Two Trees SK1 - Just Another Mediocre 3D Printer? Or Is There More To It?

[@SirTools]

I've had the SK1 here for a few months now and it fits our print farm needs with that side loading set up. Excellent first layer every time and zero issues with it out of the box. My only real wish would be a bigger build plate 325mm x 325mm GOOD review by the way. 🤠

[@TomsBasement]

Oh ! I recognize that Orca Slicer profile, I made it 😝

[@jenspaschmann7906]

Interesting, but I wonder why I should buy this printer when I can get a P1P for only a little more, which has already been tried and tested thousands of times, prints excellently and whose manufacturer has good support. The price would have to be significantly lower to be interesting. If TT had started with a 300 mm print bed, they might have been able to compete with BambuLab. But not so far.

[@bucurionutrusu3260]

buy a p1p

[@monkeywrench1951]

I would pay the extra $100 just not to have to do the z-offset. The only objection to bambulab is having to upload my models through their servers in China.

[@ficeto]

buy p1p

[@yeroca]

Everything being open source is a big advantage for me.

[@bucurionutrusu3260]

@@yeroca depends if you want a project or a tool

[@igorchyk09]

Thank you for the review! I’m waiting for my own to be arrived from China in a few weeks, and I hope they’ll fix the major issues with hardware.

[@papplemyapple]

Had a couple minor issues with my SK1 but the support has been surprisingly helpful compared to other chinese companies but definitely not on the level of Bambu/Prusa. I don't think I would recommend this to a straight beginner, only someone who wants to tinker with klipper for the best experience. Overall really enjoying the speeds and quality this can crank out, added a couple aux cooling fans and can now print cleanly well over 200mms on outer walls at a much quieter volume on the main part cooling fan. In order to get the camera working, you just need to ssh in to the printer and then start and enable the webcamd service, then it will work out of the box. As for the Z-Tilt failing, double check the Z screw couplers are very tight, if they are even slightly loose the grease on the leadscrew can cause it to slip, resulting in the Z-Tilt failures.

[@corlissmedia2.0]

The editing of this video is great!

[@3dr14ng4]

I also watched your previous KLP1 and I still bought the KLP1 anyway (March 3) however I received the newest iteration of KLP1 which they call the KLP1 230 which has the 230x230 bed, totally different and larger printer head which has an upgraded proximity sensor, extruder, slightly larger heatbreak heatsink, and different (improved) fan for part cooling.

[@The3Kway]

Wow this printer totally looks like something 3D printees have never seen before

[@wykonczeni]

Wearing out lead screw nuts will cause ugly layer lines with time because of those springs lifting up whole bed gantry. They should get rid of springs or mount them up side down to push gantry down more with gravity causing faster wear out 👌

[@kitcarlson6033]

Great review!

[@petercallison5765]

Enclosure kits and cameras are now available.

[@ficeto]

I own this abomination. Do not buy it unless you are a power user that can and will thinker with it. The shortcomings are so many that I often forget them all. 1. 3 fans in the head, yet only 1 is controlled. The rest are full on. 2. fans in the base are also full on, though plenty of headers are available on the main board 3. fast printer with horrible nozzle our of the box. Buy a CHT clone for bambu style hotend 4. cable to the hotend is way too thin for powering everything that is there (36W heater + 24W motor + fans) 5. to remove the PTFE from the hotend, you need to disassemble it's front cover (cutting bigger hole in the plastic helps) 6. The drag chain will cause the cable to the hotend to die prematurely from bending (and being way too thin wires) 7. The power supply is 14A max, but that is way not enough for everything that is on-board (7A motors + 2A heater + 15A heated bed) 8. The LCD is pure garbage. Half of the time does not even recognize the printer as ready 9. The klipper (and all other) are very old and cut down versions, while the storage on the (MKS made) board is only 8GB (for OS and all) 10. Only rollers and no idlers? 11. Main board is based on China-only microcontroller that is not supported by mainstream Klipper, so good luck updating your firmware 12. OS is locked, though not hard to hack into, but then all is so limited that it makes little point 13. I am sure I am forgetting a few more here Oh and my machine came with broken Z nut on one axis and two of the screwrods bent out of the frame. Took them two months to send replacement. After replacing all electronics and new idlers/rollers, all I need now to do is install endstops to get aways with this horrible sensorless homing. Machine is moving in upwards of 800mm/s and printing without artifacts with 400mm/s+. Acceleration on X can go up to 36K, but only 14K on Y (heavy axis and extruder)

[@QuellicheilMarza]

this is what i should have read before buying... mine has layer shifting while printing torture toaster... any clues? bel tension? the cube and benchy looks fine, but mine came with loose bolts in the z rods, something that i should have immediately adressed as poor qc... but still, it's my 3r printer after a delta predator, looks super fast, maybe the eu version has better cabling? also came with firmware 2.0 so works fine over there. thanks a lot anyway, have a nice day

[@Antixo]

Hello!