RV Camper Floor Replacement

[@rveducation101]

That is the correct way to replace a floor and install the woven vinyl product in an RV (even though it's a pain in the butt). Nice job!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks Mark and Dawn!

[@mishon88]

Where did you get your aluminum frame squares

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm

[@djbmw1]

RV Education 101® most campers that have floor rot will also have joist rot and/or wall framing rot as well. If thats the case, the correct way to replace the floor/joists is to de-couple the trailer body/shell from the frame and raise the body from the frame. There are other videos on youtube showing this. Essentially, remove or cut the screws holding your bottom plate/framing to the flooring (you have to remove the trailer nose cap and siding to access the screws). Once all screws are removed, slide a 10' or 12' long 4x4 or 6x6 through the storage doors - from one side to the other. Support each side with a high-jack/farm-jack or use floor jacks with wood blocking to account for the height difference. Jack the camper body up by 1 or 2 inches from the frame. NOW you can PROPERLY replace the trailer floor/joists, etc. Doing it this way would have sped this job up to be less that 5 days.

[@michaelcoonan8314]

djbmw1 - any videos on doing that? I cannot find any. Thanks

[@benjaminshumaker2740]

I got myself in a pickle utility g a camper with water damage and watching your video twice gave me an idea of how I’m going to replace the floor. Thanks for making this video.

[@bobduncan3853]

I will be rewatching some this video this weekend, when I get started on my camper. Thanks for posting!

[@marvinboggs]

Me too!

[@marvinboggs]

Great job! Now will you come and fix mine?

[@chrisshipley6992]

Thanks for the video help. I'm currently ripping out the original floor of a 2006 Rockwood Roo and this video really helped me understand what I'm dealing with that I didn't know before lol😅

[@roleat]

I watched your video before I made the purchase of a worn out trailer and had to come back to rewatch. Definitely going the underlayment route. Thanks so much for the detail!

[@Tom-Fisherman]

FRP for the walls for a win! Loved watching this and that is the first time in 10 years I have ever stayed interested in any one video (from anybody)! Great job to you and your son, and your wife for helping too :)

[@crispyspa]

That is one hell of an undertaking. I admire your tenacity.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Yes, it was. Wasn't expecting it to be when I first got into it, but that's what it became.

[@larryb2905]

Great job. You built it back better than when it was built originally!

[@Ed-ip2sg]

What a battle. I have a 37 footer I have to do this to. Thanks so much.

[@mrinspector2206]

the "underlayment" is called darco and is a waste of time because it actually TRAPS moisture under the floor if it ever gets even a tiny pinhole in it, which they do easily. Kinda like when folks cover their rvs or boats etc with a cover while outside, every time you take cover off it has promoted mildew, bug and bird nests etc. Next time (if you ever do this again) spray the plywood floor with truck bedliner spray and you'll protect it forever. No need for wraps. My advice is based on rehabbing and sales of over 300 trailers. The junk manufacturers use in construction is unreal.

[@eugenekalinowski17]

Thanks for shearing . Do you spray with truck bedliner the top layer of plywood or the bottom layer? It is ok to use regular plywood 3/4 or 5/8 thick or it is better to use pressure treated plywood? What your opinion in this ? Do you spray after the plywood installation or before? Thank you for taking time to share.

[@eugenekalinowski17]

Thanks for shearing . Do you spray with truck bedliner the top layer of plywood or the bottom layer? It is ok to use regular plywood 3/4 or 5/8 thick or it is better to use pressure treated plywood? What your opinion in this ? Do you spray after the plywood installation or before? Thank you for taking time to share.

[@mrinspector2206]

@@eugenekalinowski17 use PT plywood and spray both sides before install. RV makers also space out floor joists way too far apart so I add "sister" joists to have more support also

[@acolic1867]

So you’re saying, skip the black tarp, material and spray, both sides of pressure-treated plywood with bedliner and place it right on top of the campers metal floor joints?

[@dalefacundus2705]

Great Job! I bought a camper 3 days ago and it has soft floors. I listed it and sold it today. I know now that was a job that even if I did the floor, it would have taken me forever and would have eaten all the profits. The buyer said he was handy.

[@johnlapierre4905]

Thanks you are A great guide for doing the floor over the right way

[@nelsonguevara1208]

Mr. Kessler you do great work! I feel like your video has been the best with the floor repair.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thank you!

[@mrNikko77]

This is great man, thank you for sharing your process, very cool of you to share this experience as a tutorial for others. Gives me more comfort that im able to do something for myself on a budget! Young, broke and trying to save money on living over this way lol

[@crazyl1282]

Hello Rick, we feel that your video was the best! You were detail and to the point.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thank you

[@caroljohnson8817]

Way to go!! You Rock!! I’m going to start mine this next week; Mine will probably take longer than 14 days.

[@terricannon-pirozzi4913]

My exact camper with same flooring issue. Finally found the video again!! Now to start the hard work, thank you for such an awesome video tutorial for me!!

[@pompatrol5881]

How much to fix I was scammed

[@lauriekotfer9155]

THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH! Yes I'm shouting lol. This video is exactly what I have been looking for. I need to replace some framing and a lot of flooring on my 1984 Shasta. The underbelly is pretty shot just like your aluminum (mine is galvanized but holes rusted through it). This is the first how to floor replacement that showed the whole project even Ripstop Material. I feel like I am so much more equiped to tackle this. Thank you. From Mystic CT.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks and good luck!

[@michellerenner5004]

Thank you for all the tips, we need to redo our new to us trailer. After searching many websites and videos, this the best one I've seen for details of what needs to be done. Your new floor looks amazing.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks. We're still very happy with it. It's given our 17-year-old trailer a new lease on life!

[@greeneye8968]

This will be my guide when I tackle my R-Vision 21' Bantam in April

[@g.malcolmdial1327]

Hey man I must say that all that work was worth it, the camper looks great. Great craftsmanship I am a fan. I know who to contact when I'm ready to start on my Surveyor. Great job!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks!

[@ElBrooklyn1]

Hoo boy. I gotta rotted-out bathroom floor from a shower leak. Dreading having to do all the work you did. But I sure do appreciate you showing me how it's done the right way. Thanks!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Sucks. But no other way to do it.

[@outdoorrelaxation5511]

Sometimes you can get lucky and only have to replace the immediate layer of board under your tile or vinyl. I have a 18 transcende and I figured out if you go under the area you have to replace and remove your under guard whether it be the plastic coated cardboard or what ever they used and push up on that area if it's not mushy or wet it's only the top layer hopefully you get lucky like I have.

[@dr7477]

Wow that was awesome! Thanks. This is really helpful in helping me plan out my rotted camper floor repair. All my water came from a loose fitting on the back of the hot water heater.

[@jeremyspecce]

That floor has got to be rock solid now. Congrats on persevering, that is a tough job. I am looking at a used trail-lite and I will damn sure to look very closely at the floors.

[@erikgallimore5131]

We have an R-vision (non hybrid) and it is pretty leaky too, your video helped in our floor replacement. I'm going to file it under "if I would have known this going in, I would have never started" learning experience.

[@Mcruzer4u]

Best pretty detailed video on flooring. Thank you so much.

[@tete4now]

Thank you for linking this video from our conversation at Drivin n Vibin. That woven vinyl looks intriguing...hmmm 😊

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

You're welcome and, yes, the woven vinyl is tremendous! Good luck on your project!

[@brendahbottahbus2987]

just bought a lil ol' something today, this materials list is perfect. so glad you shared this video!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks, and good luck!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I just realized I left 4 sheets of luan plywood off my materials list. (sheesh)

[@ericestrada6755]

Im working on my 1978 venture Im doing the front half of the floor first then the walls and then the bathroom area.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Good luck!

[@brooksvilletreasures7129]

Hey Rick, Thanks for the great video. I appreciate your wfforts to make it. Very informative!

[@curtisr57]

Sure am glad that I stumbled across this. No need to plan now just make it happen. Thank you!

[@jburritt426]

Wow our 5th wheel is 18 years old and the floors are perfect. We do live in the desert so maybe that is a help. Nice job on the floors Looks great.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks.

[@scottcassidy6714]

Thanks very much for sharing this video! You’ve given me the confidence to do ours. Well done and informative

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thank you and good luck

[@derekdavis7967]

Hey man great video I have a 2006 starcraft 19ck basically the same camper and I'm redoing the floor this weekend and this gave me some great ideas thanks for the video.. good work!!!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks and good luck!

[@marklittler784]

Good record of the work for future owners.

[@MattB787]

Glad I found your video, we have the exact same camper!

[@JennyAndAlex]

Nice job dude! Many good ideas here and I like that you went with the aluminum joists.

[@michaellane1316]

Much to comment on. Remember tearing the complete back half off of one of those dodge chassis with camper back in the eighties. What a project. These things are a definite can of worms. Best thing to do is if buying. Calculate the desired use in time, usage over two years, then take away devalued condition and figure whether it is worth having. One can do a tent trailer or B&Bs a lot cheaper and no headaches when confronting these problems over the long haul. I you're going to buy one, do the investigation, considered time of use and then lick your wounds when it's time to sell,

[@brianschkirkie9793]

Great work Rick, thanks for the video! . We just purchased a 2004 with a soft floor. I was surprised how bad it was once I got in there and tore it apart! I am really debating replacing the vapor barrier on the bottom. It seems to me that once water gets in, there is no chance for it to dry out, especially if you have vinyl flooring on top. So I'm considering skipping the moisture barrier on the bottom, using marine grade plywood with an exterior stain/ water repellent applied to it. In my experience marine grade plywood does not seem to warp like treated plywood does. Then following your plan from that point. I have to wonder after reading all these posts from all of these people with rotten floors, if the design was bad to begin with. Our camper will be stored inside, and the only time the bottom will ever get wet is towing in the rain. The wheel wells do most of the protection. So i figure if the wood is treated or stained why care if it gets wet. Pontoon boats don't have a moisture barrier on the bottom of the wood, and they have much more exposure to water then the bottom of a camper. And yes I do know they rot out over time as well. Just throwing my ideas out there for people to comment on. Thanks again for sharing your advice and experience!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks! Good luck with your project!

[@tonymarino1730]

Very detailed informative and interesting to watch. Great job

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

tony marino thank you

[@jonbush9567]

I am remodeling a 86 fleetwood the floor at first didn’t look that bad however upon a inspection I found the two by twos that go around the camper where the camper siding connects to the floor was all rotted out so I decided to start taking those out and just redo the whole floor but when I did that the nose of it sunk down like 6 inches do you have any helpful ideas that I can use to fix it right now I just jacked it up and put some two by fours on the outside and screwed into the studs to hold it up but it looks as if the outer edge is lower than the floor

[@VideoByPatrick]

What is "woven" ?

[@markwitkop7022]

Thank you. I pass your area several times a week. 🙂 I am from the middle of the mitten.

[@PamelaSueMarshall]

3rd floor up camper compound Jack?scotch and French

[@katherinerivett9208]

what did you do about the lower walls at the floor? it looks like the lowest part of the wall has water damage.

[@andrewlenhill]

Oh the fun I can hardly contain my joy watching this lol rvs are such a gift from God to build your tolerance to suicide

[@veneitaly1974]

Hi Rick.! Excellent job. Greetings from Barcelona- Spain.

[@bayoutrapper]

Really good job. One thing I would suggest, foil backed insulation like that is supposed to be installed with the foil (shiney side) toward the outdoors. Probably too late now, but that's how the manufacturer suggests installation. Enjoy the new floor. You earned it, lol.

[@ThomWalbranA1]

j am impressed and hopeful that I can try to repair the 2002 Thor Tahoe 22 ft Hybrid Toy hauler [hybrid means there is a foldout, flip out, popout tent bed that is the whole front of the trailer. I recently retired and survived 2 strokes. My plan [for over 18 months] was to Get an F250 SD CC FX4 Diesel, a Honda 4 x4 quad, and a nice camper and relocate from Texas to a 180 yo Ghost Town in the Inyo Mountains in CA,. I was surprised when loading the hauler that the wall and floor were separating, and the wheel well under the sink was destroyed from an old blowout the past owner forgot to inform me. i have been unwilling to just remove the cabinets, windows, floor, and the front flipping-out bed if is HEAVY, BIG, and I have no idea how to support it or anything. But if I am going to make it before the only road in/out of Cerro Gordo was washed out from the DV Flooding 3 weeks ago and once the snow starts they close the mountain til spring. I don't have the support you had, I Would love to talk with anyone who knows these foldout beds to share and maybe give me some safety tips. but i will sleep in the f250 if need be Before i am stopped again. 400 acres 9000 ft asl and 40+ abandoned silver mines 1100 feet under the private town is calling me to come help Mr Underwood rebuild the hotel, and the historic town.

[@jonathanveliquette7547]

Super helpful, thank you for the video!

[@Ionizap]

Great vid, I'm exhausted from watching it.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks

[@williamcovington7877]

Awesome job. I have a Bantam Flier F18 and the floor was partially repaired They did an awful job and I am going to replace the whole floor as it is really spongy throughout. My only concern you did not address is weight. These trailers are made to be pulled by smaller vehicles(thus the name "Bantam") and that much/type material had to add considerable weight. If done again, what would you change to lighten the job? Any tips will be appreciated! Thanks.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thanks. Although I sold the camper a couple of years ago, I can tell you that there is very little I would change. For the several years I owned and used it after the floor project, it still was performing without any issues. What would I change? I'd use tongue-and-groove flooring.

[@kylemclaughlin6227]

What size aluminum barshould are those

[@austinfield7000]

Doing almost the same thing to the Trail-Lite Bantam we bought recently. The bottom piece of plywood sits under the floor supports. Was that the same for you? Trying to figure out exactly how I’m going to separate the body and trailer frame to get the plywood between it.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I did not extend mine underneath the sidewalls. Hasn't been a problem.

[@jimjackslak4507]

I think I heard you say you put pressure treated wood on the aluminum rails? it didn't look like pressure treated wood though. I hope it wasn't, cuz pressure treated wood eats your aluminum away in a very short time. I learnt that from videos where people make floors and decks to walk on in aluminium fishing boats, and when they use pressure treated wood, it eats holes in their boats within the first year. Pretty crazy, and really good to know about, cuz who would think that would be an issue... Awesome video though, thank you for posting this.

[@fishhuntadventure]

Not everyone that does stuff knows what they’re doing… people use the three banes of a good job in a camper all the time: acq pressure treated, silicone caulking, and osb. Or they buy a new AC, tv, or awning but never replace their flaking roof membrane. But ya, PT doesn’t belong in boats, utility trailers, or campers.

[@kensimeral3725]

Great video. This will be my reference guide for when I begin my floor replacement on my Trail-Lite 21’ hybrid. I am curious as to whether there was any noticeable difference in the trailer weight before and after.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

You're right; there's no doubt that it's heavier. But I have not weighed my camper either before or after the project. I know that I probably should, and whenever I go to sell it will. I haven't bothered to weigh it, though, because my tow vehicle can pull 11,200 pounds. The factory-listed dry weight of my camper is 2,800 pounds (VERY debatable on the accuracy of this). So, even when loaded and even after this project, I'm well within my comfort zone.

[@kensimeral3725]

I would agree there is no need to worry on your part. I was just curious.

[@JAndrioli]

question: why did you bother removing layer by layer of this old floor instead of just going under the frame and cutting out big chunks with a sawzall ?

[@jodijarvis1018]

We have the same camper and our floor is soft in front of the sink. ( ours is where your fridge is) and left side in corner of U dinette. We only need to do the front half of floor. How thick was your original factory floor “ sandwich “ ? I want to replace front half then meet up to original floor then go over it all with luan and vinyl. We aren’t doing this until next spring, so we are getting our game plan figured out. Thanks for posting your video, it’s very informative.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

The factory floor was about 2 inches thick total.

[@jasonspellich2440]

So your floor is about ¼in thicker than factory correct?

[@greeneye8968]

How in the world does the front cabinet come off? I'm in the middle of doing mine, and I'm afraid I'm going to break something taking it out.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

If I remember correctly, I had to slide on my back under the cabinet and remove several screws.

[@greeneye8968]

@@Gr8LakesCamper Thanks for monitoring this video. I figured it out. I had to remove the staples under the cabinet as well as the side brackets to get it out. For sure, that cabinet was built inside. If I hadn't removed the water tank to get a little space, I would never have gotten it out in one piece. I'm in the middle of taking out the floor which is basically an 'oreo' piece of hard styrofoam about 2" thick. But first I need to fix the underside at the the front of the trailer since it's all rotted out and pulled away from the floor. I need to replace with new 2x4.

[@iBRiDGE380]

Thanks. This is great. And yer not entirely irritating to listen to. Honestly.

[@greeneye8968]

In case you're actually still monitoring this video, here's a question: are the aluminum crossbeams solid or tubing? It looks like tubing since I see some screws holding them down. If tubing, what are the wall thicknesses - 1/8"?

[@PaulWhite-jo9mc]

what would the original joist spacing be? 16" centers???

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

The factory original had only once cross beam in the center of the unit. There were no other ones.

[@lukefisk]

Very informative video. We will be undertaking a similar project, although I hope it's not quite this extensive! Definitely helps to know what we might encounter!

[@livableincome]

You guys are awesome. I am so glad I came across this. Still wondering if I can cheat and just spray the hell out of the bottom of the trailer to fill in the empty spots in underlayment last owner left. There is some kind of foam isn't there?

[@davidserwatka5198]

Great video! I have a question. On the underpayment. You said you use staples. When you got the underlayment did you actually staple the bottom underpayment side to the floor? Underlayment to the floor underneath. Was thinking of using some kind of spray. adhesive.Thanks

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I did not staple the black underlayment material to the bottom of the plywood. I wrapped the edges of the underlayment around the plywood and stapled that part to what would be the top of the plywood. I did not use any adhesive or fasten the underlayment to the bottom of the plywood in any way.

[@livableincome]

What a tedious job. Good on you both. Question. Wouldn't it have been better to keep the good tin underlayment wherever it was ok, cut tidying up cuts where it was messy and then laid the tent floor like underlayment on top of it all? Just for a little more sturdiness? Also more leak proofing? I may have to do what you did. Ye gads. What a lot of work. The last owner of my trailer laid hard wood flooring without doing underlayment. I can see fibre board, insulation and broken tin underlayment from under the trailer. A few good rains/snow and the floor is going to rot all over again.

[@mooseman3136]

Thanks for this video. I also have a hybrid R-Vision with slide out with a rotted floor. I'm not looking forward to doing this as the previous owner did a shoddy repair job where he just put plywood on top of the rotted floor. Will have to figure a way to also replace the floor under the cabinets, fridge and in the bathroom. The PO just cut the plywood around them. I'll also use aluminum square tubing instead of wood beams for extra rigidity. BTW, we might be brothers because I also own a TrailBlazer of the exact same colour!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Good luck!

[@qrevere5546]

Just bought an 03 C19... turns out this was done TWICE! Have to take up 1.5 in of plywood just to get to original floor!

[@jenniferstewart7181]

I have a similar problem I am trying to fix now but I am confused where the supports are. My foam flooring looks just like yours in front of the sink. Do you just remove the foam and add new 2x4 to the existing underlayment?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

The first time I replaced my flooring I added 2x4s. It did not work to my satisfaction. The second time I replaced the flooring, which is this video, I used aluminum square tubing instead. I only removed the original styrofoam in the front half, which is all my project needed.

[@hittinswitches65]

What size square tubes did u use for cross beams and what holds them in place from moving thanks

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

1-inch square aluminum stock, 8 feet long cut to length, from onlinemetals.com. Self-tapping metal screws through the aluminum, plywood and into the chassis.

[@hittinswitches65]

@@Gr8LakesCamper cool thanks man I got camper like yours my floor is bad wanna replace it

[@rainerfischer6494]

I'm bookmarking this page and adding it to my resource material when I tackle the floor of my 2001 R-Vision Bantam Trail Lite B21 in the spring. I was going to sell it but good used trailers (ours is great other then floor) are like gold nowadays. Your video is great help. What actual model is your trailer?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

New-to-us 2000 Trail Lite Bantam Hybrid C-21B we bought in 2007.

[@rsica1144]

How did you get the crossbars under the sink/cabinets? Was there a 2x4 there originally that you pulled out and then slid the new crossbar in its place??

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

R Sica I carved out channels into the styrofoam insulation long enough that the cross beams reached across the chassis rail.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

R Sica Primarily from inside as the bottom layer of luan plywood was still intact. I used long drill bits, then chiseled the rest.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I need to give you a better response. I removed enough of the old flooring under the refrigerator so that I could install the 3/4-inch treated plywood underneath it. That allowed me to remove enough of the styrofoam so the plywood could extend across the chassis rail. I also had "carved" out the channels into the styrofoam for the aluminum cross beams when I had it all exposed.

[@cclippert]

How did you seal the ripstip under the trailer to the existing ripstop?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

cclippert flexseal tape

[@terridrimel1056]

Excellent video and kudos!

[@dieseldreams2853]

Great video i really needed this with my camper

[@bbazinet11]

Rick thank you for this video. I actually just purchased the same brand of camper and have moisture damage in the same area towards the front. You said you chased the leak since day one, can you share what you finally discovered was the issue so I can fix it before repairing the floor? Also, just to verify, belly liner, 3/4" plywood, 1.5" aluminum rails edge to edge screwed to 3/4' plywood, 1.5" foam then 3/8" plywood on top? Does this line up flush with existing floor as I don't plan on re-flooring the entire trailer (most parts are good).

[@jodijarvis1018]

How did you attach the walls to the floor?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I did not attach them. I didn't feel I needed to because I only replaced the front 40% of the floor. The walls and floor are still attached to each other along the front, rear and most of the sides. In hindsight, I probably should have attached the new floor somehow, but I have not had any problems since this project, so maybe (hopefully) it'll be all right.

[@jodijarvis1018]

Rick Kessler since you’ve torn the floor out, and seen the structure, what is at the bottom of the walls? Is there a wood or metal beam running along ? I’m thinking of running a treated 2”x2” along the wall and attaching to the bottom of the wall then Krieg jigging flat 2”x6” into it and also screwing the 2x6 to the main frame. I want a sturdy floor. Also , is there steel framework perpendicular to the main frame every few feet along the length of the floor. I’m trying to plan out my attack before I tear out. I have the same camper with only slightly different floor plan. I want my walls secure because we drag this camper 400+ miles one way.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

@@jodijarvis1018 Running along the bottom perimeter of the four walls (front, rear and sides) is an aluminum tube, I believe it's 1.5-inch square. There was one piece of aluminum tube (again 1.5-inch square) that spans the chassis rails in the center of the RV. There is no other aluminum or steel support either in the floor, or under the floor, other than that. The original floor from the factory was two pieces of 1/4-inch lauan plywood sandwiching with 1.5-inch rigid foam insulation in between. The exterior walls were on top of this. I don't recall how the exterior walls were attached to the floor other than adhesive.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I should say that the perimeter walls only rested on the bottom piece of lauan plywood. The rigid insulation and the top layer of lauan plywood were not as wide and "inside" the camper walls.

[@jodijarvis1018]

Rick Kessler wow, no wonder they fall apart. Guess I got some planning to do. Thanks for the info. You may hear from me again once it gets nice out. Wish me luck.

[@johnwoodgiveitallyougot]

I’m curious how many total labor hours it took over 14 days. I’m about to take on my trailer floor.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

My best estimate is 40-50 hours. Some days it was only an hour or two. Other times it was a full eight hours. All depended on the task and the time I had available that day.

[@rett42]

Maybe I missed it, but how did you attach the new aluminium cross members?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Self-tapping screws into the chassis frame

[@dannymeyers2517]

I keep trying to figure something out and I decided to finally ask. Your lower layer of plywood was screwed to the chassis, but was it attached to the walls anywhere? Same question about the aluminum. We're they attached to the walls or the lower plywood or just floating? Your final width from my math is 2-3/4" plus your luan. Did you add 3/4" to.the rest of the trailer?

[@sinout044]

I have to do the same thing may I have your email if I am in need of some clarification

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

ask anything you'd like

[@sinout044]

@@Gr8LakesCamper ok what model is that camper I have a B-19 I noticed that you did not have to remove the refrigerator did you have to remove the sink or oven or is it attached to the wall ? When you left the 3 inch over hang of the old material on the bottom did you attach it to the new material under the 3/4 in plywood ?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

@@sinout044 Our model is a 2000 Trail Lite Bantam Hybrid C-21B. We did not remove the refrigerator, stovetop (above the frig) or the sink (next to the stovetop).. Our model does not have an oven. We did attach the 3-inch flange of the old metal material to the new material (rip-stop nylon underlayment weather barrier) with Flexseal tape. Everything seems to have worked just fine because it's been 4 years without any issues.

[@sinout044]

Hey Rick another question what did you use to Secure the new black underlaymet to your new plywood

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

@@sinout044 It was such a tight fit that I only wrapped it up and over the plywood and stapled it in place. Underneath I used Flexseal tape to secure the “flange” left over from the original weather barrier to the new black plastic one.

[@KyleValenta-xl2mq]

This was an amazing repair and very informative. I have a couple questions. How did you run supports and new floor under the kitchen cabinets? Did you have to temporarily support the cabinets during this? Also, is there still a strip of the original floor panel under the exterior wall? Did you have to do anything to brace or support that section as the original portion under the wall would not go back to the main trailer beam. Any feedback would be appreciated!

[@williamcovington7877]

Have you started your project? I'm about to tackle one on a 2007 Bantam Flier F18. I'm going to remove everything. I believe that is a better approach and less of a fire hazard when modifying the wall sag with welded supports. Its a lot of work and much cheaper that purchasing a new trailer!

[@julius-courtneytemple3151]

btw great vid. question is, do you have photos or vid of the actual crossing before you installed the plywood. want to see how its laid out. thanks or how showing each layer?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Sorry, but I don't have anything other than what's in the video.

[@fozrunner]

Thanks a lot for the video. I'm about to tackle this. I've got lot's of water damage in my starcraft, also called Starcrap by Aussies. The water has come in from the front after a seam was opened up and it sat for two winters. I've ripped out a fair bit of the rotting sandwich, back to almost the door. I'll tackle more tmw. Looking at different videos I see most people use 2x4 or other wooden joists. I like the idea of the aluminum sq channel. I've found some 1" locally and I also found some more expensive 1.5". I'm wondering if I use 1.5" I could get away with less than 3/4 " ply on the bottom. Why did you use such thick ply on the bottom? 3/4" seems pretty heavy. Also it looks like your floor adds up to 2.5" thick? Seems like a lot more than the original? I might also hire on a welder to weld them to the outer aluminum frame of the original floor. Any advice appreciated, especially from someone who's been through this before.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I used 3/4 on the bottom because I didn't want any regrets after I finished. I would think that if you use 1.5-inch aluminum stock (maybe space it 12 inches apart?) you should be more than fine. Welding it to the perimeter is a great idea, too. Good luck!

[@chrisbrown2665]

Rick, Awesome video. Curious if you do any videos on how to fill and use the hot water tank and sanitized water tank on your Bantam? We are totally new to camping and after reading and watching videos, I'm not 100% on the Bantam hot water tank and fresh water tank. Thanks. Great video.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Thank Chris. I have not done a video on that topic. Mark Polk of RV Education 101 and the RV Geeks both have very good videos on how to sanitize your water system. Need to know how big your fresh water tank is (mine's 30 gallons).

[@jhobbz45]

Do you have a video of your rock guard installation?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I'm sorry but I do not. I did it years ago prior to recording projects on video. A friend of mine is a metal designer; his advice is to call around to local metal fabricating shops and explain what you're trying to do. They can most likely help you.

[@jhobbz45]

Thanks! And how did you support the walls on the camper while you replaced the floor?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Didn't really need to as the walls sat on an aluminum-framed perimeter, but I did put blocks under it. Two on each side near the front and rear.

[@jhobbz45]

Thanks again! I have Trail Lite Bantam 17b I bought last Fall. Just took it on a long haul and the walls are sinking down because the floor cannot support it. I need to replace my floor next summer. I am so glad you posted this. This helps out so much.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Congrats on the Trail Lite! Check out the Facebook Page "Bantam Trail Lite Camper Owners UNITE!" It sounds like you'll want to vary your project from mine to account for those sagging walls. One suggestion is to use jacks to lift each wall into place, and block underneath it to keep it there. Once that's done you'll need to determine how best to attach your new floor to the walls. Each wall, along the bottom, rests on a piece of aluminum square stock. The original floor had a bottom layer of 1/4-inch luan plywood that extended underneath this aluminum square stock. You'll need to somehow attach your new floor into this aluminum square stock. Another option is to have a metal shop fabricate steel supports that can be welded onto your chassis rails. The supports would need to be long enough to extend under the walls. Just my two cents.

[@dsjjb1]

Really appreciated your video. Because of it I am replacing my RV floor right now. I have a Trail Lite B17. I also had someone make me metal rock guard for the front. Just wondering if you chalked behind the metal and what kind of chalking you used?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

I did not chalk behind the metal.

[@dsjjb1]

Another question on the metal rock guard. When you bolted the top part did the carriage bolts go through just the fiberglass or did you reinforce it by putting some wood behind it to make it stronger. Appreciate the tips.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

@@dsjjb1 I placed strips of plywood on the inside of the camper that I bolted through. At 6:08 you can see where I pojnt to it.

[@afranco9]

What model rig is that? I just bought a Trail-Cruiser too.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

2000 Trail Lite Bantam

[@scottriffle5862]

Rick, what was the name of that barrier underlayment you used under your plywood?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Sorry, but I never did get the name of it.

[@StampinJo]

He wrote this on his blog if that's what you'Re asking: 8x15-foot piece of ripstop silnylon, cut to fit, used as the weather barrier for the underside of the camper.

[@carldraus]

I think it is this material: www.recpro.com/105-wide-rv-underbelly-material-coated-black/

[@RememberVietnam]

Does anything go under the first layer of plywood?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Go to the 12:56 mark of the video. That's where I talk about what I put under the bottom layer of plywood to use as a weather/water barrier.

[@RememberVietnam]

@@Gr8LakesCamper thanks!

[@DougKoper]

Thanks for the video. I have the same trailer manufacture, the 23ft with the same forward section of the flooring needing replacement. God Help Me

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

You got this!

[@fredbear205]

Couldn't you have just added a layer of new wood on top and screwed it to the frame?

[@bytsky2506]

Redoing my roof right now because of the woodrot. The way they design cabinets is beyond annoying when trying to do floors or roofs. Have to basically gut a camper to fix it. I got annoyed and took a reciprocating saw to the roof screws. Just cut it right off the cabinets and filed the cut ends of the screws down to wood.

[@blainebowe73]

Thanks! Appreciate the video

[@firstchristian4615]

Rick, I have a 99 Trail Lite similar to yours and live up in TC. Did you have water damage in the door and the sidewalls? Did you figure out where your water was coming from that caused damage? (Besides the tire blow out damage)

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

My water damage was only on the floor, not the sidewalls. On the floor, nearly all of the water damage was in the front corner on the door side. The leak was the corner right in that area, where the sidewall meets the front cap.

[@imheck]

Did any of the welding sparks damage the membrane? Great job, this was a huge help!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Not at all. You couldn't see it in the video, but we used a flame retardant blanket as a shield.

[@ericestrada6755]

Thumbs up that was a great job.

[@naterichardson2867]

what did u use for metal beams?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

1-inch square aluminum stock, 8 feet long cut to length, from onlinemetals.com.

[@JamieTransNyc]

watching him rip up that plywood without wearing gloves reminded me of every splinter I ever got in my life

[@jasonspellich2440]

How's it it holding up? I've got a 1999 model. Had a blow out in the same spot too. GO BLUE!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Holding up very well. No issues at all. GO GREEN!

[@jasonspellich2440]

@@Gr8LakesCamper have you had any delamination issues? I was able to save the nose of mine with 6in eternabond.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

@@jasonspellich2440 There was delam when we bough it used in 2007 (front bed panel and door-side sidewall toward the front), but we used Eternabond where the leak was and it has not gotten any worse over the years. (knock on wood)

[@jasonspellich2440]

@@Gr8LakesCamper most of mine is on the other side by the bathroom. Thankful I caught the front before it was an issue. Definitely one of design flaws.

[@curtisshepard5146]

How did you get lucky and find a young man to help? If that's your son, kudos for your parenting!

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

Actually, both of my sons helped a little bit on this project.

[@marcinenabb3348]

Hey Rick, Thanks for this video. I have the exact same issue right now with an almost identical trailer. I didn't see or hear how you attached those cross members. I want to do the same thing and I am in the middle of the mess right now. Funny I fell thru the floor (tin or aluminum) once and the dog fell thru 3 times, lol. How is the underlayment holding up? I'd love to switch over.

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

The cross members were drilled through the plywood and into the chassis frame. The underlayment is holding up extremely well. The whole floor project has been performing wonderfully. Couldnlt be happier.

[@qrevere5546]

@@Gr8LakesCamper ive seen folks say no aluminum next to pressure treated plywood... what am I missing?

[@Gr8LakesCamper]

@@qrevere5546 After reading your question and doing a little bit of research, it turns out I likely made a mistake in not using untreated plywood.

[@qrevere5546]

@@Gr8LakesCamper it still looks good and gave me confidence to do mine. Tow capacity is only 5080 so deciding between luan, foam, 3/8 ply, luan and 3/8-1/2 ply, foam, 3/8 ply, luan... in other words somewhere between what you did and what the factory did... anything i do should be lighter though as idiots before me covered floor w/ 3/4" and vinyl TWICE!

[@qrevere5546]

I went with 3/4 in tongue and groove on top of new 1/16" aluminum, which somehow, even at that thickness, still seems twice as strong as what they used.

[@dunesuns]

Good job! Well done