Ruger American/Predator bolt disassembly the EASY way, with no special tools!

[@tommyconnor354]

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve needed this video throughout the last two years, you’re a gentle and scholar sir. Thank you so much

[@ericwylie7415]

I over turned the bolt and locked it, and your video helped me figure out how to fix that! Note: rather than using a vice, I took a standard screwdriver and put the point against the cocking piece, and the handle against my belt and pushed. Doing so, I was able to twist it right back into place.

[@hblegal8309]

So here goes! I bought the Anarchy firing pin removal tool. It did not come with instructions. No problem, I went to their website and to KZbin to watch before starting. The guy from Anarchy knew what he was doing and by his own words, it was easy because he had done it so many times. I believe him as he knocked it out with no problem. The problem is for those who want to watch "close-ups," to explain and show us the steps. Many years ago before I changed career paths in school, I was a Xerox technician. I say this to give a background in my technical ability. My first time taking it apart with the tool, the firing spring released. The Anarchy video was of no help as his hands were covering the bolt as to where to line things up. Then I found your video and the problem was solved! GREAT JOB! Maybe they should give you a stipend. My thoughts are this. If you are going to sell a product as a business, you should provide the best instructions. It is a good tool and the guy knows his stuff. However, most of us are looking for an instructor to go with the product. On a side note, I found a block of soft pine and used an anti-slip pad from the kitchen underneath the wood. I used the bolt handle to push down on the spring into the wood. The firing pin went into the wood till it it the thicker part of the pin, and stopped. The wood is soft enough so you do not damage the pin. The anti-slip pad is a MUST to keep the wood from kicking out under the pressure compressing the spring. Now back to my point,.........Thank you for such a nice video! When I did my second Ruger it was a breeze and I did not release the spring this time. :)

[@macgyver5108]

LOL I'll be sure to share this with the guys from Anarchy.

[@macgyver5108]

I think the phrase is "the devil's in the details" right?

[@hblegal8309]

Exactly!@@macgyver5108

[@hblegal8309]

Perfect! I am sure they are great guys and they make nice products. Like you, if we can help someone else out we are all winners working together.@@macgyver5108

[@macgyver5108]

If you're not already a member... facebook.com/groups/791513284361395

[@TOMMACMILLAN-fw6oh]

Thank you young man, the way you show thing and explain, EXCELLENT !!! I went back a few times to get my alignment right, and you solved my problem .... Thanks again !!

[@tomaskey6844]

Took a few try’s to get it back together but thanks to this video I didn’t have to wait for a special tool to arrive.

[@Bronco4eva]

Been sitting here for an hour working it back-and-forth couldn’t figure it out. Thank you so much!

[@alfredohernandez9411]

Did the mistake of locking the bolt by over cranking, save me the time and struggle. Thanks for the video man!

[@macgyver5108]

Why I made the video, glad I could help! Happy shooting brother!

[@spawnq39]

Мужик, ты не представляешь, как сильно я тебе признателен. Все просто и доступно!!!! Спасибо тебе!

[@macgyver5108]

Нет проблем! Спасибо!

[@nickmorris975]

Over rotated mine. Thank you for explaining how to correct!!! 2:10

[@Woodyt]

excellent camera work on this, best I've seen. Thanks

[@macgyver5108]

Thanks, took me a few takes! One thing that drives me _nuts_ is videos posted that either aren't in focus or worse way out of frame for key moments.

[@wadepflueger2371]

Thank you so Much for this video I totally over cranked the bolt and locked it in the position thank you for helping me unlock it

[@warkentin73]

I swear I was born without thumbs, took me 2 days trying to get this right, I kept allowing the spring to fold in, and kept placing the tool backwards. But this video explained much others do not, finally got it right and re-cocked.

[@macgyver5108]

Glad I could be of service!

[@rosem6360]

Great video. Does changing cocking piece smooth out the actual cocking. My rifle is smooth but is somewhat stiff when raising and lowering bolt. Made the mistake of playing with a Weatherby rifle at Cabelas. It cocked so effortlessly that since then I have been wondering if there is anything I can do to make my Predator work any way closer to that.

[@macgyver5108]

Thanks Rose! And yes it does indeed! If you look at the AD cocking peice in the video, the front rides against some 45° angled "ramps" on the back of the bolt body. Because the AD part has a much smoother surface it slides over those much easier as the rifle is cocked. Something else that can help is adding a little molybdenum disulfide powder or Moly based grease to those 'ramps' and working that into the metal. Moly embeds into metal fairly permanently and it's SUPER slippery stuff! It's mostly used used for packing high speed bearings, like axle bearings ETC. It can be spendy stuff, I use Krytox by Chemours GPL 215 EP Grease which can run $30 for a little tube, but it lasts forever and also works great on the trigger sears too, to smooth out and lighten the trigger pull. A new bolt handle can also help out a LOT by giving you better leverage. The only drawback of a bolt that opens easy is it opens easy... like when you're out hunting the bolt can barely bump open a _"hair"_ and the rifle won't fire! Get in the habit of palming down the bolt handle every time you fire as a routine though and problem solved.

[@George1mac]

Excellent....I have been having difficulty chambering a round without having to almost slam the bolt home in my RAR 300 blk....seems the ejector may not be allowed past the rim of the cartridge without doing so...I figured the bolt should be dissembled and cleaned, so we'll see what happens....thanks much!!!

[@macgyver5108]

What kind of marks are on the brass afterwards? Being rough to chamber I'd expect to see some tell tales on the brass rim. Was it always this way or is this a new development?

[@George1mac]

@@macgyver5108 Hello......yes, I looked at the brass carefully, and like you, I expected a swipe mark or some sort of dent in the rim or something due to the amount of force I was using to chamber a round, but there is nothing obvious. I have not used the gun much after buying it new several years ago due to some health problems, and when I did hunt, I was using my 450 BM RAR and or my 308 or 7mm-08. In preparation for a hog hunt coming up, a friend and I were sighting in and working up some loads, and I thought finally, I will drag out the RAR 300 blk.....the bolt was sticky straight out of the box, but I watched a video by Iraqveteran8888, and they had the same problem....I figured it would work out. Again, I had put it up for some time. I wrote Ruger and asked about the problem, and they have advised me to ship them the gun for inspection....perhaps this has happened before with some of the guns from a few years ago....guess I will crate it up and we will find out......thanks

[@macgyver5108]

@@George1mac well it does occasionally happen, that things end up out of spec by a hair. Ruger's unheard-of customer service is why they're my preferred budget bolt action company! They'll make it right...

[@MallardManBuster007]

Hey man, thanks for this video, just that comment about the vise (clicked too far) got it for me, saved me a bunch of aggravation thank you

[@T34theAmericanheavy]

If you over crank the cocking pice you can just rap a shirt around it and spin it over until you get it back into place, no vice required

[@orlandkoonce498]

Thanks. Wanted to upgrade my bolt handle and the cocking device is a NICE bonus. Did you change out the bolt shroud too ? The plastic ones are kinda cheap. Looking at an aluminum one from same company you got the cocking device

[@macgyver5108]

Yeah the plastic shrouds can break IF you manage to smack them just right. I replaced mine with the aluminum ones, but even at that Ruger will freely replace the shroud if it breaks on you, or any other parts for that matter. Best customer service I've ever seen in the industry among the countless accounts I've heard in online forums.

[@emu125]

With as old as this video is, I don't know if you'll ever see my comment...can you do a video on replacing the cocking piece/firing pin? Please? Or direct me to one?

[@macgyver5108]

A new video is actually in the works once I get a minute. Anarchy Outdoors sent me their bolt tool, an AD arms cocking piece and new bolt handle right before hunting season and was planning on filming while I was hunting, until I forgot to pack the SD card for the Canon... 🙄 I've been pretty swamped since I got back. The Ruger American bolt is actually pretty much identical to the Ruger Precision in function, just has a nicer bolt shroud. You'll NEED a "roll pin punch" to drift out the roll pin in the cocking piece, as it has a specially shaped tip to stay centered and not mangle the roll pin. I forget the exact size off hand. kzbin.info/www/bejne/apabpmaXnLKmnNEsi=owSrwjRKbQ184Umb&t=196

[@AaronBrand]

I should have paid more attention the first time I watched this! I’m just checking things out after my first trip to the range with my new (to me) rifle. I twisted too far and came back to watch again. Then when you said “vice” I said balls. Again, I should have listened more carefully; something on this bolt is very sharp and sliced my finger open when I was trying to force the cocking piece back onto that shelf.

[@macgyver5108]

Ouch... Part of my range kit is a small box with tools and things I use for gun work. One of those items is some deerskin leather gloves, which also end up in my hunting pack with my drag rope. They've come in handy for tending a small fire too if the weather turns and my lips start turning blue (no joke!). 😎 I think I might have a solution to gain a mechanical advantage to cock the bolt without tearing your hands up... Sticking it in BACKWARDS might work, plastic cap first until the metal bolt body slides into the receiver? You'd just have to turn the bolt handle the opposite direction far enough. I'll have to play with that idea on my father's Go Wild, my cheek riser interferes on my RAP aftermarket stock...

[@AaronBrand]

@@macgyver5108 the vice worked. And now I know that I shouldn’t do that. I learn beat the hard way, despite seeing it on your channel repeatedly! Thanks!

[@samsammy6210]

I just use 550 cord make a loop, feed the loop through itself around the vice, pull on the bolt rear wards turning at the same tome, no damage done to any of the bolt. No mar or scar. Don’t have to use a vice either.

[@macgyver5108]

Clever... At that rate you could just make about a 6' loop of 550 cord around your foot and just stand on it to pull against it.

[@tylermartin3003]

@@macgyver5108 Old school guys take down 700 bolts using their boot lace since it has a bit of a hook on it.

[@rigsby556]

i was fixing to say the same thing, every marine with a rem 700 was taught how to disassemble the bolt with their boot lace while still wearing the boot.

[@73TimmyG]

I was having light strikes yesterday so thought I'd take the bolt out and clean/check firing pin assembly. I've decompressed the firing pin fully. Any tips on how to reset/compress it again?

[@macgyver5108]

Are you saying the center part, the "firing pin spring stop" slid out of place so the spring is relaxed? (part number 4 on a diagram if you search for it) Use a block of softer wood, like a 2x4 ETC and a good sized adjustable crescent wrench. Adjust the wrench to the thickness of the firing pin back, then catch the ears/lobes of the spring stop, put the firing pin on the wood and push down on the catch far enough to turn things back into position.

[@macgyver5108]

Something you'll want to keep in mind too, with many bolt action designs if the bolt handle isn't fully closed ALLL the way it can cause light strikes! Even just a "hair" opened can do that. So it's a good habit to add "palming the handle closed" on the way to the trigger to your firing checklist... Especially when you're out in the field hunting ETC!

[@dant4786]

Thanks, good info. Swapped my bolt handle today.

[@kylevinny22]

This is a great video and helped me get my new bolt handle replaced and the bolt put back in my gun! However I shot one round at the range and the firing pin dropped. I was unable to shoot anymore until I had tools to fix the bolt/firing pin. Have you had any experiences like this happen? Just trying to figure out the “why” so it doesn’t happen in the field.

[@macgyver5108]

The firing pin "dropped"? You're saying the rifle fired once and then wouldn't recock the firing pin? Sounds like something didn't go back together right, did the firing pin back/cocking piece get lined up on the back of the bolt, there's a dimple where it's supposed to sit when it lines up correctly.

[@kylevinny22]

@@macgyver5108 - Yes, everything was lined up when I put the bolt back in and I cycled the bolt probably 100 times, dry fired a couple times during that time. Shot one actual round at the range and the firing pin dropped/lost spring tension and wouldn’t go back into the rifle. I don’t think it’s any major issue, I’m just trying to figure out the why.

[@macgyver5108]

@@kylevinny22 hmm, kind of hard to diagnose without visually seeing what part of the puzzle didn't line up correctly, but it's also not a terribly complex puzzle to troubleshoot either. Starting at the beginning of the order of functions, to cock the firing pin it first needs to catch the trigger sear where it sticks up inside the action. Did you make any changes to the factory trigger?

[@kylevinny22]

@@macgyver5108 - No have not touched the trigger. I did upgrade the magazine well from standard to AICS magazines

[@kylevinny22]

@@macgyver5108 - Absolutely, I’ll send them later today! Appreciate the help!

[@markanuchin6791]

Worked perfectly! Thank you!!!!

[@Johnny-jr2lq]

I have a Mossberg patrol it will not cycle without jamming please tell me the truth how does your run

[@macgyver5108]

Sorry to hear... I've got three Ruger American Predator/Go Wild rifles and never had any jamming issues per-se. Sometimes you'll get a new magazine that's a dud and sticks, but a quick call to Ruger and a new one is in the mail no questions asked. Over 600 hundred rounds later and no more mag issues. Even on the forum I moderate you can ask anyone, these are reliable and accurate rifles, especially at the price! Howa 1500's are top notch too. There's a popular saying: "Mossberg should've stuck to shotguns." Savages can be stupid accurate too but even certain model Savages have feed issues.

[@acesonflush346]

I changed the bolt handle and got it together but now closing and opening the action is very stiff. Did i do something wrong? It takes like twice the force compared to before.

[@acesonflush346]

Edit* after taking the firing pin out another time I didn't see anything wrong, I neglected to check clearances on the new bolt handle and the new stock I put on the barrel and action. I just ended up sanding down the edge of the stock and bolt handle that was touching and it's smooth as butter again.

[@puinsai8oh8]

If you over rotate it can you just rotate it all the way around again? I did it without a vice by just rotating it all the way around back to where it need to be

[@macgyver5108]

It would seem so after looking closer at the design, the firing pin back is pinned in so it can't come loose as I previously thought it would. I might delete this video, or make an updated one.

[@adloutdoors]

I learned a valuable lesson by turning it too far. Anarchy Outdoors makes a tool for under $20.00 that will save the day! Thanks for the vid!

[@Ballistec]

I bought one of those. Save your money. They are made of soft aluminum and disfigure on the first use. Use a hardened screwdriver. Maybe Anarchy will build a steel version; until then, I wouldn't recommend the aluminum one.

[@JCulpepper73]

Thanks man! Excellent video.

[@johnlogan7875]

easy peasy - thanks for the tips

[@DavisInDuval]

I still can’t figure this out, the part where you talk about wiggling it out this does not happen for me. So frustrated with this thing.

[@macgyver5108]

You mean the firing pin assembly? Might be the lugs inside aren't depressed far enough from the spring tension. What are you using to wedge into firing pin back/cocking piece? If you're using a flathead screwdriver might try one with a little wider blade so it spreads the parts open a hair more.

[@relativity1581]

If your screwdriver slips out you can seperate the two and start again by using an adjustable wrench to force the spring down. Put the firing pin ontop cardboard as you forced it down.

[@macgyver5108]

Or just use the tool Ruger gave you, the bolt handle...

[@juliogonzo2718]

Do they make a metal shroud to replace the crap plastic one?

[@macgyver5108]

_INDEED THEY DO!_ Check out the anarchy outdoors website under Ruger American/Precision rifle parts, the RPR has the same bolt body as the American rifle line.

[@macgyver5108]

www.anarchyoutdoors.com/bolt-shroud-replacement-for-the-ruger-american-rifle/

[@juliogonzo2718]

@@macgyver5108 awsome! Hopefully ITAR allows for shipping here

[@juliogonzo2718]

@@macgyver5108 I just looked and they use a Canadian distributor, Go Big Tactical

[@macgyver5108]

@@juliogonzo2718 fantastic! Hope that works out for you and while you're at it I'd highly recommend that firing pin backing piece from AD Arms for not only reliability sake but also a _much_ smoother and lower trigger pull!

[@ardz8279]

How about a video on what you did to work the corduroy sound out of the bolt? Did you also work the raceway? I would surely appreciate it!

[@macgyver5108]

It's really pretty simple to do. Are you on the main Ruger American fb group? I've thought about making a video explaining the steps, but I don't have a "virgin" Ruger to show the whole process, I've done 3 so far... Tape the bolt lugs off, sand the body with 600-1k grit sandpaper. Use a metal polishing compound of some sort like Flitz, automotive wheel polish or chrome polish ETC and hit it with a buffing wheel. When you're happy with it take the tape off the lugs and blast it all clean with brake/parts cleaner to get all the buffing compound and any grit off REALLY WELL! If polishing compound gets into the lug area in the action it will end up lapping the bolt lugs and mess up your head space! Find a PVC pipe that will fit inside the action "raceway" and neatly tape some sand paper to that, slide all that into the action no farther than the front of the ejection port and start spinning! When that's done, hold it muzzle up and spray cleaner down the bore to hose any grit out the backside, you don't want that junk going in the bore, then hold it all higher and blast the rest of the action clean.

[@ardz8279]

@@macgyver5108 Hot damb! Thanks alot! I'm getting on the bolt as soon as I can gather the stuff. Most of it is on hand, actually; just need to right size the pvc pipe... I don't know why I hadn't thought of a fb grp- I'll check it out. (...just tried... what is the name of the fb group you're referring to?) Thanks again, sir.

[@macgyver5108]

@@ardz8279 the group title is "Ruger American" by Indian Creek Design. Or just go to fb online and add /groups/791513284361395 after the com on the web address. I'm a mod over there... I'll double post so it's easy to copy.

[@macgyver5108]

/groups/791513284361395

[@macgyver5108]

@@ardz8279 any sort of tube that's a perfect "cylinder" that's long enough to have a handle would work. A copper pipe with the ends smoothed up, a dowel ETC. I happened to have a stiff plastic tube one of my long ceramic triangular polishing stones came in that worked perfect.

[@greatdane3343]

Nice video mate 👍 Thanks for sharing.

[@jamespilbeam209]

I've never heard of the breakage problem in all the time these rifles have been around. Where did you get your information on this problem?

[@macgyver5108]

Multiple FB groups, happens a lot with people that do competitions or just have higher round counts.

[@AaronBrand]

For me this is an “if it ain’t broke” item. Good to know if I need to in the future!

[@josem8332]

I did exactly what you said. I dropped my bolt and it was out of time. The manual said rotate clockwise ( the easy way). I went around twice. You say this might cause light primer strike , if so I will find out at range. If so should I rotate on vice the opposite direction and how much, how many times? should I do it now before going to range? I hope you understand my questions.

[@macgyver5108]

Hmm, I must have missed that part of the manual? If the "manufacturer" says it'll work than I wouldn't worry about it.

[@firstgenC_10]

Thank you, your video helped me out so much

[@kirkwest6654]

Picked up one yesterday and the ejector and spring fell out any direction for how to replace?

[@macgyver5108]

Oooo boy... Do you still have all 3 parts, the spring, ejector and the roll-pin that slides in at a 90° to retain the ejector? Or did any get lost? Call Ruger customer service and they'll send you replacements on the house, just have your serial handy. I've always used the NC branch, 3369495200 because they're super friendly folks. As far as getting 'the snake back in the cage'... You'll need a 3/32" roll pin punch (NEEDS to be a "roll pin" punch which has a specific tip shape, a normal punch will obliterate the roll pin!). A trick to help get the spring and ejector back in the hole is I clip about 1/2" off a plastic coffee stir straw to use as a guide tube (if you can still find one). If not, any tube with a 1/8" or 3.2mm Inner Diameter (ID) will avoid sending parts into Low Earth Orbit or mangling the spring... Might try brass or aluminum tube that size from a hardware store or model/hobby supply shop. If you go that route you can also file off 1/4 of one end so it sits nicely in line with the bolt face. Hope that helps...

[@kirkwest6654]

@@macgyver5108 I never took roll pin out the ejector and spring just come out. Perhaps they didn't knock the pin in far enough.....

[@macgyver5108]

@@kirkwest6654 odd... Maybe the roll pin wore out or rotated in the hole "just right" where the split is and the ejector came out? At any rate, call that 336 number and they'll priority mail you a new replacement kit free of charge. At this point I'd replace all 3 parts to be safe.

[@kirkwest6654]

@@macgyver5108 I did get some spare parts rifle was new hasn't been fired yet I was just checking feeding on heavy 300blk subs with factory mag

[@aktrapper6126]

Well done video.

[@macgyver5108]

Thank you Sir...

[@richlamb9787]

Can you show a little more detail on what you're actually prying on with a screwdriver? The removal it gets blurry and it can't tell how you're pulling it out

[@macgyver5108]

3:19

[@lIllSemperfaillIl]

Is it counter clock if the bolt is left handed?

[@macgyver5108]

I'm gonna say that's unlikely. The handle is probably inserted in the bolt in the opposite direction 180° through the hole, to simplify production and machining if you follow. But I could be wrong?!

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

So once you reinstall the bolt shroud and click it back into place by turning, the cocking piece and firing pin “flats” no longer have to be lined up?

[@macgyver5108]

To get the bolt BACK into the rifle you need to line things up like is shown at 1:45. (Sorry it took me a bit to reply!)

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

@@macgyver5108 Actually I never got it *out* of the rifle but it turns out the light strikes I was having was because my primer seating tool was broken and not fully seating the primers, instead of there being a dirty firing pin channel like I thought 🤣

[@macgyver5108]

@@rifleshooterchannel208glad you got it figured out! It's my "humble opinion" that EVERYONE who owns a gun ought to be able to at least have a modest grasp and understanding of its "basic" functions, so as to clean and maintain it properly. ESPECIALLY if you're reloading for it!

[@wesleymcmicken2398]

What happens if your screw driver pops out and you lose the gap?? Sitting here for 3 hours trying to fix it

[@macgyver5108]

Use the "spring compressor" Ruger gave you! 😁 If you slide the bolt handle up over the firing pin there's a round collar with tabs sticking out, where it normally sits. Rotate the handle so it locks into that collar and press the whole thing down onto a block of wood so you don't screw up the tip of the firing pin. Helps if you drill a shallow hole partway into the wood to press the pin into so it doesn't get squirrely. Then just twist the firing pin backer so it's square with the handle collar and slip the screwdriver back in.

[@peterpriester8910]

So when I got the cocked piece and the firing pin out my screwdriver came out before I got it back in the bolt what should I do because now my cocking piece and firing pin are together. I tried to just put it back in but it wouldn’t stay tight

[@macgyver5108]

OUCH! What kind of tools are at your disposal? Do you have an awl or a bench vise? I would put the lower tail of the cocking piece carefully in a vise or on a piece of wood to keep it from getting scraped up and wiggle an awl in between the components until you get a gap wide enough for a small screwdriver blade to slide in, wiggle that in further and step up to a larger blade screwdriver and work that one in from the opposite side. It's going to be a pain to keep that center piece squared to the cocking piece too...

[@peterpriester8910]

MåcGyver alright thank you

[@peterpriester8910]

MåcGyver alright I got it the only thing is the cocking indicator and firing pin doesn’t line up does that matter?

[@macgyver5108]

@@peterpriester8910 cocking indicator? Mean the cocking piece on the rear? The flats on the center bushing on the middle of the firing pin needs to be square with the cocking piece.

[@macgyver5108]

@@peterpriester8910 you get it figured out?!

[@terrysmith8714]

Soooo, how do youn replace the new unit?

[@macgyver5108]

You mean the new firing pin back? Once you pull the firing pin assembly you drill a hole part way into a scrap 2x4 block of wood big enough that the front of the firing pin will fit in. Then use a "roll pin punch" (specificly! Not just a plain punch!) to drive the roll pin out of the firing pin back so the pin back can unscrew. Screw the new one on using the hole in the wood block and to make things easier slide the bolt handle over it to compress the firing pin spring. Hammer in a new roll pin and you're on the home stretch.

[@Kai-hz8uh]

Great info! Cheers!

[@shotgunsam23]

thank you so much, my god are you good at explaining this.

[@macgyver5108]

Thanks! Looking at other videos they didn't exactly explain things well enough so I decided to share.

[@benb3910]

Screwdriver didn’t work for me, tried several different flatheads. They didn’t exert enough pressure down onto the upper rectangular tail piece of the firing pin. A pair of snapring pliers worked nicely, and it easily freed from the bolt handle.

[@macgyver5108]

Hmm, must have pretty small shafts? Glad you figured out a tool that would work.

[@salvasi1594]

Anarchy Outdoors makes a good firing removal tool. Check it out on their site. Makes working on the Ruger American bolt a breeze

[@oscarcortes8973]

Sr: hi I need little help with my ruger predator 223 , I need to buy the bolt fire pin complete . The entire part with the iside component . You tink can help me with it ? I been looking by internet and Not finde any

[@macgyver5108]

Unfortunately you won't find a separate firing pin or the bolt body anywhere other than by calling Ruger customer service. The bolt isn't considered a "user serviceable item" because it needs to be replaced by a professional gunsmith to set the correct head spacing. It's all covered under warranty though and Ruger customer service is pretty amazing about making things right.

[@SirDadbod]

U don't need a vice to do it..get enough parachord...make a loop..use your feet in one end of the chord...put the other end on that mim part...pull and turn..easy as hell...

[@tomreid2011]

***EDIT: Nevermind, didn't quite have the pin cocked far enough to insert the tool properly! 😂 *** When I remove the screwdriver, the firing pin snaps back against the cocking piece. It won't hold that head space and that causes the firing pin not to lock back into the bolt. I've tried many many times! I ordered the two pronged tool from Anarchy Outdoors, but the tabs don't fit around the cam of the firing pin. Any recommendations before I pay a shameful visit to the gunsmith?

[@macgyver5108]

Hmm, take a picture of the back so I can see what you're talking about.

[@SkellyWaggs]

Okay so I’ve got a question and I’m really hoping someone can help me out here, when I went to buy one of these billet pieces, it’s asking me “short action American rifle or magnum action” but my Ruger American is a 30-06 and it’s the new go wild edition. Will one of these pieces work for my rifle?

[@macgyver5108]

Which billet peices? The firing pin back? 30-06 is a "long action" but has the same bolt face diameter as a short action such as .308 or 6.5 Creed, so the short action should work for the '06. Magnums have a larger bolt face so...

[@orlandkoonce498]

06 is a LONG action(large) Short action .308/6.8/6.5/.243 are the others. Hope this helps you out

[@londonschabes8641]

I need help twisting the bolt shroud bc firing pin is not ready, it is already forward. Does anyone know how to fix it my bolt can’t go back in

[@T34theAmericanheavy]

Wrap your shirt around it and twist it until you get it in 1 of the 2 slots

[@rickamc3521]

Saved my ass bro thanks 🙏

[@popethehope8244]

I got the metal piece but where you put the flat head that gap is closed idk how to get it open

[@macgyver5108]

The AD arms cocking piece? There's a gap next to the center "rod" on two side, that's the the firing pin mechanism in the middle.

[@popethehope8244]

I figured it out thanks for video helped greatly

[@popethehope8244]

Now I’m having a failure to extract lol

[@macgyver5108]

@@popethehope8244 is it pulling the shell out and failing to eject or failing to pull the shell entirely? If it's not flicking the brass out then that's a weak or stuck ejector spring/plunger, failure to extract is caused by the extraction claw being the wrong shape/spec size, usually there's either a rough edge that's getting in the way and not allowing the claw to lock onto the rim of the brass or it's not a tight enough fit to hold onto the brass securely. Call Ruger customer service and they'll sort that out for you, but you'll have to mail your bolt to them which might take a week or two to get fixed...

[@usmcbrun1]

Thank you!

[@macgyver5108]

No worries, glad I could help. Honestly I just got tired of using a "written description" of the process in our Ruger American group... so I shot a video one day at like 3 in the morning!😁

[@pyropheonix90]

On your other video I made I comment. I figured it out, got some outside help, big help, thank you so much!

[@joenguyen-vlog8063]

I really need one. But this part is too expensive for me. My is already broken from me doing some dry firing. My Rifle is still brand new. 😪

[@macgyver5108]

BUMMER! In the meantime you can call Ruger with your serial number handy and they'll replace that for free... Call this number! 16038652442

[@joenguyen-vlog8063]

MåcGyver Thanks for the info.👍👍

[@brandonkamp8081]

Will this work for the american ruger 308?

[@macgyver5108]

Yes, all the Ruger American bolts come apart the same.

[@adrianlala5044]

thank you for that

[@garrettwilkinson5801]

When you say changing the cocking piece made it smoother what do you mean in particular?

[@macgyver5108]

The surface of the new cocking piece material is so slippery that it makes the action components glide over each other much easier. I would estimate the rifle bolt cocks with 1/4 of the force necessary before and it even dropped my trigger pull weight by a solid 1/4 lb. I had done a trigger job, where I polished the sear points and trimmed the springs, dropping it to 3 lbs dead even and now it's at 2.75 lbs just by installing the cocking piece.

[@macgyver5108]

If your bolt has the "zipper" sound when you run it this won't change that, you'll have to sand and polish the bolt body to get rid of that! The new cocking piece only affects how much force is needed to close the bolt handle and how much pressure is needed to pull the trigger.

[@garrettwilkinson5801]

@@macgyver5108 I have polished the bolt so it does make any noise now but when I cycle the bolt it has a very distinctive double bolt lock and unlock. Have you seen anything like that before or know if the cocking piece will fix that?

[@macgyver5108]

@@garrettwilkinson5801 That double click is part of the cam feature for the 70° throw... The AD Arms cocking piece makes that run a little smoother but not much, it's still a very distinct two clicks. Only way I can think of to help fix that (which I'll be doing soon) is to polish up the rear portion of the bolt where the cam part of the cocking piece rides. There's a couple large notches in the back of the bolt that can be pretty rough and could use some fine grit sandpaper and then a buffing wheel to polish those to a mirror shine and THAT would help immensely! Pause the video @ 3:55 and you'll see what I'm talking about on the rear of the bolt... There's two deep ramps and two smaller indents in the back of the bolt. DON'T get TOO aggressive with sandpaper on the two smaller indents or you might lose some of the lock up on the bolt, Use some fine 1000-2000 grit sandpaper LIGHTLY on those two indent areas for only a minute or so just to smooth it out without removing a ton of material and then use a polishing wheel. You can sand and polish the two deeper cuts without having to worry about the lock up, that's the initial stage before it clicks the first time. I should do a video that covers that project...

[@garrettwilkinson5801]

@@macgyver5108 ok great thank you. I video on that would be a great help too many I'm sure. I never noticed the two stages on any of the guns at the stores in my area so when I got this one from ruger it seemed way off to me. Thanks for all the help I will be subscribing to the channel great job so far!

[@quiquecruz6203]

I've tried several times and I haven't been able to get it right, it's really much harder than the bolt action on my Tikka rifle, I don't know why Ruger makes things complicated...!!!

[@macgyver5108]

Pay CLOSE attention to the flat edges of the center collar on the firing pin so they stay flush with the flats on the firing pin back. They have to stay lined up perfectly.

[@bah197]

Thanks.

[@noobshadowbanned]

Thx

[@BlackBeard_Actual]

Will not come out still, did everything showed

[@BlackBeard_Actual]

Mine will not free up

[@macgyver5108]

You're probably not using a fat enough screwdriver...

[@BlackBeard_Actual]

MåcGyver ok thanks will try a bigger one, thank you for getting back so fast,

[@BlackBeard_Actual]

Still won’t free up

[@macgyver5108]

@@BlackBeard_Actual I dunno what to tell you man, try a wider blade screwdriver!

[@GrifJones05]

I let the screw driver slip while putting back in, boy oh boy did that suck without a vice.

[@macgyver5108]

OUCH! I'm contemplating a "re-do" of this video with a few additions if I get the time. For one, you can loop a line of say 550 cord through the pin back and stand on the loop like with Remy 700 bolts to get things back into line or even easier just rotate the bolt head around until it lines up again. Looking at the design closer the pin back has a roll pin in it, so it can't come undone like myself and others in the Ruger American forums figured would happen.

[@larryholton9560]

maybe I'm the only one still confused but about to throw this fucking bolt to the goddamn wall.. and I'm a pretty good gunsmith. I bet on my own things I remember my own things this fucking bolt something is not clicking in my head

[@thomasmoore7079]

Thanks. I went to Catholic school and we wore cords. Can’t stand that sound.

[@phillipmcmillan1595]

Why not show how to put cocking piece on firing pin?

[@macgyver5108]

Because there's already videos out there that do.

[@macgyver5108]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/apabpmaXnLKmnNE

[@macgyver5108]

It's the same as the Ruger American bolts.

[@williamdawson2746]

Binky brought me here

[@macgyver5108]

They make MUCH higher quality videos than my "lowly" instructional!

[@jeepster0934]

A less BLURY FOCUS on camera would help a lot.