Round Counter for Dillon 1050

A digital cartridge counter for the Dillon 1050. Uses proximity sensor. FILES BELOW. Schematic has revision 7/30/24
Links
Pushbutton Switches
tinyurl.com/y7...
Proximity Sensor NPN NO
tinyurl.com/yb...
Digital Panel Meter
tinyurl.com/yc...
Brass Heat-Set Inserts
www.mcmaster.c...
Button Head Screws M4x12
www.mcmaster.c...
3D Model STL file
drive.google.c...
Note: This is a revised model which has 6mm holes for the Heat-Set brass inserts
I printed with Duramic PLA Blu-1; 0.2mm layer height; 40% infill; support from bed only (avoid any support inside the threaded tube for the prox sensor as it is very difficult to remove; printing time was about 25 hours
3D Model of Bottom Cover STL file
drive.google.c...
Print both parts at the same time. Place the main model upside down with the top on the printer bed. Print the cover plate with the counterbores on top away from the bed.
Circuit Schematic
drive.google.c...
STEP files for those who wish to re-design
drive.google.c...
Fusion 360 File v.19
drive.google.c...

[@Russell-1]

I’m very impressed. I also look forward to more of the .223 reloading series. Regards Russell

[@NoOnesWatching0_0]

You do amazing work!!! Keep it up!

[@amats3]

Really nice! You can also design with regular hex nuts. Design for the nut, then (in slicer) pause at layer height just above the nut thickness. The printer will pause and wait, drop the nuts in and resume print. Captured nut. Love your vids.

[@drobb4207]

Wow! That is very impressive Rex! Wow! Ok Dillon, wake up. Don

[@roaddog390]

You're too cool. I wish I had a Neighbor like you

[@RexRoach]

Me too!

[@crea8ivjr]

Thank you for sharing the plans

[@o2wow]

What a great idea! I have a mechanical counter on my .45 ACP taper crimp die and it's really handy to have a count. I do hope Dillon or one of their accessory makers gets interested in making a Rex Roach Round Counter. I might mount the electronics in a remote box and make a funnel/sensor assembly for each caliber/press. I imagine using just the funnel/sensor to send a load count to a computer control box Thanks again for sharing a great idea..

[@RexRoach]

All manner of possibilities. Let your imagination run wild, and thanks so much for your comments.

[@lllottolll8203]

I have two counters on my press. One inducer counts the rounds and the other counts the powder drops. If the counts don’t match, it would indicate a squib load or a double charge. Keeping track of powder measure cycles is more important than round counting.

[@hoyt1198]

Thats awesome i hope someone makes these to sell. Awesome job rex.

[@Corgitronics]

Nice project, extremely well done! Your CAD skills are impressive, I'm still learning how to do things in Fusion 360. I made my first loaded round counter using a little LCD pedometer connected to a switch that was activated by the press... so I get press cycles which isn't always loaded round counts.

[@RexRoach]

Thanks very much. You've hit the problem exactly-many designs count press cycles or count at some place on the press, such as the bullet seater. That last is OK, but you can still have a reason to pull one even after the seater. Well, no design of anything is perfect, so we do what we can.

[@DinoMartino1251]

Wow thats awesome Mr Roach...you should sell these Im thinking of getting a Dillion 750 this year....take my money

[@stephenwheeler7524]

Lockdown GENIUS!

[@additudeobx]

Awesome stuff Rex.

[@granthmeek]

QUESTION: what 3D printer do you own? Happy with the choice? Watching your video has got me hooked on learning 3D printing!! Thanks!!

[@RexRoach]

I have an Artillery Sidewinder and love it. There’s a learning curve with all of them, but it’s not rocket science. I like the large build area 300x300x400mm, or about a foot square by 16 inches high. I’ve needed that many times. It’s also virtually silent except for the cooling fan like a computer.

[@warrrrreagle]

That's just needer than grits Rex!!!! Can you make one to keep count of the number of cold beers I drink🍺

[@poormanprinting7837]

I just want to say I'm learning so much watching your videos..question are you going to make a part 3 of the 223 videos

[@RexRoach]

Indeed I will. It’s been a bit crazy and my attention span is similar to a three month old cocker spaniel puppy’s.

[@poormanprinting7837]

@@RexRoach lol thanks man ..I'm still deciding on the Dillon 750 or hornady LnL ...idk

[@johndavidson43084]

Did you ever make a version with a larger diameter drop hole to accommodate larger diameter rounds? If so, I'm interested.

[@RexRoach]

Up to .45 caliber. Email me with your specifics. [e-mail]

[@knallis.hjemmelading]

Nice thanks for sharing

[@thorkill8246]

Nice work. Impressive. If you make more they will sell.

[@michaelt.9372]

Id love to make one of these for the 550

[@Tommytat2]

Such an amazing job. Can I PLEASE buy one off of you?

[@azjakeh]

Very cool design. Would you feel comfortable sharing the f3d or step file? I would like to modify to fit the 550 and 650. Thanks

[@RexRoach]

Sure, no problem. Look up in the description area at the bottom for a link to the STEP files. I worked on a new design for a bit that MIGHT fit a 650. You'll find it and the original one from this video in the folder. There are also two files for the bottom covers. Good luck!

[@BrecRealty_Adventures]

Amazing, that would great if you share the Dwg file. :) I have a different company reloader so I can make some changes.

[@pookipie9857]

Is the magnet in place? Or does this pick up brass and copper?

[@RexRoach]

Magnet? There's no magnet involved. The silver thing sticking out the side is an inductive sensor that senses the presence of metal, including brass and copper.

[@drmikeable]

Awesome video.

[@stevend5508]

Thank you for your time in designing this. I used the STL file and printed which I believe is version 18. I downloaded the step files but there are different than the one I printed. I would like to make a few design changes to fit my press. are you willing to release that file? I use fusion 360...Thanks

[@RexRoach]

Since this video was posted, I've made a few changes in the design and you can download the Fusion 360 file which includes all those revisions. I believe the major changes were to make the bottom tube curve outward so as to clear the edge of the table where the press is mounted and to increase the "bore" diameter to 20mm to allow for larger/longer cartridges to pass through. I've added a link to the file at the end of the description. Enjoy.

[@stevend5508]

@@RexRoach Thank you kind sir. It's on the printer as we speak, using orange PLA..

[@RexRoach]

@@stevend5508 Great and you're welcome. Just make sure you got version 19 because I did not have a chamfer at the bottom of the "funnel" when I first posted the file. I made the change in about ten minutes, so I'm hoping you got the V19.

[@stevend5508]

@@RexRoach yes sir, I have "Round Counter 20mm Bore v19.f3z" is what I downloaded and is currently printing

[@RexRoach]

@@stevend5508 Whew!

[@TheJohndeere466]

I made a case feeder for 223 cases and I used an inductive sensor to shut it off when the tube is full. I notice that each time a case goes past the sensor it causes the motor to shut off for a split second. I guess it doesnt really hurt anything but it does cause the relay click all the time. Could I use a capacitor and resistor like you did to prevent this.

[@RexRoach]

James, I would suggest something like this between your sensor and the case feeder. tinyurl.com/ybxxslax

[@TheJohndeere466]

@@RexRoach Thanks I will check that out.

[@timmuscarella8299]

Do you remember what resistor and capacitor you used

[@RexRoach]

220k and 3µF Look in the description for links to the schematic and other useful info

[@pookipie9857]

Hello sir, could you send me a wiring diagram for this please?

[@thepapester4566]

Nice work Rex, Can you share the printing parameters you used for infill and resolution? Also what filament/color is that?

[@RexRoach]

Sure. I used Duramic PLA Blu-1 from Amazon. Resolution is .2mm layer height and 40% infill. I printed with the top of the part on the bed (i.e. upside down) and used support from the bed only. I put a gusset on the side tube where the sensor screws in so you don't need support there. On the first model, the support inside that threaded tube was awful to get out. You must have support under the sloped panel area, but it snapped off easily. My printer is a Sidewinder X1 or something like that. I've had excellent results with it. My first try at printing Angus's clearance ring was a total success with even the .15mm clearance moving with just a bit of early encouragement. Wait before downloading it because I just remembered I need to increase the hole diameter for the heat-set brass inserts. I'll amend the links information to reflect the change. Should be in less than an hour.

[@RexRoach]

Oops!! Will do

[@RexRoach]

@@thepapester4566 Cover plate now uploaded. Sorry for the inconvenience.

[@justinclark1348]

Parts says npn no sensor. My counter needs a + signal to count up. The npn gives a - signal. Cant seem to get the button or sensor to work.. any help?

[@RexRoach]

Justin, I have gone back and examined the circuit and I think the problem is an error in the schematic. The original showed the four wires connected to the display in the order of black-red-green-blue. However, when viewing them on the actual unit, the order is green-blue-black-red. I have revised the schematic drawing and re-posted it. The new file is available above or from: drive.google.com/file/d/1x1LoUQyDPWsTc5IpSXxqOAdqiYL8hue-/view?usp=sharing I hope this fixes the problems you've had. Please let us know the outcome. I'm very sorry for the error.

[@justinclark1348]

@RexRoach Thank you!! I did notice that, but I did have the display wired correctly, even with the previous drawn schematic off on wire order. I'll give it another shot and update you. Again, thank you for the help. All your videos are great, and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge too us.

[@Ben-on3ty]

Hey Rex, I don’t own a 3D printer but I love this concept. If you could shoot me an email or PM regarding having one built for me, that’d be awesome. Thanks!

[@RexRoach]

I'm working on a re-design that uses optical sensing and I hope will be less picky and work with a full range of case sizes. Watch for it later.

[@timmuscarella8299]

So I built one if these for 9mm and when it drops in some times it double counts not sure how to fix it. I did use the resistor and capacitor any suggestions

[@RexRoach]

I eventually went to a new design that used optical sensing instead of the inductive sensor and it was a "sluggish" enough circuit that the double count problem didn't happen. However, since you've already built this model, I will tell you that I experimented with a (hang on for some big fancy words) monostable multivibrator or "one-shot" IC chip. You can buy these for a dollar and change from places like Digi-Key, but it will involve a good bit of fiddling to get it to work. A better solution, I think, would be a ready-made time delay relay board like this $10 job from Amazon. tinyurl.com/yy3nfpad For some reason, my instructions here were cut off. I'll try again. Connect 12V to the DC+ and DC- on the new board. Connect the black signal wire from the prox sensor to X1. Connect 12 v+ to COM on the new board and connect a wire between the NO and the display where the black sensor wire was before. Remove the 220 ohm resistor and the 3 uF cap. Adjust the timer for a 1/2 second delay and that should make the relay hold long enough for the cartridge to fully pass the sensor. Even if the cartridge double trips the sensor, the closed relay will ignore it. Hope that makes sense. I have NOT tried this, but it should work with perhaps some fiddling.

[@timmuscarella8299]

@@RexRoach do you have a listing for the optical sensor I would just replace this one

[@RexRoach]

​@@timmuscarella8299 This should have what you need. kzbin.info/www/bejne/omSqZnqcmMt5rMU

[@helturflippad]

Amazing project, well done and thanks for sharing! /Sweden :)

[@RexRoach]

Thank you for taking time to say so. Much appreciated.

[@helturflippad]

@@RexRoach Yes it is one of the absolute most professional looking 3D print projects I have seen for reloaders. (And I dug deep my friend :) Actually you even inspired me so far as to start looking for guides to learn fusion 360! I put the project on print and theyre going at it full speed right as we speak, haha Oh and a quick question if it is not to much trouble, you lay some emphasizes on how the digital counter must look. However the link to Amazon and the counter in question is out of stock, how much I google the interweb (AliExpress, eBay, Temu asf etc) I cannot find the digital counter looking like the one you used for your project. Do you happen to know if another type would work or possible do you have any advice where to look for them? And many many thanks again mate! Kindest regards, /Tobbe a.k.a Silverbullit of Sweden

[@RexRoach]

@@helturflippad Indeed, getting parts for projects that are more than a week old sometimes seems like an insurmountable problem. However, I think there are several on Amazon that will work just fine. Here's one. tinyurl.com/23g4tvqn If you search for digital up/down counter, you'll get some on Amazon. If the price is more than $15 US, that's not the part. It needs to be about 39mm tall and 78mm wide. The width is the "wild card" because it will have spring-like plastic tabs on each end to secure it into an opening. The opening in the 3D printed part is about 77mm. If the opening is too small, you can file it larger. If it's too small, you can probably build up one edge with tape or some other clever approach. Electrically it should have two wires and a 5-wire flat cable to match up to my circuit. If it is something else, it will still have connections for power, clear, up and down so you can most likely figure it out. Also, the link I gave above is for a unit to ship in the U.S. via Prime. There were identical models that ship from China for less. For Sweden you can probably do better with one of those. I entered "up down digital counter" on Ali Express and got many hits on the first page of units just like the one I used. This seems to be a popular item from China.

[@helturflippad]

@@RexRoach Howdy mate, happened a lot here. A quick Question, I googled the partsnumber and it directs me to a 39uF thingie instead of 3 uF. Should it be 39uF? A bazillion thanks for the links and kind help! For some reason my 1050's has different brackets and it looks like a small tweak is necessarry, I will fumble with it a bit, would you like the alternative files in case it can help our mates?

[@RexRoach]

@@helturflippad I think there may be a lot of variations on the 1050 bracket, so there's little point in trying to fix the fit. As to the part number, I'm truly confused because it looks like you're talking about a capacitor what with micro-Farads and such.

[@lars-erikbtkerpetersen9466]

Please make it for the 650 too Rex... 🤔👍

[@RexRoach]

Looking at the 650/750 machines, it should work mounted on the bin bracket except for the "hook" which would hit the operating handle. I don't have access to either of those machines to try anything, but I could make a version without the hook and perhaps with a deeper lip to go over the bin bracket. I could provide you with the .STL file, but with no assurance that it would work. You would also have to use the strong mount or some other means to get the press located well above the bench.

[@lars-erikbtkerpetersen9466]

@@RexRoach - Thank you so much for your rapid answer... 👍 My 650 is - og course - mounted directly without a strong mount. I actually bought it with the strong mount but found it more stabile without it. And I build the table a bit higher... And that fits so fine... I have to find another solution for a country to my 650. Maybe somebody else is having the same challenges... Please krave a comment if so... Wishing you and other good reloaders a nice day... 🤗 Lars-Erik

[@RexRoach]

@@lars-erikbtkerpetersen9466 You might create a PVC guide chute to direct the cases to the counter which is mounted to the edge of the bench. At any rate, some creative thinking will be allowed at this time.

[@kingdaddy4200]

How much ? You selling these

[@RexRoach]

Whoops! Sorry. I'm not selling these. I do have a few of the bullet feeder devices for the Mr Bullet Feeder for sale.

[@michaelferreira9192]

hi rex i printed one the hole in the back is way too short would you be able to fix that

[@RexRoach]

Turns out Dillon has more than one style of bar layout for the case feeder and the hole location varies.

[@michaelferreira9192]

@@RexRoach ok ya i have the one then is there anyway way we can fix that mine need to be bolted it slide off the machine when it is running with the outdrive

[@superkillr]

I've played with it a bit and there is no way to orientate it with mirror commands so that it works on a XL650. Anyone have any ideas? Rex, if you mirrored it, then remade the threads and text it would work for us XL650 guys.

[@RexRoach]

I don’t own or have access to a 650/750, but after reading your comments, I looked at photos on the Dillon web site and it appears to me that this device with the "hook" on the left side would clip to the press right where the blue plastic cartridge bin clips currently. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong. Also, I have been developing a "new and improved" model that will work with any cartridge from .380 ACP to .45-70 Government with 550 grain Bullets. Yes! On the new model, the sensor points toward the rear of the machine instead of to the front so it matters not which side it mounts to. Now that we’re brainstorming, how about just putting the "hook" on both sides so it will fit either the 1050 or the 650/750. I’m going to omit the rear curved lip because that bar varies within different versions of the 1050, much less fitting the 650/750. Am I correct I assuming the 650,and 750 would be alike as regards this mounting point?

[@steve-vk6np]

More info on capacitor please.

[@RexRoach]

The values are not very critical. The resistor should be 100K to 300K. The capacitor should be 3 to 8 uf. Multiply them together to get the RC time constant which needs to be 500 - 1000 ms. So a 100k and an 8 uf would give 800ms time delay, more than enough. I used a 220k and 3 uf for 660ms, again just fine. The type of capacitor is not critical. It can polarized or not. If it is, then connect the negative end to ground. It should. be rated for the voltage you're using.

[@steve-vk6np]

Thank you. Link to cap you used, tried to find a 3uf like yours with no luck.

[@steve-vk6np]

@@RexRoach Will this work SPRAGUE RESISTORS TE1402-10%

[@RexRoach]

It will work with pretty much anything. I just grabbed the first resistor I came to in my junk box that was in the ballpark. It was 220K. A common capacitor value is 4.7 uf. Look on eBay for people selling a package of capacitors that include that range. Ten bucks or less and you’ll have some for future projects. If not, buy individually from Newark, Mouser, Digikey, Allied, etc.

[@steve-vk6np]

@@RexRoach Thank you

[@craftedballistics]

Hey there Rex, any chance you’d be willing to make one for sale? Thanks please send me an email. 👍🏼 awesome stuff!