Retrobrighting: The Easy Way to Bring Back Yellowed Plastics!

[@miked4377]

hey simon ..great job on the retrobright...tons of videeos tons of different ways.....add nauseam .....good jod!

[@RetroComputingReboot]

Thanks Mike. My way probably isn't the best way, but wanted to share it as it has worked consistently for me. The risks are always there with retrobrighting, but so are the rewards (IMHO if course 😊) It's interesting how some say you shouldn't do it, it destroys the plastic, and you're stupid for doing it and so on. All of which may be true 😁. But it hasn't happened to me so far. Life's more fun with a bit of risk 😁

[@miked4377]

@RetroComputingReboot I totally agree simon!if I had a computer that I really liked and was in good shape all around except the horrid color yellow ..I would definitely do it! i stay away from yellow or cracked stuff to begin with because I am not good at repairing...so I tend to have to save alot of cash and by it in good nik!!

[@RetroComputingReboot]

@@miked4377 I wouldn't say I'm good at repairing either 😂. But I enjoy having a go and sharing my experiences 😊

[@miked4377]

@RetroComputingReboot you do a good job simon!

[@JohnSmith-bh4zx]

Interesting video, the case's came out really good just a pity about the label. I'm going to try liquid peroxide (not cream) because I'm worried about streaks when using cream. Although you show it is possible to produce good results with cream. Have you heard of using vapours instead of full immersion, just raise the part above the peroxide level. The thought process behind this is because it's not immersed it will be safer? I see what you mentioned to me about the function keys being over done on your ST. I think part of the key to success in retrobrighting is knowing when to stop, which is easier said than done. Changing the subject, I see you got a 3D printed case for your Smart card. How much did it cost from PCB way and is there a minimum number you have to order?

[@RetroComputingReboot]

I could have kicked myself with the label 😢 I do have a bottle of liquid peroxide. I was planning to give it a try at some point with yellowed keys. My thinking here is that I can just chuck it in a clear takeaway style tub and just give it the occasional shake. I've done keys with the cream with good results (apart from the ST function keys 😂), but it's fiddly getting them all nicely laid out and orientated in a bag. It does work, but it's time consuming. The downside I see for liquid is the amount you need for anything quite large, and then stopping it from floating around 😂 I was initially worried about streaking but it hasn't happened to me (yet?). I think the key here is to regularly massage the bag just to keep the cream from having 'hot spots'. I wish I'd recorded the Megafile retrobright. It looks as close to new as you could ever hope for (and it looked shocking beforehand). There wasn't a hint of a streak. My disasters have always occurred when I've taken my eye off the ball. I have heard of people using vapours but not seen any vids. I'm guessing it does sound safer for the plastic. It has to give an even covering. Maybe the setup is a bit more complicated. I'm guessing an immersive heater is needed? Plus a sealed container surely? There's so many techniques and people can get very precious about how they do it 😂. So many people claim sunlight is best. And it maybe, if you live somewhere with great weather for most of the year. Living in the UK that just isn't practical in any sensible way I would always say try what works for you. I dare say nothing is risk free, and it's really sad if it goes wrong. You're absolutely right about knowing when to stop as it's not always easy to see how it's progressing. Checking under a strong white light is essential. The danger area can be having several different plastics all chucked in together, with varying degrees of yellowing. It's easy to miss that tapping point where it's starting to bleach out. Patience with retrobrighting is a virtue. A 50W lamp like I use takes a long time to retrobright, but likewise it takes longer before it starts going wrong. I'd love to see how you get on. Drop me an email if you like with your method and some before and afters

[@robertjendrisak4246]

Will commend for guys who want follow ya here, nothing against u. 1- never use isoprophyle alcohol with atari plastic, it is too risky. They used more recipes and some of them react very bad with it. (saw totaly destroyed 124 monitor guy cleaned with isoprophyle alcohol) 2- crema peroxide way is very prone to marble structure so i do not recommend but whatever. It ended quite well for you...gratz :) 3- dont touch stickers in future please. They usualy dont need to be removed.

[@RetroComputingReboot]

Thanks for the comment, Robert. Like you, I just share my experiences and I appreciate you adding your knowledge. For me I've had issues with stickers bleaching. Most notably was on the underside of an Atari mouse of all things, where it just obliterated it. It was barely readable. I get the marbling concerns with the cream. I've always been super paranoid about it which is why I'm regularly moving the bleach round in the bag. It's worked for me so far, even on larger items. Thanks for the IPA tip too. I will definitely be a bit more careful then with that stuff. Warm soapy water in future then 😊