FAQ: What oil should I put in my Rover V8 Engine? Will this FAQ break the internet?

One of the most common questions we get asked at RPi Engineering is which oil should be used in the Rover V8 engine. Well in this video we give you the definitive answer based on our experience from 3000 Rover V8 engines built and many more repaired, tuned and supplied. In our minds there's only one correct oil for the Rover V8 engine, and here is why.
We apologise in advance if we somehow manage to break the internet.

[@EvilUnderTone]

Great vid. I do 10,000 miles a year in my 1976 P6 V8. I change the oil every 2,500 miles or 4 times a year. Especially after winter although I know some of you namby pamby folk tuck your cars into bed for the cold wet months. You cannot beat regular changes. I still get 60 psi oil pressure. A friend took a 1960's BMW motorbike engine apart. The bike had 250,000 miles on the clock and just one owner from new. It had never been apart in all those years. The owner was super fussy and changed the oil every 1000 miles. When they stripped the engine it was found to be perfect. Proof that regular oil changes are so important. I use Rye Oil's 20w-50 in my car. High zinc content and 25 litres = 50 quid delivered to your doorstep. Peace

[@patrickcannell2258]

❤

[@arttafil6792]

When I had my 2000 Range Rover 4.0 SE engine all I used was Liqui-moly full synthetic 20W50. The reason for the higher viscosity was the engine had 280,000 miles on it. I used Mann filters both air and oil. Since I used my rover for a company vehicle and drove it on the highways primarily I changed the oil every 5,000 miles.

[@jl1912]

Great video, following your recommendation I put this oil in my tvr which until this oil change has always had noisy lifters on cold start after long journeys. This oil, so far has resolved this problem.

[@You-can-fix-it-yourself]

Good video. I've run 20-50 for years in a 4.0L and it's spot on. Rover filters of Mobile-1 filters have no drain-back. All others are dodgy.

[@limpet7r63]

My 77,000 mile 4.0 Chimaera is running on this (changed by the seller just before I bought it) and it seems very happy. Oil consumption is negligible, and I'm getting a rock steady 42 PSI oil pressure at cold idle (about 1200 RPM) measured with an external gauge at the oil light switch port (the dashboard oil pressure gauges on these are notoriously inaccurate). The only issue it seems to have is a few seconds delay in the oil pressure light going out when started from cold (accompanied by a quite unpleasant tappet clatter, which abruptly silences as soon as the oil light goes out). The filter on the car is a Mahle item. I have a genuine LR oil filter to go on and another 6l of VR1 20W/50 so will change and see if it's a filter issue.

[@Leo-dk4we]

Very Good. My RRC with rebuilt 4.2 runs Valvoline 20/50 and my 110 3.5 runs cheap Comma 20/50. Both get oil changes with genuine filters every 6 months regardless of mileage.

[@RPIEngineering]

Good man

[@kennyh5083]

Which Rover V8's are the best to hot rod?@@RPIEngineering

[@kennyh5083]

The very best oil is Rotella, it is what's used in airplane engines and others where reliability is an absolute must!!@@RPIEngineering

[@fishingwiththomas]

Have been running 20-50 in rover V8s for 20 years with no issues. I change mine every 5000kms.

[@RPIEngineering]

Excellent choice

[@georgerobartes2008]

I used to run Valvoline 20-50 back in the 70s after designing a marinising kit for this engine . An inboard engine has little or no airflow over it and in a more hostile environment with salt water and normally running flat out . An alternative was Sunoco 20-50 . In fact the engine has changed little since Buick introduced the 215 c.i. all aluminium engine in 1961 . They also produced a turbocharged version in the Buick Jetfire . Synthetics are NOT based on mineral oil , but based on esters , diesters , polyglycols and fluorocarbons and derived by Germany in WW2 to replace mjneral oil due to lack of availability. Rover chose this particular engine for its ruggedness and long service intervals ease of maintenance as a lightweight replacement for the 3000 cc engine . In fact it had been touted that this engine had been run by Buick for 24 hrs after draining the oil from the sump .These attributes resulted in the problems that manifested in the 70s after long use . Back in the day the home service guy would adjust tappets, change points , condenser , oil and oil filter as a matter of course when the engine got a little rattly . With hydraulic lifters this didn't happen . The engines are notorious for heavy oil deposits internally mainly due to lack of oil changes and every engine I tore apart back then was almost exsctly the same , a thick layer of tar in the valley , timing cover , sump and block but miraculously in rebuildable condition barring sticky lifters etc . By the 80s I produced a number of useful replacement parts for the engine including high volume oil pump kit , valves , cam and manifolds for Weber carbs , and strict oil changes . Todays long service oils may have causd the problem to manifest again . Given the fact that the engine had run in turbocharged form during the 1960s in the USA indicates that any US multigrade oil would be suitable . Given todays standard in oils , even the supermarket grades , I would say that any oil of a similar viscosity index would be entirely suitable synthetic or mineral high end or supermarket as long as you change it often . It would be preferable to change the oil 3 times using say Britoil Semi ( a very highly specified supermarket oil ) for the cost equivalent of say once for Mobil 1, Motul etc .

[@patrickcannell2258]

Modern oils don't always have the zinc these old flat tappet cams need. Careful.

[@wjsj69]

Thank you for the informative vid. My question was will the extra zinc in this oil harm the cats? After reading about it on Valvoline's site, apparently it will not. So, thank you for the recommendation.

[@RPIEngineering]

Its not that it harms, clogs etc its that it was found that it shortens the life (who knows how much by, but even if it was by 2% it would have been enough for someone somewhere with red tape to have said right we'll we don't want that its not GREEN)

[@wjthehomebuilder]

This is the best oil to fry an egg in too!!

[@RPIEngineering]

:-)

[@jonboyle5341]

Excellent video! I have a 91 RRC 3.9 USA California emissions required truck. It has 220k miles on the clock. Very very slight ticking on left side head. Runs strong and goes like hell. Very smooth very responsive. I do not know if the engine has been out or heads done or apart in any way. My question is this; is 20/50 VR too heavy for a possible original oil pump? As well as oil galleys top end lubricating with old pump pushing 20/50. I am not rebuilding the motor or changing anything out. Its dead reliable as it sits. Interesting fact about this truck is that it had 130k miles at four years old. Lots of California freeway driving and all book stamped service until 160k from orig owner. Thats all I know about its history. Thank you!

[@jonboyle5341]

Im currently running Rotella 15/40 with a bottle of liqui moly mos2. Thanks!

[@RPIEngineering]

@@jonboyle5341 Higher mileage does not really tell you engine condition. Some of the best engines we have stripped down have been high mileage ones as they have been serviced well and do not do short journeys were operating temp is never reached. I dont see any issue with running 20/50 with what you have said. If the engine is worn due to age then you need a thicker oil to take us the slack in the tolerances on bearings etc (ideal a rebuild long term though)

[@jonboyle5341]

Thank you for your reply. It doesnt use any oil or leak anything so Im driving this one for now. I will use 20/50 VR at the next change. With this many miles and driven daily how do you..or what do you think about any oil additives? Im using Liqui Moly mos2 at the moment. Thank you again!

[@RPIEngineering]

@@jonboyle5341 I'm afraid you'll have to make your own call on the additives as it is not something that we have needed to look into. The Valvoline VR1 20/50 oil has all the properties that we have ever needed and we have hundreds (going into thousands most likely) of customers / followers running it too on new to high mileage engines without issue.

[@77appyi]

@@jonboyle5341 don't put additives in oil..the additive package is carefully formulated,, and too much of some additives can have a detrimental effect..i read an article a long time ago by a retired Mobil lab boffin

[@groundbeef662]

I loved this and will be following your recomendation, just one question i am struggling to find out the correct filter for my RV8, its in a Cobra Replica, and is currently fitted with a FRAM PH5443, as per you suggestion i would like to fit the right Rover part. but I can not figure out if it should be a ERR 3340 or GFE187 ( both of which do not seem to cross reference on the filter cross ref site) Ideally i would like it to be short and at least no longer than the Fram (110mm) as there is not a great deal of ground clearance on the car. I am not sure of the origin of the engine as i did not build her but believe it to be from a SD1. I have had 2 other RV8's but they were factory mgbgt's so had the standard filter with remote filter.

[@RPIEngineering]

I think then you have a P6 style oil pump base that has a larger thread than the SD1 onwards version. We have a suitable filter in stock but Fram are also a good make of filter so I would suggest to keep using what you have at present.

[@groundbeef662]

@@RPIEngineering Much appreciated cheers for the reply.

[@nzrestoration9486]

I run a 1973 RR Classic in NewZealand and this was very helpful thank you . Can I ask if replacing the standard oil pump gears with the higher volume /pressure kit you can get is useful or am I wasting my money, I have been told the original gears were to small when the engine was designed?

[@RPIEngineering]

Yes we always upgrade the early oil pumps with the upgrade kit and would advise it. However if oil pressure is low due a badly worn engine then of course upgrading the oil pump is going to simply mask this for a little longer is simply make no difference if the engine is that bad.

[@Anarchy-Is-Liberty]

So, using 20W-50, I can assume your engine oil runs above 220 degrees most of the time or your bearing clearances are quite excessive?

[@philipirving6122]

Thank you for that! What do you recommend for coolant ?

[@RickyG512]

Would also love to know what the ideal coolant is, cheers buddy

[@user-jb6uz4vx9p]

What about using this oil in winter conditions like -15/-20 C?

[@jhgillette]

Can you make a recommendation on oil for to use for a new Rover V8 break in? Cheers!

[@RPIEngineering]

Hi, We use exactly the same oil for running all of our engines in.

[@faisalal-osaimi3856]

I’m using 15/40 mineral oil on my discoii03 I find it better than 20/50 in my opinion since our weather is very hot in the Middle East..and I change the oil every 3500km only..what do you guys think?!

[@RPIEngineering]

The engine running temp both coolant and oil temp should be fairly consistent if the correct coolers are used on the car. That being said we would still advise 20/50 in your climate as the oil gets thinner with heat so as your on a thinner grade at present your up against it already.

[@chrisbrowne1956]

If the Land Rover is used in colder temps than you usually see in England. Think as cold as -20 degrees C. Would you stick with 20-50 or change to a different viscosity?

[@RPIEngineering]

You need to monitor what the engine does when you first start it from cold. Does it get oil pressure straight away? Obviously when the engine is warm then the oil will still be correct, your only difference is the -20 cold start and if it is going to affect the engines ability to pump the oil around the engine when you first start it.

[@chrisbrowne1956]

@@RPIEngineering I've gone lighter 10-40 and now there is 10-50 as well. Oil pressure does come up faster.

[@RPIEngineering]

@@chrisbrowne1956 10W-50 would be a logical option due it being the same grade when warm. However of course we have not had experience of running this ourselves so we can not conclude its long term effects. Also note the ZDDP additive as mentioned in the video.

[@oumaniac]

I live on the equator (hot!) and have been using 10W-40 on a 4.6 Thor engine. Do you recommend a switch to 20W-50? Like Shell Helix HX3...I havent seen Valvoline 20W-50 around here. Could it cure the noisy cam/rocker/lifter (no idea what it's called)?

[@RPIEngineering]

Most definitely make the switch to 20/50. As long as its a manufacturer that you can trust, you want a zinc additive either in the oil or add some yourself. Valvoline is a mineral oil so if you can match that then brilliant.

[@oumaniac]

@@RPIEngineering Thanks! I will do that!

[@FloydStandiferIV]

is there a steel block for the P38 Range Rovers???

[@RPIEngineering]

No there is not.

[@gregred2772]

Thanks for the video. I am about to replace the oil in my 1990 3.9l RRC but have been told by Valvoline that this oil is no longer available in New Zealand or Australia. Can you suggest an alternative please? Cheers, Greg

[@garybilling6214]

Castrol classic 20/50 is just as good.

[@KITTKATTCHONKY]

I use Amsoil high zinc 10w40 would I see any benefits if I ran their 20w50 high zinc?

[@RPIEngineering]

As per the video our advice and all our engines run on 20/50, over the years many people have run on other grade oils and then switched to 20/50. Some see improved oil pressure, other see nothing. We have never conducted any long term test though of engine wear etc when run on 10/40 for say 50K miles and then switching to 20/50 etc with inspection of wear throughout the miles which would be the only way to really answer your question with actual data.

[@keithryan9314]

Hi: lads What about when you turbo charge an RV8 what oil would you recommend with this application??

[@RPIEngineering]

We have no turbo conversion on our books or produced by us so have no long term knowledge of long lasting effects. Personally I would say to speak to your turbo manufactured and ask them of the grade of oil that the turbo bearings would be happy with from cold (i.e would 20/50 be wrong for the turbo bearings) 20/50 would of course still be correct for the engine itself and we are still talking about a low reving engine in comparison to all the higher reving modern turbo engines

[@keithryan9314]

@@RPIEngineering Thanks so much lads. Very informative answer for me thank you. Love the channel by the way. My aim one day is to convert a rubber bumper mgb-gt to an RV8 twin turbo :))))

[@timothylanders3189]

Why would you recommend such a thick grade oil, especially in a colder climate? Due to non-DOHC? I'm in Australia & we use either 30 weight oil or 40. The Land Rover manual here states 40 weight... All BMW's are recommended to run 30 weight. My 2007 Nissan Patrol runs (as per manual) 5w30. The 5, best for cold start. The 5 @ start up is thicker than the 30 @ running temp! 20W50 seems way too thick for an engine in good nick...

[@RPIEngineering]

Because engines still have the same running temp, tolerances are still the same. For sure cold start temps will be different however from the feedback from customers all over the world from the last 30+ years running 20/50 is still no issue on cold start ups although you may need to give the engine a few minutes warm up before driving but that seems normal for really cold climate countries anyway.

[@m1cxf]

I always use an age appropriate oil in whatever I am running. Whether it is a 1950's British motorbike, modern Japanese thing, big old industrial diesel or my 2004 Discovery 2 V8. It is all about the age of the engine design. I see using modern fully synthetic in my V8 as being the same as a 95 year old great granny in a thong, literally just so wrong (unless you're a bit odd). Did you ever do a video about filters?

[@RPIEngineering]

Hi, We have not done one on filters but we did go a bit "odd" ourselves with this one kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGe4nnukadB5aJo

[@JZX834L]

20w50 in -30c in Canada? That would be like pumping molasses.

[@isaacsolenberger3315]

Works like a dream been using 20w-50 year round without issues my engine runs way way better with the thick oil

[@ericblair1011]

So I have a ‘81 TR7 V8 conversion. The motor came out of a tr8 the same year. What oil filter is recommended?

[@RPIEngineering]

Genuine Land Rover oil filter

[@ericblair1011]

Thank you

[@ericblair1011]

The 3340?

[@RPIEngineering]

@@ericblair1011 Sorry I don't do part numbers lol. But they have the same thread on them from 1976/77 on wards :-)

[@ericblair1011]

Thanks lol!!!

[@autoroom21]

Would you use flush before putting the new oil in it too?

[@RPIEngineering]

Hmmm, its debatable. If the engine is that sludged up that you think it needs a flushing lubricant then we would advise the engine needs rebuilding as dislodging some sludge with a flushing agent could then potentially block off oil ways etc. For normal oil changes just doing it with correct old school method of making sure the engine is right upto (oil) temp and then draining it is sufficient.

[@autoroom21]

RPIEngineering thanks guys. Also, my oil reading (when cold) is just above max on the dipstick (1-2mm) would you siphon some oil off and how would you do this? Straight from the drain plug? Should a reading be taken cold or when hot? Thanks. Will be popping up at some point.

[@RPIEngineering]

@@autoroom21 Always from cold when all the oil has drained into the sump. Assuming you have the correct sump to dipstick setup the oil being over the fill level by 1 to 2 mm will be no issue but I would not advise it if there is any more than that

[@autoroom21]

RPIEngineering thanks a lot chaps. Will review and drain some off though the sump plug. Cheers

[@thomashorrobin5690]

Pictures in the background aren’t straight

[@TommyboyGTP]

Who manufacturers Land Rover's filters?

[@RPIEngineering]

Interesting questions however not something we have ever needed to research or concern ourselves with as we have never had any quality issues with them.

[@TommyboyGTP]

@@RPIEngineering Good to know, more of a curiosity thing since I was a parts specialist for many years. Greetings from Florida!

[@Freebird67]

Lost with out his hands

[@chriskappert1365]

20W50 , a nice thicker oil , not that waterlike piss .

[@andreaconti1772]

Si traduzione in italiano

[@RPIEngineering]

Sorry it is not.