Route setting tips & tutorial: Setting boulders with limited space & holds

[@Bobonautti]

Good stuff!!!

[@dedoers2170]

Du hast nen guten Musikgeschmack 🤘🏼😎

[@nickyman007]

thank you for the explanation, see you in malaysia 🎉

[@BetaRoutesetting]

See you! can't wait

[@TonyFisherPuzzles]

I have a question. Is there any resource that explains the difference between grades? I see people like Magnus saying stuff like "This is supposed to be 7a but I think it's more like 7a+". I understand that comes from experience and is ultimately opinion but where does that information actually come from? On Toplogger there's usually a consensus of opinion on grades when 20 or more people have expressed a view so there must be some underlying facts being used to assess a route. Maybe you could make a video to answer the above? Set a 7a route for example and say why it is 7a and what alterations would make it 7a+ or 6b+ etc.

[@anticoxchange7698]

In my opinion for calling a grade the experience is most important. If you have climbed many boulders (or routes) of 6C, 6C+, 7A, 7A+ then you kinda know in which ballpark the boulder lies. Next thing: you need to be aware of your strengths and weaknesses. If you’re weak on a specific grip type and don‘t recognize it you might grade the boulder too high (vice versa if you‘re super strong on a specific grip type). Sometimes, when a boulder has a crux with only 1,2,3 moves you could ask yourself: should a climber who‘s climbing 7A solidly be able to do that move or not. But that approach often isn‘t easy to apply.

[@simonrobbins815]

Grades are a tricky topic, the grade of a problem is subjective and usually based on what the first ascentionist (outdoors) or setter (indoors) thought and some consensus of the community's opinions. For example, how do you compare a boulder with a hard one move crux to a problem with 8 moderate moves that requires more endurance? Both problems might have the same grade but different people will find one or the other easier depending on their strengths and weaknesses.

[@BetaRoutesetting]

Hey, sorry for the late reply. Grades are subjective & personal. That´s why I never used grades in any of my gyms. And we usually don´t use it in any of the German gyms - it just doesn't make sense. Outdoors is outdoors and indoors is indoors. Moonboard has its own grading system, font grades are different to Swiss grades... even though it's the same scale... so no I really can't and also don´t like grades at all. I think it´s the worst about climbing the need to compare... Unfortunately our brain only works with levels / grades to pour out endorphins and compare ourselves to another climb or whatsoever but I´m sadly the wrong person to talk to about this. 2. I can easily make a video - and hopefully do this often - in which I show how the changes will make it more difficult / easier sorry for this maybe not satisfying answer ;)

[@sayalazmayeoje6536]

thanks

[@catgomez2940]

Yessss IDLES!!

[@oovlocityoo2671]

Hi I just made home wall. If you agree I would like to send you a email with my home gym. I would like to set the home gym for my daughter 9yo and me 46 yo.