$50 RGBS Scart to Component Convertor - Tested on 4 CRTs & a Plasma TV

[@linuxbot3000]

Hello, builder of the converter here :) everyone feel free to ask questions if you'd like The new version in the fancy box has some improvement with dealing with noisy power supplies, it's not the current rating that's the issue, it's noisy or ripply output voltage, or a bit too low. Name brand bricks that came with a phone I've found are usually decent, but there are lots of more dodgy fakes out there. I would like to include a known good one in future but international standards make it a bit tricky. Cheers :)

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks Jam. I don't really know much about Power Supply Units so it's helpful for people to clear those things up with the comments. At least my ignorance proves you don't need to be electrician to repair Retro Tech. 🤣

[@ZiggyTheHamster]

Is the THS7374 LPF turned on or off?

[@crteaser9726]

Are there any plans to restock this I can only find the ones with the VGA plug not scart

[@crteaser9726]

I hope they get restocked I'm probably going to buy a couple

[@JanusDuo]

I'm following your eBay page...hoping for a restock soon.

[@brandonpierce9868]

I love that you cover consumer CRTs. Some of us either can't afford a PVM or we prefer larger CRT sets

[@brunor.1127]

I'm more about the A s t h e t i c i really like how consumer sets look

[@jakemarshall7619]

I have a PVM 14l4 and I was so lucky to get it! I found it for sale for £120 (About 160 US dollars) in a second-hand computer store just a few hundred metres away from where I live! If I hadn't have found that PVM, I would've happily stuck with a consumer CRT! There are some benefits consumer CRTs have over PVMs. They can be operated with a remote control, they're much cheaper and much easier to find, they don't use as much power as the same size PVMs do, they're easier to maintain as there's a lot less stuff inside them and they don't generally look ugly like PVMs do. Some consumer CRTs have a nice classic look to them. But still I love my PVM😃

[@mistersurrealist]

PVMs are so f***ing UGLY and they're too small. Grab a 32'' flat screen Sony Wega with decent geometry and you will never want anything else. They're also great to look at.

[@mackenziebullied4900]

@@mistersurrealist Jesus tho the geometry on my trinitron xbr is so bad, planning my first ever yoke adjustment level bad

[@displaytalk]

Plasma tvs are absolutely amazing, glad you featured one. Still to this day there is nothing to compete with a used plasma in price to performance for 1080p SDR

[@martin-xi6oh]

.--------.

[@displaytalk]

@@martin-xi6oh still are 2 years later. KRP-500Ms go for $100 or less sometimes. Astronomical value

[@camerontinker1948]

I'm glad to see you made a video about this! I had been seeing this noise on my larger Trinitron with the original transcoder and now have a plan to reduce or eliminate this completely. Thanks for the video!

[@jakemarshall7619]

I use a Samsung DVD recorder (Which I bought for £25 about 30 US dollars) which has an RGB SCART input on it and a component output and it does a very good job at converting RGB to component and it doesn't add any extra noise or any noticeable input lag to the picture. It's also very good at cleaning up composite signals so it actually makes composite look better than it going directly into the monitor. I have a Sony PVM 14l4, but if I use RGB on it, I can't adjust the colour or aperture to my liking because those are fixed settings. I can adjust those settings on component though. I have the aperture set to maximum because it looks a lot sharper and there is no extra noise added by doing so. When the aperture is on its default setting which is minimum, it looks a lot more blurry. So I don't use RGB on my PVM 14l4. I only use RGB on my consumer CRT TVs which don't have component. I personally think component is better than RGB. Thanks for the video! You deserve way more subs😃

[@Septer_Sever]

I have the exact same Toshiba consumer CRT. I got it for free on Craigslist, bought a used CSY-2100G transcoder on Ebay and have loved the picture quality ever since.

[@bamer94]

I think what you are talking about is an RGBs SCART to YPbPr transcoder, actually no scaling is performed by the device. you should check out Mike Chi's new budget transcoder that is on the works. Neat video btw I really like how you showcase non sony/pvm CRTs, Keep it up man.

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks. Yeah, It's not scaling anything. I just kept calling it that incorrectly for some reason. It's pretty much a straight transcoder or I guess converter is fine. I will be glad to check it out. Is there a link to any info on that project

[@ZiggyTheHamster]

I would love to see a YPbPr to RGBS/RGsB adapter at some point too. Some of us have more recent consoles but cannot input component to our PVMs and have to resort to other methods to make it work :)

[@davidc7763]

The lag test doesn’t show different values on the TVs when you pause if there is lag. You need to record high frame rate footage and compare the numbers on screen. When you pause it will still show the same video, might just take longer to get to that frame if it does have lag

[@sasheendowlath5245]

Just bought this and had it for the week. Can confirm this is an excellent product, now with a nice metal housing

[@RetroGameRarities]

Solid review! Thanks for the clear and concise testing. Also JVC D-series is all I rock too. 👍

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thank you

[@strohdog1]

I bought this because of this video. It works great. Running it with sega genesis and snes on an Apex crt. All games look so much better, my wife can even see the difference. Thank you for the info.

[@hayden7525]

I have a plasma tv and it still looks fantastic when using component cables because it was made in tye early days of hdmi so people still used component cables for the norm

[@eduardolobos7380]

On my plasma the hdmi and component look equally sharp and fantastic on 720p connecting xbox 360.

[@RazorEdgeBullie]

This channel is a godsend. By far the best channel on KZbin.

[@RetroTechUSA]

Thanks

[@fabiojuniooliveira6862]

May you test a PS2 console with componente cable and then with a SCART/converter? I notice lag on my led tv with the converter

[@ski9k]

I have a different SCART to Component adapter that looks similar and also has a 5v input. However the adapter works fine without using the 5v input at all. Would this device also work without power?

[@daschewie]

This converter is not a scaler, and depends on the HD tv to do it. Unfortunately most HD TVs treat 240p as 480i signal causing some strange artifacts and flickering sprites. Devices like the Framemeister and OSSC handle 240p correctly, and usually scales faster than the built in scaler in HD tvs. Please review the Retrotink2x, it is a cheap scaler that supports 240p.

[@displaytalk]

Correct. This is a transcoder. All it does is change color spaces and sync

[@Odolwa2]

Is there a pure analog converter without the filtering? I've been looking at a few and they all seem to have post processing on them, a big no-no for me. I just want the 1:1 electrical conversion. apparently the retrovision cables have filtering, the retrotink has filtering, some have "fake scan lines" which isn't what I want, even when disabled it still presents some kind of input lag (hinting that it's going through some kind of post processing). then there's one that literally makes the pixels into actual "square pixels" (again, a type of filtering, a big no-no), apparent on the hills on the background of Mario 1, they should instead be the literal scans instead of looking like LCD pixels. i don't know if that's a line doubler (didn't know such things were possible on CRT), but it's really really bad... i want my component to look exactly how it would on SCART RGB, albiet a "miniscule" amount of quality loss since it's not a direct RGB connection... just no "messing with the picture".

[@Jabors-z7e]

There is no such thing as "outputting the wrong amps" with these types of power supplies. The amp number is simply the maximum current output the supply is rated for. The problem you're having is that one supply is noiser than the other. I'd avoid using phone chargers to power any device processing analog video.

[@RetroTechUSA]

The only difference in the supplies is the AMP ratings

[@Jabors-z7e]

@@RetroTechUSA There's more to power supplies than supplied volts and amp ratings, such as ripple and noise profiles measured at different currents, which is what defines a good power supply vs a bad one. Monitor the 5V rails from both supplies with an oscilloscope while loaded and you'll see what I'm talking about.

[@meatsafemurderer7743]

@@RetroTechUSA Javier is 100% right. Current is pulled, not pushed. The amp rating is a measurement of the PSU's tolerance to current being pulled through it. In contrast to voltage, which really needs to match, as long as the current rating is equal to or greater it's not a problem. The problem simply comes down to wallwarts often having pretty noisy outputs.

[@RetroTechUSA]

@Javier Andre's Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a jerk on my response. I just meant that Amps was the only listed difference on the PSU's labels. I'm self taught when it comes to electronics so I'm still a little green with some aspects of electronics. Thanks for the explanation.

[@Jabors-z7e]

@@RetroTechUSA No problem! We're all learning here. Appreciate the work you do.

[@BushidoBrownSama]

I like that the prototype use Micro B instead of C

[@ZiggyTheHamster]

BTW I think you're doing the lag test wrong. You're supposed to take a photo of both screens (or pause the video) and compare the numbers both screens show. If you pause the test, all screens will show no lag since it won't update the screen anymore. That said, I paused the video and saw that they both show the same numbers, which is a good sign that the lag is minimal. Since it looks like he's using high quality TI parts, I'd expect this, and that's good :D

[@specialformula14]

Links are dead

[@Adam-rt7lp]

@Retro Tech how does this compare with MikeChi Retrotink RGB2COMP?

[@buckkaczynski1027]

question, does this to component to scart as well?

[@quasimodo1427]

Will this convertor work with RGB-PI OS and there scart cable?

[@juansalas2882]

Hi, does your N64 have the RGB mod to support YPbPr or do you just use composite video with the Sony PVM

[@overkill7990]

That Toshiba looks killer

[@vaciope4212]

Does it cause ghosting?

[@davidegalliussi1979]

hello I suggest you to adjust the sharpness to 33 when you use component on lcd; that's how I use the PS2 😉

[@badreality2]

How does this compare to HD Retrovision's component cables? Their component cables do the same thing; RGBs to YPbPr. Will you feature both, on the same monitor?

[@badreality2]

Their cables do not require an external power supply. That might be a deal breaker for people without a spare USB outlet.

[@RetroTechUSA]

I've got a couple sets of their cables. Maybe can do that video too. Both are good options.

[@vadergamer453]

Will this thing work with the sega dreamcast??

[@fabiojcarvalho]

And on LCD/Led tvs? Are there lags?

[@gordyowl9455]

I've spent over $80 bucks on Retrotink's RGB2COMP, I guess his product it's gonna be more effective and less defective, if that might happen then I can contact him and get support

[@madwolfq8]

plasma TVs...i love em

[@6vibe150]

Yoooo LinuxBot3000!!

[@Charlie-Cat.]

$50. Must be one heck of a product Steve. 8^)

[@RetroTechUSA]

It's pretty darn good. :)

[@tkb301]

Does this input scart and output component?

[@RetroTechUSA]

Yes

[@tkb301]

@@RetroTechUSA oops!! I'm an idiot. I meant the other way around. Input component and output scart

[@jordan177606]

We already have a component to rgb, its called the garo by beharbros, but the new one doesnt have scart, you need a DB-15 (VGA) to scart cable.

[@RetroTechUSA]

​@@jordan177606 That's right. i actually have one of those too. It's a good device.

[@RetroTechUSA]

@@tkb301 No, but as @jordan177606 mentioned, the Garo does that. I do have one of those and can make a video on it sometime.

[@SLRModShop]

"There's one on the main channel" ?! Wait, there is a secondary channel ?

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

The noise is a ground loop. Easy test for this is to run it from a portable battery brick. They're a real b**** to eliminate.

[@davidegalliussi1979]

Component to lcd? --> try sharpness 33 😉