Replace Rusted Out Rear Brake Backing Plates F-250

[@jimc3891]

Good job. Informative. Most repairs like this on KZbin for whatever reason show the passenger side. If you went by those videos alone removing the driver side spindle bearing nut without knowing it is a left handed thread you would be screwed!

[@DieselMike]

Thanks. But be aware if you do this job, both sides are reverse thread on this truck.

[@jimc3891]

@@DieselMike my 06 dually had regular right hand thread on both sides. Was surprised at first, but realized right away and did not try and remove as if they were left handed.

[@DieselMike]

@@jimc3891 A little confused by you using the term "regular" as opposed to "reverse" thread. Are you using Regular in the sense: "Hub locking nuts on Ford's Regularly have reverse thread" or are you saying: "My Dually's nut is Righty Tighty like any Regular nut"? Because the later would certainly be odd as this is the first case I am hearing this. Then again, your truck is not only the prior generation to mine, it also has a different axle.

[@TradesmanOutdoorAdventures]

Great video!

[@danielgeng2306]

Just did the left side on my 08 F350. I used OE but put two coats of POR 15 and 4 coats of barbecue paint. Wasn’t to bad of a job. E brake cable was the worst part.

[@israelfisher6497]

Hey thank you for going the distance on this project. I have not noticed the thin spring install with the inner bearing, would you please advise on how this spring is to be situated ?

[@DieselMike]

The spring is part of the Timkin Seals I showed you in the beginning of the video, not the bearing itself.

[@israelfisher6497]

Thanks, yeah I noticed it when I bought the seal. I finished the job, thanks to your step by step video. I am subscribing to your channel.

[@23youngin4]

How long it take for the parts to come

[@rodneycork4453]

Thank you a great help

[@mattmagee7541]

Absolutely cannot get the new seal seated properly. Any tips?

[@DieselMike]

Few thoughts: Make sure bearing and race is first seated properly. Make sure you didn't accidentally switch the inner bearing with the outer and vice versa (they are different part #'s). Make sure the oil slinger is not upside down and seated properly on the bearing. Confirm that the skinny spring in the seal is in the groove and didn't dislodge. And finally check that you did indeed receive the proper seal for your application from whoever you ordered it from.

[@mattmagee7541]

@@DieselMike replaced both inner and outer bearings and races. ripped threw multiple seals across multiple brands including OEM. confirmed part numbers. off to buy a bigger hammer. only thing left to do is throw my purse at it. please do left me know if you think of anything else. are there tools to get this thing seated? thanks again.

[@DieselMike]

@@mattmagee7541 I'm sorry to hear you are having such issues. It should not be that difficult to seat as you see in my video. It sounds like you have the wrong seal for your axle. Is it possible you bought parts for the axle you 'think' you have, but perhaps a previous owner did an axle swap? What truck do you have? Year/Model/single rear wheels or duel? If your truck is like mine, it should have the Sterling 10.5. If it's a dually it should have the Dana 80. Do you know the history of the truck? Is there anyway it might have a custom axle? If so, check to see if you have an axle tag attached to one of the bolts on the differential cover. That will provide precise information of the actual rear axle on your truck (as opposed to what a VIN lookup may be telling you)

[@mattmagee7541]

@DieselMike it's a 2003 F-250 super duty 5.4L single rear wheels. I also believe it's the sterling 10.5 but I will triple check for axel housing stamps when the sun is up. That axel tag rusted away a long time ago. This was my father's truck that he bought new. Never heard anything about rear end issues or an axel swap. I was able to get one side done yesterday. I overtightened that axel nut, backed it off, rotated hub, rinsed and repeat. Seated enough to clear brakes, rotate freely, and have axel nut torqued down to spec. Thoughts?

[@DieselMike]

@@mattmagee7541 Sounds like you got it with that proper torque sequence. Just remember to top off gear oil at the differential fill hole when you are done with both sides before you take it for a ride. Also ride slow in the beginning to insure that the fluid finds it's way back to each hub before you start doing 70 on a highway. I like to to go forward and reverse a few times on the driveway at a crawl.