half. This allows you to draw more current when needed and less when it is not. You selected the 20 amp Renolgy for your first install because you didn't want to put a continuous higher load on the alternator, and installed an off switch so you can turn it off when it wasn't needed or desired. But had you made use of the LC terminal you could have added the option of reducing the output current to 10 amps by running a second wire and a three way switch (off, 20 amp, and 10 amp). The output is reduced by half any time current is present in the LC terminal. Both switches can be powered from the same ignition circuit and you can choose from a 20 /10, 40/20, or a 60/30 charger depending upon the size of your alternator. The alternator in my 2015 Ford Expedition with a heavy duty tow package is 250 amp and I went with the 60/30 because I don't have solar (yet).

[@UKsystems]

A Victron unit unit could be programmed to work the same

[@daveboxwell3151]

Interesting you have done exactly what I did with my dc to dc charger with the Anderson plugs for exactly the same reason. It has saved me once already when I had a flattish starter battery at only 12 volts. It wasn't enough to start the motor but 5 minutes of direct connection via the Anderson plugs got me going. Brilliant.

[@RB-pi3jl]

I have a Victron solar controller and can confirm Victron has the best app that handles every situation via bluetooth. But I have a Renogy 40A DC to DC charger that has worked flawlessly. I have a manual on/off switch for my DC to DC since I don't always need to charge my coach batteries while driving.

[@RVwithTito]

I had not intended on replacing the RENOGY charger at first. It was working fine. I purchased a Victron Orion for an upcoming project and thought I'd try it out. I liked it and decided to keep it installed.

[@larryoverstreet3610]

@@RVwithTito Looking forward to hearing about *that* other project, too! Thanks for all you do to share your expertise!

[@UKsystems]

Why did you not go with Victron as you could have created a VE Smart network and synchronised charging parameters?

[@sarahsmith4617]

Excellent video, thanks for showing all the phone settings as well.

[@RVwithTito]

You bet. Glad it was helpful.

[@larryv4249]

You realize that you may have to be the "facilities manager" for the RV in the event you ever sell it.......few will understand how all of the interfaces work.....surely they would be getting a very nice RV. Nice job, can't wait for the next sequel for Back to the Future, and they recast Dr Brown to Dr Brian.

[@RVwithTito]

GREAT SCOTT Marty!! Sell it? Probably not :)

[@jamesscott1932]

It’s true. Brian is spending too much time on his coach. Maybe I could catch up with Brian on the road and he could spend some time on my coach!

[@larryoverstreet3610]

@@jamesscott1932 :-)

[@RVingwithG]

I see and feel the same way... No one would buy my RV as the way I bought it, but now (or soon to be) with all the things I have (or going to ) in it they are going to have to KNOW what all these googies do ... 1,005 watts of Solar, 300-400 AMP Hours of BBB, Propane GEN, a lot of Electrical things (induction cooktop), Motorbike ramp, wave-3 heater, 3000 watts inverter/charger, and soon a MINI Split. maybe a Tankless water heater... Is the RV worth all that, ??? NO, but it's mine, and these are the things I want.

[@jamesscott1932]

@@RVingwithG customizing our rigs is more than half the fun.

[@UKsystems]

It is worth knowing that victron allows you to add stuff with the ecosystem in such a way that for instance a device may not support a temperature sensor. You can always add a temperature sensor in and that device will read the temperature when charging so it is hard to compare like for like

[@MechakittenX]

Thank you! Your videos helped me get started and now they're going to help me upgrade!

[@daveure8184]

Enjoying the information- just dipping my toes into solar here in New Zealand 🤚

[@RVwithTito]

Wait til the water gets to your torso 😀

[@jeffsenecal4168]

CONGRATS ON 100K SUBS!!! GREAT CONTENT VERY HELPFULL! KEEP IT UP!

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks!! I appreciate that. Cheers.

[@4428314]

Great video! I just had to subscribe. You should be teaching electrical engineering. Thanks, I learned a lot. February, 2023.

[@RVwithTito]

Welcome! So glad you learned something from this video. I appreciate the feedback!

[@delmarsbeensaved8569]

The Anderson connections just removed my excuses for not wiring my renogy dctodc unit. I've been making sure to be above 75%soc on travel days. I guess I'll have to muster up the courage to cut ✂️ that yellow battery interconnect wire. Great video. 👍🏾

[@RVwithTito]

Glad to hear it. While I was swapping it out I thought I'd do that too. Might come in handy one day.

[@UKsystems]

Those connections are terrible for anything charging as they have a high resistance

[@mikenkaried4543]

I use the Renegy 60amp DC to DC with Bluetooth that has all of the same victron software features you were pointing out... it charges our 48v LifePo4 battery bank on our Travel Trailer. My diesel truck has a giant alternator and it just idles pushing 60amps into the batteries when we get limited sun while boondocking. I have ran the motor for over 2 hours one night and only used about half a gallon of diesel.

[@ceeweedsl]

The ideal setup! The motor you already have is your backup generator! I also use my engine with an oversized alternator as a supplement when panels can't keep me powered. I have a much smaller system with a 6 cyl gas engine.

[@UKsystems]

However, there are lots of additional things you can do with a Victron unit inside the ecosystem which isn’t a stated feature because you need another device to do it

[@dannyjensen4954]

Very good video. I love your analysis. I have a boat and need to use lead acid batteries not just to start my boat but to provide power in the event of BMS failure. I have been experimenting with paralleling lead acid and lithium to keep my lead acid batteries at 99% SOC while anchored for extended time while not running my engine. It seems to work well. I have a video on this experiment but I learned about this from other videos. It would seem one could add Lithium to existing lead acid banks just by joining the 2 banks as you have show with your connectors. Thanks again for this great video. You have helped me so much.

[@douglundy5755]

Same here, using lithium to bridge the night time/rainy days voltage drop in lead acid. Using an awesome gel cell starting battery and have big bank of flooded lead, but I just need lipo4 to get through a few rainy days. I will use a DC/DC charging to maintain the lithium fully charged and may put the lipo on a switch for use as needed, possibly just back feed into the distribution panel with a 15 amp breaker. We will see what works. (Im not convinced the $380 battery combiner is a great value or needed, but I love his idea of combining battery types)

[@davidpatrick1813]

The Anderson bypass plugs; I was talking with B Born ... and they said the LiFiPO4 are not to be used as a start battery. ... whereas the lead acid batteries can handle the spike jump of amps to turn the starter. I am only at 6:51 in the video and you may be addressing this (before I forget :-)).

[@RVwithTito]

I didn't mention it in the video, but you're correct. What you could probably do is simply connect them (not starting) for a while and let the LFPs put a little charge into the starter battery. Thanks for raising the issue.

[@davidpatrick1813]

@@RVwithTito That is a good idea in form to charge up the start battery. Have a great day....

[@enarandyr9122]

Great info. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome. Hope it was helpful.

[@nicholassangineto4122]

Tripple redundant stuff? Good setup. You did a good job!

[@TignerAdventures]

Thanks for the video Brian. I am looking into lithium and would need to do this and glad to see how you did it.

[@RVwithTito]

Glad it was helpful!

[@marvs4321]

Brian, FYI a few of us on the Victron Users forum have asked Victron to please add smart networking to the DC/DC charger, no word yet. We figure that adding smart networking adds the sharing of the battery voltage, current and SoC information between all the devices. This would allow them all to stay in sych as to what what charging mode they are in (Bulk, absorption, etc.) otherwise the first charging device would set the voltage on the battery to the level of its mode and the other devices might then not contribute to the charging properly.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for that info. Yes. That would be great if they did that. All my charge controllers are synched up. It would be nice to add the DC/DC to that. I may have to add a shunt at some point.

[@davidl1338]

@@RVwithTito great video Brian. Ref the Shunt, this would be a perfect device to add the Simarine PICO DC Shunt unit to your system so you can add the Victron Orion current info to the Simarine monitor display :). (I wish Victron had those shunt options instead of having to use the BMVs. I've got THREE BMVs in my RV partly because of that :( )

[@RVwithTito]

@@davidl1338 Agreed. I'd probably add a PICO digital shunt to monitor the DC 2 DC output.

[@skinnerMTB]

Great tip about jump start access point! My chassis batteries are in s toigh spot to get too!

[@markmezo]

I have Victron gear including the smart shunt, but my 30A DC-DC is not Victron & that's because i wanted dual input facility, one input from my alternator & the other goes to an anderson plug which i then plug in folding 260w solar panel (handy in winter months).

[@RVwithTito]

Interesting. Thanks.

[@UKsystems]

That is an extremely poor position. You want a solar charge controller from Victron for the panel you lose so much efficiency doing this way there’s a reason why they don’t offer it

[@dewholdingsllc1050]

Thanks. I have to look at your earlier dc to dc charge control. I followed the solar solution guy YT channel 3rd option for charging deep cycle house battery and starter battery and protecting the alternator. He explained why type of battery requires a different type of charging. His 3rd option was to connect alternator to house battery first via the dc to dc control and then charging the starter battery from the house battery. I am not clear on your system which batteries are charged 1st, then 2nd.

[@RVwithTito]

The chassis battery will be recharged quickly after engine startup. Afterwards, it's primarily the house battery that's getting charged with the DC-to-DC. You can set this to happen automatically using the start voltage settings, or switch it on manually as I do.

[@robertgarbe6348]

Got the same Victron for my 3 battleborn’s. It is flawless and so very flexible. Non isolated, 3 wires boom done.

[@RVwithTito]

So far, I'm liking it too.

[@brentmcmahon8188]

If you could hook up a heat gauge on your alternator to show you hot hot it is you could keep up with the temp and turn your charger off and see what the resting temp is and how high the temps go under load and if it gets too high you could shut your dc to dc charger off and let it cool off for a while and after some time would see what’s normal and what’s too hot. Just a thought don’t know if it would help but couldn’t hurt .

[@garyzimmerman8679]

Renogy has a 60amp now with bt adapter. They also have a 50amp with built in Mppt charger

[@trevorsgaragemusings]

Great job, I really like the idea of running it via Anderson connectors. The only thing I'd change is vertically mounting the unit so that it can dissipate heat properly. It looks slanted, which is better than flat, but the manual specially states a vertical install (section 4.1).

[@ReversePeople]

Agreed. I have this same charger and it runs hot, like +115°F. Spoke to a Victron rep and they said up to 130°F is “normal”.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. I have a temp controlled fan installed to cool the compartment. And yes, the angle is to more hot air up from the heatsinks on the DC charge and inverter above it.

[@billjones2806]

@@RVwithTito What temperature-controlled fan did you use?

[@RVwithTito]

@@billjones2806 Just the switch (kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3usdoueo6trg7c). The fan is just a standard 12V computer fan like this amzn.to/3EKLfZi

[@guyt54]

Great video, convinced me to get the Victron charger. One remark on you setup if I may. From reviews I read, the converter can get hot. For better heat dissipation, it would be best to mount the charger vertically.

[@coreymerritt7742]

That’s a nice mod Brian if I were to switch to lithium on my travel trailer I know that it charges through the 7:way plug I would probably have to run a second charge line from the truck to use that I know if you don’t put some sort of device on your system it can cook the alternator I watched that battle born video and I was quite surprised with the outcome 😁

[@RVwithTito]

You may want to use an online voltage drop calculate to figure out what cable thickness to use for the length you need. Good luck.

[@kk-pz8gn]

Corey what is a popular way other folks are protecting their alternator VIA the RV 7 way plug? Thanks.

[@coreymerritt7742]

@@kk-pz8gn watch Jared from all about rvs I think you only have to protect it if you are running a separate charge line the 7 way only puts out about 1 to 2 amps while charging

[@gregoryhenriksen957]

It would be nice to also have the VE.Direct port on the DC charger

[@RVwithTito]

Yes it would.

[@UKsystems]

The new version does now

[@RR-or5ip]

Love the channel....I have used some of your techniques and recommendations on my yacht. Thanks for such a good and informative channel.

[@brentmcmahon8188]

That’s the same way I have mine set up with a switch that when it’s on it lights to remind me to tur off because if you start batteries and your lithium batteries are low they will drain your start batteries dry and quick .

[@tombolin7168]

Thanks Brian , always useful information.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome!

[@tdapple1]

Beautiful Information ℹ️. Thank You 🙏 So much! We just bought a 2023 Winnebago Solis (National Park Foundation) Edition & I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the electrical ⚡️ system Etc. This was Invaluable Information ℹ️. New Subscriber 🙋‍♂️ here. 🍻 👊 🇺🇸

[@RVwithTito]

Glad it was helpful. Enjoy the van! It reminds me of the 1970 VW Pop Top camper I had before #vanlife was a thing (Damn - should've kept it - Ugh)

[@jorjimaco5331]

Victron rocks! 🇦🇺👍

[@twodogsandtheirfamily]

Have you thought about a higher amperage alternator? Mechman makes then up to 370+ amps and they usually have a lot higher output at idle than stock. Then you could supply more like 60-90 amps to your batteries.

[@RVwithTito]

Maybe down the road it's something I'll consider, especially since I don't have a generator anymore. I've used the DC charger quite a bit recently on those rainy days.

[@dannyhightower1]

@@RVwithTito Heat is the problem with the high amperage 12v alternators. If you have a low SOC and you are pulling a lot of amps and not able to dissipate the heat you will fry those alternators.

[@stevenerkman3230]

What is the Simarine monitor you're using? I couldn't find it in the description. Looks convenient to watch your battery status on your phone 🤳

[@theMekanik]

Have you tried the Battle Born Batter Isolator ? You konnekt the lead battery in conjunction with the lithium….. 70amp Charge Rate

[@RVwithTito]

No I haven't tried that one. Do you have one?

[@marvs4321]

Remember that the Battery Isolator DOES NOT control the charging voltage, the alternator will. It will also not regulate the charging current, the battery itself will.. This isn’t the best way to charge your batteries. Its function is not that of a battery charger, its designed to prevent your RV/house battery from discharging your Starter batteryl.

[@68Mustang390]

Hi Brian. Great video! I did notice than where you installed the Victron DC to DC charger was pretty cramped .My experience is, when the unit goes into a bulk charge, it can get very warm. You might want to make sure it has plenty of ventilation. Safe travels.

[@ReversePeople]

Very good point. I have this same charger and it runs hot, like +115°F. Spoke to a Victron rep and they said up to 130°F is “normal”.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. The compartment is automatically vented with a fan.

[@UKsystems]

@@ReversePeople there is no point putting normal in quotation marks. The manufacturer knows what temperature parameters are good and they specify adequate cooling requirements and how hot it will get in cramp spaces.

[@davidpatrick1813]

I did pick one of these up and installed with a regular alt. At first it was fine and BB sent their settings but it now ... never goes into absorbtion and keep on Off and Charge is disabled. My 200W panels fully charged back 20% in 1 day with overcast and little clear. The Victron solar controller sure does a great quick job... with full sun it would have been quicker... well, so I guess I need to drain off the 100% again with the set to BB settings and see what happens ... When it was full before the DC DC 30 seemed to still add... but now it doesn't

[@wayneL9995]

Hi Brian, another great video. I really apricate how you can deliver information so easily understood. With regards to your original factory wiring that uses a switch and solenoid to merge the chassis & house batteries. Those solenoids typically have keyed and switched 12v triggers. If so, couldn't you have disconnected the keyed 12v connection and left the switch in use? This way it would still work as it did originally and the alternator wouldn't be charging through the merge solenoid when driving. You could then connect the chassis battery side of the solenoid to the Victron DC charger. Am I overlooking something that wouldn't work correctly? Thanks again

[@evil17]

Good job/vid/info. I like the Ando idea, I do this myself as it also makes it a portable Dcdc charger unit as well as redundancy in case of problems/issues. One small area u may want to check, & ‘old habits die hard’ here, while ferrules look very nice on an install, there is some controversy over their use and Victron actually advise not to use ferrules, but just good bear copper as their connectors are made to contact the copper better without ferrules or solder. Victron is great gear & feature full, but quite dear in Australia too, ur controller is about $450 AUD while the 40A Renogy is only $180, so that’s what I got for now for a lithium camper setup. I agree with ur criticisms of the Victron App & charger features, but then Victron would rather you buy another $200 shunt, I think they could have added that in for the price. TFS. Cheers

[@timmyers3428]

I have a 2007 Winnebago Journey, and have been struggling with having to eliminate my Boost function in order to install a DC to DC charger. Your idea of using the Anderson Connectors turned the light on in my brain, that I could also use a multi position switch that would disconnect the wires to the DC to DC charger while at the same time connecting the two battery circuits together. It would still be a manual operation under the Generator hood (front of my Diesel Pusher) but still accessible and would protect the Orion from damage.

[@UKsystems]

Anderson connectors can create massive problems with the high resistance

[@leswalker2222]

Very good and useful video, great presentation

[@RVwithTito]

Glad it helped!

[@Drifty325i]

Great video really handy! thanks

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome!

[@jeffedwards6981]

I wonder if you could use the renolgy 20 DC to DC charger between the lithium battery charger and the chassis battery to keep the chassis battery charged when the rv is sitting for an extended period and plugged into shore power

[@RVwithTito]

Yup. That should work. I wired up a $10 PWM solar charge controller to do that.

[@greyhairedmountainbiker116]

Great video. Thinking about keeping AGM batt under the steps (gets charge from alternator),but add an LiFePo with a DC-DC charger from the AGM. Route Li batt to DC load/Inverter/solar, but keep house converter hooked to AGM. This would give you an extra "backup" battery and the AGM would be standby emergency start. Maybe the converter won't work like an alternator? Any thoughts? (If I took the converter out, it would be sort ofthe same as your setup, except an extra battery in parallel with chassis batt.)

[@adriangleprin6949]

I would fit a Severe Duty , Leece Neville Alternator with a smart regulator, set for LifePo4. We had a 400 amp alternator which ran our heavy loads while motoring .

[@silviosmaniotto63]

bonjour une bonne idée les connecteurs anderson pour coupler les batteries en cas de besoin

[@donj.giovanni7551]

Excellent video for my education. Victron has two versions of chargers, isolated and NON-isolated. Why do you pick ISOLATED version? Thanks!

[@brianwysocki6047]

I would like to know as well Brian. I'm in the process of doing this to my class A. Couldn't you use the non-isolated version and keep the solenoid so you can use the "remote start" switch to jump to your coach batteries? Thank you!

[@UKsystems]

Simply put you pick isolated if you need to have an isolated charger if you do not understand when you use an isolated charger you don’t really know what you’re doing

[@broncoblue399]

Brian, why a DC to DC charger and not just use a Battery isolation Manager that is made for Lithium batteries?

[@RVwithTito]

Haven't tried those, but I like having my Victron gear all managed in one place. That's one reason.

[@marvs4321]

A battery isolator only protects one battery from influencing the charging or discharging of another. A batter isolator DOES NOT provide the proper charging profile to the batteries in that it does not switch between bulk, absorption, and float modes so while it will allow your battery to be charged, it’s not the best and efficient way to do so. A battery isolator just prevents your RV from drawing power from your starter battery and pulling it down, and if equipped with a switch will allow your RV battery to charge your starter battery.

[@davidadams421]

Further to @Marv S, a battery isolator wouldn't protect you from overloading your alternator. A fully discharged Li-Ion battery would essentially 'look like' a dead short circuit to a power source so no matter when the isolator 'kicks in', you're going to get a huge subsequent current draw. You should never directly charge a Li-Ion battery from an alternator, assuming that you want to protect your safety and investment, of course. There are 'smart alternators' out there that current limit their output to some maximum but you'll still need to design your system around that limit e.g. if your house battery needs 14.6V to fully charge and your alternative produces 14.8V, you can only drop 0.2V along the cable run - that requires some seriously big cable to achieve.

[@liedj2317]

@@davidadams421Battle born recommends a BIM.Battle Born LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager Li-BIM225. Under normal charging conditions, the Li-BIM225 will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes. That means that the BIM will connect for 15 minutes, disconnect for 20 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the coach battery is charged. If the coach battery resting voltage exceeds 13.4V than the Li-BIM225 will disconnect. A resting voltage greater than 13.4V indicates a fully charged battery. Note that “resting voltage” means that no current is flowing to the coach battery. The Li-BIM225 will disconnect if the alternator voltage exceeds 14.4V. This protects the coach battery from over charging. The BIM will disconnect if the voltage difference between the alternator and the coach battery is less than 0.1V. If the voltage difference is too low, then there is a negligible charging current, and no need to connect to the coach battery The BIM will disconnect if the alternator voltage drops below 13.3V. If the alternator voltage is too low, than it cannot adequately charge the coach battery, so there is no reason to connect.

[@davidadams421]

@@liedj2317 It sounds like this device has been designed with alternator charging in mind, and has a lot of smarts, though no mention of current limiting. As a personal preference, I believe a DC-DC charger would offer a better solution.

[@fc436]

its possible to charge a lifepo4 battery directly with alternator. If you now what you do. if you now the parameter and specs of alternator at low rpm, if the max current is compatible with your battery and also the charging voltage. Victron produce a intelligent reel to do that

[@danpease8395]

I haven’t read all the comments, re combining the lithium with start batteries in emergency. Have you done this? I could be mistaken, but, if you connect a fully charged lithium to a dead lead acid, the lithium is going to try and fill (charge) the lead acid ALL AT ONCE! You will either blow something up, or (hopefully) the BMS in the lithium will shut her down. Once again, I could be wrong, but interested in learning how it works in real life. Best, Dan

[@RVwithTito]

You're not wrong. It's not recommended and I never do it.

[@KU9L]

Good points in the video, Tito, sir. Thank you for making it. I bought the Renorgy version for my travel trailer but might wait until we get our toy hauler motorhome before installing it. I can use it to charge the battery in the toy hauler garage which will power my ham radios & other stuff as a separate system from the house battery bank. Why have a separate system, even if small? The distance is the main factor & the small system (1-2 lifepo4 batteries and it can run our cell/WIFI booster from DC, etc). The Renorgy or the Victron would be tricky for installation in our travel trailer either way. I can mount either in our storage compartment where I have my inverter & 300-amp fuse, it is just a pain to run the 4-6 gauge wire from the 40-50-amp breaker at the engine compartment into the travel trailer. Having that extra heavy wire of sufficient length coming out under the truck tailgate that is secured yet lose in an umbilical protector that comes up in yet another hole I have to drill into the floor of the travel trailer storage area is going to be a technical feat. Currently, I use the access door on the side of the travel trailer to input our solar ground mount array (the trailer is a couple years older than when Lance started installing SAE connectors for solar input). I run the MC4 connectors into the trap door of the driver-side sewer tube connector for the four Renergy 100-watts panels wired in the 48-volt configuration to our Victron 100/30 charge controller for extra solar charging of our two BB LIFEPO4 batteries. It doesn't make sense to use that same access door for a charge while driving with the charge line from the truck as it is not located front and center of the travel trailer (where the batteries are, but the Renorgy/Victron DC-DC can not be located there due to the need for a good waterproof solution). We camp host in the summer in the mountains so we have 160 watts of solar on the roof of our Lance TT and the 400-watts on the ground (as Camp Host RV sites always have beneficial shading that is great for cooling, but not so great for solar). So in the end, your video here is going to cost me a purchase of a Winnebago motorhome (always wanted one anyway) or if I am really advancing my Imagineering skills, a Renegade Classic 2609 toy hauler. Thanks again, Tito, sir.

[@mitchsmolow6268]

The Victron uses convective cooling and the manual wants it mounted vertically. Are you concerned with overheating with your horizontal mounting?

[@ReversePeople]

Very good point. I have this same charger and it runs hot, like +115°F. Spoke to a Victron rep and they said up to 130°F is “normal”.

[@RVwithTito]

It's actually mounted at an angle allowing the heat to escape. The compartment also has a temp controlled ventilation fan to pull heat out when it reaches 90 deg F

[@UKsystems]

@@ReversePeople I have seen various people including you copying and pasting comments about how warm a product gets

[@eddieman3702]

Great setup 👌. Thanks

[@RVwithTito]

You bet.

[@hikerJohn]

My alternator is 135 amps and I only have a 100amp lithium battery but my issue is that the trailer plug wire cannot handle that much current so I'm looking for a 20A DC to DC charger. I don't think I can run a #6 wire through my 7way plug but the trailer plug cable is only a #10 as well.

[@kevgermany]

Thanks Brian On the VE side, there's a smart model, with built in Bluetooth which would have given this feature. Not sure if you can add the victron Bluetooth adapter to your Orion.

[@RVwithTito]

Don't think there's a com port on this one.

[@MePeterNicholls]

How can I make all the cars electronics draw off the aux battery when engine is off?

[@RVwithTito]

I guess you'd have to rewire those circuits through an A/B switch or a relay if you need it automatic.

[@williampowers4243]

What size wire did you use from the chassis battery back to the DC charger locations?

[@MarkWilliams-ix1qf]

I did not understand why the change. Did the Renogy charger fail? Or you just like the bluetooth monitoring? Confused.

[@ecowise9700]

Victron Bluetooth connectivity has been reported troublesome on many of their components- I’d prefer having a gauge for the times Bluetooth plays up

[@vangilanteryan713]

Cool, learned a bit. Trying to figure out how to set mine up. I like this setup. I ordered a DIY style LiFePO4 couple weeks ago. Picked up my van yesterday. Either way ima do the same thing with the anderson connectors and flip switch. Thanks. (ill buy that old charger if you wanna sell it haha)

[@toddfather1971]

Would Installing one of these and feeding it to the center pin on the trailer wiring be a good idea for charging the battery on a Toad? As opposed to relying on the 15amps that is typically put out on that pin.

[@mostafaelgamel6415]

Just came to me, I can use this to charge from the 12V EV to the chassie battery while having this in the middle. Ordering now

[@RVwithTito]

Good luck!

[@mostafaelgamel6415]

@@RVwithTito Ordered thru the links, along with cables and Ferrels. Thanks!

[@mostafaelgamel6415]

@@RVwithTito Just installed it. Charging from a Model S 12V to a Tesla Battery single module (22.4V nominal). This orion charger is a killer, using RC chargers which are not reliable /hacky / slow. Now my battery is guaranteed to be topped off everyday regardless of solar. Thank you

[@RVwithTito]

@@mostafaelgamel6415 Sweet! Glad it's working well for ya.

[@nordic5490]

the Renogy 40A can be switched to 20A for regular driving to increase the life of your LFP. switch to 40A only when required. If your batteries are hot, the battery bms may over temp shut down at 40A continous, thus select 20A

[@UKsystems]

And you can go figure the victron unit so that the remote port just the same

[@traiannicolau]

Why not keeping both? I have a 30 Orion right now and I want to install an aditional Renogy 60A (same price as a 30A Victron). Alternator is 180A.

[@897aa33]

What is actual difference between mppt and b2b chargers, both getting current from the source and processing according to the charging profile?

[@fratermus5502]

MPPT solar charge controllers typically buck higher-voltage solar power down to battery charging voltage. B2b generally boost from similar voltage DC sources (batteries, alternators). There are exceptions but that's the general deal.

[@RVwithTito]

B2B chargers are actually designed for this purpose. If you use a solar charge controller, you'll need one that outputs enough current. Also, lots of smaller controllers can't accept larger cable connections.

[@897aa33]

@@fratermus5502 so you recon if printed mppt on the box I am not allowed to use for b2b purposes or because current from b2b has different colours?

[@897aa33]

@@RVwithTito Thanks Tito. Love your channel.

[@davidadams421]

@Mark MPPT ( _Maximum Power Point Tracking_ ) chargers are designed specifically for PV arrays, they continually (e.g. 10 times per second) vary their output in order to track the maximum power point of the connected PV array as solar irradiance changes over time e.g. clouds. If you connect an MPPT to a battery, it has nothing to track - you're just paying for features it'll never use. DC-DC chargers or a lot 'dumber' ( _and therefore, generally cheaper_ ) and, as has been mentioned, either act as a configurable current buffer or buck/boost the input.

[@MaliciousMatt888]

Hmm I’m doing an audio install with 2 20ah lithium battery’s and I see that victron appears to have much smaller inputs, I doubt you could even get 2 or 4 gauge in there. In audio everyone typically runs the thickest gauge possible for fear of bottleneck.

[@MeTube0190]

can you use the battery while its on ghe charger from that dc to dc for example do I need to turn off the fridge if the battery is on charge .

[@RVwithTito]

Absolutely.

[@MeTube0190]

@@RVwithTito thank you 😊

[@oscarsainz9087]

Hi. So I own an 18 wheeler and I’m trying to charge my EUC battery which operates with lithium ion batteries. But am for some reason I can’t use the charger with inverter combination while in the truck. At the house I can charge just fine but not in my truck. Can you help?

[@unclelala4216]

I have a Ram with dual 220 amp alternators, so I guess I have enough alternators but what is enough and how does one know?

[@RVwithTito]

One tip I heard was to add up all of the fuses in your chassis fuse box to get an idea of the max current draw. I'm sure it's not precise, just ball park. I suppose you could also put a cheap clamp on current meter (like this: amzn.to/3BgsT14) on your alternator output to monitor it for a while while driving.

[@roam2beborn323]

Good job

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks

[@mike_adams]

Can you control the Dc\Dc controller from the Victron blue tooth app? I understand without a switch, the trailer will continue to draw power from truck batts even while powered off. I was hoping I could power down the dc\dc converter from the app vs pulling the 7pin whip when stopping for breaks. The application is in a new Jayco Northpoint 5th wheel. Plan to install the device in the trailers cargo bay. I plan to get my power feed from the trucks 7pin connector. Truck is a new f350 with dual alternator option and all trailer tow options and there’s a 10ga wire from the truck feeding the 7pin whip. I’ve found where the 12v feed from the truck whip terminates in the trailer so for wiring, should be a pretty simple “insert”

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. You can control it through Victron Connect.

[@steelontarget]

Do you have solar input going to the car battery input? How do you have it all charging together?

[@michaelcanto6175]

Great Info Brian, So, I take it when disconnecting the E Start button you remove everything and connect the pos cable to the DC/DC Charger and a neg lead to chassis grnd? Where does the 30A fuse go?

[@RVwithTito]

I put the fuse between the DC charger positive out and house battery.

[@101perspective]

Yikes. I was on a road trip and my charge controller wouldn't work. So, I used jumper cables to give my battery a small charge. I think I had it connected for about 30 minutes. I hope that didn't do too much damage to my alternator.

[@donlandin250]

Brian could you please tell me which wago connectors you use I went to amazon but not sure thanks

[@RVwithTito]

The Wago connectors I use are listed here: rvwithtito.com/parts/wiring

[@daLowrance16]

My orion app shows 13 volts coming from the charger but my monitor does not show an increase in watts and battery continues to decrease. I am running two freezers in an ice cream truck. They draw 30-40 amps and the amp draw does not change with or without the charger being on. Any thoughts?

[@boazalmighty]

Good video. Have you considered upgrading the alternator. 200-300 amp alt are not that pricy . I may be going that route on my E450

[@larryoverstreet3610]

What brand(s)/alternator source(s) are you considering? Thanks!

[@boazalmighty]

@@larryoverstreet3610 no brand in specific but saw them eBay. I assume if everything beyond the alternator is wired correctly it should do the trick and be very helpful .

[@Hf0205]

Hi, I'm confused as to why you eliminated the jump start switch in case you need to jump-start rv. And make a separate connection at the dc dc

[@RVwithTito]

It's a short cut to the house battery since it is wired to that relay. The alternative is to run a new cable.

[@Hf0205]

@RVwithTito so you have to wire it that way if you install a DC dc charger? Just curious. I have lead acid batteries for my house and rv. I plan on upgrading my batteries as well. So I'm new to this upgrade and what it will need. I also have a solar panel that charges my barries when I'm not plugged in. So same set up I suppose. Just looking to upgrade house and engine batteries

[@michaeldoherty2289]

I see why you added the Anderson style connectors, but it OK to use the LiFePo4 deep cycle house battery as a charging assist for your motorhome?

[@RVwithTito]

I probably won't do it (never had to in the past). Others here have shared their reason why not to do that for LiFePO4.

[@michaeldoherty2289]

@@RVwithTito Hi Tito. LiFePo4 storage (deep cycle) batteries are not starting batteries and should not be used to start any engine. I think some DC-DC charging setups allow the house battery to add charge back to the vehicle start battery after the house battery is fully charged, so in a sense it does help the start battery. But that doesn't make much sense because the start battery is connected to the alternator all the time anyway. Maybe that is what you meant?

[@bbl8791]

Is it capable of charging 12v , 24v , 48v battery systems, as the 12/24 on the victron case is referring to the alternator discharge voltage right?

[@RVwithTito]

12/24 is the battery system voltage I believe. So no 48V with this one. Going off of memory. So double check this.

[@thefrenkteam-normanfrenk7377]

why the cut-off switch when you can turn it off with the app?

[@sofakingphat8087]

I was looking at a dual alternator system. My question is, can you hook up to alternators to charge into that system? Could you get two chargers and run them into your batteries? Just checking before I spend a lot of money to upgrade my system.

[@rvvanlife]

So this video was done 2ys ago. Has Victron added those missing features, that you highlighted, since then ?

[@jeepinjohnny2898]

Hey - is there a stand alone 100 amp alternator (any engine powered) that full power charges a lifepo4 battery ?

[@larryoverstreet3610]

I've been thinking about this, too, and using it as an opportunity to ditch my onboard Onan Gen. I haven't yet located the best second alternator, but I intend to call Mechman and see if they have a good solution. Best of luck to you!

[@jeepinjohnny2898]

@@larryoverstreet3610 thanks. Id sure like to hear what you find out.

[@RVwithTito]

Please share what you find.

[@Lostsome]

Do u have Victron duel charger controller? To change both starting and Lesure batteries if so witch one ? Thanks

[@geocash1000]

Do I need to have one of these unit on the Generator Alternator?

[@B4x4]

I have a question. If your start battery is flat (10v) and you Buypass the Victron. You will have a rush of around 300amp from the house battery to the starter battery. That will make your cables werry hot. Do you disconnect the original starter battery først then? Or will you switch the cable and let the Victron charge your start battery???

[@ceeweedsl]

First, you'd better have a fuse in there. 80 amp would be fair. Second, the cables will drop the voltage which will limit the amperage. I really doubt that a typical starter battery can pull anything close 300 amps anyway.

[@cjc1103]

Renogy also makes a 60A DC-DC charger

[@bluegroovemodelsports9650]

You got rid of the class c for a class a recently ?

[@RVwithTito]

Still have it, but not sure for how long.

[@garyferguson1552]

Great Video! Just curious I would like to add a dc to dc to my Ford 2002 7.3 power Stroke any ideas how I can find out if I have a variable current (smart alternator)? The Ford Dealership and a local alternator repair shop had no idea what I was talking about. How did you determine what you have in your Ford motor home ?

[@RVwithTito]

I've heard that if you give a dealer the VIN they can tell you.