ROKDO ✖︎ ROCKLANDS ~指とトレーニング~

[@SHO-1989]

For non-Japanese audience, below is my rough translation of this conversation: 1: To get strong fingers, Nomura believes you should be in a good body position with feet supported in order to challenge your max gripping effort. When your feet aren’t supported (HB, campusing), your gripping effort isn’t challenged. 2: Murai says he uses half crimp because his wrist is stiff. Therefore, in order to gain good angle on his wrist, he uses half crimp. Then, he can use not only fingers but throughout his arm and back. 3: Naoki uses full crimp because he never had to use half crimp to gain distance. 4: Murai uses half crimp because he had had to to reach far holds due to his height. That’s how he developed his style. 5: Full crimp needs to be trained before open crimp (in their opinion) to develop “bakajikara” meaning stupid force in Japanese. Like an absolute force. Climbing half or open crimping focused when young is not ideal for fostering strong climbers because you climb while your center of gravity is under your hand. Hard climbs requires you to get out of this body position by utilizing full crimp so the range of difficulty you can climb will be very limited.

[@user-bx4zq7fx7e]

Thank you so much, I appreciate it!🙏🏼