Running 5W-30 Oil in a 5W-20 Engine?

[@aaronfrench8322]

We run 5W-30 in all our Ford trucks at work, even the ones that recommend 5-20, we’ve never had any issues as a result of this. The 5W-20 recommendation from Ford is generally put there as an emissions/efficiency thing to please the EPA, but if you’re going to be working the engine a little harder it’s recommended to use 5-30

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Concur w youse guys! 0w-20 has been PROVEN not to protect engines long term as well as a 5w-30, almost all mechanics agree in this! I won't run any less than a 5w-20 now, based on Lexus' own data. I own a 2017 Lexus LS, Lexus recommends "only 0w-20! period! We mean it!" Meanwhile somebody I know drives my exact same car, but in Ireland. (Same year same engine). Lexus owner's manual for Ireland says he can run ANY multigrade oil, from 5w-30, 10w-30, even 15w-40! Now WHY would Lexus say this for the same car, same engine, but a different country? Well, you know who is responsible for this horrible, horrible advice to US car owners...

[@Vultain]

There was no change to the bearing clearances. Technically in Africa and Australia they recommend up to a 5W40 in weather exceeding 100F.

[@JJD-9403]

Absolutely correct

[@ACEGAMER120]

@@aaronfrench8322 Fun fact: Ford RETROACTIVELY changed the recommendation from 5W30 to 5W20 on many vehicles from the 90s and early 2000s. So vehicles that had 5W30 on the cap suddenly were recommended 5W20 by Ford. Like you said. It's all emissions BS. Some vehicles still have the little charts that recommend different viscosities based on ambient temperature and what sort of duty the vehicle is performing. They 100% base viscosity recommendations on the thinnest oil they can get away with to make the engine last JUST long enough for an "average life cycle". Longevity is pretty far down their priority list. Always bugs me when people say "Oh you think you know more than the engineer who designed it?" Like...that's completely irrelevant because the engineer was told to find the thinnest oil possible without the engine blowing up under warranty.

[@Vuhjayjay68]

Should I up the weight in my 2020 Subaru that calls for 0-20

[@Jeffrey_Pyefinch]

You got it mostly right. I was a powertrain engineer at Ford during the transition from 5W--30 to 5W-20. The reason for the change was to help meet CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) standards. The lighter weight oil results in lower frictional drag on the rotating components which results in a small increase in fuel economy. While engine wear was extensively test and found to me acceptable, the final go/no go decision came down to engine sealing. The ability of the engine seals and gaskets to keep the lighter weight oil on the inside of the engine. The biggest concern being the crank seals. Any retroactive change in oil recommendations would be restricted to engines that were able to pass all testing with no modifications. That said it was the universal opinion of any of the engineers that I worked with that our personal vehicles would be switched to 5W-30 at the first oil change. I have to roll my eyes every time I get an oil change at the various arguments I get as to why, "I really should use the manufacturers recommended oil."

[@reidthemanual]

@@Jeffrey_Pyefinch I GREATLY appreciate your comment. It is great to actually get information from someone with firsthand knowledge. As a fellow engineer, I completely understand how not all “engineering decisions” are critical, and there are many potential motivations for design changes. Many people have commented about variations in oil weight recommendations for the “same engine” being sold in different markets. Do you know if this would be connected with physical assembly changes or if it was truly “same engine, different oil?”

[@Jeffrey_Pyefinch]

@@reidthemanual There is no easy answer to that question. It is common to have different versions of an engine to meet local regulations coming off one assembly line. But usually these are minor variations of bolt on components and not differences to the engine core that would affect something like oil requirements. Conversely you could have the same engine being produced at different locations that could have major differences in processes that could make the base engine core incompatible. An example of the first scenario, it used to be common to have "California" and a "49 State" versions of an engine because California has their own stricter emissions standards. You could have differences or addition/deletion of components in the PCV, EGR, or "Smog Pump" systems. These may also require different exhaust manifolds or different front end accessory belt routings. An example of the 2nd, the first engine program I worked on was the 5.8L/351CID. The engine was produced in two locations, Windsor Canada and Chihuahua Mexico. The cylinder boring and honing process had been updated in the Windsor plant to reduce the amount of oil that could make it past the rings into the combustion chamber, to reduce harmful emissions from the burning of the oil. The Mexico plant did not get upgraded, so an engine built in Windor could be shipped to Mexico but a Mexico engine could not go in a US/Canada vehicle because it could not pass North American emission standards. This engine was discontinued before the transition to lighter weight oils but my guess would be the Windsor engine would handle the lighter oil just fine but the Mexico engine may not due to high oil consumption and unacceptable emissions. But in the examples cited here the most likely explanation for different oil recommendations probably comes down to small markets with unique testing requirements. They mandate the lighter oil for North America to meet CAFE and will do whatever testing is required to meet emissions because they need access to the market. But in a small market region where there is no driving reason to make the change it is not worth the time and money to do local testing to ensure compliance so they just stick to whatever oil recommendations they already had tested/approved in that market. Or another possibility is in very hot, or high altitude, or harsh duty markets they may specify a heavy weight or synthetic oil for durability reasons. Long answer I know, but I hope that answered your question.

[@Meche697]

Many places will ONLY change what's in their computer. I typically do my own and had moved to an apt. *** Lube Mart gave me HELL, even after I showed them the manual (2005 vehicle). Made me sign a waiver. Still have that car!

[@Jeffrey_Pyefinch]

@@Meche697 I have not run into that situation yet. It would be a quick thank you, I will go elsewhere. Like you I prefer to do my own but for now do not have anywhere to do it. Cheers.

[@rogerbritus9378]

What an answer! As an ME who spent many nights watching over red-hot engines blowing up in test chambers, I fully agree. ​@@Jeffrey_Pyefinch

[@chdjhns]

I've been changing my own oil for 40 + years and have never pre-filled my oil filter

[@georgebailey6307]

I was like "what??" Oil pump draws the oil from the pan Not the filter haha

[@dudebud007]

exactly

[@spaceghost8995]

​@@georgebailey6307 Yes but often it goes from the pump through the filter FIRST before going elsewhere.

[@rafaelruiz8194]

Rubbish!

[@ReliableGuy-sb8fb]

Pre-filling your oil filter is a personal “feel good” feeling mechanics get. It gives you the impression you’re doing a better job than the other guy. I've done it, and I’ve not done it, makes absolutely no difference and it’s kinda hard to do when the filter is in a horizontal position.

[@flyingbeaver57]

Working in the far north of Canada in the winter, I began using 0W-20 on the advice of a mechanical engineer I'd met years earlier. He was a specialist in Tribology & Lubrication, both practical and theoretical. The difference in engine operation as well as engine wear - all for the better - was obvious very quickly. During the short but warm summer we switched to 5W-30 - but at summer temperatures 5W-30 is a liquid while in the Arctic winter, it may as well be a brick. I had one GMC 3/4 ton, a '78 crew cab 350 c.i. V8, purchased from the o/o with 150,000 km on the odometer. Shortly after buying it, I installed an optional GM OEM high output oil pump and a better radiator - not a big deal in that model, with lots of room to work. When I finally gave that truck up because of body rot, it had almost 780,000 km on the clock - and no failures or issues. The engine still ran like a top - so much so that the buyer pulled the whole engine and drivetrain out, then dropped it into another GMC pickup that had a decent body but clapped-out motor (I wish I'd thought to do that!). That was 2016, and that truck it's still his daily driver work vehicle. I bought a much newer GMC extended cab (not 4-door). Although it's good truck, and has "features" not available in 1978, I miss the old crew cab, all 7200 pounds of her. For all that the "Mary Ellen Carter" was "plain base model" inside, that truck was a pleasure to drive, and never let me down even in the worst conditions. Oil does make a difference. It depends on many things, some of which the makers tell you, some they don't. Extreme climates are not high on the list in the USA, but they're a fact of life here. As far as oil selection, I now know just how much difference it can make.

[@ericbredvick813]

Very impressed by your comment or better yet your long last 78, 3/4 ton, GMC , 350. W/4dr. The added larger radiator and high output oil pump was keen thinking. Would be cool to see data on how much difference those components made even individually. I imagine theres probably an app or progam that could do that these days lol. I had a 1981 chevy 4x4, 4dr. Four spd. With a 454. Bought it when the oilfield went down in late 80's in Kansas. Turned it into a winch truck to haul trees at my tree care buisness. The 454 laid down pretty quickly and purchased another rebuilt or crate for $1,200 in 1990. The truck was a good solid runner for years. I have driven many models and always say they all have good things and bad things about them. But I thing Chevy but mainly GMC has alot more good things. My GMC I loved was a 2000 YUKON XL 4X4 had the 5.3 but I dont know if it was in the 3/4 ton class. I dont think so. But I had 350,000 miles and still going strong before I had to part with it. I normally used puckups but came upon the Yukon. WhatI ende liking so much besides the heated seats is that this was the longer Ykon with three seats. I removed the third seat and had a wonderful tool and storage area safe from eyes cuz tinted. But out of the weather also. I just agree with you in having certain vehicles you can deoend on. The 350cid was or still is a very good long lasting motor imo. The 5.3 and the 4.8 are great motors and with a small investment can increase the piwer greatly. So besides being impressed with your GMC I never read anything about your take on the 5/20 or 5/30 oil differences. I do think about the piston ring sidewall tolerances which is very important. I also adter all these years duscovered that synthetic oil isnt a man made with added synthetic ingredients like teflon etc. But is a purer form of the crude oil. Your friend who did the oil studies on lubricatiin an so firth. Did he give tptou tips that guide your chouces of oil aling with the brand or viscosities that you use today as a guide for which weight or brand to use? I can easily see 0/20 in your local for newer motors. And lastly did your friend guide you on filter choice or brands and how long berween changes including setting or milage. Or do you just follow stand manufacturers instructions. Thank you for your article.

[@doodskie999]

I run 10w-40 on my cars for years. I live in a hot tropical climte and bad traffic. Never had an issue

[@VanaConn]

engines with variable valve timing have very small passages I learned and different requirements. My Honda Element K24 four cylinder or the Honda S2000 are good examples

[@Mr_Joseph979]

​@@VanaConn yup! I once had my car worked on by a mechanic I didn't know in an emergency. He put in conventional 5w40 and my car felt the difference immediately from the all synthetic 0w20 I usually use. I ended up having to change my vvt solenoids. Never again!

[@frankvonfrauner]

I do the opposite. I run 0w20 in my 5w20 engines because it gets really cold here and I need to get the oil flowing on those really chilly days

[@doodskie999]

@@Mr_Joseph979 To each his own. As they say, any oil is better than no oil. Ive run 10w-40 on my Honda, Forester, even a 3 cylinder mirage and I haven't had any issues. Although I use fully synthetic oil and change every 10k. I don't live in winter/cold areas, here its about 20-40 degrees throughout the year

[@Mr_Joseph979]

@@doodskie999 I agree with you. Whatever suits the vehicle best. Better than no oil, true

[@scottamy6496]

I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 in my 2024 Mazda Miata Club in North Carolina that calls for 0w20 and I haven’t had any issues and will continue using it! I don’t have to worry about extreme cold weather starts and the minimal effects on gas mileage are of a lesser concern than engine protection for me…just my take!

[@mobilesofatvwatcher1703]

Hello, I have a Honda fit and the car manual says i can use both 0W20 or 0w30 but it says that 0W20 is for better fuel efficiency. Do you think there is a difference when using 0w20 compared to 0w30 in terms of engine power and fuel efficiency? The temperature is between 18 degrees celcius and 34 degree crocus where i live.

[@billman6364]

@@mobilesofatvwatcher1703 either one will be fine for your Fit or even 5-30

[@AndY1ksi]

European specification for the MX5 is 5W-30. I use 5W-30 Amsoil Signature series for my 2019 2.0 Miata. After 120.000km engine purs like a cat :)

[@lway8545]

Run nothing less than 5w30. Less viscosity is only for mpgs.

[@dirtypaws6328]

Zero oils evaporate, if your going performance 5 and 10's

[@Mark-s7d6l]

My '12 Hyundai sounded like everything was rattling around inside the engine on 5W 20. One day I accidentally put my pickup oil (10W 30) in it, the engine sounded so good I never went back. 5 years now, no problems.

[@kskate91]

What model Hyundai do you have? I have a ‘14 accent. I been thinking about trying 5w30 in it and it calls for 5w20 viscosity oil. You can hear all kinds of noise when you first start in the morning what sounds like maybe piston slap or chains moving around or cams idk but it’s noisy lol

[@Mark-s7d6l]

@@kskate91 2013 Azera, 3.3 v6.

[@Sube-Tube]

I wish hyundai/ kia engines weren't such absolute dogshit

[@sustang]

That’s honestly amazing considering that’s one of the years known to have bearing issues

[@Mark-s7d6l]

@@sustang It was the 4 cylinder engines that were affected. Mine is V6. They didn't put that engine in anything but the Azera and Genesis that year. That was before they separated out Genesis as it's own name. Hyundai always wanted to be the high end rooty snooty car company. They just don't have the DNA for it.

[@XRQ9]

I've been running WalMart 5W-30 and filters in my Tacoma four-banger since new in 1998, every 5K miles. Never filled my filter first. Just changed oil at 445K miles last week. Still getting 29 mpg.

[@dukecraig2402]

Always fill your filter first, just because your engine hasn't blown up from not doing it doesn't mean anything, Larry Lake (The oil geek) has already gone over this and explained the same thing I've been explaining to people for years about what you prevent when you pre fill your filter, I'm not going to type my thumbs off going over it but watch his video, I know you think you've proven something having never filled your filters on a 445K motor but you haven't, you've just been lucky is all, please don't go around telling people it's not necessary, there's lifetime smoker's that have been lucky to, contrary to what they believe they're not proof that smoking doesn't cause cancer, it's just that the other 99 out of 100 people aren't around to tell him different.

[@soulessm8015]

I've been doing same thing still running cars. 😉👍🏼

[@georgewolfiii1170]

Prefilling the oil filter is obvious!

[@thebancfamily8645]

I chuckle reading the two responses that shame on you for not pre filling the filter. The reality is that it’s shameful that they think they can ignorantly argue a point. Fyi haters, the oil filter fills up in a about a second 😂😂😂 And p.s. 450k miles DOES prove something😂😂

[@dukecraig2402]

@@thebancfamily8645 Oh yea, don't listen to a 40 year engine builder like me, go ahead, blow air through bearings for "just a second" that are supposed to be constantly riding on a cushion of oil, yea that's real good for them, you'll show us you know better. What do you do for a living? Maybe you should stick to giving people advice concerning that.

[@davidpotter7484]

I haven't seen any modern car manuals, but in every old one there was a list of different oil grades to use for operating in different ambient temperatures. It's never been a one size fits all situation. And as far as i know, the natural laws of physics haven't changed.

[@ranger178]

yeah, you used to get that a range to use i have seen some cars like my toyota say you can substitute 5w20 for 0w 20 if it is not available, but you have to change back to 0w 20 at next oil change. or what happens the thought police comes and arrests you? it never says why.

[@scottbrown7415]

The quality and additive packages have changed dramatically since 1985.

[@wyleFTW]

That's why we run Castrol conventional 10-40 in EVERYTHING

[@atlucas1]

@@scottbrown7415 Yea the laws of physics haven't changed, but the oil chemistry sure has. Better additives, full synthetics, there are oils that are basically "custom assembled" from natural gas. Physics are the same, but it's still a different game.

[@Edwarddiaz21]

​@@scottbrown7415 tha5 has not a thing to do with viscosity.

[@sparkplug1018]

Been running 5W-40 diesel oil in my 5W-30 car for a long time now, fuel economy barely changed at all and the engine is so clean inside it looks like a fresh rebuild.

[@pauloconnor7951]

Very good tip. I'm going to do that .👍

[@sparkplug1018]

@@pauloconnor7951 I wouldn’t recommend it long term though, from what I’ve seen the higher molybdenum content can damage catalytic converters over time. Not sure how true that is since newer trucks have them too, but thought I’d mention it

[@pstreetgarage7304]

I do the same in older vehicles

[@THEjasonTDI]

@@sparkplug1018 Nope. Even the 15W oils are all DPF safe. Many years ago, yes but not for a decade. I own a German Diesel shop.

[@sparkplug1018]

@@THEjasonTDI Never been sure if it will damage a catalytic converter or not, but better safe than sorry so I pass the warning on

[@stevemccooleq]

Ford went to 5w-20 only to help meet US CAFE standards, not for any improved engine protection. My daughter has an 07 Focus with the 2.0 ltr engine. In the US, Ford requires 5W-20 but for the exact same engine in Europe they call for 5W-30.

[@rickh8380]

Thank you for that info. I will start putting 5W-30 in my 2008 Focus.

[@JJSmith1100]

Ford South Africa's website actually recommends 15W40

[@shockingguy]

@@JJSmith1100 that’s because of the warmer temperatures

[@Bobthebuilder.69]

@@shockingguy it's fine for all climates. We've ran 5w30 in all our service trucks without any issues since they were new. They all have tons of miles now

[@ACEGAMER120]

@@JJSmith1100 I know a number of people who run 15w40 diesel oil in nearly all of their gasoline engines. Fantastic stuff due to all the extra detergents and other additives. A bit too rough on cold starts for my climate though

[@Cammy_The_Camaro]

It's true. The EPA will recommended a thinner oil for better fuel economy. This is not necessarily better for the engine. However, some engines need the thinner oil for tighter bearing clearances.

[@michaellauer3397]

Today’s piston rings are very skinny, very low tension, the crankshaft bearing clearances are somewhat tighter, And the valve lash adjusters are tiny compared to the old school lifters. Quaker State and Pennzoil probably focus more on making the most money on oil. (i.e. cutting costs.)you’d be hard pressed to find a lower quality. Same with the filter. If you had been using Motorcraft filters, Motorcraft oil or Valvoline and changing your oil at a reasonable interval, that engine would easily go over 300,000 miles.

[@Osiris02]

Yeah my car needs 0w16. I'm afraid of putting anything heavier on there since I know Toyota has tight clearances.

[@thewireman134]

​@Osiris02 i have ran 0w20 full synthetic in my Corolla Hybrid for 88k miles. No issues.

[@tomkrause62]

@@thewireman134 150,000 on my Camry, 0w-20 since day 1. Just did the 150K oil change last week, hadn't burnt any in the 5000mi since the last change, and oil was still caramel colored.

[@thewireman134]

@tomkrause62 i like to think I'm providing a little extra protection for basically negligent loss of mileage.. still achieve 60mpg daily, have gotten in the 70s and 80mpg range on my 50 mile commute a bunch of times

[@kimmillard9445]

When you read the spec sheets, the kinematic viscosity difference between a 5w-20 and a 5w-30 at 100c is very small. The 20 will be someting like 8.8 while the 30 will be about 10 in a fully warmed-up engine.

[@johnlong9494]

Meaning?

[@e.r.videography6209]

@@johnlong9494meaning it’s ok to use5w30

[@SmooveBee1]

@@johnlong9494 meaning - virtually no difference between the 5 20 and the 5 30 at any temperature.

[@nmh5001]

Yep. Buy whichever is cheaper.

[@AOTanoos22]

It highly depends on what 5w-30 oil you are talking about. The Ravenol VMP 5w-30 i use has a viscosity of 11.9 at 100c while the Ravenol DXG 5w-30 has a viscosity of 11.1, although both have the same grade. The SFE 5w-20 from the same brand has a viscosity of 8.5 at 100c. While its not bad for the engine there is quite a noticeable viscosity difference of up to 3.4 within the same brand from 5w-20 to 5w-30 weight oil.

[@glenndent6626]

2014 V-6 Toyota Tacoma. I run full synthetic Valvoline 5W 30. I switched to Valvoline years ago. Take a quart of whatever oil you use and a quart of the same weight of Valvoline, dip a finger of your left hand in one and the same finger on your other hand in the other. Start rubbing your oily fingers together with your thumbs. The oil that's still slippery after the other gives out is the one you should be using. I trashed an engine running an inferior oil. I'll use Valvoline thank you.

[@motersickel]

Only thing you got to keep in mind is if the engine has VVT with the cam phasers and such. If you put something super thick in it it'll start throwing codes having to do with the VVT system. some vehicles won't even run right. I usually use 10W-40 on anything that is pushrod or doesn't have VVT. If you have a vehicle with a 3.7 or 4.7 Dodge /Chrysler/ Jeep engine, do not use a thicker oil it can cause rocker arms to be thrown off on startup. Usually more prevalent on higher mileage engines.

[@adamhorton1601]

Any risks of using 20 vs 30 are going to be similar risks as not prefilling your filter (sideways, upside-down, and cartridge filters?) and priming the system with clear flood (carbed engines, diesels?) All of it is negligible through the life of an engine really. Some manufacturers have suggested that prefilling the filter can damage it internally upon startup and most manufacturers offer an oil viscosity guideline chart to aid in using the correct viscosity oil for the ambient temperature. My experience is that the frequency of oil and filter change and the quality of the filter is paramount compared to almost anything else with regard to engine longevity. And we haven't even touched on the air quality side of the engine, which can be less forgiving in many regards to engine longevity than oil quality.

[@aliendroneservices6621]

Gasoline quality is also a significant factor in engine-longevity (because it affects fuel-injectors, which affect oil-dilution by gasoline).

[@Doomzdayxx]

Lake Speed jr has a great video on the benefits of prefilling the filter. Spoiler alert, it IS a good idea and will do the opposite of damage anything.

[@adamhorton1601]

@@Doomzdayxx if it's such a good idea, how to you prefill sideways, upside down, and cartridge filters and not damage your engine? I'll go check the video out and see what it's about, thanks!

[@Doomzdayxx]

@@adamhorton1601 I would say you simply pull a fuse or relay and crank for a few seconds. The filter will get filled at lower and fewer rpms. I believe it's addressed in the video. Now, for all intents and purposes, is the damage done without oil flow, for a split second negligible? Probably so, haha.

[@Doomzdayxx]

@@adamhorton1601 I had the same question about my Camry and Civic. On that note, were these horizontal filter orientations designed this way for planned damage? Maybe but who knows....

[@indridcold8433]

The suggested oil is only for vehicles under 100.000 kilometers. When a vehicle gets old, ignore the suggested oil weight. The engine tolerances will not be the same as new. My vehicle with 720.000 kilometers, is now using 15W40 in winter and 25W50 in summer. There has been no issues. I have had the vehicle since new. It suggested 5W30 back in mid 1996.

[@pliedtka]

But none of new engines currently produced use technology from 1990s. Even some of early 2000s engines would be very unhappy running something thicker than 5w-40 in moderate climate. The oil control rings draining channels and channels in piston are so small that tick oil can't flow through. And new engines with variable cam timing use oil pressure/flow to control cam angles. So, while switching from 0w-20/30 to 5w-30/40 in hot climate would make sense running thick oil in cold climate will not be a good thing. My brother had 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 in line six (old technology), he did close to a million km running 10W-30 Mobil1 synthetic, but a lot of it were highway miles. Almost unbelievable for a Chrysler.

[@kkoch666]

Lmfao!

[@waynerohde1036]

​@@pliedtka the 4.0 was a good engine

[@eviljesus6111]

The 4.0 is VERY POWERFUL ​@@waynerohde1036

[@PSA78]

If it's that big of a difference then it's worn out. 😂

10W-30 is even better in hot climates like Arizona.

[@laurapalmerTDGE]

I don't know what vehicle you drive, but a solid 10w30 is an added value I am actually Belgian so I live in Belgium but I order a 10w30 for a specific application via Germany. And then more specifically the 10w30 XL Boosted from Amsoil, because that is the only one that is able to cool an engine / certainly in Arizona as it should. In addition, it is excellent in terms of fuel economy. But above all it is a stay in grade like no other. I also use the SS Diesel 10w30, the quality of which is simply amazing. And worth the money. Grtz

[@markwarnberg9504]

You mean a 40 weight? The lower number is for cold weather starting, it doesn´t get that cold in Arizona. In summer with 110f the 10w40 or 15w40 is a good choice.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Yes, and it kind of bothers me there are millions of drivers in super hot climates still running 0w-20 just because the car maker says to! They are not doing their engines any good running that muddy water in their crankcase, at all.

[@markwarnberg9504]

@@robertmaybeth3434 They follow the manufactuers reecommendation...or the shops they take their cars to. It´s the garantee that put them over a barrle.

[@MatthewFischer-k9o]

The W number means absolutely nothing in relationship to operating in hot climates, 5w30 and 10w30 are the same at running temperature. You'll wanna try a 5w40 or a 10w40 for a thicker running temperature viscosity.

[@daddybotz]

Depends on the season. During summer, I run heavier oil, 5-40. Cooler season, I run 5-30 as recommended by manufacturer.

[@vernebowers8116]

Especially in summer I run 5W-30. 5W-20 seems fine for winter. Regular changes are most important!

[@2146USMC]

I’ve been running 5w30 instead of 5w20 on my f150 for years.. no problems.

[@cantwealljustgetalong2]

we have 2 cars that 0w-20 is "recommended' in, as soon as we bought them i started them both on 5w-30, no issues at all

[@Davido50]

That's fine just use hearty oil like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum/ Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage OR Valvoline EP/ Valvoline restore & protect. Only own Ford F150 4wd trucks. 05 F150 4wd 362k mis / 23 F150 Tremor 33k mis. Engineering perspective. -Western Ohio

[@Davido50]

​@@cantwealljustgetalong2 Depends on oil being used & OCI consistency.

[@gregatron4528]

Agreed, the 3.5 fords want 520 unless it has turbos which is 530 so it's fine this way.

[@jayer-su3hu]

I stumbled across this video and I'll share my life experience. My family has owned several different vehicles from various manufacturers over the yrs. Regardless of what was recommended we ALWAYS used (and stil use) Pennzoil 10w30. Never an issue from any vehicle that was oil/lubrication related. I refuse to run that water thin oil in my vehicles

[@francislopez8090]

water is heavier than oil in most cases. Stop spreading fiction.

[@Kopernicus67]

I do. Especially in a car where in another country they recommend the higher viscosity. My WRX calls for 0W-20, but the Japanese version of the car recommends 5W-30. I run 5W-30. It is a high compression + turbo car.

[@PRO4XKEV]

My 2018 Forester XT had the 2.0 turbo, it took 5w-30 from factory.. oil cap said 5w-30..

[@davidanderson8469]

Let that turbo rest a minute or so before shutting it down.

[@TheTangeriner]

Way our small shop does oil change is: Open cap (i like to pull up the dipstick for air flow) Drain pan Remove filter Close pan Put on filter Fill oil Close cap (and dipstick if lifted) Start car to fill filter Turn off car Clean and remove dipstick Put nback dipstick and check oil level 5 litre cars are easiest, most bigger engines (including the oil pan connected to it) i go 6.3 litres which is 6 litres and 300 milliliters from a measuring cup for cooking and thst usually is safe. I think some msy even take more in rare cases.

[@rjaybruhh]

*_According to science Penzoil is probably the top motor oil 👌🏽_* The additive packages are really good compared to Mobile 1 and other brands. There is also Amsoil but it is overpriced.

[@warrengauthier4699]

How long have you been working for Penzoil? Quaker State enters the chat.

[@Chicagoguy1984]

@@warrengauthier4699 Both are the owned by SAME company SOPUS !!

[@429thunderjet2]

​@@warrengauthier4699 penz, quaker & shell are all under SOPUS= Shell.

[@McCarthyism_by_Youtube]

​@@warrengauthier4699he doesn't work for Pennzoil, he can't even spell it right. His arbitrary claim of top oil is judged mostly on price point and marketing. why is it that engine oil is the only product selling in reverse inflation? isn't it supposed to be a dwindling resource? gasoline comes from crude so why's it 3x the price from 1994 while mobil1 is 1/3 its 1994 price? I'm interested in how you guys think 1994 Mobil1 would compare to 2024 Mobil1 performance-wise

[@warrengauthier4699]

@McCarthyism_by_KZbin : I just buy oil based on the oil ratings on the jug. And synthetic oil is synthetic. The brand is irrelevant. I do not understand the Royal Purple people.

[@murrayjimm]

I have been using Quaker State 5:30 for 8 years and no hemi tic has ever started in my ram. Most truck guys recommend 5 30 rather than 5 20

[@reidthemanual]

Hi, Jim. Are you using the Quaker State Full Synthetic or SAE oil?

[@murrayjimm]

@@reidthemanual full synthetic, called ultimate protection.

[@reidthemanual]

Nice! Full synthetics are the way to go nowadays.

[@charleskitchenman2915]

I run valvoline extended protection high mileage 5w30 in my ram 5.7l.......... super quiet and smooth..... gtl base stock

[@hauseofraf]

@@charleskitchenman2915valvoline uses Shell base stock?

[@ValentinArzola]

5W 30 will not hurt your engine. You will see an efficiency drop, but nothing will happen to your engine. I have always used Penzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum 5W-30 on my 2010 Ford F150 4.6l and changed the oil no more than every 4000 miles. I ended up 243k miles before I replaced the engine.

[@MarkButler-rb8cz]

Exactly and if you go too thick on these newer cars oil may not get up to the heads and they will tick louder then you can do some damage cars with timing chain problems id stick with the recommended oil or 1 size up but no more

[@honda3wheeler]

I currently drive an 02 ford escape with the 3.0l duratec at 241k mi, it leaks but it runs goods, my dad usually does the oil changes, he kinda puts whatever in it 20 or 30, doesn't make a difference pretty sure they recommend 30 in that engine in Europe

[@rarelycold6618]

​@honda3wheeler my 06 mazda 3 2.3L recommenda 5w-20 in the US and 5w-30 in Mexico. Going to switch to 5w-30 next oil change

[@shrek_428]

the only difference between the two are that the 5W30 gives you a little more thickness at higher temperature ranges. my truck is rated to use either.

[@michaelwood875]

yep, higher temps and hwy use...

[@erichoosier7914]

I wouldn't put quaker state oil in my lawn mower ...

[@thomasfosterjr.5247]

Funny, I've always said the same thing about Penzoil

[@andrewps84]

I disagree…between it and Valvoline, those are my favorite brands.

[@ricka.a.]

The bias against Quaker State and Pensoil. Is because of the high parafin content still in the base oil after refining. On vehicles that are primarily driven short trips. The parafin ends up as a sludge buildup. For long distance driving. The natural parafin is actually added protection and lubrication.

[@andrewps84]

@@ricka.a. I don’t know about Quaker State but Pennzoil is one I won’t use because of the wax buildup that allegedly occurs. I know they’re corporate siblings but I’d assume they have some unique identity.

[@ricka.a.]

@@andrewps84 both companies oil wells are in the same region. Crude oil from that region has some of the highest parafin content in the world. The parafin is only an issue, with vehicles that don't get driven enough at full operating temperatures. Most of the parifin is removed during the refining process.

[@virgilwyatt4632]

I have a 2003 Acura CL Type S with a 3.2 liter SOHC V-TECH V-6. It requires 5W-20 but several years after the car was no longer in production, the manufacture changed the recommendation to 0W-20 but I had switched to 5W-30. During an al lib conversation with my mechanic at the dealership's repair garage, he told me to switch back to the 5W-20 or begin running the 0W-20 because the thicker viscosity is hard on the engine during cold starts, especially during the winter months, the oil can't efficiently travel from the sump of which means technically the engine has a higher level of wear & tear. Also, the tighter tolerances of OHC engines would be reason to use the factory specified weight of engine oil. My 2019 Acura with a 3.5 liter SOHC V-TECH Direct Fuel Injection uses 0W-16. For the record, the 2003 engine has over 256,000 miles on it and the 2019 has over 60,000 miles on it. No problems from either...

[@adiamondforever7890]

I have found, once you go to a thicker oil, going back to a thinner oil tends to increase oil consumption, as the engine has worn a little because of the difference in the cylinder to ring interface. The difference between 5-20 and 5-30 is not enough to be an issue, but 40 or 50 would make a noticeable difference. I use 15-40 both in my Mustang and my 6.0 power stroke as the first is a flat tappet cam, and the second is a Ford specification for wear (similar issues. Have fun

[@virgilwyatt4632]

@@adiamondforever7890 Usually, it is the switch from synthetic back to conventional oil, even if it is the same viscosity, will tend to lead to oil leaks if switching back to synthetic. A long time ago I would switch back and forth between conventional, to synthetic to partial synthetic depending on how my finances were running, but long ago, I made the decision to stick with full synthetic for all of my cars. They are all Acuras. Besides that, it's the only type of oil the dealership uses.

[@TheSleepingonit]

My Silverado says 5 w30, have the dubious honor of an oil change after 1000 miles due to a hole in the oil filter, so much for K&N

[@AldousHuxley7]

You can just take the filter off and put a qt back in

[@davidanderson8469]

Farm project guy rated the K&N air filter best at flow and worst for air filtration. No word on the oil filters.

[@trolllibtards2604]

Quaker State oil is made by Shell Oil. I run the 5W40 Euro oil in my 05 KIA Sorento 4x4 all year round with zero issues.

[@seikocitizenwatches]

My 2005 Toyota Sienna with 3.3L V6 (timing belt) bought new still ran flawlessly and never needed engine repair except timing belt and water pump replacement as regular maintenance. The 5w 30 standard oil still looked reasonably clean after 5000 miles. I traded it in for the new Toyota Sienna Hybrid when the engine showed signs of weak suspension and I wanted the new Sienna Hybrid. The 2005 never been towed to repair shop, always making to service shop on its own power. Suspension, cold AC, Engine, transmission, electric windows, paint, upholstery, fuel pump never needed service nor replacement after 19 years and 350K miles.

[@tdz69]

People overthink this stuff. Best thing you can do is just perform regular oil changes. It’s probably the most important thing you can do for your car. With the availability of KZbin, there really is no excuse for anyone not to learn basic auto maintenance and do their own. Invest in some tools for your car and your home and handle some of your own repairs. I have no auto repair background (formal). Yet I have done major work on my jeep (unfortunately a necessity with Jeep lol). Saved me thousands.

[@irongoose3865]

Speaking strictly from a stand point of using QS Ultimate 0-20 i just did my first oil change after 3000 miles. My car is new and ran well with QS. There was no noticeable lose of fuel mileage during the 3000 miles and the oil color was a dark red most noticeablely on the dip stick. This is normal and nothing to be alarmed about if you've never seen your oil that color before. It just means your oil is still good and it will eventually turn dark brown or black. It just hasn't gotten there yet. I've read users of Mobile 1 and Castrol say the same thing about there oil color. Its normal, don't be alarmed!

[@GoonSquadLifeMember]

Yah, even if the oil starts turning dark, but still motile, it's doing its job.

[@R90scj]

@@GoonSquadLifeMember A big difference oil turning dark and dirty city stop and go driving vs open highway where a good quality filter will clear up a low mileage darkened oil to almost amber again. Plugs and COPS (coils) replacement time before winter two vehicles servicing this week. Drive safe enveryone, Santa is around the corner .....~~=o*&o>......

[@grandmasmalibu]

If the engine's not getting "loose" from either mileage or maybe from premature wear due to not changing it enough, there's really no benefit going to a thicker oil and that thicker oil will (slightly) reduce mileage. We used to put thicker oil in old engines that had low oil pressure (when hot at idle) to get them by a while longer, but that's just a crutch for the real problem- a worn out motor. Also, do NOT listen to your buddy who puts 20w50 in his race car motor. There are reasons they do that, but none of them apply to your daily driver Camry.

[@reidthemanual]

This 2016 engine has an amazing amount of use on it and doesn’t use a drop of oil. Seems like a well built engine to me! I can’t say the same for the engine in my 1974 F250. :) You’re probably right and this engine doesn’t need the heavier oil, but to know for sure we’ll have to wait and see if the oil analysis shows that it better protected the engine.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

All street engines loosen up, and you already know that's called "breaking in". After researching the matter as well as a layman can, the experts-with-no-agenda tribologists seem nearly unanimous in asserting, zero weight oils do not protect your engine as well as even a 5w. 0-weight, super-thin oils like 0w-8 (which I'd never use in my car even if I got it for free) might achieve a tiny, tiny gain in mileage, but you will never notice it day to day driving. You'd need test equipment and a tribology lab to measure the improvement (if any). Unless you live at the North Pole, there are NO advantages to running less than a 5w-20 and plenty of good reasons not to (the evidence shows they wear out engines prematurely).

[@SSSTANG42]

I don't even put 20w50 in my race car motor because it isn't necessary.

[@100pyatt]

The oil geek has proved this wrong. Going to 5W30 does increase the protection and does reduce the wear metals. The only reason the ultra lightweight viscosities exist is dissatisfy the US EPA Cafe standards. Everything 20w or less reduces engine life

[@ACEGAMER120]

Don't need a worn engine to benefit from a thicker oil. Merely being in a hotter climate can cause a thicker oil to protect an engine better under normal operating conditions. Thinner oils are there to meet emissions standards. Not protect your engine the best. This is especially true for vehicles that experience heavier engine loads like trucks that tow/haul more often.

[@ralphlazio505]

My daughters 2005 Honda CRV with the K-series 2.4L with 250k miles started burning 1 quart of oil in between oil changes using the factory recommended 5w-20. I switched it to synthetic 5W-30; it’s been over a year now, and oil consumption is gone 👍🏼

[@danp7463]

I have an Acura TL with the J-series V6. I'm using 5w20 full synthetic. 4.5 quart's goes in- 4.5 quart's comes out. I'm not consuming anything oil.

[@ralphlazio505]

Well; an old Hi-revving 4- banger compared to V6 big difference.

[@jayhockley8841]

​@@danp7463 Yup , I have a 2005 TL and I run 5w20 too. 150k miles and no oil used . I change my oil every 3k-3,500k miles with Mobil 1 Synthetic. And Although I dont launch it hard I wind it up into higher speeds when Im in deserted open areas . I think the 5w20 is required for the V tec system to operate correctly .

[@JoeBidenIsRetarded101]

What are the requirements for your car in other countries ​@@jayhockley8841

[@TheEdwardDonald]

@@jayhockley8841 I have a 2006 odyssey with the J series V6 and I put 5w-30 synthetic in and change it every 5k miles. I deactivated the cylinder deactivation and 250,000 miles later she doesn't burn a drop between oil changes.

[@thesixgunfighter288]

Have a 14’ F150 5.0, I switched from 5w20 to 5w30 after advice from a pretty knowledgeable Ford tech(and KZbinr from say Dundee, Illinois). I’m fully capable of tearing down and putting back together my 5.0, but he sees way more day to day. Considering I have 309k and I can still run it like a track Mustang, I think it’s better for it.

[@waldrop-q4n]

I did as well at the advice of my mechanic. I also changed to Royal Purple synthetic. I'd change oil about every 7k miles. The engine was running strong with 320k miles, but I sold that truck because I got tired of spending $1200 on coil packs, plugs and labor too often just for a tune-up on that 2005 Triton engine. I was also suspect about the frequent coil pack issues.

[@MatthewFischer-k9o]

To be honest most modern vehicles (2000 to now) can safely expect 5w30 or even 10w30. Furthermore a lot can safely expect up to 20w50. It boils down to satisfying government emissions regulations. Don't believe me? Take any vehicle that's sold in the US but also globally, you'll find that the US marketed vehicles typically call for 0w20 or 5w20 while in other countries you'll always see 5w30 as the base viscosity but can go upwards to 20w50. My 2020 tundra is a prime example of this, the 3UR-FE 5.7 V8 that was offered globally in several Toyota and lexus models calls for 5w30, 10w30, 15w40, and 20w50 world wide, but in the US strictly 0w20. While pulling up the TIS forms for my 2020 tundra it says 0w20 for US and Canadian markets, then blow it says for Mexico 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 15w40, and 20w50. It's all about emissions and hardly about main bareing clearance, though that is still something to consider I'd argue based on my research that 7/10 times the most dangerous part of using thicker oil is ignorance and leaving heavier viscosity oil in cold climates where a lower viscosity would be better. Simply put don't use 15w40 when it's s 20 degrees outside, us a lower W value number like a 5w30 or a 5w40.

[@cruisingthethaiway6881]

Much of what you said is Not true.

[@MatthewFischer-k9o]

​​​​@@cruisingthethaiway6881 Sure thing pal, you're free to subscribe to whatever paradox you like, my findings are objective even if it goes against what you were lead to belive and what you think you know. I've spent lots of time researching this topic and I've used tools and resources as aids. I've studied tolerance, engine block material, bareing materials and clearances, engine temperatures, mineral oil, synthetic oil, additive packages and engine machining, US EPA regulations and the evolution of the EPA. I hate to burst your bubble pal but I'm, not wrong. In fact heavier viscosity oil do indeed provide better wear protection, especially with a good additive package. That's the exact reason why hard working HD engine's call for at lest 5w40 and up to 20w50 even though they're under the same EPA scrutiny. But please by all means, do your own research.

[@100pyatt]

5W20, 0w 18, 0W8, 0w20 all exist because of the EPA and all of them reduce the lifespan of the motor

[@GoonSquadLifeMember]

So you save a few pennies on gas, infinitesimally reduce emissions, but end up scrapping an entire engine. Yep, that's government logic for ya!😅

[@stevecampbell7620]

AGREED. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYiWZHuImJZ0bMU

[@DigbyOdel-et3xx]

Yep. This is what I'm coming up understanding. I'm not going to recommend people one way or another, but I agree this is more government appeasement. Sadly modern cars though up front are impressive by what you get for the now silly prices. Consumer bling to get you to spend lots of money you probably don't have. Lots of crap nobody asked for and needs, only to cost an arm and a leg to repair off warranty. Add along with engineering to make servicing your vehicles expensive and to ultimately see your vehicle be ready for the junk yard in less than 10 years. Just enough time for the first buyer to use it for 3-5 years and one second hand owner to use it for another 3-5 years. Old school cars if you did routine maintenance, most often not super costly could be seen running on the roads 15-20-25 years later.🤔

[@jeffhill3681]

0w8 and 0w16 are different composition than API oils,( mostly DI issues). Japanese engineers wanted certain changes to specifications and the US manufacturers were arguing amongst themselves. Decided they couldn't 'weight ' for the API SP decision, hence the oddball designations.

[@bertgrau3934]

Some engines need the thinner oil because the bearing clearances are much tighter. If you use to thick oils they can hurt the engine. After 100,000 miles you can use heavier oils.

[@SeattleDinghyer]

Part of my favorite songs says motor oil is motor oil, just keep your engine clean. It's worked for me!

[@ComMent-s5m]

I prefill…even on my “side” filter vehicle. No, you can’t get it completely full, but if you fill it 3/4, let it set a bit, it’ll absorb into the pleats, and all is good! Much easier and quicker(better?) to pre fill the filter, than to set and type why it’s not! As for my “top” filter, I simply drilled a hole, threaded it, added a “drain plug”, and use that to “pre-fill” the filter! The first paragraph is true. The second is not, but I know lots of you had a BP spike reading it!!!🙂

[@dukedixon3192]

I had a dodge truck 4.7 and Dodge recommended a heavier oil than was good for the engine. The oil channels in the cylinder head were quite small and would starve the engine of oil, especially when it was cold, which caused mechanical issues. Thanks to the good old internet I found this out and ran a completely different oil and my truck liked it much better. Of course this can only be learned over time because of repeated failures and discovering why. The truck was 10 years old when I bought it so I had a wealth of information available. I’ve recently discovered some people are huge fans of the 4.7 over the hemi. It has less power but I really enjoyed it.

[@RobertDickens2002]

We had a 4.7 in our jeep gc people talk trash about this engine but man was that thing strong.

[@utep212]

Not surprising that the engineers at Dodge can't figure out what oil to use. Fiat and Stellantis certainly haven't helped.

[@fadingbeleifs]

The 4.7 was a powertech engine. They required 5W20 from the factory. Had several of them in the family, and I currently own a 3.7 l power tech V6, which is just the 4.7 with two cylinders removed. So if you're putting something thinner than that in there, I would be shocked if it was still running.

[@reweydewy]

​@fadingbeleifs the 4.7 was around back in 2000 and I believe the spec was 10w30 and switched as the years went on

[@mikeostrander5406]

I have 4.7 with 356,000 miles. I run recommended 5W20. Since my first oil change Pennzoil full synthetic with K&N air and oil filters. If the vehicle gives up the ghost tomorrow I’m buying another 4.7 draining the oil and replacing it with Pennzoil + K&N Filters

[@kennyk5150]

I run 0w 40 in my c6 corvette that wants 5w 20. Runs just fine. Better oil pressure.

[@yy4u2h8me]

You can run a thicker oil in the summertime, it's when you run thicker oil in winter, you will definitely hear a difference... your owners manual shows a graph on ranges of viscosity oils you can use at certain temperatures.

[@BillNye-bj5vi]

5 is 5 makes no difference how cold outside.

[@80sfordguy]

I have a 07 Cadillac Escalade I inherited and it developed low oil pressure concerns. I had the oil pump, pickup tube and oil pan replaced and a little over a year later again oil pressure concerns. I’ve owned the vehicle since 2021 and complete oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles. I used only WIX 57060XP oil filters and Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. Now with oil pressure concerns again I continue to use WIX 57060XP oil filters. Although, I changed from Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 to High Mileage Full Synthetic 10W-40. Oil pressure for now is very good and hopefully remains this way until we decide to trade. It’s no longer financially feasible to keep this 07 Cadillac and keep repairing the “lemon” it’s got to many problems. Currently we using the vehicle and will trade it in when we find time to buy another vehicle.

[@bernhard8540]

How the oil filter is oriented tells you the type of oil system your engine is, a horizontal oil filter means its a "self priming system" and so you dont need to put any oil in the filter, if its a vertical filter it needs to have the filter prefilled before install because its not a "self priming system" just a tip for anyone who does their own oil changes and didnt know for sure❤

[@pauljones5495]

Praying for you and your community. God will not fail. Praying for safe travels helping others. There was a trailer set up at a church in our town last night to take relief items to North Carolina this weekend. You can never out give God.

[@trustthescience2260]

Doesn't god fail everyone in the community when he destroys it with a hurricane or whatever? All the misery, suffering, fear, sadness, disappointment, loneliness, or whatever, in this would could easily be avoided, but god doesn't avoid this because either (i) he doesn't exist or (ii) he's just a complete AH.

[@nilsalmgren4492]

My cap says 5/20 but the owners manual says 5/30 is fine. Running 5/30 now that I'm trying the Valvoline Restore. My sonata burns oil so tried the heavier weight. This restore stuff doesn't burn off as fast.

[@PlumbCarton5607]

That Valvoline restore and protect stuff has been going kinda viral in the oil community it feels like. Glowing reviews, i might try it myself. Apparently it stopped many people's engine from drinking oil too much

[@Methodical2]

Did someone switch the cap?

[@grazz7865]

Do not add a heavier weight eral due to burning. You could damage the pump. Just add eral when it’s about a quart low

[@evilgtidriver]

You should use what the manufacturer suggest. For your warranty and function. A lot of new vehicles have vvt solenoids that run off oil pressure. If you use the wrong weight oil, it can cause them to malfunction and the engine to run poorly, and your check engine light to come on.

[@nilsalmgren4492]

@@evilgtidriver 5/30 is suggested by owners manual

[@electric8668]

Might want to try Valvoline Restore and Protect

[@DRZrider07]

That's what I chose to buy when I decided to switch from the recommended 0w20 to 5w30 in my 22 Hyundai Elantra SE

[@Dannyt951]

Have you tried it?

[@electric8668]

@@Dannyt951 Currently using VRP but haven't driven enough for the first oil change yet.

[@electric8668]

@@Dannyt951 Currently using but not time for oil change yet.

[@DRZrider07]

@@Dannyt951 yes it's in my car now and the only thing I've noticed is my mpg read out climbs a little slower and it doesn't go as high as it did before but not by much

[@boomchang1]

I have 2017 Kia Sedona it calls for 5w-30 but it also can use 10w-30. Might i also add it has a 6 quart capacity, which helps out quite a bit. I just clocked in 122k doesn't miss a beat.

[@kittyfanatic1980]

The second number is the viscosity. It’s still 5 weight cold. If anything it will be added protection when the engine is warm.

[@alainkadlec5574]

For my Kia, the manufacturer recommends 5W20. From the day 1, I put in 5W30, 5W40 and 5W50 all synthetic only. Don't see any differences. I buy the oil when offered at special price. Generally the 5W50 is rarely in promotion. The engine is running smoothly after 13 years of everyday use, mostly on short distances and city driving (140 000 Km so far). No lack of compression. No oil consumption.

[@ShadoCroc]

Old KIA/hyundai engine that doesn't consume oil? Almost impossible regardless of maintenance. I do believe you, its just that i have enough real life experience with their engines.

[@alainkadlec5574]

@@ShadoCroc I don't know if my Kia is old. It is a 2012 Kia Forte with the 2-liter engine. 95% urban driving, On the road, since September 2011.

[@ShadoCroc]

@@alainkadlec5574 Funnily enough, that's their worst engine with the most callbacks and a class action lawsuit or two if I remember.

[@alainkadlec5574]

@@ShadoCroc I know. As a former import car mechanic, I know how to care for those engines and vehicles.

[@libertyforall2940]

@@alainkadlec55742012 was MPI tho before GDI right?

[@scottgroves8876]

As an automotive engine rebuilder, you cannot use 5W30 in an engine that requires. The reason 5w20 is recommended is because the engine bearing have less clearance and a thinner viscosity is required to lubricate properly. A 30 viscosity will not reach these thin clearances to lubricate the bearings properly and will eventually cause engine failure requiring a complete engine rebuild

[@gregorygolden1296]

You are the guy I have been waiting to hear from. I have a '05 Crown Vic Interceptor, and have been on the fence about which oil the 5W-20 VS the 5W-30. Live in So. Fla. Guess the 5W- 20 is the way to go. Thanks.

[@jessefarley4609]

Thank you I did want to type what you said but you are correct. Example the rams will throw cel if wrong viscosity.

[@lincolnls0416]

I use Lucas Oil Stabilizer. My Ford's and Lincoln along with my Firebird. They get 10-30 no matter what. I gotten well over 200k miles, 300k miles, and 1 got over 456k miles. My GMs never lasted 100k miles they broke. Firebird has a rebuilt engine and since I switched to 10-30 it is running better.

[@dsimental6]

I agree, 10-30 for all my vehicles, Tacoma, Oldsmobile, Camaro, Impala SS.Tacoma 4 cylinder over 500,000 Miles, 86 Camaro 367,000, Impala SS (96) over 300,000, and 1992 Oldsmobile 3.1L V6 has 326,000+. All original Motor...😊

[@trullmann]

I run 10w30 in my Gen1 Raptor, runs a hella much better.

[@adairjanney7109]

@@dsimental6 what does the manual say to run it at?

[@dsimental6]

@@adairjanney7109 some state 5-20w other 5-30w, but here in Southern California I always used 10-30w and never had problems. Also I warm up cars for at least 15mins.

[@stevenwest000]

These videos have just improved so much over time, and they were damn good to start with. The team must have some expensive equipment to get the frame rates to the point they are now. I haven’t seen anything so professional, whether on KZbin, TV documentaries or even films. Thanks once again Petter and Co.

[@blackgenesis7472]

Yes. QS 5w30 have been tested to provide significantly higher ware protection. Especially in elevated temps - turbo application

[@wraithmedaberry5795]

Glad I’m not the only one who primes this way. I did it when I used to be a service tech and people thought I was an idiot for this

[@reidthemanual]

10 seconds of your time that might extend the life of an engine? Sounds like a smart decision to me. 🙂

[@jamespayne8252]

Honestly I've never heard of holding the brake and gas while turning it over to Prime the oil, but if that's true my God I'm going to start doing it. Is it only on new vehicles or how far back does it go to be able to do that and why isn't it a more publicized process when changing motor oil?

[@enriqueaguilar8788]

Bs that's all

[@desertbob6835]

​@@jamespayne8252only newer Fords.

[@thomasdaum1927]

@@jamespayne8252 It’s called a flood mode start , my 2003 does it as well as my 2016 Honda Pioneer side by side !…..

[@Infinitylawnsandbeyond]

The dealer one time put 5w-20 in my 2003 f150 5.4 when I specifically asked for 5w-30. By time I left the parking lot I went back and said you put 5w-20 without even looking at the window tag. They admitted they did on accident, the wife then understood why I did my own oil changes! lol 😂😂

[@512Born]

I have a 2006 Lincoln Navigator with 258,000 miles that has the 5.4 3v. I’m debating on whether it’s a good idea to use 5W-30 on my next oil change.

[@Infinitylawnsandbeyond]

@@512Born I would do it.

[@lzcontrol]

On purpose or by accident?

[@affordablevoices]

Someone else touching your car is akin to another woman going into her kitchen and cooking. She will know it an be mad as a Hornet.

[@HammerWrench]

@@512Bornthat 5w30 will help out your tensioners and VCT solenoids. Did the timing set in our 05 Navi because it all failed.

[@u.e.u.e.]

If it is an EcoBoost engine with a rubber timing belt: it's not about the viscosity, it's about the very, very few oils that meet Ford standards. They have an additive package that saves the oil-soluble rubber of the timing belt. These EcoBoost engines blow up one after another here in Europe; some even before 70,000 km! If you're unable to proof: - that you used recommended oils only (every drop) AND - that you changed your oil every time according to Ford's recommendation with a max delay of just 499 km you're screwed - Ford doesn't pay a single Cent!

[@Technotranceism]

LoL Eco Oops engines 😅

[@joelcarson4602]

Eco-BOOM! Ford is now pure garbage. Do Not Buy.

[@hishamgamea]

You are absolutely right for the ecoboost engines due to the wet timing belt

[@genespell4340]

A timing belt in oil. That sounds like a disaster from the get go.

[@u.e.u.e.]

@@genespell4340 Yes! In the meantime this "feature" is NOT Ford-exclusive anymore. 🤪🤦‍♂️

[@ozzzyd922]

I've never heard the prime before combustion, much appreciated brudda 🤙

[@reidthemanual]

You’re very welcome! It’s a super convenient way to prime the oil pump and engine with fresh oil.

[@bigdogsportingtonyb2833]

We build and sell high performance crate motors and also port and modify engine parts. Ive personnel had many different cars, suvs and trucks. My current highest mileage factory never opened engine is a LS 5.3 V8 in my pickup truck that has over 300,000 miles on it and still runs and drives like it did from the factory. No oil burning, compression is still like factory, great fuel mileage and the power can burn rubber on the 33" AT tires. I use Rotella 10w40 in my trucks and suvs and Rotella 10w30 in my regular cars. Rotella has a lot of detergent in it to keep the engine from sludge and anti friction and anti wear additives. Never had a .otor lock up or go out on me!

[@gregorygolden1296]

What is your recommendation for a 4.6 Crown Vic Interceptor motor with 165,000 miles? What oil should I be using? Takes 6 qts. Been using Mobil-1 high milage full synthetic 5w -20. Thanks if you respond. Also use the Motorcraft FL 820 S oil filter..

[@bigdogsportingtonyb2833]

@@gregorygolden1296 as the motor wears and racks up more miles and sludge I would suggest a slightly thick oils with more detergent and anti shock properties added in it.if regular oil changes have been performed then you are ahead of the game. If heavy driving conditions warmer weather then you benefit from a 5w-30 or a 10w 30 Rotella.

[@tylerclontz]

That’s so cute ford gave you the crank option by holding gas and brake! Must be a real problem for them. My Tacoma would start up and immediately go to redline. They also put my oil filter on top, so prefilling the filter would just make a mess trying to flip it and screw it on. I guess Toyota doesn’t have to worry about that split second like Ford does!

[@Isthatujohnwayne]

All the parts inside that engine have coating of oil anyway that split second isn’t gonna harm them

[@danp7463]

​@@Isthatujohnwaynenot only that, Factory trained technician's simply throw on a DRY FILTER, top off with oil start it and check for leaks.

[@markbrickey8418]

It's called "clear flood mode." Just like in the olden days of yore, if you flooded the engine holding the gas pedal to the floor, it would open the carburetor throttle plate, allowing more air into the cylinder In the early days of electronic engine controls, engines could flood due to drastic temperature changes, like in the spring or fall. Warm afternoons but frost in the mornings. Nowadays, it's mainly used for testing, such as performing a relative compression test.

[@indieauthorjasonblayne7511]

I've used FUCHS 5w30, and it works pretty well.

[@gregoryh4601]

Anytime the Government Gets their Hands in any Business it just Causes More Problems in the Long Run. 10w - 30 in all my vehicles and like Valvoline Oil. And please Watch Lake Speed Jr. videos

[@cantwealljustgetalong2]

it sucks we can't get 10w30 and 10w40 in full synthetic or advanced synthetic

[@OutDoorFun3]

@@cantwealljustgetalong2 Walmart, where do you live?

[@Joseph-wp2ry]

@@cantwealljustgetalong2 I just picked up three, 5 Gallon pails of Mobile 1, 15-40 .. We drive in the Midwest and only drive diesel cars and F350. Nothing is worked hard. Easy driving and occasional pull a light duty trailer. Is the 15-40 acceptable ??

[@0zmosis2001]

In the summer I use 10 w 30 🏝️ 🌞 In the winter 5W-30 ❄️☃️ I do this because of the viscosity difference on the principle that in the summertime you want something with a heavier viscosity because of the heat makes your oil thinner, then in the winter you want something a little bit thinner an oil not so viscous because of the cold makes your oil slower too move so on startups you want something that's easier to move around

[@loyalUSguy]

1 bought a car that had 105k miles on it. 305 Chevy. Glovebox was literally full of oil change receipts. 10w-40 Quaker State. Every 3k miles. Lol. Took intake manifold off. Could not see the lifters at all. Just pushrods sticking out of 1 1/2" of sludge. Gotta say that I have never had a professional mechanic ever ask for Quaker State oil. Ran Valvoline 10W- 30 in a '92 Toyota p/u with 22RE engine year round. 90° plus in summer, below zero F in winter. Had head gasket seep at 187k. No ridge on cylinders. Lumps on cam were within specs. Main and rod bearings clean. Replaced head gasket and timing chain stuff. Ran it another 100k without problems. NEVER EVER had to add oil between changes. I did Slick 50 oil treatment at 15k. Ran it dry for a minute or two when I got distracted during an oil change (30k mi?) When I noticed full oil cans sitting on bench. Oops. A short run with no oil pressure should not be an issue on a well designed engine. Nowadays, engines shut off at stops. Restart under immediate load. Let's see how that works in long run.

[@LJC370]

My 04 crv has almost 360k kms on it now, it uses 10w30 instead of the oem 5w20. It burns noticeably less and the results speak for themselves!👍🏻

[@fadingbeleifs]

That's about 224,000 miles.. and even for a Honda, that's still relatively mid-range in terms of the amount of mileage.. You've got something going on there if it's burning more than a quart/liter every 5,000 mi/8,000 km. I have engines with more than half a million miles on them that don't use oil between drain intervals.

[@pliedtka]

The CR-V 2.4L engine is the worst engine Honda produced, and all the CR-Vs our small garage worked on burned oil except one. The owners of this particular CR-V used regular Castrol GTX 5w-30 with 5-6k oil change interval. All the others either burned plenty of oil, some lost compression (burned valves) or in some cases blew up on the road. In a year we did 3-4 engine replacement or repairs (new rings, new valves), and that's a 2 men garage on outskirts of Ottawa. All the engines suffered from clogged oil control ring and excessive carbon build up in compression ring groves. And this could be avoided just by regular oil change at 6k km, even with 5w-20 oil. Some engines just can't manage the usual 8-10k km OCI in Canadian weather.

[@filippocorti6760]

@@pliedtka Your 2 man shop does internal engine work like rings and valves? Impressive.

[@filippocorti6760]

@@pliedtka It seems manufacturers make the OCI too long these days but you would know better than I.

[@skatingsam96]

A lot of people don't know that America is the only country that only recommends one type of oil. Every other country gives you a list of all the oils that can used and what climates they're best in

[@warwickscram1656]

America is weird like that. The poor are the slaves to the rich.

[@Cheepchipsable]

Ha, I didn't know that. I'm in Australia and the manual for my older car has a table with recommended grades, mainly based on ambient temp, so a heavier oil for hotter temps.

[@Silent4.20.1]

I'll try 5w-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect on my yes, 2017 V6 Pentastar with 166,000 miles. Bought it with 162,000 miles and dealership used Pennzoil Platinum. Asks for 5w-20 but same concept as other 5w-20 motors. I've only used 5w-30 or 10w-30 in previous vehicles. If 5w-30 is not a big difference between 5w-20 as far as performance and wear, then I'm confused why they went with it if the price is the same? Let me know if I'm in the ballpark or not as far as using the Valvoline Restore and Protect. After that many miles my Pentastar is probably needing a good oil.

[@dduncan55330]

The main reason for 5w20 instead of 30 is better fuel economy. The original pentastars (running 5w30) also had some issues, mainly the rocker arms failing and eating cam lobes, it's still happens even to this day. I also have a 2017 pentastar and what I've noticed is low oil pressure during hot idle (~20 psi @ 210°) which is crazy low. I think the 5w20 is better here because it moves easier through the engine and most importantly to the top end (lifters, cams, and rocker arms). The pentastar also has VVT which uses oil pressure as one of its variables so it could mess with that. My two cents: my 2017 pentastar has made it to 175k with no engine issues on 5w20 so I'm not going to fix what isn't broken.

[@Silent4.20.1]

​@dduncan55330 You do have a point. These new motors are sensitive and more technical. I'd hate to put a problem where there isn't one yet. Stick to recommended. It's also due for oil change, I'll probably be doing that this weekend. My only iffy part is my relationship with plastic and this one hasn't had the oil filter housing upgrade to aluminum yet so it's all plastic housing and filter adapter. Never changed the oil on one of these yet so I'll make sure to do it right. Thank you for your comment 👍.

[@dduncan55330]

@@Silent4.20.1 I highly recommend upgrading the oil filter housing, thermostat housing, and coolant crossover pipe to aluminum. Consider throwing in a 180° thermostat while you're at it. I did all of this almost two years ago and they have been solid. The thermostat keeps the coolant and oil temps down to 185° while cruising. I'd also recommend getting the transmission fluid and filter changed, assuming you have the 8 speed in your vehicle. Also the rear differential fluid (plus front diff and transfer case if you have AWD). Engine oil changes are simple on the 3.6 thanks to the top mounted filter. Do a change every 4-6000 miles, or 6 months. I would not go more or longer.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Yep i think you're doing exactly the right thing. I own two Toyota V6's, 2001 Solara and a 2002 Camry - just started using R & P in the Solara, 5w-30 not 5w-20. You are supposed to use this oil for your next 3 oil changes for the full engine cleaning effect, so why not use this oil?

[@Silent4.20.1]

@robertmaybeth3434 any big changes to the vehicles as far as using 5w-30 compared to 5w-20? I just used the same weight it asks for this time. Last weekend I did the oil change. The Pennzoil the dealership had in it came out pretty dark after 4000 miles and gauge said it was at 50%? No way do I ever run any kind of oil for 8000 miles. I didn't trust the computer lol.

[@trailwolfzj9762]

Is this oil prime thing with all vehicles.. I like the tip if it's true

[@wadet73]

In my 2003 Dodge Dakota 4.7 just hold accelerator to floor. My 2001 Durango (same engine) doesn't do that. I will try the brake and accelerator on it. If my Dakota sits for a couple weeks, I always prime the oil pump. QS10-30 in my older v8s

[@reidthemanual]

It seemingly works on all modern Ford vehicles (I think they might have invented this feature). Some other manufacturers (Subaru, Aston Martin, Nissan, etc) use it, but I don’t know how common it is. It works on key start and push-button start vehicles. For vehicles with manual transmissions, hold the accelerator and clutch pedals. For vehicles with automatic transmissions, hold the accelerator and brake pedals.

[@reidthemanual]

@@wadet73Good info. Thanks for sharing!

[@Ottonic6]

It's called "clear flood mode", and no, not all cars do that.

[@ajmedeiros77]

Works on my 04 superduty 5.4, 2 valve

[@robrain1344]

Using 5w-20 in my 2006 E150 since I bought it 20009 @ 36,000 miles and a Fram PH2 filter. It's 22000,000 miles now and no issue thank God.

[@omt4293]

Funny….when I got my Ford Freestyle last year (takes 5W-20), my mechanic actually didn’t have 5W-20, he used 5W-30. It actually runs better on 5W-30. Blessing in disguise have stuck to it since.

[@gregorygolden1296]

Wonder if 5w-30 would be better for my 4.6 Interceptor with 165,000 miles?

[@robertsimpson7113]

Try another video in a couple of thousand miles to see if the engine is quieter.

[@ExaltedDuck]

You'll want to be careful about changing oil weight. Higher viscosities can mean lower pressures through constricted passages which can have devastating effects on the engine, particularly in getting oil to the farthest/highest components and in properly actuating hydraulic components like lifters, timing chain/belt tensioners, and variable.valve timing systems. That said, if the rotating assembly is sloppy, thicker oil can take up a very small amount of that. You're better off using premium brand of the correct viscoaity for your engine.

[@tardeliesmagic]

UK driver here, have a 2015 Yaris 1.3L with 90,000m, i use 0-20 for winter & 5-30 for summer. Wondering having a black vehicle makes oil much thinner during hotter weather? That's why the 5-30. Fuel is only a tiny,tiny bit worse but it protects better surely.

[@reidthemanual]

Thanks for commenting! After driving a Ford Focus 2.0L with 5w-20 engine oil, I tried switching to 0w-20 in the winter to try to improve cold weather fuel economy. To my disappointment, I saw no difference in fuel economy between the 0w-20 and 5w-20. The color of your vehicle’s paint will have negligible effects on engine temperature. I have a white vehicle, and I can get my engine running hot or cool just based on how I drive it. Engines need lots of air movement and a proper coolant blend to stay cool. All in all, I suspect that, at normal engine RPMs, fuel economy gain from lighter oils are less significant than wear protection gains with heavier oils. We’ll see how my test results pan out.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Mate I think I'd run 5w-30 year round if I were you but you know what you're doing. And i want you to know something you might find interesting: the manual for my California-purchased 2017 Lexus LS says "use 0w-20 oil only!" Full stop, nothing else! Meanwhile I know somebody with my same car, same engine, but who drives in Ireland. And his Irish owners manual says he can use "5w-30, 10w-30, up to 15w-40 engine oils"! Learning that, I decided I am done with zero-weight oils for good! (Zero weight oils like 0w-20 have been proven, in everything from lab tests to real-world mechanic feedback, to INCREASE engine wear vs. a 5w-30 oil - who needs them?)

[@tardeliesmagic]

@@reidthemanual Thank you for your reply, i didn't get any notification of your comment! I used 0-20 & 5-20 with no difference of mpg so it's not just you, also used 5-30 with just slightly less mpg. Thing is i love Castrol Magnatec as i do short trips & only 1,500 miles a year,it's great but doesn't come in 0-20, in 5-20 it does but it's only recomended for the Ford Eco engines (Wet belt). I'm in a dilemma as i do like Valvoline 2nd best of my oils!

[@tardeliesmagic]

@@robertmaybeth3434 My UK Yaris manual also say "5w-30, 10w-30, up to 15w-40 engine oils" so i emailed Toyota...they replied saying "To only use 0-20" Toyota wants to stick with their fuel consumption bible/ narrative. Think i will go for 5-30 all year round! My 2002 Yaris i had for 13yrs always had 5-30 non stop! Not one issue & the manual say 5-30 or 10-30 can be used. Thing is i love Castrol Magnatec as i do short trips & only 1,500 miles a year,it's great but doesn't come in 0-20, in 5-20 it does but it's only recommended for the Ford Eco engines (Wet belt). I'm in a dilemma as i do like Valvoline 2nd best of my oils! Thanks for the reply....didn't get a notification on your comment. Appreciate your comment also.

[@adrianvasile4683]

For my Ford Escape I used 0W40 mainly in the winter and 5W40. Never had any issues. Both are better than 5W20. Lower viscosity when cold and higher when hot. 0W40 viscosity when cold is anyhow higher than 5W20 when hot. And the viscosity of 0W40 when hot is lower than 5W20 when cold. It's just better. Ford recommends the minimum quality for the oil and it doesn't mean you cannot use a better oil. The problem is that majority of people do not understand what those numbers are beside the fact that higher numbers represent thicker oils. If 0W40 works for Mercedes, BMW and Porsche, it works for Ford too.

[@benreid7567]

My vehicle recommends 5w30 for cold climate and 5w40 for hot climate. My other vehicle recommends 10w30 and 10w40. In many modern engines the tolerance is tighter and components are smaller. You can damage your engine by having too high oil pressure as well.

[@Bobthebuilder.69]

The question is why are you using quaker state? The walmart supertech has a better additive package, especially the synthetics and the supertech is cheaper.

[@reidthemanual]

Bob, this is part of an ongoing evaluation of many oils. Quaker State was the first oil I tested where a couple of viewers suggested going from 5w-20 to 5w-30 based on some testimonies online. Some swear this is (somehow) one of the best engine oils in the world. We’ll see what the data shows. By the way, I plan to evaluate SuperTech at some point. So far, my experience has shown that the additive package only tells part of the story.

[@Bobthebuilder.69]

@@reidthemanual additives are only part of the story but I think you'll have better results with the supertech, which is also the same house brand oil at Costco.

[@lets_dig_a_little_deeper]

Realistically as long as you change your oil every 3000 me it doesn't matter what brand of oil will you buy, as long as you're not beating on your car

[@johnelliott7375]

I have used the Quaker State for decades also Pennzoil and Kendall, I have seen the Kendall and Quaker State oil was once Green or Greenish Deep Reddish color and I have a 1972 Chevy 350 4 bolt mains and I know personally that the old man run either Quaker State or Kendall only if he couldn't get the Quaker State and I got the engine with 34,900​ on it and whenI tore it down because of a couple of valve seals leaking after it sit over night and it would smoke for a little bit say until it got ti 130°F in temperature and it would quit. Inside of that tow truck engine was brand new looking! Guy that owns the machine shop could not believe it, he said in 35+ years he was shocked of how clean it was. Only thing wasein each side of the valley where most of the oil drained back it had a 3" line of wax like someone had melted a blackish green candle on each side. Good luck and great day to you all! @@reidthemanual

[@happydays8171]

​@@lets_dig_a_little_deeper As long as that oil meets the API spec for your car.

[@jonathonsmith7694]

Amazes me how much over thinking done in this world

[@briansaiditsoitmustbetrue4206]

100% Correct...Just use the oil it says in the owner's handbook... No drama.

[@benjaminp6924]

Is it worth it? Well what did the lab results revile? 5-20 in winter 5-30 in summer I usually do 15-40 in my older GMV8s in summer

[@bobjohnson205]

Reveal.

[@xrwit74]

My grand prix calls for 10w 30. I put 0w 20 and it was almost a half second quicker 0-60 mph. No knocks or rattles and have had no issues since I started using it 60,000 miles ago. I have the car tuned to run at 180 F. I would say the issue is how hot the car runs and how hard you run it without maintenance. If you don't change your oil on time and you run your car hard go to a thicker oil.

[@BushmansAdventures]

I’ve run 0-50 in some of my harder driven vehicles. They called for 0w30 Ran fine. Less wear, better engine protection under extreme driving conditions/ temps. What the vehicle MFG recommends… is simply a baseline to meet current fuel / emissions standards, under basic driving conditions. Tailor your engine oil to YOUR driving style, conditions , severity of driving , ambient temps, etc

[@ponyxpress3]

I’ve heard 15w-40 diesel oil works on older gasser models.

[@lrich8181]

15w40 use in pre 1975 only because of converter damage on '75 up. High zinc content in diesel oil.

[@johnc.9133]

It also works on many modern boat engines too. My Malibu WakeSetter calls for 15w-40.

[@arthurdolle5257]

​@lr how is engine oil getting into the torque converter?

[@ferdinandcuevas8457]

I think that He means the catalytic converter !? Because the zinc content of the oil

[@boost331]

I run 1 grade thicker in every vehicle I have ever owned. 2 grades thicker in Subarus because they need it

[@reidthemanual]

Do your boxer engines burn oil? Is that why you run heavier oil?

[@boost331]

@@reidthemanual My brz will consume the recommended 0w20 at a rate of about 0.5qt per 1000 miles. The BRZ is also known to spin bearings and throw rods due to poor lubrication. 0w20 is some EPA garbage that is simply not good enough for a performance car that actually gets driven as intended. STI of Japan has a racing league just for the BRZ and Toyota has one for the 86 (same car). You know what oil they run in a stock street spec engine...? 0w40 I too run a 0w40 euro blend when on track. On the street I stick to a 5w30 which cuts my consumption down by 75%. The other one is my 2024 impreza RS which specs a 0w16 oil. That car does not get driven nearly as hard as the BRZ, but because it is still a flat Subaru engine with a timing chain that is about a 1\4 long, it shears down oil viscocity like crazy. IMO 0w16 is too thin to begin with and the UOA I sent out with 5k miles of use on mobil 1 0w16 came back with a 100c visc of 6.3 cSt which is almost out of spec on the low end even for that thin oil. I have since moved up to a 5w20 which is only a little thicker, but uses less viscocity modifiers in the formula so the visc cannot be broken down as low as a 0w16 or even 0w20. My results after 5k miles of valvoline advanced 5w20 come back with a visc around 7.2 cSt. A 1 point difference is enough to offer significantly better protection and be unnoticeable in terms of efficiency. The 7.2 cSt result is actually within spec for both a 16 and a 20 weight so its not even really deviating from what the engine was designed for. The step up just ensures the visc stays in the intended grade and does not fall out of spec low which can result in excessive wear or damage.

[@reidthemanual]

⁠​⁠@@boost331 All great info! The used 5w-20 oils I have tested have ranged in viscosity from 7.0 to 8.4 cSt at 100c. Valvoline Advanced was actually, like you found, on the low end. If you want to go slightly thicker yet, try another brand of 5w-20. I was seriously considering buying a Subaru a while back but refused to accept the rate at which many burned oil (from the factory). If I ever buy one, I’ll have to follow your recommendation for heavier oil. Were you saying the timing chain shears the oil because it is horizontal (laying in oil?)?

[@boost331]

@@reidthemanual The timing chain is the main cause of viscocity shear in most "normal" passenger cars. Extreme heat and temps can cause shear too as well all know, but most of our everyday street cars dont experience that. Timing chain wear and fuel dilution are major causes of reduced visc for most of us. The longer the timing chain is the worse it will shear down the oil. Your normal I4 or I6 have very short timing chains or maybe even a belt. Your V6 and V8 engines get a slightly longer timing chain because they have to make that V shape from the crank to the heads. When you take a look at a boxer engine they are very compact from top to bottom but extremely wide. The timing chain is incredibly long going from end to end beneath the front cover and shaped like a sideways H. Its simply the amount of contact the oil gets with all that length of chain, gears, guides that trashes the oil. That small step up to even the thin 5w20 as you mentioned with the Valvoline has prevented my Impreza from burning any oil so far. Granted it only has 17k miles on it. The BRZ has all the same issues, but gets driven much harder and revs all the way to 7800 rpm. Most 5w30s end up shearing down to a 20 weight by the time the oil change interval is up, but the consumption is very minimal. It would likely never need a top off if I didnt drive it like a mad man honestly. 😂

[@CitizenValve]

My 2018 Camry which uses 0w16 oil just turned 300k miles.

[@Chicagoguy1984]

I would recommend 5W20 with those miles

[@CitizenValve]

@@Chicagoguy1984 why?

[@jamess4869]

Changing my own oil for over 50 years...never had a problem going up with Vis...only when you go too low...

[@blakeuhl8731]

I put two quarts of 5w30 in a 5w20 engine, 2003 focus with the 2.0L 8 valve with 80k on the engine. I went straight to the parts store to get all 5w20. And after the thick oil and one round tripto the part store, it developed a tick in the head, it somewhat subsided after the full 5w20 fill. Lifters and buckets are the most sensitive but the biggest consideration to switch in my opinion is the diameter of the oil galleries and oilpump output diameter. If the pump can't move the thicker stuff fast enough, irreversible wear occurs.

[@DINGOKIS]

0W20 used to burn a quart every 10k 0W30 only burns half a quart every 15k

[@snakeinthegrass7443]

That thing didn't sound good with either oil. What's she got, about 250k on her?

[@dodgeking9194]

That's what I was thinking too I ran into a lot of that with small Ford engines they sound like sewing machines

[@HyoCheetiBurd]

Quick look at the video it looks like 115k? A lil older, but not too old.

[@ryandoyle4344]

Perhaps 10w30 would quiet it down.

[@snakeinthegrass7443]

@@HyoCheetiBurd That was my point. It's prob got 50k, but being a Ford...

[@snakeinthegrass7443]

@@ryandoyle4344 Or maybe some WD-40

[@williamvolkmann8658]

I like how it's got a pre-start sequence where it cranks

[@illiniwood]

This is called "clear flood mode." It works on most vehicles, but not on all. Honda has decided not to have this feature on their vehicles.

[@steverayrapp]

@@illiniwood Yeah, I found that out real quick! 😂

[@davidschaadt3460]

Never seen that before. But I'm old.

[@MS-xh7cw]

I had a Datsun 510. We’d run 20w-50 in the summer, 10w-30 Fall, and winter, and 10w-40 Spring. Got great MPG no matter what grade oil and just kept on going.

[@brentbackman2911]

I ran 20W-50 racing oil in my 1985 Ford Escort for years. The 5 speed transmission went out before the engine. Engine had 135 psi compression at the time. I also used the Mobile M series oil filters. I changed oil religiously at every 2,500 miles. When the transmission failed, the car had over 200,000 miles on it. Now I include Prolong engine oil treatment every time I change the oil.

[@jeffwoodard5937]

I have a 2000-11 Nissan Frontier 4 prox I’ve used moble-1-10w30 with one small bottle of STP oil treatment, The little truck still runs great, And I drive it on the farm and on the highways on a regular bases.

[@kwmiked]

Whats the viscosity difference @100c between 5/20-5/30 I bet it's min difference. Difference is gonna be in the additives. But u really can't go by that till u do a 2nd 5/30 sample because of the residual 5/20 u can't get out from the change. So gotta go by next sample and the 3rd for accurate results

[@ifinishedelementary]

Had to sign a waiver at the 3rd lube shop to get rid of the trash garbage ACDelco break in oil in my new 2025 suv. I demanded 5W30 Quaker all synthetic even though GMC recommends 0W20 oil. The engine is at least 30% quieter and I should have bought a sound tester, recorded the change, and started a lawsuit against the scumbags at ExxonMobil and GMC. It's the same with BMW who put heavy oil in their engines to purposefully destroy them prematurely. It's how these maggots make their money on swindling consumers. The car industry is composed of engineered obsolescence criminals. I will be changing out the garbage transmission fluid next.

[@charlesjackson1700]

You did the right thing.. Don't listen to anyone that tells you different.. That thinner oil is just for CAFE standards.. IT DEFINITELY CAUSES YOUR ENGINE TO WEAR OUT FASTER. A MASTER MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT.. HE IS THE BEST IN HIS FIELD. DIRTY WATERED DOWN OIL IS THE DEMISE OF YOUR ENGINE.

[@R90scj]

I sure hope your manual transmissions did not spec ATF which has no gear face contact protection called shock loading protection. I drained pout the ATF and installed Honda Motorcycle "Racing Transmission Oil" that's very thin, yes smoother shifting plus quit with increased gear shock loading protection as well properly lubed bearings. Another plus the synchros also functioning as normal. Some oils will not allow synchros to grip and do their braking thing instead crunching gears, more like the synchro teeth clash meshing vs proper braking action with silent shifting action.....~~=o&o>.......

[@zenden6564]

"BMW purposely put heavy oils in their engines to destroy them" WTF? The BMW B48 donk recommended oil is 0-W20.

[@ifinishedelementary]

@zenden6564 For their low end wannabe models. For the elitist M class it's: BMW M TwinPower Turbo 10W60. A lot of evil thought that is put into engineered obsolescence and vehicle fluids hold the least amount of liability and the greatest volume of swindle.

[@rickss69]

There is not or ever has been a "break-in" oil used by any auto manufacturer.

[@WeSRT4]

It's fine... especially if you live in the lower half of the US.

[@flyingbeaver57]

Yes, if you live there. Down North, not quite the same.

[@DdHenley307]

I drive alot for work and change my oil once a month and I've never in my life pre filled an oil filter. I've gotten multiple motors over 300k without mechnical issues. Does it do anything? It makes the person doing it feel better and that's priceless

[@Workerbee-zy5nx]

I read the shop manual for specs. First wt. Is light viscosity for start up, 2nd wt. Is for running.

[@wildbill6976]

W = winter, not "weight" (oil viscosity at cold temperature)

[@Workerbee-zy5nx]

@@wildbill6976 Que? No speako inglis?😕😐😳