The Cell Builder explained: Q and A

[@OutdoorsandCountryLiving]

Awesome job! Thank you and blessings. Stay well buddy!

[@gmskippy]

Mate thanks so much for taking the time to explain your method of Queen raising. Look forward to your next video.

[@thesandovalfarm2426]

I want to thank you for making these Beekeeping videos. I have learned lots.

[@richardnoel3141]

Thank you!

[@travisemerson8156]

Using this method to raise cells at work grafted 640 looks like I'm getting 458 cells out for matting yards. This is awesome thank you for sharing your knowledge..

[@saintjohncoleman8602]

Thanks for addressing the flexibility of queen rearing right away. I’m only raising about 10 to fill some empty nucs for sale, I posted my success on a local bee group FB page, and got reamed by some guy for not having enough bees in the starter/finisher. The bees were ok with my decision and made 7 fat queen cells. Also, as a guy with less than 20 hives, the full NICOT works for me. I’m a hobby beek, so I have the time to move the queen in and out. Last point, I transfer entire frames of bees on brood 100 yards between hives without shaking into queenless builders with no loss and no fighting. Foragers just reorient. Great videos. Thanks!

[@chrisboulanger4824]

Thanks Richard about your dedication and willingness to share your expertise. I'm hoping you will have time to answer some questions. 1) Do you run several cell builders in a rotation or are you using only one that you refill with brood every 20 days or so? 2) How many cycles of grafting do you do in a season? 3) With 15 (or so) brood factories/cell finishers; how many nucs can you make at each graft cycle? Are they made up with one or two frames of brood (or more)? How many nucs do you produce every year? 4) Mike Palmer seem to include the bees attached to the frames of capped brood when building the cell builder; you seem not to include the bees; any reason? Again, many thanks --- you're great!

[@richardnoel3141]

ok Simon, thanks for your question. if you go to "the cell builder explained, questions and answers" that should clear ups few of your questions. but... it depends, sometimes if a cell binder performs really well I will keep that queen going and add a second 10 frames of brood and use it all over again 10 days later. I graft from mid may to mid august, how many cycles, good question.!🤪 no idea really. I make about 150 nucs each year. my queens are distributed between queens for mating nucs, queens for requesting swarmed colonies and queens to put straight in to nucs. I can't really answer your last question, I put in capped brood like him, yes of course, but I am not sure what exactly your asking. hope this helps. Richard

[@michael2B]

Thanks Richard I appreciate your honest straight forward explanation of your regionally specific technique.

[@dandorosheff256]

Hello Richard. Thank you for your time and instruction. I'm just getting into queen rearing. My questions are: 1.) Can someone purchase the cup holders without purchasing the NICO kit? I like how the NICO cages interface with the cup holders for grow out in the incubator. 2.)If you have concerns of the queen destroying cells in the builder, if she get past the excluder, why aren't you concerned that a queen can get past an excluder in a finisher? I do realize that your starter needs to be free of cells for the next grafted frame, and this is why you move started cells to finishers. I don't have that many hives at this point to have starters and finishers. 3.) Can you do a video on the actual grafting process? 4.) what temperature do you set your incubator at? 93 F- 97 F. I understand that humidity is important in the incubator. I imagine you use a wet sponge. Do you monitor the humidity levels? Thank you again. Best Regards from Florida

[@WebberAerialImaging]

Perfect! I didn't have to ask because my questions were answered! Thanks so much for this video.

[@577bluegrass]

What a wealth of great information ! I am going to start rasing Queens. I have seen virgins qeens on the ground around my hives . So for first time cell starters I would think you would be ahead to have two. Because of the possiblity of a " rouge qeen" ? Thank you!

[@davyhaex5395]

Hi Richard, Thanks for the video. I currently use a cellbuilder, but without a queenbox below. So just one box Full of brood. After 9 days I break all the "rescue" queen cells, and I can insert my graft. However, with the qeenbox below (and seperator), the broodbox will not be queenless and thus 'should" not build any "rescue" queen cells. However, in your video, I saw you still checked for queencells in the broodbox before grafting?

[@simplifygardening]

Richard have you done a video on storing your comb through winter to stop it going brittle or full of wax moth?

[@richardnoel3141]

UK Here We Grow no I don’t usually have an issue but may be I could share what I do! Thanks for the ideas!

[@simplifygardening]

@@richardnoel3141 Yeah I am always looking to see how others do theirs and hadnt noticed one on your channel, just wanted to check I hadnt missed it. Look forward to it later in the year :)

[@TheSoilandGreen]

Grafted 30 got 2 beauties lol first time, no prep just pulled one frame of brood and 1 honey. Shook a few in the box. Needed more

[@joer5627]

Thank you for the videos Richard. Planning next year (my 3rd year) to raise some queens. Appreciate your ideas

[@benjamindejonge3624]

Love your queen selections, but do you feed as well your own stock royal bell, and how do you selective drowns for the fertilizer

[@charlesthomas5737]

Richard, another great video with very clear explanations to a lot of great questions that beekeepers have been trying to get answered. You don't realize what a great service you are providing for the new beekeepers trying to learn how to raise queens so they can be self sustainable; like Mike Palmer encourages everyone to do. This year because of your videos and the knowledge you have given me I am going try to raise my on queens here in the USA. Thanks again keep making more videos.

[@richardnoel3141]

Thanks for your kind words Charles. I got a lucky break when Mike Palmer taught me!. its only right to try and share with others. Good luck for this season!!!

[@danieltaylor8113]

Mr. Richard, i am going to try grafting this year and i wanted to see what you think would be a suitable size for a cell builder, in my situation. I have 4 hives, this will be 2nd year bee keeping. I love it and want to try grafting as a cool thing to start learning. I have the supplies to graft 20 cells at a time, and will probably do it only once at first, maybe twice tops. Would i be ok using a 5 frame nuc box instead of a 10 frame box as a cell builder? 10 frames is alot for me as i dont have much to pull from (2 hives 2 boxes each, and 2 hives 1 box each) would i be getting inferior queens from a smaller cell builder even if i could keep the nutrition up? I already have the extra boxes and i have a nuc box too. And if you think i could do a nuc box starter, what would you recommend my frames be. Like... 5 frames hatching brood, then when i graft... maybe 1 graft frame, one pollen frame... then what should my other 3 frames be once my graft frame is in the cell starter?

[@showmebees9431]

Another excellent video which actually answered many of my questions. I see that there's no sense in a super strong finisher when they are only going to finish about 50 regardless of strength. You've helped me tremendously in working out the details of my plan for spring. Have a great weekend and I hope your bees have a very productive spring!

[@richardnoel3141]

Thanks, you too. don't forget to post your results if you can! looking forward to hear how you get on.

[@rougaroubeecompany6948]

Another great video

[@kathyhathaway8823]

Hello Richard a question on queens what time of a queen do you think is her best productive life day her first year or age 1-2 years old or 2-3 years old etc or how often do you replace your queen’s . Thanks, Thanks, Thanks you

[@ejennings98]

Great Work! Its a complicated topic and you do it justice.

[@natserog]

You are a great teacher Richard! Thanks

[@richardnoel3141]

thank you, just sharing the facts I found hard to learn. we can all benefit from each others wisdom.

[@gregrae6685]

I am a bee keeper but I have only started in January 2020 when you remove the lava and royal jelly and place it into the cup then you place the cup on the frames and place them in the hive what stopes the lava and Kelley from falling out.

[@josephwoodall832]

Hello Richard I wonder what you might think of putting in a strip of apivar when making up my nucs and adding the queen cell?

[@richardnoel3141]

Never tried it, but you risk affecting the queen. Apivar is a hard treatment! It’s also expensive! Your better off trying Oxyalic acid before she starts laying. Then you get most of your phoretic mites.

[@josephwoodall832]

@@richardnoel3141 thank you

[@williamsouthey964]

Hi Richard, thanks for your videos, they very informative. I notice that you say you can recombine the colony on day 5 once the cells are capped. You also say that you remove the cells after 24 hours to put them in finishers. My question is, is there any reason not to combine the colony after 24 hours instead of 5 days and use the original colony as a finisher after 24 hours?

[@richardnoel3141]

William Southey hi William. The reason you may not combine them after 24 hours is you may want to put in the next load of cells. That’s the beauty of this system. You can raise one batch and use the original set up as the finisher, or you can use the cell builder colony to raise several loads of cells on subsequent days that you distribute to strong finishers. The last load you run if you use it to run many loads would be about after 6 runs. Then this lady run is the one you would combine and use the colony as the finisher! It’s really your choice on how many cells you want to raise and what resources you have! Hope this answers your question? Regards, Richard.

[@williamsouthey964]

Ok, great. Thanks for replying. I only want to do one run so I'll combine the colony again after 24 hours. I was just wondering if there is a reason you mention only combining the colony after 5 days again once cells are capped, but if 24 hours will work I dont see why I need to wait for the cells to be capped to recombine. Sorry if I'm a little unclear or pedantic, I'm going to do my first attempt at queen rearing and just wanted clarity on how soon I can recombine the colony. Thanks again

[@richardnoel3141]

William Southey your correct to ask.24 hours is fine, just remember if you put a lot of cells through , they will reduce the number of finished cells down to around 40, if the cell builder is strong at the start. If you distribute them to individual finishers you may have stronger cells finished (I put 14 , one cell bar, in each finisher) If you just use the main starter and ressemble it, be sure to only graft a max of about 40, otherwise if they do finish all the cells, done may have less royal Jelly than they possible could have! Remember it’s all in the Jelly!!

[@williamsouthey964]

Thanks Richard, I'm going to do 30 so should be fine. Thanks for your help and input!

[@grounded7362]

Richard, With your follower boards being a frame filled in, do you have any trouble with bees going in behind them, between the box and the follower and building comb or causing any trouble?

[@richardnoel3141]

Grounded generally no, just respect the bee space at all Times and if necessary use a sheet of fresh foundation somewhere when your cells go in the boxing you have a flow on. This keeps the wax builders occupied!!

[@gregmonaghan]

Richard - great stuff. I am just beginning beekeeping but am keen to rear my own queens. I have seen several videos by Michael Palmer and have been impressed by him too. I have two questions - 1. How do you manage your drones for mating? 2. How do you "store" the queens until they are used/sold? Surely if you put them in a small mating nuc they will expand fast and over crowd it?

[@richardnoel3141]

Hi , you can help augment The drones by several ways, all described towards the end of the first video “ the cell builder explained” re the queens yes, you can “bank” them For a little while but you Really need to get them In to nucs or mini mating nucs. Once their mated and start to Lay you can remove some of the brood to Manage the population so their less likely to swarm or abscond! But it’s all a juggling act! Hope this helps and good luck!!

[@Bobcagon]

I have a question regarding queenless and queenright. I understand the methodology and its format. In my quest to have a question answered as to why the need to have a queen right finisher, I think I may have missed the answer. Is it not possible to leave the grafts in the stater boxbrimming over with nurse bees? Some people online say that using only the "emergency " method to create queens does not get the best quantity/quality results. Others have said the opposite. I get it about the supersedure /swarm condition and the need for a queen to be present. What are your thoughts on simply using the starter box for a finisher. As long as it has a ton of nurse bees? Is the queen neccessary in order to get better quality grafts?

[@richardnoel3141]

ro boto you can use any method you like, this method combines the swarming impulse and the emergency response, you get technically emergency cells, but their the same as swarm cells because yes, you did initiate that response but also You made sure the colony was packed with food and resources so they couldn’t do anything but draw up really good cells full of Royal Jelly! It all comes down to what works best for you!!!! You should try both methods. The swarm box starter is the same as the queen right finisher in many ways! Just queens absent or in different places! We use a queen right colony for finishing because the queen is laying in to cells beneath the queen excluder but also the nurse bees in that colony are feeding young larvae! When their in feeding mode it’s no Problem for them to finish other cells, worker brood, queen cells, it’s no different to them Once the cels are started they automatically finish them!!

[@Bobcagon]

Right , OK thanks for that Richard. Great videos. Almost impossible for one to fail with so much info.

[@richardnoel3141]

ro boto very kind thank you, but just make sure you get the queen or allthe queens out! That’s the only problem done have had other than not enough bees, is a rogue virgin going in! Check out my other video called the cell builder explained, questions and answers. It’s got a lot of info there too! Thanks for your questions!!🙌

[@tudorherbertwickremasinghe5524]

It's a question..from Srilanka, Colombo..the colony is about8 mths now ,they dont carry pollen ,there are about5 small combs some have new caps. Is it without a queen? I dont want to disturb, colony reducing daily . Tw

[@richardnoel3141]

You need to look at the colony. The only to know is to know the facts. If it is queenless you might be able to help the colony by adding a new queen. Good luck.

[@gregrae6685]

You remove the queen cell from the frame and place the queen cell into the cup then put it on the frame and into the hive upside down . When the queen hatches you grab the queen and put her into a cage.

[@richardnoel3141]

greg rae no we graft a larvae in to a cup, put it in to a hopelessly queenless colony then wait 10 days. You may find this difficult to understand if your not a beekeeper?

[@macgates9578]

Thanks for the info made up the cell builder and grafted 8 cells 4 took as of day 2 think I'll let them get finished there and once capped put them in nukes then start another batch

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

More videos!

[@viklund2725]

i am go for a try tomorrow

[@richardnoel3141]

Good luck!!

[@newrosschap]

Hey Richard, great Q&A, and I really enjoyed the Cell Builder video. You have a way of cutting through the bull which is refreshing. Here in New Zealand the cloake-board method is often used, I'd like to know your opinion on this method and how it compares with your seperate builder and finisher style method.

[@richardnoel3141]

Hi Jason, ok well like i say, you must find a method that works for you. however. i find the cloak board a little messy and not as clean cut.(just my opinion) Strictly speaking its very similar, like lots of methods because essentially your creating an area with an already strong colony that has compartment that becomes hopelessly queen less when you slide in the draw above the queen excluder (cloak method) so if it works for you, then i say use it. My whole objective here is to try and also help folks underside a little of the biology of whats actually happening during the process of making a hive hopelessly queen less. understand that and you can do anything in any configuration that works for you., whether your raising 3, 30 or 300 cells this can do all that and you get to use the bees again afterwards. No resources are wasted if you understand the options.

[@newrosschap]

Yes Richard, I hear where you're coming from. I see that you're trying to pass on the fundamental concepts rather than profess particular methods. I did find the cloak board a bit messy because in order to entice the nurse bees up above the queen excluder initially, I had to leave a few frames of brood up above the excluder, but then once the board is in and it's time to drop the grafts in, the brood is supposed to be removed from top box, and I just found it a bit overwhelming with such a massively strong box to try and re-shuffle the box so there was no open brood left in it, and to ensure there was honey and pollen beside the grafts.. though I dare say I could get it to work great for me if I learn from my mistakes and give a second or third go. The grafts I did manage to successfully raise queens from this year were done in a 5-frame nuc box which was starter and finisher in one. I definitely noticed that they ended up with less cells than they initially accepted. You pointed out about distributing the cell bars to various hives for finishing so as to avoid them tearing down excess cells. In that regard, I suspect the same problem might occur in using the cloake-board method because one hive is expected to finish all which they started. have you ever checked out the NZBEES.NET forum? I think you would love it. it's very professionally set up and search feature works well. lots of experience and activity on there.

[@richardnoel3141]

Jason Kelly thanks Jason will have a look! Thanks for your reply!!

[@newrosschap]

cheers Richard! yeah no hassle mate. That site is pretty epic I think you'll agree :) I just spent my birthday marking queens and adding varroa treatments. I'm pretty sure that counts me as obsessed lol. I was telling my associate about your starter method, and distributing the accepted cells etc. looking forward to making some fat ones next spring. Getting ready for winter here. I've left my bees with heaps more honey than they need, so they'll be happy. I got my fair share too. busy times for you at the moment, hope it all goes well for you the spring build up. any swarm traps out?

[@newrosschap]

cool ill give you a message sometime soon cheers

[@stephenchilcott1595]

Awesome video... really helped me get the "AHA" moment. Only problem for me is that I only have 1 hive after last winter, and its not all that strong but I'm supplementing it to try to boost it. It is currently set up with two ten frame brood boxes and a super on top. Do you think if I just tried to put a queen excluder above my lower brood box (make sure queen is down there first) and then set the top brood box up to graft that it would work even though its not a "Cell builder"? I just don't have enough bees to make a "cell builder". My thought is to try to split my hive into a few nucs and try to get them built up before winter... is this even a good idea? Thanks for any and all advice!

[@richardnoel3141]

Stephen Chilcott thanks for your comments and your problem Isn’t unique. You probably would be better making walk away splits this year because you really need more than say two or three colonies to make it worth while. Sorry to hear about your losses. So many have suffered this winter. You can try just making a cloak board up and sliding that between the two but it’s no different to shaking out the brood box in to an empty hive and adding some grafts. You using the same principle. The emergency response. The problem you have is, what can you do with the cells. You will have only a few nucs to put all your cells in. I understand your frustrated ! Best of luck!

[@stephenchilcott1595]

Richard, thanks so much for the response and advice to not try getting over ambitious. Two weeks ago I added pollen sub and 1:1 syrup, the hive is still 2 deeps and a honey super on top. Yesterday I opened it up and it's thriving, not packed with bees, but definitely full. On the bottom of the top deep there was 1 swarm cell, that had no egg or larvae (that I could see) and it was obviously not capped. Do you think I should a) wait to find an egg in that cell, find the queen, put her in the bottom, and pull off that top deep that has plenty of bees and brood (capped and uncapped) and just move that and start it as its own hive. b) Take the queen, bottom deep, and super and move that to a new location, leaving the colony with 1 deep to make its own queen. or c) something else? Sorry for such a basic question but I've watched hundreds of youtube videos heard a hundred opinions on it, just wanted to get your take. Thanks again!

[@johnarter7422]

Really good video I'm trying your method this year thanks john

[@mustaphaal4266]

سلام عملك جميل ومتقن شكرا عل مجهودك

[@beehinde]

Another great video with good explanations.

[@jamesnolan9651]

Richard, Great video. Very articulate explanation of the concepts! At 20:30 in the video you explain that you have loads of drawn comb because you are running cell builders. I may have missed it in you video but how do the cell builders produce drawn comb? Do you make them up with blank foundation or, do you trade out the drawn comb with foundation so they don't swarm?

[@richardnoel3141]

yes i dont make them produce comb but the do naturally because as well as nurse bees, you end up with a lot of wax builders. this interns means combined with the prolific amount of food and resources, you need to think ahead and give those wax builders something to build on, so i stick in frames of foundation. it all helps produce better cells.

[@grounded7362]

Richard I am trying to make sense of the timing of each step. Can you break thus down again fir me Grafting day comes and you graft and place the graft I to the starter hive. From graft day to removing started cells and placing in finish hive, how many days is it from graft day to moving to finisher hive? Also how long before graft day do prepare the starter hive? Do you do anything special with the finisher hive before placing the started cells in?

[@richardnoel3141]

Grounded hi, you can remove started cells from the starter 6 hrs after if you wish, but I wait untill 24 hours usually! Then add the next graft. You can do this 4 or 5 times then leave the last load of grafts in the builder to it can be used to finish the cells! Or just graft and on day 6 reassemble the colony and use it to keep the cells warm and looked after, ( above the excluder)) so you can yes, put your queen back underneath, remove the cells on day 10 from grafting! It’s so easy to use this method to suit your needs and the number of cells you need! Try it and you will see! Best of luck!

[@mokhtaribenkhelifa6099]

thanks you

[@jmeare23]

This is a lot of great information Richard. I got into beekeeping about 2 months ago because I had to remove a hive at my house and instead of killing them I decided to give them a new home on the back of the property in a new hive box. I would have never guessed in a million years that I would enjoy such a thing but it has brought me quite a bit of joy caring for them and learning how a hive lives and functions as a unit. Do you have any advice on how much of a population each single hive box should have before splitting or expanding?

[@rugggus]

Swarming is not as controllable as we'd like out to be. The best you can do is make sure the colony always has room to do whatever they need, but there is a balance to this as well, if you give them too much space when it is cold it will take from the heat produced and needed to keep the brood warm. Also as Richard showed, when adding a box take some frames from the box below to help them realize it belongs to their hive. Love to read that a new beek is enjoying the experience! Are you in a region where winters are cold and long?

[@konradrueb1567]

Great content .wealth of information !!

[@Simon.Forrester]

Another great video Richard, one question, when you do your second round of grafts in your cell builder, can you put them straight in or do you have to restock with more nurse bees/brood

[@richardnoel3141]

Hi Simon, it depends on what you do with the cell builder once you've done your graft, if you remove them after 24 hours like i do then you can put thought a second, third and fourth load though. The issue seems to come when you leave them in there until day 5 and reassemble the colony. Then remove them on day 10, then its wise to shake out the bees after harvesting, leaving the top box on after removing the frames. and restocking the box with 10 frames more of brood.(above the queen excluder) They will eventually slow down their cell drawing up capabilities, you can re energise the by adding more brood then making it hopelessly queen less again. its an on going cycle. hope this helps.

[@richardreid2059]

Awesome videos Richard. Two questions (sorry if you answered elsewhere). In your area, how many grafts go in the starter, and how many in your nuc finishers? Which day do you move the finished cells to the incubator? Coming to Vermont this summer?

[@richardnoel3141]

Hi Richard, ok i graft a normal amount say 14 x 4 when i am just making a standard amount of cell, to supply us with a few nucs and the continual ,mating of queens during the summer. when i need a lot i really graft double, so 14 x 4 x 2. (and run two cell builders or loads another up very closely timed to the first one) I dont get all the grafts accepted but i certainly get more accepted than i would do if i didn't graft the second frame. When doing the second frame, you need to remove the accepted cells as early as possible, 6 to 12 hours if possible, before the bees reduce the accepted cells down to around 40 to 50. thats what they always seem to do. You can move the cells to the incubator on day 6 as soon as their capped over or after, but the earlier you move them, the more vulnerable they are to getting knocked. You must treat them with great care and make the movement swift as you can. Its critical during the metamorphosis their not knocked.. Hope this answers your question? will message you re the other question, Richard.

[@madu_murni_peisir]

Masya Allah...nice Mr...thank you

[@andreweroh]

Is there a way I can get a copy of these two videos? The Cell Builder Explained series.

[@richardnoel3141]

i dont have a copy as of yet, but you can download them i am sure. their free to view, if you watch the adverts!! lol

[@tasosdegiannis7565]

hello Richard! when the first load of cells are capped after 5 days can we put another load in? keeping the frame with the capped cells in another position in the cell builder until say day 10 when they are almost ready to be used? and if we can do that would you please tell me what to do with the queen right section for these 10 days? u are doing a great job trying to pass your knowledge and experience in a very kind way.

[@richardnoel3141]

Tasos Degiannis your better off removing the first started cells after 24 hours , then removing them to a finisher. Then your cell builder becomes hopelessly queen less again whilst it’s still in building mode. You will get cells built on day six if you put in another load but the response from the bees isn’t usually as good! Give it a try! If you put successive grafts in to the biilder, you can get many many cells accepted and just distribute these to strong finishers. You can get 200 cells easily if you work it right! good question ! Thanks, best of luck

[@godsstandards]

How do you obtain grafting larva? Do you use a timing box? I think Michael Palmer calls it a grafting box. Do you have any videos about that?

[@richardnoel3141]

No i dont purely because I've never had and real problem in finding larvae the correct age, but it would still help me i agree its a great idea and is another tool to grafting efficiently

[@stevesoutdoorworld4340]

Thanks Richard love your vids keep making!

[@jimix323]

Hey Richard, what's your method to prevent your colonies from swarming during the flows when you don't take out bees and brood?

[@richardnoel3141]

My main method is changing queens at the end of the second year. As a professional now, I find its impossible to be able to carry out swarm prevention methods with all colonies, at all times of the year. However, correct supering giving bees space as they run out of it, is critical. In some years here we have a lot of swarming, in others, a lot less. We know when swarming will peak and at the end of our two main flows is when we harvest and make splits, which goes a ,long way to reducing the swarming impulse. For me though, requeening at the end of every second full season goes a long way to keeping the colonies strong with less swarming. If you have time, there are numerous ways and specific methods you can use to try and stop the queen going but in reality there just not possible or practical when your managing large amounts of colonies. knowing your flows well with timely management of supering is hugely important.

[@jamalkrima3901]

Good luck

[@DanSebastianEcobici]

Mulțumesc !

[@richardnoel3141]

Dan Sebastian Ecobici foarte binevenit. vă dorește bine pentru anul 2019.

[@DanSebastianEcobici]

Now I see that I answered in my native language. Thancks for videos! I find you when I was looking at Michael Palmer's clips.

[@Imkerei2024]

I see you paint last month your hives can you tell how you do it with which stuff

[@richardnoel3141]

I use a uk product called Ronseal 5 year wood stain. easy to apply and it doesn't crack or peel, also water based.

[@TORALOLA]

I've discovered you about 1 week ago Richard ! I simply love your channel! Here's another guy you might like kzbin.info/door/duK0msE3WLOIum0A-Yn_RA. Can you please tell me when is the best time to write to Keld for a queen breeder for F1 queens ? Respectfully, Daniel from Romania

[@richardnoel3141]

Daniel Crisan hi , thanks for your kind comments. You need to contact keld through his website or on Facebook a d keep mailing him! You should look at a minimum of an island mated queen to Give good F1’s ! I know he has some available still: buckfast.dk/index.php/en/home ! If you need contact me on Facebook messenger or Instagram to talk further! He has a Facebook site too! facebook.com/Buckfast-Denmark-168775216524662/ Hope this helps!