7 Tips On Optimizing Dynamic Range For Olympus OM-D

[@robinwong]

I am doing a series of Optimizing Olympus OM-D camera videos, in case you have not noticed! If you have missed a super important video of me sharing 5 tips on getting the best sharpness out of OM-D cameras, check it out here NOW: kzbin.info/www/bejne/apu0fnxrfbWerMk

[@charleyb4424]

Thanks! I'm excited to watch it!

[@anthonyhor]

My ep3 don’t have HDR mode 😢

[@stevegrooms1142]

Robin, you are unmatched when it comes to explaining things well without repeating yourself. You move briskly to make points without needless (and boring) introductions. Other KZbin presenters should study you as a perfect model for putting out videos that say what they have to say and then say goodbye.

[@robinwong]

You are too kind Steve, thanks! I do my best to ensure my videos are compact and straight to the point.

[@andrewjenks6824]

The second video of Robin I'm watching. I just love how upbeat, joyful, and enthusiastic he is.

[@flyfishnfoto]

Hi Robin, Your channel is a must for OMD users along with Rob Trek and Peter Forsgård. Thanks very much for your hard work.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words, appreciate it!

[@mitchelllorens]

Could not have said it better

[@davidwebb091370]

thanks for sharing your knowledge about Olympus OM-D, Robin! you are awesome!

[@robinwong]

My pleasure to share.

[@IamUke]

Great video. One other tip for highlights and shadows is to Expose To The Right (ETTR)-- using the histogram, adjust exposure until the majority of the pixels are as far right as possible without actually clipping the tight side. If any pixels are jammed up against the tight side they are being clipped and information will be lost (the image will show pure white with no detail). This allows the camera to capture as much detail as possible within the shadows, while protecting the highlights. Of course if the scene has too much dynamic range for the camera you can bracket and either do HDR or manually blend the brackets in post.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Good stuff again. The highlight and shadow can also be adjusted to be more precise. LowISO will give you less noise and I use it a lot when shooting still life where I can control the lights. I will lose a bit of dynamic range, but the lighting will take care of the shadows so it is not a problem.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the comment, Peter! Appreciate it.

[@vicibox]

No it has more noise; just because you cant see it doesnt mean it isnt there. The best noise performance is at the base ISO; if you extend ISO down then that is provided to enable better use of shutter speed and the image is compensated by the processing engine. You dont get something for nothing, information is lost in this process. If the result looks good to you then its a good compromise but never imagine that this is not the case. Noise control always starts from dynamic range, the clue is in the reduced range, all they have done is lift the black level to above the noise and you can do that better in post under your own control - winks P.S. This is how I deal with most noise in an image, I lift the black level above the noise level (mostly statistical and thermal noise) because this process doesnt lose information in the rest of the image. Noise processing uses smoothing techniques of course and loses serious amounts of detail ;-)

[@vicibox]

@@jomsies all noise reduction is destructive; it doesn't matter how you do it. Simplicity and technique always gives the best results.

[@vicibox]

@@jomsies Yes it is, its a question of how much destruction you will tolerate; noise reduction is the worst by a mile but any process using algoryths will destroy information. just adjusting brightness or contrast is the least destructive. You have to make the choice but, its better to be informed so you can trade benefits against damage.

[@Mir1189]

Hello. I started to test my M5 Mark III and compared indoor portraits made with my old M10 and M5 III using flash. At first glance i realized that M5 III has slightly higher exposure levels when i tried 45mm/f1.8. The goal was to get soft bokeh so i opened aperture as much as possible and i set ISO 400, later 320. With flash I was locked to 1/60. Now I see that both was bit too much. When I reviewed the images with Highlight and shadow feature, no details were lost but i had to adjust Gamma, Brightness and Contrast in post production. Then I wanted to get a darker photo (a cosplayer), so ISO 320, aperture 22. Apparenlty i underexposed certain parts of the image, but the final effect is what I was looking for. I am quite curious about one thing... Is it possible to use Lightning/shadows warning effectively with Flash?

[@miroslawguzik6116]

I m from Poland.i m using olympus and i m watching your videos. Good work. thank you.Mirek

[@totalstranger8412]

I dumped my Nikon 7000 with many lenses. I now have the OMD Mark lll with prime lenses. All the other OMD videos were getting old. You’re the new kid on the block. Thanks for the new prospective. Liking you #505

[@robinwong]

Thanks fo r the kind words, getting prime lenses is the right way to go! So small and light yet delivering fantastic results.

[@hnahler]

Robin, it is great that you give these tips for us to get the best dynamic range out of our cameras. It is likely that most of us are doing this already. A Nikon D850, Canon EOS R5 have 14.8 and 14.6 stops dyn. range respectively. There is no sensor test of the E-M1 III and E-M1X on dxomoark. The E-M1 II has 12.8 stops which is 2 stops less than the other two professional grade cameras. That is huge and shows again that OMD Solutions needs a new sensor for dynamic range much more than for number of pixels.

[@2chicos]

I have recently watched several of your “tips” videos and they are all very useful and helpful. Thank you.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for watching and appreciate the kind comments! Go out and shoot more please!

[@davidnixon5651]

Thanks Robin. I think ill need to work through these tips while watching your video again...and again.

[@robinwong]

No worries, glad I could help!

[@TheDiverat]

Thanks for another great vid Robin. It’s like having your own personal photography coach for your camera.

[@carlwheeler2774]

I have been shooting Olympus professionally since 2005 and have never been asked by a client regarding dynamic range of my images. But they do love the look of the images. Have been shooting RAW files since before the OM-D and find this to be superior in many ways especially dynamic range. You are correct in all your tips and I will have to try some of the last three regarding jpg images. Great stuff Robin, thank you.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for sharing your experience Carl, and yes, same here, I have been shooting for many years and never heard a complain from clients too!

[@alan.macrae]

Had to revisit this one, Robin. You are an amazing resource. Stay safe and healthy my friend.

[@Carlounderscore]

I used your cheat sheet and i love it!

[@norbertvieilleslames6462]

Hello Robin I discovered your channel not long ago! Thank you, thank you very much for your tips with omd cameras! I'm French and I don't speak so much English, so I'm progressing in photography and English with you!

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words, and please go out and shoot more!

[@donalone]

Thanks Robin. I noticed that my PenF dynamic range is limited after I shot and compare with full-frame in store and compare. I have been using this camera for 7 years but I noticed that some of the features I have forgotten. As I mainly take photos for kids, I don’t have the time to tweak the settings so I gradually just take pictures without looking at the settings. I will remember these tips next time I shoot the landscape pictures.

[@koos48]

This is one of the most inspiring posts you have ever done, my Friend!

[@smkunder1]

Once again you give great advice, especially needed with so many attack’s against M43 quality. I only wish I could get similar results as you.

[@robinwong]

Thanks, and I am sure you can!

[@aaronperkinson8314]

Thanks Robin. Just got my used E-M5 Mark II yesterday...I love it. And your videos are so very helpful!

[@grahamreader9141]

Thanks Robin, I had not realized that HDR was jpeg only and not RAW, I wondered why I had some jpeg images in my first excursion with the camera. Yes I only shoot Raw. GrahamR

[@loco46m]

Hi Robin, maybe you can do an update on this video since you have the OM1, or maybe even how to optimize the dynamic ranger in older cameras. Keep shooting!

[@fthprodphoto-video5357]

Great channel and explanations ! To all the full frame preachers : just try an m43 camera combined with stellar optics such as the Olympus pro 2.8 and 1.2 line or pana-leica lenses : you will change your mind

[@robinwong]

Well said!

[@PedroDVC]

The more I know about Olympus the more amazed I get and happy with my switch...

[@MrSAPStar1]

Another great video from Robin. Has really inspired me to get taking better photographs now knowing what is possible with my OM-D

[@alex-sd]

Thanks so much for the info on gradation! Always learn something new from you.

[@AnastasTarpanov]

Robin, you're the master of the dynamic range, cheers! :)

[@robinwong]

Thanks! Appreciate the kind words.

[@ssthapit]

Just noticed that you are using Capture One Pro. Just switched to it myself. Thanks for the tips. I recently added OMD EM10 II to my full frame camera and I have been finding the OMD harder to use during sunny days. I will use your tips.

[@nicola8307]

Your videos are helping me so much ! Thank you Robin !

[@CheikoSairin]

Wow, I really satisfied with the tips you gave in this video. Very detail explanation. Big thumbs up, great work, Robin. Greeting from Singapore.

[@robinwong]

Thanks, glad you found the tips useful!

[@ipadista]

I tend to shoot a bit to the right, but I am making sure to not go too far up. It's not like I have made scientific research on the topic, but to me at least it seems that if I expose to around 85-90% pixel saturation, colors really pop and stand out, if expose it brighter, the colors start to become less saturated, and everything starts to drift towards white. So my suggestion would be don't expose all the way to just before you get clipping, stay a bit beneath that level for items you want to have a rich color!

[@robinwong]

Thanks for sharing, useful tip indeed!

[@fernandevaudan7774]

Know I understand what represente this ISO below 200, you are really my OMD teacher. Thanks

[@alb41ful]

Robin, Your tips are always very helpful! Thank you !

[@robinwong]

Thanks!

[@MikeC2K10]

My Fn2 button did not activate Shadow & Highlight control (on my E-M5 Mk II it is called Color Creator). In order to get Fn2 to bring up Highlight & Shadow, the Multi Function must be configured to show it, and then Multi Function is assigned to Fn2. Multi Function Settings are under the Gear -> D menu. I like this a lot. 👍

[@alessandrozucco5292]

Thank you Robin! Your videos helped me to set and know better my em10. Really thank you

[@extremelydave]

Sir, if you are not employed by Olympus, you should be! Everything here is great info to know to make your photos the best they can be. THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!

[@robinwong]

I was employed by them several years ago. I left.

[@1957PLATO]

Thanks for the useful tips. Did not know about base ISO and the fake low ISO. I bought a used em 5 Mark II last december and just picked up a barely used em 1 Mark II just the other day. As a long time Canon shooter I am now an Olympus convert. The Oly system is incredible and packed with features. So light and compact with incredible image quality. My Canon 5 d III is just sitting on the shelf now, although it’s an amazing camera. One snag, the Oly menu’s are so exhaustive and sometimes confusing or Illogical. I think many people miss out on a number of features because of this. That’s my only criticism. The rest is only Olympus love.

[@robinwong]

I agree, Olympus' menu can be quite tricky, I wish they have a simpler implementation!

[@geebee2276]

Ditto your comment 1957PLATO. I have also just transitioned to Olympus, except mine is from Nikon ff. Amazed by the image quality and the build of the pro series lenses that ‘Ive purchased. The menu is is taking some time to get used to. I love the customisation but trying to find the right combo is taking a while as I keep improving/changing and re-assigning my commonly favoured settings, thus making it hard to remember what button is assigned to a particular feature. I think time spent and experience with the Oly system will sort this out though.

[@1957PLATO]

Yep, after 10 months still finding new features and also, thanks to people like Robin, Peter Forsgard and Rob Trek, shortcuts and hidden tricks.

[@MissMyPie]

Thank you so much! Because of you and another vlogger I get my Oly everywhere without fear to shot "wrong way". You videos always are so positive, so motivating, so helpful! Better than chocolate to cheer up. Love my Oly more and more after you video. Wish you all the best!

[@robinwong]

Oh my this is the first - to be better than chocolate! Thanks so much. You made my day.

[@vicibox]

Great video. Dynamic range is always a serious topic with me. Sorry, I use a Panasonic GX9 but hey, I have Olympus primes and a TG-3 so not a complete lost cause. People forget that (I am being kind here, they dont know at all) that the dynamic range of the human eye is 10stops; yes it can accommodate 40 stops but only after a long period of adjustment. At any moment in time the range is 10 stops. Therefore every camera on the market has sufficient dynamic range if you set the exposure correctly. We dont see detail in shadow; shadows appear black in normal vision. The only photographer I know who uses dynamic range effectively is Valerie Jardin and her street photos are stunning; dont bring out shadow detail, lift the black level for dramatic street shots. To my eye HDR looks ghastly; like a 1950s colour postcard so I avoid it like the plague. So larger sensors have more dynamic range do they? I dont think so. I have been using a Sony A7 for the last couple of weeks with a 50mm f1.8 lens. Well even at f8 my backgrounds are out of focus making the images useless; with my 25mm f1.7 I can shoot virtually wide open and get plenty of depth of field to use for complex scenes; if the world you inhabit is 1cm deep then a full frame camera is ideal for you but for me its useless as I take hyperfocal ultra realistic panaramic street shots and will stick with MFT. Myself i shoot at ISO400 for no other reason than I have been shooting ISO400 film since the 1960s and this setting is fine on all my cameras. Have fun ;-)

[@robinwong]

I guess it all comes down to what the photographer is trying to achieve, and also what you shoot. For landscape photographers, they treasure the ability to shoot as much details as they can from the extremes, and the presentation is usually beyond reality. Sometimes, the magic of photography is to reveal what human eyes cannot see, or have trouble seeing. I can give another example - insect macro photography. Some of the insects are so tiny, yet with proper macro shooting techniques we can magnify them to almost a full screen size!

[@alan.macrae]

Thank you again and again, Robin! Sitting here with my new M1-Mk III, learning the menus/controls and setting according to your recommendations.

[@gcprost]

Thanks for doing this. Are any of these techniques excluded when shooting video?

[@davethebarber3130]

Perhaps a bit late for a comment, but… I always learn something from all your vids, Robin, and the tips make it possible for me to extract the maximum amount of usability from my OM-D eM5 iii. I also like when I see you do post-processing using Olympus Workspace. That has helped me a lot too. Thanks, and Stay Healthy. -Dave

[@Impostertot]

Awesome tips Robin, really enjoying this series and all your channel content! Thanks so much.

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@jeremybeswick550]

This is the second time I've watched this, and now I get what the HDR function can really achieve. I think this will make a lot of difference for my photography... Thank you so much (again), Robin!

[@OniMirage]

Low Key and High Key should be used when shooting images in that style. For instance for vivid scenes with lots of dark areas you can use low key to further emphasize the blacks to make them look like ink rather than patches of gray. The opposite High Key can be used for muted scenes with lots bright areas to force white into a pure high light. I am a believer of getting the shot as correct as you can when you shoot it so adjustments are made simply to optimize rather than used to save you from incorrect exposure.

[@774duke]

Very useful video, I have missed this before. Thanks!

[@VadimOm]

The more i watch Olympus reviews the more i want this camera Can anyone tell, is there a way to know what camera and lenses will fit my needs if i would consider to switch? Is there a resource where i can get info?

[@edgarsteele]

Awesome video, thanks Robin! Along with the tip on using live view highlight & shadow clip warning, for me it’s also very helpful to disable the live view boost, unless I’m shooting with flash or in studio. Live view boost enabled does not give accurate image of exposure

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@tobykelsey4459]

How does HDR differ from exposure bracketing? You should also mention using graduated filters, which has advantages over digital processing.

[@lichtloper]

excellent suggestions, robin! thankyou

[@kylegifford2116]

You are very talented Robin!! Thank you for your well done informative videos!

[@hnahler]

Thank you for clarifying the L64 and L100 settings in comparison to ISO 200. - I will make sure to stay away from these low ISO settings.

[@robinwong]

Glad I could help!

[@TheSquishySnail]

More great tips. I need to watch this a few more times to make sure I am using all the tips. Hehe. In a field where everyone is trying to find the best of the best... I love that your videos are all about showing how to get great photos with what you have. I especially love your kit lens video. Too many people toss it aside for what they deem a better lens, but their photography skills still need work. *coughmecough* Your videos really teach so much without superfluous chatter.

[@robinwong]

Thanks so much for the kind words! I do my best whenever I can! Go out and shoot more!

[@straycat1551]

I bought a book especially for my OM D EM 1 MK II, but I found the really good tips here. I think I can apply most of them to the PEN-F as well. Thank you very much for sharing your extensive practical experience.

[@RaleX89]

Hei Robin, i stumbled upon your videos a while ago and i am amazed about your skills and i am here to learn from you as much as possible. I am a begginer in MFT, i used alot of full frame. The enthusiasm that you are using in making your videos is amazing! Keep it up, you got a subscriber. Have a wonderful day and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@kattwomin]

Hi Robin. Thanks for your great videos, they are a joy to watch . I just want to ask what software editing program was shown in this video please. Cheers.

[@Clayh1007]

Robin, I really like your tips and other videos. I've learned a lot from them and I'm getting more out of my Mark II. Thanks for the hard work I really appreciate it!

[@robinwong]

Thanks Clayton, glad that you like the videos! Shall do my best to make more.

[@BatuHijau]

Thanks again for a great informative video. What post camera software do you use please.

[@JosephStalin01]

thanks again Robin another good, well presented and informative video . . . please keep on presenting these for Olympus OM-Ds

[@BatuHijau]

Robin, is there any chance that you could share some advice on shooting bright coloured lights at night? This will be a great help.

[@poppafuze]

It's like I just got a camera upgrade. Thanks man.

[@KennyChas47]

Hi Robin, I have a question. Have you done a video on Multiple exposures and can you show us how to set up (Example) C1 on an E-M1 MarkII for the recording of a video and C2 for recording Procapture L in order to follow a subject (Or have you already done this in one of your great videos). You convinced me to purchase the E-M1 MarkII (3.)0) and I thank you for it. Thanks in advance.

[@lvca.avellino]

the gradation is complicated to use. It really depends on how you adjust the contrast and saturation of the color profile. I use LOW -1 saturation and contrast and a S -3 +3 and the jpg has nice contrast

[@michaelgabes7574]

hello robin, thank you for your continuous help on the different topics around Olympus gear. Most of the time, I already know 80% of what has been said, but with your contributions I can close the missing gap! You make us realy better photographer! thank you therefore! Especially the deep dives in the Olympus menus are very helpful! highly appreciated!!

[@grzegorztbg1988]

Very cool tips. Thanks.

[@robinwong]

You are welcome!

[@mikechan31]

thank you for the very useful guide of using & editing in RAW

[@robinwong]

No worries, glad I could help!

[@jameswong8419]

Haha..good to see some hometown images....the waterfront/TPK. Great video

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@Eti1968]

Rob in, you do make Great video’s. As for dynamic range I’m more than pleased with the em1 m2. I never use hd3 1 or hdr 2 I usualy take the 5 or 7 shots. As you mentioned the gradient tools in Lightroom help a lot on the raw file to bring up shadows or bring down highlights in parts of the picture.

[@robinwong]

Thanks! Glad that the E-M1 Mark II is working out fine for you!

[@KiroLoh1218]

Useful tips and detail explanation ! Appreciated your hard works. 👍

[@robinwong]

Cheers!

[@DXVXD]

Very usefull videos for me as a beginner photograher who starts out with the em10 m2! Right now i am shooting with the omympus 45mm 1.8 and the 17mm 1.8 Also enjoy your way of explaining 🤘

[@robinwong]

Thanks for the kind words. Those two exact lenses you have were used to film all the videos in this channel.

[@yvainbenoit1010]

One more very useful video. Thanks a lot

[@richerich8007]

I shoot 99.9% of all my photos outside and for me with either the M1X or the E-M1 MK2 I shoot most everything +1 E. V. to get the histogram to the right, but having the highlights and shadows turned on keeps me from under or over exposing my photos, as per usual great video Robin!

[@robinwong]

I think you are talking about ETTR! Very good tip to, especially for better detail capture in darker/shadow region! Thanks for sharing.

[@richerich8007]

@@robinwong Yes I was talking about ETTR, thanks.

[@tangmerah6775]

@@robinwong sorry, what is ETTR robin ?

[@robinwong]

@@tangmerah6775 expose to the right

[@tangmerah6775]

@@robinwong thanks

[@RuiMiguelDaSilvaPinto]

Good video. I have encountered some problems with Dynamic Range when capturing certain challenging landscapes, in my case I bracket my shots and bring them together using Aurora HDR. I was impressed by the number of pictures I was able to rescue (from my EPL7 and my OMD cameras). Aurora HDR is able to with a single RAW file or JPEG file, the software is amazing...

[@hotjazzbaby]

I do the same with Aurora. Amazing results

[@stephanhan.8390]

This is the subject I always wanted you to review.. great and thanks.

[@robinwong]

No worries, glad I could contribute

[@יונתןנחום-כ5ע]

Love your videos Robin! Very helpful and I learn a lot from them! Thank you!!

[@robinwong]

Thanks! Glad I could help.

[@RichardsModellingAdventures]

I’v shot loads of makes of camera and find the omd cameras fine on DR. It’s better than a lot of canons or at least as good as for sure

[@4suc6]

Robin , what editor do you here? Dr has two sides. Lower iso preserves shadows but crashes the skies. On fuji you can actually get 2 extra stops by built in dr analog processing. Pitty olympus missed that. But hey, we have inbody hdr stacking and a little flash. I would use it on the foto you show. A tip for you.

[@AmyiReport]

So much to learn from you. Thank you, Robin.

[@robinwong]

Thanks Amy!

[@maido2945]

Hi Robin, thank you for all your useful tips I love your videos. I’m a novice photographer and I’d like to know if is it better to over or under expose a photograph? Thanks!

[@allencrider]

Hmm . . . I own a pen e-pl8 and never knew about gradation auto before. So I checked my manual and even my low-end Olympus has this feature!

[@datachamp]

Hi Robin. Thanks for your many videos, always interesting. I moved from an EM5.2 (still use when travelling light) to and EM1.2 and was disappointed that you could no longer assign Mysets to PASM mode dial positions - it was not just SCN and ART but, P, A, S or M. I admit it was not easy to do this but I found it useful. When I wanted to shoot in S mode it would automatically change for example to low continuous shooting and different AF. In A mode I wanted back button focus, single electronic shot for landscapes. When you turn the camera off and on again the settings are remembered. I can use C1, C2 and C3 on the EM1.2 so not really an issue but if there is only one myset on the EM5.3 that would put me off upgrading (I would love the hybrid continuous AF as on my EM1.2).

[@photogol]

Very useful video. I am pretty sure that HDR mode produces both a jpeg and a RAW file in the current firmware version of the OMD EM1 M2

[@robinwong]

Nope, only JPEG.

[@photogol]

​@@robinwong Hi Robin, I use very often HDR1 to shoot real state high contrast outdoor scenes and I always get both a jpeg and a raw file. Could it be that the difference in results that you get are because of a different configuration in your camera?

[@robinwong]

Go back and have a look at your shots again. The RAW file you got from the HDR mode is simply a single exposure from the 4 images captured for a composite HDR result. The HDR result will ONLY be in JPEG. The RAW file is the original file, unprocessed.

[@geuskoeman721]

Thanks very useful Robin

[@LazyLinx]

Thanks for the video, I am trying to use some of the setups but gradation can not be used with HDR mode right?

[@BatuHijau]

Thanks again for an excellent informative video. I'll soon be spending a few days in the harsh sunlight in Singapore so your advice will be invaluable.

[@bobrose7900]

Great video Robin, but that menu can be daunting!

[@jeicobsi]

Thanks for this videos Robin, really appreciated! I'm in now.

[@joelarnol5134]

Bonjour Robin, merci pour le partage 🙏

[@robinwong]

Cheers, and please go out and shoot more!

[@charleyb4424]

I use 5 shot bracketing in 0.3EV increments to help get best possible exposure for architectural and landscape photos (outdoors, no tripod). This method has been working well for me. I'm wondering if I can combine Exposure Bracketing method with also using Highlight/Shadow Control, or HDR1, or Gradation Auto ? Thanks to you, I now know to use ISO 200 instead of 100.

[@anthonyhor]

Hi Robin , for tip 5 i am not able to find the highlight control , i am currently using the E-P3 , kindly advice , thank you

[@christinecoughlan4699]

Thank you Robin🌺👍🏼

[@PuchoWebSolutions]

Hello from New York City! Which image editing software are you using to fix the image at timecode: 04:21 ? Thankyou for informative video.

[@diybatterypower]

Hi Robin, thank you for all the helpful videos. What editing program are you using in Tip #2?

[@arefuddinahmed892]

Another excellent and very useful presentation Robin. 😊👌👍 I was a jpeg shooter mainly due to lack of time for processing. After watching your videos and talking with you I am now shooting RAW + jpeg so that later if I can make time I can create better images from the RAW files. Thanks a lot. 🙏🙏🙏

[@tizio54]

If I may add an 8th tip: What about exposure bracketing in RAW and then doing HDR in post-production? It's a bit more cumbersome, but might yield somewhat better results.

[@robinwong]

That's a good tip. I did not mention it because I rarely used HDR.

[@phrozenheart]

Great tips Robin!

[@robinwong]

Thanks!

[@sjdunphy]

Very useful Robin. Thank you!

[@Mjohnedel]

Hair's looking great Robin!

[@robinwong]

Cheers mate!

[@JulesMoyaert_photo]

Very useful! Thanks!

[@robinwong]

Thanks!