Build A Game controller with Rhino 8!

A full build of a game controller in Rhino 8.
we talk about build strategy, subd, shrinkwrap, push pull, inset, and all sorts of tips and tricks.

[@mohameddawood1720]

Oh my God!!! I was searching the whole last week for how to make a Ps controller , and you came just in time ❤

[@Rhinoceros3d]

hope it helps! post your results in our gallery, I'd love to see them!

[@mohameddawood1720]

@@Rhinoceros3d although i did not understand why the use of shrinkwrap , why not just copy the nurbs objects , boolean everything together then use Quadremesher to turn it into a mesh that is ready for 3d printing and also has far better topology than the mesh generated with Shrinkwrap ,

[@Rhinoceros3d]

@@mohameddawood1720 you missed the part about leaving the parts un booleaned, or untrimmed and overlapping so you could iterate easily if design changes needed to be made. Shrinkwrapping overlapping parts saves a ton of time undoing trims and booleans if adjustments need to be made once you get your first print. It's specifically useful if your end goal is 3d printing. quadremesher is super useful if you need to organize the topology, say to convert to a subd, or transfer to a digital sculpting program like zbrush, but for prints, a regular unorganized triangle mesh is actually preferable in my experience.

[@mohameddawood1720]

@@Rhinoceros3d i am not sure i got this right , but my point is : i have a NURBS model consists of multiple parts and i want to 3d print it , and i need a workflow so i can make design changes easily and in undestructive way , so basically i will make a backup copy of the original non booleaned NURBS model where everything is overlapping and not joined ,and hide it , then just boolean everything together to the other copy then quadremesh it so it can be 3d printed as a mesh, and if there were design changes i would get back to the original backup and do the modifications then re do the same steps of quadremeshing , i am 100% sure i am missing something here , but cant seem to get me head around what is special about shrinkwrap compared to the workflow i explained above , in both workflows you are turning a NURBS model to a mesh to 3d print , and in both methods you can go back to the original model to make design changes , but the mesh generated by quadremesher is better than the mesh generated with shrinkwrap

[@Rhinoceros3d]

@@mohameddawood1720 shrinkwrap avoids you having to make the 2nd copy that you trim and boolean together. Simply shrinkwrap the first untrimmed un booleaned model to get your shrinkwrap mesh. if you have to iterate, you simply pick up where you left off on the first model. but if your workflow works for you, by all means keep at it! I only show you the tools, you decide how best to use them for your own workflows-

[@hosseinpeyvandi3992]

AWESOME as always. dear kyle ,still waiting for that productive video like a toy from designing to mold design, showing Rhino powerfull tools regarding to its competitors like draft analysis , ribbon offset and etc, as you told you will think about it and it would be in multiple parts. please MC neel let kyle roll over the you tube with his skills. thanks

[@Rhinoceros3d]

that would be tough to pull of in an hour- I'll have to do some thinking about how to put that together, maybe a series over a couple of sessions.

[@hosseinpeyvandi3992]

@@Rhinoceros3d sure it needs couple of sessions and it would be something different from all getting started with rhino series.hope you finally decide to do it .thanks

[@Spicyanvil]

holy mother of mercy thankyou for this vid

[@Rhinoceros3d]

Thanks for watching!

[@aaryan3411]

This stuff is very cool, but is it possible to model something and make it more ‘professional’ something suitable for a portfolio with all the tiny screws and stuff

[@Rhinoceros3d]

of course, but not in an hour and 20 min.. ;-)

[@aaryan3411]

@@Rhinoceros3d is a tutorial possible 😅? I’m looking for something more complex being done

[@kmjulkarnaieensajin4584]

​@@aaryan3411Yeah it will be great

[@skaa9217]

Spend your time learning Rhino surfacing and skip the mushy pully pokey sub-D stuff. Start with actual dimensions of your controller.

[@Rhinoceros3d]

@@skaa9217 you do you- I just show tools and process, what you do with them is all up to you.

[@manav3113]

Could you please make more videos on advanced surfacing for industrial design ? Products like headphones, drill machines,etc.

[@Rhinoceros3d]

lots of this stuff already in the bank on our channel, anything specific you are looking for?

[@manav3113]

@Rhinoceros3d i am mainly looking for headphones, vr devices, gaming mice , etc consumer electronics with complex surfacing with nurbs approach

[@Rhinoceros3d]

@@manav3113 hit me with a sketch or two of what you are thinking here: discourse.mcneel.com/t/video-suggestions-hit-me/181102

[@maccan1]

23:30 Is there a issue I have that is bigger and tortured in box mode? Shouldn't we create more edges?

[@Rhinoceros3d]

depends on the model, typically speaking a well sorted box mode will result in a well sorted smooth mode. there are however, as with all guidelines, instances where this guideline can be ignored, like if you are doing a very low face count model with lots of curvature. In that case the box mode can get pretty wild. it all comes down to your result.. if you get what you wanted, then you are winning. I winge on about box mode because making an unintentionally tortured box mode can make smooth mode difficult to edit later, and introduce weird inflections that you won't be able to sort in smooth mode. The solution is very often simply untying the knots you made in box mode, and adding a few edges as needed to get more detail.

[@maccan1]

Thank you for your time. Actually, When you have reached the final and desired shape with this number of faces and due to the high curvature of your model, why would you want to waste time and do extra work. And of course, there are no very special and complex curves, indentations and protrusions in your model that require additional edges. But whenever I did this, everyone said it was wrong! And finally, there is no problem with rendering?

[@Rhinoceros3d]

@@maccan1 if it works for you, it works period. Rules are made to be broken as long as you understand what the rules are and why and when to break them. sounds like you have a good system that works for you so carry on and make great stuff!

[@mohameddawood1720]

Do you have like a rule or a preset where you decide are you going to model with subd or nurbs , I always struggle with this , when i wanna start modeling i am thinking should i go NURBS or subd , Can you share your decision process on how do you approach the model MENTALLY before even touching the mouse , Because the problem with most tutorials on YT that they teach you the technical stuff , but rarely anyone explains his thought process on how to approach each model , it's something closer to Chess or RTS games , its not effective to make your decision on the fly , you gotta have a workflow planned in mind and each surface you create should be relatively calculated move , Since you are a Hardcore gamer you might feel me , Some tutors just open a reference image and start drawing and doodling each surface and its going to connect with other surfaces before modeling , This is exactly my problem , i know most of the tools and techniques but whenever i wanna start modeling a relatively complex object , i get lost on how should i start , Now i know you model these objects without preparing them to show us the mistakes and problems each one of us might encounter and teaching us how to fix them on the fly

[@Rhinoceros3d]

It's kindof a feel I've developed over the years- Typically speaking, if the forms are very organic and have lots of blending surface changes, I'll lean towards subd. (more clay like in its creation) If the model could basically be made from sheets of paper (something I did a lot as a kid) then I'll tend towards nurbs. I also mix styles a lot and will 100% add subd parts to a nurbs model, or vice versa. I also often will model forms in subd with creases at the major transitions, then convert to Nurbs and add mechanical fillets for more "precise" looking subd models. The rule is, if you get the shapes you wanted, you are doing it right. :-)

[@clever588]

thanksss

[@Rhinoceros3d]

thanks for watching!

[@ALSAHAFI13]

I have an unsolicited suggestion for these training videos. What if you have someone else draw the sketch for you to model in Rhino? This could provide viewers with an experience closer to that of a junior designer, where they receive a sketch and must figure out the modeling process on the spot. It might offer a different perspective for learners.

[@yokk3070]

u should go for more embarassing researches haha very helpful 🙏🙏🙏

[@skaa9217]

Scale. Start with proper scale. If the plan is to 3D print it, start with a basic height and width. All future designers watching this video, insert that basic, one minute step at the start of your work, other wise you are wasting your modelling time.

[@Rhinoceros3d]

Yep- it’s a demo, scale is clearly important for real projects, but not these which focus on tools and processes.

[@dydmp]

Subdivision is bullshit, these are not precise and dirty (sloppy) forms of topology with degeneracy of curvature, which create problems in the production of design. Explore clean ways to model surface topology. Clean patches with professionalism create better results and success. You have to control the curvature and transitions of the shapes to be the best.

[@Rhinoceros3d]

Ok, thanks for watching.

[@aaryan3411]

Did you listen to him? He literally said the purpose of this is to demo features and 3D print the model.

[@dydmp]

@@aaryan3411 Try to make complex geometry with subdivisions, then create an offset. I have encountered many times that I wanted to make the wall of the case 2-3 mm and it did not create a wall offset. What kind of 3D printing are we talking about? It depends on your luck... I had to redo everything in the classic way in order to get the case for 3D printing.

[@dydmp]

@@Rhinoceros3d I like your content, you are a professional and I'm not a hater. But there are points that are not very good for design in real production, this is very important to note, because people lose money and time.

[@Rhinoceros3d]

@@dydmp send us any models that misbehave- we’d be happy to take a peek and suggest workflows, or if rhino is failing, we’d use it as an opportunity to improve our tools. [e-mail] is the best way to reach us with any issues that need sorting.