Riamondo Guitar Neck Ding repair... from beginning to end. Part 3

[@michael_caz_nyc]

Great job with this. If it were me . . . I'd sand the entire neck, and do Tru Oil = make her a "Smooth Satin" Finish.

[@bluesguy62]

Really impressive repair. You did not rush the job, but patiently worked through all the necessary steps. I like that 👍👍👍

[@buailebawns2162]

Thanks for this video as I have to do a similar repair caused by a crappy capo half a century ago.

[@LennonLuthierFinagler]

...but it is fun and interesting to work on guitars... unless there is a time pressure on you.

[@buailebawns2162]

@@LennonLuthierFinagler Yes it is fun work in on guitars & banjos, especially as I get older & find it harder to play & sing. As a former Co Down lad (Kircubbin), living in Australia since 1959, it is great that I can learn new skills from a luthier in a part of the world I love so well and the first luthier I have heard who doesn't speak with any kind of accent. Do you have any thoughts on compensated nuts, positive or negative? The major manufacturers, Martin, Gibson etc. don't provide compensation at the nut but I have heard many of their guitars, both accoustic & electric, play sweetely with the addition of a compensated shelf nut or the cheaper Hosco SOS (string offset spacer). I have added the Hosco SOS to two high end Martins & a 65 year old Maton HG100 with more than satisfactory results. Particularly the Maton which really opened up with nut compensation & is now a joy to play even with a capo well down the neck. Looking forward to a future video from you on compensated nuts & possibly another on setting up a 12 string guitar where the saddle compensation for the octave strings is always out because of the backward angle of saddle. As they say, 12 string players spend half their time tuning & the other half playing out of tune.

[@savedaz]

The plasters made me laugh one then two! New razor blades are sharp I know😁 Good job

[@LennonLuthierFinagler]

It didn't make me laugh... LOL

[@exjwborn-in2134]

Nice! 🎸

[@LennonLuthierFinagler]

Thanks!

[@harry9392]

Thank you very much

[@bldallas]

So I’ve got a similar dent in the back of a guitar neck, that I ended up smoothing out with a small rat tail file. This resulted in a rather shallow, oval shaped, rounded/smooth dent about 1/4” wide and 3/4” long along its center lines. Though it’s literally been this way for decades, last week, I decided to tape it off and drop fill it with Titebond thick CA Glue. I did everything as shown in this video, and once the third layer of glue had fully set, I sanded the fill smooth with 600 to 2500 paper. Then I removed the protective tape, from around the fill, and noticed the tape thickness had left the patch a tad bit proud of the neck surface around it. So, not wanting to mess up the neck finish, U decided to do the razor blade scraper trick. And, much to my shag run, when the blade edge contacted the superglue edge, the patch peeled right out, leaving me back at square one. Any suggestions? Should I spray an accelerant in the dent, before putting the first layer of glue down? I’m thinking it might increase the bond strength between the glue and the wood. Should I scuff up the dent? Though I hate to do that in case my second attempt also fails. Thoughts?

[@LennonLuthierFinagler]

Hmmm strange. Couple of things that it 'might' be.... I would not have used the 2500 sand paper.... I would have used 400 in the dent and left it, then I would probably suggest is using medium or thin glue and use two of three coats to get the correct height, making sure there are no bubbles... .... may I ask, did you have a brand new shape blade... I am sure you did but I must ask. Not sure about accelerants as I have never used them.. sorry.

[@bldallas]

@@LennonLuthierFinagler all good points. I did not scruff up the vent before drop filling with super glue. Now that I think about it, I probably should have cleaned it thoroughly with naptha, too. The was sharp, but not new. I assume the CA glue would be hard, to almost brittle, but this was a bit playable, when it came out; stuff but playable. I used Titebond thick, but if I try it again, I’ll likely get some plain ol superglue. Get some activator, too while I’m at it.

[@LennonLuthierFinagler]

@@bldallas I have never used Titebond Superglu but I was Titebond wood glue and it is amazing. I use EverBuild Superglue GP... but I have used cheap old £1/$1 store glu and it worked fine... try a drop on a old piece of shiny wood and then try scrapping it down. Not sure about activator - it may leave a wrinkle... but let me know if you use it and how you get on.

[@crystaldayvolt]

After you sand down the super glue, do you simply polish it out or do you put any kind of lacquer finish back on top to seal /fill it all in?

[@LennonLuthierFinagler]

If done carefully it won't need any filling in. There are a few ways.... if it is a non-gloss neck I would use very fine sandpaper up to 7,000 and that would give you a nice non-gloss finish. If gloss is required you can use the normal clear hard gloss spray can to get the guitar back to gloss but it would need to be finely polished afterwards. In some instances I have used Crimson Guitars High Build guitar finishing oil... but that requires a lot of drying and polishing etc.