Restoring and modifying an old AHD windsurfing board.

[@HughSheehy]

Spray painting with a white car in the background? Brave man!

[@axx278]

🤙😂

[@wsurferdude_ct]

Yeah, a little cringe there.😂

[@JenoLeventeHorvath]

My friend did the same a couple of a years ago with an F2 Max 2 Air. BTW you are brave to paint the board outside using spray front of your car 😄

[@zeyof987]

This is clearly a work of art. Well done my friend 🔥

[@aeroegnr]

Soo cool! Excellent editing and great to see you go from old board to something totally different and sailing!

[@goldney]

It sails very well for an old board! Flat panel V, no concaves, so a bit slow to accelerate. But is fast, handles the chop well and carves nicely.

[@crapisnice]

you can try too to breath those toxic cancerigenous sustances

[@CC-mj3zq]

I hope this little older shapes come back around soon. Still can't get used to the newer shapes.

[@oceannesailor]

oh man. I actually have this same AHD gathering dust in storage. This is inspiring

[@38Laurent]

Congratulations, good job and beautiful "new" board 💪🤙

[@goldney]

@@38Laurent Thanks! FYI, I just finished another similar project. Added cutouts and refinished the first board I built...will be posting a video on that hopefully next week or so.

[@38Laurent]

@@goldney oh cool 👍 i am fond of windsurf, i am currently in holiday at Leucate (France). I also enjoy editing videos on premiere pro about concert, Mountain Bike...and windsurf 🤙...but, i do not know how to repare or modify a board 😁

[@conradrummer]

awesome work my man

[@robmain9921]

What a great video James! I'm planning to do something very similar to my Dad's old 2001 Mistral Naish Freeride 8'6" - 20cm shorter, nice rounded nose job and then silver, orange and red paint like the 2019 Naish Hover Crossover =)

[@goldney]

Sounds like a fun project!

[@charleskeefer152]

Great job ! I have a Naish wave board from the same era , I wish I had the skill and tools/ equipment to do this for my board

[@pt8543]

Good skills! Looks like you might need to restore that old Pryde sail too😄

[@karp3306]

Well done, very satisfying to watch

[@Davidallen9]

Great video. Appreciate the effort involved to film it. Would be awesome to get a write up of materials used and sources. maybe in the video description. Would be super useful for having a go at it myself.

[@goldney]

Thanks for your feedback. I just added a list of the materials used and where to find them in the description. Also a link to a good video of a complete board build. There are also some descriptions of the materials used in two other videos of complete board builds in my channel. Have fun with your project!

[@Davidallen9]

@@goldney wow, you're awesome. I'll take a look now

[@Clint_Moto34]

looks really nice

[@r.augenstein3286]

Realy great! Good job man!

[@rowingocean]

Very nice.... I want to do it on my old boards.

[@vedranlatin1386]

Using PU glue to reattach styrofoam together or to a delaminated deck underside is OK, but low expanding PU foam is a bit better match in density, also easier to apply with a PU gun. Your clamping method however is a bit sketchy. You really need to vacuum bag the thing to get good even adhesion. When glassing in repairs, you really want to take the paint off and epoxy to the glass substrate. Glassing schedule is also a bit iffy, you added big piece of glass to the bottom (which is probably not necessary as you didn't make any real repairs there) and made a sharp transition line which can be a stress point. Much better to make a W shaped cut so there is no stress point. When adding multiple layers, rule of thumb is 1" of overlap per layer, so layers don't end on the same seam. Rails on the other hand look like they only got 2 or 3 layers which might be a bit on the thin side (though it depends on the weight of cloth you used. It does look like the board is PVC sandwich construction so just putting a few layers of glass will not produce the original strength. You always want to make the repair as close as possible to the original layup, in this case, inner glass skin, PVC foam and outer glass, all scarfed progressively to the deck and bottom. Not to say what you did won't hold... but it's certainly more fragile then the original Graphics turned out cool, it does look very fresh :) What did you use for anti skid dust?

[@goldney]

Thanks for your feedback and tips! The anti-skid I used was EverTex medium grit. See description here: www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html

[@kmw728]

Great. I have the same in my living room 🤙🏽

[@ignacioelordi261]

Está claro que eres un gran profesional y un artista.Pero también es una gran idea.. Y seguro que mas barata.

[@ofenzuzq72]

Great project. Well documented

[@goldney]

Thank you! The only thing missing was there was a LOT of sanding involved.

[@ofenzuzq72]

@@goldney that feels like the biggest pain when buildling boards to me either 😤

[@daveoriordan1537]

Credit where credit is due. Great job, the board looks very modern afterwards. I'd guess it sails a bit better too with less swing weight from the nose.

[@dr.franciscotorresmarquezc7352]

Amazing work. Congrats thats was wicked 👍👏👏👏

[@pooroldman]

Your video is a huge boost for me to make the board. There are three types of Evertech non-slip powder depending on the size. Which one did you use? And did you paint the resin first before spraying the powder?

[@ksgamers3356]

Great video! I am looking for a DIY tutorial on how to turn a single fin wave board into a thruster or a quad. Any plans on making something like that?

[@goldney]

Thanks! No plans on doing that. Once you have figured out how you want it, it should be just a fin box install project. Probably best if it's your first attempt to copy the fin configuration and measurements from a production board that you like. There are quite a few surf board videos you could look at eg: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZWcgIt4mpqlbtUsi=Hz1tj-oSx5ZDXAkh Or kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIGTYWyLgLOKqJIsi=seQNuO3W2YdUa1BY

[@emretoprak2675]

Hello veryy good really 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 but ı want understand rıght , What are the materials you use step by step?

[@goldney]

Gorilla Glue Original for gluing the nose back together Epoxy with filler (fumed silica or fairing compound) to fill holes etc Epoxy and 4oz fiberglass on the nose Epoxy for sealer coat on nose Acrylic enamel primer, spray paint and clear coat Epoxy (UV stable) and Non-skid powder for non skid deck It would probably be more durable with tinted epoxy or a 2-part epoxy paint, but the above works ok.

[@armaniman1000]

Man If you want to do another one: I have an AHD Exocet 267, 86 liters waiting in Berlin ^^

[@JTechWP]

Great job looks amazing

[@blakoemail]

Excellent job. The decals you used are vinyl;

[@goldney]

Yes vinyl designed for a car. The one on the underside isn't totally smooth with the board, but could be made flat by a few more coats of clear, sanding between coats. Being at the front does not effect performance, so seems to be fine.

[@6977202865]

Awesome job!!!

[@westwindsailer]

I have an old kinetic and seatrend I may be doing this to ,but I will be widening them as well. Cut down the middle ,...add a foil box to one, they are otherwise junkers, so yeah ,we will see.

[@goldney]

That's a good idea to widen the board! Not seen that done before, but shouldn't be too difficult. I have a video on making a foil box and on installing one that might be helpful. Although I would probably buy a foil box if I did it again! See kzbin.info/www/bejne/baiqcqmiZdN1bK8 and kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5TJp4GXqsSqhqc

[@windaddict]

Just wow!! Great job!!

[@andrewmosqueda]

Im thinking of cutting the nose of my old mistral board. But many people are telling me it will just make the board heavier, is it true?

[@goldney]

@@andrewmosqueda When I did it, the weight was about the same afterwards. I had the same thought initially, but then realized if it does turn out to be a few grams heavier, you won't notice that very small difference on the water. Also I was doing it as a fun project to get a damaged board back on the water rather than it going to the trash. So if that's what you want to do, go for it:)

[@DadiszFekete]

So is there any rule on how much material is allowed to be cut? I guess the more is cut the lighter the board will be but why not to make a 240 cm lengthy board instead of 267? I'm having essentially the same board ( 310cm F2) and want to make it a lot easier to carry it around and ride.

[@goldney]

Sounds like a plan...good luck with your build!

[@Kuper133]

Great job! It's a pity there is no description of how and what he did. and it seems to me that it turned out unsuccessfully that the letters were covered with a rug. And so everything is fine. I couldn't have done it anyway.😀Please tell me I have a crumpled nose of the board. I want to drill holes and blow out with foam. then glue with fiberglass and paint. carbon fiber board. Will this be done correctly?

[@goldney]

Thanks for the comments. Good luck with repairing your board. There is a good website with suggestions for different repair techniques including damaged noses that may be useful if you have not seen it before: boardlady.com/

[@logohigh1]

if it stops it going to landfill ... I dont think the design be really altered , only really cosmetically

[@geeeteee1]

👍 good job … however the only issue with this ‘modification’ is it doesn’t improve the board in any way other than visual- making it looking sort of modern board = a bit of pointless waste of effort and material for me …

[@goldney]

Thanks for your feedback. Agreed, the "nose job" is just cosmetic. What you don't see on the video was that the finish of the board was in really bad shape...deep chips and bubbles that were down to the glass, so the board was no longer water tight or sailable. Most of the work was removing loose epoxy, filling holes and a lot of sanding so it could be sailed again.

[@jessiebrader2926]

@@goldney Did you weigh the original compared to the modified?

[@goldney]

​@@jessiebrader2926 It went from 7.6 to 7.7kg including an additional footstrap so very close. I sanded the original finish of the board quite a lot which would offset the added paint a bit. I would guess that the weight of the removed nose material was about the same as weight of added material to rebuild the nose.

[@Vald1603]

@@goldney Короткий нос и уменьшение водоизмещения, по моему ухудшили характеристики для глиссирующего новичка. Тупой нос нужен только для прыжков и различных SPEED LOOP, Flaka, Grubby, Spock... Но для прыжков и 90 литров, 7,7 кг тяжеловато. Прыжковые доски ребята по 6 кг обычно приобретают. Так что переделка классической доски только для понтов, перед новичками. Еще можно сказать с важным видом - CUSTOM... :)

[@eamonncoady9823]

That job will make a big difference in rotations and also in maxed out conditions.

[@FlopMatters]

Shouldn't that white car be parked further away from where you are spray painting red 😬. ☺️ Great job

[@christinemurray1444]

Lost around 2~3L of volume I reckon, although it was volume in the tip.

[@raja_soundsystem]

Inspired by this I am doing the same thing for an old board! @goldney why do you apply filler (or something similar, at about 2.42 in the video) before you apply glass fiber on it? Because then it seems you don't sand down the filler before the glass fiber? Why not apply glass fiber directly on the foam and then filler on top if needed? Thank you for a great video!

[@goldney]

I did sand the filler...just not shown in the video. It was difficult to sand the rail shape as it was soft foam and the original hard fiberglass. So I got it as close as I could, then added the filler to create the final shape. I'm sure it would be possible to do how you suggest...may need no filler at all? Good luck with your project...would be great to see how it turns out if you can reply with a link.

[@raja_soundsystem]

@@goldney Thank you for your kind answer! I am undecided yet if I should do it filler like you or glass straight on the foam. It is the next step in the project. Did get the shape quite nice without filler. The construction of the board is interesting. Glassfiber, then a thin layer of really hard dense foam and the core is like polysterene. I've taken pictures along the way, will send you a link when ready for sure!

[@raja_soundsystem]

​@@goldneythe board is now ready. it would have been better to do it your way, first filler and then the glass fiber, now it became a little bumpy. is there any way I could send you a link to the pictures privately. I just have them on my google drive.

[@goldney]

@@raja_soundsystem You can share them with [e-mail]

[@mtb_aleksey]

What is the putty called? I found a old board and I’m wanting to fix it.

[@goldney]

It's a fairing compound. Mix with epoxy. It will leave small holes that need a finish coat of epoxy. Or just use Epoxy with glass micro balloons and or fumed silica (eg cabosil). See US Composites: www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html

[@la8pw]

Great work. Did u do this purely for esthetic reasons or did this change the character of the board? Did u move the footstraps and if so, how did u know how much to move them? Thanks.

[@goldney]

Good question. The initial reason to do anything with this board was that it was not watertight...lots of cracks and missing chunks of the finish. Cutting the nose was more of an afterthought...I've seen it done before and wanted to try it...removing a wedge to make the nose thinner worked very well. I don't think it changed the characteristics, and I kept the footstraps where they were.

[@la8pw]

@@goldney Cool. Well done.

[@michaelvine7698]

Great idea, can you tell me why you split the nose after cutting it down? what was the goal there. Any idea what you could do to the tale to update the design. I have a old Naish 8 6" I would like to re do also Cheers

[@goldney]

I actually cut a v notch out of the nose, so I could add some curve to the underside and make the front narrower. Otherwise it would be a very thick nose and be quite flat. The black strap had a weight attached to pull just the bottom of the board up to the deck before taping it and letting the glue dry. Good luck with your board!

[@michaelvine7698]

@@goldney thank you 😊

[@robmain9921]

I'm planning to do something very similar to my Dad's old 2001 Mistral Naish Freeride 8'6"! 20cm shorter, nice rounded nose job and then silver, orange and red paint like the 2019 Naish Hover Crossover....

[@lardov1]

Hi James, are you using acryliuc dust for non-slip? DId you have a resin coat first and then dust?

[@JeepdudeFL]

For an epoxy board, I would use salt.

[@goldney]

I used EverTex non-skid after rolling on a thin layer of epoxy. EverTex is a light weight polymer and works well. I used their medium grade. The fine grade is ok if wairing booties, but I found to be not quite grippy enough in bare feet. Just remember to use a UV stable epoxy so it doesn't yellow, and a small foam roller so lint doesn't come off the roller. Link to the EverTex: www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html#etex

[@B0mb4rd1n0]

Great work! I admire craftsmanship! A question though - why didn't you want to reshape the tail as well? It's been a totally different philosophy years ago, shaping it would benefit much more early planning, top speed and maneuverability significantly (more than the nose I suppose). Or am I wrong?

[@goldney]

Yes, good idea, probably could have benefited from some work.

[@robmain9921]

Hi there What type of reshape were you thinking - nice blunt shorted tail?

[@speedquestwindsurfing]

Looks fast!

[@finnlang6993]

hi, what materials you used for grip on the Board? :) Great JOB!

[@goldney]

I used EverTex non-skid after rolling on a thin layer of epoxy. EverTex is a light weight polymer and works well. I used their medium grade. The fine grade is ok if wairing booties, but I found to be not quite grippy enough in bare feet. Just remember to use a UV stable epoxy so it doesn't yellow, and a small foam roller so lint doesn't come off the roller. Link to the EverTex: www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html#etex

[@francescocostantino9619]

Great! What have you used for glueing and painting?

[@goldney]

Glue for the nose was Gorilla Glue. Epoxy was used for the fiberglass. For paint I used acrylic enamel automotive spray paint as well as the clear spray finish. I used similar for building this board kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJLMf2SEns6sg7M See paint toward the end.

[@EV-FUN]

Why not modify a single fin into a thruster fin? Would it work?

[@goldney]

Good idea...I've done a conversion to a deep Tuttle box for foiling. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5TJp4GXqsSqhqc

[@pochron1105]

What's the paste you use in 2:40?

[@goldney]

It's epoxy mixed with a fairing compound, a light weight powder which is a mixture of various fillers, I think includes micro balloons, cabosil and some fibers. I got it from the link below. It does leave pinholes so needs to have a hot coat or some other coat on top if wanting a smooth finish. www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html

[@pochron1105]

@@goldney Thanks!

[@generiquedefin2464]

Hello! I'll try to do the same to an old F2 axxis. What kind of glue do you use when you replace the nose to the foam (pardon my english) thx

[@goldney]

I used Original Gorilla Glue (polyurethane glue) for sticking the nose back together after removing a wedge of the EPS foam. See 1:15. For the edges of the nose at 2:40 I used epoxy mixed with a fairing compound, a light weight powder which is a mixture of various fillers, I think includes micro balloons, cabosil and some fibers. I got it from the link below. www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html Then fiberglass on top, followed by hotcoat and paint. Bonne chance!

[@generiquedefin2464]

@@goldney Merci!

[@generiquedefin2464]

One last question. What is the weight/m2 of the fiberglass? thank u

[@goldney]

​@@generiquedefin2464 I used 136 g/m² plain weave fiberglass cloth. (4oz per sq yd). It may have been S-glass which would be stronger. One layer over the whole area, then strips along the edge overlapping at the nose to make 3 layers at the nose.

[@generiquedefin2464]

@@goldney Ok. Need to buy some,i've only got 300 g/m2 left and some carbon even more heavy. Thank you

[@ericduch5087]

Very nice job. Did you end up using the old foot strap positions and if so how did you transfer them thru the deck pads

[@goldney]

Yes, I used the same foot strap inserts. I created a template using a piece of heavy paper over the deck, and used a pencil to push through where the screw holes were. With the new foot pads attached, I then used the template and a nail to push through the deck pad to the holes. See 6:41. I found it useful to use a piece of aluminum with holes in it as a guide to Dremel the holes in the deck pad so they are evenly spaced. See 6:45.

[@henq]

AHD was a Swiss company that made their boards by CAD cutting foam boards. They were really pioneers. Very nice conversion job, James! I think the mast track in those days was way more forward [ 00:46 ] than nowadays. So I'd put the mast as much aft as possible, and see how that sails. Have fun! PS: Is the location Tarifa?

[@goldney]

Thanks for the comments. Will try moving the mast foot to the back. Yes, Swiss made I think with kevlar and carbon, not sure if throughout? The location is Florida, Tampa Bay area!

[@Alfonso_111]

Good thought but the the older boards are narrower and have less volume in the tail so it will drop off the plane super quick with the mast track right back..

[@team3383]

@@Alfonso_111 My thoughts exactly. LOOKS like a new board but handles and performs like an old one ! I also have AHD boards which I still use. They were top of the line at the time. I would have simply restored the AHD one to like new. Seems a hell of a lot of work time and effort, but I suppose it "looks" nice.

[@marcodefelice3444]

Painting board ad car aame color!!!!!!!!!😃

[@mojorocketman]

Can a windsurf board be converted to a normal surfboard?

[@goldney]

People have done it, but I think just using the internal EPS core as a blank.

[@jessiebrader2926]

Of course, ditch the rig.

[@norbertst4103]

The car in the backgroung will also have become a touch of red. 😂

[@OKuusava]

And: why?

[@callingwind5071]

Amazing job. Great video really. Could you write which painting did you used in the all process?

[@goldney]

The spray paint was Rust-Oleum Acrylic Enamel. Its labeled automotive grade, available at Walmart. I used gloss red, white and clear. First used gray automotive primer (lightly sand between coats). I left the bottom sanded with 600 grit and kept the sides gloss. See a link to the paint: www.walmart.com/ip/Clear-Rust-Oleum-Automotive-Gloss-Acrylic-Enamel-2X-Spray-Paint-271913-12-oz/44685932

[@thomasplattner8046]

You could made a thruster set up.

[@sorenwolff4954]

You did not even show the most important part. Cutting and changing the nose profile.

[@goldney]

At 0:26 shows cutting the nose and at 0:52 shows adding curve to the nose. It goes by fast. As you mention, I think the key part is removing a wedge of foam from the nose so you can add more curve and make the nose thinner.

[@charlespointin]

Ha ha ! Super ! Tu t’es bien gavé ! ça fait du bien ça ! T’as bien mérité tes croquettes !😂

[@jessiebrader2926]

And the point is??? Why bother

[@quimt.6440]

No hay derecho hacerle eso a la proa.

[@Floatnride]

Well done what a wonderful project. Great job. Bet your super proud.

[@gianclaudiocitarda2608]

Bravissimo

[@crapisnice]

how lovely, the cycle of toxic petrochemicals and shreded nanoplastics continues...

[@Floatnride]

Did you notice any difference in the feel on the water between old and new?

[@goldney]

I am wondering the same thing! Unfortunately I never sailed the old board, as it was not water tight to try it. I'm hoping to have the friend who gave me the board try it and let me know!

[@DadiszFekete]

so do you have any results yet?@@goldney

[@goldney]

@@DadiszFekete No real noticable difference on the water.

[@DadiszFekete]

@@goldney cool. I have an old F2 slalom board, same shape,very long and heavy - 320 - and wanna modify it. Do you think its possible to cut off both ends and if so whats the limit? Also wanted to ask whether one can also add volume to its width? So thr result would be a much shorter and wider board :).

[@goldney]

@@DadiszFekete That sounds like an ambitious project! My guess is that while it might be possible, it's going to be very difficult to make a decent board with all those changes....although you would learn a lot. Maybe consider buying a smaller used board that is closer to your idea that needs less modification?

[@renzondaziano4880]

Hi! How did you make the grip?

[@goldney]

Rolling on a thin layer of epoxy then sprinkling it with EverTex Non-skid additive. I used medium grit. See www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html