Rollsizer Brass Prep Explained: Everything You Need to Know!

[@FClassJohn]

Find it here in the U.S. www.shootsmallgroups.com/product/universal-rollsizer/ and for international go here www.rollsizer.com to find a dealer near you.

[@amirdzaferovic3489]

John, you can grow this channel so much by doing reviews on stuff because you are born to explain and make regular people understand things in simple way. Please explore other stuff in long range world and prs. Don’t be afraid you are just natural at explaining things and bringing it to user in simple way.

[@FClassJohn]

That's very kind of you.

[@MScott-y4g]

I'm glad to see the rollsizer is on the market. I've always full length resized but I always knew the bottom of the case was never getting sized. Thanks for the video John.

[@larrydesantis9800]

Well, beyond the product, the video was well done and the studio light and clarity are perfect.

[@hbudsmalley6317]

Well, I had questions about this tool vs a small base die and how it might help with loosening primer pockets but your video answered those questions. Good job.

[@flooded3456]

I bought one earlier this year and tested it against unrolled brass. I see no change in scores or POI using it. It eliminates the clickers and doesnt affect the desired precision- win, win

[@mikes5918]

I am really curious about this device for benchrest competition - How often are you using it, and how many firings before the clicking comes back? Clicking brass will definitely ruin your day at a big match!

[@rollsizer5623]

​@mikes5918 we recommend it be rollsized after each firing

[@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw]

I dont think you would notice a difference until the cycle of your brass comes to an end.

[@jonathanlogan6647]

Glad to see this is getting attention in the precision market. Ive had one of his originals for years with 9mm, 45, and 556 and love it. In ipcic and just general tring with classes there is no practical way to segregate your brass and well always end up with mix brass. Before this we had to check every round on a case guage and hope you caught a buldged one. It was especially bad if someone had a glock around. Ive never seen a product be able to truly return a case back to factory specs so well and do it so easily. At least from a forumer speed shooters prospective that dealt more with these issues its been well worth the money.

[@kevincapps9607]

I haven't been reloading very long but I always thought about that area down on the base. Good idea on burnishing it.

[@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw]

Companies make dies that size the base as well. But it can be inconsistent. The fix would be to run the brass through the sizer a few times. Just to make up for brass hardness inconsistencies at the base.

[@davedave2941]

Got manual roll sizer same year that Aussi offered it here in N America - the best thing for my Glock brass 223 and 300 blackout! anneal my rifle brass and wow! Roll size fired case then FL size is soooo much smoother. Great review

[@Moraprecisionreloader]

Does it matter if you roll it before you resize the brass because it would seem to me that if you resize it after you roll it that you gonna flare the bottom out as you push the brass down?

[@rollsizer5623]

​@Moraprecisionreloader it's still going to improve the brass compared to not rolling but the process and brass movement is better ( more consistent) by rollsizing BEFORE sizing. It's all to do with plastic /elastic behaviour of the brass.

[@Blackplagueprecision]

Very Glad you are posting this. I have been looking into this product so it's great to see some video around it. Thank you!

[@xxshiftlockxx]

I'm glad you touched on the small base die issue, cause that was going to be my question. For my 6.5 prc I bought Erik Cortina's expander mandrel die, because he specifically makes them like a small base die at the bottom to help squeeze that base back down. Since I've been using them I've had no issues with the base growing. I usually run my brass through it two times per case. Once, then rotate 90 and run it up through again.

[@jasonweishaupt1828]

I stockpiled reloading supplies over the past few decades. So when things are tight I can still bust caps.

[@martinsims6624]

Thanks John, great video, very interesting piece of kit.

[@kennymac198130]

Thanks John you're costing me money. But thanks for sharing this. I have this issue shooting prs so definitely gonna be ordering me 1.

[@kochj0713]

I think this actually works really well and range brass especially those that are shooting 45s

[@anitacoco7542]

Thank you John! Great video. This roll sizer is exactly what I need. My FL sizing die leaves a bulge, and therefor case will not fit into my Micron Arbor die.

[@JamesJohnson-if8rz]

Appreciate this video very much. A lot was put out in a short period. Was aware of this long ago. Uspsa shooters like it for that 9 major and 38super. The comparison you showed however, of affected area. Good to know. Thank you!

[@rollsizer5623]

The other rollsizers would suit volume reloaders better but John explains it well.

[@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw]

Ide love to get this, an AMP annealer and a concentricity gauge. Those 3 things would completely change my reloads.

[@wickedtrutharms57]

Excellent video well explained. Thanks

[@cornbreadburgess1950]

Thanks for sharing brother 🙏😁 enjoyed it and that would work great for a magnum cartridge,,but they may dies much cheaper for the Magnums and for hunting brass would be fine,,no doubt that is a fantastic tool.thanks again for sharing.

[@thelittledetailscr7231]

I just got the mini and hooked an Amazon motor to it!

[@jesusisalive3227]

I've known about these for 9mm for a long time. I didn't know they were making them for rifle rounds.

[@rickschwertner282]

In the competition community, this is known as "Buying Points" if you are experiencing clickers. This is a very interesting piece of equipment

[@alexandergrigoriev7035]

Thank you, John. I am glad I came across this video because I do have some concerns about the bottom portion sizing. In a comment note, I am curious why you are rolling cases with primer. IMHO, it would not be logical to de-prime first. YMMV

[@mtnshooter2487]

What is a clicker?

[@Leethal1]

Very tight case after firing. Bolt makes a click when it rips it out SAAMI Specs A “clicker” refers to the clicking sound when a bolt “lets go” while extracting a semi-stuck case. It hits a hard stop for bolt opening at the top of the extraction ramp.

[@yabba5696]

Essentially, the brass has stretched larger than the actual chamber is, which makes the bolt lugs be under pressure because they are in an interference fit now, when your bolt hits the opening that click that you hear is your bolt releasing off the lugs and popping back to the length of the case, very very minuscule stuff happening but it'll cause your problems nonetheless

[@86309]

A clicker is when the bolt clicks (pops) at the end of its rotational travel because of a dimensionally oversized base to chamber fit.

[@johnthompson6656]

It's a tool for consistency !

[@StyxHGuiltyDV]

It's BS for those who don't know what they are doing. I load for over a dozen cartridges and have no such issues.

[@SDMacMan]

Do they make one for belted magnums? My 7mm Rem Mag brass gets a nasty bulge right above the belt that the regular die doesn't touch.

[@jeffnichols5176]

No

[@xaviergreyling6620]

​@jeffnichols5176 Was VERY excited when I came across this to address bulges above the belt on 300WM and 7Mag... Sadly this tool cannot accommodate belted Magnums....

[@ImNoBSING]

I do not reload belted cases myself but it sounds like you are sizing your brass too much. The weakest point is above the belt so it gets stretched and compressed the most. You can test inside the case if there is irregularity above belt, if so then I assume you oughta scrap them. Usually there is once you can see it from outside.

[@95GTSpeedDemon]

With belted cases, like 7RM, look up case head seperation. Dont reload suspect cased. Shoulder bump with a full length die just like non belted cases. It can head space off the shoulder just like non belted. I have loaded for two rifles in 7RM, they had much different case dimensions in the chamber. Factory brass has to stretch ALOT to fit. That causes case head seperation by working the brass too much.

[@tonymcveigh8789]

Been using one for over six years

[@janbastein7355]

Very, very interesting. But only a comparison, conventional and this tool , same caliber, components and rifle would provide real world results. Thanks.

[@beauwilliams3353]

Excellent presentation!!!

[@perdidocamaronero5400]

I have had problems reloading Lake City 308 brass due to bulging a FL die can't size enough. I had loaded some and got to the range and a few wouldn't chamber I never gave it a thought while loading them they all resized normally. Measuring every one is just not going to be fun so I made a bushing in my lathe that the inside diameter is the minimal size that the brass will fit in my chamber if it won't fall through the bushing it won't fit the chamber of my .308. Believe me this process isn't any fun either for a while I would chamber the empty pieces of brass prior to reloading and again no fun. I solved my problem by buying Lapua brass and put the Lake City away now I need a buddy that has one of these doubt I will ever have one.

[@jimwhite9483]

What is a "clicker"?

[@klvtv]

When you open the bolt after shooting the round and it’s stiff. It hits the top of the action hard and clicks because the case has expanded at the base and gets stuck.

[@flooded3456]

Its when the brass at the .200 line expands under pressure too close to the chamber dimension at same location with not enough spring back making case tight during ejection cycle. You feel a slight binding at the end of the bolt lift.

[@86309]

A clicker is when the bolt clicks (pops) at the end of its rotational travel because of a dimensionally oversized base to chamber fit.

[@Rascaille-m8l]

Thanks! I would like to see some group comparisons to see if it helps, or is it just for function?

[@FClassJohn]

In testing so far it's largely more in the function side of things, however the easier and more consistent functioning seems to be translating to more consistent groups for me.

[@Rascaille-m8l]

​@FClassJohn Makes sense, thanks. Have a good one!

[@sf2189]

Just ordered one. Can you walk through how you adjust? Meaning use a fired piece of brass, size and then adjust, resize, adjust again. Then resize on a new case to test, etc?

[@relleknoj]

How does one set it above the belt on belted magnums ?

[@tonydevich7937]

This is awesome

[@relleknoj]

How does one set it for 7mm Mag and 30-378 Weatherby? Follow up to the- how is it set for belted magnums ?

[@FClassJohn]

My understanding is that it’s not for use on belted mags.

[@Evintos]

@@FClassJohn Couldn't it theoretically work if you use the "large" side of the pointy finger plate so the belted mag cases drop down a little bit further?

[@rollsizer5623]

It cannot be used on belted cartridges

[@rollsizer5623]

​@FClassJohn correct. To much variation on the belted dimensions

[@howdyduty8890]

Does this have to be used frequently?

[@rollsizer5623]

Recommended to be done each time before sizing. You get consistency and you avoid problems picking up others rejected brass as well

[@randallcherry4554]

If the rollsizer reliable fixes clickers, than that alone is worth the purchase price.

[@86309]

Very curious to see if over time , that the case head web to base portion is work hardened enough at a higher rate than just FL RS, , since annealing is not present there and work is being done. Are you seeing much spring back as you get 4 and 5 cycles on the roller , so you have to dial in the Mic a thou or more? May not be a issue.

[@rollsizer5623]

We regularly reload to 40+ reloads on pistol cases and have not seen anything that suggests the brass is work hardening or becoming prone to it if it is rolled each time.

[@peaceriver7808]

Would annealing the base ruin it, or would it get work hardened again during the process?

[@ErikCortina]

DO NOT ANNEAL THE BASE!The case will blow up.

[@peaceriver7808]

@ErikCortina Thanks, Erik. I could hear you all the way up in northern BC. Lol.

[@vervi1jw1]

Ask Erik how he lost his left index finger. ​@peaceriver7808

[@john-draftanimal]

Think this might reduce 'belting' we see in the 6mm arc community we see from time to time. Also, does this change how one should anneal? Like, should one anneal heavily reused brass to the base and then roll?

[@Patrick-xd8jv]

No

[@tonydevich7937]

Nice info

[@harveysexton7176]

Wouldn’t work hardening the brass cause more case head separations in the long run?

[@DocJustinT]

I was just about to ask the same question.

[@Josh-uf1rv]

It has too lead to more case head seps, there’s really no way around it

[@Greg-v7n]

Avoid hot loads, problem solved. If you need more hp, get a bigger round, don’t blow your face off

[@Josh-uf1rv]

@@Greg-v7n lol irrelevant comment

[@rollsizer5623]

No. With rollsizing the head seperation is not an issue. You don't damage the brass and you can adjust your sizing die to suit your chamber.

[@johnbishop1911]

I'm just assuming it won't work on belted magnum's like the 300 WM.

[@FClassJohn]

Correct. I’ve been told it won’t work on belted mags.

[@rexemprojectiles2902]

We make a wildcat forming dies that can pretty much turn anything into anything 👍👍

[@take1one]

I've wanted one for 9mm for a while.

[@amf2591]

Thx for sharing this product. So one would roll size in the step after annealing and before FL/shoulder bump?

[@Jay78801]

That would probably fix my military brass (308) that still will not chamber after small base sizing.

[@Greg-v7n]

Cast your chamber and sizing die, you should not have to use a SB die. I just figured out what was going on with my 6.5 CMs my Ruger chamber is .008” longer than my Tikka. I bought Hornaday dies and I was able to get a .002” bump fine, I was not able to close the bolt on the Tikka with this sized brass. I bought a RCBS die set and the length worked, but the diameter was.001” smaller than the Hornaday sizing die and the finish was a little rough. I stoned the RCBS sizing die then polished it with diamond compound. Bottom line, don’t assume anything, overlapping tolerances can play havoc

[@Jay78801]

@ the problem brass was fired in a military gun possibly machine gun known for over sized chambers and would not size down to fit my ar10. The real fix for me is to buy better brass! Everthing I have chambered and fired in my firearm sizes fine.

[@flooded3456]

I asked him if he would make a motorized version of this for the 6.5prc. Adding one more step of 300 pcs of brass isn't ideal.

[@0garyh0]

Is the sizer parallel or tapered?

[@channelview8854]

That was my first thought as well

[@Greg-v7n]

Most bottle neck cartridges are tapered, but there are straight walled rifle and revolver rounds

[@channelview8854]

@Greg-v7n Well, yeah, obviously. But the question is, how does the Rollsizer accommodate both tapered and straight case walls? If you have knowledge about this I would be very grateful for an answer.

[@leonhart2452]

The rollers have to be flat. If they weren't the case would ride up or down in the rollers. It looks like the rollers only size the bottom 3/8 to 1/2 inch at most. After a few firings a case head just above the web swells. This can cause the case to grip into the chamber a bit too much. This tool just removes this swollen area. A lot of size dies can't size this part of the case very well. Dies designed for progressive presses often have the mouth of the die tapered a bit to ease case alignment in the die. I have issues with some rifles and brass that have this problem. I bought Lyman size dies that you drive the cases in and drive them out. You can use a hammer or an arbor press. These dies size the case all the way to the rim or base of the case. Slow but works well. These Lyman dies were made a long time ago for the 310 tool and the Tru Line Jr presses. They don't make them any more. Lee Loader whack a mole dies would do the same thing.

[@channelview8854]

@leonhart2452 Thañks

[@DW-35]

So do clickers only happen, when pressure is pushed up at or beyond the limit? Or is it a reamer/ chamber related? I know you touched on it in the video. Just want to understand abit more tbh. I have a 6.5 PRC, and a few people said I'd have many issues, but its been fine, not had clickers etc and brass on the 7th firing.

[@flooded3456]

Most PRC chambers are called "PRC" due to the tighter tolerance at the .200 line. It sounds like your chamber was likely reamed slightly larger at that line. Measure you brass at that .200 line and see what it is. This will help you see what your reamer did. Also some brass is harder at the case base and won't expand as much as fast, but certainly will when it expands enough to match the reamer spec of your chamber. Hornady for instance is a soft brass and expands quickly (also shows swipers at less pressure)....ADG is a harder brass. Lapua is good as well, but I still had clickers at 3 firings and heavy bolt at 5 with Lapua. This RollSizer eliminated those issues.

[@mikes5918]

flooded3456 hit it on the mark (200 line punn intended). Clicking brass can happen at normal and higher pressures especially if your chamber is tight at the .200 line and the sizing die is "normal" or a little loose - even 1/2 thou will make a difference sometimes. I fought my first 2 reamers trying to find a sizing die that would work . Realized it was due to the reamer being slightly undersized and the sizing dies (multiple high end to off the shelf small base dies) not bringing the base down much more than .0005. I ordered a new reamer with the .200 line .001 over the previous spec and now my dies size the .200 line .001-.0015 depending on the die and no clicks. I am sure there are others with different experience and no clicks and those with clicks, but I am a proponent of "fat" chambers vs tight/small when it comes to the .200 line dimension.

[@DW-35]

Thanks guys, makes loads of sense now. Measured at the 200 line, like you said and looks like I've got the 'good chamber and die setup'. Doesn't seem like it will be an issue, proper lucky there 😅.

[@DW-35]

Thank you for explaining it to me, it's much appreciated 😀

[@Travis_Jaburek]

Does it make the case grow longer?

[@JMXxxxx]

Really like the idea of the universal model, negating the need for cal specific dies. Hope this is headed toward being automated as well. That would seem to be the optimal goal, hopefully...? On the universal, when you pulled the slide back this doesn't appear to exert as much force as I would expect to deform the brass similarly. You showed the dial determines how far back it can go when being sized. However, when inserting a new case you pulled it back to insert it. Something seems odd about how much force is at play here. In comparison to the other models where the brass is squeezed around the die, wouldn't this be exerting a much larger force? How are the two comparable in that regard? BTW, i still want one. :)

[@opticsandmore]

Nice video! question what if you already use the expander dies form eric cortina they bump the bottom aswel

[@garysreloadingroom]

I have run "unsupported" pistol brass through a "bulge buster" die for quite some time. Regardless of whether it is rifle brass or pistol brass, if the case has been stretched enough to create a bulge, doesn't that inherently weaken that area of the brass? I appreciate that you can force the brass back into a desired dimension, but I question if the brass isn't changed from a wall thickness strength aspect. From a metallurgy perspective, does the reformed brass have the same wall strength as a piece of brass that never had a bulge? I understand that you can now chamber that brass, but I think that there is more to the equation. Your thoughts?

[@KingLoopie1]

Interesting thing to consider. 950 is a hefty investment though...

[@SSGSPEEDMAN]

Does this help with blown out primer pockets and resizing to reuse brass ?

[@FClassJohn]

As I said in the video, he doesn't promote this as a way to tighten primer pockets. I've heard some people claim it does but maybe at best it just keeps the brass in better shape to it can't open up as easily?? Not really sure yet on that one.

[@rollsizer5623]

No the rollsizers don't crush size down the primer pockets directly. We do see a lot of anecdotal evidence that the rate of stretch of the pockets reduces a lot giving longer life (personal and from others). But once they are loose....we routinely get 40+ reloads with rollsizing in pistol in Aus

[@SSGSPEEDMAN]

@@FClassJohn thank you for your response

[@SSGSPEEDMAN]

@@rollsizer5623 thank you for your response

[@nevadaar2773]

Have you taken measurements of the Rollsizer lengthening the brass or moving the shoulder forward on a fired piece of brass? Should the brass be re-sized prior to rollsizing, and after rollsizing, or just re-sized after rollsizing? Just questioning if one were to size the brass prior if the neck shoulder shows any amount of forward movement with the rollsizer.

[@kevincoe907]

Will it tighten up the primer pocket?

[@russellfleet7636]

Would this tighten primer pockets on rifle brass? Looks like it should.

[@FClassJohn]

It's not designed to tighten primer pockets but it's been reported that if used on new brass it'll help keep them a little tighter but I haven't tested that yet.

[@davethompson1702]

maybe a dumb question but in all 3 calibers of the PRCs i have had the "clicker" issue, first with my 6.5 than the 300, so i got ahold of the AW2 reamer and "fixed" the chamber, for the 7 i just ordered my own AW2 and "fix" it before it was ever fired, so the question come down to over working the brass with this new rollsizer ... if my chambers are already cut to reduce/eliminate the clicker issues would roll sizing not lead to over working the brass and it will now expand with every firing? the PRCs are the only calibers i reload for that have had this issue so they are my only reference and I've been using bushing dies and mandrels to minimize the working of my brass to extend its life along with annealing... maybe this is a grand i just dont need to spend

[@paullavallee1631]

That tool is worth more than my entire reloading setup lol

[@jturner5227]

Does this change base to datum line on the brass? Not that it means anything when sizing after. The brass has to somewhere.

[@rollsizer5623]

It mechanically works the brass back to factory

[@bluegunshooter9823]

Please! What is a "Klicker"? Thank you!

[@talon0863]

OK thanks

[@CplSkiUSMC]

Okay, so this is just sizing the web but that portion of the case obviously is never annealed and remains hardened... are you finding any spring back or varying amounts of spring back?

[@rollsizer5623]

The rollsizers are adjusted to accommodate the spring in the case

[@CplSkiUSMC]

@@rollsizer5623 That's good to know. I could see it being useful in reconditioning older brass that despite being annealed regularly has grown fat around the bottom.

[@benjaminkiser2938]

What about belted cases. Looks to me rhat you could not use it on belted cases.

[@FClassJohn]

@@benjaminkiser2938 no, it can’t be used with belted cartridges.

[@paulwatterson5992]

If the case is tampered and the wheel is not, I can't see this machine working correctly. Am I missing something?

[@rollsizer5623]

No it works really well. The parallel section blends into the sizing dies nicely.

[@talon0863]

Is "clicker" case head separation?

[@rollsizer5623]

No. It's a bulge at the base that locks up the bolt from opening smoothly.

[@signsfollowing]

They see you rolling; they hating.

[@FClassJohn]

Reloading they tryna catch me rolling dirty

[@howardschwartz1462]

how does this differ from using a small base die???

[@rollsizer5623]

Small base dies squeeze the brass more (where they can reach) to try and pull in / size the bulge that is LOWER down.

[@billsomebody4151]

pretty sure a lee sizer will do that job for a fraction of the price. lee will make any bushing you need and it would probably do the job faster too. as fast as you can pull the handle.

[@rollsizer5623]

Nomatter what die you use it cannot remove the bulge John shows the limit of his custom dies and the rollsizers work below this line.

[@tires2burn]

Sounds like a clicker is the worst thing in the world. WHats a clicker?

[@patrickshannon4854]

What is a “clicker”. I’ve never heard the term before.

[@mickroberts5166]

Great for pistol however it does nothing small base die does not already do

[@dennispeltier6142]

😊😊😊😊😊

[@le3045acp]

what in the heck are clickers

[@michaelthompson7570]

No way a competitive shooter or a wanna be,,just a shooter who likes to use military brass for my varmint shooting for cost reasons. The small base dies help but at the risk of a stuck case from over reaching my equipment,,,this would be so helpful…..

[@magic4221]

Thanks, Very informative. Really nice tool.....but I wonder if a small base die, using a single stage press, would give us the same dimensions?

[@rollsizer5623]

No. Sizing dies cannot full.length size. Also the small base dies work by squeezing the section of the case much tighter (read here undersized) to bring the bulged section into spec

[@leonardogarcia2506]

Perfect for my 300 wsm and 7 prc. Also the 6.5 and 300 prc cartridges. Some people are still getting clickers after using the prc-w and prcw2 reamers. This tool may be the answer for clickers and max loads.

[@robinepps7274]

I need this for my 37xc brass!

[@archangel20031]

AT $950, I'll not be getting one in this lifetime!

[@dhooter]

Dude has almost 4k in Booger bullets that I can see lol. 😂

[@aaron.from.winchester6744]

Doesn’t look like it would work for gas guns very well.

[@rollsizer5623]

Yes. It allows for consistency in light recoil sprung guns and gas guns

[@hgwtpaladin8070]

Sorry, pal, but this is another gimmick to take money out of someone's pocket. There are all kinds of gimmicks that people think they need to reload. for $ 49.95, but wait, if you order now, I will send you a second one absolutely free. I've been reloading since 1979, and I'm still reloading to this day. I've never found the need for this item. It's like so many other gizmos that people try to sucker you to buy because they want your money. You get two to three dies depending on what you're reloading. Inspector brass, when in doubt, throw it out. Clean your brass, size your brass. Trim your rifle brass if needed. Chamfer the inside outside of the case neck. prime it, powder it, then seat and crimp it. And I clean mine again with a vibratory cleaner after its Reloaded. Reloading is fairly simple. People try to complicate it with gimmicks. Things you just have to have.

[@JohnDoeEagle1]

Except they weren't loading 9mm to +P or +P+ charge levels (for regular target practice) back then. The .40 S&W, 10mm and 357 SIG didn't exist then either. It's not a gimmick and you will 100% have a case rupture or KABOOM if you don't do something else besides use a regular sizing die. While I don't have one of these I use a Redding Carbide GrX die on my .40 S&W, 10mm and 357 SIG brass. I've never blown up a gun while many other have. I wonder "what" they missed?! Hmmmmmmm

[@colloidalsilver1096]

cfyt

[@TheMajictech]

Why o why would anybody ever resize dirty brass. Just don’t. . . . .

[@brendavanorden9550]

This is way over thought for the prep of brass and its longevity. With all the gadgets out there now one should buy a lathe and mill. This roller contraption only pushes on the high side of the tapered brass where the bearings meet. Unless these bearing surfaces can self align with the case your not doing shit. This a novelty IMO. You were measuring where the brass doesn't expand. You need better tools and knowledge. The calipers where you measured from is to low. The only part that will expand is above the case head. If the case head expanded you have flattened the prime pocket. One way to see if the brass is outside the specs is to place it in a lathe on a fixture you will have to make. Then run a indicator from the case base to the neck.Sorry for the bashing. But this is a joke

[@JoshuaCavender-l8d]

I understand you're trying to sell something, but the First Words out of your mouth were a lie. Brass is not getting hard to find. So I'm done listening to you

[@NiteQwill_]

Oh, so let's ignore that Lapua stopped production on some brass due to geopolitical events?

[@Patrick-xd8jv]

$950

[@aaronsmith7854]

I'm struggling with clickers at the moment. Looks like a great tool sucks it's so pricey.

[@Greg-v7n]

Back off charge weight until the clickers go away. Don’t blow your face off!. You might consider a lighter bullet, or more suitable powder

[@finalmidnight]

It is the price of 500 cartridges, depending on what you shoot. If you don't shoot 500 in a year, then you probably don't need one.

[@rollsizer5623]

Not cheap no. Not cheaply made.