Replacing the Pitman Arm and Setting Alignment On Our 1973 Plymouth Duster

[@Mopardude]

20 years ago when I rebuilt the steering in my Dart I bought a 1 5/16 socket from NAPA to do the job. Nice S&K socket, pricey back in those days. Its the only thing I have ever used that size for. LOL

[@jerayracing]

This cheap 16 dollar socket took a beating using the impact. If it works a few time I guess it’s ok. Thanks for watching

[@BadTreeProductions]

Sweet video. A must watch for a certain hippie out there

[@jerayracing]

😂😂 definitely might need to check into it lol

[@BigfootsnMopars]

Getting the kinks out!

[@kamdawg93]

Is that the summit racing brand sublime green? Thanks !

[@jerayracing]

Car was painted in 1997, single stage sublime green. I do not remember the brand. It has held up well over the years.

[@79asspin]

Good job you guys.

[@rong4189]

Good job. The previous alignment had to be eating up a couple tenths in the quarter.

[@jerayracing]

For sure! We will have a video out soon if the track day after this. Stay tuned!

[@MuscleCityMadness]

Good Stuff! 👍

[@ericm9694]

Replacing the pitman arm is in the title of the video, but it's not actually shown in the video, there's just a statement... so I replaced the pitman arm and now I need to torque it. Please show the thing that's in the video title.

[@trackandtravelwithrick8933]

We showed how to remove, what socket to use, the difference between manual and power steering pitman arms. I gave the torque spec, I’m not sure I understand your question but I’d be glad to help. I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching.

[@ericm9694]

@@trackandtravelwithrick8933 I mean time index 7 minutes 29 seconds. I wanted to see the pitman arm go on and be connected to the linkage. I'm sort of doing the same thing with my car right now, it's the first time I've done suspension work so it helps me to see it. I can't get both ends secured, but I have the arm back on the gearbox.. I'm sure I'm doing something stupid. Thanks for your response!! Happy holidays!!

[@jerayracing]

I’m sorry we didn’t get straight to the point with it. I completely understand, I hate trying to find a how to and there a lot of talking and not working. My “how to’s are never really dedicated how tos I guess you could say but going forward if we are trying to show something we will try to get to the point. Thanks you!

[@trackandtravelwithrick8933]

Gotcha, we should put time stamp when we get to it if we don’t get straight to it. I’ll work on that with Ricky We’re learning

[@Scott-qe6ih]

I'd really look into addressing that K-frame. That thing looks sketchy. What's that from? Original? Was that done just to clear the oil pan? I've got an aluminum 8qt Charlies and all I had to do was put a small notch (about an inch of the lip) near one of the corners. I'd think that K-frame being like that would cause stability issues at speed as well. Not busting on you by any means, I just want you guys to be safe. 👍 By the way, for a Duster at the track.... 0* Camber and Caster with 1/8th inch Toe in.

[@jerayracing]

Don’t look too close at the k frame It is heavily notched for the oil pan and boxed in We can still lift the car from it. It is ugly but It is safe.a new k frame is in the works Thanks for watching

[@docfischer7291]

After these cars rot apart Mopar K frames will be floating in space when this planet decides to self destruct some day. Hah…. That’s probably what the moon craters are formed from.

[@trackandtravelwithrick8933]

Appreciate the alignment specs. I know the k frame is important to not flex. Combination of the 727 hitting the trans tunnel and pan hitting the k frame making it very difficult to remove or install the engine so we notched and boxed it best we could on the car.

[@vincentmalavolta6645]

Please remove the column handle thx

[@Ridendrty]

Are those moog parts made in China?

[@jerayracing]

Made in USA very surprised.

[@Ridendrty]

Great!