Repairing vintage Mopar window regulators PERMANENTLY

[@Campbase1]

You probably know by now but, that metal part that clamps the window is suppose to have a gasket. At least my GTX does. And the plastic pin usually has a center post.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Thanks, I've never seen a gasket on an A-body but I'll check the parts book and see if they have all been missing.

[@dohdft3349]

Just took the entire assembly for the regulator out of my 64 Polara barn find and got it all derusted while I prep for paint... putting this mother back in there and securing it back in place is gonna be a real job it seems

[@dwct26]

Thanks for the info I had 3 broken that's on mine put it back for now thinking of a permanent fix without plastic

[@jimbfish]

That white piece that you added the cotter pin to? That's supposed to have a white 'plug' that slides in once the piece in your picture has been pushed into the hole in the glass. That plastic plug prevents the four prongs from collapsing and allowing the piece to come out of the glass.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Thanks. I was having problems with a cheap aftermarket part I think.

[@Matt2chee]

Screw that. I'm going to use nylon threaded rod and 2 nylon nuts.

[@johnwilkins866]

As Damon said, there should be what's called 'packing tape' between the glass and the mounting flanges. Also, the regulator is bad. You were able to wiggle the glass up and down while attached, meaning the gears are worn. There used to be regulator parts available to completely restore them, but I don't know now. My profession was in the glass industry for over 34 years. Mostly auto glass, but I also did comm/residential glass, built storm windows and screens. Love the love you're giving these old Mopars.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Thank you for the tips. I don't doubt the regulator is going away but with three old Mopars I dedicate time to the worst issues first. I have some spare regs too.

[@johnwilkins866]

@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Ahhh. To have the luxury of 3 old Mopars to work on!! My fav autos. Most all of the cars I've owned have been Mopars. Sadly I only have a Benz and a Toy Corolla now!! :) Oh, and if you like doing some old school hi-po stuff to the small blocks, let me know and I can tell you the things I've done with the '65 Barracuda I had for about 12 years. If nothing else, you'll have perhaps some extra things to put in the memory banks for some futre build.

[@orlandokaraoke3002]

Good fix. My windows rattle and lean forward. I have formed the habit of just pushing them back. I imagine that the same thing is going on in there and the same fix will apply. Great idea.

[@doughboy1966]

Tyler that guide that you smashed shut with the hammer is suppose to have rubber that sandwiches the glass to the metal. You can use windshield adhesive in it like i did my 82 and 86 chevy pickups.

[@ftwopointeight]

And the thing that actually holds the glass on the slide is called a saddle.

[@OldCarAlley]

A bolt tightened up on a car window will cause the glass to explode. You could use a nylock nut, and not tighten it down to the glass, it may work... but the way you repaired it, is the best way!

[@mjmcomputers]

Nice job on the fix. I agree it shouldn’t fail now.

[@tinorodriguez89]

I haven’t found a decent channel replacement. Any suggestions?

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

I thought you were replacing my KZbin channel with a better one LOL. Not sure they make the channels for these.

[@brianandrews7099]

I think the quality of the repair is going to be dependent upon the quality of the nylon that the rivet is made from. If it’s high enough quality, it could last 20 plus years. If not, the nylon will dry up, get brittle, and eventually bust into pieces. I am wondering if you could fit a rubber grommet to the hole in the glass and run a nut and a bolt (probably a few washers, too) and hold it together? I wouldn’t clamp down too hard on the threads ... maybe even leave it a little loose and put a dab of rubber cement on the threads to keep it from working loose and falling apart? I don’t think I would use lock-tite because of the dangers of needing to break it loose again someday without risking the glass. Hopefully, it’s just fixed and stays fixed; but if not, its another idea!

[@bbgdaddy5198]

good repair. If someone did want to do a bolt and nut, I would suggest a nylon bolt and nut but I would also put a cotter pin in that so the nut wouldn't work loose. All considered, if I were doing it, I would follow your lead and do exactly like you did....now I just need a vintage Mopar.... anyone want to trade for a 64 chevy truck???

[@joemazzola7387]

Make sure that the cotter pin doesn't scratch the glass while going up and down or it may weaken and shatter the glass

[@reginaldlawrence412]

Great video hope that works out for you.

[@fairfaxcat1312]

Tyler’s Garage, how does the quality of the Chrysler hardware (buttons, knobs, handles, regulators, etc.) compare to the quality of the GM product?

[@ccrider77]

Many older GM cars used a very similar arrangement, including plastic rivets. The GM lift channel on older cars tends to be pretty long, running almost the entire length of the glass. It sometimes "held on" with only adhesive strip on the bottom. The window regulator is very similar to Chrysler and Ford designs on older models, with a sector gear, scissor-like assembly and a long lifting arm. Some older GM cars use blind rivets to secure the regulator to the door. Modern GM vehicles, like many other brands, use a cable-operated regulator, which IMHO is far less reliable...

[@pianokeyzintennessee7273]

Good video my friend.

[@garbage854]

Cool 😀