Router Depth Setter: Wood Router Jig for Setting Depth

In this episode, I am making a Wood Router Depth Gauge Jig for setting up the depth of the cut of many router bits, for things like dados, rabbets or even inlay woodworking, and a way to get quick accurate router bit depth settings.
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[@kalaimaganperakasam3903]

What I like about Collin is his simplicity. A great teacher with great ideas for newbies like me. Thanks Collin.

[@pkgambhir6296]

lovely way of setting the depth of the router bit.

[@huwdavies5264]

A simple and effective way to get accurate depths of router cuts every time. Thanks Colin

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@tedfritsch3340]

What a great and useful jig...thanks. Going to make mine just a bit bigger so I can take those gauge blocks and store them with the jig.

[@urbanwoodworking233]

Thanks for sharing. Another excellent video. A great woodworker once said there are 3 ways of doing things. This topic is no exceptionMethod 1. Your method is great. As a slight improvement, you might make the base into a box to keep all your depth pieces togetherMethod 2. Drill multiple holes (of diameter large enough for the biggest bit) into a 2x4 and put in bolts and nuts in the centre of each hole. These bolts can be set very accurately to any depth and then locked in place with a second nutMethod 3. Lock your router + bit flush with any flat surface. Put you standard depth bar in between the depth rotor and the vertical depth bar and lock the bar in place. I use the steps on the depth rotor to incrementally cut your way to the final depth.If you don't have standard depth gauges, cut several pieces of flat iron and file them to size, checking with a vernier

[@knecht105]

That's to tips and thanks for watching!

[@michebre]

This is great. Thanks so much. Very easy to understand and create!

[@ahmadalqudsi]

You are a skilled teacher

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@davidcarter8932]

I enjoy your videos. Many good ideas. Just watched this one, but this time I think you might have gone a little overboard on the jigs. Just zero out your router on any flat surface, and lock it. Then use your brass gauge blocks between the turret and rod on the router to set the plunge depth below the work surface. The brass gauge blocks are most likely more accurate than any wood strips you could cut, and they are not susceptible to thickness changes due to changes in moisture content. I use this procedure to set router bit depths all the time, and don't recall ever having a problem with it. And... I have one less jig to store in my shop with limited space.

[@kitsuiam852]

I think you really don't need the jig tbh.....jus take your router with the desired bit and plunge it in any flat suface and then take the measuring block and place it in the touret and lock it down ...that way you'll always get the same results accurate everytime....jus a suggestion .... anyways great video as always .....cheers ...thanks Colin!!!!!😀😀👍🏻👍🏻

[@erictroutman1571]

Thanks Colin. Practical and useful as always!

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching!

[@BearCreekWoodworking]

This is a great idea and will save me a lot of time in the future! Thanks!!!

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome!

[@stevej00]

This makes me want to find more router tasks! Thank you

[@knecht105]

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Great video Colin! Thanks for sharing your good ideas with us!

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@faghihimohammad]

Thanks for sharing. :) This is a cool idea, but sharp router bits will press the wood fibers down and the depth adjustment will become inaccurate about 2 o 3 milimeters(I know, because I have ruined one of my projects in a similar way!), moreover humidity of air may cause the wood to swell a tiny bit and make this jig inaccurate! I think using something like that metal gauge blocks at the bottom of the jig, will make it much more accurate and durable.

[@knecht105]

Put a laminate on your wood if this is an issue. Thanks for watching.

[@faghihimohammad]

@@knecht105 I will try this tip! Seems like a good idea :) I really appreciate that you read our comments and care about them.

[@edwinleach4013]

Great idea. That is a will do in my shop! Thanks for the video.

[@knecht105]

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!

[@maxximumb]

Colin, why not cut out the whole channel in the 1" MDF and make a fixed 'staircase' type depth gauge where each step is one of your common settings. Leave a larger 1" step so you can add in steps of a different size should you need it for a specific job. That way all of your common depths are always in your jig and you can't loose one of them.

[@knecht105]

That's a GREAT idea! That will be for a future version on the jig. Thanks for watching.

[@davidhawley1132]

The steps would need to be wide enough to accommodate the widest bit you want to use with the jig.

[@TheMaverick1955]

Thought the same exact thing

[@thomasmarliere2505]

Excellent idea Colin 👍 Thanks for sharing this with us

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome!

[@grahamallen3941]

That is really useful Colin, thank you. Just bought myself a new router so this guide will be a great help. Love this video. All the best Graham🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@avalonbear61]

Great episode, Thanks for sharing Colin. Happy Holidays to all.

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@jerryjohnsonii4181]

Very Cool depth jig for an router Sir.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching!

[@scottlouis7785]

That is a good idea & not just plunge router

[@knecht105]

Yes, could work for a fixed router or trim router if you need it to. Thanks for watching!

[@harrydavis6903]

Another time saver. Well done. Thanks, Colin. Happy Holidays!

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome!

[@frankrodriguez1977]

Awesome tip. Going to make one. Thanks

[@knecht105]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@joecouncil]

Colin, why not just create 1/8" blocks and stack them together for the depth you need instead of all the different sizes, also if you either make them shorter or round them over they would be easier to store in the slot with the base.

[@knecht105]

Those would be some great mods! Thanks for sharing.

[@JustinSmith1287]

Unless the boards were perfectly joined by the 7th stack (*for 1/8 depth) the imperfections in the wood or even minor warping over time would lead to imperfect depths potentially. I think just planing boards to the correct thickness is the correct way to go, as seen in the video.

[@lintelle2382]

@@JustinSmith1287 1/8" masonite would minimize the imperfections that you accurately point out.

[@MarkMcCluney]

Nice vid as always Colin. Thanks for that good idea mate.

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome. Thanks for watching, Mark!

[@nperson]

Why the base? If you want a certain depth like 1/2", just lower the bit down to it touches the table and insert a 1/2" brass bar or something else that measures 1/2" between the router stop and lock it down.

[@knecht105]

It's to make sure you have an even surface, but necessary if you don't need it.

[@nperson]

@@knecht105 I still don't understand. Most router manuals show how to set the depth easily without a jig. Another advantage to this standard method is that the depth can be adjusted very accurately to any depth using drill bits.

[@adamharshman201]

Great content as always. I’ve learned a lot from your channel and look forward to seeing more

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

Good video Colin! Thank you for sharing it with us.👍😎JP

[@knecht105]

You're welcome, JP! Thanks for watching.

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

😎

[@jdaniels7449]

Good morning, You mentioned in this video that you have 3 different routers. Other than the router mounted in your router table, which is your favorite and why? The other two I am assuming, are the Freud and Bosch I see in the beginning of this video.

[@Bill.L.Carroll]

Nifty tip, there mate👍

[@knecht105]

Thanks, Bill!

[@mrhumptydee]

Cool idea 👍

[@knecht105]

Thank-you

[@davidharvey5672]

Great idea i will be using it. I like the blocks made like that better to have dedicated single blocks to avoid compound error. Do you have a solution to the thicknesser problem when you get steps in the ends? I think it's the transition from 2 rollers to one and back allowing the timber to lift slightly

[@johntailing5283]

Hi Colin, Only been subbed a couple of months, I just wish I’d found you sooner, it’s simple things like this that help bring my mediocre DIY up to the next level. Thanks to this I’ll be making sawdust in the morning! Thanks all the way from Essex England.

[@diybuildandlife207]

Isn't if the inverse for something beyond 1/2 inch? For instance if I need 1/4 inch and I put your 1/4 inch block inside the jig, the router depth will be 3/4 inch isnt it by using this jig? 1 inch minus 1/4 inch.

[@budwoodman1716]

Good idea. So simple and accurate. I am going to make one to add to my 'template' collection. Thanks

[@knecht105]

You're welcome, Bud! Thanks for watching.

[@billygarfield5520]

Great tip!

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@darrenvictor2648]

Hi mate, great vid, shows how this can make our life easier, thanks! About the name of the gauge, I find the name funny:)))) TURD... in English it means a big lump of shit... Wondering why it was given this name)))

[@mohammedkhalidhoosen5781]

Hey Colin. Great episode. Question though with regards to router bits. I understand shanks and also on what profile router bit to choose. However I get confused with selecting the size of the bit etc. I came across a sliding door that required the bottom of the door which runs parallel to the floor to have a 16mm wide by 5mm deep groove to be cut into it. How will you do that since a door is huge and all you have is a router. Plus in this case how can you change depth of cuts as required. Buy new cutting blades? What decides the maximum limit of how deep a cut I can make? What consideration should I take when buying a cutter then?

[@Bramsshed1913]

Great idea Colin and thanks for sharing. Cheers, Bram

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome, Bram!

[@BAHATI1943]

Very nice tip. What about your wooden watch?

[@knecht105]

Thank you. I got the watching from Amazon amzn.to/2S2YkFS

[@jimhester2004]

Fascinating, Colin. You have the best hacks on the web. This is another of yours that I have a real need for in my shop. By the way, I've been trying to find some 1" thick mdf, but not having any luck. Can you tell me who your supplier is? Thanks.

[@knecht105]

Around my parts. most hardware stores stock it.

[@jimhester2004]

@@knecht105 I have only been trying big box stores, and online, I'll check some hardware stores. thanks.

[@pedalman4595]

Simply get 2 set up bars put them on the table put your Router on top then let the bit touch the table. That's it your done!!!!!

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@carloduroni5629]

First, you need a planer to set all those different thicknesses precisely. Second, even if you use hard wood, they will be dented by the router bits. And finally, its a bit time-consuming (but if you've spare time...) I'd rather use a bunch of 1mm thick steel bars and pile them in the required number. All this provided you can't rely on the router scale itself, obviously.

[@knecht105]

Great ideas, Carlo. I look forward to seeing your video on this modified version of the jig. Thanks for watching!.

[@CharlesReiche]

Snazzy T-shirt!

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@tazman9807]

i have router that sticks. do u know way of loose or lubricating the Bars up....

[@atomiczombie22]

Genuis

[@YouHolli]

Don't be sarcastic.

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@markharris5771]

I'm really sorry because I have learnt a lot from your channel but I'm confused. I bought a little gauge with a ruler in it for £5. I’m very new to woodworking but wood doesn’t seem to measure what you buy and does vary. So how will precise measures work? If I want to go through 22mm wood I can set it to 22mm on my measure, but an inch would be too imprecise for the wood. To my very very limited understanding, it’s the measurement of the wood you are cutting that matters, not predetermined measurement. Or am I missing something?

[@jerryf609]

Use this to make a groove or dado into which you glue a panel at a right angles. The depth of the cut is how much you imbed the panel, not the width of the panel.

[@markharris5771]

jerryf609 Thank you, I see what you mean.

[@Rongoff1]

Why not simply use the built in depth gauge?

[@knecht105]

This is an alternative, depending on your needs. Thanks for watching.

[@Uncle_Buzz]

MDF = Massive Dust Factory

[@knecht105]

It sure can be!

[@russmartin4189]

When you mark your depth gauge wood pieces, the number on them should be the difference between 1" and the thickness of the wood, not the thickness of the wood. Those little pieces of wood just elevate the bit up certain amounts,. Since the MDF is 1", the number should be the difference, or the air space, between the wood block and router base.

[@jrsmez]

Russ Martin That is what he did, and explained it starting at 5:56. You can see that the piece marked 3/4” is obviously not 3/4” thick, it would be 1/4”. And the piece marked 1/8” looks like it is 7/8” thick.

[@GeorgeMinton-jb8ky]

great idea. Even this dummy might be able to do that.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching!

[@YouHolli]

The router has a depth stop for a reason, you might as well use that. lol.

[@tombaker3794]

Agree with you. Set the router bit flush with the bottom - on a flat surface, then set the depth stop up the exact measurement desired either by ruler or block gauge, then go to town with it.

[@dennisseemann571]

that's the simple easy way, and toms description is exactly the way to do it

[@trongod2000]

I think he left out a major reason for using this method he is showing. IF you have multiple router bases and they are different thicknesses this gauging system can be used to compensate for those various thicknesses. I got around the problem in a much easier way by marking the rules on the router with red and green marks which represent the other two bases I have. Simply use a knife to scratch in the exact place for one inch. Then use a felt tip marker on the scratch. Wipe off the excess and you have a reference which you can use a steel rule to make all the other depths you want. Then rather than drop down onto that cam as he did in the video, you just lock the plunge to the new mark that matches the base being used.

[@maxximumb]

The measure on my routers are both useless. They are both quite inaccurate. I have a series of 150mm squares of different thicknesses that have a 60mm hole though each one. Then I place the router base on the square on a hard surface, then adjust the depth like Colin shows. They just live in the plastic wheelie box that I keep my routers and bits in.

[@trongod2000]

@@maxximumb Can't imagine why the measures on your routers are useless. They are very adjustable to correct them and if your just talking about the thickness of the lines on them or the paralax error created by the sight being to far away from the rule I have to wonder what your routing. Wood expands and contracts far more than the tolerance you can get on a gauge block. Using gauge blocks on wood is a bit like using the measuring lines on a measuring cup to gauge volume. The tension on between the water and the sides is enough to ruin anything close to scientific accuracy.

[@pedrosarkissian1937]

You have to mention that you will have the diference between the base and the piece of wood you use If you use 1/2" block of wood you will have 1/2" depth of router, but if you use 3/4" wood, you will obtain 1/4" router depth

[@jrsmez]

Pedro Sarkissian He did mention that when explaining the different pieces starting at 5:56 in the video.

[@Zulfiqarshah-gb3bm]

No Understand sir