ROTOFLEX replacement and HUB rebuild - Triumph GT6

[@graemelliott3942]

Nice work Elin! I like seeing your mistakes! As a mechanic who works on a huge variety of cars over the years we are always learning something new! The best order to take components apart and the sequence back together. This either comes with experience or watching other’s mistakes as you mentioned! Cheers Mate!

[@tomtugboat]

Great job Elin ! Hard job but you did well !

[@willymcbillyface3275]

nice work! I just finished my mk3 hubs, my process involved a shed load of assembling then adding/removing shims and re-torquing to check float. What a PITA

[@omphaloskeptic4989]

Elin, thanks for taking us all along for the ride on this job; it seems like it was a bumpy one! I'm wondering if someone knows a DIY trick to determine the shim stack necessary without having to shell out for a depth gauge set?

[@blackwell1384]

I have a bearing packer similar to your green one. I use mine in my vice. I think that’s why there are those ribs on the bottom. You can crank the vice and watch the grease appear between the rollers of the bearing through the clear sides. Very enjoyable video. I learned to drive on my dads 1963 spitfire with a bad clutch

[@wayne9518]

I have a set of those 2X4 tools. Different lengths for every application 😂

[@crasbee]

49:18 There's another way for packing bearings with grease which is super simple and does not make a big mess. You can buy Mini Grease Guns (for example Hazet 2162M, they are sold from different companies). They have a pointy tip and shoot out the grease at a high pressure. You can get the tip between the bearing race and the cage and completely fill it up with grease without making a mess. Very easy on the hands, no special tools to keep around or clean up afterwards, just a small grease gun that is very useful for all kinds of other applications as well.

[@brynhughes2285]

Hi Elin. Too late now, but Mitutoyo also has a short base (2.5 in) depth micrometer that might fit the bearing without using a spacer.

[@concerneddriver9744]

Elin, you commented that you don't want to charge the customer for your learning process, after 20 years of marriage I still haven't been able to learn the one handed unhook trick!

[@jabberwockytdi8901]

Not sure why you would put the outer bearing and seal on the wheel flange? Put the inner race in the hub and then the seal, then draw the wheel flange into the hub over the outer drive shaft with the hub nut ( or over CV joint if converted or on front axle of FWD cars) that saves mucking around pushing the seal into the hub afterwards and it's also how it's described in the workshop manual.

[@wayne9518]

Those rubber couplings work best in strictly rotational force applications. When the input/output moves in and out life is greatly shortened.

[@gerardcianciulli5881]

Gt6 makes it happen down the highway yachchavh Right ✅️ on 🎉

[@bernardwarr4187]

Any criticism of the Rotoflex is unfounded, bearing in mind they are used on the GT40 and provide the transmission with a degree of mechanical shock and vibration insulation

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

But nearly all new replacements are made from second rate rubber and are nowhere near the quality of the original OEM joints….. Hopefully the ones fitted will prove me wrong ! But I’d be very surprised if the new (Chinese ?) hub bearings are as good as the genuine ones that came out…. I have visited Timken and SKF factories in the UK but I think a few have closed now…..

[@wayne9518]

POs do it right. DPOs do it haphazardly!

[@carlelliott6758]

I did the same as nigel Barton, lot easier, one observation though what about the outer wishbone bushes, larger version of the front trunnion bushes

[@marknilsson5782]

That right rear wheel and tire need to be rebalanced! You never want that much weight on one side. Try rotating tire on rim 180* and retest it for balance.

[@cheftush]

First just for fun 😉

[@kge420]

You should get a British car and work on it. It can be very rewarding.

[@cheftush]

@@kge420 😁

[@nigelbarton8350]

Interesting video Elin, but is it me or was it all more complicated than it needed to be? I have done these by just adding shims until I had some play with the hubnutnut right, then just used feelers between the hub nut and bearing. Then just add or remove shims to get the right clearance. Takes about 10mins per side?

[@pda49184]

Quite a deceptively involved job Elin.. Your video will come in 'very' useful to those who haven't done this before.

[@BruceBoschek]

My unnecessarily long comment just got lost down the tubes, so I'll just say thanks for another valuable video, Elin.

[@craigbabe1265]

The bearing retaining nuts are spec'd to be torqued so that the axle shaft is put into tensional stress, allowing it to achieve its design strength. Therefore the shims are needed to prevent the bearings from binding. MGB front axles are similar.

[@bernardwarr4187]

No, it’s so the drive flange is locked in to position, allowing the power to be transmitted. If the nut is left loose, the splines will shear in a short time.

[@achmadosman9807]

😂brings forth memories of my 1967 mini. Bought a replacement rotoflex and cut the straps before installing 😂. I did eventually get it fitted but only after a massive effort. . You installed yours correctly.

[@bernardwarr4187]

I think the original Minis had the 4 legged spider? With U bolts

[@paulmuff9883]

On the hole a good informative video, I would like to add that in the U.K. when I did this job on my Vitesse the shim’s were readily available on eBay you could buy them separately or in a pack of a a few of different sizes and after doing the dry assembly I used a DTI to check for end float. Good video and enjoyable to watch.👍

[@iceman9678]

Question and comment. How come you don't paint the hub assembly once it's been cleaned & stripped? Overkill? I like the long format videos. Keep them coming

[@jabberwockytdi8901]

If you don't have an impact it helps to loosen the rotoflex bolts before starting in on the rest of the job they can need a huge amount of torque to break loose and that's pretty much impossible with the drive shaft flopping about.

[@craigwiest772]

Huge job well done. Forgot you had a press to put the bearing race in. I freeze the race and heat the hub to make installation easier without a press. Would recommend using grease on through bolts so the next guy doesn’t encounter frozen bolts. Lots of grease. Probably why it came apart so easily.

[@mikeyc6563]

excellent job

[@leonguyot4991]

The thin NYLOC Nut I use is from the end of a gearbox on the Spitfire 1500, with just a little orange loctite

[@kge420]

My thoughts when I was going to reassemble mine/yours now, was to drill and tap the bearing carrier for a grease zerk. Any thoughts on that?

[@leonguyot4991]

INCREDIBLE, I have never ever seen a hub come off that easily, nor for that matter have I ever seen the long lower bolt come of so easily - those are usually rusted solid into the vertical link!

[@enochhammer70]

Getting ready to do the rear suspension on my rotoflex GT6. Now, I am not as scared.

[@michaelrogge1152]

Elin who did you go to for your CV Joint's for your GT6 I would like to do the upgrade as well Mike

[@redfoxclassics]

Thanks Elin, got my GT6 coming up so it’s good to see how those go together.

[@michalmusil6611]

Great video! Just a pity that its too late,.As we were doing this 2 months ago 😂❤😊

[@MrMikeyspfx]

Great video. I now wish I owned a gt6 😜

[@norton794]

Had the same type of rotoflex units on my 1972 Lotus Elan Plus 2s 130 5 speed what a pain they were, lasted about a year at a time before disintegrating 😡😡

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

Yes there was a Wheeler Dealers program where they did the CV conversion to an Elan……

[@stevesutton1991]

I'm second

[@stevesutton1991]

Chef cheated

[@cheftush]

@@stevesutton1991😉

[@kge420]

You’re first among mortals.

[@goofballgarage]

I did that job last winter .. and i fxck up the messurements/shims …. So i have to do it again … 🥹🥹🥹