SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE TEST-JUNKYARD LS. HOT PLUG v COLD PLUG-DOES IT MATTER? TAPERED VS GASKET PLUGS

[@crushthequarter6863]

I think your tests and shared data is invaluable. I personally appreciate it. Keep it up.

[@karlsracing8422]

Richard holdener crushing myths and legends.

[@tturi2]

I love your sense of humor in some of these videos

[@8bigjay8]

Crazy how engine style changes results. I went through 3 heat ranges and exposed electrode on my 496 and it made best power with the hottest plug that was exposed.

[@davelowets]

Totally depends on chamber design, engine efficiency, and whether your combination of parts work correctly together or not. You may have needed a better ignition, or perhaps your cam wasn't a perfect grind for the rest of your engine, carbed vs EFI, the exhaust system, intake design, and so on. I would hope that the G.M. LS line of engines has improved a bunch since the days of the big blocks.

[@frosty9595]

A very old carbed engine does not have good control of fueling or atomization. That's why they ran huge gaps back then.

[@brandonrohrer7914]

It's the government it always has been

[@jonathancorbett5917]

You haven't been on this channel very long because we all know that squirrels aren't real

[@177SCmaro]

Lol, governments have only existed for around 5000 years. They're relatively a recent concept.

[@hondatech5000]

It’s the rods right? It’s always the rods…

[@michaelblacktree]

In my experience, the gasketed plugs are less likely to break off in the head. So I prefer to use them, when possible.

[@powellsautomotive61]

Just about any question I have with the LS engine. This guy has an answer. Thank you so much

[@theshed8802]

In my opinion, and in my experience, once you have the correct heat range for what you are doing, unless you have an A/F ratio issue around the plug, electrode position isn't really important. However, spark energy is always important. But once you have enough spark energy, more doesn't make much difference, and large excess only hurts reliability. Threads are threads. Gasket or taper seat, is really a packaging issue, which is why we don't see 18mm spark plugs any more.

[@cheaptick]

A hot plug isn't a hot spark... you learn that with different fuels like natural gas or Propane. Gasious fuels act differently than vapor fuels. Would be interested to see testing around this.

[@BOOT]

The old rule of thumb I herd was every 100hp over stock go one step colder. Also one colder for hotter ignition, think MSD even says to go one colder for their CD boxes. Of course those are general guidelines and some situations may be diff. And of course of course, colder for higher compression. I still think all your recent plug test show how Good modern EFI, ignition or even head design is.

[@goratgo1970]

Agree, my crate 502 with DUI dist. and MSD 6a liked a slightly colder plug. Going with TStorm charger and MSD dist. and going to keep as is before I step to colder plug to see if it improves.

[@blow0me]

Hard for that to work....stock say 400hp, 5/6 heat range ? So if say only 1200hp.....plugs 8 ranges cooler don't exist, and certainly are not needed.

[@BOOT]

@@blow0me Search "rule of thumb" & "general guidelines", then maybe re-read my post. Power adders are another factor

[@davelowets]

@@goratgo1970 Definitely start with a cooler plug if you add boost. Detonation easily can become a problem with boost and too hot of a plug.

[@maxhorner2409]

Thank you fer testin this. So go with what works and does not foul.

[@keithdawe4866]

Thank you for taking the time to make the video. Very educational

[@markbulva4188]

Depends a lot on coolant temp also.

[@davelowets]

What does?

[@orangetruckman]

Here’s something I haven’t seen you test and since you’re on a sparky topic, it’s pretty suiting. How much does an MSD box really add to power? Regular ignition, then one with an MSD 💁🏼‍♂️ that’d be an awesome. Thank you for everything you’ve done and continue to do sir!

[@richardholdener1727]

IT ADDS NO POWER IF YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT SPARK TO ELIMINATE MISFIRE-IT ADDS POWER IF YOU CURE MISFIRE

[@Redlineracing91]

@@richardholdener1727 how do I email you for possible testing 😎

[@orangetruckman]

@@richardholdener1727 You the man!

[@Fiftyshadesofbeige]

A dyno test of coils would be interesting. D585 heat sink coils vs square coils vs Ls3 style coils. It’s a deep rabbit hole I went down when I had a 585 die and considered best replacements.

[@blow0me]

585's are overhyped and over-rated.

[@GETLITUP69]

Agree. Also spark plug test on motor with 12.0 comp..6.2. Heads cam...not a small 5.3

[@blow0me]

@@GETLITUP69 likely make zero difference too

[@saab9251]

If you currently have enough spark to ignite the chamber fully, changing to a “better” coil won’t do anything. People don’t realize that on old school SBC’s with distributors and msd boxes they’re easily turning 9000+ rpm in some applications with ONE coil. With multi coil setups, each coil has 1/8 the workload and has to fire at 1/8 the speed of a single coil application. As long as it has enough dwell time before having to discharge, it’s doing its job to the needed standard. The easy way to look at it like asking will a stock fuel pump, a walbro 255, or a 450 make the best power on a stock 5.3? Pumps make zero difference once you’ve met the needs of the rail and system flow.

[@nomercenary5280]

Ive always thought it would be cool to see a video on a stock engine, then adding say headers/intake/etc untuned, then tuning it and seeing the difference tuning makes and why it's really necessary.

[@cuzz63]

we have been seeing that it doesnt make as much difference as you might think. a wilder cam will make more difference though.

[@NightWrencher]

He actually does have videos on that. Theyre older but theyre there

[@richardholdener1727]

WE DON'T DO UNTUNED! I DON'T RUN THE STOCK ECU WITH A MAF THAT MIGHT HELP SELF TUNE SOMEWHAT

[@DarkLinkAD]

The biggest night and days are with the transmission tuning, assuming its an older Auto 4l60 4l80. Torque managment IIRC.

[@michaelgarrow3239]

He does that like everyday…

[@zachkearse]

I'd love to see how much difference using a anti fouler spacer makes

[@gregorykusiak5424]

Resistor vs non-resistor plug test please

[@einstein3509]

A buddy of mine, who builds and tunes engines and loves data. had a 383 on the Dyno used NGK plugs, and then switched to the Autolite same heat range with the ground strap cut shorter, and they gain 6 hp on the Dyno.

[@davelowets]

The NGK plugs must have been fouled out then... I use those same cut back Autolites in my 730h.p. 547" big block, and I can switch to NGK and gain/lose nothing at all. The Autolites DO however last longer for me than the NGK's

[@pb68slab18]

Used to go thru that 'heat range' plug noise with Harleys. Their plugs were made by Champion, which I never liked. I always ran Autolite 4275 (short reach) or 4265 (long reach) and never had any issues.

[@davelowets]

What "heat range plug noise" issues were you having?? 🤔

[@chehystpewpur4754]

as for gasket plug vs taper seat. its all about head design. best seal to the chamber. the more the plug protrudes the more it gets in the way flow atomization and piston contact or valves. you dont want it recessed in the threads either just barely in the mix. heat range on plug on the other hand is always application specific but alot of people seem to have it mixed up too. it comes down to what your doing. think of your spark plug as the source of your ignition. think of a glow plug in the same sense. good luck firing most diesels without the glow plugs when its really cold. now think about your fuel injector as also a source for your ignition. trust me it helps the correlation as you need both of these things at the right time. fuel timing is important so this is why spark plugs have heat ranges. say you get fuel early. a hotter plug will help burn the fuel better as it wont atomize well and be more like droplets. with a higher compression motor less heat is needed as heat and the compression will auto ignite the charge and cause detonation. in a 2 stroke application you still only have 2 ignition source per revolution of the crankshaft on a single cylinder. yet 2 strokes usually run hot plugs. they have expansion chambers and scavenge and reburn the previous air/fuel charges that already went through the combustion chamber. hot plug will keep reaction going better and compression is usually low. things being said in the 2 stroke field the amount of the electrode sticking out is becomming more important as comp ratio rises. head gaskets are going away and squish bands are much better tech. it actually changes the flame front and ignition comes more from the edges of the cylinder than the spark plug once the engine warms and makes a ton more power and yet again raises safe compression ratio. cylinder designers design the head for certain plug and you run said plug. its in the right spot plays nice with the fatty pipe and stays out of the way when the magic happens. changes like that allow a tiny single cylinder to make 17-20 hp reliably and run pump gas. with a 15:1 compression ratio. you know engines you know thats alot of comp for pump gas. keep in mind its also not big cc cylinder its only 70cc technically really 68cc. these guys run a "squish" of .7mm you can increase or decrease squish to change compression and flame front characteristics but power suffers obviously. that .7mm is piston to cylinder head clearance you dont get much wiggle room and you have to always be careful when making changes. failure could be catastrophic for many reasons very easily. this one launches at just over 10k rpms and accelerates around 10,800 rpms until the ignition system cuts out at 12k rpms. it hits around 70 mph before the cvt hits its final gear and the rpms climb from its acceleration rpm. with a different exhaust i can raise the engines usefulness to around 14k rpms atleast 13k with a slightly weaker exhaust that also comes in at a lower rpms too so i can have more power everywhere. if i were to raise my power band i cant use longer plugs as the plug could contact the piston under heavy loads. things stretch under crazy high rpms high heat or major forces. always pick your parts not parts off a shelf.

[@mattleonard5268]

I think this series of spark plug videos you’ve done on the Ls have shown and proven that Ls motors don’t really care what spark plugs you put in or how you put them in as long as they work and I think this is because the Ls has such a good ignition system.

[@yunoguy2498]

Try doing a test with some of the old anti-foulers and see how much power the cost

[@wscap4576]

Cool. Tyvm Richard

[@supermotodan7046]

The only thing I haven’t seen you try for spark plugs is the surface discharge plugs like brisk makes. Ngk also makes those style plugs and Indy and formula 1 and the motorcycle racing world exclusively use them. I would think there must be something to those if the oem race teams are using them. I’ve had fouling on long cruises on 9 heat range ngk plugs in my stroker nitrous ls1.

[@TheManFrayBentos]

I tried some projected nose plugs on my old Suzuki air-cooled four-cyl engine and noticed a very slight improvement in idle smoothness, and perhaps a little bit of extra perkiness on take-off, but nothing that would probably show up on a dyno. I'm not too bothered. A little improvement building upon another little improvement helps, though.

[@utahcountypicazospage5412]

Hotter plugs work well on carburetor cars after a good tune with proper jets/rods one step hotter keeps the plug cleaner also helps acceleration or tip in

[@davelowets]

Not if it causes detonation, or pre-ignition...

[@blainesnider9089]

We should do this test on an older carb and points and HEI setups.

[@NightWrencher]

It wouldnt change anything

[@blainesnider9089]

@@NightWrencher I think you are not correct. The spark is much weaker

[@NightWrencher]

@@blainesnider9089 heat range doesnt affect max timing. The only time you would go with a colder plus was if there were signs of detonation. You go with a hotter plug if it fouls too easily. Neither of those situations affect max timing.

[@blainesnider9089]

@@NightWrencher wasn't talking about heat range only the entire test sequence that was done on the LS

[@NightWrencher]

@@blainesnider9089 if you did this test on a sbc on points, the results would be the same. Spark quality is not affected by heat range. Now, if we are talking about spark gap, there is a difference and he has a test on it

[@QuicKurtZX14R]

Colder plug definitely costs mileage some. Have tested this on a stock (with bolt ons and tune) street driven 6.0

[@davelowets]

Then its too cold for your application.

[@QuicKurtZX14R]

@@davelowetsI know this, but it's suggested to use a 1 step colder plug to lessen the chance of pinging or detonation from the heat. The lower MPG confirms both our thoughts. Mainly suggested for racing or hard running.

[@imadude85]

I can attest to this, changed to colder plugs and got slightly worse gas mileage. But on the other hand, I can pull at higher gear at low RPM without my engine making that crackling sound. It was making that noise with the previous stock (worn) plug.

[@martinp8427]

Great video, Richard! I really like your spark plug videos, they give us valuable data that most of us don't have access to. I would love to see you testing different kinds of spark plugs that utilize the principle of surface air gap. Plugs such as Bosch Platinum Fusion, Brisk Premium Evo/ Premium LGS/ Premium ZC/ZS, Beru Ultra X PLatin and so on. Hope you'll have time to test them and make a video! Best regards.

[@richardholdener1727]

don't look for any significant power in plugs unless there is a misfire

[@davelowets]

@@richardholdener1727 Right on....

[@martinp8427]

@@richardholdener1727 Thank you for replying.

[@utahcountypicazospage5412]

This test shows how good engines and ignition systems are now

[@Sami-gs7qb]

Great work, as usual ❤

[@fbombcamaro434]

Maybe some video what does make a difference?

[@Jim_Lawrence]

I run Beru ZD-11 without issues. They either work or they don't.

[@tonyfinaldi737]

Iv noticed that my 2019 2500 silverado 6.0L pings often with the stock plugs and I can feel the computer taking out timing out. Im thinking about getting a colder set to help and go back to hotter plugs once then engine starts to burn oil. You should see if you can make table changes with different heat ranges to see the effects. Like if you can run more timing on colder plugs.

[@bluegizmo1983]

This is one of those things that most people would never benefit from, but became a myth after awhile. "If you run cooler spark plugs you'll gain some power!". It's just not true for most situations. Yes, if you are running lots of boost and your running hot plugs, you probably WILL see a power increase by switching to cooler plugs, but it's because you were using the wrong plugs to begin with, and that doesn't mean everyone else should change to cooler plugs as well.

[@alanwrenchgarage]

Of course you do

[@bobroberts2371]

Possible spark plug tests: Use " oil foulers " on a good motor. Those spark plug extensions that pull the plug away from the head to increase heat range and the small hole shrouds the plug from liquid oil. ) Does a double ended coil ( waste spark ) affect power due to: Spark occurring in the exhaust stroke / spark jumping from the center to strap on one plug and strap to center on the other plug. An easy way to test spark jumping direction power would be to use one waste spark coil per cylinder and install a dummy plug on the unused end.

[@davelowets]

I would say "No" to the direction the spark jumps the gap.

[@turbosupra2jzdragracingtob249]

I would like to see a test of coils… target a rich afr on both and see if a better coil ignites a rich afr better and makes more power.

[@richardholdener1727]

it doesn't

[@turbosupra2jzdragracingtob249]

@@richardholdener1727 Watched one your AFR test vids and it appears AFR doesn’t change much power at all as long as it’s within reason.

[@Vanessinha91Pucca]

I remember on my flex fuel (stock) i set a colder plug to use only ethanol. The car felt way different on lower RPM with load. Felt lazy to rev.

[@superjervis]

tuning issue?

[@Vanessinha91Pucca]

@@superjervis Not really, felt more as a dirt spike plug, you know? When the tunning it self is there but it's a burning issue at lower to mid RPM

[@patrickwendling6759]

Thx for your knowledge 💪🏽

[@loko306]

Great content! Is there a video testing the performance difference only by changing the gap?

[@QuicKurtZX14R]

Yes there is

[@NightWrencher]

Yeah there is. It came out a few weeks ago. Just check his videos

[@cuzz63]

as others pointed out he did a vid...it only made much difference (power loss) at extreme gaps. too little or too much.

[@karlsracing8422]

What about electrode cutting back?

[@LSturboguy]

we used to run a small block Pontiac 312ci with 13-1 compression on methanol we used washers on our plugs more so for clearance and which way the tips were facing so they didnt hit the piston we did all these dyno tests on it and we found absolutely no loss or gain from them including temp of plugs there was nothing in it we just ran what type worked better for the compression ratio and fuel the only thing we saw the hotter plug started up easier on methanol

[@davelowets]

Pontiac engines dont have a "big block" OR a "small block". The block sizes are all the same from the 301 on up to the 455. 😕 Also, the heat range of the plug will make ZERO difference to the way an engine "starts up".

[@AdamOpheim]

Keep telling the folks over on the E85 forums that they don't need or want a hot plug. Mark Sullens swears there is "good power" to be picked up with a hotter plug and that they have dyno tested and proven it. I don't see how. If the plug isn't fouling, no reason for a hotter plug. Or at least that's what I believed.

[@Okiefreedom]

I run ngk 7's on my hot NA motors and ngk 4's on stockers

[@MasterWitchDoctor]

On my 1985 GPz 750 turbo I had to increase the heat range 2 numbers because above 8500 rpm the boost blew the spark off the plug like blowing out a candle. I used an MSD ignition and coils and Nippondenso 16 copper core plugs and started exploding turbos because the impellers were spinning so fast oil wouldnt stick to the bearings and theyd lock up and explode. Terry Kizer put a Torringinton 2 stage bearing in a turbo and that made my engine live till 4th gear, the turbos exploded under boost in 3rd before I had the new bearings. I was putting 52 psi at the intake valve @ 12,000 rpm and my engine liked hotter plugs and VP C16 fuel.

[@richardholdener1727]

just say no to hotter plugs on a turbo and bring the plug gap down-you won't blow out the spark

[@connor3288]

How much wheel horsepower? Turbo bikes are badass. Stock turbo? Sounds like maybe turbo overspeed failure.

[@ts302]

Great video series Mr. Holdener! How about resistor vs non resistor plugs? Also, when reading plugs for AF/timing, does changing heat range change anything? Thank you!

[@richardholdener1727]

it should not change the timing mark on the electrode

[@blow0me]

resistor plugs should be used to help prevent electrical noise when running an EFI system

[@johnpittman7928]

I’d like to see a test for if there is a power difference with decapped fuel injectors???

[@davelowets]

Only if your engine needs more fuel than a capped injector can provide.

[@nathansumerlin8391]

Its always a cool test. But do all of these tests on a high compression combo and the results might change.or an older school motor with lower power ignition! The ls-ish ignition is rather good and is masking some issues guys have with plugs. I have a sbc combo that was sensitive to gap and heat range on the street, the better hvc msd coil solved that issue, and have been trying more gap to test, but some cylinders had issues with over .040 gap and 100 miles on the street, even a lean tune. The better coils allows a richer tune and no plug issues after 1000’s of street miles. It might be interesting to test this on and older simpler motor to see what happens. I did plug testing on around a 100hp banshee on the dyno and plugs and gaps were worth 10hp, and another banshee gained 20hp with a different ignition box I think these tests might be more interesting now on a boosted motor

[@richardholdener1727]

plugs and gap worth 10 hp on 100-hp motor?

[@nathansumerlin8391]

A methonal 2 stroke, factory ignition, 443cc. Yes and even fresh plugs gapped to .018 would lose 5 hp after 5 runs, and a fresh set would restore power. And the same motor hated a different cdi box, and another love that aftermarket box and hated the oem. A larger motor on methonal with the same ignition was not gap or plug sensitive but was cdi box sensitive. It lost 10hp with the same ignition on rhe larger motor, but gains 10hp on top Of rhe the old motor peak, and regained almost 20 hp frame a cdi box change, the exact same cdi box lost 1.5 hp. From the old comb! It can be crazy on rhe edge! I bet if you tested a 1000hp turbo 5.3, the plug gap may be worth some hp

[@nathansumerlin8391]

Still love the test! If things are working, no reason to change. Your test kinda proves the need for a good ignition, it’s way less sensitive to other factors! I had a and msd plug boot issue that would sometimes allow the boot to slightly pop off and cause a misfire, three new plug wires ended up fixing that issue, I bet most old “issues” are ignition quality related, but it might be a cool test, an eBay hei vs the world!!! Lol

[@davelowets]

I don't buy the 10h.p. claim either, unless the plugs were defective to begin with. The 20h.p. from a different ignition, no way, unless the box had a radically different timing scheme in it that the other one did not.

[@nathansumerlin8391]

I tried several new plugs with the same results. When you’re at the limits of an ignition there are big changes From small changes. This test is on a mild combo with a good ignition the test woul be interesting on a motor with boost, if he ran .100 gap on the Big Bang engines there is a good chance tightening up the gap it’s worth a bunch of power..

[@DJ_Driven]

I watched all your spark plug test videos. Why don’t you try another platform like an evo 8/9 or STi that’s boosted with some performance mods and do another round of comparisons?

[@jimgee2676]

i have a 1070 318 la engine , i used to run rn14yc and autolite 66 and they both ran the same then i put in a set of ngk gr4 platinum plug and the engine began to run lean and no more raw fuel smell out the tailpipe ...what do you say i should do ,,,keep the platinum plugs and richen the mixture a bit or go back to the coppere plugs and lean it out a bit

[@lindsaymcpherson4744]

Great video guys ,have you done a video comparing compression ratios in a big block Chevy ??

[@richardholdener1727]

no sir

[@aphil4581]

With the BBC the old how to supe up a bb chevy book said to use two different heat ranges of plugs because Its port configurations are like running two different 4cyl engines.

[@davelowets]

@@aphil4581 Sorry, that's complete nonsense..

[@joshgunn7486]

Richard would these tests matter more on older engines with weaker ignition systems than modern Coil On Plug? As I understand heat range has more to do with keeping the plug from building up carbon over time

[@mikeb7837]

Or carbonated with a less than optimal combustion chamber like a flathead.

[@davelowets]

Heat range has ALL to do with keeping the plugs clean.

[@jeffburtonnottheracecardriver]

Isn't misfiring taken out by computer adjustments, so the only way to tell is to "view" what adjustments are being made with an analyzer or expensive scanner?

[@richardholdener1727]

misfire isn't taken out by computer (that happens in the) chamber

[@michaelspiering7585]

While on the subject of spark plugs, how would the difference between a extended tip and a standard plug? For example, a champion n5c and an n4yc?

[@michaelspiering7585]

Nevermind, you already answered that. It's not going to make any difference.

[@nonyayet1379]

i left a comment, actually more of a question, on a 10 month old video. I don't know how far back you on to read comments. those answers will not just suit me, but suit nearly every 5.0 efi sbf being built for street application. granted, a lot of folks won't be able to afford the heads, likewise adding that to the answers, might be helpful for a lot of your viewers (in addition to the questions i asked). the title to the video i left it on is: HOW MUCH POWER IS A 5.0L CAM SWAP WORTH? WHAT IS THE BEST CAM FOR MY 5.0L 302? 5.0L FORD EFI VS CARB much appreciated, yer one damned fine fella. (as is most of the west tech folks) (back in the late 80's, early 90's, absent westech i had to run hard up n down the hill to big bear to test my upgrades!! (those where the days). no longer out there thou.... I headed east eventually... (that elevation change tells a lot of secrets with performance)

[@scottallpress3818]

Test massively long plugs vs short ….. you mentioned about the static compression change in this vid .

[@jimw8016]

I've tested short plugs vs long on a sbc 355. on an aluminum head designed for long plugs,(typical ls plugs), DONT use short plugs like r44ts. It's like reducing displacement from 355 to 55! HUGE losses everywhere. WASNT intentional but that's the result. I presume because the plug was recessed so far in the plug hole it took way too much time to ignite the a/f mixture.

[@camj256]

This guy is growing on me. I just wish he was testing some of this stuff with higher boost motors making like 1000 at minimum. 1400-1600 would be nice.

[@richardholdener1727]

1600-hp motors are difficult to keep consistent-for plugs on a 1600-hp motor-gap is the most important thing

[@camj256]

@richardholdener1727 I agree. Which is why I'm here moaning about it. 1400 crank can be consistent. The game starts to change a lot much past that though. In theory a lot scales with boost so the 5.3 method of your videos works but I don't think so much with plugs. As I just trashed some plugs with holley smart coils and a low boost of 22# (for this engine). Every combo does get different as my lower compression 1800hp motor was fine with 36# and truck coils. But the monster boost heads and 11 to one on e85 had enough blowby with 2 10an breathers to shoot the rear main seal out the back and shutdown the track for 20min. I don't like being that guy and I thought I had everything in place to not be that guy. Appreciate the videos and reply. Just my 2c

[@camj256]

@richardholdener1727 and I know us guys running large hp probably aren't your target audience so it may not be worth your time or money to test that or risk those engines. It would be cool to see a catch can video at some point and what size is really needed and the blowthrough that can happen with larger ring gaps and running e or meth.

[@camj256]

I'd be willing to donate an LSX bare block to you if you use it for stuff like this. Could probably get a k1 crank and some cheaper rods and pistons if you're interested. It's sitting at ACE Engines in Torrance right now. It's been remilled and refreshed but the deck height is just slightly lower so it's going to need custom height rods because it was milled by my original builder (not going to drop names) crooked.@@richardholdener1727

[@richardholdener1727]

plugs are not usually the problem with boost-coils either-they need the dwell cranked up to 4.0-4.5-and even 1400 hp is not repeatable enough to look for small changes in power

[@aaronburt1103]

It would be cool if you CC measured the cylinder heads with the tapered plug and the gasketed plug to see if that taper plug subtracted like half a cc

[@richardholdener1727]

AGREED-BUT IT DIDN'T CHANGE POWER

[@blow0me]

there is no difference between the two for same design of plug. taper/gasket both protrude the same. I tried them in some OE heads, Edelbrock heads and TFS heads many years ago. they're just the same.

[@el_txserpico4501]

Love the videos, i sm seeking a rebuild recipe for an original L31 in my 98 chevy c1500. I been contemplating 383 / cam / heads rebuild as a daily driver on a budget. Any recipes you can offer are greatly appreciated

[@richardholdener1727]

383, small cam, home ported vortec heads, dual plane, 750 carb, headers

[@el_txserpico4501]

@@richardholdener1727 thank you! I want to keep it TBI . Also what are good rebuild / stroker kits (brand ) to rebuild with on a budget? As for cam I have heard LT4 and even ram jet cams are good for daily driver

[@button-puncher]

Best bang for the buck coils? D585 "heatsink" coil still the best? Test them under high boost and/or wide gap. Can you log coil voltage and current? Solid vs resistive wires? (EMI from solid wires can mess with crank/cam VR signals.)

[@richardholdener1727]

we used ls3 coils on the big bang motors

[@v8vega355]

Any videos on recurving a distributor by chance?

[@maclogan6872]

Dr. Richard, does the test temp of the engine influence the hot vs cold plug? Did not notice the testing heat of the engine.

[@davelowets]

No

[@sanger440]

How about testing resistor vs non resistor plugs with the Holley EFI. Do non resistor plugs with stock ls coils on a Holley EFI cause issues due to electrical noise (RFI?) ? Inter webs have varying opinions on this.

[@pjburges]

I listened to the whole video and have a question. What would happen if you played with the timing in these tests? Could you get a little more timing into a cold plug, or would knock be a little more forgiving on a cold plug? I've heard a lot of tuners make the comment that running a TR6 NGK plug vs the stock TR55 makes it a little easier to tune and dial in the engine because the knock resistance being a bit better makes it more forgiving. Nobody ever makes the comment on if more power can be milked out of one over the other though. In my example there we are talking N/A engines and only one heat range of shift, which is pretty minimal. Though it is interesting I hear that just with one heat range colder than OEM there is a measurable difference in knock resistance. I would love to see you test knock/timing impacts on an LS motor vs heat range.

[@richardholdener1727]

we alter timing til we get maximum power-

[@sc_mastertech8641]

The couple times I have experimented with colder plug I end up fouling it easily and going back to what works. I thought trying it was a good idea as even though I was already one heat range colder then stock since I was adding more boost it might be a good idea, didn’t have any luck with that and haven’t had any issues making 900rwhp on a BR7ef plug.

[@NightWrencher]

Thats what Im running

[@maurymoynihan5245]

Same 991awhp daily

[@ummduhgmail]

That's the entire point of the heat range. To keep them clean. If you kept fouling them out on a good tune then they're too cold. That's it.

[@aphil4581]

On a N/A 6.0 over bore 0.030 x 4.1 stroker @ 12.1 93 pump gas I got detonation I could hear in the summer in FL. Was ok in the winter so Br6's in winter and Br7's in the summer.

[@saab9251]

Remember that winter and summer fuels are different and many times have different vapor pressures. This can cause this issue and I’m having the same problem in Georgia.

[@luetner]

I had a 1967 mustang 289 that I installed a street master + AFB, a RV cam and headers. Originally the stock configuration would get about 20 - 25 MPG. The modified config gave about 18 MPG. I played with jetting and got into lean serge. I changed to the colder spark plug, Hipo for the 289 and was able to go leaner.

[@corvettedude4423]

Please do a spark plug side gap modification test

[@richardholdener1727]

good idea-but same results

[@corvettedude4423]

@@richardholdener1727 i haven’t seen him posting a video of that though, and can’t find anyone test it on a dyno

[@bdugle1]

How about anti-seize on the threads? Someone recently said it’ll cause misfires due to a bad ground. I would think the ground would be made at the seat, not threads, and I’d like to be able to get them back out down the road. Anti-seize or no, Richard?

[@richardholdener1727]

yes, use anti seize for new plugs

[@davelowets]

I had heard the bad ground issue from anti-seize from a trusted dyno tuner once also. I'm not sure what to think of it. I guess it could be theorerically possible if someone slathered the plugs so full of it that it coated every bit of metal that contacted the head... 🤷🏻

[@chriswaits7697]

I'd be really interested in seeing a performance shootout on lowbuck wires (AC DELCO) VS some high dollar name brand wires to see if there was a significant increase in performance.

[@richardholdener1727]

THERE IS NOT-UNLESS MISFIRE OCCURS

[@chriswaits7697]

Thanks man! Just bought my first hot rod (49 ford) and I've learned A TON of stuff from your channel!

[@zachkearse]

Also what effects would the anti fouler spacers have on a boosted application.

[@davelowets]

Probably not good

[@bartbarnett2811]

So I run an extremely high compression for running on pump gas. My compression ratio is 12/1 ish that number doesn't really matter what matters is compression test 265 PSI. And I've had a problem before with cheap spark plugs that had a little sharp piece of metal on it and caused detonation issues. What I want to know is if you were to polish the spark plugs smooth and point the gap. Could you in theory get one or two more degrees of timing gaining just a few horsepower. I'm thinking maybe even squeeze an extra 10 out of it

[@ChroniclesofKToyoda]

It would be nice if he played with timing during these various spark plug changes, but he's responded to me earlier saying it's not necessary as if detonation characteristics don't charge🤷🏼so yeah

[@richardholdener1727]

the plug does not change the chamber design-timing requirement is the same

[@davelowets]

If you're buying plugs that have random sharp pieces of metal protruding from them, you had better stop shopping on Alibaba

[@jeffburtonnottheracecardriver]

Instead of power, do any adjustments to spark plugs that you have tested (electrodes, indexing,seating,etc.) have an effect on fuel burn efficiency(cleaner emissions) or fuel use efficiency(mpg)?

[@richardholdener1727]

we tested indexing and gap and plug styles

[@EpicScandinavian]

Is there any sparkplug that has a measurable effect on compression ratio/ combustion chamber volume?

[@scottgarmon4865]

Only time I have run into fouling issues with cold plugs were with carb blow through engines on the streets. EFI has much better fueling control than carb stuff so makes sense. Unfortunately Tuning carburetors is a dying art.

[@walterhcarterjr1379]

Resistor and Non Resistor Spark Plugs?

[@hondatech5000]

How many non-foulers would it take to change the compression ratio a full point I wanna run 87 :p

[@zoomer3drey]

I always wondered different ring gaps vs different boost! Power outcome

[@davelowets]

No difference in power, but it'll sure keep from popping the top of the ring lands off the piston with the correct ring gaps. The correct ring gap size vs bore size vs boost level will ultimately keep the ring gaps ending up the same under the expansion from the heat.

[@zoomer3drey]

@@davelowets make sense! (:

[@zoomer3drey]

@@davelowets is there a formula for prefer ring gap and boost, bore size?

[@rolandotillit2867]

How about running non-foulers on the plugs with some(4) 1.5mm holes drilled out the side?

[@hondatech5000]

Holes in the nonfouler that would be cool if the engine runs you could see how long it takes before it catches something on fire :p

[@rolandotillit2867]

@@hondatech5000 It's basically what F1 engines are doing, along with the Maserati MC20. It's just a cap over the spark plug with 1.2mm holes drilled in. Natural gas engines use the same thing. It's called a passive pre-chamber. Of course, things like timing, and AF ratio would have to be tuned to work with it.

[@nimblybimbly4002]

In a Live show a couple days ago I asked about the warning BTR has posted, in the Hot Rod camshaft kit page, not to run it above 6500 RPM. I called them to ask about it. They said it's due to the spring retainer included (powdered metal). He said using a titanium spring retainer would eliminate the cause for the warning.

[@richardholdener1727]

why would a retainer change that?

[@nimblybimbly4002]

@@richardholdener1727 No idea! The guy on the tech line said it with conviction so I assumed it would make sense to you. I'm even more interested now that you're questioning it!

[@blow0me]

@@richardholdener1727 presumably quality, strength, weight ? Maybe they think the PM might fail ? If so, not a great idea putting them out there

[@davelowets]

@@blow0me I would completely agree with that! Why put out junk that could fail like that, when a steel retainer CAN'T be that much more expensive to make. A retainer is only a few bucks to begin with. 🤔

[@blow0me]

@@davelowets Even the Ti ones aren't really that expensive. In some areas, it's just not even worth trying to skimp on costs, or create a cheaper part.

[@CamaroKevin84]

My mechanic father of 40 years says those tapered plugs r crap. Bc u can just can not get those kinds tight enough bc u will mess up the plug thread hole on the head. Especially aluminum LS heads. I can't find a washered seat plug for my LS

[@richardholdener1727]

your father is incorrect-the factory LS plugs are tapered seat and work perfectly for 100,00+ miles at a time. You can also run gasket plugs on stock head-but it places the tip of the plug at a different position in the chamber.

[@rixxxer5460]

single plug heads vs twin plug heads , any difference?

[@elkvis]

Can you add a degree or two of spark advance with colder plugs? Did you test this, or did you keep the tune the same between runs?

[@NightWrencher]

Plug heat range will have no effect on max timing.

[@rene7500]

I Got a question. I see you dont have an videos about 2 step so I would like to ask you can I add a MSD 2 step to my stock 4l60e ? What would be my outcome or what do you suggest I do.

[@whaddayawant2197]

Any testing in the future with the older ls1 coils(apparently higher spark output) vs stock 5.3 coils?

[@richardholdener1727]

WE RUN STOCK LS3 COILS

[@luisetorres5760]

Question: I have two cars with the same engines but one low comp supercharged and the other hi compression n/a. Sparkplugs are two heat ranges apart from each other. The question is, what happens if I use the n/a sparkplugs on the supercharged engine? Both stock cars

[@richardholdener1727]

use colder plugs in both

[@trailerparkcryptoking5213]

Test plugs by driving then reading the plug itself for proper fuel and timing.

[@save16thave]

What about using iridium or platinum plugs with nitrous? I've always heard to use the cheap copper plugs with nitrous because they will melt before a piston will.

[@richardholdener1727]

the idea is not to melt the plug or piston

[@save16thave]

@@richardholdener1727 That's true, but sometimes things happen. Like a fuel solenoid doesn't open or there is a problem with an electric fuel pump or an angry ex girlfriend stuffs a sock in your fuel cell, etc.

[@kevinengland4042]

Did you do a timing/afr sweep when changing from the hot to cold plug?

[@ChroniclesofKToyoda]

I'm assuming he hasn't, I brought up timing to utilise different plugs before, he was off the opinion that it wasn't necessary

[@mrrobot545]

I wonder going from brand to brand? Like NGK to Denso. AC delco, autolite. Bosh etc

[@richardholdener1727]

see the e3 spark plug test

[@mrrobot545]

@@richardholdener1727 I did. Another great video. How about this? I’ve been curious about say a copper vs fancy laser iridium in a turbo application. I know the K series people say iridium. Wondering if there’s a difference. Since we are on testing plugs out.

[@malamri424]

Can hotter plugs limit how much timing you can run on 87 or 89 octane? Also, don't you need to run the engine for hours to let it heat soak to see an actual difference?

[@richardholdener1727]

HOURS?

[@DarkLinkAD]

@@richardholdener1727 I do a 3 day warmup before leaving for work, get on my level.

[@malamri424]

@@richardholdener1727 For spark knock to be apparent. I know it's difficult to do on the dyno, but my understanding is that in a real application, driving around for hours brings up hot spots (like a spark plug) which may produce knock and therefore reduced power.

[@davelowets]

@@malamri424 No. If the plugs are going to develop hot spots because they are too high of a heat range, they will do it in seconds under hard acceleration.

[@marvinsauer8493]

With colder plug could you sneak in a degree or two of timing?

[@richardholdener1727]

the heat range of the plug doesn't determine the optimum ignition timing

[@SmokeyWire56]

@marvin, yes, and with a cold plug and hot spark, you can add more fule with those few degrees of timing giving more power. I think if the tests were done on a carb the result would be more power with the timing and fule variable. But in this test case there won't a change in power.

[@boosted0079]

I have done a bit of reading on spark plug heat ranges for boosted applications, and the electrode material (copper, platinum, iridium) also having an affect. Copper electrodes being the best because that dissipate heat better, but what we don't have, is actual test data to support these claims. Richard, is there a way you might be able to run a controlled test like this? Not necessarily sure HP gains, but rather it's affects on KR and detonation?

[@aphil4581]

I would think a dyno is showing you the same thing better gains more power would equal hottest spark without any detonation.

[@davelowets]

@@aphil4581 A spark plus heat range has absolutely no influence on the "heat of the spark". The heat range has ONLY to do with how fast the tip of the plug transfers combustion heat to the surrounding metal of the head, and ultimately what temperature that the tip of the plug runs at. The entire purpose of the different heat ranges is to get the right temperature of plug that runs hot enough to be able to burn off deposits that end up on it as the engine runs, but not run hot enough to promote detonation or pre-ignition. That's it...

[@connor3288]

KR? Knock resistance? I imagine the heat range allows you to compare different material plugs. Makes sense to me to run a colder plug than stock on boosted or nitrous engine, the worst that should happen with too cold a plug is fouling up.

[@boosted0079]

@@connor3288 KR is knock retard. When the PCM detects any knock from the knock sensors, the PCM will retard the timing to help prevent it from damage. At least that's the idea. I use plugs that are 1 heat range lower than stock since I've added boost. But I'm currently using copper tipped plugs instead of platinum or iridium. I'm more curious on seeing data on the electrode tip material. I do know that copper dissipates heat more efficiently than iridium or platinum by almost double. On paper research that is. Just curious if it's really a factor on causing knock.

[@dirtylsracing6475]

Have you ever done a video on throttle body size comparison on a boosted application??

[@richardholdener1727]

yes

[@dirtylsracing6475]

Just a heads up some sent me a email as a reply from this video and they’re pretending to be you and it says to claim my package. IDK 🤷‍♂️ ??? I thought it was weird

[@robertturner333]

What would be the difference if you were to use “race type” surface discharge etc plugs

[@12thMonkey]

Does the Craftsman screwdriver mod add any horsepower ?

[@StephenGiovi]

Richard: What is the Temperature of the engine comparing different plugs? Just wondering.

[@richardholdener1727]

150 COOLANT

[@curlracing276]

Could you do a test on reach? Like correct thread reach and too short of a reach where the electrode/ground strap is up in the cylinder head and not directly in the chamber. Reason I ask is I’ve had people install the wrong plugs being too short and the engine still ran just would like to see what happens on the dyno. It’s a common thing on the small block ford with aftermarket aluminum heads requiring a longer reach plug and the auto parts store just gives them a plug based on the make and model.

[@richardholdener1727]

the tapered seat vs gasket did that

[@curlracing276]

@@richardholdener1727 I was looking for more than a 3/16” difference. Like the ground strap be 1/4” up in the hole away from the combustion chamber. Way too short of a reach.

[@davelowets]

@@curlracing276 There's no purpose for a test like that. It would be no different than intentionally running the wrong jets in a carburetor... Just get the right parts.

[@officeassistant1292]

Hi Richard does wrapping the headers produce more horsepower?

[@richardholdener1727]

probably not