Replace Stihl Chainsaw Crankcase Seals and Vacuum Test

Vacuum test and replace seals on a Stihl 024av chainsaw
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[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks for watching. Stihl chainsaw cylinders are coated to help them last a ton longer. Honeing a cylinder removes this coating and shortens the life. IF the cylinder is scored then yes hone it, if not leave it. Rings are really up to you. You can check to see how badly worn your old rings are by inserting them into the head and checking the end gap.

[@localcrew]

I used to have a '65 Ford F-700 dump truck. It was pretty cool. Sold it. Now I have a '79 F-600 dump truck. The show must go on! I also have a mess of Stihl chainsaws. I have a few old ones and it never occurred to me to replace the crankshaft seals. I think I'll probably be doing just that here before too long. Thanks for posting this nice tutorial.

[@douglasengle2704]

Thank you for the video. I was surprised you had to open up the crank case to replace the crank case seals. On my Shihl brush cutter FS66 the crank seals are replaced from outside the crank case making it a fairly simple job just needing to remove the flywheel and get the seal out. A method for getting a starting hole in a seal to pull it out is to use a spring center punch multiple times. My Shihl FS66 brush cutter appears to use standard industry shaft seals DIN 3760-BS10x20x5. For people that have machines that no longer have manufacture pats available they might try to see if the machine is using standard industry seals. The industry seals for the FS66 state they are not to be used for pressure and are only good to < 0.5 bar vacuum. Well 0.5 Bar is about 7.45 psi which is more than a 2-cycle engine with crank case pumping is suppose to generate in vacuum or compression. This maybe why when doing pressure tests on chainsaws it is said to limit them to 7 psi. Walbro carburetors states a 2-cycle engine pulse has an 8 psi differential pressure. This is enough differential pressure a fuel pump driven by this pressure differential doesn't require a return spring, but a 4-cycle engine fuel pump running off manifold vacuum differential pressure is only 2 psi and requires a return spring in the fuel pump t make use of this low pressure differential.

[@sixtyfiveford]

They're fun. I see very little of the vehicles you have over there here. Thanks for watching and Happy Christmas to you to.

[@Sensei948]

140 psi good compresion 372xp oe?

[@DustinRogersinMO]

My late father-in-law gave me an old Poulan Micro XXV years ago. It’s a great little limbing saw. I used it for a couple years and then I started having issues with it running. Carb rebuild, etc but it was a real pain to start so I tucked it away for another day. I dug it out of the shed over the weekend. I’m going to have to give this method a try to check if I’ve got air leaks. I was able to find a cross reference number for the old discontinued seals.

[@sixtyfiveford]

I have a few of those Poulan saws. Great little saws.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Happy Xmas to you as well. Thanks for watching!

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing job, and a reminder to everyone with any twostroke engine :-) Ive yet to see a motorbike do this but the day will come when i use your knowledge :-) Thanks for the tutorial :-) Hope your having a happy xmas/holiday :-)

[@316StSt]

Thanks for making this video. Found it very useful and informative.

[@sixtyfiveford]

You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

[@sherryalsop1488]

7

[@sixtyfiveford]

Great Trucks. Probably both gas powered. Thanks for watching.

[@sixtyfiveford]

If you're not getting it to pop at all I would first check fuel. A couple of drops of 2 stroke down the throat of the carb. If no go then I would check spark. If both check out I would test compression. You can dump a little motor oil down the spark plug hole then reinstall the plug to see if you have enough compression to start.

[@localcrew]

Right you are. The F700 came with a 391 but had a 390 in it when I got it. The F600 has the 370-2V but has had a Holley 4V and manifold installed somewhere along the line. I just got the F600 and I'm piecing it together. Master cylinder, water pump. Hydrovac cylinder needs a rebuild. Gotta rebuild all the wheel cylinders, I'm sure. The truck has been sitting with blown brake lines for about ten years. I love a challenge, I guess. Plus, I'm poor. There's that. Merry Christmas, my friend!

[@sixtyfiveford]

Directly behind the air filter where the engine sucks air into the engine through the carb. If the plug is wet it is getting to much fuel and it wont start (flooded). Pull the plug and give it a dozen pulls to un flood it. Then reinstall the plug and try starting it with out choke.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Merry Christmas to you and yours!

[@dand4564]

Saved my ass again! Favorite channel 😁

[@phillipkramer1897]

I love using my bent victorinox multi head tool for things like that which is awesome and can be purchased alone for under 15 dollars on ebay.

[@Gxs40]

Hi I love your videos!!! I was wondering I am replacing one cylinder for another used one stihl on ms 290. Do i need to replace the rings and hone the cylinder? Do you ever hone aftermarket cylinders? Thanks

[@ghettotech9617]

i watched this years and and learnt how to fix thanks

[@1968hambone]

Great stuff 65...thx for posting!

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks Man.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Put only 2-3 drops of fuel down the throat of the carb and see if you can get it to fire off (any more fuel and it will flood).

[@MrAdrianojujuba]

great vid, and useful information ,thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks.. Glad you enjoyed it.

[@sixtyfiveford]

You got me. I was looking at he gauge and saw the Hg and somehow thought Hydrogen even though I know its inches of Mercury. You say some stupid stuff when you know you're being video taped. Thanks for watching.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Merry Christmas to you and yours.

[@bctruck]

nice work! what is it that you do for work? Merry Christmas!

[@hosocat1410]

Good job. I like your innovation.

[@sixtyfiveford]

I have wanted an old dump truck for years. I've worked on a couple for friends. Someday.

[@bojangles6239]

You would need a driver

[@942doc1]

alright,i just put starting fluid into the cylinder and it ran for like 2 seconds and then died..It was smoking like crazy too,you think it could be from that fully synthetic oil that i put when i was installing the top end?And actually i change my mind about the flooded part i was cranking it about 20 times right now and it wasn't flooded,you were right sorry..But then what could it be if i got fuel in the carb and it's not getting into the combustion chamber,impulse line?But it does look good.

[@Gxs40]

rebuild carb, new fuel line and impulse line and doesn't start good compression. Plug dry clean the main jet several times and doesn't even pop. Any suggestions? thanks again for videos

[@murph2521]

How did you split the cases? I'm doing the same job on my 026 and don't have a case splitter.it also seems to be one with the inverted seal that won't come out with the screw trick.

[@sixtyfiveford]

If it popped then your coil should be sparking. This leaves a shorted spark plug, fuel delivery and compression. It is pretty rare for a Stihl coil to die but they are warranted for life.

[@RG-wy1ol]

Thanks for making this video 👍🏽

[@sixtyfiveford]

Glad it was helpful!

[@neilw4881]

Great tip thanks for sharing👍

[@sixtyfiveford]

If the plug is wet and it wont start then it is getting to much fuel and wont fire. If the plug is dry and it wont fire it's not getting any fuel. Generally if it is not getting fuel the main jet on the carb is gummed up.

[@942doc1]

Hi i have a question...i got this saw husqvarna 350 that i got from a guy and the piston and cyl were scored like to a point where you can't pull the rope..anyway i put a new piston cylinder and got a new carb.i also put fully synthetic oil on the piston and everything was good,but the saw never started.. i got fuel in the carb, good spark,definantly air, and pretty good compression,and it still doesnt start any idea why?maybe crankcase seals?thank you in advance

[@Gxs40]

It popped it and it still doesn't start. How often have you seen ignition coil go bad?

[@chicchoc9]

Hi - nice video. Did you freeze the case and then heat and tap the crank to split the case (without proper tools) or if not, how did you do it? and for reassembly, did you use heat or cool to put together? i need to split my 064 and add bearings and have read guys who use heat and cool to get bearings to drop in, etc.. have some play in bearing and it threw a new seal in no time.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Freezing/Heating is only for ease of reassembly.

[@mph5896]

I clicked on your video due to the cool old trucks you were standing in front of. I have the same saw

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks.. I'm glad they grabbed your attention.

[@jasonmushersee]

My mccullock 610 is doing that. It's got enough compression to rip my arm out of socket but won't idle & runs great when cutting. I always drain the gas so i don't know whats going on.

[@942doc1]

well no the carb has fuel and the primer bulb is full...and compression if it's like really hard to pull than it has compression right?And i have spark i'm positive...what else do you think could be wrong,maybe fuel?

[@sixtyfiveford]

A little bit of everything. Fix this, fix that :) If you can make money at your hobbies it's always fun. Merry Christmas to you and yours as well. -Moe

[@sixtyfiveford]

An hour-two. I was hoping I could pull the seals with the wood screw method, but they were just to small.

[@thanxx]

good video pal. very informative. have you got a video of you splitting the case please?

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sorry, don't have a video on it. But there are good videos on youtube of splitting the case.

[@johnclarke6647]

Buy a Tee handle 27 torx bit. I also bypass the use of my Mighty Vac by just spraying break cleaner around the flywheel and clutch when the saw is idling. If the seals are leaking, the saw will die like a stone. My flywheel side seal on my 024 was leaking like a sieve and the saw died as quick as I sprayed break cleaner near the flywheel. It did not die when I sprayed it around the clutch, so I assume that side seal is ok. I will replace it, anyway.

[@mustie1]

nice repair vid, how long did it take you,

[@sylkelster]

I know a woman from work that could pull 150 inches/Hg through a 2 inch diameter hose. Helps when you don't have the mechanical tool variants laying around.

[@moisesbeltran2612]

Thanks for the advice, i think that is what's wrong with my 021.

[@sixtyfiveford]

I hope you get your saw back and running.

[@tinkergene]

I am working on a 021 and it’s doing the same thing - (saw has a “ attitude ). - tip the saw on its side and it quits - doesn’t start after it warms up - going to ask the owner what he wants to do - may not be worth putting the $ into it - had the carb off 3 times- and it would flood the spark plug 🤨

[@moisesbeltran2612]

Hi tinkergene, the crankcase seal did fix that chainsaw, you might also want to check out "donyboy73" he's got a lot of great advice as well.

[@whistlepunk6093]

So I have an 026 that basically does the same thing. Sounds really lean on the high end and wont idle and bogs. Did this fix it? I'm asking cause I've sent my saw to the saw shop and they charged me what the saw was worth and i got no results.guy said he dont know what's wrong with it. I got new carb and tank vent.

[@josephgoodman6506]

Hi Sixty, I'm over the pond in England, nice vid, your workshop looks a shambles...............like mine, but I bet you know where every tool is. :-) I'll bet panic sets in though, when a spring launches itself and other components bouncing around all the junk and you can hear them tinkling away into dusty corners to vanish forever. :-0 Just a quick note, ins HG on a vac gauge is inches of mercury not Hydrogen.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yeah, I don't know why I said Hydrogen on the video.

[@hayesdlhs]

an element is an element. the fact that you said it wasn't lb per inch was the important thing. great video.

[@942doc1]

Wait where exactly is the throat of the carb?And if the spark plug gets flooded from fuel so then i do have fuel?

[@lazio20roe]

Im working on a ms200 pretty easy overall, got the bearings back in the case with the oven/ freezer method. I didn't want to put the seals in with the case too hot as i thought it might warp the plastic seals. They wouldn't go in cold so i tried the oven/ freezer method again. The seals were not wanting to go in at all, i got one in but i broke the second one, any advice on how to get the seal in without damaging it, i don't really know why it went in on one side and not the other, cheers in advance

[@sixtyfiveford]

lazio20roe They usually just need a good lube with grease or oil and they slide right on. Room temperature is good.

[@charleshowlett1291]

Seal installer

[@phillipkramer6638]

Wonder why the rings wouldn't fit? Change the manufacturer made on the design. I picked up a fuel tank vent for a stihl trimmer that was to wide for the hole. Sucks when the dealer doesn't tell you there are multiple options for that part and only one is correct.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Sounds like fuel to me. Try a couple drops down the throat of the carb with the choke off.

[@happyday5070]

Good man. How many employers do you turn down.

[@sylkelster]

Hg means inches of mercury, as Hg is the elemental descriptor for mercury. But good video anyways. Thanks, Redd.

[@Vdubin64bug]

What brand crank seals did you use ? I've got a little 021 that I have literally rebuilt/replaced everything on except for the crank seals.. It still runs a bit rough and does not like to idle.. I probably should have started with the crank seals first.. Thanks..

[@sixtyfiveford]

I really don't have a brand preference with these.

[@Vdubin64bug]

sixtyfiveford Cool brother.. Thanks for the reply..

[@sixtyfiveford]

Low compression can also give random symptoms like poor/erratic idle.

[@Vdubin64bug]

sixtyfiveford Fresh everything.. Top far from broken in.. Love your videos man.. I've watched a bunch.. I'm here in sunny Southern California.. I'm a Ford guy too.. Currently looking at a new diesel 250.. Or rather last body style.. I don't care for the 17's

[@Vdubin64bug]

I have Stihl everything!

[@KRAMPUS_G60_16V]

Exactly the same like mine! :D 1987?

[@dustyanderson1]

Great video and nice fix!!! I agree, it's a pain to have a saw (or anything else) that wont hold an idle. Merry Christmas!!!

[@942doc1]

Update:the saw ran for a bit but one of the wrist pin went out of place and the piston seized..But the cylinder might be fine..

[@phillipkramer1897]

Are you going to retach your saw to make sure the WOT's RPM's are correct and not exceeding the recommended maximum allowed?

[@sixtyfiveford]

You can easily do it by ear, tuning the fuel mixture on the carb.

[@phillipkramer1897]

I was talking about setting the H screw on the carb not the L one. Thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

Yeah, I know. You can set the High by ear. Turn H to run fast and smooth then turn out the screw to richen up the mixture. You'll hear the engine start to bog and slow, leave it there. Just setting it to a specific RPMs doesn't guarantee a properly adjusted carb.

[@942doc1]

Anyway THank you sixtyfiveford for helping me out a bit..

[@bg147]

I was wondering what symptoms existed? I am working on an old piece of crap Poulan MIcro 25 I bought for a dollar at an auction and $50 later, it smokes, is impossible to adjust properly , races when I tip the bar down and stalls when I lift it back up, runs rough, etc. Thank you.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Generally that racing is a broken fuel line in the fuel tank.

[@phillipkramer1897]

What does the impulse line do normally and what does it connect to? Thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

Goes from the crankcase to the carb. Helps run the fuel pump.

[@phillipkramer1897]

Any idea why a 4mix blower only wants to run either on choke or from the primer bulb.; Its like it doesn't want to pull fuel out of the fuel line otherwise. Thanks for any insight you may possibly be able to give me. I only know its not the carb and the muffler is clean too. Thanks

[@sixtyfiveford]

The diaphragm in the carb usually dries out.

[@phillipkramer6638]

I was able to try it out with a good carb on it and it still did the same thing as before. Thinking its got a serious air leak maybe but not sure. It dirty around the pull start and flywheel area much faster then I believe it ever should.

[@SuperJetjockey]

Hi, I am getting oil leaking into my fuel tank on my Stihl 075. Any ideas on how I can fix it? If I run the saw without oil, it runs perfectly.

[@sixtyfiveford]

SuperJetjockey If bar oil is leaking into the gas tank and vise versa, then the gasket between them has failed.

[@SuperJetjockey]

Thanks, I thought that it was a leak between the two tanks, but didn't know if it was a common problem, and how I was going to disasssemble the saw to get at the problem. I have succeeded in finding a diagram but I have my roof to re-shingle before I look at any other projects. Thanks

[@wtbm123]

Cool.

[@lovestihlquality1369]

Seems the biggest pita is getting all handle parts lined up and back in place. I never see that step? Great video. Thanks Ed

[@43128lucky4]

this is why you do not buy cheap aftermarket parts from ebay, theirs a reason why your only paying 40 bucks for a cylinder, piston, and rings

[@johnclarke6647]

I could spend $300 for the same thing from Stihl and have just as good of a warranty. I use some Stihl parts in my Farmertec saws but am very selective which one I use. A lot of Stihl parts do not work as good in Farmertec saws. Seals are one of them. I do like to use Stihl master control levers and throttle parts if I have problems in that area. However, I have found that if a specific part does not work, just replace it with another Farmertec parts from a seller on eBay. I think Farmertec is dumping their out of spec parts in the saw kits and selling their spec parts on eBay.

[@marksmopar609]

My 440 does the same exact thing

[@johnclarke6647]

Buy a T handle 27T handle. They are cheap and if you work on Stihl saws they are a necessity.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Very True.

[@94SexyStang]

My saw has NO problems idling....but when I give it gas, it Runs off....then drops back down eventually. Brand new crank seals, Top End, gaskets, Vac tested and Holds! The only thing I can think of, is the Carb.....it's a China carb, never dialed it in.....I bought the saw on ebay, piston ended up being shot...so I NEVER heard it run in it's original condition.....just rebuilt the saw immediately when it arrived at my door, slapped a new carb on.....I'm thinking it's the Lowside setting on the carb, maybe too Lean? Carb was 2 /12 turns Out, when it arrived at my door....I dropped everything back to 1 turn out......but maybe that's just TOO lean.

[@sixtyfiveford]

It sounds like it's running lean. Turn the Low/idle out just until is starts to slow the engine( you may need to increase the idle speed screw to keep it from dying). Then REV the saw wide open and turn the High jet out until is also begins to slow the speed of the saw. Now rev it a few times from an idle. If it hesitates you need more turn out on the Low/idle screw.

[@peanutman6593]

Original problem sounded to me like you’re low speed idle adjustment needed opened up a little. The symptom is identical to what you experienced.

[@geojor]

bought a stihl 260, first time I tried it the chain would seize in the bar, took it to dealer and he said this was normal, told me to keep trying it and eventually it would work itself out, but it never did, it's a lot of money to pay for the chain seizing in the bar groove...returned the chainsaw, and got another one from a different dealer, the same thing happened in this one but not as bad (ms290), also found out the 290 has plastic crank bearings, woopy ding...any comments would be appreciated...

[@sixtyfiveford]

I've never ran into a chain seizing into the bar and I have ran a ton of chainsaws. Improper lubrication or just to large of chain gauge for the bar are the only thing that would cause this. Were they both new?

[@stihl3826]

Dealer telling you that chain seizing in the bar. Don’t go to that dealer again. Nothing normal about it. Chain too tight

[@MrDiJ1980]

InHg is inches of mercury, not hydrogen.

[@stihl3826]

Buy OEM parts. Simples

[@phillipkramer1897]

Don't buy cheap non Caber or Koblering brand piston rings or anything not approved by the manufacturer unless you are going to go ahead and buy the whole new top head for your tool. I have never seen piston rings sold for anything of mine that didn't fit right. I have only replaced rings on probably 6-8 tools.

[@rumplestiltskin509]

You never showed the reseal on the case or the shaft seal replacement. Saw=bench full of parts=test=saw.

[@jdmuckenfuss7082]

Or you could just get a seal puller and not have to split the case and make a 20 minute job of it. One also should pressure test also.

[@billwilson3665]

or you could use your mighty vac

[@johnkosheluk1041]

Or you can get a miti vac for 100 00

[@yrulooknatme]

nice fords.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Thanks.

[@BrianSmith-gp9xr]

That is my problem

[@joeeveryman2208]

It isn't Hydrogen it is mm or inches of Mercury, Hg is short for Hydrargentum the Latin word for it.

[@sixtyfiveford]

I did know that I mispoke but I had no idea why HG was the acronym for Mercury. Thanks for the Latin meaning.

[@joeeveryman2208]

@@sixtyfiveford We all have to learn my friend, my old dad told me back in the sixties, just passin it on.

[@johnkosheluk1041]

Why don't you just get a t 27

[@thomasgronek6469]

Anything OTHER than Stihl OEM is not so good. Ya get what you pay for.

[@sixtyfiveford]

Very Annoying.

[@007more7]

No fucking thanks