Riding Mower Electric PTO Clutch Won't Engage When Hot Problem Fix

Riding Mower Electric PTO Clutch Won't Engage When Hot Fix

[@charlier7959]

Six years later and you are still helping people. Thanks!

[@exinanition2307]

Thank you, sir. It is so nice to find a “how-to” video made by someone who actually knows “how-to!” Great job.

[@M.Tanner]

Same problem: I rode my tractor up a ramp and reached under and just tried the 1/4 turn on all 3 nuts and is working like a charm. Took 10 minutes and did not have to take anything apart - praise the Lord! Thanks for the video!

[@wyattrosner3895]

This is just what I was going to ask, I'll try this approach first as well!

[@M.Tanner]

@@wyattrosner3895 I have mowed at least 6-7 times since I made the adjustment without any issues. Thankful! BTW - If I had the feeler gauges, I believe I could have used them since everything was "right there".

[@rollinred5785]

Excellent video. Just bought a used crafstman dyt4000 first time I used it today blades worked for about 10 minutes and shut off. After watching, tightened all three nuts one turn and did the whole lawn with no problems. Blades cycle on and off hot! Thank you very much!

[@davidnatter]

Thank you very much for this video. I had this exact problem on my JD LX-170 and I was able to fix it in a short amount of time and for no money! The clutch was from Warner- I emailed them and they got back to me the next day saying that the proper gap for this clutch was 12/1000.

[@amfpvt]

Thank you. So simple. Intermittent failure of blades engaging fixed with 3 x 1/4 turns ... Unbelievable. Thanks again!!

[@captjimMcintyre]

Thanks for the great repair video; you are a great teacher and mechanic--KUDOS!

[@jerrym2321]

My problem exactly on my Hustler walk-behind! Gonna try the fix as shown. Thanks Steve.....saved me $200!

[@preston7795]

this is all true, i have done this as well BUT this is a temporary fix. I have a mowing business and go through this process with my cub every 2 weeks. This is a sign that you should start looking for a new clutch. Great video for new people though! Dixie Chopper is more pricey but i own a Dixie and a Cub, the Cub cuts the nicest but the Dixie cuts almost as good but is 100 times easier to fix and replace parts.

[@2stage90]

Thank you! I have the same tractor and did your video today. I didn't take the deck off though and could do it while on the tractor. It worked great! Thank you again.

[@tallrogers]

Thanks for the video! I was able to fix the clutch on my 1990's Troy Bilt 16 Hydro without having to remove it. Took only 15 minutes.

[@chrisbarbot9551]

I have a Dixon 0 turn and it started blowing fuses had no idea till I watched your video . I followed the wiring from the switch and found another wire connection so I went to take it apart and it felt loose so I cleaned it and sprayed a lil wd40 in the terminals and it fixed it . Thank you for sharing it helped me a lot and I think my little guardian angel helped me too. Thank you so much

[@logan214]

Thanks for the video Steve O, I have a Toro Z turn and the PTO just cut out today while cutting my lawn halfway through. I hear a noise when I engage so I'm thinking this clutch fix will do the trick. Thanks for the help.

[@mikeleonard2038]

Thank you Stephen, I am very grateful for the effort you have made to make this video, this helping people like me. I no longer have to wait for my mower to cool down! You fixed my mower! Thanks again.

[@stephenormsby3662]

You are welcome Mike, glad it helped you out!

[@markristau1783]

Very nice video! Thanks for the test light tip! Thank you so much for a steady camera!

[@ericcheng5792]

Followed your instructions to fix the PTO won't disengaged problem for my simplicity riding mower. It's running perfectly now. I thought I will have to purchase a new one. Thank you so much!

[@stephenormsby3662]

Eric Cheng Great. You are welcome. Glad it worked for you.

[@nickzigrang2664]

Good info, I didn't think it would be that simple. My Simplicity does the same thing. Gonna try this before buying a clutch

[@trouts4444]

Nice video Steve. Straight forward explanation and camera work.

[@stephenormsby3662]

+David Kirkpatrick Thanks! Hope it helped you out.

[@MNDashcam]

Great video. Great info. Thanks for sharing. I am working on a riding mower that my neighbor loaned me when it started having clutch troubles so this is very helpful.

[@magedelsariakoussy907]

Nate Sand is

[@magedelsariakoussy907]

Pi

[@claythomas9509]

Thank you. This is what mine is doing and now I can fix it!

[@mikebarnea4789]

Thank you for this video. I was set to buy a new clutch, didn't even know they were adjustable 👍

[@mcdaniellynda]

Very good video you’re a great teacher, thank you!

[@markehowie]

Thank you for the video. I have a Cub Cadet RZT with the same issue. Question: Why remove the PTO clutch? Why not just tighten while attached?

[@joeking9933]

Thanks , I learned Much = Semper Fi Pensacola Fl

[@togodbetheglory9725]

Is hard to find a mechanic that is willing to fix something like that. Nice video... mine mower clutch just quit on me...I hope with your video I'll be able to fix it

[@airik7777]

Great video. Thank you.

[@frisbeguy4]

Steve, thank you for such a speedy reply! The tractor has about 540 hours. Is it difficult to replace the PTO? It looks like only one bolt. I am afraid that the noise is going to get worse and the blades will not engage. To make matters worse, in 10 days I am supposed to go on vacation for two weeks to Colorado and my nephew and sister will be attempting to cut my 1.5 acres of grass. I am tempted to replace the PTO thinking the bearings are bad. I took an air compressor and really cleaned the area around the PTO, the high pitch noise, was not being heard as often. The noise is not present all of the time, that is the weird think. I will check your suggestions. I was wondering if, I take the belt off, will the PTO still engage and spin around, then I could troubleshoot it better. I am also thinking about the two pulleys below the PTO, maybe their bearings are bad.

[@rontegethoff]

Steve O! Just thought I would pass along my lawn tractor PTO experience. In my case the PTO was intermittent with the key on, engine off and all safety requirements met when I turned on the “engage” switch you would hear the clutch click about 30% of the time. The rest of the time the clutch would not engage and would almost never engage with the engine running. One time with the engine running I turned on the “engage” switch and the engine immediately died. I was about to start removing the clutch but as I was looking at disconnecting the clutch from the wiring harness I noticed a loose black wire next to the engine on the top side of the tractor frame. This wire traced back to the clutch. The end of the wire had a lock washer style grounding clip. When I touched the black wire to engine or frame ground the clutch would engage properly with the key on engine off and all safety requirements met and also with the engine running. Not finding where to ground this clip I scraped the paint off a hole that was not used on the tractor’s frame rail, bolted this ground clip to the frame rail and now the tractor mower deck engages reliably. This black wire was a third wire on the clutch but is not shown on my Craftsman schematic and most online images of the clutch do not show it. Just thought this may be something to check before tearing any deeper into clutch replacement/ Steve thank you for all your efforts to make these videos. I for one sure appreciate all you do.

[@stephenormsby3662]

RonTNJ Ron, Interesting. I don't recall ever seeing a clutch with three wires, but will definitely keep this in mind. Glad you were able to get yours working again. Thanks for the tip. Steve

[@danbasta3677]

Thank You for what i also was thinking. Lets face it folks, there are grounding wires on anything electricial when dealing with things of this nature, just as there are grounding straps that are on your tractor, or, I've also seen instances whare a bran new car or trucks lighting system won't work or, the lights are dim, due to a ground wire that isn't attached, or the area has to be scrapped clean of paint or debre and re-attached as well as securely tighten down for a good solid ground before it can work properly and efficently. Always be mindful of this when looking for, and trouble shooting equipment, start from the simple to the more complicated.

[@exinanition2307]

Thank you also for this tip. Knowledge truly is power!

[@suzieq8379]

is that what that click is, mine comes on most of the time, couldnt figure out why looks like a job to big for me :(

[@jerrym2321]

Problem solved! Thanks again Steve!!

[@stephenormsby3662]

Jerry-glad to hear it!

[@jimmysapien9961]

Great video and great information thank you so much

[@DansVlog]

Well done! Great video!! Going to follow your advice and send you some views and subscribers!

[@suzieq8379]

thank you when I use reverse seems like it will not engage when hot, I appreciate your help

[@spiderstone]

Great instruction...thanks!

[@CraigArndt]

This is helpful, my pto was engaging but now it isn't. I just bought a trouble light this week, I will give this a try.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Craig Arndt Great. If you are not getting voltage to the clutch, check all the switches in your safety circuit. Seat switch, reverse switch, etc.

[@danbasta3677]

Steve O Yeah, this safty switch on the seat and the reverse thing is a real pain in the rear. In my International Harvester Cub Cadet tractor, had to get a new wiring harness put on the tractor, and you can't back up in reverse anymore without the PTO clutch shutting off and having to reengage the PTO clutch, ridculious. Just more stuff to wear out. This patten was designed from some idiot who didn't keep his kid from going near the tractor when he was operating it, and he also was stupid enough to not look behind him to notice his kid was behind him and he ran over his kid. Sad that this had happened, poor kid, however when you buy anything, especslly this zero turn radious junk they are now selling out there, which looks like it would flip you out of that thing, YOU MUST ALWAYS HAVE A HEALTHY RESPECT FOR THE MACHINERY AND KERP BOTH CHILDERN AND PETS AWAY FROM IT AT ALL TIMES. Read your manuals folks, and follow them to the letter.

[@jakeadams4556]

Hey Steve, I just recently purchased a Toro Z series 150 and it won’t cold start at all. Was told they don’t have adjustments for the PTO also, so I see you had one and was wondering if you had any advice for me thanks

[@applejacks971]

Great video. My blades fire up when I start the motor and the pto knob has no effect. The amp gauge moves when I pull the pto knob out, but the blades are already engaged. I thought the pto switch was bad, but looking like it might be the clutch itself. I never thought of that til I seen this video! My clutch is stuck in the engaged mode....grr!

[@jimksa67]

thanks a lot! Needed that- yu are a professional! and I ar a mackanick :)

[@freedomfighter1000]

Excellent! Thank you...

[@robertyearian227]

Nice job very clear explanations

[@rcgold7079]

Yes nice video. What is it about the heat factor that pointed to a PTO adjustment? The heat did what exactly?

[@markpatoka]

Exactly my question, why is this a problem and why is this the solution? I have a Craftsman doing the same thing

[@jeffb5463]

Excellent Video!

[@railroadjim]

Thank you for posting the video. The PTO clutch on my Cub RZT50 has been experiencing this same problem, where it won't re-engage once it is hot. It has also been pulling a large amount of current, bringing down the battery voltage when the PTO is engaged. Hopefully adjusting the PTO gap as you show will help fix both of these issues.

[@kentuckycowboy2]

Did a PTO take care of yours My 1720 just started this last week and it became a problem today so I'm here looking for a known before I jump on the clutch..

[@railroadjim]

+kentuckycowboy2 I had to buy a new PTO clutch as my resistance readings were really bad. I bought an Xtreme Outdoor Power Equipment PTO with billet pulley fron eBay. Works like a champ now.

[@railroadjim]

+kentuckycowboy2 I had to buy a new PTO clutch as my resistance readings were really bad. I bought an Xtreme Outdoor Power Equipment PTO with billet pulley fron eBay. Works like a champ now.

[@railroadjim]

+kentuckycowboy2 I had to buy a new PTO clutch as my resistance readings were really bad. I bought an Xtreme Outdoor Power Equipment PTO with billet pulley fron eBay. Works like a champ now.

[@kentuckycowboy2]

Thank you I was considering the same brand it's good to hear good things about them. I'm going to do the resistance check first to see where I'm at I suspect it to fail since I'm going negative 20 Amps or more when hot and engaged. If I can get it to engage at all.

[@lcagee]

Great video!

[@crocodile7801]

Exactly what my Cub Cadet is doing and still does. Took to shop and they said it was the air gap and it worked for 2 mowings afterward and now it quits working after 30 minutes (when hot). Then let it sit for 15 minutes and it works again.

[@eggbert9645]

Thank you! This video was very helpful. I was on my way to buy a new clutch and was looking for what was involved with that when I saw this video and it worked like a charm.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Eggbert96 Awesome, glad it worked out for you!

[@frisbeguy4]

Steve, when I get home from work today I am going to attempt to troubleshoot the Cub Cadet. I will let you know what I find.

[@stevanrose7439]

Good to know. Thanks for the video.

[@southboundin2001]

ThAnks for sharing. Can the gaps be adjusted without removing clutch?

[@Tobbbi]

Thanks Sir, i'll try this out tomorrow......hopefully it works on my husqvarna mower. Belt was good, pto switch replacement did nothing... so we'll see

[@swathdiver489]

So how did it go? Ours started doing this today. Was going to adjust the clutch but then a weld on the deck broke! Always something!

[@1squit]

Great vid; I'm having the same issue.

[@frisbeguy4]

This is a great video for helping repair a Cub Cadet with PTO problems. On my Cub Cadet 2186, today, I started hearing a high pitch when I engaged the PTO. The tractor still cut the grass but the High Pitch got louder and at times quit. I don't know if the noise is coming from the PTO possibly a bearing or two going bad or from one of the pulleys below the PTO. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for your help!

[@stephenormsby3662]

David Groh It could be the PTO, but more likely a deck idler pulley bearing or deck spindle bearing. Try taking all the deck belts off and spinning all the spindles and idler pulleys by hand. If any spin hard or make a rattling or grating noise, replace them. If they all spin quiet and free, it could be the PTO clutch slipping (I have never seen this, but it is possible if the friction lining is worn way down or you are getting low voltage to the clutch due to a bad connection, etc.). Good Luck.

[@Scotty32355]

Good Job, Thanks

[@mrgrumpy5116]

very useful video thank you.

[@fullblastman]

Steve O, nice video but the bolt that holds on the pto should be torqed to proper tolerance mine was 55ft pounds. Otherwise you could wear out the clutch bearing or deform it with the impact.

[@ronaldwood6324]

I know this post is old but I'm have the " when hot " problem . Your video was good, easy to follow . However you did not say WHY this adjustment caused or was caused my heat ? What's the connection between what you did and heat ? slipping clutch ?

[@miketidwell9546]

The 5 amp standard PTO switch can be replaced with a heavy duty 10 amp switch from source on eBay t hat fixed my intermittent problem with blades disengaging when hot.

[@stevanrose7439]

Good to know. Thank you.

[@Fred-xh9ls]

thanks Steve O

[@tomm519]

FINALLY A GOOD VIDEO ON HOW TO ADJUST THE PTO on a garden tractor. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, Steve!!!!! Now I have a question. I had a repower done on my John Deere 420 when I got it back the front PTO fried in a short amount of time and I mean it melted the magnetic part of it. I found a replacement on Ebay at a good price and started to put the replacement back on then I noticed the two wire pigtail plug was also burnt so I ordered a new one from a guy in Florida on Ebay. My son and I installed the whole unit but I didn't know how to set the gap on the replacement. We cut two strips in the back yard and I could smell the burning smell from that PTO and had my son turn it off right away. Then we started checking voltage. With the pigtail removed from the electrical system my son put the meter on the wire end leading from the switch and we got nothing with the tractor off. When I started the motor and the PTO still disconnected we got a little under 14 volts. After watching your video, I would have to say something is wrong with the electrical system. What is the problem? This is the same blue wire that was originally connected to the original PTO that was running right with the old motor but now it's burning up the PTOs. Why? Where is my problem? Now that I know how to adjust the PTO I will do that also but I need to know what the wiring problem is. Thank you for your help ahead of time. Sincerely, Tom.

[@tomm519]

I have to add when we checked the voltage each time I engaged the PTO switch both times. I don't want to confuse anyone.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Tom, Sorry to hear that you are having problems. Here are some potential problems and how to test: 1) Your deck is jammed somehow. A stick under the deck, belt not routed correctly, a seized blade spindle or idler pulley-take the belt off and make sure that all the pulleys on top of the deck rotate freely. If not, fix the problem. 2) System voltage is too high-check the battery voltage with a meter with the engine running and the PTO off and then with it engaged. If it over 15 volts your voltage regulator may be bad and you could be getting too much current into the PTO coil. 3) A (partially) shorted out PTO coil-with the engine OFF and the key in the RUN position, sit on the seat and engage the PTO. Wait a couple minutes and see if the smell comes back. If it does, the clutch coil is partially shorted out. 4) PTO brake is staying on when the PTO is engaged. Normally when the PTO is off, the brake in the unit is ON to stop the blades in case of emergency. When the PTO is engaged, the clutch engages and the brake is released. If the brake is not releasing (due to mis-adjustment or other problem) you will get the burning smell as the clutch and brake are fighting each other-take the unit off the crankshaft, but leave it wired to the switch. With the PTO off, the pulley should be hard to turn relative to the clutch housing. Wit the PTO engaged, the pulley should spin freely relative to the housing. My vote is for #1 Question-was the PTO you bought on eBay new or used?

[@tomm519]

The PTO I bought was used with 400 hours on it. Now that I've taken off the PTO and checked the gap it rattled like crazy and the gap was at least three times further apart than it should be. The same when I checked the PTO that was burnt up. I should have checked the gap on the first one to start with but until I saw your video I didn't know how to do it. My son and I checked the voltage to the PTO both with the wires disconnected from it. When turned on and motor not running we get 12 volts and with the motor running I get about 14 volts. That should be normal, right? I've run out of time to put the PTO back on again. I should be able to install it tomorrow to check to see if I get the burning smell again. I'll give you an update when I do get it back on. There is nothing on the deck that would keep the spindles from turning.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Your voltage sounds good. Keep me posted. Regards, Steve

[@stephenormsby3662]

This may be informative as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sIWYe2ugjc6dgtk

[@gbrsr]

Very good video, helped me a lot. One question, if I don't have a feeler gauge, can I get the nuts too tight on the studs? I repeated this 1/4 turn several times and am able to run the PTO for a few minutes at a time, but it still quits when it's hot. Thanks again for the detailed instructions!

[@stephenormsby3662]

Gabe, Thanks for watching. It sounds like your gap may still be too large. If you don't have access to a feeler gauge, you can cut a 1/2" wide strip off of a business card and use that. The ones I have are right on 0.012" thick. Don't tear the strip off as this may give you a false reading. Slide the strip in the gap and then tighten the nuts until you feel drag when you try and slide the card in and out in each of the three positions. And YES you CAN get the nuts too tight. This will result in the clutch and brake fighting each other and wearing out your clutch/brake linings very quickly. Good luck.

[@gbrsr]

Awesome, thanks Steve O!

[@woodrage1]

Man this saved me money. Thing just quit. Never thought it was because of heat. Clutch is is only 4 years old. Never adjusted it before.

[@stephenormsby3662]

CAUTION: DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLUTCH RETAINING BOLT WITH AN IMPACT AS SHOWN IN THE VIDEO. CLUTCH RETAINING BOLTS SHOULD BE TORQUED TO MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS SO AS NOT TO DAMAGE THE INNER RACE OF THE BEARING, POTENTIALLY CAUSING PREMATURE CLUTCH FAILURE.

[@JodBronson]

+Steve O - Pinned this comment so it will be on " Top Always ", so People can read this when they see this Video :)

[@stephenormsby3662]

Thank you!

[@ronaldferrell292]

I had same problem I sprayed with brake cleaner and has worked ever since

[@kkauka]

How do you raise your mower to such an almost upright position? Chain hoist ? I have been struggling with a JD clutch that has bad bearings, and after taking it out I see that the clutch gap is way more than .012. It needs replacing anyway. Also have read articles about 'burnishing' a new pto clutch (slow rpm, engage for a minute on/off several times), do you find that necessary or helpful? Also during research it seems that it is recommended to engage the pto clutch at low rpms to reduce wear. True? Thanks.

[@stephenormsby3662]

+Davey Jones Yes, I have a hoist from the ceiling. Works great and gives full access under the mower. Sorry, I'm not up on the burnishing, but would recommend engaging and disengaging at low engine RPMs to save wear on the clutch/brake pads. Good luck.

[@vicr4964]

Jp did u ever figure out the problem? I'm having the same issue.

[@redavis1973]

Awesome tutorial the only problem I seen was using the white cable ties because they are more of an indoor use tie & using them in this application may cause them to fail.. I always use the black cable ties on anything exterior because they have a greater UV protection value & are made for exterior uses.. (Sorry for nitpicking but I used to use the white in exterior electrical panels until I noticed they started to become brittle & crack after a year or so but since switching to the black I haven't noticed any problems)

[@stephenormsby3662]

redavis1973 Good tip. Thanks!

[@SKIPSTRUCKs]

John Deer ZTrack 737 Stalls Hi Steve, if you copy the preceding link into youtube , this video is my problem exactly. unfortunatly i cant get a reply on how he fixed the problem. I have cleaned and dielectricd all the safty connections. It doesnt mater if its hot or cold cluth engaed or not. when it begins to die sometimes moving the control levers or brake or disingaing the clutch will allow it to repower most of the time ,not. what should i try? mine is a 777 w/27 kawo. thanks for yourhelp Skip ps it also doesnt start as fast as i think it should, its like the one in the video mine has a 72 inch deck and the clutch was replaced about 200 hrs ago and the fuel pump about 25 hs ago clutch gets very hot has crinkled the decal.but i do serios mowing. machine only has 650 hours.

[@evanstauffer4470]

The installation instructions which came with my replacement clutch were very specific to **not** use an impact wrench to tighten the bolt. Use a torque wrench. In the case of my clutch, torque the bolt to 55 ft-lbs. Yours may vary (check your service manual.)

[@robeftyearian8760]

Dang it man didn't know about that one tganks

[@batex3]

Thanks Steve O your video is 2 years old and still helping people! I had the same problem on my 1525 and have ignored it for a while. But now the problem is the blades won't shut off! Can't find any info about that. Do you think it is the same problem?

[@stephenormsby3662]

It sound like the PTO switch may be bad.

[@batex3]

Steve O thank you. I adjusted the pto like you showed in the video. Mine is a 1525. Couldn't find specs for that gap but went with your .012 gap (mine was measuring over .050). So thanks for posting that I never would have tried it without your video! Even changed my worn drive belt while I had that off. Still have the problem blades won't shut off. The PTO switch is testing good, and I have voltage at the pto electrical connector. Anything else I should try? Maybe just replace the switch anyway and see what happens.

[@stephenormsby3662]

If your blades are not shutting off, try unplugging the PTO clutch connector. If the blades keep rotating with the PTO unplugged, then the problem is with the clutch and not in the electrical circuit. I am guessing that the 0.012" gap may be too small for your particular clutch. Try going with 0.025" and see if that works. Good luck.

[@batex3]

Hey Steve O finally got a chance to get it done. You were right on, problem was with the clutch. Ordered a replacement from Amazon. Took a couple weeks but it came yesterday and I put it in. Everything as good as new! Still wondering about that gap, the new one measured 3 different gaps. Thanks again for all your help!

[@rossanderson3430]

batex3 .

[@dubduap]

Grettings from Spain Steve, and thanks so much for your video, which served to fix my Grillo climber mower. However, I´m still having trouble, as it seems my battery drains after a few hours of use, up to the point that It cannot start the motor anymore. Any suggestions about what the problem might be? perhaps still linked to the PTO clutch? Any suggestions if anything can be done? Thanks so much for your help!!

[@stephenormsby3662]

JP Tunante You are welcome. Do you need to charge the battery between mowings? It is possible that your charging system is not working. When mowing, the PTO and anti-backfire solenoid on the carburetor (if present) draw down the battery. Normally, the charging system makes up for this and also replaces the charge used by the starter motor. In order to charge the battery the alternator must raise the voltage of the battery to force electrons back into it. The nominal voltage on a fully charged 12 volt lead acid battery is 13.6 volts. If your voltage is the same with the engine on and off, your battery is not being charged when the mower is in use and the voltage will eventually drop to the point where the starter motor will quit working. You should be at least at 13 to 15 volts with the engine running at mowing RPM if the charging system is working. Let me know what you find. Regards, Steve

[@dubduap]

Thanks so much. I will try to test the voltage when mowing and see what you suggest. Also I´ve starting the motor with the help of a car battery to read later somewhere that you´re not supposed to do so since it wrecks the charging system for not being compatible, is that so? Thanks!

[@stephenormsby3662]

JP Tunante You don't need to be mowing to perform the voltage test. Just check the battery voltage with the engine off and then again with it running at at least half throttle. If is does not go up, the charging system is not working properly. I have heard rumors about possible damage from jump starting, but have never witnessed it.

[@dubduap]

Steve O Hi again Steve. I finally managed to test the voltage while motor running and just as you said voltage stays around 12 volts , so i guess the battery is being sucked by the PTO and not recharged.How would you suggest to proceed? Thanks !!

[@stephenormsby3662]

JP Tunante I would go in this order: 1) Make sure the connections on you battery cables are clean on each end. 2) Check the seating of all plug in connectors in the electrical wiring harness. Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting them can clear up a problem with a bad connection. 3) Check for any fuses to see if they are blown. Replace as necessary. 5) Check the output of your alternator by unplugging it from the wiring harness and checking the voltage coming out of the coil to ground with a voltmeter set to AV volts. It should be around 20 to 40 volts. If your alternator voltage is OK and you system has a voltage regulator it may need replacing. Some simpler systems have a diode that converts the AC voltage from the alternator to half wave DC to charge the battery instead of a voltage regulator. If the diode opens up, your battery will not charge. The diode is usually built into the wire that goes from the stator coil under the flywheel to the battey or ignition switch. 6) If you alternator is not outputing voltage you may need a new stator coil or the magnets inside your flywheel may have come loose.

[@rontegethoff]

Steve O! Let me pass along the original Craftsman Part #108218X the Substitution Part #142600 and there was definitely a third smaller gauge black wire with a ground lug crimped on the end coming from the clutch. The photos of the replacement clutch did not show the third wire I cannot figure out what the purpose is but when I grounded the lug everything worked great.

[@stephenormsby3662]

RonTNJ Thanks Ron!

[@danbasta3677]

Amazing how designs change. My PTO clutch is in the front of my International Harvester Cub Cadet tractor. All these new ones have the PTO clutch underneath the tractor. The same goes with my Power King tractor, the PTO clutch is also mounted in the front of the tractor, not underneath the tractor. Personally, i feel it's a much better design on the front of the tractor instead of underneath the tractor.

[@daveb9370]

Dan Basta I have a Cub Cadet LT2138 with 16 hp thumper. It is mounted the same way - the output shaft is horizontal instead of vertical. I had to replace the SAM spark module and coil - what a pain with the grass guard and flywheel cover in the back mounted vertically, but not impossible. It is easier to get to the pto and the belt when removing/installing the deck.

[@danbasta3677]

Yeah Dave, i think I'm going to have to replace my power take off clutch on my 982 International Harvester Cub Cadet tractor. It's been in the tractor since it was new, many, many moon ago, as its an 80's tractor. Had to take out the Onan engine in it as it was getting tired and worn out, and Onan engines are extrrmely expensive to fix as they have been bought out by Cummins and they scrapped all the Onan engine line. Got a good old Kohler engine in it, bought it used and had it put into the tractor and she's been running good since. Had to replace the wiring harness with a 1806 newer wiring harness, and still have to check and see if maybe the wiring is pulled apart or something simple before going to the much complicated. Love this tractor, as it is the symbol of a tractor that was made by an excellent company, Internationsl Harvester. They sold the lawn and garden division off to MTD, machine tool and dye, and, well I don't knowm it just isn't the same anymore as the good old days when International Harvester had these beautiful gems. I'd say, when everything is working good, this tractor would mow just as good and even much better than those zero turn radius things everybody wants these days, this tractor chews up grass and spits it out like nothing and you have to at times hold it back on the hydrostatic gear lever and slow it back down, it mowes that good, runs that fast.

[@daveb9370]

Dan Basta Good luck with it. The old stuff can’t be beat - it’s rebuildable and built well. My biggest problem is mice chewing the wires, mostly where they are hard to get to. The mower mows great, goes uphill cutting no problem, never boggs down. I just can’t stand engineers and designers with no real world experience who have no common sense. They design for ease of assembly but forget about the guys who have to work on this stuff.

[@danbasta3677]

Agree with all your saying Dave, every word of it. You speak my language. Not sure what your equipment is, not up on the MTD stuff, just only like my International Harvester Cub Cadet tractors. Won't look at nor consider anything MTD, just won't. They, MTD, probably have or make the part that I will need, being the fact that they assumed responsibility for all Cub Cadet tractors, old and new, however, my International Harvester Cub Cadet tractor................

[@Towerwatson525]

Hello Stephen thank you for the video. i have a similar issue with a JD x300 that i've had for 12 years. It's fine when cold but intermittently will not engage when hot, although if i turn the engine off and back on again, it will engage? Would you consider this an air gap issue? Many thanks

[@stephenormsby3662]

Possibly-my recommendation would be to check the gaps with a feeler gauge. You may be able to do this without taking the clutch/brake off the engine, I'm not sure. Or you could just try turning each nut in about 1/3 turn and see if that makes a difference. Good luck

[@stephenormsby3662]

Note that your battery voltage goes up for a short time right after starting as the alternator is trying to make up for the charge used by the starter motor. This may cause just enough of a voltage rise to overcome the larger air gap in the clutch.

[@19Eleven71]

Good video

[@alphasxsignal]

Wow I thought it was hard to get to mine on my Groundmaster 120 by Toro. Mine is on the side. Im having a similar problem. Mine is a OGURA

[@popabook]

Great video! I am thinking that I may need to replace the PTO or at least the wire harness leading to it on my Dixon ZTR 4422. The mower runs great for a few minutes after engaging the blades but then dies after warmed up. as long as i turn off the blades the mower will restart but same problem happens again after I engage the blades; it dies after a couple minutes of mowing.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Does the engine die or do the blades shut off after the few minutes?

[@tomasetas]

+Steve O my cub cadet 2166 has the same problem I think. After mowing for several minutes the blades sound like they are not turning as fast as they should. it also sounds like the PTO maybe engaging and then disengaging sporadically. A minute or so after this happens the engine will die. Can you offer any advice?

[@rudedawg5087]

+ Cletus I bought a 2166 new over 13 years ago and it's still going strong; my pto clutch appears to be the non adjustable type and just wanted to ask what you found that was causing your issue just in case mine starts doing the same? Thanks, RP.

[@tomasetas]

Rude Dawg I had a spring that broke. There was a lever on the side of the deck and the spring attached to it and the other end attaches to the pulley system from the motor to drive the deck belt. I guess its a tensioner pulley spring? But that caused my problem and it was $5 to fix. Bought a spring at the local hardware store.

[@rudedawg5087]

Cletus Carroll Thanks for the tip. I checked the springs and did find the shoulder bolt had bent so after replacing all is well. Thanks, again.

[@stephenormsby3662]

You can test the PTO by applying 12 volts to the PTO connection.

[@williamcarl4200]

I so prefer levers and pulleys. Even with my drive systems.

[@ElonMuskX]

What if pto disengages it self after about 15 minutes of use and then will work again when it cools down? When the PTO does disengage it self there is no power too it. Ohms test of PTO reads 3.6

[@stephenormsby3662]

Any chance that the deck belt is jammed under an idler pulley or something? Frozen idler pulley bearing? Try taking the belt off and engaging the PTO and see what the engine does. If the engine still bogs the PTO would be at fault.

[@donweber2895]

Steve O I

[@jimspangenberg4976]

I have a 9 year old Cub Cadet 1045 with only about 250 hours on it and the PTO engages but the mower bogs down on thicker grass when it used to chew right through it when the rig was new. I have changed the idler springs and the belt is only a couple of years old and it is a factory belt, so I am guessing a worn clutch is the issue. Can the clutch be adjusted while it is still bolted to the mower? Thanks for the very helpful video. First purchase is a come-along so I can get my mower back on it's heels like your video. Thanks again!

[@stephenormsby3662]

Jim Spangenberg Jim-Yes a lot of them can be adjusted while still on the mower. I haven't seen cases of clutches slipping in the past, but it is certainly possible. It seems more likely that the belt is slipping. I assume that the blades are slowing down in heave grass, but the engine does not slow down correct?

[@jimspangenberg4976]

Steve O Thanks Steve, yes, the mower slows and boggs down (I also have it in Mulching mode) in heavy grass. (didn't do this during the first 3 seasons) My PTO seems easily accessible, but I see no adjustment screws on the PTO that can be adjusted from below. The belt might be slipping, and I am concerned that the factory belt seems to be much narrower than the pulley it rides in, but the dealer said that is by design, and that a wider belt would not fit correctly.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Jim Spangenberg Just to clarify-is the engine slowing down too when mulching heavy grass?

[@jimspangenberg4976]

Thanks for the follow up. The engine does not slow or bog, only the blade speed of the mower deck.

[@griegdibble2900]

Jim Spangenberg as

[@paulwatkins2601]

If the clutch is out of adjustment would it make make a rattling noise, if my friend starts his mower it rattles but stops rattling when PTO is engaged

[@stephenormsby3662]

Paul Watkins Not sure. I have not seen this, but it is certainly possible. Have him set the gap and see if it goes away. Good luck.

[@hrl930]

Hi Steve O, I am having problem when I engage PTO (Push down the PTO handle), there is no click sound and Blades are not spinning. Is this clutch problem? I have checked and tested the PTO switch is fine. I just took the cutting deck off for sharpen blades, and it was working fine prior to that. Anything I may have done wrong when taking off the deck?

[@stephenormsby3662]

A couple things to look at if you haven't got it working yet. Verify that the belt is installed correctly. Check to make sure that the electrical connector going to the PTO didn't come disconnected. Also, make sure you are sitting on the seat that that the transmission is not in reverse. Good Luck.

[@hrl930]

Steve O thank you for the advise. the PTO tensioner cord was connected to wrong place... don't know why I did that

[@phillsaska4899]

Is it possible to check the plate gap with the clutch still on the mower? Also, can the adjustment be done on the mower?

[@stephenormsby3662]

On some mowers this is possible. If you can get the feeler stock and socket up in there then you are good to go. Good luck.

[@g00glechr0me8]

PLEASE HELP I recently did the bypass for the seat switch and reverse switch. The bypass worked but the next time I went to mow my lawn the PTO switch would not work, the blades will not engage and I get a flashing icon on the screen regarding the PTO. Even though the bypasses work, now the blades won't engage...I checked the fuses and they are fine...do you have any ideas as to what I can do to get the PTO working? Thanks.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Did you try putting the wiring back the way it was? The computer may be programmed to detect bypasses.

[@riveraexal]

hey i got 2008 whiteoutdoor tractor that when is hot wont move blades engage good but wont move would this clutch be the problem

[@stephenormsby3662]

If the blades are working the PTO clutch is not the problem.

[@marvenanderson6899]

I have cub cadet 1042 series and PTO want engage it starts smoking when I try to engage? Is this fixable?

[@stephenormsby3662]

Marven-there is a good chance that the problem is not in the PTO clutch/brake itself. There may be a stick or some other debris jamming up the belt or the blades under the deck. The problem could also be a seized deck spindle or idler pulley. Most of the time the smoke is from the engine pulley spinning with the belt not moving (belt burning up). SUGGESTED STEPS TO TROUBLESHOOT-perform steps below at your own risk, it is up to you to work safely. 1) With the engine OFF check to see if anything is jamming the blades under the deck. If there is, remove it. Check the entire length of the belt for a badly worn spot. 2) With the engine OFF check to see if there are any sticks or other debris jammed in the belt on top of the deck. If there is, remove it. Check the entire length of the belt for a badly worn spot. 3) With the engine OFF remove the belt from the engine pulley or one of the deck pulleys and see if you can rotate all the pulleys on top of the deck by hand. If they all rotate freely with the belt loose the problem is not with the deck. Proceed to step 4. 4) With the belt off of the engine pulley, start the engine and engage the PTO. If it still smokes, the problem is definitely with the PTO clutch/brake. Get back with me on it.

[@lindaschwone177]

I've got a JD LA 145 and the wires from the harness to the PTO got ripped out. Have replaced the harness and it did it again. Is the PTO bad or is it suppose to be aligned in a specific way/orientation?

[@stephenormsby3662]

Linda Schwone Linda, yes all clutches have some type of anti-rotation mechanism that keeps the body of the clutch from spinning when the blades are being engaged or disengaged. It is essentially a "key" that should have just about 1/16" to 1/8" of rotational play. It can be a slot in the clutch that fits over a metal blade attached to the mower frame or some similar mechanism. Assuming that the clutch has been removed and reinstalled, if the slot is not engaged in the blade when reinstalled the clutch can spin almost a full turn which is enough to rip the wires out. If the clutch has not been removed, your anti-rotation bracket may have broken somehow. Good Luck, Steve

[@dmscheduler]

Had same problem, replaced pto switch, rectifier and pto clutch. Could of save a lot of money and time. It was the battery...

[@joehead1294]

Looks like some resistance/low voltage compounding the problem? If battery fully charged to 12.6 volt your loosing 0.7 volt just to lite a bulb? Not enough info about circuit in operation for diagnosis. Proper air gap-ops ck good.

[@zepps1]

Hey Steve O, I have a cub cadet 1515 that the pto kicks off when you push too hard on the accelerator. It also does not shut off in reverse (which I don't mind). And the seat sensor still works fine. Any ideas?

[@stephenormsby3662]

J.T. I assume that the PTO comes right back on once you push the switch in and pull it back out. If that is the case I would suspect something in the safety circuit ( the mower thinks you are off the seat or in reverse and kills the blades until the PTO switch is pushed in and then pulled back out). Not sure how that ties in to acceleration unless you barely weigh enough to activate the seat switch? Try unplugging and replugging the seat safety switch connector. Or you may need a new seat safety switch. Just some guesses. Good luck.

[@stephenormsby3662]

Also could be the PTO switch is bad.

[@zepps1]

Steve O thanks for responding so quick.... I was thinking it might be the switch, it's a funny problem......before this was happening the max speed of the tractor would be slowed while the pto was engaged. When the pto was disengaged the tractors top speed would be much higher. So it seems like whatever was limiting the speed before isn't working now. I've tried the seat sensor and it doesn't seem to be the problem.

[@MrAlittle5150]

I have a Ariens zero turn and when I engage the PTO the motor all most dies and the mower deck is real load. Like the PTO is putting a big drag on the mower. Any ideals? The belts look fine and I balance the blades but that didn't help at all.

[@stephenormsby3662]

It sounds like you have one or more bad bearings on your deck. First make sure the key is off and out of the ignition. Then remove the deck belt(s) and rotate each blade spindle and idler pulley by hand. Any that are really sloppy, hard to turn, or noisy probably have bad bearings. Let me know how you make out.

[@maicokid]

I have a Cub Cadet LT1022. I have removed the deck. In the video you use an air gun to get the bolt off the PTO clutch. Looks like it came off easy. However, for me when I try removing the bolt (with a wrench don't think that matters) it rotates even when I hold on to the clutch. Turns out the shaft which also has a transmission pulley on it keeps rotating as does the transmission pulley when I try to remove the bolt.. Any suggestions. Thank you for the video. I appreciate your effort.

[@stephenormsby3662]

maicokid You are correct, there is nothing you can do to keep the crankshaft from rotating from the bottom. If you don't have an impact, you can keep the crankshaft from rotating by holding onto the flywheel on the top of the engine. You may have to remove the plastic shroud on the top of the engine and get someone else to hold onto the flywheel while you loosen (and tighten later on) the clutch bolt. Good luck.

[@maicokid]

Steve O Thank you for your help. I appreciate it. Also the quick reply.

[@maicokid]

Steve O Letting you know again that your video is excellent. My tractor is up running now. You know, in my opinion, you have provided great help and saved a lot of people significant money. In my case it came to about $450.00 including labor. FYI I ended up removing the heat shield on the exhaust, LOOSENED (NOT REMOVE) engine mounting bolts(4) to access the pulley for the transmission belt. Reattached the heat shield. Again thanks so much for helping others and me out.

[@briantoal478]

Thank you...was going to buy a new clutch for $300... will try this first...Can it be done with the flywheel on?

[@stephenormsby3662]

You do not need to remove the flywheel. In come cases you can adjust the clutch settings while the clutch is still on the mower as well.

[@briantoal478]

Steve O...You are the man! I didn't even need to remove the mower deck or clutch...I followed your instructions and tightened down half turn (took me 3 minutes). Works like new. Thanks again!

[@therealjimvick]

So my cub ztr was doing fine, last time I mowed. Yesterday I started up, pulled the PTO, and nothing. I watched another video and the guy said his customer had changed the switch and it worked for 30 minutes and quit again. He swapped out the switch and the clutch. How do you know if the clutch needs replacing?

[@stephenormsby3662]

Disconnect the PTO connection from the wiring harness near the base of the engine and then apply 12 volts to the PTO terminals in the connector. If it clicks on and off as you apply and remove voltage the PTO should still be good and it is something else. It could be the PTO switch or anything in the safety circuit. This would include the brake switch, seat switch, and possibly one of the switches by the forward and reverse levers. Also possibly a blown fuse. It is rare for the PTO clutch itself to go bad. It is more likely one of these other causes. You could also have a bad connection which is not allowing enough voltage to get to the PTO for it to engage. Good luck.

[@therealjimvick]

Steve O thanks man. I can’t imagine it being worn out - really low hours. I’ll trace it down tomorrow when I have some daylight.

[@stevethornton1970]

hi steve o ive got an husky cth170 about 11years old its been a great machine but just recently it has started cutting out mid cut (cutting deck engaged) as soon as I feel it start to cut out and press the button to disengage the cutting deck the engine fires back up, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

[@stephenormsby3662]

It sounds like a problem with the deck safety circuit. Most mowers now have a safety feature that shuts the engine off if the deck PTO is on and seat switch is not made (operator needs to be on seat when the mower deck is engaged). Some models also have a feature that shuts the deck or engine off if the deck PTO is on and the transmission is shifted into reverse. All that said... It could be that 1) the operator is not heavy enough to make the seat switch or is bouncing up over a bump and not making the switch temporarily or 2) there is a bad connection, or damaged or shorted out wire in the deck safety circuit or 3) one of the safety switches is bad. This circuit includes the seat switch, brake switch, reverse switch and all the wiring in between. There could also possibly be a problem with the PTO switch itself. Do you have a schematic?

[@stevethornton1970]

Steve O hi, no I don't ,if you could point me in right direction to obtain one ,appreciated ! I can certainly rule out the reverse safety switch (there isn't one) and I am heavy enough to make the seat connection, all your help is greatly received

[@JeffreyStrader]

Steve O did the PTO Clutch ever smoke when you engaged it??

[@stephenormsby3662]

Jeffery, No, I have not observed that before. Check and make sure that your blades and idler pulleys are free to rotate.

[@chrisreynolds9131]

Did tip the lawnmower over to fix the issue and take the part off

[@randyfrick6364]

1 cyl., if u quickly close/dis-engage switch/PTO , engine recovers. Driving well uphill so loss of engine compression a/o poor tune not an issue. All Safety switches bypassed ; mower would cut forward, reverse, with or w/o rider in seat. Can literally walk beside mower in order to mow under low hanging pine branches, lol. i know.