"Revealed: Why Your Brand-New Tankless Water Heater Could Be a Disaster!"

[@jr3628]

interested in the filter system and the rest of the troubleshooting as i have a suspected bio-slime/scale buildup problem with my whole home unit that i too believe is caused by the flow sensor (in my case) not spinning fast enough to register the proper flow. the hall effect sensor in your unit seems like it was registering too much flow even when you had none which let the heater continue to cook with nothing to keep it cool. solid video keep up the good work.

[@smallhomeoffgridprepping1511]

I already installed the filter system and electronic descaler , I made videos on the install for both, but they still have to be edited, I'm putting the water heater back in today and will see how it works. That video should be out by this weekend. After installing the new water filters and descaler I realized how bad my water issue is here with calcium carbonate, we live in northern Florida, just Google the fresh water springs here and you can see how gorgeous the springs are here. Our property sits on top of one of the many spring water veins in this area and I actually paid my well company an extra 1700.00 when we installed the well to dig deep enough to go into that vein, (120') so the water that comes into my house is the same water you get if you buy Zephyrhills spring water, that's the same exact water that comes into my house so I would have never guessed that I could have an issue with my water, but all spring water in Florida is loaded with calcium carbonate, still not sure if that is the water heater problem or not, but when I release the descaler video I'll show how amazing this thing is and how fast it's cleaning out everything in my house, I am still focused on the flow sensor, I'm about to go cut it open to see the inside and should be releasing a short on what I find, thank you for watching and the great compliment you wrote.

[@bblackmon19]

In the house where this heater is installed, COLD and HOT water are bleeding into each other somewhere causing the Heater to detect flow. Perhaps because someone removed a shower valve cartridge during a bathroom remodel to sweat pipes etc. This will cause an infinite loop between COLD and HOT.

[@kevinwhite9919]

scale won't affect that flow sensor aside from potentially stopping the turbine from turning, and yours still turns, so the sensor is good as long as it's positioned properly and getting a reasonably stable/clean working DC voltage (usually it can work over a wide range of working DC voltages, but whatever voltage it's getting should be reasonably clean and stable). it might be easiest to test the flow sensor itself with a DC power supply and an oscilloscope, but you can make a readout circuit pretty easily. i would bet that if your issue IS actually related to the flow sensor, it's some issue with the heater's readout circuit - like maybe the readout circuit is passing through 60Hz over the DC sensor supply voltage. if 60Hz gets fed through to the sense output lead, then the readout circuit would be reading flow (60Hz pulse wave) when there isn't any water flow. that might also be caused by a power wiring problem to the heater itself, or a loose/floating ground line problem. your heaters have been lasting ~6months... but that could just be because they're pretty robust, and it takes that long to burn them out with an intermittent flow sensor miss-read that keeps them heating for a few minutes past water cutoff, every few times they run. 240V power from an off-grid system? sounds like there could be some unexpected noise on the neutral or ground, or some related issue. if it's not water flow, then the next check would be whether it's getting too high a power-line voltage.