Rui Deng DPH3205 vs. Minghe D3806 - 12v Solar Shed

[@rdtech9153]

very very good comparation. I like it . the designer of D3806 is my friend, and now this designer is my engineer too. we are designing new products. you compare 3 parts. 1, display, 2, ripple, 3, efficiency. very good. and our product win. thank you again

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Rd Tech Thank you. Nice to know that you're working together. I've enjoyed using both products.

[@rdtech9153]

***** thank you very much for your support yes, we are working together

[@rdtech9153]

Adam Welch you are welcome. it is my pleasure to work with you

[@diySmith]

Hi rd tech. I use both the product d3806 and dps5015. When would you guys new product will come out as u mention there?

[@steve6375]

If designer of D3806 is your friend, please ask him how to stop the problem of the D3806 blowing up my circuits! rmprepusb.blogspot.com/2019/11/is-d3806-boostbuck-dc-dc-power-supply.html This is a very bad problem with D3806!

[@JulianIlett]

Aha, now I understand!

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Julian Ilett ;-)

[@rubenuspv]

According to dave jones you shouldn't use the negative alligator of the oscilloscope probe to check ps noise, induces a lot of noise by using it.

[@AdamWelchUK]

+.rpv Ok thanks. I'll try that again then.

[@unlost117]

er... so where is the signal voltage referenced from if you dont use probe ground? Could you please post a link to daves info so we can view the matter in context. Cheers.

[@rubenuspv]

Hi, it's not that you won't ground your oscilloscope probe, it's the way to do it, the video it's: /watch?v=Edel3eduRj4 or only search for "how to check power supply noise" it's on the first page of results. Cheers.

[@unlost117]

+.rvp Thanks for the heads up

[@warrencurry874]

Truer words have never been spoken. Go for differential measurement across the load.

[@chandruasp]

We are using 48V BLDC Air conditioner with solar power charging 4X12V =48V batteries 150AH each, the power input for Air conditioner is 48V dc from charging batteries. The problem I understood is 2 inverters Modified sine wave inverters have gone to internal short circuit and now finally the indoor/outdoor controller card also gone into not working stage. All happened one by one in last year but I observed that during AC on full load the 48V at have not a smooth DC because of the compressor load variation has creates a electrical un smooth DC. this may be cause of all those failures? is my question.

[@keithking1985]

Yea get what ya pay for.. the price difference between both is big. The Ming he is a third or more the price. I was just looking it up on banggood and wanted an a review/opinion on it. It's 13€.. can't remember what the other is but it's more. Im glad you showed the noise on the output il be taking it off my list..

[@Luke-san]

I wouldn't really bother about the 1V overshoot at the output. I had a module that threw a +10V out when switched on. Killed a couple of things. Contacted the manufacturer and received ver2 which fixed things. That output noise, did you check the input? (having massive headaches again and have to skip through parts)

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Luc Peeters The input was straight from my battery bank. Should be fairly stable. Not too worried about the 1v spike, but worth noting I thought. Cheers.

[@rdtech9153]

Adam Welch your input is my battery bank? I can't believe. because our product show your input is blinking

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Rd Tech Well I promise it was my battery bank! I'll re-do some tests and see if I still get flashing on better quality input cabling.

[@rdtech9153]

Adam Welch could you let me see you battery bank ? and you can use a battery as input to connect my DPH3205, i can make sure it is not blinking

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Rd Tech Take a look at my latest two videos. It shows the battery bank I tested your converter on as well as the one I changed to this week.

[@ChrisDIYerOklahoma]

I wonder what frequency that ripple is at? I know my inverter and MPPT solar chargers can completely drown out my CB radio base station (27 MHz). Higher frequency reception is not affected at all.

[@fokcuk]

Any recommendations for a cable adapter from a laptop power pack to some universal socket/cables that can be attached to the power converter?

[@unlost117]

Thanks Adam, nice insight. May we see more ripple current figures on the newer BPH3205 at lower currents for typical projects such as ardurino/arm/pic type projects say at 10mA, 20mA, 50mA and 100mA please. A lot of us are interested here. Thanks for your time if you do this test.

[@AdamWelchUK]

Funnily enough I was reading today how to take a better measurement of ripple today. I'll see what I can do.

[@unlost117]

+Adam Welsh Your previous measurements were fine for the data we need. Just measure lighter loads in exactly the same manner please :)

[@MikeysLab]

I just acquired the DPS5015, I should do a similar video on my channel, primarily wondering if there is any improvement to the noise factor.

[@Sopheris]

What about low voltages in both modules? Can you get for example 0.5V 5A on the output when you power it from 30 volts, or would they overheat?

[@bangkokhomes]

Hi Adam, good info. Julian Ilet convinced me to buy a Minghe I have Boost & Buck converters as separate units. I thought they worked reasonably well. I guess I will have to up grade. Good Video Merry Christmas Happy New Year

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Bangkok Homes They are good units but I personally prefer the boost buck so I can use one unit for everything. Although the Rui Deng unit only goes to 32 volts that's generally enough for me. The screen is the biggest difference to me - especially in videos. It's like having a proper bench power supply (or close to it). I've built the Rui Deng into a project box now and you'll probably see it in future videos - but don't write off the minghe - it'll probably feature too! Thanks for all your comments this year. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you too. :-)

[@rdtech9153]

Bangkok Homes because our DPH3205 was just designed 2 moths ago. so Julian Ilet did not use my DPH3205, he did not know this . and in that time , D3805 is only one buck-boost module. so he recommend you that one. you can ask him now , I can make sure he will recommend you buy our RD DPH3205 thank you . if you need one , you can come to my official shop to buy, I am the designer. www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPH32305-Constant-Voltage-current-Buck-boost-Programmable-digital-Power-Supply-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/923042_32762131242.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.wQtsXJ

[@jakobhovman]

Hello Adam...Thank You for this video. The Led displays are best seen and "shows" best on video, with a red filter in front...like red plexiglass. Greetings from Denmark...Jakob.

[@AdamWelchUK]

+Jakob Hovman Cheers - good tip.

[@JasonMasters]

A tip I saw on another video: Put a strip of red electrical tape over the display.

[@mppforall]

Could you use a Buck Boost Converter in place of a solar charge controller? I have a 100 watt solar panel hooked to a 12v deep cycle lead acid battery. My charge controller now has a linear voltage converter and it cuts off charging at 14.2 v. I would like it to stop charging when it hits 15.1 v. Any suggestions?

[@AdamWelchUK]

Buck Boost converters don't manage their input and will not get the most out of your panel. You might be better off with something like the CN3722 (take a look at my video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/opq8i2imjrSNeqc ) or the BQ24650 ( goo.gl/NCcYwy ) which works in the same way but I haven't actually put my hands on. The CN3722 comes in a version where you can adjust the charging point. However this is designed for lithium cells so it wouldn't float charge your lead acid battery. The other option is a cheap solar charge controller that allows you to adjust the charging parameters. I've used the EPSolar LS1024B ( goo.gl/DFRRg5 ) and a home made USB cable ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGSvo4qbjr6npLM ) to do this before but cheaper adjustable PWM charge controllers are available. May I ask why you want to charge to quite such a high level?

[@muratalsu238]

Hello there. rx tx pin. for arduino. reference? guide? sample? explanation? to inform? could you send?

[@1959Berre]

What is 'book boost'? Sorry, English is not my native language.

[@AdamWelchUK]

No worries. It’s Buck Boost. So the voltage on the output can be lower (buck) or higher (boost) than the input.

[@TechMan-sl5gf]

Well, I looked at the efficiency numbers and I was disagreeing with you. So, I re-run the video and did the math. Minghe D3806 Eff. 84.028599606% Rui Deng BPH3205 Eff. 83.706556364% So the Minghe won by a nose. However, as you said the noise and easy of use comes into play. I do have one of those Minghe on the way. Maybe I can modify the circuit some and filter out the noise.

[@qnedim3200]

I have D3806 too. How are you thinking of modifying it? With Arduino? What kind of change in filtering? Thnx.

[@qnedim3200]

You are trying to give 11.58 volts and get 12 volts. So the device works in boost mode. If you want to get 12 volts, you should not even use a 12 volt power supply, you definitely need to use a power supply above 12 volts, otherwise it will be inefficient and buzz!

[@JAKOB1977]

The Minghe is like 11 or 12USD delivered across the globe.. aint the Rui Deng like 3x times that so really aint apples to apples.

[@Ultrasonictwo]

wow that is some horrible output ripple !... I'm surprised at the ringing as that is a design fault.. Id stick some big caps on the out put of that thing to see if you can tame that. I have a 1F Car audio cap om my out put, That's mainly cos i just had it lying around. FYI much better review... Would be cool if you could test the efficiency with a voltage difference and actually do the math on the efficiency

[@XwpisONOMA]

The product is DPH-3205 NOT BPH-3205 !!!

[@AdamWelchUK]

Thanks - a typo which has lasted too long!

[@ufohunter3688]

I've tested both and they are both bad/cheap implementations. The electrolytic caps are low quality and not large enough to filter the transients at more than ~1Amp output. A good rule of thumb is 470uF for each Amp output. Try replacing the electrolytic caps on the input and output with higher value, high quality, low ESR caps, like genuine Rubycon's. The MingHe uses only 470uF caps and the RD uses only 330uF. Way too small for those output ratings. None of them use a choke filter on the output stage either. FCC or ULA approved? Of course not! When (not if) they catch on fire, who do you sue? Will the insurance company pay you when your house or shed burns down? I doubt it. As always, "Buyer beware".