REPOINTING STONE WORK (Part 9) Mike Haduck

I spend a couple hours at the station house in Ashland Pa. with Paul Murphy (Ashland historical preservation society) Repointing a 1867 stone building, All my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest anyone doing any type of work to consult professional help.
Paul Murphy (717-578-8971)
tee shirts , etc.teespring.com/stores/mike-haduck-masonry
Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/mikehaduck/list/10B4SSLAPEW9I
web site - mikehaduck.com/

[@speedracer2336]

As usual Mike, another great video and I learned a lot. Thank God we have your expertise to keep these old buildings standing!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks James, I appreciate the kind words, Mike

[@jamtlandhomesteaders2710]

Another fine job Mike* It's great to keep these old stone buildings going!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Jamtland,,, Mike

[@Eyes_Open]

Great video. I grew up in a stone house on a farm from the late 1800s. I think it was built from the stone that was removed during construction of the Rideau canal in the Perth, Ontario, Canada area. The house was repointed around 10 years ago and it looks amazing. I was always told the barn was a Pennsylvania style.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Eye's open, Mike

[@TP-xi7ri]

You make it look so easy, and when you're done it always looks great. Keep up the good work. TP

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks TP, Mike

[@RubinsRacing350]

I've been using 3 to 1 - Portland, sand , type s for all my outdoor masonry projects. Got that formula from you Mike many many years ago, thanks Mike!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks John, Mike

[@RubinsRacing350]

@The Ultimate Troll I'll be dipped! You got me Mr troll. Thanks for the heads up, thanks again troll.

[@RubinsRacing350]

@The Ultimate Troll I fixed it, check it out! That's better , right?

[@joer6248]

That is a neat old building. The oak beam over the window has held up amazingly well given much of it is exposed to the elements.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Joe, your right, if they could keep it from getting wet, it would last a lot longer, thanks Mike

[@Richard-qs8dn]

That building sure ain't got no gaps no more. You and Paul, make a great team Sir.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Richard, Mike

[@wcsd9577]

A nice piece of history. Thanks for taking care of it.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks WCSD, Mike

[@moorelandhouse]

Mike, I have learned a ton about masonry from you. However, I have seen first hand the damage that is done by putting cement mortar over lime mortar. As we restore the limestone walls on our Romanesque Revival mansion we see the drastic difference between places that have been untouched and the places that have been "repaired" by tuck pointing it with cement mortar. The cement mortar traps moisture behind it and decays any lime mortar that was left in the wall. I have watched all your videos and respect your opinion but I will have to agree to disagree on pointing over lime mortar with cement mortar. But, like you say, what works in Pennsylvania doesn't work in Miami. I do believe this particular stone building you just did will be okay since it looks like it is much harder stone than the Indiana Limestone I have to work with. Again, not trying to start controversy, just wanted to state my piece. Thanks for your very educational videos. I couldn't have rebuilt an entire castle wall without your help.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Harrods,, I respect your opinion, thanks for the comment, Mike

[@Citizenspress]

what do you use?

[@mikeythamason]

@@MikeHaduck it’s not an opinion it’s backed by Science

[@robertcrabtree2442]

EXACTLY! And then when he dogs lime mortar. "It doesn't hold up in my climate." I disagree. I live in a 122 year old home in northern Ohio. I have 122 year old lime mortar joints that function just fine. The lime joints need tuckpointed every 50 years. Picking out a building having never been tuckpointed in 100 years then saying see it doesn't work. Just wrong. Areas of my home that did need attention? None of the glazed clay block had cracked. Meanwhile? A client had some movement in a cement and cinder block foundation. 3 cracked blocks and 1/2 inch gaps in some mortar joints on a 35 year old home. In my homes case inches of movement and no cracked blocks. Me personally? Lime mortar is far, far, far better then cement mortar. Moisture flows through the joints to the plaster, where it dissipates. As it dries it releases the freshest air in the home. The mortar heals itself for about 50 years where it will need servicing. The lime wash keeps the surface of the lime plaster dry. It was the natural dehumidifier and humidifier before modern heat systems. Good God the damages done to my old home by cement believers. They used cement tuck pointing. Trapping moisture at every mortar joint. As opposed to moisture dissipating it dropped to the bottom of the wall where it leaked in. Their answer? Put up 2 ' of plastic at the bottom with a drain tile around the perimeter. You guessed it. A missing gutter. And water held back by plastic? Liquidized the lime mortar to a putty. The walls moved in. My solution? Pull all the plastic. Brace the walls. Remove all cement mortar. Tuck point with lime mortar out of a lime mortar gun. Then cap with 2 coats of lime mortar. The results? No water on the floor. Dampness after 2 day rains at mortar joints where it should be. Nice clean air over the next day as moisture inside the home is drawn outdoors. A superb system. A 65k foundation job done for 1200 dollars worth of type s lime and sand. A critical, critical feature of using lime mortar and lime plaster. Dear God don't listen to your dad. He does not know. The true masters of this skill in America died in the 1950's. Mix type S lime into lime putty 100 gallons at a time. Let crystalize for months. Then mix with sand until suction is at 5" pile upside down on a hawk. Then add water to consistency. Cracking is expected in the first coat unlike cement. Called the crack coat in England. Wet down completely before applying top coats. In my case? From thousands in damages from cement coatings? Lime mortar is best by far. On 75% of the exterior of my 123 year old home the lime mortar joints are still good. :)

[@moorelandhouse]

@@Citizenspress We got quicklime and mix our own hot lime mortar. One part quicklime and three parts sand. If you like stonework, you should check out our "small" project. =)

[@roccoconte2960]

Beautiful stone building great job Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Rocco, Mike

[@jrashe21]

Your videos are fantastic. I really appreciate them and you!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks for the kind words, Mike

[@lendavidhart9710]

Thank you Mike, always enjoy watching your videos.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Len, Mike

[@DIYServiceTech-ij6bl]

I like how you are saying you're going to be pointing a wall while you are pointing at it with your finger. It made me laugh.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks DIY, Mike

[@johnknipe5752]

Mike is the best!!! I hope you live to 150 years old brother maybe 200 years old. I love your videos. Again thank you Michael for educating us masons. God bless you bro you’re the best

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks John, I appreciate it, Mike

[@johnknipe5752]

@@MikeHaduck I could watch your vids all day pal

[@saviotoronto358]

nice to see that building saved

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Savio, I think it's a good start, thanks Mike

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Richard, Mike

[@pauldomalakes2943]

No way! I was just checking this building out last week while driving through Ashland. It’s wild to see someone from the area that’s so knowledgeable and wants to save those hidden treasures.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Paul, Mike

[@ebw_servant_of_GOD]

Hey Mike, nice work helping with the Ashland Historic "REPAIRS." Being a person who studies history for over 50 years, the only way I have known for an archaeologist to bring a structure perfectly back to its original state is to REBULD it using original materials (cost prohibitive). Otherwise, the archeologist repairs the given structure(s) with modern materials and moves on. This is even hard with simple plantation estate of the 1860's. Sometimes the obvious slips people minds when they pretend to do what you have done for so long. Thanks for all you guidance and clear teaching.... God Bless Ernie

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Ernie, God bless, Mike

[@suep4530]

that was a cool video!! love those old buildings and they should be preserved when possible. History matters!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Sue, Mike

[@SNWEC]

Lol Thanks sue. Well, since you asked, Im a licensed and certified Facade restoration specialist in NYC. Ive got over 15 years of hands on experience in one of the most regulated markets in the world, NYC. Masonry preservation is my career, Im proud of it and its been in my family for years. I have been doing historical preservation for half of my lifetime and my father is a licensed civil engineer specialising in masonry and concrete for over 40 years in NYC. Apologies if my criticism rubbed you the wrong way, but i take destroying historical buildings and passing off the loor practices as knowledge to further propagate bad information somewhat seriously. We dont all have you tube channels, but we are out here. Im not at all alone in my professional criticism of thos video or these methods. If you are actually curious beyond being excessively defensive of a you tube personality, id suggest you do some research, this isnt secret knowledge.

[@SNWEC]

Instead of blindly accepting you tube videos as gospel, Sue, If you actually feel strongly about preserving historical structures, Id suggest you do your own research into the subject, youll find Im not lying or just being a d*ck.

[@cliodhnette]

Hi Mike, I'm currently doing a little stone retaining wall and I was skeptical when I saw how stiff you make the mortar. So I experimented with a looser mix, only to find that you're right 👍👍

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@tomdale1313]

Mike, good stuff "Get It Wet, tanks for sharing...

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Tom, Mike

[@1956vern]

Awesome Mike! Knowledge is in short supply! Thank you!🤪

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Gurl, Mike

[@elim7228]

This channel rocks, literally.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Eli, Mike

[@dazuk1969]

You know what I like about you Mike, you really don't make a big deal out of things and only do what is necessary. A lot of people would have made a big deal out of a job like this in a "it's all gotta come out kind of way". Anyway, great job and peace to ya Mike,

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Darren, Mike

[@avisitorhere]

Mike could you speak about something I've heard and that's, "don't use a mortar that is harder than the surrounding material." You are a big proponent of cement based mortars, so could you comment on the reasons why you use the material in relation to the surrounding brick or stone? Thanks Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi aviator, I did that video called, " lime or portland" what should I use? I explain it best there, if it's too hard it might crack the stone or brick before the mortar is one of the answers, thanks Mike

[@KC-1776]

Thanks Mike for the helpful video. I have a home built in 1910 in western PA. I need to repoint the field stone foundation in basement.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi kC, I am sure you will do fine, thanks Mike

[@ranger178]

keep up the good work mike

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Greg, Mike

[@402garage4]

Not a lot of lime mirror in my area, but every time we run into a repointing job with it (lime mortar) the architects always specs type K for pointing and it’s a much slower process for pointing back! Great vid thanks!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks 402, Mike

[@Brian-Burke]

Another great video, Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Brian, Mike

[@tomnapper101]

same old Kentish ragstone on the church back in the UK mike pont them the same way all use hulk and all different size finger trowels we would pont it flash to the joint then we would scrape joints back be slightly reset then we one dry put light brush over it would 4 inch paint brush and bucket of water paint the joints over bring the Agra out on joints look really good 👍 that's the way I was taunt old stone mason mike I've done loads of different stone pointing but you never stop learning so in press with h your work as I keep saying 10/10 mike top tradesman 👍

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Tom, it's good to hear the different styles, thanks Mike

[@victoryfirst2878]

Would using a squeeze bag work better for this repair Mike ?? Nice work as always fella. What do you charge for dental work. See I got this huge hole in one of my teeth...........

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi victory, I am not a fan of squeeze bags, to me you got to have the right consistency, but some people like them, thanks Mike

[@kevinmosgo5492]

Hi Mike! I just discovered your videos. I'm a jack of many trades, masonry not being one of them. The house I bought down here in Berwick, Pa, is an old block home. It's in good shape, but can use some small repairs, and preventative maintenance. My garage was the old carriage house, and that's made the same way. I just want to thank you so much for your videos, they're going to really help me a lot. I plan on watching every one of them. I'd love to be able to send you some pictures of my house, maybe you could tell me more about it, as far as what kind of block, techniques they may have used, etc. I have some spots that have eroded from poor gutter placement, and/or lack of proper water diversion.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Kevin, I am sure you will do fine, thanks Mike

[@oldmango8606]

well done. again. thanks

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks old man, Mike

[@SolidworksUnlimited]

Interesting videos Mike, love it 👍

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@Traderjoe]

Hey Mike, question: when old lime mortar is now pressed up against the new concrete, is there any kind of negative reaction with the new stuff? Does the lime mess up the strength of the new mix or cause it to prematurely crumble?

[@moorelandhouse]

This isn't Mike but I would like to comment anyway. =) We have done a lot of research and have been doing a restoration on a limestone/brick mansion that was built entirely with lime mortar. When they pointed it with cement mortar during modern repairs, it trapped moisture in the walls and caused the lime (which is the equivalent of the cement) to dissolve out of the sand and the entire structure was crumbling. That causes the newly installed cement mortar which is now just a shell, to crack and fall off. You now are left with an empty joint like you see toward the bottom of a lot of turn of the century brick walls. If you are curious, take a look at our channel and see what we have been able to do with the old fashioned lime mortar.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Joe, all the lime mortar does in our area is crumble and fall away, I never had a problem and it last longer, water goes right through the Portland also, I did that video, lime or Portland, what should I use? Thanks Mike

[@SNWEC]

@@moorelandhouse You are 100% correct. Lime mortar is what is to be used in these instances. This is video is a very good example of what NOT to do. Also, why pack the mortar between the wooden door jamb? Why not backerrod and caulk? The mortar will eat away at the wood and encourage further rotting.

[@anthonywall5227]

Thank you Mike

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Anthony, Mike

[@maxthroughput410]

Hey Mike, I appreciate your videos, I am learning a lot by watching them. I have a house that was built the same year as this Ashland house. It has timber framing built over a crawlspace with stone foundation. There are a few walls that are crumbling but the framing of the house is supported by much larger boulders that appear to be stable. How do I know when the stone wall is too far gone to restack/point the stones? Do I need to pour a footer beneath the failed walls? I can't afford to hire a contractor to lift the house and totally replace the stone walls with blocks. Thanks!

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Max, I can't say, I would ask somebody in your area, it's all basic, thanks Mike

[@brianofdenverofbrian]

Dear Mike, thank you so much for your videos, i am digesting all of your teachings. May I ask did you add any lime to this mix? Also, I recently pointed some old town steps in Edinburgh using Conbextra GP with no lime etc. The conbextra looks solid. But everyone keeps banging on about lime mortar. I have seen your videos and evidence on this that pure lime crumbles. Do you know if in Scotland they use a blend of lime and portland when pointing historical buildings that are a couple hundred years old or just pure lime? Thank you for your time.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Bri, it's a big contiversity about, what I have repaired and what I use I never had a problem, I have a video out called " lime, motar, or portland" what should I use? Mike haduck, I say what I think there, thanks Mike

[@peaceandfreedomeconomics8984]

That's a cool old building. Historic Pennsylvania! No mud trick on this one?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Comm, I thought of it but it has so many precious patches I didn't think it would show much. Thanks Mike

[@zacklamprey4784]

Awesome video mike great job

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Zack, Mike

[@nuclearchris832]

I love the look of the old stone buildings. How long do you estimate that repointing will last?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Nuclear, It depends on how wet it gets in winter for the most part. Thanks Mike

[@juancarreras1714]

Nice job uncle mike thankful you got a help, what is the tool you use to pack the cement into the joint?

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Juan, just a pointing trowel, Mike

[@Mainline2U]

Hey Mike, great vid as usual. I really appreciate your work. What are your thoughts on mortar pointing pointing guns?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I tried a bag once, it's OK but I am a bit old school, thanks Mike

[@jasonchampion9932]

Do you like to use the squeeze bag or cone bag for re jointing ? Seems like it may speed things up some 🤷‍♂️

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Jason, some use it but I think it is a lot faster and more embedded the old school way, thanks mike

[@jstorres486]

Great video Mike thank you! What’s the lowest temp I can work with mortar and stucco/ plaster? I’m here in Connecticut I wanted to dig out the joints on brick wall and repoint..

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I have a video out called "concrete. Block or brick in freezing temperatures, Mike haduck, that should help, thanks Mike

[@jstorres486]

@@MikeHaduck thank you! Will take a look

[@1clinkerman]

Very useful video, thank you!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks clinkerman,, Mike

[@RicArmstrong]

I've always wanted a modern stone house. I wonder what it would cost approximately to have a building like that built today?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Rico, I don't know if the code officials would let you, thanks Mike

[@nicholasmisch5590]

Hi Mike, love the video, thank you! Adding to another comment, wouldn't you want to use lime mortar in a building like that for the water vapor transfer? For the usage of the building currently what you did is probably perfect, but if someone was cooking and taking showers in there there would be a lot more water vapor to get out. That's what the guys in Ireland at the stone castles were using as well, same reasoning.... Again, not second-guessing you. Huge fan and love all your videos. Just a thought....

[@moorelandhouse]

We talk about the reasons we use "hot lime mortar" on our channel. It has it's place. It does require maintenance though.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Nicholas, I did that video " lime mortar or portland" what should I use? our buildings I don't see any of those problems, our winters kill exposed lime buildings, I don't know anybody who uses it, I don't even know where to buy it, so I know it's a issue to some but that's the way it is here, thanks Mike

[@moorelandhouse]

@The Ultimate Troll We go even farther than using NHL mortar. We have seen studies in the UK that the moisture is trapped by hydraulic limes. We use quicklime and mix up our own hot lime mortar. It's a lot cheaper as well.

[@georgeksirakis8898]

Thanks for your great vids Mike, im renovating an old cellar, with really poor stonework, theres an arch about 5 foot span over an opening, how would you point it up ?? Currently just supporting it from under...any tips would be greatly appreciatef, God bless

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi George, I couldn't say unless I was there to see it, with a arch I would talk with some local guys, thanks Mike

[@CONDOR9922]

Wrong video for this question but you seem very knowledgeable… Can I use Portland white cement for my basement walls? Or should I just paint it white?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Condor, I have a whole playlist called " foundation repair" Mike haduck, I show what I do in all those type of circumstances, thanks Mike

[@vitalilisau6181]

How about adding a bit of expanding cement to the mix? When the mortar dries, rather than shrinking and crumblingin the gaps, it will stand the same (or expand a bit), and fill in the cavities.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Vitali, I just stick what is proven and works for me, it's my best answer, thanks mike

[@denisconor648]

Great stuff.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Denis, Mike

[@dormindont1]

Хорошая работа, много ручного труда.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@krowraven7]

great video mike I love your website as well especially the bible studies. Thank you

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Dave, Mike

[@suzanneburke4330]

Thank you…very interesting.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Suzanne, Mike

[@jamesnoone8583]

No cement in any Lime mix, Lad !

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi James, I did a video called " lime or Portland " what should I use? I suggest you watch the whole thing, thanks Mike

[@remnantministries9398]

Mike I'm building a masonry stove and the fire box uses clay mortar, any tips working with clay?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I got some videos called " stone fireplace installation," but no one really builds them anymore, too much liability, everything is metal inserts, things have changed, thanks Mike

[@davemall1]

Can you talk a little about when and why to use Portland in mortar?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Dave, I have a video out called " lime or Portland " what should I use? That should help, thanks Mike

[@davemall1]

@@MikeHaduck Thanks, I did watch that video for a second time. I just feel like I am guessing when I add Portland to S mortar.

[@Mote78]

Seeing this was educational and made me think about the stone work of the ancients. Some done using granite weighing many tons yet so precise that you can’t stick a credit card between the joints even after many hundreds (or thousands?) of years with no maintenance. How did they do it? 🤷‍♂️

[@elim7228]

It was either cement or wood. Not carved out of granite.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Craig, I did a video called "carving stones with ancient technology" Mike haduck, it just takes time and money, thanks Mike

[@tomballew2390]

The second question is some of these crack joints are under bigger rocks kind of holding up the ones above them. If I remove it it looks like all the ones above it will come tumbling down. What do I do?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Tom, I can't say unless I was actually there to see it, thanks mike

[@KirkWagner147]

Hi mike. I plan on building a stone house with 20 inch thick walls. It’s on clay/ sandy soil. I saw in another video you recommended twice the wall thickness if you’re doing a block wall. Is that always the case ? My building official told me to just put lay a foundation 4 inches wider

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Kirk, anymore of course you got to deal with officials, but 4 inch ledge is not bid enough for stone work 6 to 10 inches, thanks Mike

[@tomballew2390]

Hey I have never done repointing before and your videos have been very helpful. I have a couple of questions. I’m redoing a flagstone vineyard house here in Arkansas and I’m using a straight mortar mix and when I use the sponge I’m smearing gray concrete mix all over my flag stones. What am I doing wrong?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Tom, if it's flat on the ground I only use Portland and sand, I got playlist called " stone patio installation " I show how I do ir, pro ably you have too much water on the sponge, ring it out good, thanks Mike

[@lazmotron]

Great Video

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Lazaro, Mike

[@AnthonyColon-vm1pz]

hey mike what kind of rocks are those at that station down at ashville pa dated 1867?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Anthony, it was a mixture of sand stone ,conglomerate, slag, etc, anything they could get at that time, thanks Mike

[@joannaking2852]

Mike I have a serious problem and in need of advice. I have a concrete front porch that has a wrap around 12 inch deep rock wall (rocks are from the property it seems) and it's separated from the concrete porch. The bigger problem is that the posts holding up the porch roof are on this wall. How do I reattach it to the concrete? Do I just refill the gap between the two with mortar?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Joanna, it's impossible to give advice over the internet, I would have to be there to see it, I would get opinions from the local guys, thanks Mike

[@luisfernando-mm3jt]

Nice work

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Luis, Mike

[@rharrell1]

In working on old brick chimneys built in the 1800's is it better to use an N concrete mix since it doesn't set up as hard in order to prevent the risk cracking the brick. I counter flashed some chimneys with lead and have not repointed them yet. The roofers were laughing at me for using lead but I told them the lead would still be there after the chimney was gone.

[@moorelandhouse]

As Mike always says, what works in his area might not work in yours. You might do a little research on hot lime mortar if you are truly interested in making sure the chimney will last as long as the lead. We are using hot lime mortar in the restoration of our stone and brick mansion.

[@mikeythamason]

@@moorelandhouse I live in his area . He has no clue why lime is supposed to have been used

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi rharrell, I always say, you do what works in your area, the old experienced masons know best, thanks mike

[@gwaynewilcox2702]

I build a mortar injection device to inject mortar. I have a collection of stones or make them to push into big joints to make the mortar proud.

[@MikeHaduck]

Tha KS Wayne, Mike

[@haroldfinch8481]

Will the mix used go through a grout bag? I’m a California boy so I think the mix may be different/easier to use on a grout bag.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Harold, I am not a fan of grout bags, I am more old school, Mike

[@haroldfinch8481]

@@MikeHaduck Thanks for the reply. Love your videos, you’re a craftsman sir.

[@jackgentner9243]

so you won't add any latex to the water while mixing just portland?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Jack, the family been doing it this way over 70 years, we never used it, thanks Mike

[@spartakmayakovski4797]

Nice sneakers 👟 Mike

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Spartak, I am a slave to fashion, lol, Mike

[@richardheinen1126]

How long will it take to do that whole building? Looks like a big project

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Richard, it is the scaffolding that takes the time, but I would only point it where it needs it, thanks Mike

[@1975CEES]

what do one do if a beam like that one over the door is rotten?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I would shore up the stones above it and replace it, usually one side at a time as I did in my lentils video, every situation is different, thanks Mike

[@cndbrn7975]

When starting to brick a new house we usually start at the back, unless we're doing a bunch of the same style houses.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Cnd, yep I agree and at the lowest point and lay it all out dry so no mistakes, thanks Mike

[@cndbrn7975]

@@MikeHaduck Yes ,the first thing my uncle taught me, when I started labouring for him years ago now, forget the tape and lay it all out in dry bond. I find it amazing, when I work with new bricky's that they would rather risk it because, it takes time or they're just too lazy. Thanks ..

[@cndbrn7975]

'm actually getting more into Vertical Hand Carved Decorative Concrete I'm doing my walkway that has an overhang about 2ft x 15ft. Then resurfacing a backyard bridge that goes over a little creek. I was thinking about carving a slate pattern but I'm not that confident yet lol, probably go with brick pattern and give it a reclaim paint job? Have you done any concrete carving? I'm thinking of using 2 Portland 1 sand and adding a little hydrated lime, for workability hopefully? ..

[@dr.heiter7002]

Spray down area and apply a type N (50% Portland and 50% lime) mixed 3to1 with sand and apply with a grout bag to completely fill the voids.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Dr. as long as it works it works, Every experienced mason knows what works best in his area, thanks Mike

[@davelowe1977]

Three years older than my house.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi David, that's an old house, thanks Mike

[@rec1962]

Shouldn’t you have used lime? You can already see where the stonework has turned to gypsum because Portland has been used in the past. There will be nothing left of the stone in 30 years. All that will be there is the pointing you did with a big gap where the stone used to be in between the Portland pointing

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, Rec, our family been doing this over 70 years and we never seen that. I just checked out a restoration Co who did a whole church , 3 sand 1/2 Portland 1/2 mortar and they agree lime don't hold up in our area, thanks Mike

[@npajoordens]

I guess in the US you can do anything to an old historic building ? Aren't they listed or are there rules and regulations about conservation? In the Netherlands a contractor would be sacked and made to pay damages if he used portland on a historic building due to its non-reversibility. Chiseling out a hard portland pointing would damage the soft bricks. in this case the stones are natural so i don't know the structural consequences.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Nico, I did that video " lime or Portland " what should I use? I suggest you watch it to the end, thanks Mike

[@billsmith1962]

Is it haunted...lol

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Bill, I bet it's got some history to tell, thanks Mike

[@alext8828]

1:20, doorway.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Alex, Mike

[@alext8828]

@@MikeHaduck Yeah, I thought that was of interest. Thanks for such great videos.

[@cristopherfrakes1416]

Pointing should be left to pointers. This video highlights this point nicely.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Chris, Mike

[@seanryan4047]

Don't do this. This is absolutely the wrong method for that building.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Sean, I did a video called, " lime or Portland " what should I use?, I suggest you watch it till the end, thanks Mike

[@jamesarnold6584]

how do you get away with work that bad 👎. to anyone watching don't use this as a reference.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi James ,send a link to your channel, I am always willing to learn, thanks Mike

[@wnybricky1559]

Please don’t ever do this.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Bricky, our family business has been doing it this way for over 70 years, never had a callback, if you don't understand " I have a video called " lime or Portland " what should I use? Mike haduck, I suggest you watch the whole thing, thanks Mike

[@philldavies8549]

@@MikeHaduck as I said in a previous post that I can no longer find, this video is really bad information. This cement based mortar pointing is detrimental to the original lime mortar joints. It prevents moisture transition into the lime mortar causing them to decay. As you asked on the other post what i had to offer.....Im a building conservation site manager who originally trained as a stonemason 30 years on the tools. I've worked on castles, palaces, churches and humble cottages, many over 1000 years old built and rendered with lime throughout the UK, Europe and Australia. So I have experience of using lime mortars in countries that hit -20° in winter to +40°c so yes I do know what I'm talking about.

[@wnybricky1559]

@@MikeHaduck Mike. You can’t use a different type of mortar then the rest of the building. As everyone has been saying it handles water differently. This is why people send their mortar on the building out for analysis. What you are doing is comparable to putting a shim on the outside edge of a building. The entire building moves as it was not built with expansion joints.. the lime mortar makes the whole building move slightly. What you are doing is comparable of giving it a knot in its back. The small amount of quickrete you are using isn’t going to stop that movement and it will just crack out. Also as stated there are now issues with water and the wall not breathing the same…. Water getting stuck behind the new mortar and freeze and thaw cycles. The lime mortar is supposed to fall apart.. in time. It is the fail point. That way you can come back many many years later and repair the property. Is the place falling over yet? Are there massive cracks in the stonework? I would say that whatever they used 150-200 years ago is holding up quite well. Lime mortar costs a lot more than the quickrete garbage you are using. Also.. Portland makes the mortar harder.. what you should be using if anything is more lime.. I will take this as that you misspoke because someone with your years of experience should know this. Many many many historical buildings are being permanently damaged by like practices. Me watching more of your videos are not going to make your careless tactics proper.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Bricky, God bless you, I am sure everything you do over in that part of the world works, here it don't work, I got to go around fixing every bodys work that you are preaching too. again I am sure it works there but it don;t work here, If you dont believe me come over and see for yourself, thanks again mike

[@wnybricky1559]

@@MikeHaduck Mike.. you have a very small section of the world then.. I was born outside of Philly and worked a lot in western New York and now in Charleston SC. Your methods would not be approved by the historical society in Charleston. It also wouldn’t be proper in Buffalo or Philadelphia. They are still working with Lime mortar in England. The mortar I buy here in Charleston is imported from Germany. Lancaster Lime works sells lime mortar pre made out of Willow Street Pa and they could of found a proper mix for the project. I have often told my clients that there may be other people that come and talk to them that are better salesmen that doesn’t make them right. Thank you for the blessing.