Rotted Sink Cabinet Floor--How To Fix

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

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[@redformansfoot5718]

If you're gonna cover up that mold on the original cabinet base, you need to 1) make sure it's completely dry (use a moisture meter) 2) encapsulate it with a product like Fosters 4020 otherwise, the mold will continue to grow as long as the particle board is still damp, further - the glue used in holding the particle board together is a food source for mold. I am and Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certified Mold Remediation Technician and I've been in the fire and water restoration industry for 20+ years and have completed and cleared (passed when the IAQ testing was completed) on probably 50 mold remediation projects over the course of my career. Of course, it's easier to just cut the belly out of the base and get rid of the molded area altogether - the cabinet won't fall apart if you leave 2" of original bottom around the perimeter of the cabinet interior, and then bridge it with plywood. You'll also want to fill the gapping around the drain line and water supply lines with 100% silicone caulking to prevent future moisture from migrating through those gaps and continuing to provide moisture underneath the bridging plywood.

[@raulgutierrez1093]

💯% l agree! He is Lucky nobody see that that's no good!!👎👎👎

[@TG-bz3wu]

How do you attach the plywood you set in the hole?

[@redformansfoot5718]

@@TG-bz3wu you're setting it on top of the lip of the original bottom that you left (see the 2" comment above), so a 1/2" piece of plywood (real wood, not particle board) could be glued and tack nailed to what remained. If you don't have enough cabinet bottom left, take it all the way out, use a 2x6, rip it down to 3 1/2" (the height of your toe kick, or shim 2x4's to a 3 1/2" height, but I would rather rip down the 2x6 as it would definitely be more sturdy). Toe nail them to the subfloor if you like, or just glue the plywood to the top and run a few tack nails down into the 2x4's and let it just sit there inside the cabinet. If on concrete, make sure your 2x material is treated, but the plywood doesn't need to be, and you'll have to glue the ripped 2x6 to the concrete as well using construction adhesive). Put your contact paper over the plywood, or paint it or leave it bare if you like and viola, new cabinet bottom. Or, you could alway completely remove the sink base cabinet, take the face off it and have the box rebuilt. The former is a cheap, quick fix. The latter would run you at least $600 for a cabinet maker to do, and about $175 if you have the experience and ability to build the new box yourself.

[@lmiller1413]

​@redformansfoot5718 thank you!!!

[@gregmize01]

cool story bro. no one's gonna do all that.

[@VajraHeartNorthStar]

With my DIY version, I made sure the bad wood was completely dry by fanning it for a week. Then I lightly sanded and cleaned/vacuumed the old bottom. I caulked some edges and filled surface depressions with a spackle and let it dry. Then I primed the whole cabinet with mold killing primer. After that dried, I painted with a really good exterior grade paint. Then, I primed, painted a new floor on top of that! It was a lot of extra work because I didn't want to just cover the old, gross particle board with a new piece. That wouldn't feel complete to me. I tend to be more detailed and thorough. Just my lay person's two cents worth! 🙂 As some others suggested, slightly tilting the new piece forward would be a good idea too. That way any possible future leaks will flow to the floor in front of the cabinet and be noticed sooner, instead of just pooling inside the cabinet.

[@amf004]

i was thinking the same, just putting new over the old stinky board, Im going to use your above tips ;)

[@KellyLeAnne]

What kind of spackle did you use? I think I may try your method!

[@rickybobby9196]

Hello, I'm glad you didn't cut off the comments on this video after hearing over 400 times "remove the rotted wood," but this video gave me the information I needed to replace my cabinet floor, thanks. This is the price you pay for transparency.

[@abandonbelief]

Too bad the mainstream media has an agenda and won't allow comments on their youtube posts of theirs... hearing the other side or allowing people to discuss the story or ask for your references and sources for which the information was credited or to discredit, that is the true injustice isn't it?

[@RXSVN_2]

@@abandonbelief Well at least we can rely on the "fact checkers". Oh I forgot mainstream media runs that too.

[@abandonbelief]

@@RXSVN_2 Monopoly on Human Farming

[@CraigP-z4t]

​@@abandonbelief This is a video about fixing a rotted sink cabinet floor and you're in the comments bitching about the mainstream media. That whole having an agenda thing, think it's contagious??

[@CraigP-z4t]

@@abandonbelief Complaining about the mainstream media on a video about cabinet repair - individuals that post unrelated nonsense in the comments forcing channels to turn them off, that's your true injustice. It's not some secret agenda.

[@btenny511]

I've done many of these also - decided early on to replace it with one piece of plywood so I asked permission to remove the center style and attach it to the left door. I wasn't sure how she'd like it, but it was a HUGE hit and I've done that every since - makes an amazing impression, and of course a much better job. I agree with many of the comments to NEVER leave rotted wood, especially anything damp or mildewy ... ALSO: the finishing touch of mine is always to put plain patterned vinyl tile (sheet goods - one piece) down and seal all the way around with clear silicone so there's NO chance for it to EVER reoccur :)

[@11pnevill]

Nice idea I will consider that approach. Even so this was a great video that the producer created.

[@MH-zg5yw]

Can you replace it with cement board?

[@anitajiro1708]

I would love to see how you removed the center piece and attached it to the left door. Trying to picture it. I'm about to replace my own cabinet bottom.

[@caverli]

@anitajiro1708 Removing the center stile and attaching it to the back of one of the doors is pretty clever, but the user will always have to shut that one door before the other. More importantly though, it removes the structural support for the sink, and the center of your counter.

[@adaly4649]

I ended up hiring a handyman for time's sake to do this repair, but I try to research as much as possible beforehand (to the point that I could theoretically do it myself) so that I can make sure they are doing good work. I demolished all the rotted wood before he got here and had him build a frame using scrap lumber to bring it up to height from the concrete floor. Because we were also replacing crumbling, rotted out toe kicks, he surprised me by slipping it up underneath *before* installing the new toe kicks. That way he didn't have to cut the plywood in half at all, which was a clever solution I hadn't stumbled across in my research.

[@andsh5670]

did you cut all rotted floor on perimeter, from wall to wall? Thanks

[@TonyMontgomery18]

I tilted the floor slightly forward so any future pipe leaks will run out onto the floor and be noticed right away instead of having time to cause mischief.

[@mariesacul722]

Thank you Tony! What a great idea. Thanks for sharing that. And how about adding contact paper for some protection from any possible leakage?

[@TonyMontgomery18]

Yeah sounds good, I covered the plywood with leftover kitchen floor linoleum and sealed around it with caulk....basically waterproof.

[@logan5326]

@@mariesacul722 ….that’s a great idea! 👍🏻👌🏻

[@SharonDeLaCruzVideo]

Thanks for these helpful tips. I'm a first time DIY do it myself project. Very helpful.

[@KathleenEngelman]

I didn’t know how I was going to address the pipes coming up through the floor, or the dip in the middle. Other videos had one cut the pipes. That’s above my pay grade. Thanks so much for showing us a quality yet easy workaround!

[@bonniekornfeld6662]

Love your videos. When I was in high school I wasn’t allowed to take shop class because I’m a girl. Ridiculous. Just dated myself. 😆 I love working with wood and doing home repairs. Very satisfying to get the job done myself. Less expensive when I have good advice before hand. Thank you!

[@beaukneaus]

Good for you! Don't let anyone tell you a girl can't fix a washing machine or do a brake job. With the right tools and a little know-how, anyone can do these jobs themselves.

[@gurubhaikhalsa9337]

Same here! Ridiculous sexism! But I thumb my nose at all of them now and have tools tools tools!!! Ha haaa!!!!

[@lambertj.2892]

cut out the old, put in the new. that's the only way to do this job correctly.

[@CTRwannaB]

Exactly what I do Why leave the old, moldy and rotted board in there 😅

[@American-Plague]

Exactly what I thought only 40 seconds into this.

[@abandonbelief]

Hell yes, I remove spores on drywall all the time and the only way to keep them gone is to remove the soiled water damage and they do like to climb walls too. You guys are so right.

[@mariesacul722]

In my situation. It's an absolute must. Its saturated. And it would destroy anything I put inside. However, I'm so glad that he put this video up. I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing. I would've thought to touch the pipes too. Didnt even think about condensation. I'm in way over my head. But I dont want to let my husband down. He's unable to fix stuff now. So. I learn. It's my turn to try. I hope I can not let either of us down. These videos truly help a person like myself.

[@johnwright6706]

But first make sure the root cause is fixed

[@pixelpatter01]

Another trick is to make a template of thin cardboard and just cut and tape it together to get a good fit to those out of square walls and oddball pipe positions. Remove the template after you make it and place it on the back of the new plywood bottom and mark the edges. You end up with the same bottom plate, but you don't have to be as good with your tape measure and it will accommodate not square cabinets. It also works to put carpet around small rooms like toilets.

[@leatherman651]

I wish I had found this about 10 years ago when I had to repair mine. I took out the damaged board, leaving a couple of inches around the edge as support for the new 3/4" plywood bottom. A 2x4 "X" under the new shelf gave it plenty of support, them painted and trimmed Found a shed snake skin about three feet long underneath the damaged bottom. Never have found the snake; hope it got in there during the original construction. Thanks for the video. Good information.

[@louiseroman1145]

Great! That's just what I needed to hear, I was wondering what critter might be under my cabinet board that is rotten. Now I know to keep a weapon and sprays handy when I go under there. Good grief.

[@jennessalynam7682]

Loved this video. I had this problem under my kitchen sink and at first didn't know what to do about it until I searched KZbin videos and you are the only one who does it this way, the easiest and smartest way, I believe! In all the other videos I watched they took the bad section out and just replaced it and that can ruin the structure of the cabinet, you said. I found your way made more sense and so much easier. So I tried it and I am extremely happy with how it came out. Thank you so much for sharing this with everyone! Keep it up!

[@f.demascio1857]

As a plumber & handyman, I've done this myself many times. Props for using a hole saw. I see too many carpenters square cut those spots. The better ones have hole saws.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

F De Mascio Thank you! You’re right, just makes everything so much cleaner 🙂

[@EasyLivingDojo]

That is exactly what he did, lol. He drilled the holes, only to square-cut em to install the board over the rotting board.

[@r.arabian3056]

I had the same issue in a rental, except the renter let it get so bad, the particleboard was like sawdust. So I cut it out, took 2x4's and framed in underneath. Essentially did what you did, but had a new frame underneath to nail to and then trimmed it out with some moldings inside the cabinet. I skipped the bridge step since I had solid wood underneath that was not bowed. Well done.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you Robert! That makes total sense, and seems utterly necessary in an extensive decay situation. Thanks for writing it in-I’ll remember it! 😄

[@dlg1776]

Robert Arabian Nice, i need to do that with my cabinet. Had leaky sink and didnt know till too late. How did you cut out the bad wood?

[@r.arabian3056]

@@dlg1776 Sorry for the delay. I used a dremel saw that sort of vibrates instead of moves back and forth. gives super control and precision cuts without being dangerous.

[@kajekage9410]

@@r.arabian3056 I have a tenant who had a bad leak too so going to be doing the same thing. The water soaked through to the floor. Did you spray it with any mildew and mold killers?

[@r.arabian3056]

Absolutely. Bleach etc... mildew resistant primer as well.

[@Dobbs321]

Great work. The trick is make your wood root proof. Pick up some rustoleum marine topside (oil based high humidity paint) from Home Depot. If it’s good enough for boats, it’s good enough for your sink cabinet.

[@malcolmallan9234]

instablaster.

[@WomanTakenBytheWind]

This is just what I needed, I have cabinets that are bowing in my kitchen and couldn’t find any solutions for that. This is perfect! Thank you.

[@user-yd1vl9lj5j]

After replacing with plywood, I take floor tile and lay them in. I set them with poly-seamseal for adhesive (instead of thinset), I even use poly-seamseal INSTEAD of grout to seal the joints. It's a cool effect when the doors are open revealing matching tiles to the floor.

[@inventor1v]

@J Radcliff. You can also use vinyl tiles and a bead of silicone for as good a job but less expensive!

[@jessicamacias5041]

you made this look very easy. I'm now confident that I can do this myself to repair my rotted sink cabinet floor. Thanks for this tutorial!

[@av92]

Does your floor or under your sink rather have a foul smell?? I just cant tell if its the rotted particle board or underneath it..

[@heyjude1101]

I had this idea before I watched your presentation, I had leftover FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic) that someone gave me. It's about 1/4 thick and completely impervious to water. I think you need a masonry blade to cut it, or you can cut it with hand saw. It's a job cutting by hand but do able. The point is, it's bendable so if you have that center support in the front of the cabinet you can romance it in, making it a one piece installation. then caulk around the edge. It's white with a slight pebble texture, i think it was used for a less expensive shower wall treatment which I would never do, you could even cut sides and back and make it a tray. No painting or waterproofing necessary, it's beautiful and clean looking. So that's my hack, thank you for yours. Note: all my pipes come out of the wall not through the floor so the installation was a cake walk.

[@VegasGuy89183]

I have had to do this repair in two of my rentals. The original cause of the problem is that renters don't report the leak for months as long as they can close the cabinet doors. Out of sight. Out of mind. I cut out the rotted floor. This allows me to spray bleach water to kill any mold that may be present. Next, I add a strip of wood to the back side of the cabinet before rebuilding the cabinet bottom. This strip of wood raises the bottom up 1/2" to 3/4" in the back. It creates a slope toward the front of the cabinet. I make a new bottom out of white MDF pre-finished bookshelves that I piece together. No painting. The final step is to create a tray for the new bottom out of clear vinyl carpet runner, making sure it goes up all three sides a bit. Now whenever there is a leak, the water runs out of the cabinet onto the kitchen floor. The renter steps in the cold water with their bare feet, and they are on the phone that day. I fixed the cabinet and the habits of the renter all at the same time. :) I call it a long term fix. One of my renters was so taken with my repair she told me she has shown it to her friends and mother.

[@bobgardin2347]

Good video. Although I used to cut out most of the cabinet bottom or at least a large circle, before laying in the plywood. Doing so removes most of the rot and reduces trapping moisture without losing integrity of cabinet.

[@janettavculek9308]

That old particle board is a breeding ground for black mold. Knock that old board out and carefully get rid of it. Your cabinets are just as strong as before. They do not rely on that cheap piece of wood for strength. Clean up all the cement below, paint it with some good paint and you will have twice the storage room as before. I have this same set up and have done this to 3 under sinks. It's great.

[@pandataylorcheek2751]

I came to the comments looking for a better solution lmaoo thank you!!

[@vickiwalkin6189]

Instead of paint, use flex seal spray!

[@glasshalfempty1984]

You're not going to have twice the storage space. The idea is cool though and you will have more storage space for sure. But this also won't work the same with houses that are not slab foundation. You won't have cement below, you'll have subfloor. The same principal might work though anyway.

[@goon5544]

I was thinking the same thing. is there any wood under most of the where the pipes lead? I figure that could get damaged but it sounds like it's just cement.

[@SharonDeLaCruzVideo]

Omg. Im a first time DIY project and you helped me decide what my next step is. Simple: clear out all the old stuff. Install the new. Make sure the leaks are addressed to prevent re-occurance. Thanks

[@christheother9088]

I always opened kitchen sink cabinet doors with great dread. People who call plumbers notice leaks right away. People who call handymen have lived with leaks a long time - usually without noticing or caring.

[@DVDSchner]

I could listen to you for hours! I love the way you explain things. I am now looking forward to fixing my cabinet floor. Thank you.

[@PraytheRosaryEveryDay]

Thanks for the video! The ligament patch joining both sheets from underneath is brilliant.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

You’re welcome Stephen! Thanks for watching !

[@TonyMontgomery18]

I treated/painted all sides of the plywood for cold wet PacificNW, covered with leftover kitchen floor linoleum, installed, sealed everything with caulk.

[@sandrajohnson2489]

This happened to a vanity in my mom's house years ago. I didn't know about making a new bottom for it so I replaced the vanity. What a hassle it was trying to reconnect the plumbing. Thanks to your video if it happens in my house I will know what to do. I forgot to mention that before I installed the vanity I sprayed it with 'Never Wet'. That stuff really works well.

[@billyblackie9417]

Ethan it's great to finally refer to you by your first name. Nice job and of course as you said removing the old floor could cause the cabinet to come apart. The finishing touches of covering plywood can be decided by the owner and also most kitchen cabinets have kick boards with screws which can be removed to take off kick board when certain plywood is fully bonded and settled then the rotted bottom panel can be removed if one wished to do so. Great job and suitable cheap fix especially if someone is on a low budget.

[@dymensions33]

I plan on tackling under my sink this weekend! Awesome tutorial. Thanks for making it easy to follow‼️

[@brandonburkey7066]

Great job explaining how to fix the cabinet and measure for the supply lines and drain. I would suggest after repairing the cabinet based on your instructions checkout getting an Under Sink Cabinet Mats that contains water.

[@andsh5670]

silicone one

[@firstmate015]

I love it when your videos are timely for my next repair project. Good job Nathan and thanks for those great tips. I know you would never just put plywood over a damp surface. That's not how you do things. they must be new viewers. I'll lay some left-over sheet goods down and caulk around the edges so it doesn't happen to the next owner.

[@GenerousWealth]

You did an awesome job of editing your video with voice over so you can focus on your work and say what is better for training us. Thank you!

[@CharlesinGA]

I have a kitchen cabinet and a bathroom cabinet that both need this. I keep looking at them and you are doing exactly what I finally figured out needed to be done. I'm retired now so its a project that will get done soon.

[@jellen7332]

I need to do this too but I am scared what I am going to find under there

[@lakeend5702]

Dude, that’s great just did same after watching ur video..... also fixed some wood rot on bottom of door on the outside. Watching ur vids have saved me some major cash!!

[@justalurkr]

I have mold concerns around leaving the rotted floor in.

[@timothymusson5040]

Rot doesn’t magically spread. Moisture causes rot. Remove the moisture, it stops rotting. No need to shellac, rubberize, or go crazy. Fix the water problem first, then make sure it’s structurally sound. The rest is just aesthetics.

[@karenmcbride1264]

What a great video! I have been trying to figure out the best way to repair my damaged under the sink cabinet. That was a perfect step by step for me to do it correctly! Thankyou.

[@ChrisGilliamOffGrid]

I hate running my pipes up through the bottom of the cabinet, but sometimes ya gotta. These repairs are a lot easier with the plumbing coming through the back.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

No kidding, Chris! Tricky and nerve-wracking to work around. Always gotta deal with whatever the house presents to you though. Thanks for watching!

[@Aurabay]

dont you want to spray down the wood rot / or mold disinfectant first? doesnt it have the potential of getting to other parts of the house?

[@gamachoduck]

Particle board (beaver board) is the spawn of the devil!

[@dodgedabullet670]

Mold lives and thrives in that stuff when repeatedly wet!

[@ffejkk37]

It was invented by contractors, for job security.

[@Doggylver777]

😂🤣

[@ronaldshank7589]

It's a sister to OSB...which is something I'd never use! It's too faulty. Pieces of shredded wood, held together with glue... that's a perfect recipe for disaster! When it gets wet, it expands, and begins to fall apart. It's not fire-retardant, and the fumes from it are toxic. It's one of the worst products on the market!

[@danielschulter7182]

Thanks so much for the content! I know less than probably everyone else watching about repairs, so these videos are very helpful to me. Is there any issue with covering the particle board like that in the long term? Like, say the rot is really developed, is there a concern of mold buildup underneath the repair? I say this considering the condensation from the pipes accumulating over time in conjunction with the already rotted board. You did mention how taking that board out might collapse the whole unit, but I'm just curious if there are any downsides to this repair.

[@MrBartoriginal]

Add some floor vinyl & a couple of a;aluminum angle at the front to help keep vinyl curl down & caulk the other 3 sides & around the holes easy to clean looks good too.

[@halwiggam5465]

This brings back memories. I have done this several times. I never did as well as you did. I worked on apartments and it had to be done for sec 8 to pass.

[@davidmcpa]

Would I need to be concerned with the possibility of mold under the particle board? And if so, how would I treat the under surface? Thanks.

[@RKyle-wx6rp]

Yes

[@grif13]

Newbie Mike here. Very nice. You make it look easy. Gives me some ideas for repairs. Thx for the vid.

[@Mr.Pop0]

On the last one I did I just blew out the bottom and cleaned it up. Then I built a 2x4 platform and sat my new floor on that.

[@joshwhatf]

Exactly

[@pcolapaddler]

This is how I fixed one.

[@MoonChild-nw6oy]

Yea thanks ! that’s what I was trying to figure out what to do mine is really too rotted I don’t like the idea of leaving that in place , doesn’t make for a healthy environment .

[@rhondaellison1376]

Thank you so much for sharing this process. I have cabinets in two homes that are in great condition for being 30 years old,except for floor boards. I will be referring to your videos when I start my DIY projects. Excellent video!!

[@raywright2401]

You can use half inch quarter round if you leave an extra half inch at the end of your board closest to the front of the cabinet. I've done it before and it turns out great. I've added a special additional service to these repairs. Caulk all the exterior edges and the seam in the middle. Then buy and lay the waterproof liner from any big box store (white is fine)--and your seam disappears. That wood will be protected for years if not the lifetime of the cabinet box from anything other than a flood.

[@Krazie-Ivan]

nice method to keep in-mind, thx! ...on mine, the tenant had let it go so long i had to replace the cabinet. i proactively did a similar repair/upgrade to the new cabinet with 2x4 boxed below the floor for added strength, and a sheet of birch angled towards the front so any leak will be spotted sooner & not hidden. water comes out to the tile floor instead of pooling under all the crap stuffed under the sink. soon as you use the sink, your wet feet tell you there's an issue.

[@mikel9280]

I’ve had to fix several of these. If it was just swollen bad, I would sand it level. Then I would either add mold killing primer then paint for a temporary fix or (preferably) glue down a sheet of Formica for a permanent fix. If it had rotted out or dipped real bad, I did similarly as HC did with the plywood. Any time I install new sink cabinets I preemptively glue down Formica and, of course, caulk the edges.

[@kenventura5567]

Excellent repair. be sure to dry out the old bottom first. You can do a lot to avoid the repair by caulking all of the inside corners when you first install the cabinets. I also caulk around any bottom pipe penetrations. Damage sometimes still happens.

[@davidzanny2653]

This happened to me and I cut out the warped floor, which I found a considerable amount of mold on the floor underside. I did not have an issue with my cabinets when I removed the floor. I recommmend abating the mold especially if you have allergies, small children, or elderly family members living with you.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Good call David. I always try to get clarity from the homeowner on how they feel about mold. Some folks just don't care at all. Others are really concerned. When that's the case, I often recommend a remediation specialist, because what you see is probably only a trace of what's there

[@erikgrincewicz7856]

What do you use to cut out the moldy cabinet bottom?

[@teknicron1080]

@@erikgrincewicz7856 YOu could probably knock it out with a hammer, get a good hole started, then you'll probably have to use powered hand saw to get out what you can.

[@rebornnowami2013]

I really like this. I wish you were in my neighborhood. The deal with my cabinet floor is that the middle part of it has fallen in and is a HUGE hole now so there is nothing to go there for support. The previous owners put a slide out piece in the back to apparently cover up part of the fallen in part. It wasn’t this bad when I bought the house 4 years ago. There’s also been several leaks.

[@mulliganstew72]

rebornnowami2013 same here. Right below the garbage disposal. I got some wall repair kit and put it in a big mesh square pin the middle and then used DAP sparkling to affix the square piece. It isn’t level but Fixed the issue.

[@Imwright720]

Caulking it in would definitely make it look better. As an alternative you can use the material they sell at big box stores for utility sink back splash. It’s white, thin and has a durable coating.

[@ddunnguard7746]

Our house was built in ‘59 -the house was the architect/developers home in this neighborhood he built for his family. I think he had a tornado-proof mind set when he built this place-every interior door jam is surrounded by 24” of hardwood. All cabinets of 1” hardwood. The structural integrity for a house this old is astounding. An undetected leak in the utility room deep sink warped the floor of the cabinet. Used a pry bar and chisel to remove the 2” of warped hard wood before hitting the undamaged 1”x4” base frame. Set a dehumidifier at the cabinet opening for a week and the moisture level reduced to below 20%. Trying to install the new 1” floor (2) inside the face frame of a 24” x 20” cabinet was impossible. I couldn’t even find a seam for the face meeting the cabinet sides. (?). Lifting the 18” deep well sinks-porcelain over iron was a no go. Thanks to your vid, I Installed a couple of extra stretchers in the base frame with the tops sanded down to accept the bottom shim piece, getting ready to cut that floor in half & install! (Screams of frustration were common). 🤬🤬🤬 Thank You! Thank You!

[@SarahB-os9ql]

THANK YOU! You just saved me several hundred dollars replacing the whole section of cabinet

[@cancer2361964]

Is this a temporary situation until it can be done properly or replaced. Can you do a video to show how to fix this issue properly

[@ettoolet]

Carpenter ants, termites and mold will love the little home you built them there. Lol

[@eatenbythedistance4178]

I kind of feel like the particleboard should’ve been completely removed the sheet rock should have been examined. And if all of that is OK or if there has been a small amount of mold accumulation use some chemicals to remediate. Then after that’s all said and done do a replacement with the play wood piece maybe add a skin on top of the plywood piece or paint it. I feel like depending on the amount of damage do you 100% full proof way to do it would be to detach the cabinet takeoff the face and remove sheet rock and insulation. Add chemical product for remediation if any mold is found.

[@madyeti3224]

Did this repair about a year ago. Wish I would have seen this video first! But me figuring it out as I went along turned out ok.

[@Raven-qj9gv]

You could simply tear out the old bottom of the cabinet and then put a two-by-four bedding in the bottom of it and then put your new bottom to the cabinet which is your pressure treated plywood on top of that.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

@Raven I like treated ply for its durability, but the stuff just looks so bad! The treating process makes the grain express, and causes crazy warp in ply layers.

[@SuperBullyone]

I followed your example but used 1/2 plastic Starboard for the bottom sheeting (from home depot). It looks great, and will never get ruined again. thank you for posting the video.

[@YukonHawk1]

I agree....a 2x4 base would prevent future warping. I wish I can do what he did but my cabinet bottom is much worse than the one he repaired. I actually have 3 pieces of 3.5 x3.5 mailbox post I will lay down on the inside once the bottom is removed. I also have a scrap piece of 1/2" exterior grade plywood I'll secure to the posts. It'll be dooms day before that thing warps again :-)

[@Layarion]

@@YukonHawk1 what does 2.4 base mean?

[@grandmaraps]

@@Layarion A support base built with 2 by 4 wood.

[@tripjet999]

You don't ever want to leave the damaged particle board; could be full of mold/mildew.

[@johnknight5639]

True. It should first be treated with the recommended anti-mildew product. Then a good coat of primer followed by an ENAMEL finish should be applied. Why enamel? In the event of a spilled bottle of whatever is kept under the sink or a leak in a pipe, cleanup (if caught in time) is a snap.

[@brianjonker510]

Lots of people complaining about covering up that mold. It is the customer's call how much money they will spend on labor. Suppose it wouldn't take much time to remove a big chunk from the middle & get 90% of that contamination out. Otherwise a solid video. People wont look for craftsmanship under there.

[@chilli299oif]

I like your channel, so I subscribed. This is a good repair. Only reason I would demo the old particle board would be to eliminate as much of that mold that was there.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Carlos Chinchilla Thanks for subscribing! You’re totally right-mold can be a serious issue in these spots 😪. I usually let the client pick the repair method, and sometimes if they have strong mold concerns, I tell them to just pull the whole cabinet and remediate the area. Only way to be sure.

[@j.b.9581]

@@TheHonestCarpenter Mice have been under my kitchen cabinet underfloor, so I will DEFINITELY tear out the rotted floor to check for nests! (with gloves and mask on, of course!!). I have watched 7 or 8 vids, and yours is the closest to what my under-sink area looks like. You used 1/2 inch plywood instead of 1/4"; good materials make for great results.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

J. B. Thank you! Good luck with the project!

[@Jim-Wade]

With some cabinets it is a simple matter of removing the screws from the center stile to get it out of the way. The cabinet here is a good example of one in which the stile might be easily removed. Some are not glued for this very reason, but even if they are the glue joint on that end grain may be broken fairly easy without damaging the face frame. For a primary residence I much prefer removing the old bottom of the cabinet rather than leaving old moldy material (and who knows what else under a new surface. Yeah, it takes a little longer; you have to build up a frame for the new bottom and you may have to remove drain pipes to get a single piece in, but you end up with a cabinet bottom that is flush with the face frame. Sure, most people will never notice, but craftsmen take satisfaction from knowing this, and from knowing that other craftsmen will notice if they ever have to do the job again.

[@Joe-vv8xl]

In addition, I would want to explain to the new owner/buyer that I replaced all of the damaged/rotted material.

[@mojoe3012]

I learned a lot. Thanks . But at a minimum I am cutting out my wet section. It already smells moldy 🤢 and looks kinda green

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Yah, thats too wet MO. I always let my clients determine rot remediation-but green and smelly is pretty far gone.

[@mariesacul722]

Mines this disgusting way as well. My husband suffered a series of strokes. I've got a house full of problems , a garage full of tools I don't even know what they are. And my husbands memory is gone or backwards. Meaning up is down left is right and front is back etc. To say I'm worried is an under-statement. I've never in my life been so reliant on youtube and comments too. Because not all people who put up a specific video that answers a problem I have . Not all of them warn of certain thing/s I need to do or be cautious of. It's really impossible for anyone to cover all possibilities. Esp in this highly litigious time we live in now. Unfortunately.

[@paulasnarr3421]

Should you paint the underlying particle board with a waterproof sealant in case it leaks down around the pipes?

[@jsubound2007]

Wow!! Awesome job man! I really appreciate the video! U made it seem very simple, easy and effective!! And don’t mind all of the critics with no credentials in the comments. If you’d found an even more perfect way of doing it, they’d still have something negative to say about it, yet and still they’d watch the video from start to finish.

[@hiker64]

While new to carpentry, for myself only at the moment, I can see that for commercial carpenters, repairs are generally a compromise between the best way to make a repair, and what the customer is willing to pay.

[@kajekage9410]

Leaving all thar wet rotted wood there is a terrible idea.

[@derekthegreat1114]

Karl Krauss laziest thing I’ve ever seen. If this belongs to a customer he should be fired!

[@pedrobrun9]

Yeah... That's what I thought, too.

[@P_RO_]

Sheesh- why all the hate? If you want a good repair you're going to have to remove the cabinet floor, attach cleats all around, add a center rail ripped to height, then put in the 2 pieces of new floor. Try selling that to a customer- I have, and out of dozens of these I have done, exactly one bought the proper repair while all the others understood that a repair like this was going to outlast the cheap-crap cabinet itself for about 1/4 of the cost. A no-brainer decision and a good one. This works fine- no need to hate.

[@dodgedabullet670]

LOL...it's an easy solution to prevent an expensive replacement of the lower cabinet! Of course the preferred method is replacement...but we do what we gotta do! I've thought of doing the same thing because some idiot installed my under sink water filter incorrectly and caused hills and valleys! Preventing "cleaning products and what-have -you under the sink is easily remedied by placing corrosives in containers like washing basins and similar! Not rocket-science!

[@jason4832]

I ran across this on a call today, i suggested replacing the cabinet...this repair looked ok once it was done...i hate particle board with a passion

[@thebnbaldwin]

I've done dozen's of these repairs. When they are that bad I rip it all out and rebuild it. If it's not too bad I sometimes use 1/4" wood overlay. I always finish it off with 12" peel & stick floor tile and caulk the edges.

[@eelneck]

Thank you for this incredibly useful video. Question: What do you recommend if the back panel is rotted out? (I guess the answer is to use the same technique for the floor and apply it to the back panel?) Thank you for any feedback.

[@queentwo1265]

I'd sure like to know about this part also!

[@diarmuidcdc]

This video popped up first on my search and wow it’s exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!!!! Channel name says it all Very Honest !!!!! Keep up the good work !!

[@abandonbelief]

I am a friend but i know its not right

[@smokeandmirrors111]

Just what I was looking for! A nice neat finish that looks Fantastic! We have 2 sink cabinets in need of this repair. Thank you so much for your valuable information!!!!🙂

[@jean-louisricard4928]

I finish mine off by installing 12" self adhesive floor tiles on top of the plywood. This gives it a nice clean surface that covers the joint and nail holes.

[@robanderson84]

that's a good idea!

[@dennisp.2147]

A more accurate and honest title would be "Rotted Sink Cabinet Floor--How To Conceal"

[@ATLTRANSPORTER2]

Lol

[@ATLTRANSPORTER2]

Good job though

[@SharonDeLaCruzVideo]

I appreciate your comments. As a new first time DIY project person, I'm willing to take time to do it right to avoid having to clean up a mediocre repair fix. Thanks

[@jeffjeffjeff]

Seriously, wtf. If I wanted to cover up rotten mold problems I'd do it myself!

[@stevecaldwell8576]

DUDE I WAS ABOUT TO DO THIS UNTIL I READ THIS

[@michaelw2108]

I want to do that exactly like my bathroom. I will rewatch this video. Thanks

[@logan5326]

This was very helpful. Thanks God, I don’t have water pipes running through the base floor, so the fixing should be smooth. Many thanks for your tutorial video, excellent! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

[@johnk4051]

Thanks for the video. My sink floor has similar sagging problem but I think there is also mold underneath the floor. Should I just add the plywood as you did and caulk the edges to seal it in or do I have to remove/treat the mold first?

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

John Kim You’re welcome! Mold is a tricky topic because it affects people differently. If you have excessive amounts, it may be worth removing the old bottom completely, or even replacing the whole cabinet if it’s too bad. Most of my clients seem unconcerned with it though, so I’m okay just cutting off the water source for the mold and covering over. But, it can’t hurt to mold clean before doing this 🙂

[@maplenook]

Remove it all. And note the disclosures when you sell.

[@damionbirge2158]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. This video helps me out big time. My sink cabinet floor is rotted out really bad.

[@nm9412]

I would cut out the old board and put new board. I would also cover the new board with vinyl flooring piece, so it’s water proof so it keeps the bottom new board dry. I do like your tip of cutting the board in half to replace it. The middle piece to connect the two board is also a great idea.

[@raulgutierrez1093]

💯% l agree that's no healthy for people special kids!!👎👎👎

[@Joe-vv8xl]

I agree.. this is the way to get rid of the oldy moldy particle board

[@edover50]

Nice fix, it looked good and if the client chose not to paint it wouldn’t be bad as is . I use puck board often for repairs ( puck board may be a Canadian term - 1/4” white plastic board available at most HD or Lowe’s). Think that might be a good alternative, just shim the dip and glue down, shoot a few brads and the edge would fit behind the face frame lip - save you time and mean more $$ in your pocket.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks Ed! I think puck board is indeed a Canadian term, but I may still start using it 😆 I’d say that fix could def work and would be faster, as long as the dip is sturdy enough, which it was in this case 👍

[@Matthew-21_22]

I'm not being critical, because I like the solution. But what would be the best way to deal with the wet particle board? Cut out or heat gun? Your suggestion for a kinda newbie DIY'er, thank you. Continued success!

[@gunmetlx7917]

Why would the cabinet necessarily come apart if removing the original floor? Is it structural and holding up the sides? I have to do this in a bathroom vanity, I'd much prefer to just cut out the whole bottom (or at least large sections which are rotted.)

[@tonyr8443]

I've done so many of these but all the time I just remove the old and make side supports for the new ones. Eliminates nasty molded material underneath.

[@noro305]

Tony im fixing to do the same to my vanity.

[@no_handle_required]

I removed my old cabinet bottom and replaced it with a quarter inch plastic sheet, using shims to keep it off the floor and level. All the seams matched that way, and it's waterproof forever.

[@nathanielswan909]

Thank you, I have been searching for something like this for years....My big question was the first thing you addressed. ......Why not remove the bottom but to build over it.

[@cazinger]

Love your videos. This one would not have been practical for the job I did a couple months ago, though, since the P-trap came down to within 1/4 inch of the cabinet bottom/floor. No room to put a new piece on top. Had to tear out and replace. Still love your videos.

[@chrisberry9016]

Good job. And for all of the "Union" guys milking their customers for a huge cabinet bottom repair, water damaged particle board does NOT automatically indicate ROT. It was just water. I have done many of these myself, and even drilled holes in the cabinet floor to look underneath with an inspection camera, and the underside was completely free of any mold, mildew or even discoloration. If you have any of that, by all means replace. Otherwise it is just sagging particles of wood held together with epoxy that makes it difficult for "Mrs. Johnson" to even stack her way too much stuff under her sink. "Mr. Honest Carpenter", great job, only one suggestion. I do this the same way (although I attach the two halves in a different manner), but instead of painting the thing, I pre-paint the front edge, but for the interior I use "Poly Wall" from Lowe's. it's a thin sheet of poly-vinyl wall covering. Only about 1/16" of an inch thick, and inexpensive. The beauty is, once you have your wood pieces cut, you can cut the poly to the exact size of the whole thing, holes and all. Once you have the wood in place, you can finagle the poly in place over it (covering the center seem and getting closer to the edges of walls and pipes) and then glue it down with an adhesive caulk, and caulk around everything. Now that everything is sealed, and above the original lip of the cabinet face, if this happens again, "Mrs. Johnson" will see the water running out of the front of her cabinet before it can do any real damage.

[@kevinchouinard9539]

You are very smart when it comes to plumbing. And very dumb when it comes to unions

[@Jeff-ro1bv]

Any advice if the moisture damaged the side of the cabinet as well and it has gone up a couple inches? Following this video would replace the base of the cabinet, but what about the side or back?

[@alant5757]

Nice clean job. I know some people say, “ I would remove the old wood”. I get it... you are doing “repairs” to someone’s house. If it was your own house maybe YOU would do it totally different. I still think it was a very nice clean job.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Alan T Thank you! Very true-I always try to provide the client with a good repair for their budget. And I always run exactly what I’m going to do by them first for input and approval. I appreciate you watching!

[@jimramsey3279]

Old wet board. Put a cup of Morton salt on damp spot and leave. Salt will turn to chlorine as needed. Also, caulk edges for big control.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

@jim ramsey Thank you for the tip! Another thing I didn't know! Do you have any training as a chemist? I'm posting a video on using treated wood in gardens this weekend and would love if you weighed in with any technical info. Totally fine if it contradicts my research in the video--I'm looking for answers more than anything.

[@firesurfer]

@@TheHonestCarpenter Do a search for "can treated wood be used for gardens" Plenty of good links. www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infptforraisedgardens.html Old CCA treated wood should not be used. (about 18 years old or more) ACQ treatments are fine. www.extension.iastate.edu/smallfarms/toxicity-concerns-about-raised-bed-construction-materials

[@SharonDeLaCruzVideo]

Going to the store to buy Morton's salt!

[@Amconrod]

Great video! I have this water damage and I’m going to attempt your method....there’s a smell from the water damage so how do one eliminate that before covering it up with new plywood? Thanks,Annemarie Conrod

[@firesurfer]

I had the same problem. Let it dry out, scrape, sand loose material. Use 1/8" masonite, Apply Formica, or equivalent. Trim to fit. Glue down using construction adhesive. On mine, there was no center post. If you really want, you can carefully cut out the center post with a Japanese handsaw. Install floor, reinstall post with pocket holes on the inside. Should be more than strong enough if you are careful. Don't do this if you're not fussy with your cuts. It might be possible to avoid that by just bending the masonite past the post, depending on your cabinet. Trim formica first and do the same. Use a contour gauge to fit pipes without taking it in and out.

[@jameskrys5286]

Formica or other liminates solves the water damage problem big time.

[@loktom4068]

I use easy to clean and durable sheet laminate and glue over plywood . Then seals all holes and edges where the pipes enters the floor with mildue resistance silicone caulking or foam spray or plumber's putty. Afterwards a clear plastic cake box cover right underneath P trap to catch future mishaps.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

These are all good suggestions, Lok Tom! Maybe someday the cabinet companies will start using waterproof laminates for designated sink cabinet floors 😁

[@P_RO_]

@@TheHonestCarpenter Good cabinets have sealed 5-ply 3/4" plywood bottoms which can take quite a beating before they need help. Not to be found in your average stores or even in the cheap section of kitchen showrooms. I've demoe'd many old site-built cabinets which were built this way and they were still solid after 50 years of use.

[@michaelharper7433]

I use Formica. When the cabinet is dry I float out the dip with patchngo. The Formica sheet bends so it can be wedged in in one piece on liquid nails then weighted down and no revealing edge. No front lip to conceal. Caulk around all edges, the goal is for all future water leaks to roll out on to the kitchen floor and the resident will always take care of the leak when it happens. This system will never rot again.

[@maryusen4937]

I had water leak under the plywood base.. can I pull out the plywood base and then rebuild as you showed? what reinforcement should I use when I cut out the bottom piece to dry out the floor below?

[@11pnevill]

Thanks I loved the instructions in this video and some of the comments before helped me to come up with a final approach!

[@Freon200]

Covering up moldy mdf, no telling what’s on the subfloor under there and growing! Needed ripping out.

[@rondie.x53]

Come here dude!!! I'm gonna try this. I loved this video. Thank you sooo much.