MinuteMan's First Benchy! Is a sub 1 min 3DBenchy possible? (Episode 5)

[@NiklasAuBln]

I'm not here for the sub minute benchy but for the journey to get there including most of the "lessons learned" along the way -> take your time and finish this journey on your own pace

[@ernie5229]

Every time he says, "Still, no input shaping!" reminds me of, in Wayne's World, where he plays "music" then says, "Would you believe I've never had a lesson?"

[@Roetz40]

Party time, excellent! Wohohohohoho

[@MrSchrootenstein]

Take a shot every time he says input shaping*

[@That_droper]

@@MrSchrootensteinyour would need your stomach pumped 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

his cooling system is biblical, its splitting the ocean

[@NefariousElasticity]

General thoughts: -For the X/Y cables - take a look at the Positron, it uses coiled cables with matching interfacing on the pulleys and idlers to prevent slipping. That will become more of a problem as you start to go faster. -The central spring idea to hold the bed down to the work surface may not be as good of an idea as people in the comments are suggesting because it will induce a new point for resonance to occur. And gantry "crashes" - I guess kind of like what happened in the video when the bed wasn't homed? - will cause a lot more damage. Magnets would also create a lot of friction. I think your idea of the lapped plate with the retainer top plate and standoffs would work better, though I'd spec out your tolerances to allow for a low-viscosity lubricant to be used there as well. -Air pressure and air source cleanliness probably need a look. Do you have a moisture trap in line from your compressor to the ducts? CPAP would be a good call here when feasible. -Definitely at least the top plate of the bed should get machined from aluminum. Can cut and place a textured bed sticker on top to help with adhesion as you go faster. I worry about the squareness of the gantry plate the bed is sitting on, though. Please post a video of you going through ADXL readings and setting up input shaper once you get to that point, would definitely get a kick out of seeing the graphs.

[@Roetz40]

Good Points! You'll see input shaper graphs here in YT, or even faster on the discord ;))

[@travisfabel8040]

You NEED to put a silicone sleeve/sock over that heat block. It will help you substantially. You can do a simple DIY silicone one. Doesn't have to be a big mold project. That shields it from the air coming off your air blast and will substantially help. I know how much it helps with traditional tiny blower motors so that shop air system is probably blowing a huge amount of heat energy away

[@Zilli_341]

some fiberglass and a bit of kapton tape should be enough for testing

[@excitedbox5705]

Yup, wrap it in Saran wrap and cover in a thick layer of silicone rubber caulk for a quick DIY test. Once it dries you can remove the Saran wrap. Costs $3-10 depending on the brand you buy. Action and Aldi (only sometimes) have it for very cheap.

[@lassikinnunen]

Its just easier to wrap it with some capton tape. Its not that much of a problem though if going full heating blast, isn't with regular mk8 style designs either if temp sensors between the heat cartridge and the nozzle. It is a problem if it is not.

[@Platonic_fish]

They have pre made fiberglass sleeves that you fan just get the right diameter for and put it on the hotend. Works better than every single silicone sock I've ever used, and it just slips on and it will hold. You can zip tie the outside if you want, but If you get a smaller diameter and stretch it over, not necessary

[@travisfabel8040]

@@Platonic_fish reminds me of the fiberglass sleeves that older cars put over spark plug boots when you put headers on. Those probably would not only work, but they're probably the right size for him.

[@Scrogan]

Input shaping, linear advance, a silicone sock, automatic part-cooling control (proportional valve if not a fan), and increasing the spring-tension should all help to get tighter printing. That dynamic hot end temperature thing might be great too.

[@timoleppanen1150]

Great work! Since you asked, I’d prioritize characterizing the extruder/cooling setup: what’s happening to my material as it goes from solid to liquid to solid? I know you’re already doing this; being the core issue in fast printing it’ll be valuable to learn more about how your setup is currently doing. I agree with your thoughts on hardware; being limited by stepper power/runtime and wobbly/leaky extrude parts isn’t great. A couple things I would prioritize learning about: What is the actual temperature/state of the filament as it leaves the extruder? How does this change with different extrusion rates? How does this change with different types/levels of part cooling? How does the material cool down after it’s extruded? How does part geometry/orientation change this? How does flow rate change this? If you can “pick” an ideal exit temperature, and a “time/distance to Tg” during cooling that works, everything in your system can be compensated to target this state.

[@Roetz40]

Thank you for writing that down! Great thoughts on the hotend, if been wanting to investigate the relationship between melt temperature and time it needs to run through the hotend. Been thinking about how to measure melt temperature itself ( e.g. sensor in the nozzle ) I can tell by now that we're going on a very deep dive on this topic. Maybe one of the future episodes will feature an interview with a fluid dynamics engineer. Maybe.. ;)

[@timoleppanen1150]

@@Roetz40 Can't make the world's fastest benchy without a deep dive:) "Tinkering" is also fun through other's projects. A fine wire thermocouple drilled into the side of the nozzle right at the tip could get us close to actual melt temperature. Looks like they're available all the way down to 0.0005" (e.g. campbell scientific), meaning it could get reeeally close to the flow. Maybe stick another right on a printed layer and extrude over it to experiment with cooling.

[@cloud-forge]

Amazing ! Thanks for sharing this. Can't wait for the next iteration. Very good job ! Also your workshop looks sick ! Love the mix between 70's old stuff and modern equipment.

[@eliokreier522]

Very interesting project. I would isolate the nozzle/hotend with a silicone sock. Your cooling solution is very powerful, it probably also cools the nozzle quite a bit.

[@bareabarea3449]

Great great approach to super fast prints. Please keep the great work, we wanna see more of it. Cheers from Brazil

[@DutchMastermind]

Do you have an air dryer for the shop air? if not you might be blowing condensation/water particles on the print.

[@Roetz40]

Yes I do have!

[@carlosabreu922]

Good Job My respects I agree that the base could be more stable to the base surface. Instead of magnet , a center pulling down spring would more than enough. Krylon instead masking tape ! The most important !!! The cooling air is a mayor problem To much pressure will deviate your layers and extrusion. I would modify the ends of the nicely made nossle tips to respond to an increases in air pressure. Like flaps that open by the pressure and increase follow and lower pressure. Very. Important I notice humidity in your printed benchy The cooling air sources must be bone dry. You compress air is contaminated with oil (layer separation problem) Air must be cooled to lower the need for more air as well. Agree to the other adjustments but those are ready to be bottom down. That Teflon plugs, should be a cased with an access screw cap or female cap. Thanks you for sharing Is a very in novative setup Everything is dissected and can be observed and study oppenly and reviewed on time. Is gutted out setup !!!

[@Scrogan]

He’s going to have a glass plate above the black plastic carriage.

[@mobiobione]

This is very entertaining to watch. Love the raw engineering. NeedItMakeIt is actually running a part cooling duct contest right now, see who's got the best design for high speed cooling

[@thedamnone]

KZbin's image stabilization is warping the granite, perhaps use a stronger light or even the camera flash on your phone to make it less blurry.

[@mortenmoulder]

I don't think that's KZbin's stabilization doing that

[@greengaby9]

I think those are the phone camera app's own algorithms

[@TheBoingTV1]

@@mortenmoulder You mean he's so fast he even moves the granite, right?

[@Neptune730]

I stumbled onto this channel. That's an interesting concept. I love those granite plates. I can use one in my metal shop. @23:58 that could be the SS Minnow.

[@broderp]

Consider holding the build plate via a spring-loaded mechanism under the main table. Less friction and adjustable via the spring selection or a basic tensioning mechanism. Great work helping the 3D community go more in less time!! 👏

[@Superkuh2]

Or magnets!

[@SuprSi]

@@Superkuh2 Magnets will cause drag from induced eddy currents, might be a problem at these high speeds. I think @broderp 's idea is good with a spring under the table.

[@Scrogan]

Diamagnetic levitation from bismuth fluoride epoxy?

[@Schraubfreak]

Great stuff again. For me I know you need more energy on the setup. The Stepper driver maybe have to be bigger ones. A fitting power supply. The hotend also need to be fixed to bring the head into the filament and also more stiffness into the two melting zones. But for the actually setup you made a great work and the result is absolutely amazing.

[@bokunochannel84207]

the cooling nozle, try offset them 15 deg from each other. so the so the air actually pass slide of each other instead of coliding and creating turbulent,

[@youtubehandlesux]

Aren't turbulent air beneficial though? Look at tentacool cooling system

[@bokunochannel84207]

@@youtubehandlesux can you refer me to the video or article? Idk what tentacool is. Isn't it a pokemon?

[@SwervingLemon]

No! Vortices in the cooling zone is BAD. You need an escape path for the pressure. You'd do better to do 120° offset but still both pointed at the nozzle tip. Linear flow and a generalized escape route for the airpath.

[@lionfire01]

you could program in a calibration, similar to a CNC with the ruby probes to get a more dialed in dimensions. As the nozzle is conductive you can use it as the sensor. you could mount the calibration probe in the center of the build puck.

[@HO-cj3ut]

Hi, I'm Baran. Let me give you a great idea: First, you should lower all four motors by 5 mm along the Z-axis. This way, the bed will be pulled downwards, but there won't be any movement restrictions. Second, replace your bed material with an oily plastic. You're welcome! ;)

[@yokeprg]

I think tuning your pressure advance settings will also help a lot with strining at higher speeds. Great video Jan

[@fullsendmarinedarwin7244]

Excellent! You don’t muck around. Do you have a job or this is your job? Wish I could get my projects progressing this quickly

[@swecreations]

My guess is that he's running a machine shop with clients, and this is a side project in his spare time.

[@Roetz40]

Yeah I do RnD work for industry. All on youtube is my hobby hustle, 99% of my day job is NDA protected

[@Rob_65]

That 260C on the heater block with the PTFE plug ... Getting fairly close to the limits of PTFE. For the cooling, you could have a look at the air knife from Streamtek. That is a way to increase air flow and cooling without using too much shop air - but I would safe this for a much later stage. First important things to increase the performance are the heater blocks and the movement system, especially the table. That additional plate @17:20 and 2 air bearings, one from the bottom of the table and one through that plate could create a very stable setup

[@jakobfindlay4136]

What would i start on next? One of the 2 big issues under extrusion or lost steps. And i would be mounting the top retaining plate to remove variables

[@Ilikemakingthings]

Congrats on first benchy! 🎉

[@jangrewe]

I don't think you mentioned explicitly that you did it, but just in case: PID calibration! Cranking the voltage of the heater elements up that much will surely need it.

[@802Garage]

Really awesome progress. I think next you need to get a version of the stabilized air bearing platform finished. That's the one part missing true proof of concept it seems. Try to go for something as final as possible. Then tighten up the motion system with added stepper cooling and permanent positioning and all. Then move on to the extruder and hot end again. I mean the order doesn't really matter, but going system by system as you have been makes sense. Just my thinking.

[@aaamott]

Ive got a 4:09 benchy that I decided not to post (blobby side) and a 4:56-ish one. Without pressure advance, it consistently blobbed along the z seam bad enough to end the prints. Also, cooling: try offsetting the ducts to create a vortex. Instead of interfering with each other, it spreads the cooling effect

[@butre.]

29:37 remember what I mentioned a few videos ago with the orifice size thing? you've run into that limit. you can only shove so much at a time through a 0.5mm hole. molten plastic isn't liquid, it has a shear modulus.

[@renevile]

i'm intrested to see how you test the cooling effeciency of different setups. one way could be as simple as a normal hotend (heater and thermistor) set to 240 degrees, and then just reading off the duty cycle when cooling air is being blown directly onto it. i'm also qurrious to see if a cheap leafblower can outpreform your shop air compressor. Btw, is there any thing to gain from pre cooling the compressed air with a peltier or in a ice bath before you pass it through the regulator, just to remove a little more energy from the air...

[@0bloodshot0]

no. just no to the leafblower idea, there is no gain from this but the cooling part could help but the gains from it are not that big compared to the delta of the molten plastic to the shop air

[@renevile]

@@0bloodshot0 you are probably right, i'm just throwing ideas. sometimes something works that logic says wount.

[@GrahamMcCullough]

We've gone from top-to-bottom straight path hot end geometry to some stuff with really interesting CHT internal geometry, but we are still pushing straight down, leading to bad blobbing/leakage even with high retraction. I wonder if you could improve the hot end design with a u-bend like in a toilet to help reduce pressure from gravity, or if this would be difficult for an extruder to push, or just disconnect from retraction settings entirely. If you had a sideways S shape, you could put heater cores between the loops, which buys a lot of surface area. Congrats on first benchy!

[@karellen00]

A couple of stuff that comes to my mind: - If you want to go that fast you really have to tune pressure advance and especially smooth time; - for the extreme PA and smooth time you will have at that speed you really need a beefy extruder, something like an Annex Rappel or Voron M4 with an LDO 2804 or 2504, or a Sherpa Heavy; - For that small of a print you don't really need a lot of flow, maybe even just one block could be sufficient for now at least!

[@a.very.lockwood]

Perhaps a pellet extruder could work well on this motion system. They can move far more plastic than a filament extruder. Not sure how well an oversized one would do with a small nozzle. Maybe it's worth considering?

[@Mcm_7711]

Unsure of what your long term goals are for this but defs consider patenting you work, even as an open patent, just at least so its confirmed as your work. Awesome stuff dude.

[@Superfungus0]

You need to vacuum preload that air bearing! Don't mess around with adding weight or crap on top! Also is your shop air cooling just contaminating every layer with oil droplets? Could be messing with later to layer adhesion

[@David-gk2ml]

you can make a heating block that feeds 2 filaments into 1, and if that works you might use 3 copies to build a tree, 4 filaments into 2 blocks into 1 block to nozzle

[@Subservient3d]

One for the algorithm. This thing is great, love the bed motion system

[@jxdinglol]

Would it be possible to add something like a peristaltic pump in between the two heater blocks so that you could retract fully liquid plastic much more easily? I'm not sure what kind of tubing you could use that would withstand the heat of the melted plastic, since PTFE will probably deform fast if it's being squished at over 200C--but if you could figure out a way to pump liquid plastic to and from the first heater block into the second without any backlash (hence the peristaltic pump), that might be the key to unlocking the quality.

[@0bloodshot0]

Cooling: easy to improve, just split the shop air line into 3 and use 3 outlets+expanders with an slight offset to create some vortex for a more stable airflow. you dont need an duct like with an fan. Comparing it the other setups: you get the pressure, you got the outlet area, Bernoulli is your friend. measuring other setups is harder tho, but why bother. hotend: next prototype should be as simple as possible. i would go for a single split with a longer heat zone. maybe the next splitter is needed for mixing but a longer heat zone should do the same. 4 heaters should be fine, maybe go for 6 and heat it up gradually. extruder: a modern extruder will to the trick. motion system: thats the hard one. its hard to isolate all the things going on. you currently run an "undefined" system with the top part of the air bearing missing and the outcome is still acceptable.

[@revilolavinruf]

I wonder if having some lube on the surface plate would help reduce friction, but also crate a vacuum so the moving table wont life during directional changes. having a film should reduce wear too.

[@ElectricGears]

Since your overall speed is so fast, when you set the higher retract amount I am wondering if the liquid plastic is actually cavitating. I'm wondering if at some point you will need to change to a closed loop pressure based control to get an accurate volume as opposed to the current open loop volume based control that the standard extruders provide. If you are redesigning the hot end I would add a port for a high frequency pressure sensor to at least get an idea of what is going on in there. An alternative might be adding a very small piston (probably under closed loop solenoid control) that could fine tune the volume of the hot end and compensate for the larger movements of the stepper motor. It would be like the lens holder on a CD/DVD drive. The stepper is far to coerce to accurately follow the disk's tracks so it makes large steps, and electromagnets on the suspended lens make much smaller steps. When the lens nears the end of it's travel, the stepper takes one step and the lens moves in the opposite direction to compensate, leaving it back in it's center of travel.

[@TheBakafish]

For retraction, I'd suggest a deformable final heat chamber. Oval cross section, with the internal volume changeable by deforming it with a pneumatic cylinder since you have shop air anyway and the hotend mass isn't an issue (just two positions should be fine.)

[@ijaetschji]

I was thinking of something similar. But to control the retraction to (by "opening up a chamber", while even feeding filament. But then he changed the extruding system. And it would have been probably more complicated at all.)

[@guntarszubulis]

few things to consider - i think rattling is a big contributor for motion system not being able to cope with current 5min goal. it is a parasitic dynamic load. - i think two zones of heater should have different temperatures. entry zone should just preheat plastic close to melting temperature. while heater is in two peaces, upper part can be tested separately to determain neaded temperature and power to achieve this. reason being that molten plastic has much more drag on inner walls, thus requesting more push power from extruder motor and reducing overall flow of extruder at the same time. - more speed does not equal more flow. as You said, speed from compressed is making lots of noise, but that is not equal to lots cooling. air ducts could be optimized better for high speed flow and / or last half a meter of hose before entering ducts could be much bigger diameter to decrease air speed and improve volumetric fill of ducts. i hope this makes sense. :)

[@tebla2074]

another great video! Really enjoying watching this project progress. I wonder if there would be some way to regulate the filament flow at the nozzle, rather than relying on the extruder pusher for retraction. That way you could have longer melt zone without the usual problemss that brings with retraction.

[@agentjwa]

since you have high pressure air available have you considered just injecting a high pressure low volume jet down into a velocity stack to let Mr Venturi do the work? similar to how dyson has its 'bladeless' fans.

[@coreypeacock9900]

I would be very interested to see that hotend with something like a 1mm nozzle on it to see what kind of flow numbers you get given that you'd have a much larger hole to push plastic through

[@icebluscorpion]

Consider adding 4 additional nema motors to the other two poles that are empty with the same angled setup of the already installed names wouldn't it further restraining the turning/twisting forces ?

[@jbrownson]

loving this series

[@notagainnate6743]

Air compressors collect a lot of water and spray out when you use the air. Do you have some way to make sure you're not spraying water on your print?

[@coledavidson5630]

And we thought the bed moving in just the y axis was bad for stability... Seriously tho, this is an absolutely insane setup, very creative and pretty damn cool

[@croustibat682]

thats a very interesting bed slinger ! I like the cable friction setup. The last time I saw one it was for a robot leg actuator, and the guy said he used iron then stainless wire but it did put too much wear on the pulley and had trouble with tension. He switched to something different, cant remember exactly, i think it was carbon fiber reinforced nylon. If you get trouble , try finding that one. Also stupid question maybe but ... why dont you insulate the hotend ?

[@valseedian]

I would love to see some kind of sub-ambiant parts cooling added here. could be achieved with some tecs, maybe some water since your z axis is functionally stabilized.

[@daliasprints9798]

He's got compressed shop air. You get subambient for free just by putting a thermal expansion valve near the outlet.

[@runtissmodlab1492]

look at the marionette 3d printer. Same design but moves the extruder and has a clever mechanism on the top that you should consider using instead of springs to keep tention due to the springs weighing so much. Love it! Ive always had this experimental idea, let me know what you think, what if you used 2 or more extruders in line to increase flow rate?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

I might have missed it, but what filament are you using ? that can be very important and one reason why so many print speed boats in abs. It's a fantastic idea and project to follow along so I am going to stick around and keep watching your progress.

[@aserfuller377]

do you keep your filament like.. super dry?.. maybe that could help a bit. and as a trick for seeing more the details, you can buy a small ight and use only that to illuminate the piece from a top side (the phone could pick a bet better image if there is more natural contrast in the image, like just one source of light coming from one side)

[@ijaetschji]

Hello, this is an interesting experiment. And because you asked for... ;-p Here a thought (I had already for some time, maybe even two ;) ). I don't remember exactly the "specs" of your "carrier". But... (based on personal experience) First i was thinking about notches on the bottom. But that's maybe not the right way. The problem: whiteout any "vents", the air is "leaking out everywhere" - uncontrolled. The carrier vibrates, rises, and so on. So, just give the air (pressure) a "controlled way out". But maybe not as I first wanted to suggest. Instead: what about "vents" which are directed upwards and outwards? Maybe that way they could probably add some "down force" to - while avoiding vibrations. (And maybe even give some additional "directional stabilization"?) As long as you can supply enough air. there shouldn't be a problem with friction. Since this text is already a bit longer. maybe I'll wait for the second thought. (It's related to the "moving system". Or, to be exact: the fixing of the strings. Maybe the "vents idea" is already enough. ;) But just a short "hint": what about "moving the fixing points - through the carrier - to the opposite side". To add some "leverage".) greetings

[@dand5593]

24:37 really? you can see underextrusion ? no way! 31:06 what? leaving joke apart, it can be done! looking quite promising this design. Looking forward!

[@misterbean29]

thank you for taking us on this journey.

[@Lcperez511]

Have you considered putting graphite lube between the bottom of the moving bed and table? I think it may reduce friction a bit more.

[@Kingston_504]

@Roetz 4.0 Easier solution for the bed that would make it also better if you were to ever try to build main-stream rather than just a 1 off. Move the motors to under the platform. then clearance routes for the strings to go through the platform board. The angling of the strings would allow them to provide down-force so rather than it working against you, it'll further aid you. Obviously, this additional down-force will cause more friction but I'd recommend a glass insert in the platform or make the bet itself from glass as some printers do anyways. then you can have nylon pads like you get with a high-end mouse which provides the slickest contact possible. While I originally thought about a bearing bed, it'd be hard to also cool or lubricate them for the fast rate you're pursuing. The problem I see with you doing the large wooden plate is you are putting it above the strings which will still make it more top heavy and also creating more stopping force that's needed which can cause the strings to stretch more and cause momentary delays at transition points.

[@DerSolinski]

Awesome machine, and the first results look promising. 👍

[@wktodd]

Cooling. Probably better to have the high pressure air impinge on the part so that the maximum expansion (and hence cooling) is happening around the nozzle.

[@ElectricGears]

At least move the regulator to be as close to the nozzle as possible (it should be mounted on the hot end). The self-adjusting orifice in the regulator that separates the high pressure zone from the regulated pressure zone is where the expansion, and thus the cooling, happens. Insulating the line could also help if you turn the air on a let the system cool down a bit before the print is started.

[@joescalon541]

For orca time estimate it goes off set acceleration and jerk settings in printer profile.

[@mururoa7024]

As the part is being build, the weight of the sliding bed increases, so do you have to compensate the motors for that, or does it not matter.

[@Roetz40]

yes that will make a difference. Ill do tuning tests with half the benchy weight attached, that way it averages out the best...

[@kazenostro]

The cooling of the material depends not so much on the powerful blowing of the area, but on how much the material itself can quickly give heat to the carrier

[@giuseppebonatici7169]

this. you have essentially 2 options after air contact is essentially instant: change the gas (insanely expensive) and cool it to the lowest possible. change the material so it has a higher melting point. better conductivity only matters if the gas is not the bottleneck. radiator benefit from high conductive materials because you can make fins that modify the surface relation between the good conductor (aluminium, copper) and the crappy one (air). a benchy has no fins, so the surface is defined. you can only modify the materials involved. more power would only futher deform the melted plastic. one impossible 3rd alternative would be like leasing a really good conductor in the plastic so the heat can be drawn to the structure and dissipated by the bed movements. but that would require things comparable to diamonds in the filament and the bed surface.

[@magnadox]

Very cool! Still loads of room for improvement!😊

[@zarster]

Awesome! That extruder gear setup looks like old school basic chinese extruders. Maybr upgrade to something like a LGX extruder or other moderns system?

[@zarster]

You got to that point at around 30:30 great! Awesome to follow the project

[@Convolutedtubules]

Great work. The compressed air is extremely annoying. I don't miss working in the CNC factory 😖

[@sumguysr]

A vortex tube would be really cool for part cooling.

[@NamacilHDx]

Do you have an oil filter in the air line ??? I would assume yes but just sanity checking xD

[@icebluscorpion]

What would happen if the enema motor carrier could swivel to compensate the slenting of the steel cables?

[@Roetz40]

Mainly we're adding a lot of rotational inertia to the system since we have to swivel the motors aswell

[@doppled]

how fast could you print with a moving hotend and bed that moves in the opposite direction?

[@FABBuildit]

I noticed your cooling is uneven. There were more drops of water on the left of the dish than the right. I think when the air is coming into the vents it is favoring one side.

[@devoid-of-life]

I have seen some discussions among mostly chemists regarding the melt viscosity of various thermoplastics. With my very limited understanding I believe PET may offer the lowest achievable melt viscosity, assuming you are able to meet its temperature requirements. I can't personally make any helpful conclusions, but it may be useful to investigate plastics which flow more easily, and perhaps more predictably.

[@PencilParasite]

Great work man 👍

[@jakobfindlay4136]

Don't remember if it's been said but what voltage are you running those steppers at?

[@Roetz40]

56V. Anything over will trigger over voltage error

[@MrBaskins2010]

holy shit dude, nice build

[@ziocrielo6148]

You should probably remake the heat block as one large piece (well, 2 technically) instead of 2 halves. Then you can also redo the heater cartridge placement

[@emiljoensen1759]

Exciting :⁠-⁠)

[@bdykes7316]

If you want higher motor performance: 150W Yaskawa SGM7A-C2A 40mm Servo Motor with a Nidec Shimpo 42mm 3:1 gear reducer VRB-042C-3-K3-S8ZG8 and a Yaskawa MP2600IEC Dual Axis Motion Controller (Dual axis servo drive with basic plc functionality to send commands to external z axis drive).

[@dfrosted]

This is cool. Seriously reminds me of my maslow4.

[@phljns]

If you will put extra weight to keep the bed down, why not just put it on linear rails?

[@VaWo13]

this adventure is awsome to follow

[@eeledahc]

Sorry, my internet is not great so I couldn't get through the whole video. Are you pumping air under your moving bed like an air hockey table? I hear what sounds like air but I can not spot it, maybe it's just because it's sped up. If not then maybe it would help with friction if the bed does ride on air.

[@wutangclams9936]

This is awesome

[@therockk]

Is it just me or the lower hot end block looks not aligned and straight compared to the top?

[@mipa6028]

Amazing progression

[@coledavidson5630]

9:00 you're gonna need a MASSIVE silicon sock for that lol

[@ml.2770]

Can you please enable silent mode for the stepper motors please?

[@greenman360]

What is this motion system called? Where the hotend never moves but the bed goes in every direction? Edit: the hotend moves on the Z, but you know what I mean lol.

[@thomaskletzl6493]

i must say i wasnt thinking that benchy would even finish

[@SirRobinII]

Let's go for something over the top. Make the bed levitate. Use a 2d electromagnetic levitation drive to move the bed.

[@jakeehrlich8113]

I’m a bit new to the channel so sorry if this was already answered in a previous video, link me to the video where it’s explained if so please. For lightweight objects your motion setup is likely better and can achieve higher accelerations with less deflection than a CoreXY but I suspect part deflection is going to really kill this on larger parts…possibly even a benchy but I could be wrongs is the goal JUST to print a sub 1m benchy?

[@bo0tzz]

Yes, this machine is built only for printing a benchy, nothing else.

[@Roetz40]

Haha that sounds so stupid when I read it here :D

[@bo0tzz]

@@Roetz40 I think it sounds awesome lol

[@jedisct1]

This is not a bed slinger, not a core XY system either, how would that be called?

[@NoMercyFtw]

would input shaping even work the same

[@stompinmcallister1312]

Why does part of the table in the video look like the table is warping along with the movement.

[@Roetz40]

I think thats because of my camera setup. The previous one didnt cause this effect...

[@paul_devo]

I would suggest doing some slow prints, just to see the quality and learn something

[@ToviDing]

how about 360 degree surroud cooling? that may help~

[@sumguysr]

Why are you waiting to do input shaping?

[@Roetz40]

At the very moment I introduce input shaping I'm messing up the comparability of my design iterations. One IS result may be better than the other - we can't draw a stable line under these results.

[@sumguysr]

@@Roetz40 Or you can do tests with and without it, but know how your iterations interact with IS.

[@briankorsedal]

This is the first time I've seen this, but is that an air table?

[@Roetz40]

Not in this episode, but yeah it will be an air bearing ;)