Rochester Quadrajet Base Plate Rebuild 2 Bushing Install

[@turbotempest4095]

Great video! this is the one thing that has prevented me from rebuilding my Q-jet. Thank you!

[@TheC5corvette]

Just ordered the Reamer and bushings.... But wouldn't it be better to install the first new bushing after drilling before you go and drill out for the second ??... as then you would have the center section and a new bushing in place at one end to aid in the drilling alignment for the second bushing.

[@georgekalafatis7286]

I made all my tools out of nothing I made my own bushings out of copper pipe and it worked out beautifully and I have zero money involved and that's the greatest thing of all

[@petratical]

Good, but putting aluminum in a steel vise without some protection between the aluminum and steel could scar the polished surface of the carburetor. Use cardboard or old rubber inner-tube to protect it. Thanks

[@Spiritof_76]

He's probably never done this job before. It looks like it's the first time he ever did this procedure.

[@joemills1621]

Love the Vids, I feel comfortable to do the bushings now. thank you! But I had to call MCMaster-Carr to get proper part # for bushing it is 6391K153 Oil-Embedded Sleeve Bearing for 5/16" Shaft Diameter, 3/8" OD, 1/2" Length

[@backnine]

Hi Joe I dropped a number in the video Glade it helped you. You can do Holley's the same way. They use a 3/8 shaft. I may do a video on it. Harold

[@joemills1621]

I plan on getting the bushings from Grainger, as they are a bit cheaper. and the reamer from ebay. I will have about 25 bucks in it total.

[@joemills1621]

I noticed (on the bench full of fuel) that not only is it leaking from the primary shaft, its leaking around that center gasket. is that a common problem, or just the gasket probably bad?

[@backnine]

The mCMaster-Carr bushing number is 6391K153. I dropped a number in the video.

[@johnF56]

What if you were reaming a single barrel GM TBI unit and didn't have the benefit of the "center" shaft bore to aid in alignment of the reamer. Do you think you would still get a perfectly aligned throttle shaft bore using the method you displayed?

[@primotote]

Thanks !!

[@IBMara]

Thank you. Great Video. I am having a hard time determining whether or not to re-bush the throttle shaft(s) in my 4150 Holley. They may have a very small amount of of play. Almost imperceptible if at all. Trying to Wiggle the shaft at idle has no effect on the idle. On the road, when holding the throttle steady at small openings, the engine runs lean, but when doing so at larger openings the A/F ratio is fine. I have an O2 sensor in the exhaust. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you, Leo

[@brianwilson717]

Thank you. Great Video I have the same question as Kevin Any info on the secondary bushing replacement? Bushing, reamer, etc. Thanks, Brian Reply

[@MarcsRandomVids]

I really enjoy watching your carb videos! Are you doing carb work for customers? I have a base plate that I'd like to save but everything on it is seized. I tried, penetrants, solvents and heat..nothing budges (throttle plates and idle screws). If i can send it let me know. Thanks

[@jodiepritcharddavis8124]

Harold, do you know what reamer and bushing are needed to do the secondary throttle shaft? Video was very informative and worked perfectly for the primary shaft. Thanks Cecil

[@hmdwn]

I paid a carb shop $238.00 to rebuild my used (sitting under my work bench for 30 years) 1978 Quadrajet that I bought to someday remove the ECM controlled E4ME Q-Jet...that finally happened, I told him I wanted the base plate bushed because there is play in the shaft-(to me it's too much play) He rebuilds every carb then runs EACH carb on either an inline 6-cylinder or smaller V-8 to dial them in. He told me..."my throttle plates were not that bad, and when they get rebushed the carb never idles right"...doesn't make sense to me. Anyhow, I bolted my Rodchester Q-Jet on my 81 Vette and the engine idles and runs very good. However...who knows when the already sloppy throttle shaft will start sucking air to the point idle adjust ability is a problem.

[@mikemoreau2320]

Thank you for this informative video. Using the reamer shaft and long bolt as guides is very good thinking. What is the clearance between the bushing ID and the shaft OD? Thank you.

[@turbinesafe9968]

Mike Morea

[@cristianayuso1146]

sucks air when regulating, I have to put the choke to make it work

[@mjd9813]

how you cleaned the base like that?? i hope its not sandblasting

[@primotote]

No love for inner bushings?

[@honuswagner9348]

the wear happens on the outer bushings only, as they carry the most forces. As you can see, the middle of the shaft was still new looking (the green teflon paint on it)

[@55dude]

great video thanks! are numbers for screw for throttle plates?

[@backnine]

+55dude Yes 3-48

[@mrcirino5181]

How do you get the little screws out for the butterflies without snapping them or do they break

[@backnine]

Grind the threads flush with the shaft. Then remove the screws. If they feel hard to remove heat the shaft with map gas.

[@mrcirino5181]

@@backnine okay thanks I will try at today..

[@mrcirino5181]

@@backnine if I grind them down where do I get new screws at

[@backnine]

@@mrcirino5181 McMaster-Carr 3-48 Binding Head SS. 3/16 Front 1/4 rear.

[@georgekalafatis7286]

Nowadays you know you can buy that carburetor for about $250

[@purestock22]

This must be done to a otherwise its a waste of time to rebuild a qjet. I have that reamer but I also have a special ground self centering drill bit I prefer over the reamer. The procedure is basically the same and is idiot proof.

[@emoverrette9568]

I would have used a electric drill !!! Drill the dam thing all the way through lol lol

[@pattygq]

The purpose of a reamer is to bring a drilled hole to an exact size. In this case .3745".