My Ultimate FPGA Desktop for Retro Gaming - Part 1

[@thepenultimateninja5797]

I did pretty much the same thing with a Raspberry Pi. Having a stable case, a keyboard, mouse and monitor is the ideal setup for emulating old computers.

[@alexatkin]

I'm not a purist, I was actually marvelling at how much better Amiga games/demos look on a nice big OLED compared to every CRT I've ever owned.

[@RMCRetro]

Thanks for watching! This build is very much an exploritory series, I'm just figuring things out as I go and I've already had a bunch of great suggestions to improve the build. I'm just finishing this up now and will share the video soon and I can't wait to show you the finished article. Hopefully it will inspire some people to have a go at their own builds. Here are some links: 🛠The case is a Checkmate 1500 Plus - Stephen has around 100 cases remaining of his final production run so get them while you can: www.checkmate1500plus.com/ 🛠The Mister project can be followed at: github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_MiSTer/wiki 🛠SmokeMonster is a great channel for mister news and more: kzbin.info/door/skJUZ8X__mwcoU9HvGKCMg And finally if you enjoy RMC then consider becoming an Official Cave Dweller at kzbin.info or a KZbin member at kzbin.info/door/LEoyoOKZK0idGqSc6Pi23wjoin Thank you for your support, Neil - RMC

[@CircsC]

Attach the USB hub directly to the expansion card bracket. You'll get 3 ports with 0 wires. Just need 1 longer cord. Completely clean. Use the 4th for a front mount USB or put a receiver for a wireless keyboard. Get a USB A to micro A adapter so you can use a different hub with all 4 ports in a row for this design. 1 wire, 4 ports, no spaghetti.

[@MaffeyZilog]

@@CircsC A year later but this is great advice for me as I'm going to 3d print an Archimedes 3010 case and have the Pi 400 inside with native RiscOs running. As the Pi is a direct evolution of the ARM250 in the Archimedes, it's going to be like having an Acorn running native software powerful enough to use as a daily driver for some Python programming and BBC Basic. P.S. And you can always have a RetroPi SD on hand for that sweet, sweet retro gaming ;)

[@Checkmate1500]

Thanks again Neil for showing my case.

[@projectfanboy]

The multi-console was Bad Influance Series 1 episode 11 and it was a mock up image.

[@RMCRetro]

Thank you for restoring my sanity!

[@concretecodpiece]

Hmmm ... Violet Berlin 😻

[@povilasstaniulis9484]

A company called Origin actually managed to cram a PS4, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch and a high-end PC into a single case. It was called the Big O. It was just a one-of-a-kind build but it did work. Interestingly, they later made a mass production version of it, but with only a PC and an option for either a PS4 or XB1.

[@beardeth69]

Link for those interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJixpmx-fqqLe6s

[@startedtech]

@@povilasstaniulis9484 I mean that wasn't *that* impressive tbh. They just made a giant PC case that could fit everything inside.

[@BrunoFonsecaPT]

This is exactly how you should use your MiSTer... you’ve just made me seriously consider getting the Checkmate 1500...

[@kapitigeords]

Mines in an old analogue hd recorder case, that I was very lucky to be gifted from my father in law. B&O. I'd had my eye on it for some time!

[@LUNATIC75]

Guest: "Oh that's cool, can I look inside?" Neil: "No." Guest: "Oh , go on. I bet it's amazing." Neil: "It's time for you to leave."

[@stubarnes1965]

I think I'd have just drilled a hole next to the vga socket and put the audio socket there. Also with all the space why not put the power supply inside?

[@RMCRetro]

Yes that's a nice place to put the audio socket, and keep the audio and video together. I'll explain my logic...1. my drill was at home on that day and 2.... I'm new to 3D printing and find that the best way to learn is by solving a problem, so I gave myself a problem. The power supply is nothing more than a small wart plug so unless you need a little PDU inside for other peripherals it's not needed. Perhaps a brick though...to give it authentic weight!

[@NaeMuckle]

@@RMCRetro wait.. You don't live there and sleep in a ball on the floor?

[@sirconkers342]

Battery power would be better

[@Snohup]

@@RMCRetro I would move that wall wart inside the case, add a IEC 60320 C14 chassis-mount male connector, and disconnect the AC directly from the power button. That way you can have the computer connected and ready go with just the press of a button, and without the whining noise of the power supply when it is off.

[@pdsnpsnldlqnop3330]

@@sirconkers342 Hydrogen. There is space in the case for a litre or so of hydrogen, a fuel cell and a step down transformer. Plus there is enough space on the blanking plates for an industrial strength connector to take the hydrogen charging port. The waste water can be used as part of the CPU cooling system or discharged with the help of a 5" fan attached to the case. A 10th Generation Intel I7 CPU with 16Gb of RAM from an Intel NUC mini-PC could also be put in the case with its own web server software for access. This could then enable management of the hydrogen power supply system from outside of the cave. This solution would present a period correct external look to the case if the hydrogen could be filled through a faux kettle plug style PSU on the back. This would have a pass-thru connector to power the monitor with 240v. It is this little final detail that makes me think hydrogen power is the more elegant solution than just a battery. Imagine if playing a retro game and there was a power cut, with the simple hydrogen solution rather than bulky batteries you would be good to survive the zombie apocalypse.

[@stuartcole4845]

I love old new stock, it’s so satisfying to unbox. A few years ago I found a seller with new old stock genuine NES controllers. Shortly afterwards I bought a new in box SNES that no one was bidding on on eBay for $85 US.

[@DaiAtlus79]

19:44 on The Screen Savers, their tech guy Yoshi did that twice, cramming a ton of consoles in one case. It was amazing. Was like 2001?

[@Ami-Jimmy]

Isn't the picture a bit green? Try flipping the switch on the expansion board, sync on green I believe it is.

[@sahasrahla7]

Oh good, it's not just me. I was waiting for Neal to mention it in the video, but it never happened, so I started to question my eyes! :D

[@jondonnelly3]

green with envy

[@Ami-Jimmy]

@@jondonnelly3 Nah, Amiga 600 case is good enough for my MiSTer ;)

[@DanielTownend]

I thought this too, looked very green.

[@CallanBrown]

Sync on green switch shouldn't affect the color green.

[@DavidDatura]

The case, keyboard and monitor. All in uniform black…a very handsome setup indeed! Gorgeous even.

[@thrillretrogamer9801]

This is so awesome. I remember opening brand new CRT monitors and loved the smell. I totally want make a computer like this. great video.

[@BrokenCircus]

I'm loving the aesthetic of that monitor. The whole build, in fact!

[@di380]

I love the Mister FPGA but never even crossed my mind that I could connect it to a VGA monitor lucky I do have one available

[@TechCowboy]

You should use a powered USB hub, as the DE-10 Nano does not provide much power beyond keyboard/mouse

[@SuperVirus1978]

I would habe purchased an USB hub for the 3.5" floppy drive slot. This way you could connect your keyboard / mouse / controller from the front, which I find more handy. Especially if you dont use this device every day.

[@kurbeco]

It wouldn't be in keeping with the lines of the case though, for me it'd ruin the front.

[@alextirrellRI]

@@mattedsmith Bluetooth and 2.4G gamepads need to be added via USB. Same with Wifi, though there is ethernet on board. No reason all of these things couldn't be on the back or even in the case though, depending on usage. This case does have side slots that could be a good compromise for controller access.

[@AsafSaar72]

@@mattedsmith yes, wireless works perfectly.

[@SianaGearz]

@@alextirrellRI Wireless on the back is bad, because you're behind a heap of steel, which attenuates the signal a lot. You can hide the transcevers behind the front panel plastic, that works very well, i actually did this in my last PC. AFTER having them barely poke out the back and being dissatisfied with the result.

[@wbwillie]

honestly I would have drilled a hole in the video output panel and installed the audio jack there, but that's just me

[@zombieman81]

I "invested" in a MiST FPGA when MiSTer was just starting to be a thing, leveraging a lot of the idea, concepts and cores of the MiST but based on "home brew". You had to get the additional PCBs made yourself and solder every component OR try to find someone that would build it. MiST on the other hand was a fully realised stand-alone product, and boxed, which for me seemed like a MUCH better idea than something based off a "development board" which could potentially go out of production at any time. It was amazing loading up some ADFs of some 17Bit Software PD disks onto the SD card and booting up music disks that I obtained in the first few weeks/months of owning an Amiga 500 (purchased in December 1989). It really was an exciting day. I do not regret my choice of the MiST (and probably still would not go for a MiSTer) but that REALLY looks like a cool project you have there.

[@aaronnottage6629]

To see that genuine happiness in your face at around 20 mins in its honesty the best part.

[@phill80]

10:24 if I were to ever start a punk band, I think I’ll call them ‘Cocoon of Hot Snot’. Has a certain ring to it.

[@electronash]

Perfect timing, as the ao486 core just got a nice speed boost, courtesy of Mr FPGAzumSpass. ;)

[@RMCRetro]

I'm definately going to try this new core out in part 2

[@thomasandrews9355]

Ooo 486 core. Need to look into more fpga stuff

[@esseferio]

Just watched a video about it. The difference is huge indeed!

[@NirnBootMod]

Does Quarantine game run good (60 FPS)? Also the Build Engine games like Duke 3D?

[@bengmo64]

Are you taking about the speed boost from a couple weeks ago or has there been another? I really want to run doom level games on it

[@AmigosRetroGaming]

I must give you credit my friend, I did several very similar projects (MUCH more sketchy of course), but I NEVER thought of internal USB extenders..that is brilliant! I just ripped stuff apart and cut stuff and soldered crap..this is a much more elegant solution. This is a very interesting project man!

[@mario-bjornpeikert1572]

@RetroManCave: The power button on your case: Is it a monentary or stationary switch? If it is a stationary switch, you should easily be able to integrate it to your setup. If it is momentary consider using a solenoid for keeping the power present. If you use a standard open, spring loaded solenoid you should not forget the reset switch for opening the circuit. The power-led could be powered either directly from the power supply or from the solenoid. For the Switches on the MISTer you could print a frontpanel for mounting them. Just my two ideas for your build: Keep up the good work!

[@seshpenguin]

These kinds of builds are super satisfying! All the little adapters coming together in a really nice case... it's awesome.

[@dragonmac1234]

A cocoon of hot snot. Thanks Neil, that image is stuck in my head now :P

[@RMCRetro]

Imagine the butterfly that will emerge from it

[@rarbiart]

that hotsnot ruined the "excellence" styling of this device for me.

[@andrewclegg9501]

My mister is a little smaller. In a LaCie vertical hard drive enclosure, no analog board, usb hub mounted with hot snot to backplate, a few drilled holes, and use of a hacksaw and its spot on. Swapped the existing led on front for a bi colour one, and connect through a resistor to 3.3V and LED connections on the GPIO, a nice activity light. You can run the fan off the 3.3V, much quieter and the FPGA doesnt get any hotter.

[@dustinhipskind7665]

I was looking at the backplate with VGA and HDMI and I couldn't help but notice that there was enough room for a hole for the audio jack.

[@msthalamus2172]

Depending on your use cases, adding front panel USB for controllers/joysticks would make sense too.

[@Carstuff111]

It is so epic to see FPGA hardware emulation becoming more and more the norm! Software emulation has come a long way for many systems, but it can still be a bit buggy/glitchy and inconsistent. After seeing hardware emulated NES and SNES consoles that are actually better than the original hardware, it makes me want those and now this even more!

[@esshahn]

Started watching. Thought it was a ridiculous idea. Finished watching. Total envy!

[@larrywilliams8010]

I would source a low-cost, high-current 5v power supply, and a powered usb HUB. Power the hub separately so the MISTer doesn't have to carry the load. I do this with my Pi so I can attach and power up two USB HDDs.

[@johnm2012]

This. I would even mount the PSU inside the case, plugging a mains lead into a socket on the back, with a looped output for the CRT monitor.

[@larrywilliams8010]

@@johnm2012 My thought exactly, though I failed miserably at including it in my comment. So thanks for adding it for me.

[@Birdy1234100]

the ultimate MiSTer setup - brilliant video

[@justind4448]

This and part two are my new favorite youtube videos. The ending part about how your dream device finally came true was strangely touching.

[@daoneTM]

FYI you don't need to solder to the buttons or LEDs if you want to bring them outside, you can use the JST header beside the buttons for that. Also depending on what you want to connect to the USB ports a powered hub might be a better choice.

[@adambourne5523]

"little garage" may be a good idea - 3D print a caddy to store retro gamepads back there

[@MarquePierreSondergaard]

These videos just give me joy like nothing else .

[@Blupparen]

Perfect timing! I recently got a mister myself and plan to put it in an old amiga 2000 case I got off ebay. This video will help me with ideas for the project. Can't wait for part 2!

[@Andrew-x7q8c]

I bought one of them monitors from Spain, guy on eBay. It was certainly brand new but I couldn’t get it bright enough, especially in DOS so I opened it up,and adjusted the screen voltage a tiny bit on the flyback and that improved it dramatically. I've had no other issues other than that.

[@BennBirch]

Fantastic video Neil. This is exactly the type of project that I love. Taking something retro and sticking new guts into it to make something old-but-new-again. I did cringe on the amount of hot glue you used on the HDMI port. You bought a panel mount as you should then why oh why weren't you prepared to drill. I saw in the comments that you left your drill at home but that part kind of wrecked the build for me. You could have at the very least just trimmed the housing on both the HDMI and VGA connectors so that there would be room. Then you could get at least the outside HDMI screwed in to give it some strength. On an earlier build that I did when putting a retropie into an original NES console case, I went the lazy route and hot glued my HDMI port and within 10 or so plug-and-unplug cycles the glue gave out. I've regretted not getting the proper panel mount ever since... I do love that you're using your Ender to make parts that you need so you saved the build by doing that! The smart idea of getting the back panel file and reversing the holes to make things easier to create the audio jack port was simple brilliance. The other commentor who said that you really only needed a large enough washer on the outside to hold the port in was correct but I applaud you for using your printer in such a good way. Keep up the great work, glad to see you're still giving us the content that we love and looking forward to seeing part two.

[@wilfulpixel]

Wow this is unbelievably cool! Was waiting to see someone turn a Mister into a retro pc.

[@thepvporg]

Tip for getting old new stock CRT. Open, remove lose stuff, Holding flaps back, roll on to side, then repeat roll again until upside down lift off the box. Monitor is not out the box with ease.

[@Public_Relations_Dept]

Genuinely one of my favourite channels on KZbin.

[@trexslapfight]

The box you are reffering to was on TechTV via the Screensavers, Yoshi'sBox.

[@TranceTrousers]

Changing your 3D printer build surface can cause new problems i.e. adhesion. I would definitely recommend getting a BLTouch or something similar, it's one of the two best things I've added to my Ender 3 (the other is a new mainboard with silent stepper motor drivers). With the BLTouch I can just start a print and walk away, knowing everything will be ok.

[@guspaz]

Random suggestion: there are power switches that can work with the mister (inline with barrel plugs), though lower quality ones can drop the voltage way too much. I don't know what kind of power switch that case has by default, but if you don't want to run the mister's full power draw through the case's power switch, you could potentially wire up the case switch to a relay that powers the mister.

[@ZaPpaul]

I'm pretty sure the LED and Buttons have headers on the I/O board with those molex connectors. The power on/off is another issue altogether if that switch on the cover is momentary, it won't work.

[@johnm2012]

Yes, they are. The power switch needs something to latch it - how about a relay?

[@megan_alnico]

I built my MiSTer into a Super Famicom case, i even used a very similar usb hub. If you take the plastic off you can solder the 4 wires in directly, like you did with the power. You have plenty of space so I'm not sure its worth it, but, thats how I saved space. Also the power switch can be wired in to. A simple power cut is fine, with the switch in series with the hot wire. I don't have the io board so i was able to wire up the OSD and reset buttons.

[@pvc988]

10 years ago: I need a baseplate. Better look for some acrylic plate and a drill. today: I need a baseplate. I better warm up my 3D printer.

[@JohnnyWednesday]

Give it up! the days of PVC are over - you are an obsolete material!

[@WolfKenneth]

For simple shapes especially flat surface like baseplate I still prefer acrylic over 3d print simply because it is much cleaner surface.

[@Colin_Ames]

For a simple baseplate, the acrylic plate and drill is still the easiest method, in my opinion.

[@WolfKenneth]

@@Colin_Ames it also gives better results much cleaner flat surface without printer marks or doing something to cover it (acetone fume bath, putty or other)

[@SenileOtaku]

Just what I was thinking too. Except I'd *still* be doing it with plexiglass, lucite, or whatever I could find handy. But yes, I'd be using the hot snot. Back panel holes? A piece of scrap metal with some holes drilled in it.

[@JasonZnack]

It was this channel and the Mister that got me back into retro gaming. Thanks Neil.

[@Lancefer66]

As I start work on converting a back room to a nerds man cave, I have the VGA projector prepared with a pull down screen in front of my 55" monitor. Will be buying a miSTer as a final purchase in the far future after all my current consoles are in their final display shelves. Excellent and beautiful setup for the miSTer! Hopefully, there will be a fully functional case by the time I buy.

[@besotoxicomusic]

I wasn’t considering the Mister last year but you may have begun to convince myself to get one.

[@murderdoggg]

"Field Programmable Gateway" of course. Cheers

[@JonMichaelDeShazer]

13:00 Sounds like some sweet Warp Records influenced music, perhaps some Aphex Twin or Boards of Canada. Nice choice on the music!

[@RMCRetro]

Two superb bands!

[@tiannaumann]

@@RMCRetro Who produced the music? I was hoping to find out the author!

[@j2simpso]

FPGA my favourite golf computer! 🤣

[@RMCRetro]

I can't wait to take this machine to some expos. It will be an FPGA Tour.

[@AkujiTheSniper]

Those JST connectors to the right of the IO Board's buttons let you use the button functions and get all of the lights working.

[@El_Guapo74]

Cave must have a really nice vintage computer collection by now. A room tour would be pretty cool eh Cave?

[@BaneMcDeath]

WOW! As to an old article on all the consoles in one machine I swore there was a PC Gamer article or something about case mods and that was an idea that someone did. I do think it was every console the guy had on hand which was quite a few and it looked kind of monstrous. This is far more sleek and efficient I think. NOICE!

[@Not-Great-at-Gaming]

Does the MISTer support physical media? Could you include a CD ROM for Sega CD, PC Engine (CD ROM ROM), etc?

[@timseguine2]

Since you have all that space, I personally would have mounted the power brick inside of the case instead so that the computer takes a standard PC power supply cable. Sort of adds to the microcomputer aesthetic for me.

[@keiiko]

Hi, I build something similar in atari 2600 clone few years back. You can get DC plug with wires to solder on the other side so you don't need to solder on SBC. You can also get USB A male to A female mount to screw on the plate. You can also get flip switch on the back if you need to do power cycle it hard way :) . There are also some solutions for powering on and off by button. You can buy most of it pretty cheap on AliExpress or eBay. Hope it helps ;)

[@intelligenttoasters8700]

What a truly awesome video - nice work. The sense of nostalgia as you placed that CRT over the case was overwhelming! Great work.

[@TheZerohimself]

I love this!!! great job!!

[@simonj48]

To mount the audio socket, I would have drilled a hole into the VGA/HDMI's IO back plate.

[@Diggnuts]

That is such a clean look. I would not put anything on the front, but having USB there would be convenient. Isn't there a nice black keyboard with integrated USB hub? Perhaps without the numpad? Then you could use the risers on the case and use the keyboard garage feature and you'd see more of the clean lines. But as it is, it is lovely!

[@BollingHolt]

That's a great-looking setup! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[@timothyp8947]

That build looks stunning - Amiga 3000 meets NeXT Slab

[@ms-dosman7722]

Storing the mouse in that PSU compartment is a genius idea! If you make an archway it would have that classic Looney Toons mouse hole look :) Go for it!

[@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse]

Looking good and a very innovative outcome. With the usb Id be tempted to extend the cable on the hub and fabricate a bracket so it sits flush at the back where you have the four usb outlets that way it would cut down on any chances of connection issues with your present set up. With the power switch you should be able to simply wire it up in series to the power outlet at the back then to the board without issue.

[@Decipher13]

To get the USB cables looking better there’s always the option of soldering on the type A connectors from those adapter cables to the cables coming from the backplate, so they can directly connect to the hub and be whatever length you please. That said it’d be a lot of work for something nobody is likely to see so I personally wouldn’t bother.

[@bitsbytesandnibbles]

Hey Neil, Great build! 👍 Couple of suggestions: Why didn't you mount the MiSTer up side down over the PSU fan grille? There are plenty of case stand offs in the area for a 3D printed bracket. Might help cooling? Also rather than soldering power directly to the PCB why not use a female barrel jack on the bare end of your power cable? Also, maybe you could use an SD Card Slot extender and 3D print a facia for the floppy drive bay

[@SidebandSamurai]

Absolutely Brilliant, it really shows how versatile the Checkmate case really is.

[@bazza5699]

blimey 255 comments already!.. i thought you might have included a sdcard extender.. well done, it looks ace!

[@circuitsandcigars1278]

I have a late 1990's Toshiba Laptop I may remove the top display assembly and use the bottom part w keyboard to put one of these in. Nice precut back panel with VGA and USB cutouts

[@Mrmayhembsc]

Have you considered getting a laser cutter to go alongside your 3D printer? It will make it easier to make mounting plates out of plastic, wood or metal and the like.

[@beatadalhagen]

If you need access to the TF card they do make extension cables, and the USB A cutout is just the right size to design a mounting plate. If you do go that route, I'd like to see what you come up with.

[@AsafSaar72]

Fantastic build. Well done. I was thinking of setting up my MiSTer inside the checkmate as well!

[@GreySectoid]

The monitor and the case really brings it all together! I've to admit I'm a bit jelly.

[@BoydWaters]

I'm quite inspired by this project! Simply to practice some solder techniques. And while I was skeptical of 3D printing, the clean lines of the adapters you've printed are lovely.

[@Tenraiden]

Came here from 8 Bit Show And Tell!

[@ericblenner-hassett3945]

The only thing I was suprised with in the build is that you did not use 2 of 8 Ohm internal speakers and a bypass headphone jack to go to the internal speakers. The power switch seems a single press, not the older press on, press off, which could have been used directly with the power in. All still a great build. 👍👍

[@ridiculous_gaming]

I received my beige Amiga 1500 Plus literally a year ago, but it has not been opened yet. I hope everything is in there. Great video and more new ideas.

[@cjntaylor]

They make internal usb hubs that will natively accept the usb header format coming from your pci adapter. You may need a micro usb to header adapter to use that, but those exist too

[@rachelwindsor850]

FPGAs have made such a leap in development these past few years it seems, they're really amazing!

[@davepauljones]

Well done Neil, yes get that power button working.

[@leeg4116]

Always enjoy your videos, for the usb, I'd have cracked open the hub, desoldered the ports, removed the connectors off the ports on the back plate and soldered the wires directly to the hubs board to cut down on wires inside the case. I really need a Mister in my life now......

[@BrunoFonsecaPT]

Lee G the MiSTer is probably the best gadget I bought in years...

[@InsaneWayne355]

Now THIS is the way to use a MISTer! Well done. Looks great!

[@AaronHuslage]

I would make some other plates, or make your mounting plate bigger, to use for cable management with cable-tie slots probably.

[@jpsimas2]

I would place a connector at the end of those power wires instead of soldering them directly and add a power button in the middle if I were you

[@Sharklops]

I remember when I got my first black computer and it made me feel like such a badass lol

[@boheyo]

I vividly remember being 19 and spraying a Dell AT-101W mechanical keyboard case black. It looked SO BAD lol.

[@Sharklops]

@@boheyo haha! I did something similar once. The paint ended up feeling terrible against my hands when typing, and looking even worse

[@MikeyGRetro]

Great project Neil! I still got my MisterFPGA. I printed a case for but not used it that much. It so tempting to put it in a bigger box now and I might use it more as well. Thanks :-)

[@SeithonJetter]

For the parts on the backplane that didnt fit... maybe 3D a bracket to go around them and then secure that to the metal plane ?:)

[@PeacheyMcKeitch]

Oh man I need to do this! Thanks for the 3D print files that should make life easier. :)

[@AnimalFacts]

I am in love with this project! ❤️❤️💯

[@hindel6141]

What an absolute beauty! I envy you sooo much, doing the things you like for a living.. a dream came true.

[@RMCRetro]

There isn't a day goes by when I'm not thankful for what I'm doing. Thanks Hindel.

[@hindel6141]

@@RMCRetro no man thank you for the content! Missed a lot of the tech from that era so all this is just fascinating to see.

[@SimonJustesen]

That is a perfect fusion of past and present. Beautiful!

[@lactobacillusprime]

Oh the wonderful days of Gateway... Using that wonderful case for a real desktop system is brilliant. Wouldn't a powered USB hub perhaps have been the better choice? The position of the unit and the accessibility of the SD cards might be a bit of a thing?

[@SmokeMonster]

Loved the video and your setup, really cool :D

[@reiner0609]

Regarding better USB connection options: I think I would open the USB hub, desolder the USB A sockets from it and then solder the leads from the panel mount USB ports directly on the USB hub PCB. Or cut the connectors from the panel mount ports and solder some regular USB A connectors to them.

[@a500]

What a fantastic video! How fantastic you ask? Well it cost me money, that’s how great. What a lovely use of Steve Jones checkmate case. He’s only got a few left if anyone wants one I’d hurry! And the MiSTer is so great, it really does feel so much better than using pi to emulate. Like Neil, I can’t put my finger on it, it just feels right. Recommended to anyone as a perfect substitute for the real thing which ever that happens to be.