Replace Thermostat of Ford Falcon FG, BA, BF

[@simonilett998]

So many things wrong in this video. Drain some coolant before removing thermostat housing and it won't gush out everywhere. Only the top half of the old thermostat was removed, what about the lower half still in the engine?? No paper gasket required, he fitted a rubber seal, that seal is all that was needed. Clean the seal recess in the thermostat housing of scale and debris before fitting the new thermostat, or it may leak. Add some silicone grease or rubber grease to the rubber seal to help it fit nicely, not vaseline as that will deteriorate the rubber. Fit the new thermostat with the jiggle pin at 12 o'clock position. No need to overtighten the bolts and slip off and round them off or potentially snap them as seen here, around 20Nm is plenty.🤣👍🇦🇺

[@BennyBestt]

Thankyou mate, I didn't realise that rubber o-ring has a split on the inside of it. Cheers

[@Mothy2014]

I just changed my thermostat on my AU. I was told not to use the paper gasket with the rubber seal. But a few videos like this one use both.

[@arm7987]

I didn't think you could get so many things wrong changing one of these thermostats. For future viewers, the jiggle hole in the thermostat goes at the 12 o'clock position, paper gasket not needed only the rubber ring, smearing the rubber with Vaseline first helps it seal properly and the bolts should be done up evenly to 21Nm each, not FT. Otherwise you permanently distort the housing. P.S. Did you find the thermostat valve in the housing there? Or is it still floating in the engine?

[@earthislevel]

Fascinating... You're everywhere. Honk!

[@arm7987]

@@earthislevel Yes, but only in this Multiverse. In others I'm far more elusive. 😁

[@Deadshilz]

Question from a noob mate as ive never done a thermostat replacement before. Do i have to empty the coolant out first before replacing the thermostat or can i get away with undoing the housing and letting what ever coolant thats in the line basically fall over the floor and then replace and tighten everything back up to the specs you provided?

[@arm7987]

@@Deadshilz If you keep the coolant cap on tight and there are no other leaks in the cooling system then you can unbolt the upper housing and only a small amount of coolant will dribble out. And you can remove the thermostat and the coolant will stay level with the face of the housing. At most only 100 or 200ml should dribble out. The factory radiator has a drain point right at the base of the passenger side tank. Its a wing nut shaped screw in plug. If you put a bucket under that area, specifically under the hole in the black bumper tray and remove the plug a very small trickle of coolant will come out. Then very very slowly open the cap on the coolant tank and it will increase the flow of the coolant out the drain hole, you can control how much and how fast it flows out with how open the cap is. If you do it slow enough it will leak onto the tray then straight down through that hole into the bucket. Get maybe 1 to 1.5L out and that will be enough to lower the coolant past the level of the housing so you can do all this work dry without loosing much coolant. Most aftermarket radiators have this drain plug too, but not all. Whatever you do, don't loosen the tank cap fully with any hoses disconnected or all the coolant will gush out. The cooling systems on these Falcons are all self bleeding. So once you put it all back together and top up the coolant, to no more than half way, take the car for a drive to get it upto operating temp where the thermostat opens and when that happens it will bleed any air out of the system back into the coolant tank. Then when its cold, check the level again and top up as necessary to no more than half way again.

[@Deadshilz]

@@arm7987 thanks mate appreciate it

[@RupinderSingh-fg5bh]

Thnks very helpful

[@marklowe7431]

20Nm

[@MrEshta26]

How do we know it's thermostat issue

[@JaeRAnson]

Overheating problems at about 2000 rpm or 60k an hour